Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for CR 10 Printers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ส.ค. 2018
- Here are installation instructions for Micro Swiss All Metal a Hotend Kit for CR10 Printers.
Order Kit: store.micro-swiss.com/product...
"Super Power Cool Dude" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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6:05 put silicon cover before you reattach fan assembly.
Been using mine for about a year now...no issues yet LOL! I think a few people forget or ignore the step to where after the install is complete, you MUST heat the nozzle/hot end up, then tighten the nozzle and heat break at the same time to insure no leakage AND watch your retraction settings in your slicer. I had to do some PID tuning because my machine wasn't feeding as much material through or at some point it was feeding too much too fast. You MUST make this calibration for your machine to be on point! Pushing 100mm of filament must = 100mm of filament through the hotend. any more and you end up with clogs, any less and you end up with missed layers. On that same note...anything more than 5-6mm of retraction could lead to clogs in your CR10/S, micro swiss hot end, as it pulls molten filament into the cold zone where it may stick. I'm getting my best results with 5mm retraction at about 25-30mm per sec speed rate. Hope this helps!
if you change filament (say from high temp PETG or carbon fiber to low temp PLA), do you need to redo PID auto-tune set at actual filament temperature?
Thanks for your input Friend!
thank you for posting !!
I just bought one. Watched this video because I thought "It can't possibly be as easy as it looks".
But it was.
Seriously though, the design on this thing is amazing!
It isn't as easy as it looks, in fact, if you're not super careful you're essentially screwed out of a lot of money trying to figure out why you're stupid printer is underextruding to find out your hotend is leaking. This is a do or die type of tutorial, if you mess it up you're going to suffer a lot for it. Wish me luck
@@AndrewT34pot Are you sure you bought a genuine one? Because that's simply not the case.
Put the hotend on, heat it up, tighten the heatbreak, put in a nozzle, tighten nozzle, done.
It is superbly easy, even for beginners
Thank you so very much! This is fantastically helpful!!
Excellent video update! Very helpful :)
just got this installed today in my ender 3 v2 so far prints are coming out flawless.
better than before?
Super Helpful! Thanks!
Just bought one for my Ender 3. I had tried a cheap clone....but with mixed results so thought I should go for the genuine article as it comes so highly rated. Standard of manufacture is impeccable, included parts & accessories are excellent too. Not fitted yet but looking forward to trying it out. Will report back.
WELL?!
yep. need to get one of these
What happened to the definite articles?
Installed ir today, it was rly easy but the screws for the cooling Block looks rly weak, i overtighten it a bit and now ist nearly round, i hope it have enough grip for disassemble in the future.
I broke the glass bead on my thermister. So I bought a sprinkler kit from creakily. And spliced the new thermister to the old wires and it worked perfect.
Bought one a short while back, fitted and printing great....until it started clogging after quite a lot of successful prints. Long story short....I didn't pay attention to the really very simple guidance shown @6:10 :( I contacted MicroSwiss support and they were both prompt and helpful when replying and yep, you guessed it, too much retraction was the problem.
So, in conclusion, follow the guidance!! It's a beautiful quality product and the support, even for total idiots like myself, is great.
Did you end up having to clean out the hotend and cool end when the clog happened or did you just change retractions and carry on printing? I just swapped mine out like last week and yesterday I tried a long print twice and it stopped extruding both times.
Greg Posey Had to strip it down and clean it. There was a buildup stuck to the inside of the heatbreak. Took some cleaning, but once done it’s been perfect since with PLA and PETG with 3mm retraction
@@chrissavage5966 thanks for the advice, do you have a video recommendation or process for how to break down the hotend for cleaning and what to clean it with? Thanks again!
@@GRizzle206 Hi Greg. Having only recently installed the hot end I was familiar enough with it to strip it down. Just refer to this video (the one we are commenting on) for the general assembly. You need to get the heatbreak out and in your hands to clean it effectively. For cleaning, I just used careful application of suitably sized tools to carefully remove the traces of plastic stuck to the bore of the heatbreak. One bit was really stubborn. Do be careful as you don't want to scratch the internal finish, but it is Titatnium after all so is pretty tough.
Is this good for petg and tpu that’s the two main filaments I’ll be printing
This is a solid upgrade! Works nicely with my Voxelab Aquila.
I inserted the white tube into the black clip as indicated and inserted the red clip. But the white tube keeps on popping off and damaging my prints. Can I use gorilla glue or something? Thanks.
Just put this on my ender 5 pro and all i get now is uzing pla any help would be great thank you.
Did extruder’s bar screw can be inoxydable? Why did we use only small black carbon screw to lock the extruder hot end instead of long inoxydable? Does this change something ?Thank you
You can still use original long screws to lock the hotend but you will have to stay with original heater block with two holes thru it. With our slotted heater block we had to remove those two holes in order to add slotted clamping system. From our testing, we think that slotted clamping system on the heater block benefits the hotend more than those to screws do.
Can I mount it on an Anet et4?
I can’t get the thermal break to fit inside the cooling block. Please help
is there any reason, why I shouldn't torque the nozzle against the heatbreak without the cooling block already attatched? The cooling block makes fastening more difficult - furthermore, it isn't cooled during the process due to the disassembled fan. In contrast to your installation instructions I think it is preferable to assemble heatblock, heatbreak and nozzle first, then heat it up, tighten everything and cool down - and only then put the assembly in the cooling block.
Yes, you can defiantly do that way as well. Just make sure that the heater block is at the printing temperature when tightening the nozzle.
neat how those 2 orientation lock bolt disappear at the 1:00 time.
Seriously how do we get those out?
@@piraaanha1 Screwed from underneath from the other side of the heatblock. Mine unfortunately didn't disappear, nor did the isolation :(
@@AlexKall yea this is a "in a perfect world" guide
Has anyone installed this on an Ender 5 with a direct drive upgrade already installed? I'm stuck at the step of connecting the Bowden tube.
I just bought one of these off of Amazon, going to do a review after install, I really hope it is as good as everyone is saying it is.
nobody needs your review, honestly, there's 200 already.
Joey duncan nobody gives a fuck about your shitty dumbass comment either except me, your lowest piece of shit troll on TH-cam right now
@@xyzebruh1083 I agree with you tbh
what about pid settings???
Just overtorqued the threads while fastening the nozzle (wanted to avoid leakage at all cost...). What is the recommended maximum torque for tightening the nozzle?
Recommended torque is 30in-lb
@@MicroSwissLLC Thanks for the quick reply. For anyone else reading this in a non-imperial-unit-country: 30 inlb = 3,4Nm :-)
The PID should not be adjusted and what about the extruder steps?
i have Ender 3v2 with ABL. i was already install MircoSwiss hotend with bowden tube, but i have no idea for how to retraction right because i'm just new user of this year
After installing this kit, please reduce your retraction distance to no more than 4mm
@@MicroSwissLLC ok I trying to add 4 mm retraction 👍
Thermos Door. :D
The fact you guys didnt make the cooling fins bigger is mind boggling. Theres plenty of room in there and in hot printing enviroments (IE my area) it could help A LOT.
And printing in cold environments would be harder. It's about getting a neutral point of balance. Just print an auxiliary mount for a secondary fan, should do the trick.
@@Enderplays12 The cold section of the hotend being even colder would not be a problem
Just got mine. Unfortunately, it doesnt fit the cr10 V3 with titan extruder. At least Its not going to fit without some serious customizing. The mount points are entirely different, as the v3 supports the hot end with how it fits inside the creality fan shrouds. I'll have to put my printer back together and see if anyone has any great fan/extruder brackets to use. Fingers crossed!
Bondtech makes a direct drive extruder called the DDX V3. It will fit with the microswiss hotend.
anyone having issues with keeping temperature? As soon as the fan turns on which is recommended at 100% speed, the temperature drops drastically. Anyone have a fix to this? I've seen a few videos saying to change my pid settings, any help to how this can be done will be much appreciated.
had the same issue :( and after all this work still no decent prints out of this e5+
@@yoerim360 weird seeing this after a year. I fixed my issue, look into updating your pid settings for your printer, I chose to get a raspberry pi which works with octoprint to do so.
this video may help with PID tuning for your temp issues,
th-cam.com/video/9PTO98GuhxA/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=TeachingTech
What is the best Thermistor to use with this kit?
This kit was designed in a way that the original Thermistor can be used. You do not have to change your thermistor when upgrading to this kit.
@@MicroSwissLLC My Anycubic Kobra Go Thermistor was damaged so I needed to replace it anyway
@@foxman150 It fits 100K thermistors.
How to reduce retraction amount on cura ?
The Retraction Distance is in the "Travel" tab of Cura print settings.
If you are not seeing it there, make sure you enable the Advanced setting visibility by clicking on Preferences > Configure Cura.. > Settings > and then select "Advanced" from the drop down menu.
Help! I got 2 prints out of this hot end and cannot get anymore! No matter what I try, filament will not consistently go through my hot end. The printer tore up my brand new capricorn ptfe tubing because it would start fine and then just stop going through after a while. I don't understand what is going on.
What are your retraction settings set at?
I initially tried 4 mm on the first two prints, which where stringy but ok, then tried 1 mm once it began clogging after the first couple of layers.
Please contact support@micro-swiss.com regarding this issue. They will help you out
MAKE SURE YOUR FAN IS RUNNING, IT WILL CLOG EBERYTHING. Rip after half a year i need to buy new one. My fan wire dettached mid print and clogged the hole thing up
Clean it out again, I just cleaned mine after a bad clog using a heat gun and a few tooth pics..
Just bought this and put it on, now my pla filament is dripping out when printing. I can push the filament through by hand.
what fixed this?
Why are retractions reduced?
to prevent clogging and build up. if the filament retracts too far it will retract into the cold part and clog. super important not to have retractions too high or you're gunna have a bad day.
Wow his version way different then one I got
What kit did you got? Where did you got it from? There are a lot of clones out there.
Did a robot voice this?
Usually the sign of a Chinese company trying to make themselves sound American. The odd grammar also indicts this may be a Chinese company with US operations. Just my opinion.
@@IamJasonHall It's made in USA, I doubt it is Chinese...
does this work with Cr10 S5 as well?0
Yes, It will fit CR-10 S5
Nice defenetly going to order.
What about max temperature?
any sellers on euroe?
Thanks and Greetings From Finland
@@nuuskapeke11 The hotend was tested at 300C and it handles this temperature with no problem.
Here is a list of all our re-sellers: store.micro-swiss.com/pages/resellers
Total respect for this company, but I would not buy this hotend again. Don't get me wrong it works GREAT...but This is one of those "learned my lesson and won't be recommending it to anyone" situations where I bought it, and realized what a rigid thermal break and heating block are after the fact. With this hotend, you literally can't replace a simply nozzle unless you support the thermal break, there are others you can buy that have posts that hold the heaterblock in place so its not such a PIA. You have to do what you see at 5:10 into this video EVERY time a nozzle is replaced, and let me tell you that sucks for me, cause I have take my whole cooling system apart to do it.
From reading the comments before I buy, has anyone actually had a good experience using this on their CR-10? I have an S5 and need 6-6.5 mm retraction to prevent stringing.
The Cooling block needs more fins, and the front side of it should be Half round to increase surface area.
the heatbreak is make of titanium. No need to cool the coldzone down that much.
@@REDxFROG Hmm, the E3D has more fins, and is considered a better hotend. The heat creeps into the cooling block because the hot side is stronger than the cool side.
1:16 why unscrew the cooling block?
So, why should I spend a quarter of the price of the printer on this?
Because PTFE tubing starts to break down at temperatures within range for printing ABS. Your bowden tube won't last long with the stock hotend if you plan to print anything other than PLA. The hardened nozzle also allows you to print other materials (e.g. copper, carbon fiber) without tearing up the soft brass nozzle.
Because it makes printing your materials way, way, way easier and better. As an upgrade to your printer the Micro-Swiss hot-end does have by far the biggest impact and improvement on your printing quality. So yes, it may seem an expensive piece of hardware compared with the cost of a Creality printer. And Creality printers already gives very much bang for very little buck (relatively) and gives already a very good printing quality for it's price. But with the Micro-Swiss hot-end the printing quality becomes comparable to way more expensive 3D printers. Way less oozing, way less stringing, way better first layer adhesion and - the most noticable - zero to none wall defects, wobbles and ghosting, way sharper less fuzzy edges, way better details and simply stronger prints. And the stronger prints are very noticable with thinner pieces.
In the whole printing chain there are many important factors which helps on printing quality. But the hot-end is imho the most important piece of hardware next to a well calibrated extruder. And as I see it, the Creality printers are a very good base for creating a superb customized 3D printer.
@@plasticlobster69
So why print with ABS.
Just print PETG, and stainless steel and hardened steel nozzles are sold just like any other nozzles. This is just made in steel I suppose... The hotend is that little thing that you shove into the hole. This should decrease heat transfer to the nozzle, and make everything heat up slower.
@@patrick_van_der_meulen they give me a whole pile of troubles lol. have it since november 20 and would be great if it would start printing decently. when one problem is fixed another is there
Why is the company called micro swiss when the device is made in the US?
Our company called Micro Swiss, the Swiss part came from "Swiss Style Screw Machines" that we run in our shop. Those machines make all of our nozzles and hotends components.
@@MicroSwissLLC This seems a bit strange. You package your products in boxes designed like the Swiss flag. Your logo has a Swiss flag. It really seems more likely that you're trying to come off as Swiss to most people.
why is it called micro swiss when its 100% american ? I cant find the answer on the internet
Probably heritage
SOS I need help. Already done the upgrade on my Ender but I am having constant clogging. Seems like the PLA filament melted and froze between the Bowden tube and the nozzle. Nothing comes out, and I can't pull the filament out.
Had to remove the bowden tube and push the filament through and then I can pull it out. When I cleared the clog and tried to print, it would print for about 1-2 minutes and after initially underextruding, it would stop extruding altogether and clog up. I tried to increase the temperature from 220-240 in 5 degree increments but it didn't help. Retraction is set at 4mm. I am at a loss as to how I can resolve this problem. Anyone can help??
Andy, Please email us at suport@micro-swiss.com, and we will help you resolve this issue. Include your order number please.
Sounds very much like heat creep, is your hot end fan definitely running?
Why, why, why shorter? If I change from steel to aluminium rims I have not to change my car besides the actuall rim. But this design is like needing a new suspension on a car. I want a new hot end and not a complete redesign of my printer. This thing is already expensive for just some machined metal parts. Stay on norms and not make own measures which not fit just into existing printers.
I'm on the fence on buying one so I'm reading all these old comments. I wondered why and someone above said: "anything more than 5-6mm of retraction could lead to clogs in your CR10/S, micro swiss hot end, as it pulls molten filament into the cold zone where it may stick. I'm getting my best results with 5mm retraction at about 25-30mm per sec speed rate. Hope this helps!" . Sounds legit to me.
@@fanplant Maybe it works (really not) like old (?) way of candle making so the filament deeps into molten zone and eventually it gets thicker than the channel or a thined out strand gets pulled out and works like a spring coil and rubbing against the bore wall.
@@wernerhiemer406 well I guess my next project is going to be putting a camera in the side of an extruder, lol, idk. I'm still on the fence because I'm only printing PLA so far.
@@fanplant Ok tried POM but it stinks and sketching paper helped for adhesion even if ripping it at removing. But without housing it warps as hell.
It's really not all that complicated. Just get one and install one if you want one. Make the needed changes (p.s. there aren't that many). & Have fun!
Bough one. Broke it. Too much force when installing. Buying a new one for 90$. Happy day..
hey is it worth it? does it improve quality at all? as of now the hottest filament i print with petg so i really have no need for this except i got one for free. does it make printing pla and petg better as well?
It's not pronounced "thermi-store". It's pronounced "thermister" even though it's spelled that way. Similar to "creator".
It clogs like hell :(
George Siadis does it???
Yes. I installed it in the past week and have had nothing but headaches and clogs. Save your money
Dislike! For demonstrating dangerous work methods!
Contact with 235°C bare metal will instantly scorch skin!
Wear work gloves when doing this, at least on one hand and use it as a guard between the bare hand if dexterity is needed.
not that scary. I use soldering iron with tip temperature at 400C all the time, got burned a few times over the years, not a big deal other than the lingering nasty smell of burned flesh.