Micro-Swiss All Metal Hot End Upgrade CR-6 se | What Happened?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2022
- #creality #matterhackers #micro-swiss #3dprinting #headache #problemsolving #pidtuning #firmware #cr6
Today, I'm going to show you how I upgraded the stock hot end on my CR6-SE to a Micro Swiss all metal hot end. This was my first time upgrading the hot end on a printer and in my opinion, this took way too long to get my prints to turn out well. So, consider this guide a sort of noob-to-noob guide. Learn from my mistakes, and maybe find a path to a solution if you're having similar issues.
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There's a few things you should know about all-metal hotends compared to PTFE-lined ones.
* The transition zone is much smaller in the all-metal hotend. The heatbreak acts as an insulator so the bulk of the heating occurs in the nozzle threads which are in contact with the heater block. This means that retraction amounts need to be greatly reduced over those used for a PTFE-lined hotend. Typically you might use 5-6mm with a PTFE-lined hotend but only 1.5-2mm with an all-metal one. Any more and you risk dragging melted filament into the heatbreak thread area where PLA will jam.
* The effect of heat creep with material which prints at low temperatures, e.g. PLA, is more pronounced with an all-metal hotend. This is due to them having a higher thermal conductivity. Materials such as ABS and PET-G which have a lower thermal conductivity will print without issue and you may be able to use a little more retraction maybe up to 2.5mm.
Finally, over-extrusion. Everyone over extrudes without realising it. Calibrate your e-steps, set your slicer extrusion multiplier (from measuring the walls of a single-walled open-top cube) and adjust your X, Y and Z steps/mm by measuring a calibration cube. Only then should you perform retraction tests.
After doing this you'll typically find that you need only 1.5mm retraction for PLA and about 2mm for PET-G to create prints without blobs and stringing.
Thank you! I only wish I’d found this last week!
Two days of testing and frustration, pretty poor or generic advice from forums and social media, now I’m going to change my Bowden tube and watch my heart rate go back to safe levels
I hear you! This was driving me insane 😵
Hopefully you get it sorted!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. To everyone who uses 3d printers I say the same thing, lubricating the filament prevents clogging.
Thanks for sharing
Awesome! I have this same Hot end and it's been sitting on my desk for over a week. Think I'll install it this week!
Hopefully your install goes smoother than mine 🤣
i got the NG direct drive and im literally having all the same issues and ran through all the same troubleshooting steps. even been in contact with support for 2 weeks. unfortunately the only remedy ive found is running it with a .4mm nozzle instead of my usual .6mm.
I was so excited to hear this, but alas, it is not my issue. No significant resistance at this point.
Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you get it sorted soon!
same shit happened to me when I first got mine a year ago. so frustrating lol. prints are great for me after I figured that out then
I hear you. Probably knocked a couple years off my life stressing over this. Haha
Do you know if this unit will work on a cr6 max? I've been trying to find upgraded parts for the extruder and hotend but nothing creality makes list it as compatible with cr6 max.
I haven't personally used it on the Max, but it does say it will work with it.
a.co/d/6D7e6CB
@@Avel fantastic, thanks. Ordered one.
So did u keep firmware if u did could u share which you used .kudos on sticking with it
Thanks! Yes, I kept the firmware. There's a lot of pretty good reasons to upgrade - PID tuning from within the printer, higher temps for higher temp filament, and being able to 'see' the bed mesh to name a few. The link to the Community Firmware I used is in the description. I used the latest version, 6.1
@@Avel I updated my two v2 to jyers long ago very happy with it .Use protonoface for all needed tuneups
@@charlesrestivo870 Nice! Yep, I did the PID tune initially with Pronterface, but it can be a bit overwhelming for newcomers. Although, BV3D did make a pretty good and clear video on how to do it.
@@Avel actually can run a pid on jyers straight from ui on screen
What firware did upgrade too ?
Hmm, I was thinking to buy one. Too much hassle.
I mean, honestly, I wouldn't do it again. I upgraded because I wanted to print in nylon, but still haven't purchased a roll because I've considered going back to stock several times now.
What kind of lubricant was used?
I had some generic lemon oil. Works great for cleaning and lubricating the PTFE tube.
@@Avel its oil for cooking?
@@chiahobby5155 No, I used lemon oil made for wood. But I have seen people use Olive Oil.
@@Avel can i use oil cooking ?
th-cam.com/video/2pq8Y_fCCoM/w-d-xo.html
right here, my tube is stuck and I have no idea how I could remove, tried to pull (heat and cold)
any suggestions? Thank you!
Are you compressing the ring of the Bowden fitting?
If the tube is stuck in the hot end and not the fitting - Try heating to 210, remove the nozzle, heat to 240, shove the nozzle through so it comes out where the nozzle would be. Then try pulling it out.
If it's caught in the Bowden fitting, try unscrewing the Bowden fitting, compressing the ring and then try removing the tube.
This is the biggest s.. ever. ive printed 20boats 15 string tests and temp test. Changed filament, nozzles and gone thru a tons of settings in diffrent ends. And the worst part? There is always stringing, and it looks the same no matter what settings i tried with. This microshi..t is coming right of my printer. Im done.. i bought this as my first printer second hand. I did t think id be reading for days on google and test over 50 calibration pieces. And it still got strings
I feel your pain. I wouldn't use it again, either. You're better off going back to the original hot end and buying that $18 bi-metal heat break if you want to print with higher temps.
if you want a machine that you don’t have to mess with get a bambu you will constantly have to troubleshoot with these sub 600 dollar printers
The fan of your hotend is installed wrong way.
Yep. I mentioned it and corrected it in the video.
I DID THE SAME THING
@@sierra659 At least I'm not the only one 😂
Squash ring is just a bad design idea -
100% agree.