Ender 3 Micro Swiss all metal hot end
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 เม.ย. 2024
- If you want to print beyond the Ender 3’s limit of 255 degrees C, you will need to switch to an all metal hot end, like this one from Micro Swiss. It is machined from aluminium and titanium, and installs as a straight swap for your 3D printer.
Requested by one of my Patrons, in this video I explain what an all metal hot end is, compare it to the standard hot end, show you how to install the all metal hot end and then make some print quality comparisons. I also outline why you might need such a modification.
PID autotune and saving is also covered. Links to Marlin reference below.
As noted in the video, you really only need this upgrade if you are planning on printing higher temperature filaments. The quality is superior to the standard hot end, but the price might be hard to justify for this reason alone.
Microswiss CR-10/Ender 3/Tevo Tornado all metal hot end: amzn.to/2E8TmUO
Micro Swiss installation guide: • Micro Swiss All Metal ...
All in one micro 3D printer test: www.thingiverse.com/thing:297...
Capricorn tubes safety PTFE page: www.captubes.com/safety.html
PID Wikipedia article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_con...
Marlin PID autotune reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html
Marlin set PID reference: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M301.html
Capricorn Tubing (plenty of spares of each of these after fitting to the printer):
1m XS PTFE tube on Amazon ($14.50): amzn.to/2wsV2lR
PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors (10 of each for $14): amzn.to/2ykFykM
Purchase the Ender 3 from these links:
Ender 3 Pro Banggood ($30 off with coupon 1d1c08): bit.ly/2OUcEyS
Ender 3 Banggood (US warehouse, Coupon: f2bf59): bit.ly/2Efoi6B
Ender 3 Pro Amazon: amzn.to/2DpkbEs
Ender 3 Amazon: amzn.to/2xyJ23s
Ender 3X (glass bed version): amzn.to/2I7dG85
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Gearbest affiliate link (help support the channel): www.gearbest.com/?lkid=13807527
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #ender3 #microswiss
A neat thing on M303 is the "U" option - do "M303 S200 U1" and at the end of the PID tuning, it sets them active for you, no need to type the numbers back in, just M500 to save. Handy!
I considered using it in the video but it would have tripped up anyone with standard firmware. Thanks for sharing.
@@TeachingTech where do you go to send the gcode to the printer when tuning
When it comes to just about any 3d printing concerns you have a very easy to follow yet rich walkthrough! Definitely the best 3d printing channel for those cutting their teeth at this to experts looking to save time in configuring and fine-tuning their machines. Thank you for doing what you do.
May do this mod in the future, I've done quite a few of the mods you have shown, including the firmware update, etc. Great videos for a beginner like myself !!
Another great video Michael. A potential follow-up video that I'm sure would get a lot of views is to test and compare all metal hot end clones of the Microswiss to see how they compare to the authentic one. I see a ton of discussion in groups about the clones.
Michael, very good job explaining this. I'm very mew to this community, I have a ender 3 pro and have been following you and Chep to help with my printings.
Thanks for tips .
Great info!! I swapped to the Swiss and left my pid’s default. So far I’ve had excellent results!! I’ll look into tuning my pid’s, keep up the good work.
Are you printing PLA or PETG?
Thanks for another honest and straight up review Michael-I’ve actually bought one of these but am yet to fit it - after watching this I doubt now I will fit it unless I start to have issues with the stock hot end. Cheers
As long as you’re only printing PLA, the stock should work pretty well. At least until it clogs.
@@JasperJanssen mine just clogged. I guess my hand is forced.
Great video. One thing to mention is a Swiss All Metal is essential if you plan to do production/heavy use on the ender3 (any printer) I run swiss micros on all my print farm printers (and bondtech extruders) as the PTFE does not stand the test of time where as a correctly installed all metal will require much less maintenance over time.
Thanks for another great video. I've been considering switching to an all metal hot-end so I can print Nylon/Carbon Fiber filament.
Great video and I think it's great you suggest the PID Autotune after the install. I've seen a lot of Facebook group posts where people did this upgrade and had some issues. Many resolved themselves after the PID autotune was run. Keep up the good work!
Man, thank you for all the info and not just sending everyone out to get a new hot end. Turns out I don't need one at all and I'm ok with the one that comes with my Ender 3. I do wish you had a Discord channel running for your patrons, I would be all over that! I would recommend it, let your subs discuss among themselves, etc. Think about it!
I'm not very familiar with Discord but it's definitely something I'll consider in future.
Very informative channel. I've watched quite a few of your videos of FFF and your lowrider. Good quality intro statements that grab attention. Good editing and nice cadence of information.
I have the Tevo Tornado, same model as you with the not so attractive gold trim. I upgraded to the Micro Swiss and absolutely love it, I have had no issues whatsoever with it, and when I got it, the heater block was missing, I called the company, a real person answered and within 24 hours I had a replacement part.
I've just fitted the Ender 3 hot end to my tornado so I can use the hero me duct. Glad to hear about good customer service.
I believe the Swiss site also mentioned raising your default temp as well, I recently fitted the micro and usually print PLA at 200c, but I have found 218c works a lot better, I'm also using the bullseye cooler. Great vid though as always. 👍
I had a bit at the back of the video about this. Thanks for mentioning it.
Guess that's going to be my next upgrade on the CR10. Thanks for the information.
@HappyandAtheist why is it bad for PLA?
Just got it for my CR10 S5. Really like it. Way better than the stock extruder pushing through a 20+ inch bowden tube.
I made the transition to Micro Swiss and I love it. Great video
Yup I upgraded to this device a while ago mostly because I’ve standardized in printing PETG but also want to expand to other material.
I don't mind spending money in this hobby so happy to have it to make the printer feel about nicer and higher quality.
Have you printed in PC?
@@SaulHernandez-vh2rw I personally have not.
I print overture PETG at 260 and it still looks like it’s not hot enough so I need to decrease speed. Has it made it easier to print Petg?
@@patjohn775 i printed it at 240c with no issues
Great video very good info, I just ordered on and am looking fwd to putting it on my CR-10. Thanks
I just installed the micro Swiss hotend on my Tevo tornado and it is working flawlessly! I don't know exactly what was on it to begin with but it kept clogging it was giving me all sorts of problems. I made the switch and it's working like a dream!
Mikey, I might end up upgrading to the Micro Swiss all metal hot end eventually. I have one of their tempered steel nozzles which is suppose to stand up to more abrasive materials, but I've only used PETG and PLA on it so far. Unfortunately I couldn't find anything other than the standard .4mm nozzles, and they're a little pricey, but maybe you could do a video on those for the Tevo T or the Ender 3. Any how, good to see you again, and Merry Christmas.
Another good episode mate. Big thumbs up for this one.
Love your videos. Looks pretty straight forward since I have install/reinstall the e3D Hotend on my other printer. Q: it looks like you did not add heatsink compound to the heat break. Just to be sure. I added Heat sync compound to mine. I guess it does not hurt to do so. I do like that I can use the wrench tool to hold the heat break and tighten the nozzle with a socket wrench. Much, Much easier than using a pair of pliers to try to hold the very hot heater block while trying not to get burned. Again, So much easier and safer.
Great instructions Michael. My experiences installing the Micro Swiss hotend on the CR-10s were that same as yours, the upgrade was very easy indeed, I too had to raise the BL Touch 2mm by removing the spacers (nuts). Regarding the PID settings, I add them to the start gcode in S3D, it makes it easier to change the setting for different filaments, although I currently use PLA for the most part, I will be using PETG etc too after the Keenovo heatbed upgrade is done. I may well upgrade the cooling duct and fans at some point to because ..... well, why not :-)
Good to hear yours has gone well. I agree modding for the sake of it is addictive.
If you're using BLTouch you have flashed the firmware, so... why aren't you saving the settings to the eeprom? you forgot to enable it before flashing?
@@AlanGonzalez-om4rr Hi, I have flashed my firmware and enabled eeprom, running completely custom Marlin 1.1.9. I keep my PID settings in the slicer (S3D) so that I can have separate PID settings for individual filament types without needing to alter them in eeprom. I just find it easier that way. Either way is perfectly fine. Hope this helps
@@spikekent The PID have nothing to do with the filament, it's heater-oriented... You should change it if you q
@@AlanGonzalez-om4rr You're quite right, it is heater related, although, by definition it does affect the filament. However, by putting the PID settings in the start gcode in the slicer, it sends that code to the printer before the print starts, thereby setting the PID values for that print only. Thats why I find it easier this way. When I change to a different filament (say PETG) I have a profile for that, including different PID settings, so again, the PID values for that filament are used for that print. For example, the PID command for PLA in my slicer is this M301 P41.81 I6.63 D65.93 ; PID Values 215C Micro Swiss. The bits after the semi-colon are just comments to remind me of what the setting is for.
Awesome info! PID autotune via Octoprint!? So great, multiple options for setting PID values (eeprom, firmware, start code)
something i also do when mounting my hot end is make sure it is perfectly square with the bed because the holes have some play
Hopefully my v2 neo friends see this. Fellows, this upgrade will not fit our printers out of the box. I just got mine and learned this the hard way
Wow, I have a ton to learn. I saw the Merlin video that helped me understand what Merlin was, but I'm still confused by how fast you speed through your tutorials. I appreciate it a ton, but as soon as you got past the installation and got into the firmware, I was just completely lost. Then again, I'm new to 3D Printing. In fact, I have not even received my Ender 3 Pro yet (it comes in on Friday the 26th). I'm simply looking at tutorials so that when I do get my printer, I won't mess it up or be completely lost. I'm excited to upgrade my printer to get the absolute best quality out of my prints, but I likely won't do anything for a while. Regardless I enjoy learning and I will upgrade eventually. Maybe when I get my printer and begin upgrading, I will understand the more technical side of these tutorials. As of now, I want to upgrade: Motherboard to TMC2208 (for the silent steppers), All Metal Hotend, Direct Driver, Hero Me Fan Duct, and install a Raspberry Pi. I want to learn this info but I don't know any type of scripting or related software and it's all so daunting!
Be patient. The Ender 3 is capable of very good parts in stock configuration. If you don't initially get good parts in stock configuration it's tempting to start upgrading but I would caution against this approach. Over time you will learn to tweak your machine and this will serve you better than chasing every upgrade.
Another good one. Everyone forgets there is a reason for PTFE in the throat and they fixate on temps they will never use.
Also, NylonX (also at MatterHackers) only needs a bed temp of 60-65C, so more Nylon filament options for the Ender-3...
I would love to see a review / comparison video of a Micro Swiss all metal hot end vs a E3D Lite6, I would be very interested to know how they compare for the Ender 3..
Here I just asked on the FB group if they were the same bolt pattern. I been having issues with my Prusa getting the PLA stock in the heat break. Has worked fine for months and now cant get a single print to work. Ordered the Micro Swiss E3D Replacement that allows the tube all the way down the heat break. Hopefully better results.
I printed a Fang with 5015 Fan for my stock Tevo Tornado hotend. Just put on this same MicroSwiss on my TEVO but my Fan doesn't fit any more. I was able to find a modified Fang for Micro Swiss and BLTouch on Thingiverse. Thanks for the installation steps.. so very easy but I think my old heater and thermister are bad and I have new ones on hand.
gr8 videos always - i just bought a micro swiss hot end - could you tell me where i could and what i could buy to upgrade this cartridge heater - currently i only have a 12v ender 3 heater, waiting on my bigtreetech 1.4 turbo board - thank you
Big fan of your videos. I know this is an old one, but I wanted to ask, would I need to change the Thermisor on the stock ender 3 v2 to be able to print at 280 - 300° with this Micro Swiss hotend? I need to print some Nylon parts for a project and I am looking for alternatives to upgrade. Either this or the E3D V6 have my current interest.
I have ordered this for my CR10S Pro, I have a few quick questions about the PID tuning.
1. If I run the PID tuning, do we still up the temp about 5 degrees, or does the PID tune take care of that?
2. I usually run PLA, so I would PID tune for PLA temps. If I do a few PETG or other hi temp filaments, is it a good idea to retune the PID at those temps first? If so, is it a good idea to PID tune at each temp, take note of the values, and just edit the start code accordingly based on material?
Thank you and I notice that you say at the end that if you have a magnetic bed it wont go above 80 deg, Does that apply to the Ender Pro 3 Please? If so is it possible to replace the bed? I was hoping to print Nylon. Thank you , always good videos.
Thank you for this video. That's a lot of work if your not doing any high temp filament. It's also above the level of any novice as I had no clue as to what any of the software gcode stuff was that you flew threw. So, since there is no performance gain, I will stick with stock. You saved this noob a lot of money and time.
Amazing video, if this new Hot End comes supplied with a hardened nozzle, does this mean all previous print files need to be modified to increase the melt temperature, accounting for lower heat conduction from the HZ? If not can you still operate with a brass nozzle?
I've installed this hot end twice now according to the manufacturer instruction video. It continually jams after the first layer, using Inland PLA, and the stock extruder. I just built a vented enclosure and it didn't jam once before I put the doors on it. I've tried zero retraction, hotter temps, colder temps, I don't get it. Maybe heat creep? I completely disassembled it earlier and cleaned it out. I'm using a Petsfang Bullseye duct, also. Debating putting thermal compound inside the part that screws into the top of the heater block, something. I haven't moved the electronics outside of the case yet but I plan to, that may keep the heat down a touch also.
I have a question about tuning the PID, I use the Unified Firmware from TH3D, I realize that it is based on Marlin firmware so that said do I tune the same way as using the Marlin Firmware. I upgraded to the Micro Swiss all metal hot end and have done a few prints and they turned out quite well. I just lowered the retraction by 1mm and raised the print temp 5 degrees no problems so far.
Hey, your videos have been a great help setting up my Ender 3, must have watched the firmware upgrade one 5 times! Which Noctua fan is that and how did you fit it to the Ender 3?
Hi Michael, here is the video where I installed it. It is a 40x10, perfect so far but on paper a 40x20 would be even better. th-cam.com/video/yW9ovo9CHi0/w-d-xo.html
Can you please make Wanhao send you a Duplicator D9 and do a video about the Mark II upgrade kit. Love your tutorials.
Haha I can try. Thanks for watching.
Good afternoon, I know that being out of the topic, I have a problem when I am finishing a job, the entrepreneur ender 3 loses the line and gets to print in the air, and already two the tube that came with it clogged and got untouched, will that printer who loses the location must be because of the tube, if possible it will be because of the tube, if the capricorn tube is the best solution for me. Thank you, great channel.
Been using the stock hotend with Capricorn tubing and a hardened steel nozzle for printing CF nylon at 258 C. Running Marlin firmware.
Textured glass bed with glue stick.
Um.... does the Capricorn tubing have a different melt temp from PTFE?
I had one of these on my Ender 3 Pro. It sort of worked, but I was always fighting underextrusion and getting clogs with it, even after PID tuning, and adjusting retraction and temperature settings. I noticed when feeding filament that there seemed to be an excessive amount of friction in the system. In troubleshooting where I was getting that friction, I narrowed it down to the heat sink. As it turns out, the inside of my heat sink is not machined very well, and has noticeable roughness from the drilling process. Kind of like I often see on cheap nozzles.
where you able to solve this at all? I am running into the same issues.
@@jamescox973 I switched back to the stock hotend. Obviously won't help if you needed the all metal hotend for higher temp filaments.
@@neurokinetik64ES I ended up creating a new profile in my slicer and adjusting the retraction settings. Not sure what settings were causing it, but the issue hasn't re-appeared in my test prints so far
@@neurokinetik64ES @jamescox973 Having the same issue. Thought that All Metall is an Upgrade. But such system is so specific. Having clogs constantly all the time. Can't make it works. My direction is to change heatbreack to the PTFE one and compare. Next step is to change heatbreack to the one that allow PTFE tube pass to the nozzle and use high temp PTFE for nylon and PET printing. I heard about Capricorn PTFE as an 300 option.
Your thoughts on Micro Swiss vs E3D V6 ?
Did you experience "sticking" with PLA? If yes, did you consider polishing the filament path with a wool string and polishing paste?
Thanks for the great videos, they are extremely helpful !
At one point of the video you said you reduced retraction to 4mm and would explain later in the video but then didn't touch on it anymore. Could you explain why you dropped it back for the test ?
Many thanks
I can't explain exactly why he did it but with an all metal hotend if you retract too much filament has a tendency to jam because if you pull it out of the molten heat break area into the cooled part of the hotend it will jam. Seems like hotends with ptfe tube all the way down to the nozzle are less prone to this.
Did extruder’s bar screw can be inoxydable? Why did we use only small black carbon screw to lock the extruder hot end instead of long inoxydable? Does this change something ?Thank you
Helpful video! But I just installed my Micro Swiss in my stock Ender 3. Works ok. But when trying to print a bigger piece (200mmx180x4) of Nylon, it peeled a ton and I had to stop the print. I had the standard bed (sprayed with aquanet)... And it was set to the max temp of 260. Bed at 110. What is the problem? Do I need glass? Is the nozzle temp too low? Bed too low or high? Any ideas, because I'm at a loss?? Thanks!
Hi. Thanks for sharing. Does it fit the Ender-5 ?
Do the 4 rollers vs 3 rollers on the Y axis make any difference?
I'm thinking on getting the micro swiss direct drive extruder kit, but probably getting a 4 roller adapter or such, wouldn't make much sense as i'm thinking on putting a linear rail in my X axis too.
Just curious if the 4 vs 3 rollers make any difference
What size spanner do I use to tighten things down with? My kit didn’t include the spanner. Thank you.
I want to see some one install one of these on an old printer that has been used my old wires were so brittle they broke so I had to re wire it to the board know one on TH-cam shows any of the soldering it would be a big hit if you did this
Hello,
How much retraction distance and speed do you use with PLA?
I just installed my micro swiss direct drive on my Ender 3 v2. I've been trying to calibrate my e-steps, but when it starts to extrude it makes a horrible clicking/skipping/grinding sound.
I've adjusted the tension arm a ton and the only time it won't make the noise is when the screw is when the knob is barely screwed on, but then it doesn't seem to grip the filiament.
I had my stock ender 5 hot end fail and has petg covering it and the nozzle almost completely... i want to install this all metal hot end...the part that i wont be able to do is changing firmware for temps... is this really necessary??? cant i just use a hand held infared and check temps and if it says 220 on ender and my hand held unit says 200 just crank it up 20 degrees??? thanks
I’ve been printing ABS on an Ender 3 pro with removable magnetic bed for well over a month at 110C without any problems.
It's been a year now. Any problems longer term?
A Kalia none at all. Still printing ABS on the same removable magnetic bead.
@@JeffsAquaponics Thanks for the reply. I just went ahead and printed ABS at 100C on this machine, for the last 2 weeks. Only issue I can see is that the surface sheet can be peeled away from the magnet more easily when it is hot, i guess because the glue softens. Edit: The adhesive has now become a problem several days later leading to it pulling up and part warping as a result.
“Simply stunning”….👍🏻
Have one on my Voxelab Aquila and... works like a dream. Solid upgrade and very easy to do. Gonna mod my Merlin (alex's) firmware to crank up to 300c on the hotend. Great video in this channel to mod firmware. Waiting for it to cool off (in Phoenix) so I can vent ABS outta a window. Wanna try stuff like carbon black.
This hotend works great for PLA and PLA+... obviously... PETG and TPU. Doing 20 and 30% wood PLA+ now aa well. Just need a bigger nozzle like TPU. At least a .05. .06 seems to work better for TPU.
Yes... PID! Gotta do it. Very easy. Will get rid of most temp 112 (I think) kills too! I like to cycle a little higher. Like 15 cycles. PID that hotend!!!
I have been having problems with clogging with PLA, PLA+ and PETG on Ender 3 V2. I calibrated all the stepper motors and calibrated the e stepper twice. It prints the 20mm test cubes almost perfect with no problems, but when I try to print something medium to large, the e stepper motor slowly starts skipping and gets worse as the print goes on, eventually it completely clogs the hot end. I've ran different test in Cura and have tried different things in Cura like temps, retraction, extrusion and speed. I have wondered if a "bad" hot end would cause clogging, because after a week of troubleshooting I'm about to give this hobby up. :( I know my filament to good, I have printed lithophanes, medium size boxes, articulating butterfly, all kinds of stuff with no problems. I don't what happened or what changed.
Watched the micro-swiss vid on install dont see anything on software upgrade do i need to this PID for my cr10-max ?
Nice video.
I have not tested this hotend myself, but I got the microswiss heatbreak for my Prusa i3 mk3. It had already an e3d allmetal heatbreak, but I sometimes had clogging. With the microswiss heatbreak I had no clogging at all. The coating of microswiss seem to very good; it has less friction than other allmetal hotends.
Normaly allmetal means problems with PLA. So its a decision between PTFE Inliner (good in PLA but no high temperatures) or allmetal (good for high temperatures, but PLA on low temperatures tends to lower print quality).
So your video is very useful, as it shows you can use the allmetal microswiss hotend without loosing print quality with PLA.
I do not know if there are any allmetal hotends from china to compare. But If there are, adding an comparation to the microswiss would be useful. That should show a lower quality in PLA with an uncoated heatbreak. Trianglelabs even warn to use allmetal for PLA (and their chinese clones are the more quality ones).
So I think result should be: If you use only low-temp materials, stay to the stock hotend. But if you want the possiblity to print high-temp, using allmetal from microswiss will not reduce quality in printing PLA like other allmetal hotends might do.
Thanks for the detailed feedback.
Thank you!
good to know it doesn't really improve print quality. I love videos like this then i don't need to spend on mods I don't need!
Hi, I installed my Micro Swiss into my Ender 3 Max printer. Q: 1: why did you cut off about 1 inch of PTFE tubing before inserting it into the hotend? 2: The bigger question; Does the full 1" of tubing go into the hotend? I can only get a few mm to go into my hotend? Thank You
I'm getting a filament blocking occuring about 15 minutes into printing when using flexible filament??? I've upgraded my Ender-3 to have both the MicroSwiss Hot End and the EZR extruder (I needed the latter as previous to this the flexible filament was getting stuck in the extruder). So about 15 minutes in or so I hear the "clicking" noises from the extruder, that I'm guessing is indicating it can't push more filament through the hot end. I confirmed this when I tried to push manually the filament through the hot end. This has occurred for two types of filament I’ve tried.
I’m printing with:
* Temp in mid range for filament I’m using
* Print Speed: 25mm/s (although I just noted infill speed is 42mm/s & I’m doing 100% infill- potential issue?
* Travel Speed: 120mm/s
* Fan: 50%
* Retraction: NO
* Nozzle - the one that came with the MicroSwiss
Any suggestions?
Great video. Any plans on linear bearing on your Ender 3?
Maybe if I run out of other things to do on it.
Wow cool video. Thank you.
Teaching Tech, What Terminal Software are you using to access the Marlin Controls? It looks like a web browser. Will it also work when tweaking the BTT SKR?
Flashback to 2018. I just installed the Micro Swiss to my Creality CR10 Max.
Do I need to change the PID on this too?
I did print some things already (without changing the PID), and needed to put the temp up about 5c.
The benefit might also be in less chances of a clogged extruder. So that in itself is a gain.
Thumbs up
probably slightly more chance of a clog due to increased friction on the filament
it's actually the opposite
@@mailtome7654 What?
Thanks for the video, Michael. I am in the same boat as John T. The only thing I am thinking is I have started to try out printing with PETG now. And PETG prints at a temperature of up to 245 so wondering if I should make the change now.
No standard is fine for PETG and beneficial for all filaments other than PC or nylon.
I've been printing with Amazon Basics PETG at 240C for a couple of months now (with the Ender-3). No real problems, especially compared to printing ABS on my old UP Plus 2 -- there was always an odor problem with that!
Side-note: I did get odd fumes for the first few hours of printing (Ender-3), not sure if this was the kapton tape baking to the heater block or machine oil burning off.
The only big change I have done on my 'stock' Ender-3 is to replace the standard PTFE tubing with the Capricorn XS (PTFE) tubing. Still printing PETG at 240C without problems.
If you are concerned about fumes from the PTFE tubing then I suggest you setup *active* ventilation. I have an extractor fan in my workshop which I run when the 3D printer(s) are running.
Agree with everyone here, stock is fine for petg.
Do I have to do the computer stuff like what u did in the video or can I just install the hot end and get right to printing i never seen those programs and idk how or what to do with them
sorry for the long messages but im new to 3d printing haha.. i was curious could i still use my OEM hardware if i switch to the swiss hotend like you have in the video? like my fan covers and everything on my ender 3 max it has the dual fan cover and works nicely i would like to keep it but i dont want to waste $60 on it if i have to change the fan setup all around cause mine prints great i just wanted to be able to dfo more with it
stepper driver has voltage (extruder) but doesnt power motor on my ender 3, the cables test out as working, when i swap out the xyz, the extruder motor works - what is the next test ?
Nice video, thanks!
I am not sure if I understoodd correctly, but do you think that it can help to reduce the hotend clogging?
It reduce clogging when you print at higher than 240C, because the PTFE tube won't be melted by the all metal hot end.
It doesn't make a difference if all you print is PLA
Could you perhaps make a video, or message me direct, on how to successfully perform a cold pull with a microswiss? Because for the life of me i cant do it, the filament seems to jam before it enters the throat.
If I may ask what kind of thermistor can you put in ? Lately my old ender 3 thermistor died and I would like to buy high quality one instead of original spare part.
Impressive... How about the Ender 5??
Hello, i read some complains about problems with Micro Swiss. After using it can you recommend it? I want to upgrade my creality ender 3 hotend but if i am going to pay for a brand new hotend i want it to be better with better quality prints. Otherwise wich one would you recommend now?
Thanks for posting all the videos it is very helpful. Do I need to upgrade the thermistor on an Ender 3? I read somewhere that they were saying the stock thermistor is not accurate at higher temperatures. If I need to upgrade would anyone happen to have a suggestion on model and where to purchase a thermistor that would be suitable? Thanks!
Ive had nothing but trouble with this kit unfortunately.. nonstop stringing and oozing no matter how much i tune. about to switch to a v6
I've read that the insulating white material on the default Ender 3 thermistor is PTFE. Does that not make in unsafe to use above 250C?
Just five mins ago fitted to my stock Neptune 2 (custom Marlin firmware) and it's running the PD autotune when what comes onto my feed? Thsi video
I am wondering if the block is a similar geometry to the V6 block with the nozzle and heat break both being M6 threads.
If so, and upgrade to a cartridge thermistor could be possible.
I didn't measure but the threads on both sides of the heater block looked identical.
Would the max temp of the hotend need to be adjusted in the firmware or is there a less invasive way to adjust the max temp?
Do you think the e3d v6 or micro swiss hotends produce better quality prints with pla, or is this purely about higher temperatures?
Just did a Swiss Direct Drive upgrade with this firmware update. PLEASE help explain how and what firmware/code to modify for this new direct drive. I have no clue how to even get to any code to modify.
Printer: Ender 3 v2, BL Touch, Raspberry, Octoprint
PS. Getting back to printing & forgot about everything
I have a question how do you replace the bowden tube on a micro swiss
Query: how does this stack up with the creality MK10 hotend?
im newer to 3d printing but i have been wondering why nobody i have watched uses a torque wrench for anything? not complaining just curious as to why, because if you think about it, wouldn't you want everything torqued for the most part because you dont want it moving during print..? idk just figured it was weird that none uses one :)
Can you still use the standard nozzles of the stock hotend if you just print PLA?
after installing, I have been having bad under extrusion issues. any tips please :)
So I got it all setup but editing the PID won't let me exceed the hot end temp, I'm printing polycarbonate and need higher temps.
Can you review the microswiss direct drive kit?
Would I need this (or a clone) for printing ABS? Im just now getting into 2d printing and was wondering if it was necessary or useful for ABS
what is the max temp you can do with the stock thermester and heater cartage
Should i put thermal paste between the heatbreak and the heatsink aka the cold-end. I have some real nasty heatcreep.