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The CT9A is definitely different to the CP9A. I'm not sure about the CE9A models tho. If you send me your VIN I can look it up but as yours is on the other side to mine I think they would not be compatible. Ahh I see you have an Evo II. That is so cool!

Thanks mate. Its taken so much time and money to get it to where it is now. Live and learn I guess.

Great! Thanks for the feedback. What car are you working on?

It's the same era as the car I did the replacement on, in the video, so it's very likely. I'm not familiar with the Pathfinder but if you send me some photos of your steering boot setup I might be able to tell. You can send photos to my Instagram or Facebook channels. cheers Andy

Sorry I didn't document it well either as I was figuring out the procedure as I was doing the job, so my video footage was messy. So, especially on the 4 piston calipers its really important to remove all the pistons evenly and gradually in a controlled manner. I used some blocks of wood and plywood shims of similar size to the brake pads only thicker so when I add compressed air to the brake fluid port the pistons are restricted in the distance they can come out. About 1/4' (5mm) at a time is good, then remove a shim and apply air again, and again. You need to get all pistons to come out evenly because if 1 or more pistons pop out before all of them are almost out you will lose all air pressure and have to slide the pistons back in temporarily to try again. Several old brake pads might make good shims. Don't add high pressure air and don't put your fingers in there as you could get seriously hurt with a broken or trapped finger, wear a face shield too! I think about 30psi is recommended but seriously be careful. I had to crank the psi a bit higher. Re-installing pistons is possible if they prematurely pop out but they need to be perfectly straight and lubed up, if they don't slide back in without force wiggle it out and get the angle straight and try again. The seals come out pretty easy but try not to use a metal pick as if you scratch the piston or caliper its probably game over.

@@UzumakiGarage I appreciate the reply. Still good information for me to have as I was initially thinking they could just be pulled out. I may take on this job soon with a spare set of evo 8 Bembos and was wanting to do some homework ahead of time.

@@BoostedFilms It's really not a difficult job for someone with your skills. I probably go into too much detail when trying to explain things. The other idea I thought of this morning is to use a brake pad spreader sitting inside the caliper to restrict the movement of the pistons when compressed air is applied. Then gradually back off the spreader to allow the pistons to come out (if that makes sense) I really wish I had filmed it properly but I think that was my first video.

@@UzumakiGaragestill a good video. I was happy to see you mentioned the part of removing the paint from the mounting surfaces.

Yes that’s right! Tommi Makinen Edition 😎

@@UzumakiGarage It's so amazing, I'd like to see videos of all EVO models - and repairing videos of the EVO 7 ;)

I don't have an evo 7 but it is mostly the same as my Evo 9. And a lot of things on the Tommi Mak is relevant to the evo 7 too :)

@@UzumakiGarage Oh okay, that's is good to know, than could you make a view videos of these, you're fine with it? It would help me a lot :D

@@margotrasch5684 Yes of course. Please Subscribe and click the little Notify Bell to be Notified when the latest video is uploaded :)

Thank you so much! Yes its all about JDM cars for me too. Do you drive a JDM car?

@@UzumakiGarage Hi, yes I have a Mazda and in one and a half weeks I get a Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VII additionally, I'm absoloutely exited and can't await it :D

@@margotrasch5684 oh cool. You should make some videos or Instgram post about it

@@UzumakiGarage Okay, why not, I'll make good vids of both cars than, I promise, could you maybe show some videos of the EVO VII as well, I'd appreciate it :)

Thanks for the comment sir. much appreciate your feedback 🙂

Thanks mate 😀

Haha cheers mate :) Hope you're doing well.

Thanks mate. I might paint the floor with epoxy when the weather warms up. So cold ATM and its only going to get worse in the coming months. Hard to make videos now too

@@UzumakiGarage man I've taken months off due to kids school and sports schedules. Now that it's summer here I'll have more time I hope.

Hard to get motivated here right now. Too Cold 🥶

@@UzumakiGarage you know I did most of my work during our winter. I put a little space heater in the garage. I find it much easier than when it's sweltering hot with high humidity.

Haha true. When I restored my TME it was mostly through winter and I was outside all day every day even if the maximum temp was 5 degrees celsius. Working on Mechanicals mostly and restoration while waiting for warmer days to start spray painting in my "booth". Thanks for giving this Short video a boost, its getting more popular now thanks to you :)

Hey Danny. Yes I did, but I think I could've just used only the Lithium NLGI2 grease instead of complicating things by adding rubber grease to the actual bellows.

@@UzumakiGarage Do you mean not adding grease to the inside of the bellow at all or just using the NLGI 2 for the inside of the bellows as well?

@@camtwan1 I think you should add some grease to the inside of the bellows. Not a crazy amount though

Thanks very much Richard! and you're welcome mate. I always found that removing a tie rod end from the Hub/knuckle was difficult and risked damaging the tie rod end boot. When I worked out there was a better way I had to share. :) What car are you working on?

I'm working on a 2004 Ford Focus C-max 2L diesel in the UK. I was also worried about causing damage. I'm self taught and videos like yours and Haynes manuals are a great help. Saves me a fortune doing repairs myself 😊

@@richard3769 yes for sure. And when you do things yourself you can take your time and get the satisfaction of doing the job properly.

You know it. In the past, I've had to redo mechanics' work because they used cheap parts that later failed.

Thank you Sir. Let me know how your Evo 8 goes and if its very different to the Evo 6 procedure. cheers from Australia :)

Good luck mate. It might be that all the double sided tape and foam has crumbled away and that might be causing the extra wobble. Someone recently started making the metal internal brackets in stainless if i remember correctly. So if yours aren't healthy you have a great option now

Thanks, After being in place for 24 something years getting it off was a brutal exercise, even with using fishing line and a collection of plastic spatulas. Luckily the metal structure doesn’t appear to be rusted thankfully. I could only remove 3 of the 4 inner screws that appear to hold the lower blade on, and couldn’t remove any of the 4 large flat screws (it felt like any more pressure would destroy the screw head, despite applying a penetrating oil twice a day for 2 weeks). I’m surprised by the lack of info online, or that no one has done a detailed video showing the full breakdown of every component. I’m normally ok with this type of stuff but this time I was beat, cracked the shits and gave it to a panel shop (as the spoiler was minor accident damaged anyway) I’ll see how they go…. BTW you were right about the foam strips breaking down causing extra wobble, the paint on the boot lid was worn through to the metal where the vertical pieces touches on the inner, and under the common cracking points on the back outer. This will just be touched up as I don’t want to respray over the good original factory paint. Cheers.

@@chazkdarwin3875 Yes I had to soak the big flat screws for a long long time using Corrosion X. Then I had to cut a new slot in some of them with Dremel tool or angle grinder (can't remember) I think an Impact Screw driver was used to release them. Lucky i had spare screws to replace them too. Yes its a big job with lots of steps, probably why not many people make DIY videos.

If its a stock 2.0L engine you don't need a catch can. The valve cover breathes enough back thru the turbo inlet and also via the PCV to the inlet manifold.

@UzumakiGarage ah I see. Thanks for the reply much appreciated 👍

@@randyshiwji1708 no probs. I’ll always try reply to comments as its the right thing to do when someone has made the effort to write something. Cheers

Thanks man, I appreciate your feedback :) cheers

It works on my Japanese Hondas and Mitsubishi cars. I wont say it works on all cars but i bet it works on most cars that use this style of steering rack.

@@UzumakiGarage i dont know is it fine to experimenting on Peugeot (France) cars

@@Mr11ESSE111 I've never worked on a Peugot so I don't know how their steering system.

Thanks Chef. I appreciate the feedback :)

I don't fully understand your questions and its been a few years since the last time I was doing this job but you should be able to screw the fuel pipe fitting quite a few turns into the filter by hand. Thats important so you don't damage the pipe fitting threads. Then I keep this pipe fitting quite loose while screwing the bracket bolt onto the chassis (again by hand) to get it aligned correctly, then i gradually take turns tightening the pipe fitting and mounting bolt a bit at a time.

You're welcome!

Hey thanks for the feedback man, much appreciated. Cheers bro

Yeah man. Definitely!

It depends on how thoroughly you want do the job as to how many parts you want to replace. Also the part numbers sometimes change and sometimes you can upgrade the parts for example you can use the more modern evo 9 timing belt tensioner and the evo 9 kevlar timing belt. Mitsubishi part numbers often change too. Probably best to use your VIN and search thru the parts diagrams on partsouq.com and decide how much you want to replace. I like to replace the water pump and crank angle sensor etc while its all dismantled too

I made it longer to help spread the load and increase stability. I feel it is more stable sitting on the jack stand compared to a short version.

Its rare to see an Evo 7 or Evo 5 here. That yellow 7 has huge power.

@@UzumakiGarage the Yellow Evo IV is one of my all time favorites. It screams Fast and Furious to me.

@@shautohaus i want a yellow evo V. or a red one. I might sell my white evo 6 so i can achieve this dream

You are welcome mate. Are you doing a timing belt service soon?

I can do yours for a fair price. A lot of labour is required

Thanks you sir. i appreciate your feedback. cheers mate

Yes its very good hey. I wonder if i really needed to re-install the factory baffles???? What do you think?

Na I think you did the right thing. The oil may act differently and cause issues.@@UzumakiGarage

yeah it didn't really work for me this time either. I need a lift.

Thanks man. I used M5 screws.

@@UzumakiGarage Thanks!

@@stewartrhaines if you’re doing this on an evo just be aware if you drill too deep you can run through into the holes that hold the coil cover onto the valve cover. Upper and lower holes line up on some of them

@UzumakiGarage Thanks for the info 👍! I'm going to be wiring my haltech wb1 this weekend the way you did. Thanks for the video on that, too!

@@stewartrhaines you’re welcome. Let me know how it goes. Good Luck!

Thanks man. It was a successful upgrade but it did take some work hours.

Thanks very much Ash. I haven't heard of using JB like that but I wouldn't trust it that way. I was going to drill different screws and add aviation wire to each but there's not much clearance under the valve cover. Maybe if some slim titanium fasteners were available, pre drilled for aviation wire, would be a good option???

You’re welcome mate. Hope it helps. Do you have some worn out steering rack boots to replace too?

Haha yeah i think i used an old GoPro tucked down behind the gearbox for some shots to help show what Im doing. The copper washers are part number MB906711. They were not included with the filter. Good idea to replace them. Are you changing your filter too?

@@UzumakiGarage honestly until I watched this I didn't even think about it. Right now I'm kind of leaving the engine alone until I determine if I need to replace it sooner rather than later. But eventually all maintenance items are on the table.

@@shautohaus I'd like to get a spare evo 9 engine for my evo 6 while they're still available. just in case something goes wrong badly.

I normally pour a bit of oil in the filters but as it screws onto the engine in a horizontal orientation it would be very messy filling it more than 1/3 full. I have read some discussions on this about if it’s better or not really necessary. What do you do?

@@UzumakiGarage I understand that it's harder with that way of oil filter placement. Better to fill with something rather than nothing. Otherwise u don't have oil pressure until like 4/5sec and it's been proven.

@@UzumakiGarage What oil did you use? 10w-30? 5w-30? And what brand.?

@@honda4185 For this video I used Penrite HPR5 5-40 engine oil but nowadays I use the genuine Honda Engine Oil "Feo Ultra" 10W-30 API SP/GF-6 on my Hondas. When doing turbo replacement on my evos I disconnect the crank angle sensor (which stops spark and fuel delivery) and crank over the engine several times without starting it to get oil pumping all through the motor, head and turbo before actually starting the engine. That's probably a good idea for simple oil changes too.

Its for the automatic electronic toll collection system where you need an authorised credit card inside the reader while driving. She actually says: ETCカードを入れてください。 ETC kado o irete kudasai. Or simply Please insert your ETC card.

Cheers mate thanks. Yes it sounds very lumpy when the engine has warmed up, because of the aftermarket cams.

Cheers mate. I used a satin black Rustoleum heat proof paint. I painted the whole system except for the high flow cat and stainless muffler. 3” all the way to turbo. 😊

@@UzumakiGarage thorough as always. I'll add that to my growing list of maintenance items.

Thanks very much mate cheers. They look great and excellent quality. Is the Blitz very loud? I think their titanium pipes are.

Hi Gav. No I haven't made a rear diff oil change video yet. I do have a cool technique for refilling the diffs I would like to share soon tho. Does your Evo have the AYC rear Diff or the RS rear diff?

@@UzumakiGarage that would be awesome and I look forward to watching that vid. Your vids are awesome , really well done and very informative. My Evo is a VI GSR so has the AYC diff.

@@gavn1230 thanks very much mate, i do like making the videos. Thanks for the diff oil change suggestion too. I’ll get to it as soon as i can. Cheers.

You would have to offer quite a lot of money to buy this one

@@UzumakiGarage name that price

​@@user-bk1wv3hs2o50k

😂 there not cheap anymore..paid 28 k for mine

Seems like lots of cool JDM cars end up in NZ. Australia has become ok in the last couple of years but everything is expensive to import now . Thanks for the comment. What are you driving nowadays?

@@UzumakiGarage yea bro it’s a JDM Paradise As We Driver RHD Right Hand Drive Cars in NZ & Aus So They Can Get Directly Imported Cheap Since The Very Beginning lol & Yea I’ve Git A Turbo BARRA & A RB30DET C35 Laurel But I Buy & Sell JDM Cars Only Turbos Ones Tho hahaha

A collaboration??? Yes probably could do that. Where R you located?

🙈 no that’s what she is saying to you.. 😂😂 I’m in the UK . Humbled of the thought though👍

@@rcp6066 oh man that went right over my head. Embarrassed now.

Haha yes it does sound like that. Thanks mate. Very good. 👍

As a taco lover, I agree.