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Glad it was helpful!

No problem. I'm not sure exactly which panels you are referring to, but generally cementing before stitching is normal. It allows the two/three layers of leather at the edge to be finished later by burnishing or edge painting, otherwise the layers will separate up to the stitching line and look less refined.

You are welcome!

Thanks! For this project I skived the bottom 3 edges of the t-pocket. However, you can also skive more of the panel if you want to reduce the overall thickness of the wallet.

You're welcome!

Thank you for watching.

The awl should only ever go through the center of a hole. A stitching awl is different to a scratch awl. Stitching awls are normally diamond profile, similar to a Japanese style pricking iron, and will preserve the slant of pricking irons.

@@TeranAtelier That clears up a lot! Thank you!

Thanks for watching!

Glad you found it helpful! Thanks for subscribing.

Thank you!

Thanks, good luck!

You are most welcome!

You are most welcome!

Hi. It depends on a few things like paint application thickness, viscosity, brand etc, but normally at least 30 minutes. Make sure the layer is properly dry before beginning to sand it.

Yes, it's interesting that you can change the styling of a product using just stitching spacing and thread thickness.

Thanks! Definitely use a brush with some thick bristles especially for viscous glue. In this video I was using solvent contact cement, but now I would only recommend water based contact cement, such as Renia Aquilim 315 which I use now, or Ecostick 1816b which is also popular.

@TeranAtelier I tried the eco flo water based, do you think it's as strong as the old school contact cement?

@samuelevinti I think it is more than strong enough for most applications. However water based contact cements generally do not bond well with metals.

Thanks! These are the steps for the finishing the edges on products which I use in all my videos.

@@TeranAtelier pelase can you help me.. Does i must use a base coat before pain, (examp Giardini, Fenice, Fiebings) or i can paint without base coat? Im little bit confused with fiebings product…

As I understand, Fiebing’s does not have a base coat product. A base coat is definitely a good thing and may save a few applications of later edge coat. However, you should still be able to achieve good results without base coat but it may take more layers.

@@TeranAtelier tnx a lot, Because i have bean little bit confused, i order Fiebings product and one of them its edge coat ( i think “coat” means like a base coat) Can you tell me one more think, is it better to not burnish the edge, for better aply paint, is it true if i make smooth top layer, the color not aply very vel..

Hi, A 0.55mm thickness Galaces thread would look good with 3.38mm. I suggest only getting a few colours and also experiment with some other brands as they all work a little different. Ritza Tiger thread 0.6mm is a must try if you haven't already.

@@TeranAtelier can you help me with flat thread. When i stitch, thred is twist, and looks realy uneven…

Thanks! There is a free pattern linked in the video description. You may need to slightly adjust the width around the buckles to match your requirements.

Glad you liked it!

My pleasure!

Great to hear!

Yes there is a link to the pattern in the video description. Also here: tinyurl.com/2z5nx3dz

Thanks!

Yes, both NanoCAD and AutoCAD have array functions. However, I tend not to use them for my design work as I like place my stitching holes carefully around corners and where the stitches span over perpendicular leather edges like down the side of card pockets.

Thanks! The solid brass hardware I get online from Aliexpress or similar online marketplaces. Buckleguy is another good source.

Yes 3.38mm is around standard for a watch strap. For finer looking stitches go for 3mm or 2.7mm spacing.

Thank you very much! Unfortunately, it's been a lot harder to find time to film and edit projects. Good luck with your projects!

Thanks! Going through some play testing now and its going great.

Hi, edge beveling is not required when edge painting which makes sense as the edge painting needs to be compatible with softer chrome tanned leathers. It is the paint itself that rounds the edge when it is shaped by the sanding steps. The edge creaser also helps to round off the edge too.

​@@TeranAtelierI want to first thank you for the video, by far the best video on the internet. since I'm new, I have a few questions and your answer would help me a lot, and I believe other followers too. * are there differences in colors, such as "ordinary colors" and acrylic colors, and do I have to use a primer before acrylic colors when it comes to chrome tan leather. * do you have any suggestions for sanding chrome tan leather because when I sand it with sandpaper it happens that the leather flakes more and more, also with the edge beveler I can't shorten the edges on chrome tan leather :( ... * how long should I heat the paint, is it enough until the paint starts to melt?... * can i end up using tokonol instead of wax? sorry for the long post, but it will be useful to have information in one place? thanks again

You are most welcome! Generally chrome tanned leather is only edge painted or the edges are turned (folded over). The edge painting steps for both vegetable tanned leather and chrome tanned leather are the same and the steps in this video can be followed.

Yes there is a hidden stitch method you can use to craft wallets and other projects. It involves slicing the leather in half a bit beyond the stitching line, stitching, and then gluing down the sliced open section to hide the stitching. This is similar to how stitching can be hidden on the sole of a leather shoe.

Would like you to guide some important steps for using programs

Thank you, it is very much appreciated. Which steps are you interested in?