Showing the PID adjustment helped a lot. I couldn't get it to work from another tutorial, because it show the M303 "E" parameter was optional and wasn't included. I just assumed my X-Plus didn't support the command but thought I'd try to find another one just in case. I had already ran across your video looking for something else, and thought I'd check it just in case it showed how to to do it on the X-MAX. It worked! Thanks so much!!!!!!!
To avoid the crash of the part fan into the y-stepper while moving to home position please add a 2mm thick plate to the y-carriage on the right side. This will trigger the end stop a tiny bit early and helps. PID tuning can be done also via SD card only - no need to copy paste the results - just take over into running config (U end the end of the command) and save it permenantely with one printed .gcode file.
That was something I was going to try, but I have to say. I’m starting to wonder if that issues was due to something else because I it is hitting the end-stop with zero issues anymore. I mean it could have been something not tightened the proper way. Either way, that is a great tip for our community, thank you! Cheers!
Yeah I can do a video explaining that. Give me a week or so, I’ve got a couple of videos that are already on the schedule. Thank you for the video idea.
Hi Mike, I made the mod on a X-max and it works really well! Thank you. The only part I cannot get right is the hotend (Dragon) PID tuning. No matter how many times I've run the M303 E0 S230 C5, get the PID and 'printed' it, the temperature keeps fluctuating by about 10 degrees. Any suggestion? Also, when sending with Octoprint the command M503 it just returns a N:(some number) response : Send: N282 M503*45 Recv: ok N:282 Do you know why? Again thank you for this great mod!
When it comes to the PID tuning, I would run it 3 times and take the average of the responses. This will get you close, but at the end of the day each filament requires different temp and you can adjust from there. As for the 503 command, I am not sure off the top of my head what’s going on. Let me do some research and see if I can figure it out.
Some big name 3D Printing part among company tried to claim copyright infringement on it so TH-cam took it down temporarily. It should be back up in a couple of days. Sorry for the inconvenience.
I like how the 1st video has 3 times as many views as the last one, which has obvious implications of all those quitters out there. Any idea if this ChadMod carriage will work with a mosquito or dragon hot end? Thanks. You guys are awesome.
I like to hope that the other 2/3rds are waiting for their parts to arrive before continuing on to the last 2 videos. As for the Chad Mod, it is designed for the V6 and Dragon Hotend. I personally haven’t installed a Dragon, but I know many others went the Dragon route.
@@Eitri3D I ended up buying a mosquito hot end. When doing this one, you'll need to slim down the top carriage by 2mm, and the fan by 2mm for clearance.
That’s some great information to pass along. I appreciate your feedback for the community. Do you have a Thingiverse set up or a place where people can get your design? Just in case they don’t feel comfortable modding the original carriage.
Hi Mike & family, had an odd question for you guys. After printing about 2/3 roll of ABS filament on various projects, my X-Plus' hi temp extruder has stopped heating above 190*C, give or take 10*. Contacted customer support who advised me to increase the distance between heat sink & aluminum block, which gave slightly different temps but still under 200*. Since that didn't help, they were going to replace the extruder but, since I purchased it new from a seller on eBay (not Amazon or directly from Qidi), they won't honor my warranty. I replaced the heat pipe, no change. All connections are secure and I see no damage to the board or any other components. Any suggestions before I have to purchase an entire new hi temp extruder? I've printed 10x more with the regular extruder with no such issues and I'm stumped. Thanks as always for your input!
What a super nice conversion kit! I have followed it all the way you did it and my brand new Qidi X-Max is now completely ready for printing industrial parts with Nylon-Carbon Fiber at high temperatures. I still have a question about the optional 30 mm fan that must be connected to the connector of the leveling input. With me it is connected to pin 2 (-) and pin 3 (+) just like in your video, but it doesn't work. Does something else need to be switched on somewhere else !?
The quick answer is no. When plugged into the 3-pin it will be in a constant on state. I would plug it into the #1 position to ensure there isn’t an issue with the fan itself. Your other option is to splice those two fans together and plug into slot #1. If you do that, then both fans will kick on at 50°C.
@@Eitri3D Thanks for your quick response. Indeed, the problem was the fan itself. It's broken. It is the new fan of the ordered Trianglelab Highall-Metaal V6 Hotend. Maybe a cable break or something. I connected another one to the connector and it does indeed run continuously as long as the printer is on. Thanks again for your beautiful full metal extruder solution for the X-MAX !! :-)
Thank you for the kind words. I cannot take credit for the all-metal upgrade design. I just took their words and put it into a video. I’m glad you were able to find the problem and get it fixed. Happy printing. Cheers!
I finally did this but don’t have it working yet. My extruder is going the wrong direction; how can I fix this? Also, how can I calibrate the new extruder? Every time I try M501 in Octoprint, I get “ok N886”. Thanks.
Part 3 of the Chad Mod videos for into details on how to fix the direction issues and how to PID Tune. Do the PID and direction fix using the thumb drive. Use Octoprint to get you PID information for the correction.
This is something I’ve been working on figuring out. I think I have a possible solution. I will be testing and recording if it works. Thank you for your comment.
@@Eitri3D Hi, I'll explain everything now, I fixed everything correctly, after which it turned out that the thermocouple from Trianglelab, which was included in the kit, does not fit, the board does not perceive it, I tried others, they also do not work, I put a regular one, but the temperature is very much not stable at 20 degrees, I tried the Pid does not help me.
That thermocouple in the description fits the Genuine E3D Heater Block that is in the description. The one in the kit isn’t the upgraded version. It was cheaper to buy the kit and toss that thermocouple than to buy everything different.
@@Eitri3D If it doesn't bother you, you can record a detailed video on the temperature settings, I would be grateful,? Or is there some kind of setup instruction? And how do I make the board work with a thermocouple from Trianglelab?
There are three videos in this playlist. Video 2 shows the assembly. Unfortunately video 2 has been removed because a company tried to claim copyright infringement. As soon as the dispute ends, it will be put back up and that will help.
Hola! agradezco tu actualización hasta el momento tengo todos los pasos bien, pero tengo problemas con el motor a paso, este se atasca cuando hago pruebas en el modo manual, revise la transmisión y aun así no veo a que se debe, si tienes alguna soluciona esto o un paso que me salte en la actualización?¿, muchas gracias!
@@Eitri3D tough to print. Slow is the key to stop the printer from shaking. Wish i could change the width on the filament nubs. I have a few rolls that dont fit.
I just moved my printer to a sturdier location in hopes of get a better base to attempt to decrease the shakiness. Was you able to get it all together in the end?
Ive build this and it runs beast mode compaired to that clicking joke of an extruder but no matter what I cant get the quality that I did. I updated the firmware and am constantly making adjustments so see if I can get the quality and only got a little closer. Also I cant run PLA with out is slowly plugging up just like on a normal all-metal hotend so I made one to run like the the low temp one and only really had to bore out the hotend and heat block a little to fit the bigger heat break that fit the tube and have had nothing but good on it so far. Saves me having to go back to factory firmware and reinstalling all the hardware again. So is there anything I'm missing?
So a few questions for you, did you add the third fan, what are your retraction settings, and did you run the PID tune to help dial it in? I ask because I have dialed in my settings and honestly have had zero PLA clogs (except for out of tolerance filament size) with the added/improved cooling. I run 208° with bed at 60° and 100% cooling with 1mm retraction at 30mm/sec and I’ll switch between FilamentOne, Hatchbox, eSun, and Filablend Filaments
@@Eitri3D Hey I'm Just seeing this, I figured out it was my fault with how I was putting the tubes in there And I worked most the bugs out. I use a .8mm tip with a Volcano heat block and I don't run it slow. I'm shocked with what this mod did. Easy 8X or more the factory recommended print volume. Now I sturggle with firmware. Is that reverse code I added firmware or not?? Octoprint says I have broken firmware and hardly anything works between the 2
I just got everything completed and installed but when I go to the home position it hits and continues to drive. Is there something I need to adjust? I seen the comment below about adding a 2mm plate or something, is this necessary?
I ground/sanded the back edge of the fan down a small amount. Once I did that I’ve not had any issues. I did not install that 2mm plate. Some people needed it, and I thought I was going to also. The other big thing I would check is that your X axis arms are square within the frame. To adjust, just grab the arms and push one side and pull the other side.
I was just having the same issue. The thermocouple is probably lose, I recrimped mine and tightened down the pins and it solved that problem. Otherwise, it could be that you're using an incomparable thermistor.
Glad to hear you were able to diagnose the issue and fix it. The few 1077 issues I’ve dealt with were ribbon cable issues so thank you for explaining what you were able to do. I’m almost certain your comment will help others. Thank you.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 80 | คู่เอก "รักษ์ vs ยอดนำชัย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ckLMRorsMeY/mqdefault.jpg)
Showing the PID adjustment helped a lot. I couldn't get it to work from another tutorial, because it show the M303 "E" parameter was optional and wasn't included. I just assumed my X-Plus didn't support the command but thought I'd try to find another one just in case. I had already ran across your video looking for something else, and thought I'd check it just in case it showed how to to do it on the X-MAX. It worked! Thanks so much!!!!!!!
You’re very welcome. I’m glad our videos are helpful!
To avoid the crash of the part fan into the y-stepper while moving to home position please add a 2mm thick plate to the y-carriage on the right side. This will trigger the end stop a tiny bit early and helps. PID tuning can be done also via SD card only - no need to copy paste the results - just take over into running config (U end the end of the command) and save it permenantely with one printed .gcode file.
That was something I was going to try, but I have to say. I’m starting to wonder if that issues was due to something else because I it is hitting the end-stop with zero issues anymore. I mean it could have been something not tightened the proper way. Either way, that is a great tip for our community, thank you! Cheers!
Great job and nice work team. Congrats from Portugal. I'm waiting for next videos 👏👏👏🇵🇹
Thank you very much. We appreciate you watching us.
Could you make a video on how to calibrate the e-steps on the x-max if you don't have Octo print?
Yeah I can do a video explaining that. Give me a week or so, I’ve got a couple of videos that are already on the schedule. Thank you for the video idea.
Hi Mike, I made the mod on a X-max and it works really well! Thank you.
The only part I cannot get right is the hotend (Dragon) PID tuning. No matter how many times I've run the M303 E0 S230 C5, get the PID and 'printed' it, the temperature keeps fluctuating by about 10 degrees. Any suggestion?
Also, when sending with Octoprint the command M503 it just returns a N:(some number) response :
Send: N282 M503*45
Recv: ok N:282
Do you know why?
Again thank you for this great mod!
When it comes to the PID tuning, I would run it 3 times and take the average of the responses. This will get you close, but at the end of the day each filament requires different temp and you can adjust from there. As for the 503 command, I am not sure off the top of my head what’s going on. Let me do some research and see if I can figure it out.
@@Eitri3D I've contacted QIDI. They sent me the new X-Max firmware and now the PID is working well - no more temp fluctuations! Thank you again. :)
Thank you so much for sharing...I don't know I could not locate Part 2 for wiring...Is it removed or skipped?
Some big name 3D Printing part among company tried to claim copyright infringement on it so TH-cam took it down temporarily. It should be back up in a couple of days. Sorry for the inconvenience.
The second video had the copyright claim removed and is available again.
I like how the 1st video has 3 times as many views as the last one, which has obvious implications of all those quitters out there. Any idea if this ChadMod carriage will work with a mosquito or dragon hot end? Thanks. You guys are awesome.
I like to hope that the other 2/3rds are waiting for their parts to arrive before continuing on to the last 2 videos. As for the Chad Mod, it is designed for the V6 and Dragon Hotend. I personally haven’t installed a Dragon, but I know many others went the Dragon route.
@@Eitri3D I ended up buying a mosquito hot end. When doing this one, you'll need to slim down the top carriage by 2mm, and the fan by 2mm for clearance.
That’s some great information to pass along. I appreciate your feedback for the community. Do you have a Thingiverse set up or a place where people can get your design? Just in case they don’t feel comfortable modding the original carriage.
@@Eitri3D I will upload it on thingiverse soon, as well as some of my mods for the original carriage.
@@bboydradle that would be awesome. Thank you.
Hi Mike & family, had an odd question for you guys. After printing about 2/3 roll of ABS filament on various projects, my X-Plus' hi temp extruder has stopped heating above 190*C, give or take 10*. Contacted customer support who advised me to increase the distance between heat sink & aluminum block, which gave slightly different temps but still under 200*. Since that didn't help, they were going to replace the extruder but, since I purchased it new from a seller on eBay (not Amazon or directly from Qidi), they won't honor my warranty. I replaced the heat pipe, no change. All connections are secure and I see no damage to the board or any other components. Any suggestions before I have to purchase an entire new hi temp extruder? I've printed 10x more with the regular extruder with no such issues and I'm stumped. Thanks as always for your input!
What a super nice conversion kit! I have followed it all the way you did it and my brand new Qidi X-Max is now completely ready for printing industrial parts with Nylon-Carbon Fiber at high temperatures.
I still have a question about the optional 30 mm fan that must be connected to the connector of the leveling input.
With me it is connected to pin 2 (-) and pin 3 (+) just like in your video, but it doesn't work. Does something else need to be switched on somewhere else !?
The quick answer is no. When plugged into the 3-pin it will be in a constant on state. I would plug it into the #1 position to ensure there isn’t an issue with the fan itself. Your other option is to splice those two fans together and plug into slot #1. If you do that, then both fans will kick on at 50°C.
@@Eitri3D Thanks for your quick response. Indeed, the problem was the fan itself. It's broken. It is the new fan of the ordered Trianglelab Highall-Metaal V6 Hotend. Maybe a cable break or something. I connected another one to the connector and it does indeed run continuously as long as the printer is on.
Thanks again for your beautiful full metal extruder solution for the X-MAX !! :-)
Thank you for the kind words. I cannot take credit for the all-metal upgrade design. I just took their words and put it into a video. I’m glad you were able to find the problem and get it fixed. Happy printing. Cheers!
Hello. Is it possible to see part 2? In the channel only part 1 and part 3.
Some company tried to claim Copyright Infringement so it is going through the process and should be back up next week. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Video 2 has been added back.
@@Eitri3D Hello. Very good. Thank you very much.
I finally did this but don’t have it working yet. My extruder is going the wrong direction; how can I fix this? Also, how can I calibrate the new extruder? Every time I try M501 in Octoprint, I get “ok N886”. Thanks.
Part 3 of the Chad Mod videos for into details on how to fix the direction issues and how to PID Tune. Do the PID and direction fix using the thumb drive. Use Octoprint to get you PID information for the correction.
the right and left thing wouldn't bother me
Nor me since I don’t mechanically move my hotend assembly, but for it to interpret gcode backwards would be an utter disaster.
Can you please follow up with a video to autotune without PI/ Octoprint?
finished but didnt know we had to use pi too
This is something I’ve been working on figuring out. I think I have a possible solution. I will be testing and recording if it works. Thank you for your comment.
@@Eitri3D im just all done up with mine just about to fire it up without the autotune =p see how it goes
Your temps may be a little from the display until I can test this new method, which is a goal tonight. Hopefully I’ll have an answer real soon.
I put other thermocouples, they do not fit, only when you fix your native one, it works with it, how to fix the error, please help.
I am not sure I understand your issue. The list of materials bought all fit together with no issues. Can you clarify?
@@Eitri3D Hi, I'll explain everything now, I fixed everything correctly, after which it turned out that the thermocouple from Trianglelab, which was included in the kit, does not fit, the board does not perceive it, I tried others, they also do not work, I put a regular one, but the temperature is very much not stable at 20 degrees, I tried the Pid does not help me.
That thermocouple in the description fits the Genuine E3D Heater Block that is in the description. The one in the kit isn’t the upgraded version. It was cheaper to buy the kit and toss that thermocouple than to buy everything different.
@@Eitri3D If it doesn't bother you, you can record a detailed video on the temperature settings, I would be grateful,? Or is there some kind of setup instruction? And how do I make the board work with a thermocouple from Trianglelab?
There are three videos in this playlist. Video 2 shows the assembly. Unfortunately video 2 has been removed because a company tried to claim copyright infringement. As soon as the dispute ends, it will be put back up and that will help.
Hola! agradezco tu actualización hasta el momento tengo todos los pasos bien, pero tengo problemas con el motor a paso, este se atasca cuando hago pruebas en el modo manual, revise la transmisión y aun así no veo a que se debe, si tienes alguna soluciona esto o un paso que me salte en la actualización?¿, muchas gracias!
follow everyone. Printing the filament rollors now
how did your rollers turn out?
@@Eitri3D tough to print. Slow is the key to stop the printer from shaking. Wish i could change the width on the filament nubs. I have a few rolls that dont fit.
I just moved my printer to a sturdier location in hopes of get a better base to attempt to decrease the shakiness. Was you able to get it all together in the end?
I also printed everything at 100%
That’s good to hear. I meant to also ask what rolls (brand/size) do you have that do not fit?
Ive build this and it runs beast mode compaired to that clicking joke of an extruder but no matter what I cant get the quality that I did. I updated the firmware and am constantly making adjustments so see if I can get the quality and only got a little closer. Also I cant run PLA with out is slowly plugging up just like on a normal all-metal hotend so I made one to run like the the low temp one and only really had to bore out the hotend and heat block a little to fit the bigger heat break that fit the tube and have had nothing but good on it so far. Saves me having to go back to factory firmware and reinstalling all the hardware again. So is there anything I'm missing?
So a few questions for you, did you add the third fan, what are your retraction settings, and did you run the PID tune to help dial it in? I ask because I have dialed in my settings and honestly have had zero PLA clogs (except for out of tolerance filament size) with the added/improved cooling. I run 208° with bed at 60° and 100% cooling with 1mm retraction at 30mm/sec and I’ll switch between FilamentOne, Hatchbox, eSun, and Filablend Filaments
@@Eitri3D Hey I'm Just seeing this, I figured out it was my fault with how I was putting the tubes in there And I worked most the bugs out. I use a .8mm tip with a Volcano heat block and I don't run it slow. I'm shocked with what this mod did. Easy 8X or more the factory recommended print volume. Now I sturggle with firmware. Is that reverse code I added firmware or not?? Octoprint says I have broken firmware and hardly anything works between the 2
Have you added the CBD_Fix on your OctoPrint? You could reset the firmware, but you’d have to readjust the reverse direction code again.
I just got everything completed and installed but when I go to the home position it hits and continues to drive. Is there something I need to adjust? I seen the comment below about adding a 2mm plate or something, is this necessary?
I ground/sanded the back edge of the fan down a small amount. Once I did that I’ve not had any issues. I did not install that 2mm plate. Some people needed it, and I thought I was going to also. The other big thing I would check is that your X axis arms are square within the frame. To adjust, just grab the arms and push one side and pull the other side.
@@Eitri3D I will give it a try. Thanks
No problem, would like to know if it works and if so, which one did it for you.
How do you access the PID controller?
Through my OctoPi that is hooked up.
I am having issues with mine. I did it to a XPlus and now my temp say 1077/200 is that something I have to do through octoprint
The issue is with your ribbon cable. Disconnect the ribbon cable and plug it back in to see if that fixes it.
I was just having the same issue. The thermocouple is probably lose, I recrimped mine and tightened down the pins and it solved that problem. Otherwise, it could be that you're using an incomparable thermistor.
Glad to hear you were able to diagnose the issue and fix it. The few 1077 issues I’ve dealt with were ribbon cable issues so thank you for explaining what you were able to do. I’m almost certain your comment will help others. Thank you.
@@Eitri3D ya i had the same issue it was just the ribbon cable not plugged in all the way
Yeah I’m always glad when it’s a simple fix, but I want to kick myself because it was something I overlooked.
where do you get all the firmware to reset the stepper motors?
There is a link on thingaverse under Chadmod in. instructions I believe thats where I got it from
Exactly. Plus if you google Chitu Gcode, you’ll get a list of the meanings of the most common lines of code.
You spoke very a lot so we got realy long video
Sorry you didn’t like all the speaking during the tutorial. Hopefully you still found the video useful.
@@Eitri3D Ok l just wanted recommend you cut speaking, because I think that it would be better