Thank you Everyone for Watching! Make sure to check out my other leather build projects and pattern videos: th-cam.com/play/PLcyBfQSJi8VdNu0zYVangNNTrM27tUOLo.html
You know, I've watched hundred and hundred of videos about leathercrafting. I love clean projects and micrometric precision. And you are the best, you are in an other dimension. You really impressed me. You care about every little detail and operation, even the way you scratch the leather is surgeon level. Everything is so straight in this video, the way you show us the panels and recorded the video... I' m sure you struggle sometimes in your daily life with a such amount of perfectionism 😅 You have an industrial precision in your human hands, this is what 99% of leathercrafters don't have. I just watched your instagram and the consistency of your stitching is outstanding. It's a shame you don't have an online shop. You are brillant. Keep going, this is your way.
Thank you so much for your kind words and your support! I come from an engineering background so my work is very design orientated and planned out. I am really happy that this shows up in my leather work.
Wow, yours are some of the best tutorials I have ever seen for leather, so clear and precise, no time wasted but everything explained carefully and thoroughly, thank you so much!
salut , et bien des vidéos aussi clairement expliqués sont suffisamment rare sur YT pour vous en remercier et vous dire à quel point j'apprécie !! je laisse un like et de plus je m'abonne à la chaîne qui mérite grandement de continuer à grandir !! je vois assez de vidéo ou il manque systématiquement 2/3 infos pour que vous ne puissiez pas réaliser exactement le même projet que celui présenté et malheureusement bien trop souvent des chaîne française !! pas toute car j'en connais ou on peut même contacter l'artisans pour s'informer en cas de blocage alors que la majorités des chaîne étrangère (américaine) ne cache strictement rien à la confection d'un projet !!! merci pour votre travail force et respect
You should do a video on how to add the French stitching to your patterns. I haven’t seen anyone do that yet. That would be of great help! Your skills are another level.
You have to buy French stitching pricking Iron(angle) and the angle are different from different makers. 35-45 degrees and stitch the same way, but you have to be careful when you punch. I bought 20 teeth one, because of that.
@@TeranAtelier What do you do with your leftover paint mix? I cannot throw out even a drop. My plan is to use a very small jam jar for each custom mix.
@@pequodexpress I only mix about 3-4ml per project to minimize waste and use a fresh mix for best results. Unfortunately crafting will always produce waste like leather, thread and paint, you just have to do your best to minimize it.
Thanks! Yes it was burnished. As a general rule, if you have vegetable tanned leather that is not lined then you should burnish it to get a finished look.
Fantastic video. Great pace and explanations where needed. Subbed and I’d love to see your take on stitching, I know there are lots of vids on it but there is always room for more. Specifically on getting perfect back stitches every time. ETA… just looked and noticed you have one, thanks!
Awesome tutorial! Quick question, when you are punching both sides how do you keep the edges flush after stitching? Since the trimming happens before glueing everything together. Is sanding the only option in this case?
Thanks! All the alignment happens when you stick the two halves together with contact cement. Using needles placed in the corner stitching holes helps a lot with this alignment. After stitching the edge you will need to sand the edges to clean up any minor imperfections along the edge.
What size format are we supposed to be printing out your patterns on?!? I've waste so much paper and I can't get the correct size and measurements to print out. Please let me know if you have some time.. thank you very much
No problem! The pattern has been designed for A4 paper however it will still print on 'Letter' paper but with the top and bottom borders missing. Check that your printer is set to 'Actual Size' or '100% Scaling' and it should print to scale.
9:22 Am I thinking about this wrong? If you chisel in the stitching holes with a Diamond stitching iron from the face of both halves, then you sandwich those halves together, so the punched sides are facing away from each other, won't the diamond shapes be facing opposite directions? The way you have it laid out, the top hole of the orange will angle into the wallet towards the center, but the top hole of the white will angle away from the center towards the edge. So those holes can never really line up well?
The slanted shape of the holes on the two pieces will make an 'x' where they intersect. This is fine and your needle will pass through the center of the 'x'. When chiselling the holes, the hole centers must line up or it will not work. I have made a video showing the steps to this method th-cam.com/video/GxPb19fvFVU/w-d-xo.html
i'm a brand new hobbyist and i gotta say, this is probably the best tutorial video i've seen. first of all i love how detailed you are about each of your steps, and that you are clear about the materials you are using. i would really like to try to make a wallet like this for myself, where did you manage to get the Himalayan crocodile leather??? and how much do they usually cost for a piece?
Wow i just learned so much more i didn't know from this video alone; wax paper, putting in a bend and thining ur cash divider! Holy smokes. You are more than just a leathercrafter! Leathermaster! More like bro!!
I would use the smallest needle you have. John James 004 or another brand with an even smaller diameter needle would be better. Just hammer the linen thread ends flat to make them easier to pass through the eye of the needle.
very good thanks for sharing pattern .If you write down the thickness of the leather parts, I would be grateful because I looked 3 times and did not understand
I added a bit more detail in the description. For a wallet with many layers you generally have to use very thin leather 0.8-1.0mm otherwise it will become too bulky.
Question, how do you know where to cut the pocket edges at? Is that the solid line on your pattern? Do you cut to dotted outlines then trim to the solid lines? Thanks for helping a beginner, awesome video!
Thanks! In my designs the innermost dotted line is the stitching line, the middle continuous line is the final project outline, and the outside broken line is some extra 3mm trim allowance. Trimming after gluing adds an extra step but will give you straighter and cleaner edges to work with for edge finishing. It is optional but recommended.
Hello. really good job. The clips thing in which you keep the leather when you burnish it so its cliped straight, where is it from or how can one find a similar one? :D
Hi, thanks! The holder is a binder clip that I extended and wrapped in leather specifically for this purpose. I used a similar method to this other video th-cam.com/video/gkudfrkSyhE/w-d-xo.html
@@TeranAtelier Thank you very much! I like it the idea with the clip, I saw some other guy using one as well and i think its a good addition if you have to work a lot on edges, I am also a leatherworker and this idea helps you win a bit of time.
Hi, the center-bottom part is stitched before joining the internal and external halves together when you have already planned the positions of the stitching holes. This is an optional step and most crafters do not stitch across the bottom or remove the bottom 'square' from the inside panel and then are only required to stitch across the bottom of the exterior panel.
Thanks! Hard to give an exact temperature you will need to test with your creaser settings and application. When creasing veg tan use medium heat, for creasing crocodile high heat, for smoothing edge paint high heat and for smoothing wax low heat.
Большое Спасибо за видео и шаблоны! Сейчас заканчиваю такой кошелёк и возник вопрос, на шаблоне углы прямые, а на видео они закругленные, на каком этапе изготовления их лучше закруглить?
How reliable is tucking and gluing the thread? I see so many people just fuse the nylon thread. Not many that do it this way with the glue and linin thread. Is there a reason you chose that thread and method of locking it in?
Melting the ends thread only works with polyester/nylon thread and even then can end up looking poor if not well hidden. Linen thread does not melt so it it is locked in place with a combination of the waxing of thread, gluing the tips and tucking it back into the hole to hide the tip. This method works quite well and the thread will not come off if done properly.
You could try getting your leather supplier to skive for you, some provide this service free when buying online. Otherwise try some textiles like silk, nylon fabric or canvas but put a thin trim of leather on the top of the divider so it still has some strength.
@@TeranAtelier I found some Goat skin .65mm in black should look good inside the customized (light) saddle tan wallet. Thank you for the pattern and the stitching lessons. This is my second bi-fold wallet and its looking pretty good so far.
I purchased some Lin Chinois Cable 632 thread (very expensive), and I found it very difficult to work with. It’s not flat which made it extremely hard to pierce while attempting to thread the needle, and it gets knotted so easily. Do you have tips or tricks for working with this thread? Thanks.
It is a bit hard to get used to if you have previously only used polyester. The fact that is so solid and round is the best part of it as it gives very neat looking stitches. I recommend using a small needle like a John James #4 and before threading it through a needle, hammer down the end flat and it will easily slip through. Also make sure that you wax the thread before stitching and also midway when stitching long edges.
I think there are two issues with that. First is that the crease lines would be bit too close to the edge of the leather for my liking, an FN3 creaser might help for this. Second is the order, after stitching you should be hammering down your stitches which would flatten out any creasing you have done. I have seen someone use an adjustable edge creaser to make an extra crease line for stitching, that seems to be a good idea.
Beautiful! It is always pleasure to watch a raw animal hide being turned into a new elegant handy product! Being just curious, I have a question: Do you have any use for the rest of the skin? Maybe some small leather goods as a watch strap, but I think even a good watch strap requires a carefully selected piece of skin... Have a great time!
Thanks! I do my best to use as much of a skin as possible. At the time there was not any smaller crocodiles skins available so I had to settle with one larger than I needed. There are still quite a few projects left for this skin from the belly and the tail. I am also thinking a Himalayan watch strap would look good too.
@@TeranAtelier Thanks fot the explanation! I was just curious. It is still fascinating that such a brute monster as a crocodile can "give life" to such subtile and smooth things as wallets, watch straps etc. Your precious work is wonderful. And I like you are wearing a watch with your own leather strap, as we were talking in our last conversation! It is matching the leathercrafting perfectly. Nice to meet the stingray from your April video :) I am looking forward to your next projects!
@@lukasbejcek8841 Thanks! It was a great idea to wear a watch strap I made in the videos. I really love working with exotics especially crocodile as they are so unique and special.
@@TeranAtelier Yes it was! Weren’t you used to wear your watch strap before? I dont wonder you love your job. It is a pleasure just to watch it! I believe each animal is unique, each has a different pattern, each skin has a different format... So, really an adventure to think out what products you will make of each skin, isn’t it? But generally, can you make a (nice) watch strap from any part of a skin? Considering for example a crocodile and a stingray - is there a difference because of the pattern? Is it hard to choose where to cut the crocodile skin for the watch strap so that it has a nice structure?
@@lukasbejcek8841 Yes I started wearing my watch after. It is always fun to choose skins and imagine how each project might look. Any part of the skin could be used but they may have very different looks and would depend on personal preference. It is important that it is not too thick so you can still get any contouring to show up on the top surface otherwise it might be a bit too flat. For scaled skins like crocodile is really important to plan both sections so that they are mirrored and look balanced across the watch, you definitely want the the scales to be going in the same direction and be similar sized. For stingray you just need to match the size of nodules or if you want the 'diamond' part on both straps you need to use two skins which wastes a lot of leather.
Hi, it is crocodile leather on the exterior, orange Buttero leather interior on the interior and black Baranil French calfskin leather for the cash pocket divider.
@@TeranAtelier thanks for the answer, i wanted to buy the same but the thinnest i could find was 2,8mm. How did you manage to skive it down to 0,5 ? Because even this thin looks good and firm
The best way is to choose to have your leather skived by the supplier when purchasing. I get mine online from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply where they skive for free. Otherwise you can skive smaller panels of leather by yourself using skiving tools.
I wonder if you created this pattern with NanoCAD you demonstrated earlier ? Interesting to see how you created those picking iron stitching lines with precision. Are those stitching lines accurate or just decorative ?
Yes I do all my pattern making on CAD. The slanted stitching lines in the pattern are based off the real world dimensions and spacing from the pricking irons, it is actually quite straightforward with CAD software. I normally design my pattern dimensions based the type of chisel I use so the stitches always get spaced perfectly.
@@TeranAtelier Interesting.. this can make the T - pockets nicely stitched. Nice if you could show us how to do it with a video especially on a straight corner and a rounded corner in the near future. Thanks for sharing anyway.
@@TeranAtelier I tried doing something like this: calculating 1.25mm for the crease line, 1mm gap between crease and first stitch, plus similar calculation for the end of the run. It wasn't a reliable method. What worked better was to just manually mark out everything on the pattern and then adjust the pattern manually as needed, plus/minus 0.5mm to 1.5mm. I would love to see your method.
@@journeywithin6274 That's right. Making the t-pocket heights match the spacing of the stitching holes makes it very easy to punch stitching holes on them. Thanks for the suggestion on the corners.
@@pequodexpress I like to design all my patterns down to every stitch completely on CAD as I find it helps to eliminate any guesswork when crafting. If you are making patterns to use more than once I think it is worth the time to design it completely before crafting.
This is basically the one I am using at the moment www.aliexpress.com/item/4000670514011.html which is a generic soldering iron. I use it with a proper FN2 tip a.aliexpress.com/_mL3oT9J that I got separately which is connected using a short M5 thread bar. It does the job so I have not felt the need to upgrade yet. I recommend it if you are looking for a budget friendly option.
@@TeranAtelier Thank you friend, so purchasing these accessories will help me a lot because lately I've been working with chrome-based leather and exotic leather
@@TeranAtelier Hello Teran, I bought these hot irons with the FN2 tip that you recommended, I liked them, but for leather the chrome base didn't work well for me, at what temperature do you generally use your iron at maximum or not?
@@musichall190 I will try to do a long wallet in future. Yes the spacing I used in the pattern was for 3.38mm pricking irons, you can still use the pattern with a different spacing, you just have to ignore the 3.38mm stitches.
The lining is very thin around 1-2 oz and the interior is 2-3 oz, all the stacked leather pieces in a bifold need to be very thin to make the final wallet not overly bulky.
I find the best way is to leather from an online shop that will will skive it to the thickness you want with no extra cost. Other way is to skive it yourself which requires some equipment to purchase and maintain.
Do you have a link for your heated logo press? I have something very similar and am interested to see whether I can use a logo with mine, or if I'm limited to text.
You should be able to use logo stamps on all presses. If you have t-slot letter holder, you should be either able to put the stamp in the letter slot if small enough or can purchase a different holder suitable for larger stamps. I could not find my press any more but it is similar to this one and has a hole in the heating pad that you can bolt on your stamp. www.aliexpress.com/item/32767752810.html The press is very cheap and simple but it is doing the job, I will probably upgrade in future to something better.
@@TeranAtelier You've made me blow the dust off my Chinese press to see if I can make more progress than last time I tried. Does 190C seem like a good pressing temp? My tests say yes. I now need to create some kind of template so that I can line everything up properly for different projects. Any ideas?
@@pequodexpress I use around 100C for 2-3 seconds for stamping vegetable tan or it will burn, it may also depend on how long you apply your stamp for. 190C sounds high but it might be fine if you are using it for chrome tan. I found using one of those positioning sliders has helped a lot for alignment. I normally align it using my paper pattern then switch out the paper for leather.
@@TeranAtelier I really need your help. I need one for my portfolio. All online sources are very vague. I would appreciate someone who is thorough, such as yourself.
I’m sure I’ll get around to it in future. For now my advice would be to find a some cheap imitation leather gloves that fit and take it apart to see the pattern. You can also modify/improve it to your liking
![{leather craft]making a men's bifold wallet + PDF pattern](/img/n.gif)
Thank you Everyone for Watching!
Make sure to check out my other leather build projects and pattern videos:
th-cam.com/play/PLcyBfQSJi8VdNu0zYVangNNTrM27tUOLo.html
You know, I've watched hundred and hundred of videos about leathercrafting.
I love clean projects and micrometric precision.
And you are the best, you are in an other dimension. You really impressed me. You care about every little detail and operation, even the way you scratch the leather is surgeon level. Everything is so straight in this video, the way you show us the panels and recorded the video...
I' m sure you struggle sometimes in your daily life with a such amount of perfectionism 😅
You have an industrial precision in your human hands, this is what 99% of leathercrafters don't have.
I just watched your instagram and the consistency of your stitching is outstanding.
It's a shame you don't have an online shop.
You are brillant. Keep going, this is your way.
Thank you so much for your kind words and your support! I come from an engineering background so my work is very design orientated and planned out. I am really happy that this shows up in my leather work.
Wow, yours are some of the best tutorials I have ever seen for leather, so clear and precise, no time wasted but everything explained carefully and thoroughly, thank you so much!
Thanks! More to come!
Thank you for taking your time to explain each step and sharing the tips.
I am glad you found helpful!
I learned so much about leathermaking in just this one video. I cannot wait to start making leather goods 😊
Thanks! Good Luck!
Excellent. No matter how many videos I watch I learn something. I learned a lot here
That's great to hear!
salut , et bien des vidéos aussi clairement expliqués sont suffisamment rare sur YT pour vous en remercier et vous dire à quel point j'apprécie !!
je laisse un like et de plus je m'abonne à la chaîne qui mérite grandement de continuer à grandir !! je vois assez de vidéo ou il manque systématiquement 2/3 infos pour que vous ne puissiez pas réaliser exactement le même projet que celui présenté et malheureusement bien trop souvent des chaîne française !! pas toute car j'en connais ou on peut même contacter l'artisans pour s'informer en cas de blocage alors que la majorités des chaîne étrangère (américaine) ne cache strictement rien à la confection d'un projet !!! merci pour votre travail
force et respect
You did a great job. I will use this as a reference for my crocodile wallet Imma make for my dad.
Thanks! Good luck with your wallet!
Wonderfully and detailed explanation…well done. Thank you so much for sharing ❤️❤️❤️. This is a complete class for the construction of design
Thank you so much!
I need to work on my edge painting, that looks amazing
Thanks! It is definitely worth the time and effort.
Great work 👏 👍...love from india 🇮🇳
Thank you so much! 👍👍
You should do a video on how to add the French stitching to your patterns. I haven’t seen anyone do that yet. That would be of great help! Your skills are another level.
Thank you! I will show how to add stitching marks to patterns in my next CAD video.
You have to buy French stitching pricking Iron(angle) and the angle are different from different makers. 35-45 degrees and stitch the same way, but you have to be careful when you punch. I bought 20 teeth one, because of that.
Excellent details, clear directions and great camera work with perfect viewing, thank you for sharing.
Thank you again! Glad you are enjoying my videos.
New subscriber. I am very new to leather craft and I really appreciate the step by step instructions. Thank you so much.
You are very welcome!
Amazing work, only a little bit care with stitches I think and it would be simply perfect
Thanks! There's always room for improvement.
Your tutorials are outstanding and the patterns are just as great. Thank you!
Thank you so much!
A real professional job. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Very clean work beautiful
Thank you so much 😊
Wonderful tutorial. Beautiful wallet!
Thank you, for sharing!
Thank you so much 😊
Your videos, explanations and actual final result are simply superb!
Thanks for going to the trouble to make these videos-
They've helped me a lot-
Thanks! I am very glad you find them helpful.
Beautiful! I am yet to master punching both sides but it really does make it a lot cleaner.
Thanks! Keep trying until you get it right, most of the hard work is done once you have planned out all your stitching holes.
I need to mix some Uniters. Your use of the syringe for this is very clever.
Thanks! I think I saw someone else do it first. Mixing colours is really fun and a must when working with exotics.
@@TeranAtelier What do you do with your leftover paint mix? I cannot throw out even a drop. My plan is to use a very small jam jar for each custom mix.
@@pequodexpress I only mix about 3-4ml per project to minimize waste and use a fresh mix for best results. Unfortunately crafting will always produce waste like leather, thread and paint, you just have to do your best to minimize it.
Perfect instructional video and a beautiful wallet.
Thank you! Cheers!
Another great video! Did you burnish the flesh side of the calfskin as well, so it looks like having two grain sides?
Thanks! Yes it was burnished. As a general rule, if you have vegetable tanned leather that is not lined then you should burnish it to get a finished look.
Fantastic video. Great pace and explanations where needed. Subbed and I’d love to see your take on stitching, I know there are lots of vids on it but there is always room for more. Specifically on getting perfect back stitches every time. ETA… just looked and noticed you have one, thanks!
Thanks! I am glad you are finding my content helpful.
Great video, beautifully made wallet! Thank you.
Thank you very much!
Awesome tutorial!
Quick question, when you are punching both sides how do you keep the edges flush after stitching? Since the trimming happens before glueing everything together. Is sanding the only option in this case?
Thanks! All the alignment happens when you stick the two halves together with contact cement. Using needles placed in the corner stitching holes helps a lot with this alignment. After stitching the edge you will need to sand the edges to clean up any minor imperfections along the edge.
Very well done. Really precise and clean.
Thank you! Cheers!
Le Billetera más preciosa que vi jamas
Gracias
Gracias por apreciar mi trabajo.
bella. me encanto, que perfeccion
An excellent tutorial sir... nicely done.
Many thanks!!
Como haces para seguir cociendo en la parte de Enmedio y dejar ese espacio
Very well explain.. can you please make video for money clip wallet?
Thanks! I will add that to my list.
muy linda billetera 😊lo felicito por su trabajo 👏
Muchas gracias 👍👍
What size format are we supposed to be printing out your patterns on?!? I've waste so much paper and I can't get the correct size and measurements to print out. Please let me know if you have some time.. thank you very much
No problem! The pattern has been designed for A4 paper however it will still print on 'Letter' paper but with the top and bottom borders missing. Check that your printer is set to 'Actual Size' or '100% Scaling' and it should print to scale.
Very impressive
Thanks!
9:22 Am I thinking about this wrong? If you chisel in the stitching holes with a Diamond stitching iron from the face of both halves, then you sandwich those halves together, so the punched sides are facing away from each other, won't the diamond shapes be facing opposite directions? The way you have it laid out, the top hole of the orange will angle into the wallet towards the center, but the top hole of the white will angle away from the center towards the edge. So those holes can never really line up well?
The slanted shape of the holes on the two pieces will make an 'x' where they intersect. This is fine and your needle will pass through the center of the 'x'. When chiselling the holes, the hole centers must line up or it will not work. I have made a video showing the steps to this method th-cam.com/video/GxPb19fvFVU/w-d-xo.html
I was wondering the same thing
Bro can you make a video for phone wallet with intecciato bottega veneta like woven if I have time from work
Thanks for the suggestion!
Very Nice , and higth cuality...
Thank you!!
I've started using the barrel of that soldering iron for heat spreading, instead of the tip. I had been underestimating how much heat is needed.
Nice, I might try that. When I smooth edge paint I am always on maximum temperature setting using the creasing tip.
Thanks for pattern
Welcome 😊
i'm a brand new hobbyist and i gotta say, this is probably the best tutorial video i've seen. first of all i love how detailed you are about each of your steps, and that you are clear about the materials you are using. i would really like to try to make a wallet like this for myself, where did you manage to get the Himalayan crocodile leather??? and how much do they usually cost for a piece?
Himalaya is the name they gave to the color. It is Nile crocodile. That size is probably 800 - 1,000 dollars.
Hell yeah! Another Video from, one of the best in the game! Thanks brotha!
Wow i just learned so much more i didn't know from this video alone; wax paper, putting in a bend and thining ur cash divider! Holy smokes. You are more than just a leathercrafter! Leathermaster! More like bro!!
Thank you!! It is all little tricks that keep adding up. I haven't seen any crafted wallets with dividers so I wanted to try it out.
Excellent job what kind cinabrooks U use? How many mm?
Thanks! I am using the 3.38mm spacing.
@teran atelier Hello sir ! i want to know if i can use this pattern as a way to make wallets and sell them (i live in tunisia)
gracias y mucho exitos saludos desde el Perú bienvenido
quick Question what size needle would you use on the Fil au Chinois Lin Cable 632 linen thread (0.51mm) / 004 needle with 2.7mm irons
I would use the smallest needle you have. John James 004 or another brand with an even smaller diameter needle would be better. Just hammer the linen thread ends flat to make them easier to pass through the eye of the needle.
Hello teran atelier, love your videos what tip for the edge creaser do you use at 2:33 .Keep up the good work !
Hi, I always use an FN2 creaser tip with a 3mm stitching line offset from the edge.
That was awesome
You are a great help, thank you
Glad to hear that!
Absolutely well done 👏🏽👏🏽
Thank you! Cheers!
very good thanks for sharing pattern .If you write down the thickness of the leather parts, I would be grateful because I looked 3 times and did not understand
I added a bit more detail in the description. For a wallet with many layers you generally have to use very thin leather 0.8-1.0mm otherwise it will become too bulky.
A real beauty!
Great project. Liked and subscribed.👍
Awesome, thank you 👍
Question, how do you know where to cut the pocket edges at? Is that the solid line on your pattern? Do you cut to dotted outlines then trim to the solid lines? Thanks for helping a beginner, awesome video!
Thanks! In my designs the innermost dotted line is the stitching line, the middle continuous line is the final project outline, and the outside broken line is some extra 3mm trim allowance. Trimming after gluing adds an extra step but will give you straighter and cleaner edges to work with for edge finishing. It is optional but recommended.
Hello. really good job. The clips thing in which you keep the leather when you burnish it so its cliped straight, where is it from or how can one find a similar one? :D
Hi, thanks! The holder is a binder clip that I extended and wrapped in leather specifically for this purpose. I used a similar method to this other video th-cam.com/video/gkudfrkSyhE/w-d-xo.html
@@TeranAtelier Thank you very much! I like it the idea with the clip, I saw some other guy using one as well and i think its a good addition if you have to work a lot on edges, I am also a leatherworker and this idea helps you win a bit of time.
Trop, trop bien!!!!
What size stitching punch do you use? Great work👍inspiring me to start leather craft
I have a few different sizes but 3.38mm works best for wallets and other small projects.
its great,Thank you so much for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you love it
Great Video Teran!!
Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed it.
Another Aussie crafter
Yes! We get to use all the kangaroo leather.
@@TeranAtelier where are you located mate roughly? (If you want to tell that is)
@@psidhu1979 I'm from Sydney but now I am now staying in Bangkok. They have a lot of good exotic leathers available there.
@@TeranAtelier ah that explains the croc leather lol. I was wondering how you could get that in Australia
@@psidhu1979 I have not tried getting hold of exotics in Australia (only kangaroo if that counts). How hard is it for crocodile?
Awesome job
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the video, it is very informative and beginner friendly. May I know what size pricking iron are you using for the wallet?
Thanks! They are 3.38mm Sinabroks pricking irons.
Hi! Thanks so much for this. Question: How (and when) do you stitch that small center section of the exterior?
Hi, the center-bottom part is stitched before joining the internal and external halves together when you have already planned the positions of the stitching holes. This is an optional step and most crafters do not stitch across the bottom or remove the bottom 'square' from the inside panel and then are only required to stitch across the bottom of the exterior panel.
Great video. Approximately what temperature is your edge creaser set to?
Thanks! Hard to give an exact temperature you will need to test with your creaser settings and application. When creasing veg tan use medium heat, for creasing crocodile high heat, for smoothing edge paint high heat and for smoothing wax low heat.
Большое Спасибо за видео и шаблоны! Сейчас заканчиваю такой кошелёк и возник вопрос, на шаблоне углы прямые, а на видео они закругленные, на каком этапе изготовления их лучше закруглить?
You are very welcome! I round the corners after stitching and creasing. After that is burnishing or edge painting.
How reliable is tucking and gluing the thread? I see so many people just fuse the nylon thread. Not many that do it this way with the glue and linin thread. Is there a reason you chose that thread and method of locking it in?
Melting the ends thread only works with polyester/nylon thread and even then can end up looking poor if not well hidden. Linen thread does not melt so it it is locked in place with a combination of the waxing of thread, gluing the tips and tucking it back into the hole to hide the tip. This method works quite well and the thread will not come off if done properly.
easy with good detail 👍🏻
Thanks 😀
I need one my friend
Nice work mate
Cheers!
Ok im stuck i dont have a skiving machine to do the cash pocket divider to .5 mm. Where to buy it or could i use a fabric like silk ribbon.?
You could try getting your leather supplier to skive for you, some provide this service free when buying online. Otherwise try some textiles like silk, nylon fabric or canvas but put a thin trim of leather on the top of the divider so it still has some strength.
@@TeranAtelier I found some Goat skin .65mm in black should look good inside the customized (light) saddle tan wallet. Thank you for the pattern and the stitching lessons. This is my second bi-fold wallet and its looking pretty good so far.
@@minnesotahawk4090 You are most welcome! That goat skin sounds perfect.
Top notch work
Thank you!
Bravo!!!
Great job
Cheers!
I purchased some Lin Chinois Cable 632 thread (very expensive), and I found it very difficult to work with. It’s not flat which made it extremely hard to pierce while attempting to thread the needle, and it gets knotted so easily. Do you have tips or tricks for working with this thread? Thanks.
It is a bit hard to get used to if you have previously only used polyester. The fact that is so solid and round is the best part of it as it gives very neat looking stitches. I recommend using a small needle like a John James #4 and before threading it through a needle, hammer down the end flat and it will easily slip through. Also make sure that you wax the thread before stitching and also midway when stitching long edges.
very nice. how long did it take you to do it in all?
Thanks! A bifold like this normally takes 8-10 hours and double that if you are filming the process.
I would believe if Hérmes made it.
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I am so glad that you enjoy my videos!
What are your thoughts on using the the heated crease line for your stitching guide instead of using the wing dividers?
I think there are two issues with that. First is that the crease lines would be bit too close to the edge of the leather for my liking, an FN3 creaser might help for this. Second is the order, after stitching you should be hammering down your stitches which would flatten out any creasing you have done. I have seen someone use an adjustable edge creaser to make an extra crease line for stitching, that seems to be a good idea.
@@TeranAtelier Interesting process decisions. Thanks for the reply.
@@pequodexpress And thank you for the interesting questions!
Beautiful! It is always pleasure to watch a raw animal hide being turned into a new elegant handy product! Being just curious, I have a question: Do you have any use for the rest of the skin? Maybe some small leather goods as a watch strap, but I think even a good watch strap requires a carefully selected piece of skin... Have a great time!
Thanks! I do my best to use as much of a skin as possible. At the time there was not any smaller crocodiles skins available so I had to settle with one larger than I needed. There are still quite a few projects left for this skin from the belly and the tail. I am also thinking a Himalayan watch strap would look good too.
@@TeranAtelier Thanks fot the explanation! I was just curious. It is still fascinating that such a brute monster as a crocodile can "give life" to such subtile and smooth things as wallets, watch straps etc. Your precious work is wonderful. And I like you are wearing a watch with your own leather strap, as we were talking in our last conversation! It is matching the leathercrafting perfectly. Nice to meet the stingray from your April video :) I am looking forward to your next projects!
@@lukasbejcek8841 Thanks! It was a great idea to wear a watch strap I made in the videos. I really love working with exotics especially crocodile as they are so unique and special.
@@TeranAtelier Yes it was! Weren’t you used to wear your watch strap before? I dont wonder you love your job. It is a pleasure just to watch it! I believe each animal is unique, each has a different pattern, each skin has a different format... So, really an adventure to think out what products you will make of each skin, isn’t it? But generally, can you make a (nice) watch strap from any part of a skin? Considering for example a crocodile and a stingray - is there a difference because of the pattern? Is it hard to choose where to cut the crocodile skin for the watch strap so that it has a nice structure?
@@lukasbejcek8841 Yes I started wearing my watch after. It is always fun to choose skins and imagine how each project might look. Any part of the skin could be used but they may have very different looks and would depend on personal preference. It is important that it is not too thick so you can still get any contouring to show up on the top surface otherwise it might be a bit too flat. For scaled skins like crocodile is really important to plan both sections so that they are mirrored and look balanced across the watch, you definitely want the the scales to be going in the same direction and be similar sized. For stingray you just need to match the size of nodules or if you want the 'diamond' part on both straps you need to use two skins which wastes a lot of leather.
very nice
Thanks!
Excelente trabajo y muy bien explicado, mi agradecimiento y felicitaciones!!!
Gracias por su apoyo, es un placer que le guste mi trabajo
very inspiring
Thanks!
Hi, where do you buy your Croc leather?
Hi, I got it from a shop in Bangkok. facebook.com/thaiandswat
Hello mate, the orange leather looks good what leather is it?
Hi, it is crocodile leather on the exterior, orange Buttero leather interior on the interior and black Baranil French calfskin leather for the cash pocket divider.
@@TeranAtelier thanks for the answer, i wanted to buy the same but the thinnest i could find was 2,8mm. How did you manage to skive it down to 0,5 ? Because even this thin looks good and firm
The best way is to choose to have your leather skived by the supplier when purchasing. I get mine online from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply where they skive for free. Otherwise you can skive smaller panels of leather by yourself using skiving tools.
How do you determine what’s excess and what’s not?
Having excess leather is planned from the start of the project and additional material (3mm in my patterns) is added to the pattern pieces.
What size edge creaser do you use in this video?
I use an FN2 edge creaser, it is the most popular one.
I wonder if you created this pattern with NanoCAD you demonstrated earlier ? Interesting to see how you created those picking iron stitching lines with precision. Are those stitching lines accurate or just decorative ?
Yes I do all my pattern making on CAD. The slanted stitching lines in the pattern are based off the real world dimensions and spacing from the pricking irons, it is actually quite straightforward with CAD software. I normally design my pattern dimensions based the type of chisel I use so the stitches always get spaced perfectly.
@@TeranAtelier Interesting.. this can make the T - pockets nicely stitched. Nice if you could show us how to do it with a video especially on a straight corner and a rounded corner in the near future. Thanks for sharing anyway.
@@TeranAtelier I tried doing something like this: calculating 1.25mm for the crease line, 1mm gap between crease and first stitch, plus similar calculation for the end of the run. It wasn't a reliable method. What worked better was to just manually mark out everything on the pattern and then adjust the pattern manually as needed, plus/minus 0.5mm to 1.5mm. I would love to see your method.
@@journeywithin6274 That's right. Making the t-pocket heights match the spacing of the stitching holes makes it very easy to punch stitching holes on them. Thanks for the suggestion on the corners.
@@pequodexpress I like to design all my patterns down to every stitch completely on CAD as I find it helps to eliminate any guesswork when crafting. If you are making patterns to use more than once I think it is worth the time to design it completely before crafting.
Hi, where could I buy an electric creaser like yours?
The creaser I am using is a cheap soldering iron modified for leatherwork. You can find this type of product on AliExpress.
@@TeranAtelier I would like to buy exactly the same as yours since I see in the video that it works really well, what model would yours be?
This is basically the one I am using at the moment www.aliexpress.com/item/4000670514011.html which is a generic soldering iron. I use it with a proper FN2 tip a.aliexpress.com/_mL3oT9J that I got separately which is connected using a short M5 thread bar. It does the job so I have not felt the need to upgrade yet. I recommend it if you are looking for a budget friendly option.
@@TeranAtelier Thank you friend, so purchasing these accessories will help me a lot because lately I've been working with chrome-based leather and exotic leather
@@TeranAtelier Hello Teran, I bought these hot irons with the FN2 tip that you recommended, I liked them, but for leather the chrome base didn't work well for me, at what temperature do you generally use your iron at maximum or not?
Nice work 👍🏻👌🏻 where u buy this leathers?
Thanks! I got the Buttero and calfskin from Rocky Mountain Leather and the crocodile from Thai & Swat Leather.
@@TeranAtelier thank, can u add long wallet video with pdf files ? ❤️ and one question: what mm need punches, 3.38? this hole distance?
@@musichall190 I will try to do a long wallet in future. Yes the spacing I used in the pattern was for 3.38mm pricking irons, you can still use the pattern with a different spacing, you just have to ignore the 3.38mm stitches.
Cool can you make me a blue alligator skin men wallet. .?
Sorry I do not accept commissions anymore.
I'm very new to leather work. I was wondering how many ounces the pieces are? Interior and lining?
The lining is very thin around 1-2 oz and the interior is 2-3 oz, all the stacked leather pieces in a bifold need to be very thin to make the final wallet not overly bulky.
How thick is the Himalayan crocodile leather??
The skin I have is around 1-1.5mm thick. Crocodile can be skived to make it thinner but the process is more difficult than your average leather.
where do you get leather that thin
I find the best way is to leather from an online shop that will will skive it to the thickness you want with no extra cost. Other way is to skive it yourself which requires some equipment to purchase and maintain.
Do you have a link for your heated logo press? I have something very similar and am interested to see whether I can use a logo with mine, or if I'm limited to text.
You should be able to use logo stamps on all presses. If you have t-slot letter holder, you should be either able to put the stamp in the letter slot if small enough or can purchase a different holder suitable for larger stamps. I could not find my press any more but it is similar to this one and has a hole in the heating pad that you can bolt on your stamp. www.aliexpress.com/item/32767752810.html The press is very cheap and simple but it is doing the job, I will probably upgrade in future to something better.
@@TeranAtelier You've made me blow the dust off my Chinese press to see if I can make more progress than last time I tried. Does 190C seem like a good pressing temp? My tests say yes. I now need to create some kind of template so that I can line everything up properly for different projects. Any ideas?
@@pequodexpress I use around 100C for 2-3 seconds for stamping vegetable tan or it will burn, it may also depend on how long you apply your stamp for. 190C sounds high but it might be fine if you are using it for chrome tan. I found using one of those positioning sliders has helped a lot for alignment. I normally align it using my paper pattern then switch out the paper for leather.
Hello teran. What size (mm) beveler do you use for edge?
Hi, I use a #1 beveler which is the smallest size. It only rounds off the corner a little bit.
@@TeranAtelier thank for ur reply ❤
Please do tutorial and pattern for leather gloves
Thanks for the suggestion! That would make an interesting project.
@@TeranAtelier I really need your help. I need one for my portfolio. All online sources are very vague. I would appreciate someone who is thorough, such as yourself.
I’m sure I’ll get around to it in future. For now my advice would be to find a some cheap imitation leather gloves that fit and take it apart to see the pattern. You can also modify/improve it to your liking
Do you sell your wallets ?
Sorry, I do not sell any products or materials.