Creality Ender-3: First upgrade - hotend fix
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2022
- This should be the first upgrade/fix you make to your Creality Ender-3 printer.
Models:
Separator:
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:486...
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:326...
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:320...
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:422...
Zip tie:
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:461...
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:463...
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Hardware (Aliexpress)
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Fysetc S6 V2: cutt.ly/fysetc-s6-v2
Fysetc 3DTouch: cutt.ly/fysetc-3dtouch
eSun eBox: cutt.ly/esun-ebox
Rounded thermometer: cutt.ly/thermometer-rounded
Sunlu FilaDryer S1: cutt.ly/sunlu-filadryer-s1
Sunlu S8: cutt.ly/Sunlu-S8
Connectors: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nIbA8pok
Bed surface: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Dg6ItCJW
Endstops: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ei0StzT6
Induction sensors: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/4INbO4zw
ANTCLABS BL-Touch: cutt.ly/bltouch
Senzor 3D-Touch: cutt.ly/3dtouch
Ender-3: cutt.ly/ender-3
Ender-3 PRO: cutt.ly/ender-3-pro
Anet A8: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c30lneuo
Anet A8 Plus: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cN9nKdes
MKS Gen L 1.0: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bHOaQwQG
MKS Gen V1.4: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bO14trX6
Einsy Rambo 1.1b: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/csE2y6hE
Mega2560: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cCkNEFZI
Ramps 1.6: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bcpdI3NQ
SKR mini V1.1: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cVPMoDmY
SKR E3 DIP V1.0: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cG5yZBTS
Fysetc Cheetah: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/ACBjVSY
SKR Mini E3: cutt.ly/skr-mini-e3
SKR 1.1: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/byhDmnLE
SKR 1.3: cutt.ly/skr-1-3
SKR 1.4: cutt.ly/skr-1-4
SKR PRO V1.1: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/c8R4pMCs
SKR Mini E3 V2.0: cutt.ly/skr-mini-e3-v2_0
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Music
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Sad Robot by Vexento - • Vexento - Sad Robot - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I hope you like the video. If so, send it to your friends. Maybe it will make someone happy and maybe it will help.
If not, please write a few words what you do not like. I would love to learn and improve my videos. 😉🙏
Tube connector on top of the radiator, you have left it half turn untightened, but i have not seen it is tightened until the end of the video?
Thank you for the video tutorial. After removing and reinstalling the nozzle I would recommend running through bed level/z offset process as the nozzle distance from bed will likely have changed. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
You just saved my life. Big time. Had a nozzle snap inside of the hotend while I was trying to unclog it, had no idea what anything was, and barely had the right tools. But this just showed me how to do everything easily. I hope you see this and i liked and subscribed! ❤
I damaged my heat-break trying to remove it from the heat block but still managed to get everything working right. The has completely fixed my under-extrusion issue. I used a washer that came with an m3 screw kit. Thanks.
Everything is well explained and good :) but don't heat the Hotend to 260°C that's to hot for the PTFE. PTFE lined Hotends should only be heated up to 240°C that's especially important for printing operations!
While PTFE is stable and nontoxic at lower temperatures, it begins to deteriorate at temperatures of about 260 °C (500 °F), it decomposes above 350 °C (662 °F), and pyrolysis occurs at temperatures above 400 °C (752 °F).
This is also why Ender has a temperature limit of 260 °C.
You still need to set the highest temperature you can print at to make sure the nozzle doesn't loosen.
@@Zemistr3D Ok, I always read about 240°C beeing the max. at least for long printing operations, but if that's the case 260°C should be fine ✌️ I would still recommend keeping a buffer so it wouldn't start to deteriorate. :)
Hi, the deteriorate of the PTFE Tube depends on the quality of the tube. Some can go up to 260 for short, time some don´t like 230.
The better solution is to use a full metal heatbreak. Any "modern" avoids contact of any PTFE tube at the heatzone.
@@helgemoller5158 In another video will be upgrade to the all metal hotend. I'm waiting some parts from China. 😅
I'm trying do the upgrades in some logic and budget way.
God bless you bro. You are my hero. I couldn't solve my hotend problem but after your video my problem is solved. Thank you
If you dont have a worm , a grub-screw will work..... Or source a worm from outside when it is raining XD
Really nice video, I'm definitely going to do this next time the PTFE tube pulls away from the nozzle.
I wanted to let you know this worked great for me. Just installed this week! Thank you!
This is a great video, super helpful with my printing. The video is also perfectly structured for clarity. 5/5
Very informative. Thank you for teaching me something new.
didny=t think i would be upgrading my ender 3 first time i try to print something but I was unlucky and got a lemon. not only did i have to deal with the z axis not being aligned propperly which is something i noticed immediately during assembly because it wouldn't just drop into the coupling (i now have a flexable coupling and that fixed it plush a shim behind the stepper motor) i have it heated 30 min total and thermal runaway and i decided just replace the whole thing since fixing the thermistor is a 6 month fix while this is Permanente.
I bought this exact hot because it has a better themoster and And Not even after 30 minutes of use because I only hated up three times I was getting thermal run away. I hurry up! Trying to get the phone again. After that I thought I had it in and I tried to put a calibration cube and there was no extrusion. I then tried to put the filament t in again and went away for 10 min and I come back to hear a constant beep and it says thermal runaway.
Thank you for a very nicely done video. I like the modification, but experienced some difficulties with the filament passing through the O-ring and getting to the heat block. Any suggestions?
Try to enlarge the inlet opening on the separator a bit.
Great video.
That's work it bro Thanks so much :D
or buy $5 bimetal heatbreak to make it all metal and never worry again. 5months in and I haven't had a single problem
I wanted to show how to do it without spending money.
But yeah... All metal or bi-metal is for sure better choice.
$5 where? $15 on Amazon
@@Boorne2Kill AliExpress, I bought mine from Maccurat store as well as bunch of others parts. 6months in not one clog or issue
@@Boorne2Kill I am now testing this one and it works perfectly. I just had to add some thermal paste around the part of the heatbreak, which goes into the heatsink.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFtgAeL
@@Zemistr3D That says it is for CR10. Is it also compatible with Ender 3 V2?
Edit: I realised that yes, it is compatible.
Thanks
Fiz aqui, aparentemente deu certo, vamos ver por quanto tempo dura.
Well I wish I would have tried this before purchasing a better heat break. I could have saved myself some money.
I tried to remove the heatbreak without scratching it like you said but I wasn't able to, if the heat break is scratched it's a problem?
In case of this heatbreak not so much. Don't you worry. 😉
Great 👏👍🏻
Well done! Subbef