Thank you for remaking this video. Showing the pricks from your iron making an x shape really helped me understand this method. In the first video, I was a little confused when my pricks were not all in the same direction.
Thank you so much for this video. I am constantly getting the ragged holes on the back of my work. Could you do the same video /technique but with curves ( inward and outward).? Thank you again
You are most welcome! The method is very much the same with curves. You will need to take extra care to to ensure the holes will line up to each other as you do not have the point edge in a square corner to help reference the positions. I often use a template with marked in stitching holes to get the holes on the front and back aligning correctly.
Does this method also work for traditional round thread? Can't wait for the video where you make the handbag! Can you consider doing tutorials for other advanced techniques, like rolled handles, the different types of gussets, box stitching
Thank you for the suggestions. Yes the method will works for all thread types, the wallet in the video uses twisted threads. The handbag is big and long project. I will probably break it into several videos like the doing the rolled handles as a tutorial. Gussets are another topic I want to cover soon.
This is the first time I have seen a video explain the reason for looping the thread around the needle. Thank you! Now it all makes sense. I use slanted pricking irons yet still get straight lines.
Thank you for this video it really helped. Can you please tell me which pricking irons you are using and what size, I really liked the way your stitching came out. I’m making a trifold wallet and not sure what size pricking irons to use. I was told to use a 3mm Japanese pricking iron with .4mm or .6mm thread was good to use on wallets but the stitching is so small to me but this may be correct I don’t know so, I tried a 4.5 mm Japanese pricking iron with .8mm thread because the store was sold out of the 4mm pricking irons and this looks like it might be to large for a wallet, I’m struggling and need advice if you could help me. Thank you so much for your help and advice, keep up the great work, love your videos.
3mm is quite small and more suited to watch straps or fine stitching on wallets. 4mm would be the maximum for a wallet and I would recommend either 3.38mm or 3.75mm for wallets and other small items. 4-5mm would be more suitable for a large bag. The thread needs to match the stitching spacing and I would always recommend stitching a small sample of your leather to see how well it will match. For wallets, 0.45-0.6mm is would be best.
@@TeranAtelier, thank you for your help I really appreciate it. Can I ask if you would back stitch when saddle stitching or just burn the ends? My stitches look really good going forward so far till I try to back stitch at the end then, I’m not sure how to do it so the stitches don’t look as good as the others? I just want to make sure the wallet stitching is secure at the pressure points where the credit cards will be used. Thanks again for helping me
Thanks! Needle size is important, you want to be using the smallest size that works with your thread so it is easier to stitch and doesn't open up the stitching holes as much. I am using John James - Saddlers Harness Needles Size 4 (004) with thread sizes 0.45-0.6mm.
I have problem with punching through the leather at once and get them straight without deviation on the other side using French style pricking iron. Do you think using a Japanese style like crimson iron or chisel could be easier to align better on the back than a French pricking iron ?
I do not think it would change much, the key is keep the irons perpendicular while hammering. Consider multiple lighter and controlled hammering rather that only a few hard hits to better keep the irons stable and make sure your irons are polished so they can slide easier through the leather. An alternative to hammering is to install your irons into a arbor press which will keep your irons perfectly perpendicular and you will be able to quietly press in your stitching holes.
I've tried this before without success. I will have to try your exact method with front casting? How would you compare this method to using both regular and reverse chisels?
For this type of applications reverse chisels would not help much and just over complicate things. Your normal chisel should be able to completely penetrate the glued leather pieces or you can chisel both pieces before gluing together like the method. The stitching method is just standard saddle stitching but with an extra step of angling the threads during tensioning to get it to sit in the correct part of the hole. Back casting will definitely work but you would be starting with your left needle on the furthest hole from you, basically everything mirrored. Back casting is used when you need to use an awl when stitching and need to hold the awl with your right hand, so the left needle is passed through the hole first.
@@TeranAtelier I thought the idea of back casting was just to get good slants on the back side. I am still trying to compare back casting and front casting to see which one I like better.
Casting helps both sides slant, if you don't cast only one side will look good depending on needle order. I think both front or back casting can work as all it is doing is forcing one of the threads over the other. When you tension the stitch, the cast or knot gets pushed into the middle of hole so it shouldn't matter which side it originated from.
@@TeranAtelier More and more, I am coming around to your method of stitching: stitching away from the body and front casting. It seems to lead to more consistent stitching, and I'm trying to wonder why. All I can come up with is that the knot situates itself more consistently by entering where the iron entered the leather. I'll have to compare this to using a reverse iron and backcasting.
Very well explained, but I need clarification on this, Since stitching hole as you've said make an x,so when stitching, both left and right needle pass through the middle? And not on the upper and lower part of the slant hole?
Thanks! The needle gets passed through the centers of the hole but when you tension your threads after, you angle them towards the edges of the holes so they sit in the correct place at the surface of the leather.
Thank you Everyone for Watching!
Make sure to check out my other leather stitching videos:
th-cam.com/play/PLcyBfQSJi8Vf1JkzfbjsKhtlTRgsEIAWc.html
Thank you for remaking this video. Showing the pricks from your iron making an x shape really helped me understand this method. In the first video, I was a little confused when my pricks were not all in the same direction.
You are welcome! It is a bit tricky to get the holes lining up right but when they do it gives great results.
Thank you. This is my best way to do that specially for thick projects.
You are welcome!
👍🏻👏🏻 Do more wallets with free pdf files, you make video so good 👍🏻
Thanks! I have a new wallet video coming soon.
Well explained, thank you very much🤗
Glad it was helpful 😀
an excellent lesson
Thanks!
Thanks Master, súper beautiful work 🤯🙏✨👌🏽
Thank you again!
Thank you so much for this.
You are very welcome!
Thank you so much for this video.
I am constantly getting the ragged holes on the back of my work.
Could you do the same video /technique but with curves ( inward and outward).?
Thank you again
You are most welcome! The method is very much the same with curves. You will need to take extra care to to ensure the holes will line up to each other as you do not have the point edge in a square corner to help reference the positions. I often use a template with marked in stitching holes to get the holes on the front and back aligning correctly.
Thank you so much I can’t wait to try this. Can you make a video about backstitching?
Thank you for the suggestion. I think I will cover that in the next stitching video.
Does this method also work for traditional round thread? Can't wait for the video where you make the handbag! Can you consider doing tutorials for other advanced techniques, like rolled handles, the different types of gussets, box stitching
Thank you for the suggestions. Yes the method will works for all thread types, the wallet in the video uses twisted threads. The handbag is big and long project. I will probably break it into several videos like the doing the rolled handles as a tutorial. Gussets are another topic I want to cover soon.
tyfor info very good
You are most welcome!
This is the first time I have seen a video explain the reason for looping the thread around the needle. Thank you! Now it all makes sense. I use slanted pricking irons yet still get straight lines.
Cheers!
Thank you for this video it really helped. Can you please tell me which pricking irons you are using and what size, I really liked the way your stitching came out. I’m making a trifold wallet and not sure what size pricking irons to use. I was told to use a 3mm Japanese pricking iron with .4mm or .6mm thread was good to use on wallets but the stitching is so small to me but this may be correct I don’t know so, I tried a 4.5 mm Japanese pricking iron with .8mm thread because the store was sold out of the 4mm pricking irons and this looks like it might be to large for a wallet, I’m struggling and need advice if you could help me. Thank you so much for your help and advice, keep up the great work, love your videos.
3mm is quite small and more suited to watch straps or fine stitching on wallets. 4mm would be the maximum for a wallet and I would recommend either 3.38mm or 3.75mm for wallets and other small items. 4-5mm would be more suitable for a large bag. The thread needs to match the stitching spacing and I would always recommend stitching a small sample of your leather to see how well it will match. For wallets, 0.45-0.6mm is would be best.
@@TeranAtelier, thank you for your help I really appreciate it. Can I ask if you would back stitch when saddle stitching or just burn the ends? My stitches look really good going forward so far till I try to back stitch at the end then, I’m not sure how to do it so the stitches don’t look as good as the others? I just want to make sure the wallet stitching is secure at the pressure points where the credit cards will be used. Thanks again for helping me
@@TeranAtelier Thanks I'm about to buy a chisel kit for my wallets and your answer was enough for me to know which one to buy.
Great video. Does the size of your needle make a difference? If so, what was the size?
Thanks! Needle size is important, you want to be using the smallest size that works with your thread so it is easier to stitch and doesn't open up the stitching holes as much. I am using John James - Saddlers Harness Needles Size 4 (004) with thread sizes 0.45-0.6mm.
I have problem with punching through the leather at once and get them straight without deviation on the other side using French style pricking iron. Do you think using a Japanese style like crimson iron or chisel could be easier to align better on the back than a French pricking iron ?
I do not think it would change much, the key is keep the irons perpendicular while hammering. Consider multiple lighter and controlled hammering rather that only a few hard hits to better keep the irons stable and make sure your irons are polished so they can slide easier through the leather. An alternative to hammering is to install your irons into a arbor press which will keep your irons perfectly perpendicular and you will be able to quietly press in your stitching holes.
@@TeranAtelier Thanks for the tips !
I've tried this before without success. I will have to try your exact method with front casting? How would you compare this method to using both regular and reverse chisels?
For this type of applications reverse chisels would not help much and just over complicate things. Your normal chisel should be able to completely penetrate the glued leather pieces or you can chisel both pieces before gluing together like the method. The stitching method is just standard saddle stitching but with an extra step of angling the threads during tensioning to get it to sit in the correct part of the hole. Back casting will definitely work but you would be starting with your left needle on the furthest hole from you, basically everything mirrored. Back casting is used when you need to use an awl when stitching and need to hold the awl with your right hand, so the left needle is passed through the hole first.
@@TeranAtelier I thought the idea of back casting was just to get good slants on the back side. I am still trying to compare back casting and front casting to see which one I like better.
Casting helps both sides slant, if you don't cast only one side will look good depending on needle order. I think both front or back casting can work as all it is doing is forcing one of the threads over the other. When you tension the stitch, the cast or knot gets pushed into the middle of hole so it shouldn't matter which side it originated from.
@@TeranAtelier More and more, I am coming around to your method of stitching: stitching away from the body and front casting. It seems to lead to more consistent stitching, and I'm trying to wonder why. All I can come up with is that the knot situates itself more consistently by entering where the iron entered the leather. I'll have to compare this to using a reverse iron and backcasting.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Very well explained, but I need clarification on this, Since stitching hole as you've said make an x,so when stitching, both left and right needle pass through the middle? And not on the upper and lower part of the slant hole?
Thanks! The needle gets passed through the centers of the hole but when you tension your threads after, you angle them towards the edges of the holes so they sit in the correct place at the surface of the leather.
@@TeranAtelier now I see. Very nice and detailed tutorial. Will try this one. Thank you. And continue making videos. We are learning a lot.
😊👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
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