Simple and quick method of adding white lettering to your 3D printed parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- This video explains how to quickly add white lettering to any 3D printed parts using white silicone. It was developed as part of the AuthentiKit project - a freeware project focussed on creating high quality replica flight controls for flight simulation. The printed parts used in this demonstration are trim wheels for the Mustang P-51D vintage warbird.
Find out more about AuthentiKit: authentikit.org
Download the trim wheels for free: download.authentikit.org/file...
Many many thinks to Stiggles (Discord ID) for the original design work of these trim wheels which I adapted to fit the AuthentiKit system. - เกม
Fantastic Job! Absolutely beautiful!
This is exactly what I need. Engraved letters are too narrow to paint but you need something to make them stand out. My only concern is that this looks like a lot of effort, but until I get a dual filmament printer, it's a great option.
Thank you so much for introducing me to this technique! Quite fascinating!
I used lightweight spackling compound in my P-40 throttle. I even used it in the "P" of a prop lever from a real Shakespeare throttle quadrant that I restored. So far, it's working, but I'm thinking of applying some clear paint over the knobs to help seal the lettering a bit better. Thanks for the video!
That’s a great technique! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks, I gave up on my Spitfire IX trim wheel after making a mess of my airscrew lever. Now I'll be able to go back to it with confidence!
Just randomly stumbled onto this, wandering through 3D print videos. If you're able to manually swap out colors, you can model the letters as a separate object, and simply print them in white, right in the same layer as the black part. I made some custom key caps for my steno keyboard with this technique in Prusaslicer (set up 2 extruders, and check the box for single print head, and it'll auto-add the color change code, which pauses the print, moves the head out of the way, and beeps to let you know to change colors). These were printed face-down, for geometry reasons, but also to get really smooth faces, and I just made the legends one layer in thickness. I couldn't get Prusaslicer to do the obvious thing - just print the letters, then switch colors and print everything else - so it made me switch twice - printed surround in white, switch to black, print letters, switch back to white, print the rest - but two switches isn't too much work. You could also do this on a top face. With white letters, you may need 2 layers to get the opacity you want, but again, it's only maybe 4 manual color swaps in all. Here's a little gallery of the results: photos.app.goo.gl/ESNPo86SNm2ZRxNF8
Hi, thanks yes, we're doing this now for a few things but it works best when the top surface is flat. When there's a curve it's a bit tricky.
@@AuthentiKit cool! It's fun, but I feel like your technique gives a more authentic look.
Looks good. Trying to color fill some printed fire handle caps for my 737.
Good work bro. That helps a lot. Thanks for sharing.
cool technique
Print the letters raised instead of sunked, print in white. Spray paint black, then take a file and fub down the letters. Simple.
Nice idea. Thanks!
Printing with two different colored filaments could make that one too. But this one is also a very interesting approach. But i recommend to use the smooth surface feature in Cura slicer for the top finish, to have it not stick else where then just the lettering. Those parts would be ideal for that slicer setting.
Good suggestion - the ironing thing?
@@AuthentiKit Yes
Very nice!
You might consider making the letters a wedge shape so that the silicone won't peel out as easily.
Also I wonder if there are dyes you could add for different colors.
What a great idea !
I'm so excited for the P51 parts! I should recieve my 3d printer next week and can't wait to get started. I'm having a hard time finding the "rig" on amazon in the US. The only ones I find have one single clamp. I feel I might regret that if I buy it. 😕
mount-it.com/products/mount-it-dual-monitor-desk-mount-for-13-27-inch-screens-mi-752
this looks a lot more fun than hours of sanding in thight spaces
Agreed - I have no patience for that!
I have used this technique before, but I prefer to use painters caulk. I even added some acrylic glo in the dark paint.
Doesn't it tend to stick in the print grooves?
@@AuthentiKit it’s acrylic, so I use a spatula to get it into the recessed text and then a damp cloth to remove the excess.
I'll need to try that , thanks!
@@AuthentiKit I sent a message to your authentikit fb
painters/decorators caulk is designed to be painted over. When I've used it in the house without painting over, over a period of time (months) it turns grey and mouldy, pretty horrid. then its a stinker to remove. I'd stick to silicon. .
What about using thinned enamel or other type of paint, put in a syringe and squeezed into the lettering grooves?
I've been using regular spackle not the quick dry or lightweight. You put it on like frosting making sure it's all the way into the crevices. Let it get dry overnight. Sand the Spackle off and use a damp cloth or toothbrush. Personally I've been spraying my 3D prints with a clear coat
A latex or rubber coated glove may also help rubbing it off.
Is there a good clear treatment you can put on top to really solidify the lettering once you've cleaned it up? Like a spray on clear acrylic or something?
Not sure myself though I've never felt it needed it as long as the silicone is in securely.
Fantastic. How did you get those parts so perfect though?
0.12 layer, printer is fairly dialled in but not exceptional
Wood putty filler works really good also.
Could be. One factor is how easily it can be wiped off when it gets where you don’t want it
What depth of engraved text have you found works best?
More can be better to stop the silicone dragging out when wiping it off - 1mm - 1.5mm is pretty good.
mashallah you have a great voice ❤️❤️❤️
Peter Serafinowicz, is that you?
I think this would be easier with just some white nail polish, thinned out with acetone, and injected into the embossed lettering with a blunt syringe
Yeh, tried that. Great when you don’t slip or it clogs and blurts out. Mess is hard to remove.
What is comparable here in the US? Dawn liquid dish soap?
That would do it
Wouldn't a white permanent marker with a fine 1 or 2mm tip do the same job but quicker?
I've bought a ton of markers, paint pens, syringes for paint/whiteout. You need a really fine tip with some depth to not catch the edge and a reliable flow of the paint/ink. I sometimes touch up with a paint pen but haven't found it effective for the volume.
@@AuthentiKit OK, then I am gonna try it your way. Seems simple enough 🙂 Thanks
6:15 something reminds me of Bob Ross gere....😉
You need white wood filler my man. Smear it on then immediately wipe with damp cloth, done. no peeling, no waiting, no mess.
Sounds well worth a try. Thanks!
Better then a brush is a piece of soft foam dip it in fairy 🧚♀️ and gently dab on your surface even over the letters. Just saying 😉
Ps another tip..the brand Motec has filler spray. Get the black one spray that on 3x and gone are the little grooves it won't affect the deeper letters.😉
I'd rather have printed one or two layers of white PLA so that it would be visible on the bottom of the letters and then continue with black PLA. Would have been a lot easier imho.
Its an option, but then you get a white ring round the edge you need to colour over
@@AuthentiKit True. Might still be less work.
I agree , it would be. 30 seconds with a sharpie.
Video is way too long, I just watched you clean parts with detergent for 4 minutes. Edit, man!
Surely the engaging commentary made it all worth while :-)
No, it really doesn't
Get someone to teach you how to fast forward, little whine box.
Comment is way too long
TH-cam has a video speed option that works well for this kind of video.