Two Color Print Using Z-Offset Plugin in Cura
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มี.ค. 2021
- Chuck shows you how to create a Two Color Print Using Z-Offset Plugin in Cura. He shows you how to take two separate files and make a two-color 3D Print and how to set it all up using the Z-Offset Plugin because Cura doesn't offer a Z-offset by default. Check it out on today's Filament Friday.
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Thanks! Pause and filament change sometimes fail because the printer looses position from the man handling of removing of the filament. This will work better.
so true. I ran into so many print fails cause of this
I even tried sending locking the steppers with sending the gcode and it took it but the z-axis moved and print was toast
@@kzukez exactly!
Or you could uncheck the "remove empty first layer" setting on Mesh fixes and it will print it in the air where you place it :D
Exactly. @CHEP should pin it
Slick.
Those who have a BLTouch can just reslice w/o any extra features and it'll home off the previous part. The previous part has to be under the Z probe location though. The prime line might not play nice, but 🤷🏼♂️. Just snatch it by hand.
You are on fire with these short tutorials. I love em! Now I just have to wait who knows how long for creality to either send me a new CR6-SE or the parts to fix mine, before I can try this!
Update, March 11th: After almost 2 weeks of back and forth with creality, it will take at least 15 days to get the repair kit and new power supply....I hope!
You made my day! I was disappointed the pause didn’t work on my ender 3, but not I can do multi color prints! I have already successfully done a couple smaller prints. Thanks so much!
It is so much more easily in Prusaslicer
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us. 👍😁
Are there any benefits on doing multi color prints this way??
I've been doing Pause at height plug in for my prints.
Pause at height doesn't work for some of the newer touchscreen printers like Ender 6. M0, M25 and M600 all don't work.
CHEP....I FINALLY found your video, on the Z-Offset Plugin. Your instruction(s) and help via your video, is JUST what I needed !!! It's the perfect option, for nice "clean" backgrounds when printing at 20-25% infill. THANK YOU for the HUGE help !!!!
You can make cura auto-align the models by exporting them on the correct place from tinkercad and after importing them in cura select both and right click -> "Merge Models".
Also, you should mention that cura already has suport for multiple materials if you change your printer settings to act as if you printer as multiple extruders. Then you can put some custom extruder switching code as well to make it pause or something.
You are a life saver!!! I was going to loose my mind!!!! I was meticulous in swapping the filament....yet the second colour dug into the print ...... grrrr..... I then stumbled upon your video.....and voila!!! THANK YOU 1,000,000x!!!!!
Love it. I've had this idea for a while. Glad there's a simple plugin that does it for you instead of messing with the G code manually.
Another winner! Thanks for all you do for 3D printing!
Another perfect CHEP tutorial! Do what you said in video, and the result is perfect! Thanks for all of your informative videos. Also I want to inform that I didn't have any issues about stick to the first print.
Another short, very helpful video Chuck. You da man!
Thank you Chep. Followed your guide and used z offset successfully - first attempt! Awesome
Worked like a charm in Cura 5.0 using ironing, Thanks Chep.
Very nice Chuck. Thank you for the introduction of the excellent plugin.
I was scratching my head the other day trying to do this. Thanks!
I just tried this out and it worked perfectly. Thanks!
Geez, can't get any simpler than that! I've been looking at g-code solutions and such for my Ender 3 S1, and ran across your video. I've installed the z-offset and will have to try this out sometime. thanks for a great solution!
thank my dude. Straight to the point and dont miss a step!
WOW!!! Thank you for this quick tutorial. Im gonna print so many things now. I might try to do 3 colours mix this way.
You've done it again Chuck , another great tip. Thank you
Epic video. I didn't know that you designed the world renowned chep cube!
Thanks for another great video, Chuck. I always learn something here.
I just found your channel. Great! So helpful I just switched to cura so you have been incredibly helpful! Thanks for the great content!
Cool keep exploring these plugins!
That's a great use of that plugin. Great tip Chuck.!!
This has given me tones of ideas! Thank you so much.
Love your videos I stumbled across another way to do this without z offset. Position the first layer so the homing sensor will touch it then start homing after the first layer. Print the letters flat on the bed in cura and the nozzle will be exactly the right height above the printer bed to print the letters. Don't forget to rehome after your finished.
great tip, well explained 👌
you guys are legends.
Wow didn’t expect to see you here
Good idea! This way the base layer before the text will be much cleaner.Thanks a lot
Great video! I can think of a few other ways I might could put this plugin to use, for my 3D printed RC projects. Thanks for sharing!
WOW! Great Tip!!!
Great fix for the creality printers that don’t recognize pause @ command like Ender 5 pro! Thank you
Perfect love multiprints in a single print
Wow thanks that’s exactly what I want to do. Color text on another printed background. Thank you 💕
Really, really interesting! 😃
Thanks a lot, Chuck!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you. I will try this tonight!
Thanks! This will work better then pause and filament change as those I have found may knock the printer out of position.
I have an Artillery Genius that doesn't understand Change Filament commands and is flakey with pause, so this is a great workaround.
One thing to consider is the purge line on the second print. It's fine for low-height models but you risk the gantry wiping it out for taller models, so it would be a good idea to edit the start Gcode to either omit the purge line altogether, or better still, move it to the back.
I Love all your vids !!!! I had to figure out that, for those of us with the BL Touch the probe re-homes before every print. And it probes over the base and the nozzle is 3 mm over the base. I just took off the 3 mm offset in Cura and then let the BL touch go to work. Resulting in a great print thanks to your tutorial.
Acon Man can you explain how you took off the 3 mm offset in Cura and still get the BL touch to not interfer with the second color?
3:25 I can see the corners lifting on the black base layer. A skirt (or raft) would of helped.
3:50 Imo, rounded corners would have looked nicer than those square ones. The badge would have matched up better with the Ender's rounded cover. Cool though.
Mind blown, thanks for the great idea
Hey Chep, nice video, you can do this without a plugin and as a bonus it will show the item raised over the bed in the preview. Just print one line anywhere on the bed (the purge line doesn't count). The easiest way I found is to add a support blocker, make it a normal model and resize it to be only 1 line (it could be just a dot, but for retracting and priming purposes, a little line works best).
another great tip! thanks again! CHEP Rocks!
At the end of the first job, you need to edit the gCode so it doesn't turn off the heat bed. Otherwise the bed will cool, first part will pop free. Then "later when I come back" your job is ruined.
I'd also edit the gCode of the second job to Z +15mm at the very start. That way it is above the existing part by a lot. When it moves into position it will fly over and down, landing on top of it instead of potentially colliding with the side; depending on where your seam XY is. IE: If the seam starts in the back right corner the head may not have gotten to the full Z height in time normally.
My master, I learned a lot thanks to you, I recommend you to the people around me.
Thanks
Good advice. Problem is, I hate changing the filament.
So freaking ingenious! Thanks for this man
Beautiful. I disliked pausing to change filaments at layer height, as my last Ender 3 could never "resume" without scrapping a print. I was scared to even try on my v2 until now, thanks!
Thanks for the help, this video helped me a lot
Thanks again chep ! Well thought. You are a smart Guy : )
cool as always! by the way, the "iron" option is very suitable for printing both parts of this logo
Just do a Filament change in Cura when you hit the level you desire. No need for 2 stl files.
Srly! With Jyers‘ Ender 3 V2 firmware the M600 command works perfectly well - even with pop ups and all.
This whole video is unnecessary. Cura and PrusaSlic3r have a simple way of just adding an m600 wherever you want and the code automatically triggers a filament change
3D Bengineer - I’ve covered those in previous videos. This shows how to add Z Offset.
@@FilamentFriday indeed, useful information to have even if the function to do this exact example is easier using other methods. Nota bene.
@@Schnabulation such a shame they don't have it working in stock. But this is the double-edged sword of open source and cheap ;)
so simple, so awesome
Actually this helps me with one customer project alot. Dont have to glue them together... Thx!
I been trying to do the same thing for a while. With no success. Now I know what I need, the plug-in, thanks...
Oh this is clever. Great thinking and work.
Proof that even with limitations, we can take advantage of them to our benefit; with a little tweaking.
Thanks for the information.
I think we can print more then two layers using your way. Thanks a lot!
as always good idea and good you man !
Thanks for the vid it was really helpful. along the way I also accidentally figured out that if you have a cr touch and the first print is under it, than it offsets it automatically!😄
genius
Hello CHEP. Thank you for this very practical tip. On a machine like my Ender S1so with a CR Touch, there is no need under Cura to shift the overlay. Simply leave the part in place, the G28 takes into account the thickness of the part and prints on it. Only the purge strips are done in vacuum.
Thanks again.
Your comment saved me. I have a s1 and I was wondering how it would react with the CR touch. I took out the x offfset and the second color printed perfectly. Thank you.
Thank you very much for your comment! I needed to print a second color over the first one with a other gcode file in my Ender 3 S1 Pro and it works perfectly how you said! God bless you!
You sir, are a genius.
Nice to see you using tinkercad, as for I still use that as well if I’m not on fusion.
Great video! Thank you!
Hi, excellent tutorial. If you can help me with a question. I have a CR-6 Max, and before each print, it automatically homing, touching its nozzle to the bed. If the print is in the center of the bed, the homing will be affected by the height of the initial layer, and also, with the nozzle already heated, it will damage the already printed layer. Is there any way around this? PS: I want to make large prints, which will necessarily be in the center of the bed.
Well explained and useful.
Can also be used when printing stuff on plywood/mdf.
I really like your videos. They are something I always come back to. Im not a patreon yet but I am a subscriber. I would like for you to make a video on how to set the Z offset on a CR-10 mini. I have seen that you use them. I have manually raised the nozzle and tried to initialize the EEprom and store settings. but it won't save the settings. I somehow did this when I first received the printer ,but I can remember how. Thanks. When ever I see a question on facebook I always reply with check out CHEP video's on YT. You have answered a lot of my problems already with your know how. I have been following you sense I got a Da Vinci AIO some time in 2015. Keep the knowledge coming.
Thanks again!!!
Kccr Print
David
Awesome
Might need to modify end code so that the bed stays hot !!!
I have glass and no hair spray and they pop as soon as bed hits like 45°!!!
Awesome info! Thanks!
Hi Chuck, thank you for your videos - the way you explain the details makes it so easy to follow and I already using so many of your methods. I am using a single nozzle Ender 3 V2 Neo with CR touch. I am in the process of printing a Pokemon chess set for my son. I would also like to do a custom chessboard to go with the set. Given that the surface of the board has to be flat, I was wondering whether there is a way that I can put the symbol down first and then print over it (sort of a reverse of what you have done in this video)? Any suggestions are welcomed. Thank you again for your great content.
This is a great option for those who'd rather not "stand by" their printers waiting for an M600. If you're using a bed the prints remain adhered to after cooldown you could even print the bottom part one day, then come back the next day to print the 2nd color.
Thanks, that is easier than manually splitting a gcode (that is what I have been doing since none of the gcode pauses work with Anycubic printers)
did this work for you? i also have the same issue with my anycubic
You just nailed it! salute to you! you got the like and subscribe!
Lol. That’s what I sent the SASE to get same sticker for exactly same spot on my Ender3pro. But I like the idea of 3D. Thank You
Great video, thankyou
This is a great alternative for filament change as sometimes the gantry may move during changing filament.
i do a lot of filament changes and if the gantry moves i just auto home it again, and then resume the print (octoprint).
Exactly, just add a G28 after the filament change. I edited the python file for the pause at height plugin so it does it automatically for me. Works great!
You've more than earned my subscription at this point. Thanks for all your help!
You are an amazing person
Great explanation of the Z offset! Let's say you were going to print 10 copies of your logo doing this, but wanted to print them all at the same time. How would you position the second file to perfectly match up with the 10 prints of the first file?
Try using Cura's Multiply feature. Import your base, multiply but do not modify Cura's (sometimes far from optimal) placements of copies! Slice, print. Change filament etc. Now import the top, multiply (see above...), use Z-offset. As long as your up/down portions have the same shape Cura will multiply them into the same places...
Awesome tip!
Great tip! It worked on my parts. What printer head is that? My ender 3 is different
This seems like a slightly different version of the filament change process I use on my Sidewinder, the firmware for which does not have the M600 command enabled. However, one thing I see that your method lacks is a way to ensure the lower layer stays stuck to the bed - the filament change procedure I use on the Sidewinder requires a little cutting, copying, and pasting in the gcode to slice one file, separate them into top/bottom layers, remove the command that turns off the bed heater on the bottom file, and remove the prime strip for the top file.
I've made a couple different things this way, the neatest of which was a scannable QR code for the guest WiFi in my house, and it provides a good balance of control over the filament change itself (particularly with avoiding ooze falling onto the print) and print quality.
I believe you can achieve the same result by unticking the "remove empty first layers" setting in Cura. This will allow you to slice a model exactly as it is loaded into cura, whether it is up in the air or not. Maybe handy in certain cases in conjuction with the z offset plugin
That's what I have been doing for a while now
Looks promising.
Some fillet on the corners would have been nice to match the motor's contours.
Filament change is definitely a feature worth tinkering with bootloaders and Marlin firmware over.
Filament break? Nozzle jam? Or the much more rare case you actually want to do what it's named for?
Boom. All taken care of, just send the command or put it in your gcode, load, purge, click the button.
yep that is use full thank`s
Great video and super simple! Just wondering, I have auto bed leveling and use the probe as my z limit switch. I could just get rid of the g29 but the g28 will still try and probe in the center. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Hello Chep, Great!
I seems it's possible in ideamaker to make this type of print. under other/ global offsets/ z offset.
Totally awesome
Did you purge the black before starting the red?
Please model in the corner radius though, that's bothering me :D - Great work!
Thank you.
Brilliant!!!
I think it's much more simpler to do a color change in PrusaSlicer. I don't really see the benefit of this technique over the other. You say you can change it when ever you want but depending on the build plate it might not be true if the first part releases itself. To each their own I guess. Is Connor Hellebuyck really your son??!
3:30 You can see the corners are warped on the upper and lower right of the first print. It's ever so slightly lifted, but still noticeable.
Hi Good job!