Shoemaking vs Fine Leather Work: Tools and Materials

A fine leather worker’s perspective of shoemaking tools and materials
In this video I introduce shoemaking tools and materials and how they differ from fine leather work. I show the most important shoemaking tools and the different types of leathers that are used to make a single pair of boots. I also give my thoughts on shoemaking as a craft and how it differs from the fine leather work that I normally do on this channel.
00:00 - Introduction
00:39 - Shoemaking Tools
02:02 - Leather Materials
03:21 - Non-Leather Materials
04:19 - Difference with Fine Leather Work
05:14 - Final Thoughts
Featured Shoemaking Tools:
- Lasting pliers
- Shank pullers
- Glazing iron
- Edge iron
- Fudge wheel
- Tack lifter
- Clicker’s knife
Featured Leather Materials:
- Exterior upper leather
- Upper leather lining
- Welt and rand leather
- Insole leather
- Toe puff and heel counter leather
- Outsole leather
- Heel stack leather
Featured Non-Leather Materials:
- Steel shanks
- Craft paste
- Shoemakers wax
- Lasting tacks and nails
- Rubber soles
- Cork filler
- Contact cement
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[@thoyibtajir]

This what i looking. Making shoes boot. I hope you release next video soon. Thank you. Nice job 👍

[@TeranAtelier]

Thanks! I will start working on them soon.

[@kemitchell]

There are often more kinds of leather in shoes than in bags or small goods, but several of the kinds you show often come from different parts of the same kind of tanned hide. For example, midsoles and heel lifts often come from the same hides. Stiffeners may also come from the bellies or other thinner parts of those same hides, or from upper leather hides.
Makers will also choose which parts of hides from which to cut different upper pieces very carefully, considering not just thickness and blemishes but also grain direction and orientation of the pieces, so they stretch in the right directions. With such large pieces to cut, and two at a time, using whole hides becomes more important, even when using precut components like the "bottom stuff" you demonstrated.

[@BedengCamaruleather]

thank you I'm waiting for the next video

[@TeranAtelier]

I'm glad to hear that! Hopefully coming soon.

[@mortenmidtgaard4801]

Looking so much forward to the coming videos! Keep up the good work.

[@TeranAtelier]

Thanks! Will do!

[@robpaultog]

Hi, Just wanted to say thankyou for some great videos.... have pretty much watched the lot today and learnt a few things which is great. Thanks again and i'll look forward to some more showing up in my sub feed.

[@TeranAtelier]

Thank you for the support! I have new video coming soon.

[@farhadfadayi7389]

intresting. I making bag actually but very intresting video to see for tools for shoemaking. thanks for great vide. the first one and second tools are similare in bag making but with little bit different shape.

[@TeranAtelier]

Thanks! Shoemaking is one area I really want to try, but it is very difficult to get started.

[@farhadfadayi7389]

@@TeranAtelier
it is true. the shoemaking has more difficulties than bag. my younger brother is shoemaker.
I love bags because you can also start it with almost bare hands. you only need a scissor, thread and needle. that is all you need to start make a bag. and I love had stitching sooo much.
succes with your plans for sheamaking. hope you can make it.

[@latetodagame1892]

This is a passive aggressive attack on Rose Anvil!

[@TeranAtelier]

Haha maybe!

[@stevezytveld6585]

Thank you, this is wonderful information.
Just out of curiosity, have you heard of Nicole Rudolf. She's a YT content creator who focuses on making historical footwear and clothing. She got her start at Colonial Williamsburg and later went on to work for the American Duchess shoe company. Maybe you two could do a collaboration?
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

[@TeranAtelier]

Thanks that is an interesting idea. I still have a bit more to progress to make on own my shoemaking skills before that.

[@imti7593]

Hi, could you please explain the different types of leather? Please 🙏

[@TeranAtelier]

On a basic level you want to have thick, durable vegetable tanned leathers on the base of a shoe and for the upper section you want to have softer, thinner, flexible leathers that will mold well around the shoe last and be comfortable.

[@imti7593]

@@TeranAtelier what is the difference between upper and inner lining?

[@TeranAtelier]

@@imti7593 The upper is what will be seen most so a nicer looking leather that can be polished/maintained easily is chosen, It also needs to be more durable. The lining leather should be soft and breathable so the highly polished leathers normally used on the upper wouldn't work well.