Microswiss NG - New Direct drive for the Ender 3 and CR 10!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
- #3DPrinting #Ender3Pro #Creality
Purchase from - store.micro-swiss.com/?bg_ref...
Is this the best Direct Drive for the Ender 3 and CR-10? This is the new Micro Swiss NG Direct Drive Extruder for the Creality CR-10 & Ender 3 Printers. The build quality is top notch, what would you expect from MicroSwiss? This will be installed on my Ender 3 Pro'ish 3D Printer! The printer already the Creality #CRTouch and #TH3DStudios solid bed mounts. Also has the @bigtreetech5117 #SKRMiniE3v2 and the #TFT43 display.
Purchase MicroSwiss NG -
store.micro-swiss.com?bg_ref=r0hg2vMomV
STL Download-
www.thingiverse.com/thing:535...
Purchase CR Touch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor - www.amazon.com/dp/B09GM692QL?...
Yoyi TPU-
www.amazon.com/dp/B07TMCZVQV?...
Purchase the TH3D ExFlex -
www.th3dstudio.com/product/ez...
Purchase TH3D Solid Bed Mount Kit - www.th3dstudio.com/product/th...
Disclaimer - This is an instructional video only - I assume no responsibility if you do not become a pro after watching this video. This video is for learning purposes only, you are following the steps in this video at your own risk!
/ tripodsgarage
/ tripodsgarage
/ tripodsgarage
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Tags
CR6-SE, CR6SE, 32-Bit Control Board, TMC2209 Stepper Motor Driver, 3D Printer, 3D Printing, CR-10, CR-10s, Ender 3, Ender 3Pro, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5, creality silent board, silent board, BIRGTREETECH, SKR CR6V1.0, #Artillery Hornet, Artillery Genius, #Kywoo Tycoon Slim, #Ender5Plus #CR6SE, #FLSUN #SR #Superracer, Bondtech #FOKOOS #ODIN-5 #3DPrinter #3DPrinting #longerlk5pro #longer3dprinter #LK5PRO #mircoswiss @microswiss #directdrive - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Fantastic review!
That is a really good review and step by step instructions. Keep it up.
At 9:45 you are holding the hotend with a wrench while the printer is on. I fried my mainboard like this because I shorted the heater cartridge with the thermistor and the 24v volts directly went into the thermistor signal. I advise to turn your printer off after heating it up and wait for 5-10 seconds. Nice tutorial tho!
nice video buddy I might just have try one out very well done on explaining the instalation
John, good review. Looks like an interesting unit. I did the same thing - used old bowden tube to support the wiring, but also inserted a 16 gauge steel wire inside the tube for even more support. Another option for wrapping is a split cable loom. Lots of new direct drive extruders on the market, probably the best upgrade for a Creality printer
Great vid. Thank you!
Love the new level of video (and the puns)
Nice video bro, a dual z upgrade is needed for this extruder.?
Do you change the XY Home set for the new Microswiss Extruder ?
What about the XY Offset vor the CR Touch Probe ?
What were your probe offset settings for this?
I have a quick question. What is the max nozzle temp with this? I need something that can print nylon, asa, carbon fiber.
is this the right one for the cr-10 Smart?
have you tried printing ninjaflex 85A tpu on it?
John great review as always. I saw when you was printing that you used both side of the flex plate, is one side for pla (smooth) and the rough side for petg? I'll definitely be getting the both and just wondering so I don't mess up the plate
Hope this helps Chris, took it off of TH3D's website
Adhesion Help - Check out our article here: EZMat/EZPei - Adhesion Tips and Tricks
ABS - You will need to use something like VisionMiner Nano Polymer to stick ABS to PEI, or use our EZMat on the other side of the plate. Smaller parts will stick but larger parts may lift without an adhesion promoter on the PEI surface
PETG/PCTG/TPU - If you are not careful with your 1st layer you can risk bonding the PETG/PCTG/TPU to the PEI surface. This will damage the surface. To prevent damage to the surface apply hairspray or PVA gluestick before printing PETG/PCTG/TPU on the PEI or EZMat surfaces
Part Removal - Make sure your plate is at close to room temp (under 30C) before removing parts. If you remove it when hot it is more likely to damage the surface.
Magnetic Base Compatibility - Using our plates with a 3rd party magnet may result in the plate warping as other brands' magnets are not as strong as ours.
Maintain Proper Z Height - When starting a print make sure your bed is level and your nozzle is not too close to the bed (if using an ABL system check that your Z offset is correct and use the Babystepping to adjust during a print). Running the nozzle too close will damage the surface and/or embed the plastic into the sheet. Damage due to improper Z height is hard to fix and is not covered under warranty.
Cleaning - Keep the top and bottom of the plate clean as well as the magnet if you get anything on it. IPA is what is recommended to clean the plate and magnetic base. Make sure that no liquids or adhesives are on top of the magnet or bottom of the plate. If liquids are between the magnet and the plate it can damage and degrade the magnet so keep them dry and clean.
SMOOTH PLATES SHIPPED AFTER 4/19/2021 WILL NOT HAVE A PROTECTIVE FILM ON THEM. WE ARE NOW REMOVING IT BEFORE SHIPMENT BECAUSE SOME CUSTOMERS WOULD NOT REMOVE IT BEFORE USING THE PLATES.
Dual Side Usage - When using the EZMat or other surface on the rear of the plate the magnetic strength will feel less than using a plate with only the PEI surface. We have tested using dual sided applications on our plates in house and they work well even with a surface on both sides. Some users have reported that on large prints having another surface on the rear can cause it to pull up from the magnet. Only apply a 2nd surface to the rear of the plate if you accept this risk.
Any changes to probe offset?
Would love to know some more slices settings if you have any? I updated the PID did esteps and it is under extruding. Anyone calibrate the flow also? TIA 👍
Can i make my printer faster now with the ng? Can it flow more? What do i need to adjust and what are its limmits and of a otherwise stock ender 3 pro? Imput plz and suggeations
what are the correct retraction settings?
what kind of nozzles go in this? and is the one that comes with the kit a hardened nozzle ? i tried getting this info on the microswiss website but they dont mention it. ..
Having trouble with my prints I installed the micro swis ng but still trying to set in cura and the sonic pad
is this better than the original kit from Micro swiss where we lost -10 on the y?
With the safety, just don't unplug the cord the way shown in the video. Never unplug by pulling the cord like that, grab it on the socket/plug as close to the end as possible :)
Aside from that, great tutorial video. I am currently tossing up between the Microswiss NG and Creality Sprite.
If you watch the video again, you will notice something about me unplugging it the way I did. I wouldn’t normally unplug something this way. During editing I noticed to didn’t have the unplugging of the machine. I simply reversed the footage 😂. Thanks for the compliment, and commenting on the video 👍
@@TripodsGarage I ended up biting the bullet and going for the Micro Swiss NG. Just seemed a better option compared to the Creality Sprite :). Thanks again for the great video.
Now before I install it, I just have to work out the extruder settings for Klipper :)
Hello,
Great video! I installed the the same micro Swiss on my ender 5 pro with the 400 Esteps but can’t get my printer to rock and roll like yours. The micro Swiss stepper just clicks. Acting as if it’s stuck I do manage to get some extrusion when I apply pressure my hand. But then as I let go. It starts clicking. Any ideas ?? TIA
John. First nice meeting you at ERRF. I don’t suppose a Capricorn can be used in the Swiss hot end?
Great meeting you as well! Do you mean a Capricorn tube?
@@TripodsGarage yes. I haven’t had a Bowden tube cook since started using one
Awesome video, what is that aftermarket screen you are using?
Thanks for watching - The display is a BigTreeTech Direct TFT50 V3.0 Display - a.co/d/37xTtRZ
Thanks! I want this
Do you think this is better than the previous model they released?
Now I want one.... lol
Did this install and have severe leveling issues since I put on the Microswiss NG. Anyone have this issue or know of a good fix?
Tripods~ uuseful .;)
Where did you find STLs on their website? I have been looking for 30 minutes, I need to install a BLTouch on mine and none of the brackets fit.
Here it is
www.thingiverse.com/thing:5358828
I would have to break out the lapping papers and get rid of those tooling marks and get those parts super shiny! I did it with the regular MSDD kit I installed
Is this a lure to catch fish or a lure to catch fishermen? 😂😉 Looks & prints nice. 👍
Needs a manual feed knob 🤷🏼♂️😔
Don't forget to redo the offset and bed mesh/tramming.
When I went direct, I ran all the wiring in front of the extrusion. Zero chance of it binding/rubbing the 2020 if I end up at max Z.
Definitely a lure 😂! Seen more direct drives lately without a knob. Figured I would mention it in the video. Most definitely, need to level, and offset!
@@TripodsGarage my titan clone doesn't either, but the driven gear is exposed enough and works as a substitute.
This is one of the biggest pluses for the OmniaDrop.
I was wondering about the cooling. With the cooling duct it looks like both fans are used to cool, unlike the stock setup where the front fan cooled the hotend only now it looks like it cools the part too. What if you did not want any cooling for the print just the hotend? I know the cooling fan can be turned off but not the hotend one.
What tpu was that?
I updated the description- YOYI TPU 3D Printer... www.amazon.com/dp/B07TMCZVQV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
they said it works on CR 10 and Ender 3 but would it work on Cr10s pro v2 ???
Hi Larry. I'm not the uploader and by no means am I an expert, but I installed this on my cr10s pro v2 earlier this week and it works great. The included fan shroud does not work for the 10s pro as it is meant for a different fan size and the screws for the x axis tensioner interefere with the fan shroud. I believe there are some shrouds on the internet for it with the 40x20 blower fan, but I ended up editing the original fan shroud file myself, and I will upload to thingiverse if I get microswiss' permission to do so. Other than that, it installs just as easily as the other printers it is intended for. Feel free to ask any questions if you have any.
@@kryptonaight4076 thanks for the reply
@@kryptonaight4076 Would it work without the fan shroud? I can't print anything using my old bowden setup (I just got a bird and the PFTE tube is toxic to them) , I'd have to install this one and print the fan shroud without a fan shroud installed
@snatchcrap the printer would theoretically work without the shroud. Print cooling would be extremely poor. I would recommend you install it with the shroud and tape the fan into place, trying to duct it into the opening for the smaller fan. Then, you can print the shroud compatible with the fan. The print has a lot of overhangs so print cooling is a must.
@@kryptonaight4076 Thanks :)
it is funny. every video I see and documentation says E-steps 400. For some reason I had to set mine to 825. I ma not sure why this is. But it is right on.
Wow! 852! I am running the BigtreeTech SKR Mini E3 v2. Are you running the original board?
@@TripodsGarage no, it's a skr pro in a idex format. It started its life as a ender 3. Now its a ender 3 idex that's 400x400x500. Lol. But for some reason even with the bmg extruder it's e-steps r 824. So idk. Oh, I'm also running a palette 3 pro on it. Lol
This video lacks important steps. After setting the esteps to 400 you must run an extrusion test to see if you are extruding 100 mm of filament when set to do so. A PID tune is required and time the hot end is modified or parts are replaced.
If they were needed, then I would have mentioned them.
@@TripodsGarage They are needed. My actual esteps are 410 not 400 and PID turning is required any time a hot end is modifyed.
The other videos posted on the MicreSwiss site say they are required and so do most in the industry.
@@Rons514 - If I noticed a temperature swing on my hotend, then I would have done a PID tune and included it in the video. There wasn’t any variations in temps. If I noticed under extrusions, then I would have checked the e-steps, then included it in the video. Did you comment on Chris Riley’s, or Modbot’s?
Really disappointed in microswiss on this one. No instructions included and I must have missed the point in people's videos talking about the extension cable and it's too switched wires. But come on who relies on community videos for their instructions. What you can R&D apart but you can't pay someone to write a paragraph? My printer does not extrude at all anymore I'm hoping that this garbage setup just blew a stepper driver and nothing else. Even a small card with a warning would have been nice. I thought it was just an extension to go from Bowden to direct drive.
Just another extruder manufacturer joining the hot end gravy train.
My cheapo ender 5 hotend still works great, prints flawlessly and only costs $15 to replace. The spare $105 can buy me a ton of filament.
@MicroSwiss has been in the "hot end game" for a long time. Nobody is twisting your arm to purchase this. Glad your Ender 5 hot is working great, when this is for an Ender 3 and CR10. In most cases the price reflects the quality of the product. Keep on pushing cheap knockoff garbage. Yep, your $105 can buy you about 4 rolls of cheapo filament. Not exactly a ton.
The price is still ridiculous.
There are other options at your disposal. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Tell me other options that are better for less price