ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- 0:00 Beginning
1:20 Warning
2:06 JST-XH connectors
4:04 Installing Factory Extruder Board
4:45 Wiring
9:46 How it should look
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WILL THE CONTENT CREATORS OF THIS CHANNEL (EITRI3D) BE RESPONSIBLE OR LIABLE IN ANY WAY FOR ANY CONTENT, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY ERRORS OR OMISSIONS IN THE CONTENT, OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY KIND INCURRED AS A RESULT OF ANY CONTENT COMMUNICATED ON THIS TH-cam PAGE, WHETHER BY THE CONTENT CREATORS OF EITRI3D OR A THIRD PARTY. IN NO EVENT SHALL ANY OF THE CONTENT CREATORS OF EITRI3D BE LIABLE FOR ANY SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR ANY DAMAGES WHATSOEVER RESULTING FROM LOSS OF USE, DATA OR PROFITS ARISING OUT OF, OR IN CONNECTION WITH THE AVAILABILITY, USE OR PERFORMANCE OF ANY INFORMATION COMMUNICATED ON THIS TH-cam CHANNEL.
First off, I want to thank Jhenrikb, Chad, Bob, and Shaun for taking this Mod from conception to prototype to completion (instruction manual included). Those of us in the Qidi Facebook group greatly appreciate all of your help and your endless answering of our questions.
This is the Chad Mod. What is the Chad Mod you may be asking yourself? Basically, this is an entirely redesigned printing assembly for the Qidi X-Max and X-Plus using a E3D V6 or Dragon hotend, upgraded cooling system, and the addition of a dual drive extruder. The perks of this upgrade are the ability to print multiple different filaments without having to change out the standard hotend for the high temp hotend. This also removes the majority of the PTFE Tube, mainly the part that we all have cursed at and had to replace because it burns and distorts at higher temps. This also increase the cooling system by providing the ability to increase the fan size and add a third fan into your assembly (I highly recommend this if you plan on printing PLA with this upgrade).
Video #2: In this video we show you how to ensure your connections are secure by using the correct tools. We also show you how to wire everything up by providing you the schematic.
Be sure you take all precautions and ensure you are comfortable doing this upgrade. If you are not comfortable with wiring electronics then please do not attempt this.
Facebook: / eitri3d
Instagram: / eitri3d
Twitter: / eitri3d
All items and designs mentioned in this video are listed below.
This list is for your convenience.
THINGIVERSE:
Qidi X-Plus & X-Max Carriage BMG Extruder & Dragon or V6 Hot-End Mod
by cwills75 www.thingiverse.com/thing:399...
Bondtech BMG Extruder Short Handle
By cwills75 www.thingiverse.com/thing:452...
XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube
by iDig3Dprinting www.thingiverse.com/thing:127...
Qidi X-Plus & X-Max Carriage BMG Extruder Mod Build Guide
cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/32...
Amazon:
IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins
Sold by: iwiss
$22.29
DYWISHKEY 360 Pieces M3 x 6mm/8mm/10mm/12mm/16mm/20mm, 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Bolts Screws Nuts Kit with Hex Wrench
Sold by: DIY-Hardware
$9.69
Genuine E3D Block & Sock V6 Upgrade Kit (V6-BLOCK-SOCK-KIT)
Sold by: SmokeDaddy
$20.87
Bowden Extruder BMG Extruder Dual Drive Extruder for 3D Printer
Sold by: GO-3D Print
$36.95
WINSINN 50mm Blower Fan 24V 5015 Hydraulic Bearing 50x15mm Turbine Turbo - High Speed (Pack of 4Pcs)
Sold by: WINSINN
$8.98
BCZAMD 24V 50W Upgraded Ceramic Cartridge Heater Wire 1M 3D Printer Accessories Heating Tube 620mm for Reprap Prusa Mendel i3 MK3 MK10 Maker Select V2 3D Printer Parts V6 Hotend J-head Extruders, 3Pcs
Sold by: Aimengda
$10.85
iExcell 100 Pcs M3 x 30/35/40/45/50 mm 12.9 Grade Alloy Steel Hex Socket Head Cap Screws Assortment, Hex Key Wrench Included
Sold by: iexcell
$9.99
3D Printer T-K500 m3 x 15mm K Type Thermocouple Sensor K-Type Thermocouple for Volcano V6 HOTEND Block 500℃ PEI PEEK High Temperature 3D Printing
Sold by: POLISI3D
$11.90
WINSINN 35mm Fan 24V Hydraulic Bearing Brushless 3510 35x10mm - High Speed (Pack of 5Pcs)
Sold by: WINSINN
$10.98
QLOUNI 560Piece 2.54mm JST-XHP 2/3/4/5 Pin Housing with 2.54mm JST XH Male/Female Pin Header Dupont Wire Connector Kit
Sold by: wsm-us
$8.99
Gulfcoast Robotics] All Metal V6 Hotend 1.75mm Bowden Extruder for Prusa i3 Reprap 3D Printer. Deluxe Kit.
Sold by: Gulfcoast Robotics
$24.99
EBAY:
Qty 50 M3 3mm M3-0.5 Brass Threaded Metal Heat Set Screw Inserts for 3D Printing
Sold by: albersllc
$9.99
Music:
“Viking” Aakash Gandhi
“Fallacy” by Cxdy
“Just Us League” by DJ Freedom
“Pretty Boy” by DJ Freedom
“Savior Search” by DJ Freedom - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thanks for sharing this kind of projects. I enjoy a lot to upgrade my X MAX with your videos. Thank you.
Wow, thank you very much. That means a lot to us to know that we are actually helping people. Thank you again. Cheers!
I’m using simplify3d and trying to get the x-max to print all the upgrade parts in Priline Carbon fiber polycarbonate using the extra extruder provided with the printer. I’ve tried multiple different temperatures on a Calibration cube and keep getting sides that cup in. What print settings did you use as far as temps, retraction, speeds etc to get these parts to print correctly? Thanks in advance! Looking forward to this upgrade just gotta get the parts printed correctly.
I only drop the bed temp to 60 and the rest is the Qidi Print CF settings. I also printed my parts in Nylon/Carbon Fiber. I never tried PC on the factory hardware. Hope that helps.
@@Eitri3D what filament brand did you use to make your parts?
Inland CF from Micro Center. $25 for 0.5kg.
@@Eitri3D thank you! Gonna try it out!
I loved it. Make sure it is dry. Use a dehydrator or something before printing the first time. That will save you many headaches.
Quick question, I’m new to the 3D printing world and this might sound dum so please forgive me. So by doing this mod to my X-MAX what does this do? Faster printing, better prints, able to print different materials,
etc.
This upgrade does what both of the two extruders that came with the X-Max can do combined into one. The nozzle heats up quicker, the cooling is much improved and this add a dual drive extruder which is a HUGE improvement over the factory extruder. It also does away with the PTFE Tube being near the heater block so you won’t be replacing is anytime you you print the high temp materials. Basically, if you combined the two factory setups, added a bigger fan AND a third fan, then put a more reliable extruder on it, it would be this upgrade. Material swapping is no longer a issue. I can go from CF to PLA without changing anything on the machine. Hope that helps explain why it’s a great upgrade.
@@Eitri3D Thank you so much!!!!🙏 Ordering everything to get this going! keep the videos coming! Lol
Awesome. Best of luck with this upgrade. I’d love to see a picture after you complete it. I’ll keep pushing out videos as I get get opportunities to show off different filaments, machines, or even more upgrades. Cheers!
@@Eitri3D Will send pictures.
I use surgical clamps to work on the tiny things. Amazon. BTW going with Dragonfly all metal hot end clear dual screw BMG Extruder. Any other anodized Blue upgrades you know of . And when all these upgrades come together, what top cap do you put over this?
Our hotend assembly does not have a top cover. It is exposed due to the size of the mod. There is no room for a cover. As for other upgrades, I do not know any off the top of my head at this time.
@@Eitri3D I went with Dragonfly and double screw BMG extruder.
You design your own carriage?
@@Eitri3D though several and you have the designs done
How did you cut and crimp the thermocouple? I wrecked one already and can’t seem to get a clean strip of the exterior metal mesh. My inside wires always end up frayed.
I used my flush cutter to trim the outside mesh while unraveling some parts. Once I got the outside mesh to the desired size, I used a razor knife to strip the inner coating and then stripped the wires as necessary. Hope that helps.
@@Eitri3D thanks
No problem at all.
Can the bondtech lgx be used?
Unfortunately the pre-tensioner lever on top would hit the frame of the machine. You could fix this by limiting your X and Y limits in the firmware. Hope that helps.
i saw someone from another country made these and sold them assembled. Does anyone that yo knw of in the states make them for sale also? or would you?
Email us.
What is the email address?
Eitri3D@gmail.com
@@Eitri3D Thank you sir. Email sent. great videos by the way and hope to see more soon.
I have replied. As for more content, stay tuned because some big things are only days away from happening. Cheers!
I tried this upgrade with a Dragon hotend. My X-Max now will not heat up and reads 1077/0 for the temp.
I tried replacing the ribbon cable. It didn't work.
1077 as I assume you know is a bad connection. That connection could be anywhere. We mainly see it with the ribbon cable but I can be other places.
@@Eitri3D I really didn't know it could be elsewhere. Thanks for the tip. I will check all connections.
@@Eitri3D Thank you very much for your help. I changed the ribbon cable and no longer get the 1077 bad connection temp readout. However, I now get an "extruder sensor error or power is not enough" error when I try to heat up the nozzle. Any ideas? I've already replaced the motherboard on this, too.
The first things that come to mind are 1.) what wattage thermocouple and heater? 2.) Connection issue.
Can you share a link of the carbon fiber and nylon filament?
For this I used Inland CF from micro center.
@@Eitri3D Sorry to drive you crazy, Did you use the Brass nozzle to print with the Inland 1.75mm Natural Carbon Fiber
I used the high temp hotend that came with the X-Max with no modifications. Factory high temp hotend, nozzle, and extruder. I literally swapped in the high temp and hit print. You’re not driving us crazy, we started this to help others.
@@Eitri3D You GUYS ROCK! TY!
Thank you. Without this community, we wouldn’t exist here.
used and abused is right. Since my boards are down. Im painting all the panels except the bottom metal one
Gonna look like a whole different printer once you’re done with it. Can’t wait to see the final version.
Fried my motherboard when the cable for the hot bed got caught on the fan and pulled the pins out of the hot plate. Sparked and arched light show and that bad smell that something electrical cooked.
I’ve got so many questions. How did a cable get caught on a fan? Which fan?
@@Eitri3D one of the black back fans
I'd like a discussion on upgrading heat beds.
Came home to a cold pile of ABS
Can you send me an email with pictures? I’ve never heard about something like this happening. This is definitely something I will look into. Your pictures will help ensure I understand the whole situation. Would it be ok if I used the pictures you send in a video to explain this to others? Also, I’d contact Qidi Support and send them pictures.