At the 10:03 mark I install the gear incorrectly. please see this image (if image doesn’t appear click this link and scroll down - www.aliexpress.com/item/32917029058.html?spm=a2g0o.store_home.productList_6000478802797.subject_1). Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
Nice to see that you do videos for this mod. Build already several ones (as a service) for lots of people in the community (Europe) - always got good feedback. Based on the original mod I meanwhile offer 40mm fan (heatbreak coooling) + much more powerful (less air resistence) fan duct for part cooling. Lets see you next videos related to this :)
The upgraded cooling is huge, it’s makes it a lot easier to still be able to print PLA, which is difficult with an all metal hotend. I’ve seen your posts, you’re prints look amazing and consistent.
@@xd40xbdcef Hi Chris, would do but DHL wants 37€ for shipping. And is shipping via ship currently. Seems lack of capacity on air freight :( means takes a month.
Thank you for the video. Fallowing your video + PDF file to build mine. Just noticed that on 10:03 Install Factory Stepper you put the new gear wrong way (upside down). Just be careful out there who is building first time.
In Video #2 around 9:10-ish I explain the orientation of the stepper motor as I’m doing the wiring. Thank you for pointing that out in the first video. I think that was a clip of me test fitting because even when I messed up it was never installed in that orientation. I’ll see if I can adjust the video to make it a little more clear. Seriously, thank you for pointing that out.
Oh, hmm. Well, I can say it still works, for now at least. I did not know that. I honestly didn’t even know I had to swap that out until about an hour after struggling with the original gear. I’m going to need to take mine apart and swap it around I guess. What issues could arise if it stays in that orientation? So far I’ve had zero issues and that’s what makes me curious.
@@Eitri3D I didnt know my self, it was way to tight when try to move the gears by hand. And then I found this video. Feel free to delete my comment after, if you dont want links th-cam.com/video/oRpGCAuaZ9M/w-d-xo.html Also If you go to trianglelab shop on aliexpress, they provide same instructions to install it.
Thank you for that. I pinned a comment with a link to page so everyone can see how I made the mistake. Thank you very much for catching this for me and for everyone else.
Can you clarify - it makes sense after you watched the jamming video or you were directed to it after another video recommended it? Sorry, just looking for clarification.
I was directed here from that one but I had looked at this one on my own before. And was way more interested after watching the jamming one lol great vids bro good stuff. 👍
Wow, thank you very much and thank for you for clarifying. I’m glad these videos are helping/inspiring you to possibly do the upgrade. I am super happy I made the switch because my issues can now only be blamed on user error or bad filament, which I’m working a couple of videos for now. Cheers!
@@Eitri3D I'm glad the community has embraced it and ran with it. When I bought my X-Plus a couple years back there were no mods available and nobody in the forums knew how to do anything in the firmware yet. The community slowly figuring out the chitu firmware codes made things like this possible. Then it was just a matter of a couple hundred hours designing, printing, and testing everything. ;) Since the project started there are a lot more hotend options available also, which is nice.
Well you’re doing great things and I know I appreciate it and that also seems the to be the consensus in the forums/groups and hopefully with anyone who comes across these videos. Can’t wait to see new upgrade. We can call it Chad Mod - The next upgrade. Lol.
Thank you for the videos you two have created, as a new X-Max owner they have been invaluable. I do have a question in regards to filament choice for the carriage assembly. Would a clear poly carbonate be a viable alternative to carbon fiber infused Nylon?
Absolutely, as long as you can print PC using the stock high temp hotend. I personally never tried PC until after I did this swap to the new hotend. Hope that helps!
Good question. Our model was made of Nylon/Carbon Fiber filament. It combine two exceptionally strong materials which has worked very well for many who have completed this upgrade.
Nylon is more durable and with the blends it’s a better choice, in my opinion. If you print with ABS the fit will be fine, but I cannot speak for if or how well it will work.
My X MAX is clogging halfway through almost every print! I have to take the extruder and hotend apart, remove the stuck filament and swap out the bowden tube that's filled with PLA. Do you think this upgrade would help alleviate that issue?
This upgrade could absolutely help, but I recommend you try to troubleshoot why it’s constantly clogging in its current setup first. This way you can make sure that you are not doing the same thing and clogging the Chad Mod. Either way, I absolutely love this upgrade.
@@Eitri3D I just jammed up my brand new X-Max after one roll of Overture PETG. I was trying to figure out what to do after I saw some of the components of the X-Max leave a lot to be desired. I found the Chadmod and started getting the parts (new BMG, and Phaetus Dragon High Flow Hotend). I finally picked up the Nylon CF from Microcenter after a drive to Cleveland today, and after I dry the filament, and swap in the High Temp X-Max extruder, I'm ready to print!
So I’m having trouble getting the secondary cooling fan to run. Any ideas what might be going on here? It seems to come on randomly, but it’s off most of the time. I’m using the two pins on the right side of the three pronged plug. Negative on left positive on right. Thanks
There should not be a reason that fans stops. My first suggestion to make sure your connections are tight. They are in the correct places, but the intermittent on/off sounds like a bad connection. After that make sure the ribbon cable and motherboard connections are all properly seated.
Thanks for your videos, I've found several of them very helpful. I'm about to embark on doing the Chad Mod. One questions, did you use the high-temp extruder that comes with the X-Max to print the nylon parts? I'm seeing some Facebook group entries that say people are printing nylon with the standard extruder.
@@Eitri3D as near as I can tell the step angle is the same so the e steps would be the same. The only difference is the rated current. The smaller stepper is only rated at 0.7 amps. I guess I’ll have to try and figure out how to change that in the firmware. Thanks
We give credit where credit is due and you are the designer that designed the original model this one was based on. Thank you for that because the it definitely needed updated.
been thinking about modding mine i hate buying the hotend kit from their ebay store would the thermocoupler in this work for the factory head. or do you know a good replacement to order from amazon them shipping the parts out takes far to long would love to have a replacement heater block thermisitor and heating cartridge i can order from amazon for the factory head
I cannot honestly say if it would fit. I’ve long done away with my factory parts to be able to check. Honestly though, if you are wanting to replace the majority of the piece that make up the hotend, you should just purchase the V6 and do the full swap. All links are in the description and all but maybe one was bought through Amazon.
The PTFE Tube does not extend down into the hotend. It is used to guide it into the the cooling portion and then from there it is all metal from the cooling fins all the way down and out the nozzle. That is why it is an all metal hotend, unlike most that have the PTFE tube extend all the way down to the nozzle. Hope that help explains it.
![[안방1열 직캠4K] 베이비몬스터 치키타 'DRIP' (BABYMONSTER CHIQUITA FanCam) @SBS Inkigayo 241110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tnlxo79cAqY/mqdefault.jpg)
At the 10:03 mark I install the gear incorrectly. please see this image (if image doesn’t appear click this link and scroll down - www.aliexpress.com/item/32917029058.html?spm=a2g0o.store_home.productList_6000478802797.subject_1). Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
Nice to see that you do videos for this mod. Build already several ones (as a service) for lots of people in the community (Europe) - always got good feedback. Based on the original mod I meanwhile offer 40mm fan (heatbreak coooling) + much more powerful (less air resistence) fan duct for part cooling. Lets see you next videos related to this :)
The upgraded cooling is huge, it’s makes it a lot easier to still be able to print PLA, which is difficult with an all metal hotend. I’ve seen your posts, you’re prints look amazing and consistent.
Olaf do you still offer to build theese, send me a email i would love to buy i pre buildt kit
@@thetragilje3651 yes I do still: you can check here: www.elektrifiziert.net/shop/index.php?product/13-big-qidi-extruder-upgrade-package/
@@Ole-Endurance Do you ship to US?
@@xd40xbdcef Hi Chris, would do but DHL wants 37€ for shipping. And is shipping via ship currently. Seems lack of capacity on air freight :( means takes a month.
Thank you for the video. Fallowing your video + PDF file to build mine. Just noticed that on 10:03 Install Factory Stepper you put the new gear wrong way (upside down). Just be careful out there who is building first time.
In Video #2 around 9:10-ish I explain the orientation of the stepper motor as I’m doing the wiring. Thank you for pointing that out in the first video. I think that was a clip of me test fitting because even when I messed up it was never installed in that orientation. I’ll see if I can adjust the video to make it a little more clear. Seriously, thank you for pointing that out.
@@Eitri3D Its about the Gear install on the stepper motor shaft, not the stepper motor orientation. Sorry if I was unclear )
Oh, hmm. Well, I can say it still works, for now at least. I did not know that. I honestly didn’t even know I had to swap that out until about an hour after struggling with the original gear. I’m going to need to take mine apart and swap it around I guess. What issues could arise if it stays in that orientation? So far I’ve had zero issues and that’s what makes me curious.
@@Eitri3D I didnt know my self, it was way to tight when try to move the gears by hand. And then I found this video. Feel free to delete my comment after, if you dont want links th-cam.com/video/oRpGCAuaZ9M/w-d-xo.html
Also If you go to trianglelab shop on aliexpress, they provide same instructions to install it.
Thank you for that. I pinned a comment with a link to page so everyone can see how I made the mistake. Thank you very much for catching this for me and for everyone else.
You guys are great. Keep up the great vids.
Thank you very much for your kind words.
This video makes a lot more sense coming from your jamming video
Can you clarify - it makes sense after you watched the jamming video or you were directed to it after another video recommended it? Sorry, just looking for clarification.
I was directed here from that one but I had looked at this one on my own before. And was way more interested after watching the jamming one lol great vids bro good stuff. 👍
Wow, thank you very much and thank for you for clarifying. I’m glad these videos are helping/inspiring you to possibly do the upgrade. I am super happy I made the switch because my issues can now only be blamed on user error or bad filament, which I’m working a couple of videos for now. Cheers!
Nice video! I've updated the Thingi page with a link to it to help others out in the future.
Awesome. Thank you for everything! This is by far my favorite upgrade, so far. I’m working on parts 2 and 3 now.
@@Eitri3D I'm glad the community has embraced it and ran with it. When I bought my X-Plus a couple years back there were no mods available and nobody in the forums knew how to do anything in the firmware yet. The community slowly figuring out the chitu firmware codes made things like this possible. Then it was just a matter of a couple hundred hours designing, printing, and testing everything. ;) Since the project started there are a lot more hotend options available also, which is nice.
Well you’re doing great things and I know I appreciate it and that also seems the to be the consensus in the forums/groups and hopefully with anyone who comes across these videos. Can’t wait to see new upgrade. We can call it Chad Mod - The next upgrade. Lol.
Thank you for the videos you two have created, as a new X-Max owner they have been invaluable. I do have a question in regards to filament choice for the carriage assembly. Would a clear poly carbonate be a viable alternative to carbon fiber infused Nylon?
Absolutely, as long as you can print PC using the stock high temp hotend. I personally never tried PC until after I did this swap to the new hotend. Hope that helps!
Hi, I would like to ask, why didn't you use ABS filament??? Or Nylon?? aren't they really not suitable for printing this kit??
Good question. Our model was made of Nylon/Carbon Fiber filament. It combine two exceptionally strong materials which has worked very well for many who have completed this upgrade.
@@Eitri3D And if I print from abc, will it fit or is it better to take nylon?
Nylon is more durable and with the blends it’s a better choice, in my opinion. If you print with ABS the fit will be fine, but I cannot speak for if or how well it will work.
@@Eitri3DOkay, then I'll make the bottom part out of nylon and the top part out of abs.
Let us know how it works.
My X MAX is clogging halfway through almost every print! I have to take the extruder and hotend apart, remove the stuck filament and swap out the bowden tube that's filled with PLA. Do you think this upgrade would help alleviate that issue?
This upgrade could absolutely help, but I recommend you try to troubleshoot why it’s constantly clogging in its current setup first. This way you can make sure that you are not doing the same thing and clogging the Chad Mod. Either way, I absolutely love this upgrade.
This video saved my life!
Glad you’re still alive. Lol. Care to explain the circumstances? Glad the video could help.
@@Eitri3D I just jammed up my brand new X-Max after one roll of Overture PETG. I was trying to figure out what to do after I saw some of the components of the X-Max leave a lot to be desired. I found the Chadmod and started getting the parts (new BMG, and Phaetus Dragon High Flow Hotend). I finally picked up the Nylon CF from Microcenter after a drive to Cleveland today, and after I dry the filament, and swap in the High Temp X-Max extruder, I'm ready to print!
That is awesome to hear. Let us know how it turns out.
I think I took all the screws out of the carriage, how does that damn thing come off the rails?
So I’m having trouble getting the secondary cooling fan to run. Any ideas what might be going on here? It seems to come on randomly, but it’s off most of the time. I’m using the two pins on the right side of the three pronged plug. Negative on left positive on right. Thanks
There should not be a reason that fans stops. My first suggestion to make sure your connections are tight. They are in the correct places, but the intermittent on/off sounds like a bad connection. After that make sure the ribbon cable and motherboard connections are all properly seated.
@@Eitri3D ok cool thanks I’ll check it out.
Hey! which settings are you using for CF nylon? trying to do this mod for my xplus, thank you!
I run the default Qidi CF setting minus bed temp which I drop down to 60°-80°.
Thanks for your videos, I've found several of them very helpful. I'm about to embark on doing the Chad Mod. One questions, did you use the high-temp extruder that comes with the X-Max to print the nylon parts? I'm seeing some Facebook group entries that say people are printing nylon with the standard extruder.
Nylon/CF was printed using the high temp extruder.
Is there any reason I can’t use a pancake stepper Instead of the full size one? I figured it might be better to keep things lighter.
As long as you know the gear ratio, can calculate your esteps, and the dimensions are the same (minus depth obviously) then I don’t see why not.
@@Eitri3D as near as I can tell the step angle is the same so the e steps would be the same. The only difference is the rated current. The smaller stepper is only rated at 0.7 amps. I guess I’ll have to try and figure out how to change that in the firmware. Thanks
Yay my name was mentioned:) jhenrikb
We give credit where credit is due and you are the designer that designed the original model this one was based on. Thank you for that because the it definitely needed updated.
Nice video. Which Nylon filament did you use to print the new carriage?
I personally used Inland Nylon/CF from Micro Center.
Thanks! Any special print settings or just the default QiDi slicer settings?
The only change I made was bed temp down to 60°C.
been thinking about modding mine i hate buying the hotend kit from their ebay store would the thermocoupler in this work for the factory head. or do you know a good replacement to order from amazon them shipping the parts out takes far to long would love to have a replacement heater block thermisitor and heating cartridge i can order from amazon for the factory head
I cannot honestly say if it would fit. I’ve long done away with my factory parts to be able to check. Honestly though, if you are wanting to replace the majority of the piece that make up the hotend, you should just purchase the V6 and do the full swap. All links are in the description and all but maybe one was bought through Amazon.
@@Eitri3D I'm thinking about it I've just got to wait for their parts to get here to replace the broken parts to print it
Ahh, gotcha. That makes a lot of sense.
Did you have yo change Any firmware
I did have to make some software changes. Part 3 shows what all I did and what was needed and how to do it.
Does this work for xplus too?
I do not have an XPlus so I cannot speak on if this will work. Sorry.
How is called a all metal hotend when you still have a bowden tube installed in the actual hotend.....
The PTFE Tube does not extend down into the hotend. It is used to guide it into the the cooling portion and then from there it is all metal from the cooling fins all the way down and out the nozzle. That is why it is an all metal hotend, unlike most that have the PTFE tube extend all the way down to the nozzle. Hope that help explains it.