If you compare the images at 3:20 & 3:30 it looks like Jaguar wants the jack forward of your arrow. Where the "Y" is more splayed out. Possibly the worst drawing ever, but I think I see the two bolts you point to in the drawing. Have you looked underneath to see which area is most directly supported? Thanks for all your helpful videos.
Matt, you are correct the Jaguar diagram show the jack forward of the point I recommend. I prefer to jack directly under the rear most fixing points. This is directly under the differential and pendulum. These are both cast iron and more secure than the 28 year old sheet metal rear crossmember. Thanks for the feedback and question, regards Damian
An interesting video, Damian. I like your slotted gadget for using under the front plastic valance but I've seen so many with cracked plastic that I just remove it and use a block of wood directly onto the metal crossmember. Apart from three small screws near the central jacking point it's only held on with plastic push fittings so it's a 5 minute job to take it off. Richard
On my car it wasn't a 5 minute job to take the front undertray off, because all the screws and the clips that hold them in place were corroded. Definitely worthwhile though, at least the first time, as Damian says, to make sure you are not jacking up and relying on a piece of Swiss cheese!
Richard, thanks didn't want to damage the lower valance. What year is your car? My early valance has bolts either side and inside the wheel arch from what I can remember so not that the easy to remove. Maybe your car is different? Interested to understand, regards Damian
@@ODRModurol Mine is a 1997 convertible. There must be some differences because even the screws on mine are self-tappers and just go into plastic blocks in the bottom of the cross-member. All the rest (about 6 along each leading curved leading edge and 3 across the bottom of the wheel arch liner, which also hold the little plastic air deflectors in place) are plastic push rivets. There's nothing to corrode apart from the heads of the 3 self-tappers but even those are still the originals.
Geez Damian, those blocks would hold a Cat dozer! I never could understand Jag's logic with that plastic cover over the center core support. As you mentioned, it contributes to rusting (on a structural member, no less), and does little else. I'd think the smarter thing would've been to have left the center of the cover out so you just have contact with metal, who wants to jack on plastic anyway? Lifting these cars is such a pain, I broke down and bought a lift that I now can use on all my vehicles and I can walk under the Jag now, takes about 15 minutes to set it up. I should've bought that lift years ago!
Hi Damian, these blocks are a good idea, making them is easy. Unfortunately I no longer have room in my garage. I still place the vehicle on metal stands in the designated places. The vehicle is safe, right? I didn't know about the front central option for lifting, thanks for the tip. Greetings Udo. 🇬🇧👍🏴
Udo, Thanks for the feedback. As long as you use the Jaguar specified jacking point you should be fine. I am just more confident using a solid support than metal fabrications when using breaker bars etc, regards Damian
Thank you for the video - this is really clear and helpful. You got my subscription!!
Dave, thank you, we much appreciate your subscription, regards Damian
If you compare the images at 3:20 & 3:30 it looks like Jaguar wants the jack forward of your arrow. Where the "Y" is more splayed out. Possibly the worst drawing ever, but I think I see the two bolts you point to in the drawing. Have you looked underneath to see which area is most directly supported? Thanks for all your helpful videos.
Matt, you are correct the Jaguar diagram show the jack forward of the point I recommend. I prefer to jack directly under the rear most fixing points. This is directly under the differential and pendulum. These are both cast iron and more secure than the 28 year old sheet metal rear crossmember. Thanks for the feedback and question, regards Damian
Hi Damian, very detailed and safe way to work under the car….. your car looks immaculate underneath….
John, thanks, like to think I can keep the rust in check. Doesn't always work that though, regards Damian
Really helpful, thank you
Jonathan, no problem, thanks for the feedback, regards Daman
An interesting video, Damian. I like your slotted gadget for using under the front plastic valance but I've seen so many with cracked plastic that I just remove it and use a block of wood directly onto the metal crossmember. Apart from three small screws near the central jacking point it's only held on with plastic push fittings so it's a 5 minute job to take it off.
Richard
On my car it wasn't a 5 minute job to take the front undertray off, because all the screws and the clips that hold them in place were corroded.
Definitely worthwhile though, at least the first time, as Damian says, to make sure you are not jacking up and relying on a piece of Swiss cheese!
Richard, thanks didn't want to damage the lower valance. What year is your car? My early valance has bolts either side and inside the wheel arch from what I can remember so not that the easy to remove. Maybe your car is different? Interested to understand, regards Damian
@@ODRModurol Mine is a 1997 convertible. There must be some differences because even the screws on mine are self-tappers and just go into plastic blocks in the bottom of the cross-member. All the rest (about 6 along each leading curved leading edge and 3 across the bottom of the wheel arch liner, which also hold the little plastic air deflectors in place) are plastic push rivets. There's nothing to corrode apart from the heads of the 3 self-tappers but even those are still the originals.
Geez Damian, those blocks would hold a Cat dozer! I never could understand Jag's logic with that plastic cover over the center core support. As you mentioned, it contributes to rusting (on a structural member, no less), and does little else. I'd think the smarter thing would've been to have left the center of the cover out so you just have contact with metal, who wants to jack on plastic anyway? Lifting these cars is such a pain, I broke down and bought a lift that I now can use on all my vehicles and I can walk under the Jag now, takes about 15 minutes to set it up. I should've bought that lift years ago!
Andork, agreed doesn't make sense covering the lower front cross with plastic trim. I would really love a proper lift maybe one day, regards Damian
Hi Damian, these blocks are a good idea, making them is easy. Unfortunately I no longer have room in my garage. I still place the vehicle on metal stands in the designated places. The vehicle is safe, right? I didn't know about the front central option for lifting, thanks for the tip. Greetings Udo. 🇬🇧👍🏴
Udo, Thanks for the feedback. As long as you use the Jaguar specified jacking point you should be fine. I am just more confident using a solid support than metal fabrications when using breaker bars etc, regards Damian