(How) I finally got rid of these blobs!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ม.ค. 2020
- I'm currently testing the Alfawise U30 Pro and the Ender 3 Pro in a side-by-side comparison. The Alfawise showed strange blobs on parts, even printed in vase mode, which is very unusual. Let me show you how I fixed that problem with a quite un-common slicer setting!
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@Riggs Oliveria
Normally good leveling eliminates rough backsides.
Rafts are also not known for generating good surfaces.
I think you have much to google now ;)
For example: 3D Printing Tutorials
@Riggs Oliveria
If backside means first layer side and if it looks not good as you say...
Either is your extrusion multiplier too high (too much comes out)
Or its leveled too near
Or your extrusion multiplier is too low.
Without pictures, nobody can say what your problem is, thats why you have to search your errors and find it out yourself.
I guess you are very new to 3d printing.
Maybe find an facebook group in your native language.
That will help.
Greetings :)
Another excellent video Stefan!
Excellent research, especially important to 8bit printers
Thanks for doing a deep dive on the GCODE. I think it's something that is often wrongly overlooked on all the channels. Getting more information out into the open source world helps accelerate development throughout community.
I love how the title is not clickbait, the thumbnail is not hiding the answer, the video is right to the point, and the scientific approach. We’re never losing time watching your videos! Don’t ever change that please!
Engineering approach. Scientists rarely reduce stuff to practice.
Jup thumps up really good👍🏼...
But as a German I can say: his pronunciation hurts😂😂😂.
Thats usually his M.O. :thumbsup:
This is exactly why I just subscribed
@@jonasbrandt7733 he has a nice German accent, thank god he's not Swiss. xD
Stefan I love how your mind works. No guesses, pure measurements. This is awesome.
@_ David _ It was a testable hypothesis, though, and was tested with data. This is science.
@_ David _ well isn't everything a guess then, or at least started as one. Testing it is what makes it out of a guess.
@_ David _ He didn't guess he observed. It's also clearly shown in the video using a slow-mo video. Maybe you should start to guess less and observe more?
@_ David _ you got some egg heads mad lol
In many cases it is better to decimate the mesh as this might cause small errors when each layer gets simplified separately. 👍
And how are you supposed to do such thing?
@@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations I'm only just getting started with it, but Blender has a "Decimate" tool which is apparently very effective in the latest version and will reduce the complexity of your mesh with limited drops in visual quality.
Is there such a tool available in prusa slicer?
@@Pascal_Robert--Rc_Creations You could also use Meshmixer which is very simple, compared to Blender. I think Blender is a bit overkill here.
The other question is how would you know in advance that your print will blob. It seems like you would need to pre analyze the g code like Stefan did, then make a determination based on the number of small print moves (which would be a pain for each print)...
You sir are a life saver, I tired retraction, temperature, flow, coasting. I couldn't get rid of the zits on my prints. This setting cracked it thanks so much!
the 0.05 and 0.5 graph showed the beauty of this channel. AWESOME !
Brilliant. Uncovering and explaining "hidden" slicer settings is extremely valuable for the typical 3d printer user. Thanks for putting in the time and effort to figure this out.
I love this type of short video. All of us who 3d print have troubleshooting experience like this - solving small problems. Its good to see it so well documented.
Instead of adding new features, CURA/UM should just add diagrams and pictures like what you show at 3:35 in an info box next to each setting. There's no point in adding a million settings if the user doesn't know what they're changing.
Good point!
Most settings are described on their website Cura wiki. But yea its hella confusing sometimes. Same with the new retraction minimum distance settings.
Download the CURA Settings Guide plugin. That will add a lot of pictures to the tooltips.
@@CNCKitchen Thanks for the tip!
Yay! Picturs!
I ran into this with a stock Ender 3 a few months ago when I was testing faster print speeds. Found the issue only showed up at higher speeds and with meshes that were too detailed. Reducing mesh and/or setting up the slicer resolution solved the poor surface finish completely.
It's a good setting to tweak on a per-print basis, depending on speed and resolution you need!
I've done my own research on this subject recently and what I figured out is that Cura ignores resolution settings completely if you have Compensate Wall Overlaps enabled, since it prioritizes flow adjustment and sometimes generates tons of 0.01 segments, depending on the model geometry.
I've been fighting the stutter with my printer for while now and for the life of me I couldn't figure out, I'll disable that.
I never really got what that Setting actually does.. or how i benefit of it. But seems like i can finally turn it off now.
Very interesting, I have been having some blob as well as unexplained retraction issues. This may be the ticket. Thanks!
Trying this now on a vase and so far I don't see any blobs. Once the print completes, I'll try with another file that has supports since that gives me the most issues and blobs. Thanks for the tip!
I can at least say, that the Gyroid Infill prints now much smoother and i could'nt see any blobs until now
Thank you so much for this info! After having my printer for about 6 months, I finally felt like I had it down enough to get myself some pretty silk rainbow PLA and my prints were NOT turning out good. I've done temp towers, retraction towers, watched so many videos on whether or not moisture is a concern and I re-sliced a vase with these settings. Its' not even done yet but I can already tell this made a HUGE difference.
I’m so glad to see a video on this. I struggled with this for a year and after lots of testing I finally discovered the gcode issue and found that cura had max resolution, and my results were instant, but it seemed so out of the ordinary.
Funny I just found out about this problem this week before I saw the video! Nice to see, that you backed up our theory with some measurements and additional informations. Could have saved us some time. Very nicely done as usual - thank you very much, great work!
Your attention to detail is amazing and inspiring thanks for all you do for our community!!!!!!
I love how in depth you go! Thanks for your work.
absolute BEST 3d printing videos - I have learnt so much from your videos, very detailed - no excess, informative! love it keep up the quality content!!!
I've been struggling for ages with this problem on my Geeetech A10 and changing these settings sorted me right out, perfect prints - Thank you so much
Happy to hear that it helped!
Also ein wirklich großes Lob an dich Stefan! Ich finde deine Arbeit einfach wirklich klasse. Die Tiefe und die Details die du dabei herausstellst sind wirklich leicht nachzuvollziehen so wie du diese erläuterst. Es ist schön, dass du deine Ergebnisse und deine Entdeckungen mit uns teilst und diese auch der ganzen Welt in Form der englischen Sprache mitteilst. Mach weiter so, ich bin ein großer Fan und habe schon viel von Dir lernen können. :) Hut ab!
Again - probably the smartest 3D printing channel on YT! Well done!
Bro.... You did it again! I keep learning new things and I'm entertained. One of the best 3d printing channels ever! thank's for sharing.
Thank you! As always your channel provides very helpful content with hard scientific facts and results! Keep it up 👍
Awesome use of Excel! Love the analytical approach to things!
Dude. This was an absolutely amazing video. How clever to figure out that it was the printer itself stuttering, and this easy workaround. Excellent work, love it.
Another excellent insight. I especially appreciated seeing the graphs to visualize the change.
A similar problem occurs on regular CNC machines. Especially when doing 3D contouring. Fusion 360 has a similar setting under tolerance and smoothing. And is interpreted as an allowable deviation from the actual path of the Gcode in order to make moves more smooth and reduce the amount of gcode you are producing.
This video fits like a glove!! just yesterday i was looking around and playing with those settings!!
Amazing!
Wow, I was looking into that problem for a few days and couldn't solve it with the most common tweaks. And then you come with this.... Great job! Totally worked!
What an amazing tip Stefan, this resource that can certainly not only fix simple problems in some pieces but also create amazing effects in others! Thanks for sharing!
Still the most innovative and useful 3dprinter on youtube! Thanks again Stefan!
This video was the straw that broke the camels back and made me become a patreon :-) Consistently great cotent! Thanks Stefan!
Happy to have you as a Patron!
BRAVO! Content of this quality is so refreshing. incredible work, get show of data, actually explained it so I can try myself, which I look forward to doing soon.
I gotta tell you - your youth combined with your intelligence absolutely blows me away completely 1,000%. I am very glad I found your channel. I am so new to 3D Printing that I haven't even prurchased my first machine yet because I fear my decision is going to waste money because I have no experience or knowledge. But your channel is quickly giving me the knowledge I need and I am deeply grateful for it. Thank you and keep it up sir!
This guy consistently impresses me. Keep up the good work my dude!
I have used this setting for a while now. After lots of research this was the only way I could use octoprint with my wanhao i3 plus without getting severe quality degradation.
This catch is absolutely brilliant. My results for curved surfaces have completely changed. It's a night and day difference.
Thank you for making this video! I can’t wait to see if this fixes my issues!
I want to thank you for the quality of content you make and how you make it. Your videos are dense, but you make it easy to understand. And thank you for not adding all that annoying filler that plagues every video anymore.
Keep up the amazing work!
No thumbs down and over 600 thumbs up. Never seen it before, and well deserved. Congrats! This is awesome!
Still somebody had to put some downvotes.
I also had that problem when I used Raspberry Pi Zero as Octoprint host: poligonal models printed fine, but organic forms suffer from jittering resulting in small blobs. Reducing the resolution did help
Pi Zero CPU is to weak to handle this kind of workload
I also give them a chance but I got so many problems with it. I switched to Pi3 and now it works smoothly and perfect
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Your Cura settings fixed the blobs around my circular models. I appreciate these videos!
Awesome - Stefan, you made my day. This is the setting I missed... I directly implemented it into my standard print settings - Thank you!
I solved the same issue with slowing down Print speed. Thank you for let me Print fast again 😁
Only the high poly models are affected
@@REDxFROG if i make a Model in openSCAD im always getting crazy with the number of fragments, probably also a Thing i should think about.
@@becauseican2607 yeah same. However the polycount basically only matters on the large PC Monitor. On these much smaller prints and 0.4mm nozzle the individual polygons aren't visible. :D
@@REDxFROG There's the owl model, I'm sure you know which one. It is 150mm high. I test settings with that model, only printing it 60mm high. The model seems very detailed, even the back of it, but I still see the polygons after printing it. Sure, this was not the case on every printer I used.
Haha, nice to see that Cura has other (worse) settings in their "standard" profile than in their profiles for their own machines. I have seen this before, compare for instance the outer wall jerk and outer wall acceleration for their own printers to their standard "custom FFF machine" profile.
You just solved my worst nightmares. I've been having those exact problems for a couple of weeks and didn't know what to do anymore. You just won a new subscriber my friend. Thanks!
Thank you for all the info you're sharing! I enjoy your videos because of your professional approach with all these statistics and graphs.
Top man! You're a lifesaver!
That's one issue with my home-build printer solved (hopefully!).
Let us know your results!
Its not a problem with the printer its a problem with CURA in particular!!
@@REDxFROG Dude, what is with your hardon for Cura? You've got a problem.
@@noahhastings6145
There are always some guys who bought S3D, dont feed the troll :D
@@FireN2k9 On S3D ive never seen such a problem.. not even on these printers.. lol
I've used resolution trying to solve Octoprint USB serial speed issues.
It sometimes works, but also tends to create less resolved models on complex geometry IMO.
Though I have never seen this issue on printing from the SD card so I usually move my file to the SD card if it's a high res model.
Made a huge Improvement to my prints. I've been fighting this for years. Thank you.
The most useful 3D printer channel on TH-cam!
Alternative (mainly for 32bit Boards because of Flash size) is ARC-Support in Firmware in combination with Arc-welder plugin for cura or as plugin for Octoprint to modify existing Gcode files. What it does is making the small linear movements that will get a curve into a curve so it decreases the file size dramatically and also the ammount of gcodes your printer has to handle.
Since I found out about this I use it always because also the printer itself is running much smoother then (because it doesnt draw many short linear lines but a curve)
Another option is to use a lower resolution when creating the STL file.
I used to choose the highest possible resolution, I have since switched to High or Medium setting in Fusion 360
you gotta be careful with this though - while i havent had any problems like that with fusion i had huge issues with catia when i exported as stl files especially for round objects (chances are that this is a catia-problem though seeing as catia only uses stl/brep for visual representation with very little processing power whereas fusion was made with 3d printing in mind)
@Averell Dalton Solidworks as well. Now in Solidworks if you go too fine you get the same issue and things are no longer manifold.
@@thebeststooge ahh, doesn't surprise me though as solid works is dassault systems as well - good to know though 👍
@Averell Dalton What is ironic is that the value you can reach is model dependent so to get something that works with everything while still producing smoothness you have to back it down by 10-20% and just leave it.
@@thebeststooge oh boy, French logic I guess... If dassault systems software wasn't so god damn powerful nobody would use cause its a users nightmare 😂
Hi Stefan, Great job, I tried a lot of things and couldn't sort out this problem. Tried your advice and boom, the print came out without a single surface problem. Thank you so much.
omg i posted in so many groups this problem with my cr 10 v2, noone had a right answer, watched this video and damn thats what i tought the problem is, ill test print now ! THANK YOU
I may weep with joy you said "the proof of the pudding is in the eating"...You said it right! No one says it right and that kills me, you just earned a subscriber my knowledgeable friend.
I've never heard it said right either, it made me smile.
We are struggling to print with experimental HDPE filament at work, would you do a video about it? You would be one of the first youtubers to cover HDPE filament.
No offense, but if it is work, shouldn't the business you work for have some kind of r&d for it if it is experimental, instead of trying to get someone else to research it for your work without any compensation? It comes across as someone who's trying to get an artist to create something for free for "exposure".
I have this blob problem too! Thanx to you, I updated all my profiles (from 0.08 to 0.32) with this information. I checked old settings with new ones and can already see a difference after slicing ( little less material used and a bit faster). Will see how it works out for me after printing!
Thank you so much for this, i was fighting this for a few weeks, indeed the setting adjusted to your values solved this.
Thanks, and I think that this work deserves a SUB. Here you have it! ;)
Danke bruder!! You are awesome!
I'm trying to learn more about 3D printing ahead of buying my first printer. As a professional code jockey, this type of explanation of what's going on in the gcode is really helping me understand how the systems work. Likewise on your video about the gradient infill idea.
Very well made and the results are great ! superb video Stefan
Ein Kommentar für den TH-cam-Algo! Super Content, wie immer!
Yup, I used that setting to fix printing fast with gyroid infill streamed from Octoprint. The issue isn't only with the mainboard, but simply that sending Gcode through a software serial port in standard ASCII format is extremely inefficient, so you can only send a certain amount of commands per second. When you are printing something round fast enough it's actually made out of a ton of tiny straight moves and you just run out of bandwidth, and the main board catches up with the data in the buffer. At that point in needs to slow down or even completely stop, until enough commands have been sent through for it to continue.
It can be solved by reducing the resolution and therefore the amount of commands sent, by increasing the serial bandwidth rate, or by increasing the command buffer size in the firmware so it can receive more commands while doing longer moves (which helps with short bursts, not a full layer of gyroid).
Or by switching to Klipper firmware that does all the Gcode stuff on a Raspberry Pi and sends only the stepper motor timing pulses through the serial connection.
Or just reduce the polycount and optimize the model
I Had the same problem with another printer. It produced horrible noises if the serial line run out of commands, because the acceleration was switched off by a slicer setting, so it did abrupt starts and stops whenever the queue was filled/emptied.
Thanks. Your contribution to our knowledge base is very valuable! You seem to really think outside the box to solve problems😁
Worked flawlessly on my Geeetech A30 Thank you!
Intereting video, thanks for posting, I have been looking into these 'zits' for a while and found that the biggest thing to remove them on my Ultimaker S5 was the wall overlap compensation, that feature is actually broken in the Cura source code and Ultimaker aren't planning on fixing it as the person who wrote it has left the company and the logic behind how that feature works is quite complicated and a bit messy (I have been through the source code and it's a can of worms) try turning off wall compensation also. I was seeing some stuttering of the print head as you describe even at the ultimaker defaults for the S5 for deviation. But its exactly like you show, you can see the head stutter and extra filament comes out. I would have expected the S5 to be powerful enough to cope with a small deviation. I have it set to 0.5 and still get the odd stutter. Did you manage to completely eliminate it ?. Many thanks. Really glad someone else has looked at this ! 👍🏻
Great video! Another solution to this problem would be to increase the command buffer in Marlin
How do you do this? Can I do it with the stock board? I don't know much about the software side of 3d printing.
Thanks to this video and the comments, I was able to fix a similar problem that I had been troubleshooting for over a week. thank you.
I discovered that too, in fact I had way more problems with small diameter circles (as an example screw holes) than the large ones. How I solved was to lower the resolution of all circles, but this was at the expense of the large ones. I was even thinking to move to a 32 bit board, but this seems way simpler, thank you!
I had a similar problem on my Ender 3. I would get blobs on small perimeters or sometimes only on one side or one quarter of an object (such as a cylinder). It turned out to be the RaspberryPi I was running Octoprint on was unable to feed gcode fast enough and causing stalls that were practically imperceptible, but enough to make blobs.
How did you fix it?
@@thomasalkhoury4434 Print from the SD card or run Octoprint on a more powerful system. I currently run it on an Intel i3 system because I had one lying around, but generally one of the faster RPi machines should be sufficient. But just printing from the SD Card is a good way to determine if that's your problem.
Have you investigated Linear Advance, S Curve, or Junction Deviation? I'll have to see if I've ever messed w/ this setting and just don't remember.
Trying to activate that all with auto bed leveling and disabling the USB, speaker, and long menus is near impossible on a stock 8 bit creality board. You kinda have to pick 2 and forget 1.
Danke very much, man! After 5 years of 3d printing, i never used this setting. Thank you very much for the tips!
This is just mind blowing. Great video!
I've just found the setting in PrusaSlicer. It is under Printer Settings / Advanced if anyone is curious.
Using PrusaSlicer 2.1.1, there is no "Advanced" under Printer Settings. What version of the PrusaSlicer are you using?
@@skyreadyrc5873 PrusaSlicer has 3 selectable settings: Simple (green), Advanced (yellow) and Expert (Red). You toggle them on the top right and the higher settings expose more customization options.
Out of curiosity - what did you set the resolution to in PrusaSlicer (or have you tried anything besides zero)?
I've always just had it match my nozzle size.
Underrated comment - this seems self evident, in hindsight. Nice one
Thank you so much! This helped a lot with troubleshooting issues with Ender 3 and Octoprint. Maximum Resolution set to 0.5 really helped me!
Great information I never knew about that setting I will have to have a play. also it was great to see my vase design in your video I hope you liked it 😁👍
This sounds very promising! Thank you.
However, any idea what that setting is in Raise3d IdeaMaker?
I'm using an E2.
Tia
What would you set "Slice gap closing radius" and "Resolution" in PrusaSlicer?
"Slice gap closing radius" ==> Don't know, never played around with it.
"Resolution" ==> I think what you adjust in PS is the maximum deviation and PrusaSlicer will automatically merge small segments if under that criterion. So keep this value low! Maybe the 0.05mm like in CURA might be a starting point.
Great information. Never saw that setting. I will now keep it in mind.
wow i've been looking for a fix for this exact problem. Thank you!
Never had any of these blobs until I upgraded my Ender 3 to direct drive. This helped so much! I set my max resolution to 0.5mm, max travel resolution to 0.5mm, and deviation to 0.05mm. Slicing in Cura btw.
Stefan: you totally need a fan merch with slogan "German (over)engineering! "
It's only over engineering to those who don't know.
Thankyou so much, vase was fine but other models, even pretty rectangular ones suffered from blobs, this helped a lot.
Thank you! I’ve been struggling with this issue for over a year!
So, what was the setting on the Ender 3 that worked for you?
Was it 0.5mm or a different one?
I used the 0.5mm setting on my Ender 3 w/ Cura and it cleared up almost all the zits on my Benchy.
@@brentvecchi4893 Amazing. Going to print a benchy now to see how this works. I have been changing all sorts of setting trying to fix this and now probably need to reset everything and start over lol
@@brentvecchi4893 0.5 max res, max travel and max deviation?
@@71grupa Max Res = 0.5, Max Travel = 0.5, Max Dev = 0.025
@@brentvecchi4893 thanks i was looking for this, so the 0,7 max travel wasnt better?
I really love your video content. To the point and every second is full of information. Kudos!
You are a lifesaver! I had that problem since I started to use cura. Even the creality support had no idea how to solve it. It cost a lot time, nerves and shitloads of filament until I found your video! Thank you very much for that!
Happy to help!
Will a 32 bit board fix this? Since it may be able to keep up with it
I would like to see this question answered
I've only had this issue due to Octoprint serial connection being to slow.
I then moved to a 32 bit board. (SKR 1.3)
This allowed me to then increase the buffer size in the Marlin firmware. Which in turn reduced drastically this issue.
I know print at 80-100mm/mn which usually works fine except in few cases where I have to move the file to the SD card.
A good 8bit board should not have issues reading such a file with 0.05 resolution though...
@@ledjfou125 I just started having this problem when I installed a BTT TFT35 V3 lcd screen. Haven't had the issue with just my SKR mini E3 V1.2 and Pi 3B+ until now. When I switch from the touch screen to the traditional screen, the problem goes away! All I can find is the Pi can't send the gcode fast enough, which I can't see, mine works just fine except in touch screen mode. I'm now trying to find if the usb and tft connections on the mother board use the same connection.
@@jackwolfjr9517 Dont take my word for it, but if i remember correctly, screen refresh use up a lot of cpu time. :-/
@@jackwolfjr9517 I had exactly the same issue and I didn't want to tweak the resolutions in Cura before I found the problem, today I tweaked the buffer sizes in Marlin and finally got everything together, now it prints without stuttering. So the fix is not resolutions in Cura, it's a buffer problem. I now ha e the latest buxfix and 25.2 for the screen, with the never Marlin I got a problem with the SD card in the TFT35 in Marlin mode, it reports inserted when I take it out and vise versa, so it doesn't work but that no problem now when I can use the touch mode.
How about for Simplify3D?
Afaik S3D doesn't have that setting, but in my experience does a very good job creating well working G-Code with some internal settings.
Thankyou very much. I have struggled with this problem for so long and this is the answer. Also prints faster.
I have a longer lk4 pro, I was having this exact issue, thank you for helping me fix it, more incentive for a 32bit board
Simplify3D version of this setting? Or equivalent perhaps, please?
i'm here to see comments
I actually didn't find it in Simplify3D. If anyone knows, I'd be interested as well!
On Simplify website about blobs and zits one of the fixes is this (below), I'll have to try it next I get blobs on a print.
"Click on “Edit Process Settings” and go to the Extruders tab. Right below the retraction distance, there is a setting labeled “Extra Restart Distance.” This option determines the difference between the retraction distance when the extruder is stopping and the priming distance that is used when the extruder is restarting. If you notice a surface defect right at the beginning of the perimeter, then your extruder is likely priming too much plastic. You can reduce the priming distance by entering a negative value for the extra restart distance. For example, if your retraction distance is 1.0mm, and the extra restart distance is -0.2mm (note the negative sign), then each time your extruder stops, it will retract 1.0mm of plastic"
Reading about "Minimum Extrusion Length" right now. Need to do some test prints to see what happens - I'm not getting these zits normally so it might be hard to test out.
Simplify 3D unfortunately stopped in time. I guess they're in the "way too drugged rockstar" phase of their success, where they have a lot of money and not a lot of motivation to keep up with the other bands, I mean slicers
aaaaaaaahhh thats the reason why my first printer, the geeetech i3 ended up flying through my window!
🤣WTF
I had the same exact issue as you but doing this didn't solve the problem for me. In the end, it was my RPi that was the issue once I connected my printer straight to the computer (Lulzbot Mini). Still, I made a small adjustment in the resolution and my last test print looks even cleaner. Do not stop making videos, seriously. Your work is top notch and my son and I love watching and learning from you.
Fascinating, thanks for looking into this, I am trying it out right now!
This is only a problem of Cura and that's why I have stopped using it again.
Simplify3D just works.
I already know these settings and played around with them for long enough.
I've played around so long with CURA and these settings, I could have just printed many good parts with S3D... you have mentioned "played around" yourself in the video :) some models work different than others. It's a mess. 😅
How can we apply this to S3D?
Afaik S3D doesn't have that setting, but in my experience does a very good job creating well working G-Code with some internal settings.
Thank you for your quick response
Oh yeah love your videos friend yes I’ve been doing 3-D printing for two years now and yeah lots of tweaking with my settings but slowly dialling it in
Love these kinds of videos. I never had this problem and never needed to touch the resolution settings but if I ever run into the problem I will remember the video and it might save me a day of trial and error :)