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Showing the PID adjustment helped a lot. I couldn't get it to work from another tutorial, because it show the M303 "E" parameter was optional and wasn't included. I just assumed my X-Plus didn't support the command but thought I'd try to find another one just in case. I had already ran across your video looking for something else, and thought I'd check it just in case it showed how to to do it on the X-MAX. It worked! Thanks so much!!!!!!!

Okay, but what if you don’t have a thing to put it on? Just got my first printer and only have the sample filament it came with.

We have the Max-II and rarely find info on it, I think it is the same as the Max but just wanted to make sure. I read somewhere else to use 18mm all the way around but I see here you wrote that the back should be 18mm and the two front 16mm...is this the same for the MAX-II? I am pretty confused on how to level it after. I know you mentioned you have a video but I cannot locate the link, please share. My son's machine is trembling a little and it seems the nozzle is causing it but not all the time.

I did everything here. By the time I was left with what you had at the end, the filament would not come out. I think the hot end may have overheated and fused or something.

OMFG do not do this, it is SO unnecessary. You do not need to take the extruder this far apart. I really struggled getting it back together just because I'm not super mechanically minded, and it was hard to follow his steps with just music and him not talking me through it. You really only need to get the extruder off the printer, and take it apart down to the nozzle head, unscrew, and pull the head and tubing off. It's just so much easier than this.

love your channel have a problem with octoprint the print job starts about 30mm from the nozzel the usb hook up works great

Hi Mike, Thanks for the instructions. I did not understand one thing, on my USB cable the green color corresponds to TDX and the white to RDX. Should I insert my green TDX cable on the TDX pin of the printer and the white RDX cable on the RDX pin of the printer, or should I insert them reversed ? Thank you and sorry in my English Roberto from Italy

Sorry man sieht nicht was du machst dann noch Zeitraffer nicht so gut. Du siehst ja bloß was Du machst

Great video, cuts to the chase, no asinine chatter. Excellent! Thanks!!

what ever happened, your videos stopped...

whatever happened - you stopped making videos

Thank You Guys' I just unboxed my I-Fast,...set up to just before setting up nozzle/bed gap... :) perfect time to watch thank you so very much"

Hi Mike, Thanks for the instructions. I was able to connect my QIDI MAX 2 to my raspberry PI 3. I did contact QIDI and was sent instructions on how to connect the raspberry to my MAX 2. They did recommend a different USB to TTL device. I bought the one you recommended in your video. It works perfectly, nothing to download or install. Opened Octoprint and was able to monitor and change temperatures, sent everything to "HOME". Great INstructions, Thanks again

Dang and that same filament gets sold as premium filament in Costa Rica. I bought 3 rolls by mistake and had 3 catastrophic clogs just going through one white pla+ roll. To be honest I've made insane amounts of tweaks to my settings to get it going without clogging up. I think I might have reached the sweet spot where I stop getting clogs. These are my settings if anyone is interested: 3 cubic mm/s max speed 205 nozzle temp 60 surface temp 0.2mm z hop 3 retraction (cut the bowden tube a little to reduce the offset caused by the tube length) 0.2mm layers (anything smaller will clog) 0.4mm nozzle (got a 0.5 just in case, but haven't tested) Already ordered a bunch of upgrades for my Ender 3v2 Neo thinking that they would resolve the clogs, but seems like it's the filament and not the machine. It might be an "old" video, but it definitively shed some light over here. Thanks so much for your contribution!

Mine keeps clogging and Ive tried everything. Qidi seems to think it a bad extrude and plastic parts so theyre sending a whole new one....thoughts?

You spoke very a lot so we got realy long video

How do you enable TRP on these printers? Do they have thermal runaway protection?

Drop the comedy. Its pathetic, annoying , and really no one looking for info wants or needs it. Pathetic channel

Hi Mike, I made the mod on a X-max and it works really well! Thank you. The only part I cannot get right is the hotend (Dragon) PID tuning. No matter how many times I've run the M303 E0 S230 C5, get the PID and 'printed' it, the temperature keeps fluctuating by about 10 degrees. Any suggestion? Also, when sending with Octoprint the command M503 it just returns a N:(some number) response : Send: N282 M503*45 Recv: ok N:282 Do you know why? Again thank you for this great mod!

hey I'm still pretty new to this stuff. I am having constant issues with the QUDI print slicer locking up and just taking enormous amount of time to put a couple of things on the build plate. When you went through this yours seem to work pretty well, it reacted immediately. Mine takes five minutes between mouse clicks. I've pretty much had it with this slicer. I've got a QIDI I-fast, Can i get a step by step process to go to Cura? I don't have the g-code for start and finish. Where did you get those. If you could even do a video on the switch that would be awesome. Thanks

I currently use the Qidi slicer and submit jobs over wifi. And I track the print status via the internal camera with an iPhone. The i-fast, with a level bed and proper settings is a real workhorse 3D printer. And the Qidi support is superb. I think the focus on the internal camera getting blurry at high temps, and no easy way to stop the printer remotely if a spaghetti print started, would be my reason for going with octoprint.

Does the octoprint watch the print process and stop it if the printing turns into spaghetti on the i-fast? If so, did you mount the camera inside the chamber or outside? I think that is the largest benefit octoprint provides.

My i-fast came with the large sized leveling knobs, similar to what the printable design in the video looks like. I found that one locking nut under the plate slipped inside a spring. Boy, that really messed up consistency for that spring. I’ve used large washers to prevent that behavior, but am going to check out the silicone spacer idea. Temperature resistance will be important, since I’m running 105C for initial layers with ABS. I plan on printing CF filament soon too. I think the length of the screws should be 20-22mm so the locking nuts don’t fall off when loosened. That’s happened quite a number of times to me. However, if I level the i-fast plate at the required print temperature, it doesn’t change like what you have described for the X-Max in the video.

Wanted to ask if you ever tried the Qidi software with the i-fast over Ethernet? Side note: I have finally gotten Hatchbox ABS filament to print in the i-fast without warping. I have the dual high temp extruders. Initial layers start in a pre-equilibrated chamber at 80C and plate at 105C, no print cooling, chamber circulation only, and extruder fans at 10%. After initial layers are finished the plate goes to 100C. A 27 hour print came out perfect with no warping! Woohoo! 🎉 Hatchbox ABS required 234C for extrusion to be optimal, but don’t iron and do have at least 4 top layers. I’m running at 25mm/s print speed, 50mm/s travel speed, retraction 2.0mm@30mm/s, coasting enabled. Extruder temp could be lower (down to 230C), but I don’t have any stringing or bed adhesion problems, and the test prints came out really nice.

what did you use for that custom filament holder? I'm very interested for mine. lost my rod so i basically used a broken broom handle

This filament has a sort of triangle element to it, which causes the inconsistency. I have not heard great things about this filament.

I have been using this printer now for a good bit. Can you give us an update how has it been qith the pi attached using octo print?

Does this work for ifast? I am having a hell of a time leveling my ifast! It’s awful, seems like the printer is useless now. Ugh

How do we know how much friction we are supposed to feel I’m so confused. I can’t figure out what the cycle option does in the options while printing?

Anyone have any advice on how to get the Qidi Max 2 to show up in Cura?

being PLA+, I wonder how this would hold up doing 2A stuff?

That looks like heat creep to me.

buy some lets see how that turns out bet u end up pissed off i have 100 rolls of trash first 2 rolls of white done nothing but clog my printers over and over they say they dont do returns on special sales.. thats why they only offer sales pricing so they can screw u out of ur money beware i tried using with the mosaic palette pro 3 cant get a consistent splice byt i tried 2 seprate rolls of white nothing but clogs i clean the nozzle extruder and print a 2 hr print then my next print everytime has been a clog and yes they blame u ive been printing for almost 5 yrs using random filaments no issues near like what im dealing with this stuff i cant even call it filament at this point im sry feeling ripped off at this point wish i would hav bought a couple rolls first but they probably would have sent there best product and relabeled it to get u to buy more not a trust worth company after the email i just got from them.. i thought it was my mosiac having issues got different stuff printing flawlessly matter hacks told me theyve actually had other people tell them the same thing

What happened to you guys?

I had a lot of trouble with the florescent colors in PLA from them. I actually found some foreign material impregnated into it that caused jams on mine. I turned up to 220 on a all metal hot end and finally eliminated the jams but then had to crank cooling to use it all up. Their PETG on the other hand has been pretty awesome it likes an incredibly slow initial layer but prints incredibly well after that

Thanks mate. Helped as a great reference when reassembling.

Where’d you get the screw thing to unscrew the thing?

Everything I have ever bought from 3dmax has been amazing. It could have been a fluke but are you sure you didn't put it to close to anything hot because it looks like it got heated up.

Hello, thank you for the video. Do I understand correctly that I need 2 different heights? What is the reason?

Thanks Me an my son have a QIDI Plus 2 We r stuck Would love your help to jump start ur 3D printing experience Software is ur issue at this point Cura

sorry i re-read this not computer,3d printer. doing 6 things at once. anyway i dont expect you to get right on this k. thanks again

oh yeah the leveling thingy is perfect

hi there again. i do realize now that this computer is an old news for you. but i really don't know where else to turn. i can't get one print out of it yet and i have plenty of different printers that do just fine. i can't get the blasted usb to load its fried and i can't seem to get a hold of them whats up with that. the settings are way different than any of my other printers. What the heck am i doing wrong. Please help. Ive tipped you once, i'll buy you a truck of coffee if you can help. To at least get a download of the software ;) Thanks, Amy

Don't need this "mode " to fix the problem with leveling becouse its not about the springs , but the leveling sensor's on the bottom have some shity and tinny metal part which is banding every time under a slighty diffrent force of bed (and this is actually couse of diffrent bed level ). Just simply remove them and you gonna be fine with leveling for wild ;)

OK, I'm an idiot. I got all my supplies today. Can you tell me exactly where the lock nuts go. Not sure if they go right under the build plate which doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Or under the new adjusters thanks gang

I know this was a while ago but thank you. The leveling on this thing is driving me nuts.

never see any body take it that far a\part for a tip and tube

Dude your videos are so helpful thank you! Bed leveling on my x-plus is a pain. I’ve just been tightening all the nuts until the bed hits the nozzle then running a 0.27 Z offset. I’ll definitely have to try this. Do you have a video for setting up a camera. I’ve been using a baby monitor that is controllable but am thinking about switching to raspberry with octoprint.

Damn that was painful!!

How do you get the slider bar to show up in layers view? I click layers but have no slider bar. I also don’t see my support even though I have supports turned on.