Hey i am going to buy my first 3d printer but i am not able to decide which to buy ender 3 neo or anycubic cobra i am also new to 3d printing Please reply 🙏
@@oioindoor8155Im also new to 3d printing, and narrowed it down to the same 2 printers. I ended up buying the ender 3 neo not to long ago, and I like it. I still have problems with stringing, because I need to get better at the slicing software. I was using Creality slicer and was getting good results, but I’m moving over to cura slicer, and haven’t got the same results yet. The only thing I dont realy like about this printer is the hot end, and the drive system, direct drive sounds much nicer. However there are many upgrdes for this printer, and some are 3d printable upgrades… so thats nice. Hopefully this helps a bit if you haven’t already got one
When changing to an all metal heat break its important to reduce retraction distance or you're going to have problems. If you're running a bowden setup, 2mm retraction might be your new max. With direct drive, 1mm (or close to it) might be max. If you're trying to get fine details out of PLA, don't bother with all metal heat breaks as your bowden tube is doing exactly what it was designed to do. All metal is for plastics requiring more heat than PLA. Just one humble opinion.
@@FilamentFriday I wonder what the difference is then? In your print farm, what material are you printing with and at what temp? I'm using the all metal heatbreak for ABS at 230-235C. I was getting clogs until I reduced the retraction from 6mm to 2.2mm. Perhaps there was something else going on??
Don't need to write a book saying this post was EXCELLENT!!! This post perfectly explained the problem we were having and remedied it!!! Thank you!!!🙏👌
This is a perfectly timed video for me. I just bought a Diamondback nozzle so I can print all the abrasive filaments I'd ever want on my original Ender 3 (highly modified), but still have the stock hotend. I want to be able to print higher temp abrasives such as PA12 CF Nylon, so I just started looking into bi-metal heatbreaks. I think you just convinced me to finally make the switch!
Hi Chuck! Just wanted to let you know, I just put together my Ender3 Neo V2 and performed this upgrade as part of my assembly! Literally not a drop of filament went through the stock setup, and it has been working perfectly. I had an Ender 3 Pro a while ago that got hit by a lightning strike that fried all the electronics and motors so when I replaced it I tried a Prusa Mk3S+. I've come to realize that while the engineering is impressive, they're SERIOUSLY overpriced, and I'm glad to be back tinkering with an Ender again!
I genuinely wish these became the norm since I can not say how many times people go running ABS/ASA at 250+ and then go to do PLA and complain their PTFE is nuked/blame the company. Also, the breakdown products of PTFE are not something you want to be breathing either!
Hey, guys. This is awesome upgrade. However many, including me, have posted a difficulty in getting the new heat break to fit inside the heat sink. I just had to redo mine, since I messed it up the first time. I found that one heat break would not fit. But another one, ordered at a different time from same seller, purportedly the same item, would fit easily. So if you are having problems and can't get it into the heat sink, it may be a supplier/defect issue. Not required to make it hot and trade off the aluminum/copper heat expansion.
FYI: I have an Ender 3 Neo Max. I had to change my retraction time to 95 and my nozzle temp to 220 with PLA or the nozzle would clog. In the long run it will prevent the PTFE tube from getting destroyed but it's not quite plug n play.
This works fantastic on my ender 3 neo. I pair this and a brass/ruby nozzle for abrasive material. Reduce your retraction settings to 2mm at 80mm/s, and run a temp of 235 PLA, and 260 ABS. Carbon fiber PLA runs at 260 as well
The only issues I've had with all-metal hot ends is with PLA at lower layer heights (sub .2) with a .4 nozzle or if I try to iron the top of a print. As long as I'm pushing a good amount of plastic at a decent speed, the all-metal hot ends work well. I haven't tried a bi-metal yet and that might do a better job of keeping melted material from creeping up the heat break and causing a clog.
Thanks for the in-depth explanation. There is so much to learn about the art/science of 3D printing effectively, and it's videos like this that help me figure out what info applies to my setup.
I began modding a monoprice mini select a few months ago and this was one of the first things I did (along with replacing the entire hot end) and I accidentally got the 6mm diameter ones instead of the 7mm. But I got a 4 pack off ebay for $11 shipped. I couldn't imagine paying $17 for one of them. But then again I did wait 6 weeks for them to arrive from China but I wasn't in a hurry so it was fine. I had no end of clogs and ptfe breaking down and these things solved all of those issues. TBH this upgrade is a no brainer.
Thanks for this mate! I just had to perform my first nozzle change on my new ender 3 neo and had no idea how to get the guard off... Your video helped heaps!
This has to do with heat conduction, not absorption. Titanium is a very poor heat conductor but has a high melting temperature, which is why it's the metal of choice here. Copper is a very good heat conductor, which allows the heat to conduct to the filament near the nozzle.
All those fancy bi-metal arguments only give small incremental benefits. Just stainless steel all the way is better than having the PTFE tube going to the nozzle. Sure, a bi-metal heat-break will ensure better cooling at the cold-end because of the copper there and hence make the temperature of the fillament above the small section a bit lower, but if stainless steel can get this below the glass-transition point quickly enough, then the extra gain of the copper doesn't bring much. And the melting is done at the hot side, where you have either PTFE, stainless steel or titanium up to the nozzle, which all suck for transferring heat, but that's also the intention. So the melting is to be done in the nozzle, not the heat-break. So, I'd say: at least get a $2 stainless steel all-metal heat-brake replacement as even that cheap one will be much healthier than cooked PTFE!
@@MisterkeTube I'm guessing that you're right, that the bi-metal aspect is only slightly more than a gimmick. It would be good to do some measurements to see how much the flow rate is affected by going from pure titanium to the bi-metal design. I'll bet CNC kitchen has done it already. I haven't bothered to look.
Thank God I didn't buy the slice engineering one. You uploaded this at a perfect time since I just got my ender 3 v2 neo and was looking to upgrade this for longevity and it's so much cheaper.
Hi @Chuck what an eye opening video! Thank you! just ordered all metal heatbreak from the link you provided. I have Ender 3 v2 Neo as well. I am only buying this to stop PTFE tubing not to melt and block nozzle some day. My printer is new but it is best to be prepared from the start I guess. Cause by design the stock heartbreak is a time bomb. What I wonder is Titanium heat transfer characteristics? Do you have to increase hotend temperature slightly for PLA? I am printing PLA at 210 Celsius with stock heatbreak. I have an update! Bi-metal heatbreak came installed exactly just as Chuck instructed. It works beautifully much more filament is can be extruded from nozzle with this upgrade too! Plus I don't have to worry about my PTFE tube melted one day in middle of printing... This is just awesome upgrade Chuck Thanks Man! There is no need to upgrade to slice engineering's hotend with this bi-metal heatbreak upgrade! Only thing was not exactly is the heatbreak's outer diameter is half mm bigger so I sanded down a little and then outer shell become exactly 6mm then I could insert heatbreak into the heatsink easily.
Chuck,Thanks. So many people are clamoring for 300C nozzle. If you made a video on how to do that, it would be so cool. No one seems to do a good one on it. The biggest challenge is the firmware upgrade. I see that Creality has just offered a 300C printer, but in small format. A max with 300C would be so worth it. I have neo 3 max.
I fitted one of these to my max neo. Just caused a lot of stringing. I tried more retraction and did all of the speed temperature flow testing but nothing helped. Fitted the original and worked better.
I used the paste because I was getting thermal runaway on every 4th or 5th print. Adding the paste eliminated the problem. It's been 6 mo. since I added the paste and no thermal runaway.
Great video, Chuck! I spent $100 to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro, not aware of this printer which has all of the upgrades I purchased pre-installed. I'm still struggling through issues with my upgrades (and a possibly a failing extruder). If I'd known I could have purchased the Ender-3 Neo for under $200, I'd have just sold my Pro and purchased this one. I'd be way ahead! Hind sight, as they say...
I just bought and installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. Your video was very easy to follow. But I took a really good look at the bowder tube couplers while I had everything disassembled and I'm wondering how they are replaced. Can you help me out?
I've been using all-metal heat breaks in my Ender 3 and Sidewinder X1 for a while and wouldn't go back to a standard setup ever again. With the quality metal heat breaks out there and a little tweaking to your retraction settings, there are absolutely no advantages of having PTFE in direct contact with the nozzle (while there are plenty of drawbacks).
@@JPZEF On the Ender 3 with the Micro-Swiss hot end and direct-drive extruder, 1.5 mm at 35 mm/s seems to work for pretty much everything other than TPU (I last printed Ninjaflex at 0.2 mm and 50 mm/s). For the Sidewinder with either the Polisi3D or Trianglelabs bimetallic heat breaks, it's varied between 1 mm for PLA at 25 mm/s, 2 mm for PETG at 25 mm/s, and 0.5 mm at 20 mm/s for TPU.
Amazing Chanel I am in love, my ender 3 neo just arrived, I will play with it but I already put this piece of kit in my trolley. Especially because in short future I will use Petg and it will require higher temperatures.
Does it still work? :) I'm on my second attempt with this upgrade today. First time I got clogging after some 1 hour of print. Today I tried a heatbreak of a bit better quality + applied thermal paste - no clogging, but print quality is waaaay worse than with the stock option. Figured out that best retraction distance is not 2 mm (as people usually recommend) but 1.6 mm, it decreased stringing but it's still there. What changes in settings you had to make to get it working nicely?
Hey dude. Your videos are the best on TH-cam. I only watch yours and CNC kitchen (for filament and printing tips). However, the heat break is primarily due to the titanium between the top and bottom, which is a pretty good thermal insulator and doesn't conduct heat very well, not the diameter of the tube.
Thank you for this video. It seems Creality is mixing and matching things up a bit with their models. I have a CR-10 Smart with the same hot end shown in this video. I think the CR-10 Smart uses parts from the CR-6. I'm buying this from your link, as I switch filament often and want to gracefully transition from PLA / ABS / PETG / TPU as desired. This might just help with that.
Does this let me go past 260C in printing temp? Or do I need a better hot end? If so, which hot end works with the ender 3 neo? I have the ender 3 neo with sprite SE "direct" extruder (which really uses about a 3" piece of tube.
I wonder why my foray into the Slice Eng heat break created prints that were under extruded but only in spots with huge holes in the print. I went back to good ole hot PTF Tube and all is perfect again. I just wanted to reduce the amount of times I change the PTF tube but it's worth the work to have better prints.
Just wanted to stop in and say: Thank you for making this video. The replacement heat break you suggested in this video was the key solution to fixing the absolutely infuriating retraction issues I was having while trying to print anything that involved a lot of retraction. (It would end up clogging the tefflon tube, requiring it to be replaced every time!) With this new part, the printer finally can finish this prints without causing a clog, and i thank you i do have one thing to see if you know, though. Is the Neo compatible with the Ender 3 Pro's dual z axis upgrade? Have been thinking about getting that but it does not list the neo as supported. thanks again!
I ordered the same heatbreak, but it seems not all NEOs are manufactured equally. Even with the heatbreak cold and the heatsink heated to around 250 C I couldn't get it on to the heatbreak. I needed to result to sanding the heatsink down + use a hammer to get it on. Otherwise a grade upgrade! Are you planning to do more upgrade videos on it? BTW, Klipper firmware on the V2 Neo improves print speed without a reduction in quality immensely for this printer. Because of the all metal chassis, I don't have oscillation issues either. I've ordered an accelerometer to see how far i can push it with input shaping next.
Hola muchísimas gracias por el video!!. ¿Que distancia de retracción aconsejas ahora con este cambio en la Ender 3 v2 Neo?. Saludos cordiales y gracias por la ayuda!!
@@paco-medina Hola gracias por tu referencia. Si me permites darte un consejo, es demasiado rápido la velocidad de retracción, ojo que se puede quebrar en filamento, y demasiado alto la temperatura para PLA. Los valores que usas para compensar altas velocidades pueden jugarte una mala pasada en la parte mecánica. Por otro lado, usar bimetal en PLA no lo aconsejo, bajo mi experiencia, porque el material se tiende a pegar cuando no se usa un bimetal de alta calidad, es decir, un interior completamente liso. Gracias por compartir tu experiencia, igual forma te doy este consejo. Saludos cordiales!!
@@diegosebastiangrGracias a mi también se me hicieron bastante altos los valores, pero con la torre de temperatura es lo que mejor se ve, sigo haciendo pruebas puesto que apenas cambie a bimetal.
Hey chep what can i do to my ender 3 v2 neo to print carbon fiber nylon. Already got capricorn tubing, a bimetal heat break, and some steel nozzles. Do i need a better heater cartridge and some firmware? Or what else do i need? Not much info on the neos or any upgraded hot ends :(
Hi, i have the same printer and changed the barrel by a bimetallic one, the printers keeps clogging in the cold zone at the middle of the print. I trided from 0 to 4.5mm of retraction and from 20 to 50mm/s of velocity and keeps clogging. After days of trying i installed the old barrel with a capricorn tube
They offer a ceramic core version as well on the amazon link posted above. Has anyone tested this on an Ender 3 Max Neo? Is there advantage's to the ceramic vs the all metal?
I was about to order one for my Neo V1 as well but most of the bad reviews was of the ceramic version so I bought the regular one. The advantage is that ceramic conducts way less heat so there is even less heat soak up to the ptfe tube. I think it's unnecessary though as shown here, where the ptfe sits only gets to 100c ish. I believe the ceramic version may have less friction as well so it may help with clogs?
Hey Chuck, I know you're past the Neo by now, but I'm in a situation where I am unable to find anything in regards to my situation. I purchased a spider high temp. and high flow hotend pro, and find that the nozzle no longer reaches the bed, because of the blue touch and the fan shroud. Do you by chance know of a solution to this? A link, or a video, stl? I still have one working printer, the neo thermostat went out I guess, so I decided to upgrade, and now I'm stuck without a clue. I'm really sorry to burden you with this, but you are one of the better teachers here, so I'm hoping you will have at least a direction to turn to. Thank you .
@FilamentFriday I could do that, after waiting almost a month just to get this spider in, it kills me to not put it to work. I kept digging, I might have found some mounts that will help, gotta wait for my other printer to finish it's current project, if it works, I'll see if I can post a link to them, in case anyone else has this problem. Thanks for responding.
@@FilamentFriday I believe they did sent me the wrong one, I ordered from a different store and the one they sent fir like a charm, thanks for sharing this content, it has really helped me with my 3d printer
@@FilamentFriday I see. Very interesting. When I added mine to 2 different printers I was having issues with clogging. Changed my retraction settings and now they print beautifully.
@@jerryscott6924 what is you gcode star/end I fell that most of my issues with retraction are related with clogging when starting. I don't know if it is a bltouch related issue
Hi, I have had my creaity neo for about 1-1/2 months already, not printed on it, I ordered the all metal heat break. I wrote down the instructions, Where you say remove the filament, then use a racket to remove the nozzle. I have never used any filament yet, so excuse me for being dense, I would just proceed to remove the nozzle, right?
Good evening I own an Ender 3V2 Neo and I would like to change the extruder and hotend for a direct drive, which would be the best model for my printer. I use PLA+ and PETG in general. Thank you for your help. P.S. My motherboard and firmware allow a temperature of 250°C maximum.
Hi chuck. I hope You can help me. I changed the heat break to what you recommended but now my dual drive filament extruded is clicking and stops the filament from going into the hot end. Any thoughts? I’ve already taken apart the hot end and reseated the new heatbreak and made changes, but it is still happening.
Did you need to change your retraction settings? I put a all metal heatbreak in my Ender 3 Max and found that it appeared to be retracting melted PLA into the cooler section of the metal path and causing blocking. I have experimented with Maker;s Muse retraction tower everything in the range 2mm-5mm but nothing seems to be "perfect" - too short and stringing and blobbing is a problem (because of he bowden tube?) and too long it seems to jam as described. Its possible I might have a problem with the filament as what I have is getting a bit old, so I haven't tried everything yet, but I just wonder if there are any other things I should look out for, I would try a direct drive extruder (which I have but needs modifying to fit) but am worried about the extra weight on the wider X carriage and I can't afford dual Z right now even if one was available for this "frankenstein" printer.
@@FilamentFriday Hmm it may be something else then. I think I'll try getting some new filament just to eliminate that and then redo all the setup again.
I installed an all metal heat break on my Ender 3 v2 and had nothing but problems using standard PLA. It kept clogging. I tried about 5 diff filaments, same issue. So had to go back to the Capricorn tubing. Having said that, this all metal break works great in my other Ender where I print my own homemade PET at about 257C. Any thoughts on why I had issues with standard PLA?
How do you remove your filament? You have to push it out so it gets hot before pulling it out quickly or it will cool to fast and plug the all metal heat break.
@@mster50 okay. I never adjusted the retraction and left my Cura settings where it was 6mm I believe. That longer retraction could cause hot plastic to be pulled up too far into the heartbreak? I could see where that would then cool enough for the plastic to then adhere to the metal. With Capricorn tubing, likely that hot plastic wouldn’t stick to the Capricorn tube. And my my PET printer (runs hotter), the plastic may still be hot enough to NOT stick to the metal. So, good advise! I may reinstall the Slice heartbreak and try again. Thanks!
@@FilamentFriday it was clogging while printing. But in regards to removing. I heat up and when at temp, I push until I get quite a bit oozing out. Then quickly pull it back so that any hot plastic clears the hot end.
Any chance you can help me identify the two screws that go from the heat sink to the heat break? I got my neo refurbished and just noticed them missing after a clogged mess. It would be greatly appreciated.
Very detailed and informative video! Do you think it's possible or even beneficial to upgrade the Neo's print bed to spring steel sheet as well as the display to color? Thanks.
The thing that we’re probably all curious about… if it’s such a big improvement, why don’t manufactures just include an all metal part? The same way they still make inferior, plastic extruder arms, when they all fail so easily.
I think it is because PTFE hotends are more forgiving for bad retraction settings for beginners, but I feel the PTFE breaking down and clogging cause more issues than it fixes. Just my $0.02. I do wish they became the new norm but these machines are made to the cheapest possible price, and good upgrades be darned.
The heatbreak needs to be super smooth to not cause a clog. A ptfe tube is super smooth slippery, so doesn't have much risk of causing a clog. Not to mention cheap and readily available. If you are only gonna print with pla, then it is the better option. If you need high temp resistance, you have to go all metal.
Historically, all metal was a tradeoff because the large throated ones had heat creep, and bad manufacturing left internal lips to jam on. Modern style thin throated all metal is very different. It's still a tradeoff on Ender 3 & clones with the bad stock extruders just because there's more friction and the extruder is so borderline to begin with, but if you put on a good extruder it's all win.
Am waiting from China the direct drive extruder for my Ender-3 and i need your opinion.i have the upgraded heat break in stock. Its good idea to replace the heat brake on the direct drive or i will use the new direct drive how it is?
Idk what you plan to print that needs 300c but you SHOULD be able to print up to 300c with just a heatbreak and firmware swap. I don't recommend it. I would recommend all metal heatbreak,copper heater block,50w heater,high temp thermistor,custom firmware.
@@bleach_drink_me Yes, I have read that the thermistor and the heater should be used only up to 260, because they can measure to one only up to then, besides is at these ptfe, which releases toxic substances at higher temperatures. Do you have any recommendations for these parts (all metal heatbreak,copper heater block,50w heater,high temp thermistor)?
@@wadwdwdawdwdwd5129 I just realized this was for the neo hotend. Nevermind sorry. I thought it was for the Ender 3 v2 that I had commented on before. If you want I can see if I can find you some upgraded parts that will work for yours. You could simply install the heatbreak shown in this video, 50w heater,and the golf coast or similar m3 threaded 300c thermistor.
Hi. I just installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo following your instructions, however now my printer won't extrude filament. The nozzle is hot, the heat block is hot, but the filament isn't coming through. It's like the heat break is so efficient that there's not enough heat to melt the filament. Any ideas?
Hola, lo que puede estar ocurriendo es que no quedó bien instalado el barrel con la boquilla. Hay videos en TH-cam que explican cómo instalar y apretar en caliente para evitar fugas que ocasionen obstrucción. El problema debe ser eso ya que bien instalado no ocasiona problemas. Saludos cordiales!!
@@alexdewsnup3152 Yeah dude. It was the easiest thing in the end - you need to snip the filament at a 45° angle before feeding it in. Basically, the hotend is a little thinner than the filament so if it's cut straight then it won't fit. Basically need to get in a habit of cutting a 45° angle on the filament before feeding it in every time.
@@speakoid amazing. I always snip it angled, but was having a bit of despair moment after installing this new piece and not having any filament come out..gave it another snip after reading your comment and it’s working like it should! So glad. did you mess with any other settings (retraction, temperature, etc) to get this thing working well with your printer? Thanks in advance.
@@alexdewsnup3152 I did a retraction tower and ended up pushing it all the way up to 70 for the best results. Other than that it worked right out of the box.
Tried this with my V2 Neo and, unfortunately, no success. :( Printing starts well, but after some time (probably an hour) clogging occurs. From what I can say, it looks like the upper part of the heat break is getting to temperature where PLA softens, and clogging occurs. I really want to get is working, because PTFE after the first months of printing looks pretty bad, and I even haven’t started to print PETG yet. My plan is to try putting some thermal interface between hotend and radiator.
Did you ever find any solutions to your issue of clogging after 1 hour? After installing this piece, my ender 3 max neo has the same issue. Clogging after 1 hour and I can barely get the filament back out. Ugh!
Try adding 2 drops of mineral oil down the hotend works like seasoning metal once done you really don't have to do it again it seasons the metal and keeps it from sticking when it's soft.
I don’t recommend mineral oil. It gets on the bed. I use olive oil. It burns up like in a frying pan but lubricates well. th-cam.com/video/OG7We83M5gc/w-d-xo.html
@@alexdewsnup3152 actually, yes. I gave it another try, and it worked. Not sure if it was because of a different heatbreak (which probably was a bit better quality) or because of thermal paste I've applied, but no clogging now. Though, stringing got really bad. I spent a couple of days experimenting with printing parameters (retraction distance, retraction speed and nozzle temperature). At this moment I'm able to get more or less OK quality of prints, but: 1. Still not as good as I got with stock heatbreak. 2. I had to set nozzle temperature to really low values. Like 190°C, or even 188°C. More than 195°C stringin get's worse and 200°C+ it's really bad. In my currents settings, retraction is 2.4..2.7 mm @ 40 mm/sec and nozzle temperature usually 190°C. Now I'm waiting for the most expensive CR-6 compatible heatbreak I found on AliExpress (it's from Kingroon, and price is ≈4$ per piece, the one I'm using now was ×2 cheaper) and going to try also it. In general, I have a suspicion, that the cheap bi-metal heatbreak use not really titanium alloy for the part, which is inserted into the heatblock. If this part has high thermal conductivity, it makes melting zone a couple of timez bigger, which can cause filament oozing, which in turn causes stringing. Anyways, despite all troubles, I'm not going to return to the stock option, because I had my PTFE burned to the state when it started to cause clogging every 4 to 6 weeks, which is was not acceptable for me.
hey chep switch out the hot end and also switch to the capricorn bowden tube but nothing come out. Any ideads? ive torn it apart twice and cant seem to find the issue
For standard Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 to upgrade the hot end watch this video: th-cam.com/video/tYbL-O3FecY/w-d-xo.html
thanks mate from UK
have you ever considered making a Klipper video? What about the creality sonic pad which klipperizes any Ender?
will you be testing out the new titan extruder+ for the neo
pleas do more for Ender 3 Neo!!!
Hey i am going to buy my first 3d printer but i am not able to decide which to buy ender 3 neo or anycubic cobra i am also new to 3d printing
Please reply 🙏
@@oioindoor8155 ender 3 neo is awesome
@@oioindoor8155Im also new to 3d printing, and narrowed it down to the same 2 printers. I ended up buying the ender 3 neo not to long ago, and I like it. I still have problems with stringing, because I need to get better at the slicing software. I was using Creality slicer and was getting good results, but I’m moving over to cura slicer, and haven’t got the same results yet. The only thing I dont realy like about this printer is the hot end, and the drive system, direct drive sounds much nicer. However there are many upgrdes for this printer, and some are 3d printable upgrades… so thats nice. Hopefully this helps a bit if you haven’t already got one
@@gimmmy90yes it is😅
YESSSSS
When changing to an all metal heat break its important to reduce retraction distance or you're going to have problems. If you're running a bowden setup, 2mm retraction might be your new max. With direct drive, 1mm (or close to it) might be max.
If you're trying to get fine details out of PLA, don't bother with all metal heat breaks as your bowden tube is doing exactly what it was designed to do. All metal is for plastics requiring more heat than PLA. Just one humble opinion.
I print with all metal on my Ender 3 V2 every day in my printfarm with same 6mm retractions and no issues at all.
@@FilamentFriday I wonder what the difference is then? In your print farm, what material are you printing with and at what temp?
I'm using the all metal heatbreak for ABS at 230-235C. I was getting clogs until I reduced the retraction from 6mm to 2.2mm. Perhaps there was something else going on??
PLA at 205°C. 6mm retraction on bowden.
Don't need to write a book saying this post was EXCELLENT!!! This post perfectly explained the problem we were having and remedied it!!! Thank you!!!🙏👌
This is a perfectly timed video for me. I just bought a Diamondback nozzle so I can print all the abrasive filaments I'd ever want on my original Ender 3 (highly modified), but still have the stock hotend. I want to be able to print higher temp abrasives such as PA12 CF Nylon, so I just started looking into bi-metal heatbreaks. I think you just convinced me to finally make the switch!
Hi Chuck! Just wanted to let you know, I just put together my Ender3 Neo V2 and performed this upgrade as part of my assembly! Literally not a drop of filament went through the stock setup, and it has been working perfectly. I had an Ender 3 Pro a while ago that got hit by a lightning strike that fried all the electronics and motors so when I replaced it I tried a Prusa Mk3S+. I've come to realize that while the engineering is impressive, they're SERIOUSLY overpriced, and I'm glad to be back tinkering with an Ender again!
I genuinely wish these became the norm since I can not say how many times people go running ABS/ASA at 250+ and then go to do PLA and complain their PTFE is nuked/blame the company. Also, the breakdown products of PTFE are not something you want to be breathing either!
looking forward to more videos on the neo i just got one. so far i havent had a print fail. auto level is great
Hey, guys. This is awesome upgrade. However many, including me, have posted a difficulty in getting the new heat break to fit inside the heat sink. I just had to redo mine, since I messed it up the first time. I found that one heat break would not fit. But another one, ordered at a different time from same seller, purportedly the same item, would fit easily. So if you are having problems and can't get it into the heat sink, it may be a supplier/defect issue. Not required to make it hot and trade off the aluminum/copper heat expansion.
FYI: I have an Ender 3 Neo Max. I had to change my retraction time to 95 and my nozzle temp to 220 with PLA or the nozzle would clog. In the long run it will prevent the PTFE tube from getting destroyed but it's not quite plug n play.
Agreed, retraction settings need to be adjusted after installing this mod. What retraction settings have you found to work?
@@teamkinetixmedia 95 works great
@@elizabethdue4801 95 for what? 95mm/s retraction speed?
Excellent explanation about heatbreak! Clear as mountain creek water...
This works fantastic on my ender 3 neo. I pair this and a brass/ruby nozzle for abrasive material. Reduce your retraction settings to 2mm at 80mm/s, and run a temp of 235 PLA, and 260 ABS. Carbon fiber PLA runs at 260 as well
were you having trouble at the lower temps?
Wow.... the Comments sections for your videos is always such an eye openner for related issues to consider. Thanks for sharing.
Many times the comments are actually referring to other issues but blame it on heat break. So read cautiously.
Terrific explanation. Covers everything in less than 8 minutes. Worked perfectly. Thanks.
The only issues I've had with all-metal hot ends is with PLA at lower layer heights (sub .2) with a .4 nozzle or if I try to iron the top of a print. As long as I'm pushing a good amount of plastic at a decent speed, the all-metal hot ends work well. I haven't tried a bi-metal yet and that might do a better job of keeping melted material from creeping up the heat break and causing a clog.
I’ve had no issues with that.
I bought a pair of cheap bimetal heat breaks from Amazon three months ago for my Ender 3 for £8.99. I am still using the first one. They just work.
I have been desperately trying to find out how to get that front case thing off after i had a blob issue this is the only video ive found of it
Thanks for the in-depth explanation. There is so much to learn about the art/science of 3D printing effectively, and it's videos like this that help me figure out what info applies to my setup.
I run that same bi-metal heat break on my four CR-6’s, they work great saves the PTFE tubing and the headache of dealing with the burnt tubing.
Copper/Titanium ftw Titanium blocks heat, Copper radiates so this is perfect for heatbreaks
I began modding a monoprice mini select a few months ago and this was one of the first things I did (along with replacing the entire hot end) and I accidentally got the 6mm diameter ones instead of the 7mm. But I got a 4 pack off ebay for $11 shipped. I couldn't imagine paying $17 for one of them. But then again I did wait 6 weeks for them to arrive from China but I wasn't in a hurry so it was fine. I had no end of clogs and ptfe breaking down and these things solved all of those issues. TBH this upgrade is a no brainer.
Thanks for this mate! I just had to perform my first nozzle change on my new ender 3 neo and had no idea how to get the guard off... Your video helped heaps!
these heatbreaks are the best upgrade you can make for a ptfe lined printer (imo :) )
Awesome content as usual. Thanks Chep
This has to do with heat conduction, not absorption. Titanium is a very poor heat conductor but has a high melting temperature, which is why it's the metal of choice here. Copper is a very good heat conductor, which allows the heat to conduct to the filament near the nozzle.
All those fancy bi-metal arguments only give small incremental benefits. Just stainless steel all the way is better than having the PTFE tube going to the nozzle. Sure, a bi-metal heat-break will ensure better cooling at the cold-end because of the copper there and hence make the temperature of the fillament above the small section a bit lower, but if stainless steel can get this below the glass-transition point quickly enough, then the extra gain of the copper doesn't bring much. And the melting is done at the hot side, where you have either PTFE, stainless steel or titanium up to the nozzle, which all suck for transferring heat, but that's also the intention. So the melting is to be done in the nozzle, not the heat-break. So, I'd say: at least get a $2 stainless steel all-metal heat-brake replacement as even that cheap one will be much healthier than cooked PTFE!
@@MisterkeTube I'm guessing that you're right, that the bi-metal aspect is only slightly more than a gimmick.
It would be good to do some measurements to see how much the flow rate is affected by going from pure titanium to the bi-metal design.
I'll bet CNC kitchen has done it already. I haven't bothered to look.
Thank God I didn't buy the slice engineering one. You uploaded this at a perfect time since I just got my ender 3 v2 neo and was looking to upgrade this for longevity and it's so much cheaper.
The offbrand ones are kinda bad quality, the extra money for a Brozzl or Slice Engineering one is worth it
@@AniviaS if you live in the US
@@AniviaS problem is I have the v2 neo and slice doesn't make one for this hotend
Hi @Chuck what an eye opening video! Thank you! just ordered all metal heatbreak from the link you provided. I have Ender 3 v2 Neo as well. I am only buying this to stop PTFE tubing not to melt and block nozzle some day. My printer is new but it is best to be prepared from the start I guess. Cause by design the stock heartbreak is a time bomb. What I wonder is Titanium heat transfer characteristics? Do you have to increase hotend temperature slightly for PLA? I am printing PLA at 210 Celsius with stock heatbreak. I have an update! Bi-metal heatbreak came installed exactly just as Chuck instructed. It works beautifully much more filament is can be extruded from nozzle with this upgrade too! Plus I don't have to worry about my PTFE tube melted one day in middle of printing... This is just awesome upgrade Chuck Thanks Man! There is no need to upgrade to slice engineering's hotend with this bi-metal heatbreak upgrade! Only thing was not exactly is the heatbreak's outer diameter is half mm bigger so I sanded down a little and then outer shell become exactly 6mm then I could insert heatbreak into the heatsink easily.
nice job chep keep up the good work
Chuck,Thanks. So many people are clamoring for 300C nozzle. If you made a video on how to do that, it would be so cool. No one seems to do a good one on it. The biggest challenge is the firmware upgrade. I see that Creality has just offered a 300C printer, but in small format. A max with 300C would be so worth it. I have neo 3 max.
Awesome guide! Even though I've watched the previous ones it was still interesting to see.
Its working great , but you have to lower your extraction , from 5 mm tot 1.5 mm ...
What's your printing temp and retraction speed?
I fitted one of these to my max neo. Just caused a lot of stringing. I tried more retraction and did all of the speed temperature flow testing but nothing helped. Fitted the original and worked better.
1-2mm retraction distance. Your probably pulling the filament into the cold part of the hotend
I noticed you did not use thermal paste on the heat block? Would not that have helped more?
Not really.
I used the paste because I was getting thermal runaway on every 4th or 5th print. Adding the paste eliminated the problem. It's been 6 mo. since I added the paste and no thermal runaway.
@@joemusto5674what paste you used?
Great video, Chuck! I spent $100 to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro, not aware of this printer which has all of the upgrades I purchased pre-installed. I'm still struggling through issues with my upgrades (and a possibly a failing extruder). If I'd known I could have purchased the Ender-3 Neo for under $200, I'd have just sold my Pro and purchased this one. I'd be way ahead! Hind sight, as they say...
Excellent! Thanks a lot, Chuck! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I just bought and installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. Your video was very easy to follow. But I took a really good look at the bowder tube couplers while I had everything disassembled and I'm wondering how they are replaced. Can you help me out?
I've been using all-metal heat breaks in my Ender 3 and Sidewinder X1 for a while and wouldn't go back to a standard setup ever again. With the quality metal heat breaks out there and a little tweaking to your retraction settings, there are absolutely no advantages of having PTFE in direct contact with the nozzle (while there are plenty of drawbacks).
how are your retraction settings
@@JPZEF On the Ender 3 with the Micro-Swiss hot end and direct-drive extruder, 1.5 mm at 35 mm/s seems to work for pretty much everything other than TPU (I last printed Ninjaflex at 0.2 mm and 50 mm/s). For the Sidewinder with either the Polisi3D or Trianglelabs bimetallic heat breaks, it's varied between 1 mm for PLA at 25 mm/s, 2 mm for PETG at 25 mm/s, and 0.5 mm at 20 mm/s for TPU.
Amazing Chanel I am in love, my ender 3 neo just arrived, I will play with it but I already put this piece of kit in my trolley. Especially because in short future I will use Petg and it will require higher temperatures.
I put one of these in my Ender 3V2 Neo and man, what a great improvement! Thanks Chuck!
Does it still work? :) I'm on my second attempt with this upgrade today. First time I got clogging after some 1 hour of print. Today I tried a heatbreak of a bit better quality + applied thermal paste - no clogging, but print quality is waaaay worse than with the stock option. Figured out that best retraction distance is not 2 mm (as people usually recommend) but 1.6 mm, it decreased stringing but it's still there.
What changes in settings you had to make to get it working nicely?
@@arduino-org-ua Sure does!
Hey dude. Your videos are the best on TH-cam. I only watch yours and CNC kitchen (for filament and printing tips). However, the heat break is primarily due to the titanium between the top and bottom, which is a pretty good thermal insulator and doesn't conduct heat very well, not the diameter of the tube.
Will this eliminate the need to upgrade to a capricorn ptfe tube for example?
Yes.
Thank you for this video. It seems Creality is mixing and matching things up a bit with their models. I have a CR-10 Smart with the same hot end shown in this video. I think the CR-10 Smart uses parts from the CR-6. I'm buying this from your link, as I switch filament often and want to gracefully transition from PLA / ABS / PETG / TPU as desired. This might just help with that.
Does this let me go past 260C in printing temp? Or do I need a better hot end? If so, which hot end works with the ender 3 neo? I have the ender 3 neo with sprite SE "direct" extruder (which really uses about a 3" piece of tube.
Would this make capricorn ptfe not necessary anymore?
Correct.
@@FilamentFriday I believe Capricorn tubing would still offer reduced friction / tighter tolerance for the filament traveling in a Bowden printer?
it will work even better if you put thermal compound before installing it !
I’ve found no improvement in previous testing.
Good info. Thanks ❤. Anybody really measure the temperature at the heat break?
works like a charm!
I wonder why my foray into the Slice Eng heat break created prints that were under extruded but only in spots with huge holes in the print. I went back to good ole hot PTF Tube and all is perfect again. I just wanted to reduce the amount of times I change the PTF tube but it's worth the work to have better prints.
Just wanted to stop in and say: Thank you for making this video. The replacement heat break you suggested in this video was the key solution to fixing the absolutely infuriating retraction issues I was having while trying to print anything that involved a lot of retraction. (It would end up clogging the tefflon tube, requiring it to be replaced every time!) With this new part, the printer finally can finish this prints without causing a clog, and i thank you
i do have one thing to see if you know, though. Is the Neo compatible with the Ender 3 Pro's dual z axis upgrade? Have been thinking about getting that but it does not list the neo as supported.
thanks again!
Very instructive. Thanks for sharing.
Great video and explanations !!!!
Thank you very much 😀
Nice Install!
great tutorial! thanks
I ordered the same heatbreak, but it seems not all NEOs are manufactured equally. Even with the heatbreak cold and the heatsink heated to around 250 C I couldn't get it on to the heatbreak. I needed to result to sanding the heatsink down + use a hammer to get it on. Otherwise a grade upgrade!
Are you planning to do more upgrade videos on it?
BTW, Klipper firmware on the V2 Neo improves print speed without a reduction in quality immensely for this printer. Because of the all metal chassis, I don't have oscillation issues either. I've ordered an accelerometer to see how far i can push it with input shaping next.
Hola muchísimas gracias por el video!!. ¿Que distancia de retracción aconsejas ahora con este cambio en la Ender 3 v2 Neo?. Saludos cordiales y gracias por la ayuda!!
Hola, en mi caso con una impresora igual estoy haciendo pruebas y me funciono asi 2 mm 80mm/s a 220ºC para PLA, para PETG 225ºC 5 mm 30 mm/s
@@paco-medina Hola gracias por tu referencia. Si me permites darte un consejo, es demasiado rápido la velocidad de retracción, ojo que se puede quebrar en filamento, y demasiado alto la temperatura para PLA. Los valores que usas para compensar altas velocidades pueden jugarte una mala pasada en la parte mecánica. Por otro lado, usar bimetal en PLA no lo aconsejo, bajo mi experiencia, porque el material se tiende a pegar cuando no se usa un bimetal de alta calidad, es decir, un interior completamente liso. Gracias por compartir tu experiencia, igual forma te doy este consejo. Saludos cordiales!!
@@diegosebastiangrGracias a mi también se me hicieron bastante altos los valores, pero con la torre de temperatura es lo que mejor se ve, sigo haciendo pruebas puesto que apenas cambie a bimetal.
The hotend is the same that cr 10 smart ?
Hey chep what can i do to my ender 3 v2 neo to print carbon fiber nylon. Already got capricorn tubing, a bimetal heat break, and some steel nozzles. Do i need a better heater cartridge and some firmware? Or what else do i need? Not much info on the neos or any upgraded hot ends :(
Can the neo hit 260C? If so all I would reccomend is a heated chamber and a filament dryer, nylon loves to soak up all the moisture in the air.
Hey CHEP can you review the Crealty Sonic pad with klipperand see if it is better than the raspberry pi version of klipper?
Hi, i have the same printer and changed the barrel by a bimetallic one, the printers keeps clogging in the cold zone at the middle of the print. I trided from 0 to 4.5mm of retraction and from 20 to 50mm/s of velocity and keeps clogging. After days of trying i installed the old barrel with a capricorn tube
J'ai exactement le même problème, j'y comprend rien.
They offer a ceramic core version as well on the amazon link posted above. Has anyone tested this on an Ender 3 Max Neo? Is there advantage's to the ceramic vs the all metal?
I was about to order one for my Neo V1 as well but most of the bad reviews was of the ceramic version so I bought the regular one. The advantage is that ceramic conducts way less heat so there is even less heat soak up to the ptfe tube. I think it's unnecessary though as shown here, where the ptfe sits only gets to 100c ish. I believe the ceramic version may have less friction as well so it may help with clogs?
Can you please do a video on the Sonic Pad…. There are no good instructional video on TH-cam as you do.
By chance are you going to do a review for the Creality Sonic Pad?
Working on it.
@@FilamentFriday Great news! Waiting for it!
Hey Chuck, I know you're past the Neo by now, but I'm in a situation where I am unable to find anything in regards to my situation. I purchased a spider high temp. and high flow hotend pro, and find that the nozzle no longer reaches the bed, because of the blue touch and the fan shroud. Do you by chance know of a solution to this? A link, or a video, stl? I still have one working printer, the neo thermostat went out I guess, so I decided to upgrade, and now I'm stuck without a clue. I'm really sorry to burden you with this, but you are one of the better teachers here, so I'm hoping you will have at least a direction to turn to. Thank you .
Have you thought about restoring it to the original setup with a new Neo hotend assembly?
@FilamentFriday I could do that, after waiting almost a month just to get this spider in, it kills me to not put it to work. I kept digging, I might have found some mounts that will help, gotta wait for my other printer to finish it's current project, if it works, I'll see if I can post a link to them, in case anyone else has this problem. Thanks for responding.
@@JoshuaMeland Any success with the mounts for the Spider? I have a similar situation with my Max Neo. Thanks in advance!
@drlandmark you will need a small round file to tidy up the bolt holes alittle, but the mounts worked like a charm.
@@JoshuaMelandso you got the spider working?
hello chep can i ask what i your retraction settings on ender 3 neo?
I orederd from link, the heat break didn't fit the heat sink at all 😢
Maybe they sent you the wrong one. Is it too small? It’s fits the Ender 3 Neo which is a larger diameter.
@@FilamentFriday I ordered from the link and it fit my ender 3 neo. Installed and ordered my 3d printer/hot end and installed within the last month.
@@FilamentFriday I believe they did sent me the wrong one, I ordered from a different store and the one they sent fir like a charm, thanks for sharing this content, it has really helped me with my 3d printer
Yeah, just about destroyed my hot end trying to get it wedged in there.
@@chrisb1601 Me too.
I want to try an all metal hotend, but TPU is my main filament that I use in my small business so I'm hesitant.
He didn't mention you should change your retraction settings when installing an all metal heat break.
I don’t. So I didn’t mention it.
@@FilamentFriday I see. Very interesting. When I added mine to 2 different printers I was having issues with clogging. Changed my retraction settings and now they print beautifully.
@@jerryscott6924 How are your retraction settings now?
@@JPZEF they are good. Went from 5mm and 45mm/s to 2mm and 25mm/s.
@@jerryscott6924 what is you gcode star/end
I fell that most of my issues with retraction are related with clogging when starting.
I don't know if it is a bltouch related issue
hi, can you change the black fitting on top of the heatsink for a normal one ,please.
I replaced the black plastic one on mine with a metal one from the Creality replacement kit.
I got the thermal runaway out of the box did I do something wrong I followed the instructions
Hi, I have had my creaity neo for about 1-1/2 months already, not printed on it, I ordered the all metal heat break. I wrote down the instructions, Where you say remove the filament, then use a racket to remove the nozzle. I have never used any filament yet, so excuse me for being dense, I would just proceed to remove the nozzle, right?
Yes.
Good evening
I own an Ender 3V2 Neo and I would like to change the extruder and hotend for a direct drive, which would be the best model for my printer. I use PLA+ and PETG in general. Thank you for your help.
P.S. My motherboard and firmware allow a temperature of 250°C maximum.
Hi chuck. I hope
You can help me. I changed the heat break to what you recommended but now my dual drive filament extruded is clicking and stops the filament from going into the hot end. Any thoughts? I’ve already taken apart the hot end and reseated the new heatbreak and made changes, but it is still happening.
sounds like heat-creep. Reduce retraction and temp.
Thanks for your review!!! You're doing very well!!😛😛
Would this be worth doing over getting a swiss hot end? Thanks!
My neo is printing great, but the prints are cementing to the bed. I'm down to 50° with the hot end at 205°.
Could your nozzle be a touch too low? I adjusted my z offset up slightly and the prints were much easier to remove from the bed
Did you need to change your retraction settings? I put a all metal heatbreak in my Ender 3 Max and found that it appeared to be retracting melted PLA into the cooler section of the metal path and causing blocking. I have experimented with Maker;s Muse retraction tower everything in the range 2mm-5mm but nothing seems to be "perfect" - too short and stringing and blobbing is a problem (because of he bowden tube?) and too long it seems to jam as described. Its possible I might have a problem with the filament as what I have is getting a bit old, so I haven't tried everything yet, but I just wonder if there are any other things I should look out for, I would try a direct drive extruder (which I have but needs modifying to fit) but am worried about the extra weight on the wider X carriage and I can't afford dual Z right now even if one was available for this "frankenstein" printer.
I didn’t change mine.
@@FilamentFriday Hmm it may be something else then. I think I'll try getting some new filament just to eliminate that and then redo all the setup again.
@@IanSlothieRolfe Dry your filament
Will this heat all metal heat break work on an Ender 3 Max Neo?
Yes. They have the same hotend.
I will hot end upgrade be enough to be able to fun PETG filament? Thank you very much in advance> :)
Thanks
I installed an all metal heat break on my Ender 3 v2 and had nothing but problems using standard PLA. It kept clogging. I tried about 5 diff filaments, same issue. So had to go back to the Capricorn tubing. Having said that, this all metal break works great in my other Ender where I print my own homemade PET at about 257C. Any thoughts on why I had issues with standard PLA?
Retraction length should be 2.5mm, speed 50mm/s
How do you remove your filament?
You have to push it out so it gets hot before pulling it out quickly or it will cool to fast and plug the all metal heat break.
@@mster50 okay. I never adjusted the retraction and left my Cura settings where it was 6mm I believe. That longer retraction could cause hot plastic to be pulled up too far into the heartbreak? I could see where that would then cool enough for the plastic to then adhere to the metal. With Capricorn tubing, likely that hot plastic wouldn’t stick to the Capricorn tube. And my my PET printer (runs hotter), the plastic may still be hot enough to NOT stick to the metal. So, good advise! I may reinstall the Slice heartbreak and try again. Thanks!
@@FilamentFriday it was clogging while printing. But in regards to removing. I heat up and when at temp, I push until I get quite a bit oozing out. Then quickly pull it back so that any hot plastic clears the hot end.
@@KevinGroninga3D Correct - what’s happening is you’re retracting soft plastic into the heat break, where it rapidly cools and hardens
Any chance you can help me identify the two screws that go from the heat sink to the heat break? I got my neo refurbished and just noticed them missing after a clogged mess. It would be greatly appreciated.
#3. Nice to see. Thanks a lot
Very detailed and informative video! Do you think it's possible or even beneficial to upgrade the Neo's print bed to spring steel sheet as well as the display to color? Thanks.
Iv upgraded the bed from glass to pei flexi bed (it’s prity much spring steel on magnetic sheet just with some fancy coating
yeaa, after this upgrade my ender 3 neo stuck at extruder heating, it's either to cold or to hot :(
Sounds like you need to PID tune your nozzle temp
@@pantherpigeon3048 actually that was it(thanks google), works like a charm now, many thanks
Thank you sir.
is the same as the TC4 sold on aliexpress?
The thing that we’re probably all curious about… if it’s such a big improvement, why don’t manufactures just include an all metal part? The same way they still make inferior, plastic extruder arms, when they all fail so easily.
I think it is because PTFE hotends are more forgiving for bad retraction settings for beginners, but I feel the PTFE breaking down and clogging cause more issues than it fixes. Just my $0.02. I do wish they became the new norm but these machines are made to the cheapest possible price, and good upgrades be darned.
The heatbreak needs to be super smooth to not cause a clog. A ptfe tube is super smooth slippery, so doesn't have much risk of causing a clog. Not to mention cheap and readily available. If you are only gonna print with pla, then it is the better option. If you need high temp resistance, you have to go all metal.
Because they have tons of this stuff in stock and it must be sold first XD
Historically, all metal was a tradeoff because the large throated ones had heat creep, and bad manufacturing left internal lips to jam on. Modern style thin throated all metal is very different. It's still a tradeoff on Ender 3 & clones with the bad stock extruders just because there's more friction and the extruder is so borderline to begin with, but if you put on a good extruder it's all win.
Cost - bimetal heatbreaks a precision item = expensive. Ditto with metal extruder arms.
Any recommendation for a CR-10S?
I have a standard Ender 3 Pro. I wonder if there is a heat break for my printer as my Sunlu PLA+ filament needs 230C.
The video I linked to is the one to use,
@@FilamentFriday Thanks for your help. Best wishes.
I have been looking to install a bi-metal heat break on my cr-6 se, have you tested how well this works on that?
No, let me know.
I also replaced the homo-metal on my Ender3 v.2.
Hi chep, will this upgrade work on the ender 3 neo max?
yes
@@skyfator Hi there! Just wondering, have you tried this upgrade on the ender 3 neo max?
@@kubecraft954 No, but I ordered it yesterday for my max neo. It has the same dimensions as the other neos, so it will work.
@@skyfator Please keep me updated after you’re done! I’m looking to do this upgrade, but have not found anyone who has done this on the max neo.
@@kubecraft954 alright, check this 2 days from now
Am waiting from China the direct drive extruder for my Ender-3 and i need your opinion.i have the upgraded heat break in stock.
Its good idea to replace the heat brake on the direct drive or i will use the new direct drive how it is?
Is this a good idea for a normal ender 3?
Yes but follow my other video linked in description.
Up to what temperature can you print with this upgrade?
What upgrades are needed to raise the temperature to 300°?
Idk what you plan to print that needs 300c but you SHOULD be able to print up to 300c with just a heatbreak and firmware swap. I don't recommend it.
I would recommend all metal heatbreak,copper heater block,50w heater,high temp thermistor,custom firmware.
@@bleach_drink_me Yes, I have read that the thermistor and the heater should be used only up to 260, because they can measure to one only up to then, besides is at these ptfe, which releases toxic substances at higher temperatures.
Do you have any recommendations for these parts (all metal heatbreak,copper heater block,50w heater,high temp thermistor)?
@@wadwdwdawdwdwd5129 not sure what happened to my other reply but I posted the asin number from Amazon. If you don't see it let me know.
@@bleach_drink_me i cant see it
@@wadwdwdawdwdwd5129 I just realized this was for the neo hotend. Nevermind sorry. I thought it was for the Ender 3 v2 that I had commented on before.
If you want I can see if I can find you some upgraded parts that will work for yours.
You could simply install the heatbreak shown in this video, 50w heater,and the golf coast or similar m3 threaded 300c thermistor.
Would this work for the Ender 2 pro? They appear to have the same setup.
If you use the one from slice engineering I show in the linked video.
Hi. I just installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo following your instructions, however now my printer won't extrude filament. The nozzle is hot, the heat block is hot, but the filament isn't coming through. It's like the heat break is so efficient that there's not enough heat to melt the filament. Any ideas?
Hola, lo que puede estar ocurriendo es que no quedó bien instalado el barrel con la boquilla. Hay videos en TH-cam que explican cómo instalar y apretar en caliente para evitar fugas que ocasionen obstrucción. El problema debe ser eso ya que bien instalado no ocasiona problemas. Saludos cordiales!!
I know this comment was a while ago, but I’m having the same issue. Did you ever solve this?
@@alexdewsnup3152 Yeah dude. It was the easiest thing in the end - you need to snip the filament at a 45° angle before feeding it in. Basically, the hotend is a little thinner than the filament so if it's cut straight then it won't fit. Basically need to get in a habit of cutting a 45° angle on the filament before feeding it in every time.
@@speakoid amazing. I always snip it angled, but was having a bit of despair moment after installing this new piece and not having any filament come out..gave it another snip after reading your comment and it’s working like it should! So glad. did you mess with any other settings (retraction, temperature, etc) to get this thing working well with your printer? Thanks in advance.
@@alexdewsnup3152 I did a retraction tower and ended up pushing it all the way up to 70 for the best results. Other than that it worked right out of the box.
Tried this with my V2 Neo and, unfortunately, no success. :(
Printing starts well, but after some time (probably an hour) clogging occurs. From what I can say, it looks like the upper part of the heat break is getting to temperature where PLA softens, and clogging occurs.
I really want to get is working, because PTFE after the first months of printing looks pretty bad, and I even haven’t started to print PETG yet.
My plan is to try putting some thermal interface between hotend and radiator.
Did you ever find any solutions to your issue of clogging after 1 hour? After installing this piece, my ender 3 max neo has the same issue. Clogging after 1 hour and I can barely get the filament back out. Ugh!
Try adding 2 drops of mineral oil down the hotend works like seasoning metal once done you really don't have to do it again it seasons the metal and keeps it from sticking when it's soft.
I don’t recommend mineral oil. It gets on the bed. I use olive oil. It burns up like in a frying pan but lubricates well. th-cam.com/video/OG7We83M5gc/w-d-xo.html
@@alexdewsnup3152 actually, yes.
I gave it another try, and it worked. Not sure if it was because of a different heatbreak (which probably was a bit better quality) or because of thermal paste I've applied, but no clogging now.
Though, stringing got really bad. I spent a couple of days experimenting with printing parameters (retraction distance, retraction speed and nozzle temperature). At this moment
I'm able to get more or less OK quality of prints, but:
1. Still not as good as I got with stock heatbreak.
2. I had to set nozzle temperature to really low values. Like 190°C, or even 188°C. More than 195°C stringin get's worse and 200°C+ it's really bad.
In my currents settings, retraction is 2.4..2.7 mm @ 40 mm/sec and nozzle temperature usually 190°C.
Now I'm waiting for the most expensive CR-6 compatible heatbreak I found on AliExpress (it's from Kingroon, and price is ≈4$ per piece, the one I'm using now was ×2 cheaper) and going to try also it.
In general, I have a suspicion, that the cheap bi-metal heatbreak use not really titanium alloy for the part, which is inserted into the heatblock. If this part has high thermal conductivity, it makes melting zone a couple of timez bigger, which can cause filament oozing, which in turn causes stringing.
Anyways, despite all troubles, I'm not going to return to the stock option, because I had my PTFE burned to the state when it started to cause clogging every 4 to 6 weeks, which is was not acceptable for me.
@@FilamentFriday it's not for lubrication, the point is to get it vaporated to create seasoning in the inner part of tube I guess.
If using this heat break would I be able to use nylon filament?
Possibly. Depends on the nylon.
hey chep switch out the hot end and also switch to the capricorn bowden tube but nothing come out. Any ideads? ive torn it apart twice and cant seem to find the issue
Same here. I think its the fan not cooling properly