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Gary, good question, anyone have the answers please, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol I have it on good authority that starting 1998MY Jaguar base coats are waterborne and likely use low VOC clears. Perhaps they are PPG or other similar Euro brand.

JK, no problem, glad it worked, regards Damian

@memeartist9053, gas pedal isn’t connected to the brake pedal box on this car. It’s bolted to the bulkhead in its own and therefore still in the car, regards Damian

Glenn, sounds like a parallel project but LHD. Interested to hear your experiences. Our Email address is oanddr@gmail.com . Your canbus module sounds very interesting hope you can get in working, regards Damian.

Chas, thanks for your interest in our project. There was a loom and black box with the ‘kit’. Hoping it still works to foul the TCM that the auto box is still attached. Fingers crossed, regards Damian.

hi, the charging sockets fuse is F44 (20Amps). Hope that helps, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol Thnx 🤟🏼

No problem 😉

@knuthofftkierulf3617, no problem, glad to help in some small way. It's good to have help even from afar. 'A problem shared is a problem halved' as we say in the UK. Good idea to have some extra hands when you do start to make your repair. Good luck, regards Damian

Mark, thank you for your support from across the pond. I think, I am probably over thinking it but I would feel more confident if all the components calculations made sense. Thanks for comment, much appreciated, regards Damian

Serena, Assume you want the driver side wing mirror glass for a Ford Escape? If so see link below. Hope that helps, regards Damian www.amazon.com/Driver-Mirror-Glass-Replacement-Escape/dp/B0C4YFXHRG/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.531cef2e-f162-4a38-b9c7-86c1f0d9cc94%3Aamzn1.sym.531cef2e-f162-4a38-b9c7-86c1f0d9cc94&crid=2A1R0U07MJLCB&cv_ct_cx=Ford%2Bkuga%2Bmirror%2Bglass%2B2014%2Bdrivers&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.a7NplcIa4c8KeGuwHt6OlE9jTMv08ds6PNWKX9OaRZ8Bw9JuELgfEf6gbrBI3dFp.Oq2C6sVBVnP3aXbHOssiPDxCHHZlgsk_iUFdWd5QENU&dib_tag=se&keywords=Ford%2Bkuga%2Bmirror%2Bglass%2B2014%2Bdrivers&pd_rd_i=B0C4YFXHRG&pd_rd_r=c56d4108-c91a-4661-9219-d735c6085e87&pd_rd_w=FjCqf&pd_rd_wg=wyksl&pf_rd_p=531cef2e-f162-4a38-b9c7-86c1f0d9cc94&pf_rd_r=4VDAXREFSW64FKB2RJDS&qid=1720298182&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=ford%2Bkuga%2Bmirror%2Bglass%2B2014%2Bdrivers%2Caps%2C145&sr=1-1-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

Udo, glad you understood the explanation. I was worried I was rambling a bit and maybe people couldn't follow my thread. Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated, regards Damian

CK, Thanks for the interest, a lot more to do and more videos to follow. Glad to are enjoying it as much as I am, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol it’s something that I would consider for my car as well and is really interesting to see the processes. I feel the only let down for them is the sluggish gearbox

@NewcreationinChrist777, Its called the backing or base plate but normally comes already attached to glass, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol not the glass and not the base but the circular piece that makes them connect. I wish i could show u a picture

Ricky, no that's unlucky. Good luck with your investigations, regards Damian

@overbuiltautomotive1299, as you say its only metal bashing. Aiming for a highest quality result possible plus be able to share the method with anyone else wanting to try the same thing. Lots of trial and error but we will get there. Thanks for the interest and feedback, regards Damian

@overbuiltautomotive1299, lots of solutions to the ECU issue but again its all time and effort to interrogate and translate the can bus signals. PVC and JS have done all that work, seems sensible to utlilise that Jaguar knowledge and know how, regards Damian

David, the transmission control module (TCM) should prevent any shifting that would result in damage to the transmission. It won’t let you shift down in this case. Hope that helps, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol thank you

Wizard, my repair only partly worked too. The plastics are really old, hard and brittle. Thanks for your sharing your experience, regards Damian

Jose, thank you for the kind feedback, regards Damian

@tainchains, we have the same female Torx sockets and couldn't remove them that way either. Going to remove them using grips and buy new studs and nuts to replace them. Thanks for the comment, regards Damian

I bought m6 bolts and nuts and just used those to reattach the new own. It was diffcuul ti slide the converter off so I ended up cutting it in front of the exhaust. And the patt that was left in was also hard to remove and it was hard to slip the new converter in. Thanks for a very useful video!

@tainchains, thank you for sharing your experience, it’s noted. We have still to re-assembled ours but we are sure it will be fun, regards Damian

Paul, the toothed end of the cable is just wound back into the white housing. There aren't any clips. Good luck with your repairs, regards Damian

@Ysvloree, If I remember correctly it was the mic on the iPhone, regards Damian

Colin, No problem . Agreed, the traditional walnut really grows on you and whispers Jaaggg. I wouldn't be surprised that airbag and cover is constructed in a similar way (XJ and XK). It would be much appreciated if you could confirm if it is the same. Good luck with your project, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol Will do - certainly the replacement veneer cover has the same seatbelt material restraint and the workshop manual shows the same fixings etc for the glovebox.

Colin, good luck,regards Damian

@@ODRModurol Well, it's done and took about 90 mins all up. Similar series of steps to the XK8, with some differences in the number of nuts and sizes. After unclipping the trim cover, I could see two 10mm nuts/bolts to remove (I think there were some 7mm ones on the XK8 as well). Glovebox removal was identical. After glovebox removal, there were two of the same 10mm nuts/bolts underneath. After remove of those, you could push the airbag unit up and out to remove it. Rest was the same - disconnect the electrics, remove the old trim piece (same bolt types), replace (thread lock the bolts etc) with the new trim piece, then reinstall in reverse. The only tricky bit was getting the electrics/wires in, but I managed to get it all sorted in the end and it looks great! Your video definitely helped with the overall steps. Specific nuts and bolts are a little different, but the process is basically the same.

Ed N, yes it worked with the Duratorq 163, its a very similar engine and EGR control is the same, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol Thanks so much for that ultraquick reply! Much appreciated! Do you by any chance have a link to that specific blanking plate? -edit- never mind that, found it in another comment!

@Fendy_NL, no problem, good luck finding one. Not too difficult to make, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol Lol, as luck would have it I just now had a MIL indicating EGR throttle stuck. So I have my work cut out for me this weekend :D

Wayne, good point, didn’t think of that. Not sure if I can find one though. Thanks for your input, much appreciated, regards Damian

Captain, sorry I haven’t explored that area of the car. Removal and replacement should be covered in the workshop manual available at our website Modurol.co.uk . Hope that helps and please let us know how you fixed your steering column issue, regards Damian

@Ytrahcodo, good idea and thank you for the suggestion. We have been able to refine the master cylinder location to improve the clearance to the wiper arm link. Sorted that issue for the moment but now on to the next, regards Damian

@twentyrothmans7308, thanks for you for your message of support. We are working through them one by one, regards Damian

Alan, glad the video helped. Thank you very much for your gift. Very much appreciated, regards Damian

Neil, sorry I haven’t had that problem with my leaf. When I have had condensation previously I have drilled drain hole to allow any water to escape. Sorry can’t be more helpful and good luck with your repairs, regards Damian

Rusty, sorry you weren’t able to get your car fixed for your budget. It can get very expensive very quickly especially if you aren’t doing the work yourself. Doesn’t sound like the garage wasn’t honest and transparent with you, regards Damian

@lufuc, Pas de problème, content que cela vous ait aidé, cordialement Damian

George, need to remove the tank and then sensor from the bottom. Possibly the sensor seal has failed and needs renewing. Hope that helps, regards Damian

Andy, Very good point, possibly available on the XJ but couldn't see listed for the XK8. Unless we are wrong that is, Regards Damian

@mcox4700, excellent but you are never too late for this party., PS have you tried the same idea to create DRL's using the front fogs? regards Damian Link to that video th-cam.com/video/kbEM7QAOVsU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ilX2Kw6cI5sH9Qyt

Andy, nothing close to the XK8 (old XJS) design unfortunately. Trying to keep fairly standard, regards Damian

Darren, glad it worked out for you and thank you for the feedback, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol now I just have the rust to tackle! And apply for a mortgage for the fuel...

Phillip, Thank you for the positive feedback, much appreciated, regards Damian

@knuthofftkierulf3617, this is an interesting problem. You can see the cause when looking at the wiring diagram Fig15.1 Page 59 of 123, available for free on our website modurol.co.uk . There are two independent switches for the passenger window lift control, in the drivers side and passenger side switch packs. This would explain why the drivers side controls are working but not the passenger side. The passenger side microswitch for window open and closed is broken and needs replacement. So, we would agree with your hypothesis and you need to investigate the passenger side lock microswitches. Hope that helps and please let us know how you get on with your repairs, regards Damian Link to wiring diagram drive.google.com/file/d/13L8MiPsp25hvmZmQ9zPQJy_JMqH7d6Qv/view

@szymeklawik7636, Assuming your car is post 2001 model? The first thing would be to try to rest the airbag light with a code reader. Disconnecting the seat with the battery connected would trigger the warning light as the seat has airbags. In still no good. There are two 2-way black connectors in the seat for that model year. SEAT BACK TILT SWITCH (SD24) and SEAT BACK TILT SWITCH (SD25). SD24 has green and black with white stripe wires. SD25 has green and black with green stripe wires. You can see these in the wiring diagram Fig12.1 page 89 of 152. The wiring diagram can be found for free on our website modurol.co.uk (see link below). Hope that helps, please let us know, regards Damian Link to wiring diagram drive.google.com/file/d/14mQL-VMEQUYQxatDRAGNDIdaHZE2cKr7/view

@szymeklawik7636, If there's a fault, the airbag light should come on for six seconds, then go out for two seconds, then flash the appropriate number of flashes for the fault, go off again for two seconds, then repeat the whole sequence five times. Finally the light stays on until the ignition is turned off. Eg; Flash code 16 would be shown as lamp ON for one occurence of 0.5 seconds, then lamp OFF for one second, followed by six occurences of lamp flashing ON/OFF for 0.5 seconds each (1 - 6). here is the list of codes i.e. the number of flashes that are seen, may help point you in the right direction 13 - Crash data memory full 16 - Pass seat weight sensor CAN fault 17 - Pass spatial sensor CAN fault 18 - Pass airbag deactivate lamp circuit fault 19 - Airbag circuit status fault - driver 21 - Airbag circuit status fault - pass 22 - Side Airbag circuit fault - driver 23 - Side Airbag circuit fault - pass 33 - Seat Belt Pretension fault - driver 34 - Seat Belt Pretension fault - pass 42 - Impact sensor circuit fault - front 43 - Impact sensor circuit fault - driver side 44 - Impact sensor circuit fault - pass side 51 - Seat belt switch circuit fault - driver 52 - Seat belt switch circuit fault - pass 53 - Airbag audible warning circuit fault 54 - RCM configuration failure What code are you getting? It might be as simple as the seat belt switch wiring. Hope that helps, please let us know how you get on, regards Damian

@kellier1916, Thank you, regards Damian

Just put in a brand new battery but I was having this before too

@Kellier1916, Sorry I have no experience of that fault. Normally, it’s best to start with a physical check for wiring damage around the module. To blow the fuse there might be sort in the loom somewhere. Then try a code reader and read the error codes. This should give you some clues as to the fault. Sorry cannot be more helpful, regards Damian

@@ODRModurol çode reader I have can't access anything, I can't hear the fuel pump coming on... Possible that's dead and why I'm getting cranky no start. Side note I let her run out of petrol the other day 😔

She was driving fine up untill that but still blowing that fuse the odd time... I must have a short somewhere

extremely “hot”

Beerage, agreed the quality of some LED bulbs can be quite poor, regards Damian