WATER vs Solvent Contact Cement (Aquilim 315)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
- The best type of contact cement for leathercraft.
In this video I compare and contrast water based contact cement (Aquilim 315) and solvent based contact cement (Bondtech 430). I test the strength of each type of contact cement as well as perform a water resistance test on the water based contact cement. I also talk about Fiebing’s Leathercraft Cement and where it fits in as a glue in leathercraft.
Featured and Mentioned Contact Cements and Glue (Amazon US Paid Links):
- Renia Aquilim 315 water based contact cement amzn.to/3NRKyT3
- Bondtech 430 solvent based contact cement
- Fiebing’s Leathercraft Cement amzn.to/3M8vHCv
- Intercom Ecostick 1816B water based contact cement
- Weldwood Original solvent based contact cement amzn.to/3x6HrB1
- Barge Infinity solvent based contact cement amzn.to/3zdf8T6
*As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
00:00 - Introduction
00:32 - Fiebing's Leathercraft Cement
01:10 - Differences between Contact Cements
02:16 - How to Use Contact Cement
02:45 - Bond Strength Testing
03:36 - Water Resistance Testing
04:20 - Wrap Up
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Thank you! Love it when a presenter answers questions in viewers' minds and goes the extra mile to be detailed. Really efficient prez style!
Glad it was helpful!
As always, excellent content, many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
It's such a pity that Teran Atelier stopped updating this channel. He absolutely deserves more views! I have seen this happens a lot on TH-cam that creators with great content did not receive adequate attention. What a shame! This is one of the best leather craft channels here. I really hope you can come back and post more videos in future. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your support! I do still intend to make videos but at a slower pace than previously.
There is another, very important difference between water based and solvent based adhesives. Solvent based adhesives clean up completely from the surface of untreated leather. A stray glob or mark of solvent base cement will come off with a piece of crepe. It does not leave any residue. Water based contact cement leaves nasty little marks if you accidentally mark the surface. It will not clean up cleanly. One way to ease that problem is to apply leather balm prior to gluing with water based cement. This seems to block the staining ability.
About cleaning up stray glue, then I find different results depending on the type of leather and what type of dye it has but a coating of leather balm will definitely help either type.
Oh thanks for this feedback. I just cleaned my spatulas with the crepe and they look like new again. But what is the best solutions to clean my brushes for the water based glue? I use Aquilim 315 as well, but I always use a brush for this glue. Do I just leave them in a pot of water for a night over?
@@nestisi With Aquilim it is annoying to clean brushes as it is very gummy. The instructions say to clean with water which works when it is still wet but soaking would not help much if it is already dry. Keeping the brushes permanently 'wet' may help. I have found the best way to use it is to apply it to leather using a squeeze bottle and then spread it with an applicator which is easy to clean after.
@@TeranAtelier Thank you for the tip of a squeeze bottle ;)
Good info... thanks man!
Cheers!
Good stuff. - thanks!
Thanks!
recently started using Aquilim instead of barge, and I'm never going back. it holds just as well and doesn't give off a headache inducing odor
Great decision. It is not worth it to risk your heath.
great video. love that. thanks. am new in leather World and has to learn much more yet. that is why am still busy to orientate between where I've to use water based glue and where solvent contact cement. I've not reach that point yet but I guess it will comes with experience. my biggest problem is I don't like normal water based glue, but recent I've found "Aquilim 315" and hope it will gives me what I need.
It is best not to use solvent contact cement if possible. It is risky for your health.
@@TeranAtelier it is true, agree. thanks for tip. sure I'll do it
Hi! Great video :) Just to clear: this "water-based" glue (neoprene, pur) is a dispersion, where water is not a solvent. When you want to apply dispersion glues with (round) brush: take an insulation tape and wrap it around under the tip of the brush (0,5 cm-1cm) tightly, til the grip. It won't let the glue dry out between the bristles and destroy it after a few usings. Always keep the used brush in the liquid, don't let the glue dry out in your brush after applying. (cause you can't dissolve it in water.....)
Thank you for clarifying, it is an important distinction. I have always disliked using brushes with Aquilim but I will give your tip a try.
Could you rinse the brush in water immediately after use ?
@@creativecritter6546 Yes, but better keeping it in the dispersion.
This is really useful info. Not the brush part necessarily, the clarification. I REALLY couldn't wrap my mind around this being water soluble. Cuz it's clearly not lol.
thanks for tip
The solvent chemistry will be more resistant, for sure. It's a matter of choice. I hope that the aquilium also lasts longer in the container than the solvent. When mine arrives from France, I'll be back.
I think it has advantages and disadvantages. In works where there are seams, the use of water-based glue facilitates the work, without a bad smell or bad for the cells of the body, but if necessary high
I am mostly using Aquilim now and keep some solvent contact cement for special jobs only. It is not really about the smell, it is more about the damage that it is doing to your health.
Where do you purchase the bondtech 430? I can’t find a decent contact cement in the US. Everything is always very stringy and thick, even after thinning it out. It seems like all the contact cements I see people in Japan or Korea use seem to be thinner and much easier to spread, but can’t seem to get any in the US.
Bondtech was a brand I found in Thailand but it is not better or worse than other brands of contact cement. You can thin out your contact cement by purchasing the paired thinner than some brands offer. However, I would recommend finding some water based contact cement as just as good to work with, without any of the heath hazards.
I think Seiwa PVA might be better than Feibing's PVA. I sure would like to know.
I have not seen that Seiwa product before but I wouldn't expect it to be very different.
@@TeranAtelier I still have a gallon and a half of Fiebing's PVA to work through, and a while ago I switched to 1816b for most of my adhesion needs. One thing going for Fiebing's is that it has an incredibly long shelf life, just keep agitating it every now and again.
Hi! I think PVA is best for wood and paper (and DIY). For leathers (leather to leather, fabrics to leather, paper to leather, rubber-pur-eva-tpr-tpes....to leather) the good - efficient, strong, elastic - adhesives are PUR, and rubber types (neoprene, chloroprene (like Aquilim315)..etc., latex). They are both in dispersion and solvent based. PVA is too thick, open time is too long. (sorry for bad english :)
@@gabormolnar6686 Thank you for your reply.