I did add this hotend and it works very well. One note though for others ... when changing the nozzle be very careful not to just putting the wrench just on the nozzle to remove. Hold the hot end with one wrench and then loosen the nozzle with another small wrench. It is very easy to loosen the hot end from the titanium coupler causing a leak and have melted plastic seep out above the hot end ... drove me nuts for a while ... the nozzle does work nicely now. Thanks for the feedback. Later.
Hey Microswiss. Just mounted and tested. Wow. Original Creality hot end could not do 95mm/s, and later 70mm/s. More heat creep, more oozing. This new MS gave me 125mm/s for first test, and I guess it could be pushed to 150mm/s. All that with 0.24mm layer height. Incredible small powerhouse!
Installing this hot end is pretty straight foreword. The question I do have ??? Are there any changes that need to be made to the firmware. I’m thinking no, I’m not sure considering higher temps for other plastics.
I did this for a CR-10S a few years ago and it worked for about two months , then jammed solid. I suspect the retract settings needed to be adjusted so I’m happy to see you’ve added that to the tutorial. What type of nozzle is that to require additional heating (steel?)
Can someone please make a heaterblock holding wrench already? I'm sick of trying to balance a clunky adjustable and socket wrench and trying not break the heat break
Do we need to change anything in the firmware? For example the set distances between the nozzle and the BL Touch, I imagine those are not exactly the same anymore after the swap? And also, does it use the same awkward nozzle like the original CR10S Pro/V2 nozzles, or does it use the common MK8 nozzles?
Definitely use a torque wrench to ensure the nozzle is secure and tight. Missed that detail when I first installed. Worked for a while and then eventually leaked.. What a mess. Torque the nozzle, avoid the mess.
I'm considering ordering one of these but what is the upper temperature limit of the thermocouple that comes with the cr10s pro? As I only really see this as an upgrade if I can use it to reach higher all metal temps. Thanks
can you update the description to include the maxtemp setting for marlin. i'd like to print polycarbonate and from what i've been reading it requires a temp of anywhere between 290 to 310, if adjust the, ``` maxtemp ``` setting in marlin will it be alright to set to a maxtemp of 310ºC ? and at least include a maxtemp setting on your website so future people looking into purchasing this hotend know what the thermal limits are. cheers 🍩
@@Skipp3rBuds unfortunately the stock thermistor on the cr10s pro can not handle temperatures above 280º consistently, and will eventually fail when the hotend gets to a temperature ~ 300º thus causing the printer to halt.
One thing I’ll mention is this. Installing the Micro Swiss was a breeze. The only problem I had was mounting the unit back on the slide bracket. The original mounting screws are to long being the new block is a bit thinner. If there were suppose to be screws in the kit to accommodate mounting they just were not in mine. Anyway ... went to Ace and got a couple of metric screws and mounted it. After mounting just make sure it’s not wobbling around.
I had this problem and Microswiss sent me shorter screws next day. I ordered mine before they listed it on the site though so I'd hope they include them now.
@William Studdard Please make sure to level the bad after replacing the hotend. Also, please make sure that your BLTouch is set properly after replacing the hotend. If you'll having issues with the hotend, please send an email to support@micro-swiss.com and our team will help you out.
@William Studdard This a real comment? of course you level the bed after replacing the assembly lmao, if you have a probe like my printer does, set the compensation and it will be away.
Just an FYI: My CR-10S Pro came with the thermistor epoxied in place. It had wonky temp readings starting day one, I eventually got them to send me a new one so I could replace it (and obviously drill out the crap they put in it). Apparently they didn't think epoxy would act as an insulator. But if they are still doing this, it is going to require people to replace their thermistor.
I managed to remove the white epoxy without damaging the thermistor. Just use a very small pointy tool to slowly cut away the epoxy and eventually it came out clean.
I ordered it and will install it tonight. Can't shake the feeling that when you look at it it feels like maybe $5 worth of metal , to be paying $60 for it feels quite awkward.
you're paying for the technology it took to make it... the skill of the person running the machine to mill all the parts out... theres alot more to it then just some metal... so if you think you can do better for cheaper do it...
One of the main benefit with an All Metal hotend is that it allows to print at higher temperatures that are not possible with PTFE lined hotends. Also, with our hotend will convert your CR-10s Pro to regular M6 nozzles.
the stupid thing with the cr 10s pro ist, that it doesnt use standard nozzles, but rather ones with a special threading that you have to buy from creality. Thats why its so hard to get hardened nozzles etc. --> you cant use the original nozzle anymore, but just about every other nozzle you want.
You see no reason because you don't know enough about it. I PROMISE there's several good reasons. But I assume after that many years you probably know better by now lol
Does the Cr10s pro come stock with a all metal hot end? i cant find this anywhere on the official site or reddit. I'm trying to print with petg and no matter what retraction settings i use, i cant get rid of the stringing.
I have found Carbon Fiber reinforced PETG at 240/80 prints nicely. Using Swiss Micro hot end and hardened steel nozzle. It needs to have the nozzle height just right.
@@MicroSwissLLC Last thing, by chance, do I have to set something in the print settings after changing the hotend? and what are the differences with MK10? can I mount it or do I have to change everything again?
@@Gasrovescio The only setting that you will have to change is retraction. Set it to 4mm retraction distance. I'm not sure what you mean by MK10. The MK10 is used by different printers not Creality. If you mean the original CR-10 Pro hotend then yes, you can mount it back on without changing anything.
@@MicroSwissLLC Why only 4mm retraction? Im currently using 6mm because of the bowden tube is that going to pull the filament to far into the heat break?
Ii could not install my nozzle to the heater cartridge. I tried with the old nozzle, new nozzle and a micro Swiss nozzle i got last week but hadn't installed yet. Printer is down because my other hot end got clogged. no word from Swiss yet. :O( after studying this, it was obvious that the threads are different on the nozzles than on the heater cartridge. It looks like the thread on the cartridge should be one size thread for the top half of the titanium thermal break and a different thread on the bottom side for the nozzle. looks like they just went all the way through with the thread for the thermal break.
30 pound-inches on the nozzle? That's 3.3 newton-meters. Every 3D printing video on TH-cam I've seen on how to install this hotend all say 1.5 newton-meters on the nozzle. They even recommend specialty 1.5 nM torque wrenches. My torque wrench only goes down to 2 newton-meters and even that was giving me pause when tightening the nozzle.
Oops .... ran into a problem. Couldn’t setup the bed height. Like a dumbass I ordered the wrong unit. It was for a 10s not the Pro. Different length on the cooling block .... live and learn. If you notice there are 4 fins on the 10s and 5 on the Pro. New one ordered.
I did add this hotend and it works very well. One note though for others ... when changing the nozzle be very careful not to just putting the wrench just on the nozzle to remove. Hold the hot end with one wrench and then loosen the nozzle with another small wrench. It is very easy to loosen the hot end from the titanium coupler causing a leak and have melted plastic seep out above the hot end ... drove me nuts for a while ... the nozzle does work nicely now. Thanks for the feedback. Later.
Hey Microswiss. Just mounted and tested. Wow. Original Creality hot end could not do 95mm/s, and later 70mm/s. More heat creep, more oozing. This new MS gave me 125mm/s for first test, and I guess it could be pushed to 150mm/s. All that with 0.24mm layer height. Incredible small powerhouse!
Installing this hot end is pretty straight foreword. The question I do have ??? Are there any changes that need to be made to the firmware. I’m thinking no, I’m not sure considering higher temps for other plastics.
I did this for a CR-10S a few years ago and it worked for about two months , then jammed solid. I suspect the retract settings needed to be adjusted so I’m happy to see you’ve added that to the tutorial. What type of nozzle is that to require additional heating (steel?)
REDUCE RETRACTION TO NO MORE THAN 4MM.
Up the temp 5 degrees for taste.
Can someone please make a heaterblock holding wrench already? I'm sick of trying to balance a clunky adjustable and socket wrench and trying not break the heat break
Do we need to change anything in the firmware? For example the set distances between the nozzle and the BL Touch, I imagine those are not exactly the same anymore after the swap? And also, does it use the same awkward nozzle like the original CR10S Pro/V2 nozzles, or does it use the common MK8 nozzles?
Definitely use a torque wrench to ensure the nozzle is secure and tight. Missed that detail when I first installed. Worked for a while and then eventually leaked.. What a mess. Torque the nozzle, avoid the mess.
mine was way to far away from the bed and i had to remove the fan blower.
I'm considering ordering one of these but what is the upper temperature limit of the thermocouple that comes with the cr10s pro? As I only really see this as an upgrade if I can use it to reach higher all metal temps. Thanks
can you update the description to include the maxtemp setting for marlin. i'd like to print polycarbonate and from what i've been reading it requires a temp of anywhere between 290 to 310, if adjust the,
```
maxtemp
```
setting in marlin will it be alright to set to a maxtemp of 310ºC ?
and at least include a maxtemp setting on your website so future people looking into purchasing this hotend know what the thermal limits are.
cheers 🍩
As long as the power supply is ok with that amount of amp draw id say go for it.
Edit: also make sure to turn on All metal hotend in marlin
@@Skipp3rBuds unfortunately the stock thermistor on the cr10s pro can not handle temperatures above 280º consistently, and will eventually fail when the hotend gets to a temperature ~ 300º thus causing the printer to halt.
Try the new Prusament PC Blend. Expensive, but professional quality at 220 degrees.....
I thought the 'red clip' was/are to cinch the clip onto the tube so it doesn't slip.
hi. what temperature should the top part be that is blown by the fan?
One thing I’ll mention is this. Installing the Micro Swiss was a breeze. The only problem I had was mounting the unit back on the slide bracket. The original mounting screws are to long being the new block is a bit thinner. If there were suppose to be screws in the kit to accommodate mounting they just were not in mine. Anyway ... went to Ace and got a couple of metric screws and mounted it. After mounting just make sure it’s not wobbling around.
I had this problem and Microswiss sent me shorter screws next day. I ordered mine before they listed it on the site though so I'd hope they include them now.
Why would I want to do this mod?
you can use materials like carbon, which wear out nozzles faster, works better with flexible filaments etc.
To use different materials like Nylon, Carbon Fiber, etc
How hot can this thing go
Does this work for Creality CR10s Pro V2?
Yes, it works with Creality CR10s Pro V2
@William Studdard Please make sure to level the bad after replacing the hotend. Also, please make sure that your BLTouch is set properly after replacing the hotend. If you'll having issues with the hotend, please send an email to support@micro-swiss.com and our team will help you out.
@William Studdard This a real comment? of course you level the bed after replacing the assembly lmao, if you have a probe like my printer does, set the compensation and it will be away.
Just an FYI: My CR-10S Pro came with the thermistor epoxied in place.
It had wonky temp readings starting day one, I eventually got them to send me a new one so I could replace it (and obviously drill out the crap they put in it).
Apparently they didn't think epoxy would act as an insulator.
But if they are still doing this, it is going to require people to replace their thermistor.
yes i have some white paste stuff on my themistor too, but notice on this video there isnt any?
I managed to remove the white epoxy without damaging the thermistor. Just use a very small pointy tool to slowly cut away the epoxy and eventually it came out clean.
Same here...ive tried heating the block and cannot remove it. Somewhat frustrating
How I buy this if my country Malaysia
I ordered it and will install it tonight. Can't shake the feeling that when you look at it it feels like maybe $5 worth of metal , to be paying $60 for it feels quite awkward.
you're paying for the technology it took to make it... the skill of the person running the machine to mill all the parts out... theres alot more to it then just some metal... so if you think you can do better for cheaper do it...
Getting a lot of oozing. Should i add thermal paste to the thermal break?
I also got that with the stock hot end, just increase retraction
what is the benefit of this change? Where can we see the difference
One of the main benefit with an All Metal hotend is that it allows to print at higher temperatures that are not possible with PTFE lined hotends. Also, with our hotend will convert your CR-10s Pro to regular M6 nozzles.
yes and dont have to use propitiatory Creality nozzles
Micro Swiss LLC yes but if it’s the same tube an filament, what helps stopping the clogging??
@@MicroSwissLLC which types of filament in your opinion it cant print without your hotend?
@@tamgaming9861 It will print PLA and filaments that are under 260C melting point
Will the micro Swiss work on the cr10s pro2?
It will. Just finished installing it on mine.
Why remove the original nozzle? I do not see a reason.
I see also no reason
the stupid thing with the cr 10s pro ist, that it doesnt use standard nozzles, but rather ones with a special threading that you have to buy from creality. Thats why its so hard to get hardened nozzles etc.
--> you cant use the original nozzle anymore, but just about every other nozzle you want.
@@M.V.P. Micro Swiss sells Hardened replacements. I using one now.
the original is trash thats why...
You see no reason because you don't know enough about it. I PROMISE there's several good reasons. But I assume after that many years you probably know better by now lol
Does the Cr10s pro come stock with a all metal hot end? i cant find this anywhere on the official site or reddit. I'm trying to print with petg and no matter what retraction settings i use, i cant get rid of the stringing.
No, the CR10s Pro comes with PTFE lined hotend.
@@MicroSwissLLC thank you! Definitely getting the micro swiss now.
@@dr.leinhart9343 I have stringing too with PETG is this the curse metal hot end?
@@DennisMurphey PETG is just a very stringy sensitive material. some brands more then others
I have found Carbon Fiber reinforced PETG at 240/80 prints nicely. Using Swiss Micro hot end and hardened steel nozzle. It needs to have the nozzle height just right.
isnt the stock hotend already all metal
No
I would like to know if this model is intended as a MK8 or MK10?
It is MK8 (M6x1mm threads)
@@MicroSwissLLC Last thing, by chance, do I have to set something in the print settings after changing the hotend? and what are the differences with MK10? can I mount it or do I have to change everything again?
@@Gasrovescio The only setting that you will have to change is retraction. Set it to 4mm retraction distance. I'm not sure what you mean by MK10. The MK10 is used by different printers not Creality. If you mean the original CR-10 Pro hotend then yes, you can mount it back on without changing anything.
@@MicroSwissLLC I would highly recommend adjusting Z Offset and PID tune
@@MicroSwissLLC Why only 4mm retraction? Im currently using 6mm because of the bowden tube is that going to pull the filament to far into the heat break?
Ii could not install my nozzle to the heater cartridge. I tried with the old nozzle, new nozzle and a micro Swiss nozzle i got last week but hadn't installed yet. Printer is down because my other hot end got clogged. no word from Swiss yet. :O( after studying this, it was obvious that the threads are different on the nozzles than on the heater cartridge. It looks like the thread on the cartridge should be one size thread for the top half of the titanium thermal break and a different thread on the bottom side for the nozzle. looks like they just went all the way through with the thread for the thermal break.
30 pound-inches on the nozzle? That's 3.3 newton-meters. Every 3D printing video on TH-cam I've seen on how to install this hotend all say 1.5 newton-meters on the nozzle. They even recommend specialty 1.5 nM torque wrenches. My torque wrench only goes down to 2 newton-meters and even that was giving me pause when tightening the nozzle.
Oops .... ran into a problem. Couldn’t setup the bed height. Like a dumbass I ordered the wrong unit. It was for a 10s not the Pro. Different length on the cooling block .... live and learn. If you notice there are 4 fins on the 10s and 5 on the Pro. New one ordered.
30 inch-pound setting = for those wanting to use a torque wrench.
We added this kit to our CR10 Max - and made it fit ! th-cam.com/video/2RwNfR73RRo/w-d-xo.html
CR10S-PRO HOTEND/Nozzle is a problem with Retractation... I put 8mm with 80mm/s and still sringing... SO I buy this i will see... xD
How did that end up working out for you friend?
I am aware that's an old comment but whatever. Lol
“Place old hot end in garbage”...