How to do Multi-Color 3D Prints on Ender 3 3D Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2019
- Chuck shows you how to create a Multi Color 3D Print in CURA 3 on Creality Ender 3. He shows you how to setup one GCode file to produce 4 separate pause points allowing you to change filament on the one nozzle ENDER3 3D Printer. Only one file is required for your printer and the printer will wait for you between layers so you don't have to stand around and wait to pause it at the right time.
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If you have a newer Ender 3 with 32 bit board this may not work because Creality didn’t include the M0 command in the firmware. Try the M25 option.
See.... this is why your channel is awesome. I was just about to try doing this, so I looked up your video as a tutorial and would you believe it, the comment here is relating to my printer. Now I know to try the M25 instead of M0! Thank you!
M0 is also not working on older Ender 3 with a newer board.
@@BrandonsTH-cam Have you tried this with the M25 yet? Just curious rather then waiting halfway through my print to find out if it works or not.
@@doublejz00 I did try this and I do believe it worked. I manually replaced the M0 with M25 code and use the pause at height command in cura. I would go back and double-check but I didn't make a copy of my g code. But I do have the prints and it did work.
What doesn’t work, my M25 version for the V2?
I usually set the standby temp to 200C instead of 25C. Then instead of racing to extrude out the old filament color in the time it takes for the nozzle to heat from 185C to 200C, I can extrude as much filament as desired BEFORE resuming the pause. And I do this by holding the gear release while pushing the filament by hand (Marlin 2.x does not provide for operating the menus during M0).
Hello Chep, I did your method, I used the same codes you did. some times it worked and some times it knocked the print off, so I changed one code, it was Redo Layers. I placed a 0 instead of 1. The prints always have worked, did not push print off no more. Like your channel. keep up the good work!!!
hope this helps me I've been struggling
This works in octoprint stable version, but it hangs on the pause. I have not figured out how to get it to restart.
there is no useless moment of this video....chep video is always concise,clear, kind and also editing is perfect...!
Thanks
Thanks so much for showing me how to do this! It opens up a world of possibilities! Love your channel
Thanks.
I agree 100% !! Chuck's Da Man! ;)
@@FilamentFriday I tried it but when it started after the pause, it started at layer zero and knocked the print over. Do you have a solution, I'm new to 3d printing and would love some help.
CHEP a question. Will it work only if you are printing from sd-card? If i print over usb it will not work.
Yes, I believe it’s SD only
NB: Note that the first layer that cural prints is Layer 0 (not layer 1) therefore whatever the g code says is layer 25 is really layer 26.
Good point. I've already been caught out with that a couple of times. :-)
Important things I learned doing stuff with this (and we are at Cura 5 so people coming here might notice that the video is different, I did):
There's a new field that isn't shown in the video called *Disarm Timeout*, it's the amount of time the printer will wait, after that the motors will disarm, meaning they aren't stopped in place and they could lose their positions easily if you for example push on the carriage too hard. I didn't know this was important so I was always messing up prints because I would push the z axis down by accident. It's set by default to 0, but I don't think the tooltip is well redacted because it makes it seem like 0 there means it will never disarm, when in fact leaving that at 0 means they will disarm IMMEDIATELY. You wanna set it to something that let's you change the filament comfortably even if you happen to have gotten up to go pee and then came back a bit later. In my case I have it set at 600 s so 10 minutes. 1800 s is half an hour. Remember it's in seconds.
Another important thing is that Redo Layer might not work well with every printer. In my case when I leave that one it will return to where it had left off at x and y but not at z, meaning it's left printing that layer in the air and spaghettiing everything. I personally don't use it. I have a Hellbot Magna SE. Your mileage may vary, just keep in mind that if that happens to you, it's because of that option I mentioned.
Also when you change filaments, provided you set the disarm timeout correctly and the motors are locked in place, you should manually push the filament down to purge the rest of the previous one. Push it until it comes out the color you want it to, it shouldn't take long. Make sure to remove that from the nozzle of course.
I have managed to do 4 color prints with the method described in the video and the tips above! Thanks chep!
I have a problem of abundant extrusion at restart after filament change. Should I have to retract filament before restart print?
You can. It’s an option.
Thank you Chuck! You're right, one should use filaments from the same provider to avoid visible mechanical differences caused by settings conflicts. Always instructive to watch your posts.
Chuck - I've really enjoyed the last 2 videos with the deep dive into the extra functions within Cura. Thumbs up!
Oh man, I could have used this video a few weeks ago. Just got done figuring this out for myself.
I will note, that I upgraded to the Micro Swiss all metal hotend. By doing the retraction and then pausing and cooling, I found that I was getting filament blobs stuck above the heat break in the metal throat, which was making the filament change impossible. It worked best to only retract enough to prevent dripping while going to the park position. Then when I was ready to change the filament I raised the temp back-up, retracted, and changed the filament all while the hotend was still hot.
That part of the reason I never switched to a all metal hot end.
I use the "Filament Change" selection in Cura and it works great on my Ender 3 S1.
I love this 3D print community. I just ordered my very first 3D printer and I have a great knowledge base to go through because of people like yourself. Thanks man. I get mine on 2/10/21 I waited until I could find the ender 3 for less than 200 and I found 1 for 166 so I jumped on it . Thanks for being out there for all of us.
As ever, valuable info clearly presented. I can't express how refreshing I find your straightforward, no-nonsense approach. Many thanks!
@CHEP any chance you can update or correct your video to reflect the correct settings for cura 4.8 and the current marlin firmware for the 32 bit ender boards.
Hi, I tried that on Ender 3 and it doesn't work. the print pause, goes to the right X/Y. and immediately continue the print
CHEP you've honestly helped me so much in the past 3 days of getting my first 3D printer and opened up the world of 3D printing i made my first design which was to simply replace some Ikea blind brackets in tinkercad cheers brother.
Thanks Chuck. I wondered how you would accomplish different colours on different layers with a single nozzle printer. You made it so simple and I will be using this newly learned skill for a lot of my future prints.
If you have a newer Ender 3 with 32 bit board this may not work because Creality didn’t include the M0 command in the firmware. Try the M25 option.
Awsome, how i do it is while its in the infill area i just hit pause take it out put the other color in hit print and while it heats and reloads it will be passing through the infill.
i learn something new on every one of your videos, I had no idea my printer could do so much using Cura. videos are fast and to the point
THIS! The info in this video blew my mind and as im sure you've heard many times before has opened a whole new world to me. I didn't even know i could such a thing in Cura. Thank you so much for all your hard work and dedication to the community.
P.S. ive been using your bed leveling GCodes and test print aswell as your Ender 3 side Spool holder and love those aswell.
Cura 4.3 has fixed the extruding in the air problem. Now this great video works for me. It probably worked fine with the Cura version he used and Cura messed it up. Thanks for the nice video.
Just had the same problem 2min ago... sliced it 2 hours ago and it prints in the Air.. Ender 3 Pro
AAAAAAAAAAAAnd im still on last version... Updating now...
Yea I just had that issue right now. Time to update! I'm printing my logo :)
It actually prints in the air still, you have to not move your x axis at all. But what I do is resume the print, once it heats up I pause it and auto home, then resume.
@@jbgarza2010 Strange, mine works 100% but good you have a solution :)
I know I'm late to the party, but I've just started experimenting with multi-color prints. Thanks Chuck, this video guide is really useful and easy to follow!
You’re my hero. Thank you so much. I’m psyched to try this out. I had no idea about purging. My white has never been pure since I didn’t know I could do that
I've used the Filament Change command in Cura to do this many times but I found that it was difficult to not accidentally move any of the axis while changing the filament. Does the Pause at Height command leave the steppers locked?
To get around moving the steppers I have found that I can rehome the X and Y axis with G28 X Y, and then the Z at the origin with G28 Z, as long as the print is not towards the front of the printer, then give a G0 command back to the original height and then a G0 command to the X and Y position. I have also have an O shaped model that I put between the origin and the model so that it gets printed first as a purge tower.
Why not use Fillament Change option? It works great on my Ender 3 Pro.
I use the the layer I wanna pause at +1, change the filament, and Ender extrudes out the old colour automatically and even asks you if you want to extrude even more or continue printing and that's it.
True. Haven't tried this yet though. I have changed filament once and it seemed to pick up right where it left.
As I mentioned, the Ender 3 v2 does not pause until user presses the buttor, it just continues. I found a workaround by using the pause scripts wile printing from Octoprint
Thanks for the Cura focus. It's nice to share that S3d is not the only game in town, especially with the uncertainty of the V5 upgrade cost. Great video!
Thanks for the video on using multiple colors by adding the pause command in the G-does. I was really frustrated using Z-hop and Cura kept changing alignment of my objects. Thanks again.
Why use the 'pause at height' script instead of the 'filament change' script; what are the advantages and disadvantages between them? (reference time 1:09)
I too am curious about that script.
Using M25 on ender 3 v2 version 1.2.2. It parks the print for a couple of seconds and then goes back to the print and just hovers over it until I tell it to start again. I can change the filament but I get massive blobs because of this. Is there any way I can make it park longer?
Good info! Thanks for sharing. Slicer makes it very easy to put in filament changes. You scroll to what layer you want filament change and click the + and it will modify the G-Code to have a pause and park the head.
Yep, just as I showed here:
th-cam.com/video/wnJ24KTBF7U/w-d-xo.html
That is a handy feature. I really enjoy your insights into some of the additional features of Cura. Thank you.
Late to the party but here’s my tuppence worth. The advice worked for me, so I must have the correct board. I did find that there was a big squirt at the start of the new colour filament, I have found that not having any retraction (set to 0) stops this,but to be able to pull out the first colour you need to set standing temperature to the working temperature for an easy pull! It does mean it might help to be around when the change is due! If it’s not working for you, you have the wrong board, check out his other post that explains this. Looking at two lovely Kawasaki badges, white lettering on a black base, Perfect. Thanks for the advice and subscribed. Thanks for your hard work.
I'm having the same issue, I'm going to give this a try. My only question is, is the color change instant doing this? Or should I set it to extrude a small amount prior to resuming to facilitate the color change?
Thanks
Marc M. If you do as I suggest, and leave it hot , pull out the filimant push in new filament and make sure it’s flowing through the hot end, when it’s squirted out and inch or two, or when new colour is seen, clean head and press resume!
chip what was that gear that you used to twist out more filament?
great information. I just bought my first 3D printer (Ender 3 V2) and should get it tomorrow. have been looking around at diff tutorials to get myself ramped up. this one is very helpful.
Chep, the best TH-cam presenter. You and Steady Crafting are top of my list.
I tried using this technique on a print to change colors and the printer stops as it should, but the nozzle crashes into the print when I resume, any advice? I am using Cura and a Tevo Tornado.
Does it pause before the layer starts or after the layer is finished?
DUDE! You are absolutely amazing! I would have never thought of trying this. Thank you SOOOO much! Now to go back and see how you did the multi color sign. My brain is going crazy with ideas!
I might use this method for embedding nuts and other materials into my prints too! Thanks 👍🏼
Epic! I'm also thinking how to go around it, still there is the issue of nozzle hitting the nut which is most likely going to be higher than last placed layer
@@orkusmg The trick is to ensure that the pocket is deeper than the thickness of the nut.
Hey CHEP! I went to do a color change but my printer only paused for a minute and started back up again before I could even change to filament. I followed your video exactly. Is there something I'm missing?
if your having problems with the print head moving while changing the filament just use the filament change script. set the layer to the layer you want the new colour to start and set the initial retraction to 0, the ender 3 seems to think this is an extrude command or something.
nub thanks, I think you just fixed the problem I ended up having with the z axis moving.
Just pickled up your toolkit, started printing about a week ago. The videos you put up have been extremely helpful. My goal is to be able to level my bed as quickly as you. This video is awesome, can't wait to try out some more of your tips and tricks. Thank you.
You’re welcome. Thanks for buying the tool kit.
thanks for actually giving me a solve for my problem instead of some fake solution. you really helped me out here !
I want to buy the creality ender 3 but I wanted to know if you could print a multicolored helmet somehow like a storm trooper helmet
Not easily. You’d have to do it in parts and glue it together.
Wait 1 swcond whats that thing he twisted to pishe filament out how do i add that sheeshh!!
Really nice. I’ll definitely try this out. From now on no more waiting to pause and change colors
Holy crap, I din't this could be done with one nozzle! Wow, I hope I remember this video when my ender 3 arrives, this is great info. Thank you.
is there a thingiverse file for the screw nob you have on the stepper motor
Go to Thingiverse. Item: 3176144
Has anyone figured out why when continuing after changing filament it resumes above the print and extrudes filament in the air?
Ender 3 Pro
1.1.5 board
Marlin 1.1.9 + BugFix
BLTouch (Generic)
Cura 4.2.1
I wish there was a script that could wipe off the old filament
Thank you for your expertise! This *is* indeed very handy for some prints, certainly more precise than splicing in the fillament by eyeballing it
Wow! I did not know Cura had gotten so much better! I'm awaiting my ender 3, and this will be super helpful!
I have tried this on an Ender Pro3. It only pauses for a few seconds and continues. Any suggestions to make the pause longer or until I start it manually?
Same happens to me
@@ryandera6673 Need to do a firmware update. That allowed me to do what I needed to do
@@bradmcwhirter7450 which version?
Do you have discord?
@@ryandera6673 I do not have discord on my devices with me. I also do not have the link to the site with the updates but in another video, CHEP recommended a pay site for updated firmware that is updated daily. This helped me accomplish the color change since I use a creality printer and their firmware does not activate the options needed for color change
why use this method instead of the filament change command?
You're quickly becoming one of my favorite 3D printing channels! Another great video
Wow, this is a very comprehensive tutorial. Thank you!
Great, will not use this for different color but to inlay some other parts like a wire in a channel or some screws...
Exactly what I was thinking of doing, embedding something within the print.
Would you mind releasing a tutorial on how to do this same process in cura 4.8 and the current version of the ender 3? Because this isn't working for me. I tried using the Marlin (MO) method and it did nothing. I then tried BQ M25 and it did pause, but wouldn't disengage the steppers even after it reached the time I specified, which made it difficult to change filament and purge the extruder of the previous colour.
Any help or further info would be appreciated
same problem. please sir CHEP! thank you!
Do not check the box that says "redo layer" and it will work fine. The same thing kept happening to me until I deleted that checkmark in that box. Worked perfect after that.
@@motoprof1441 box is not checked, still have problems.
Same, I've tried this multiple times on 4.8 with various settings and it won't work. I even added a beep before the pause so I could hear when it was ready for me to change the filament, and it moves to the corner and then immediately starts printing again.
Thank you, thank you, thank you, Chep!! I'm new to 3D printing and everyone of your videos has been invaluable to get started. I appreciate your time and effort in making and sharing these videos. You are a wealth of info and you present it perfectly; concise, informative and thorough. Keep up the great work!
Thank You
Just did this on some tokens. Came out wonderful. Thanks Chuck!!
Chuck, you should revisit this now that Cura 5.1 is out. I use this video as reference so much, but now with cura 5.1 something is really strange and I can't seem to figure out, like when I would hit resume it would automatically extrude out some filament even with having the setting like you show in your video. Now with 5.1 you don't get that little extrude amount and then it puts a big blog on the print where it's resuming at.
I am having the same issue as well. The pause and resume are working great with the exception that when it resumes, it's spitting out a little blob right where it resumes.
@@Vischar It's like the little prime command that used to happen before it would move over to the print doesn't happen any more?
@@ydkjman It was either spitting out a blob on resume, or a void if it wasn't primed... So yes, I think this is a priming issue on resume. I fixed this personally by building a prime tower beside whatever I was printing. I made sure the slicer started each layer on the prime tower, so that when it resumes any blob or void will be on the tower, not my print. Uses a bit more filament, but works perfect to keep the color switching more consistent.
@@Vischar Thanks for the tip
I have same problem.
Can it be a solution add extrusion script after pause ?
I can't change Filament without messing with the height. There's a way to lock the axis?
I had exactly that problem today, it totally tried to run right through previous couple of layers, print ruined !
Yes there is a function keeping the steppers Armed in 1 of the pause scripts in Cura.
@@nl2rma thank you! I'll try as soon as possible
The Post Processing script that has the option is called "Pause at hight" in Cura 4.6.1. And if you search the gcode you see the M18 S code for keeping the stepper armed, the S is followed by seconds before disarm.
This is much better than editing the GCODE yourself or pausing the Print. Thank You, Great tutorial.
One day I'll save up for a PALETTE 2, but then it would cost more than the Ender 3. LoL
Thanks for showing how to do this. I've never tried it yet. Now I'm going to give it a shot
If i insert other color filament, the head moves, and wont print correct.
The head is not allowed to move while changing filament, impossible : if i touch the head it moves.
How can i solve this ?
I am having the same issue and am experimenting with the stepper motor engagement timeout, but it is maxed out at 999 seconds which is fast. I had a few failed prints from not changing the filament before that timeout time. Just curious, what version of marlin are you running?
same problem with me
This did not work for me. The gcode stopped the program at the correct height, but then the Z height changed when I was handling the filament. This process does not recover the correct z height on my Ender 3, so it was crashing into the part, making a mess.
Same for me. I've also touched the bed and put it out of position. It would be nice to lock all axis
been having the same problem. wish there was a way to fix this issue
Ditto, it's bloody annoying. I ruined a print today by accidentally moving the Z axis just a little.
1OlBull same. It’s annoying.
ok i am now subbed so far every video i seen of yours is just pure gold i had my ender 3 pro arrive today and i am loving it and your videos have been a massive help to understand this printer
The best 3d print channel! Thank you!
If you tell is to pause at layer 25, does it pause before or after it lays down layer 25?
After layer 25
@@number0096 so if I need layer 22 to be white I set it to change at 21??
@@gkmankowal2542Yes
Mines paused and never gave me an option to start..... Lovely.
I tried with my V2 not knowing I should be using M25 (so I was using M0) and the nozle came down and scratched the bed. Now seeing the comments I'm going to try the M25. I will Update soon.
Oh yeah, forgot to update 😅, but yes it worked
I appreciate you posting this. Im only on my 8th print and this is going to help so much with ideas I have.
Great information sir getting ready to print somthing in five colors on a single extruder this is exactly what I needed
One thing that confused me about this. When you change the filament, you manually extrude until the new colour is flowing. Doesn’t that mess up the Z height? The printer has no way of knowing you did that. Or am I missing something here (ENTIRELY possible! 🙂).
Love your channel! Thanks for this.
Not at all, the printer is not calculating flow through the extruder when you manually push it through.
Unless you bump it and move Z your fine.
@@FilamentFriday Hey, Chep. So I'm finding that it's really easy to have Z start to ride down the rod with minimal movement. During the pause, it seems my Ender 3 Pro is unlocking the stepper and allowing gravity to grab a hold of it way easier than I want. Is there a way to stop this? I'm going to dig through Marlin's code to see if I can add a command to the .gcode file to lock up the steppers right as it's pausing. Have you had similar issue/have a workaround?
You can tighten to eccentric nut on the inside wheels and also the screws on the brass nut.
@@FilamentFriday When you said eccentric nut, I assumed you were talking about my Uncle Derek, but there's no way you know him. But seriously, this worked exactly as I'd hoped. Thank you for this, I didn't even notice the hex pattern inside the wheels.
Note to beginners when it stops printing it disarms the steppers and it losses its place
You have to enable disarm timeout and set it to 1000s so the z axis do not move under pressure
@@samslocos3478 I got it up to 1500s to give 25 minutes, just in case one is away from the printer. Also, he doesn't call it out in the video, but the redo layers I think is key too, just in case there is a variance in Z (I know mine isn't perfect) and there could be variance in the flow due to a few factors like moisture, which could cause the layers between he color change to have a slight gap, so the layer redo is a good idea imho.
Work Perfect in my Ender 3, Thanks from Argentina CHEP !!!
I did a few coasters with this technique, it works deliciously
this doesnt work on ender 3 v2. it stops for a few seconds and continues
Same issue here any solution would be great.
@@chrisradical2046 i upgraded to the th3d firmware. works now
GREAT VIDEO! I HAVE GOT TO TRY THIS!!!!! Most of the koolest things I have done are multi color most just 2 colors but standing waiting for the layer. And of course having to pause then home and restart this would end all the pain involved! Thank you!
This worked great! Using m25 code on a newer Ender 3. I did notice that on the newest version of Cura, it didn't seem to put the pause g-code in the same place as yours. Still worked!
Great tip for using up portions of spools if you don't have run out feature like me.
Chep! Thank you a lot for the filament change solution!
I have tried it on my Ender 3 (with skr mini E3) - it works perfectly well and correct!
Have a good Day and Lucky print!
I did this on my anycubic mega S following your instructions and it worked almost flawlessly. Only issue I ran into was the filament run-out sensor, when I changed the filament it screwed up the printer "resume" but I just powered cycled the printer and kicked off the resume as if it lost power and it picked up and ran the rest of the job flawlessly.
Clear and concise as usual. Thanks
What you are doing is amazing!! Education the public!! Bravo to you Sir. Your videos are what made it possible for me to purchase my 1st 3D printer. Thank you very much.
You’re welcome. Just curious, did my affiliate links help you?
Wow this is great info! Thank you. Clear instructions. This will also be perfect for finishing rolls of fillament!
You are helping me more and more from the start to know and in the future.
Thank you.
Keep going
This is AWESOME! I'm new to your channel but already a fan. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Can't wait to try out.
Awesome! I didn't know you could add multiple pause at Z heights until watching this video. Thank you.
Came across this, was hoping this would help me setup Cura for my ender with a Chimera hotend. While it wasn't for that,still stayed since I do have other printers with only single nozzle. Thanks.
Very cool video, thanks for the tip! Qe have an Artillery sidewinder x1 at home, and at it's current settings it doesn't work with m0, it just skips them. So just travel slowly to one point and then change the filament. Workaround, but it works great! Thanks again for the video!
This is going to level up my abilities so much thank you👏👍
Fabulous - I've been waiting for this! Many Thanks
Thanks Chep, doing my 1st colour change today on my ender 3 pro using your tutorial :) Nice and simple.
So it failed... weirdly... For some reason, after resuming, the layer height jumped up exactly 1mm before printing again. Machine is relatively new still and stock. Using latest cura 4.2.1 to slice. Followed your guide to the T. Was trying to print a square blue plate 1.4mm high with a white logo on top.
Another great one from Chuck. Thank you!
I don't have 3D printer yet but I'm watching all the videos I need and your channel is very helpful! Well deserved sub!
Cool!! Another great video that is highly useful. Appreciate what you do man!
This works very nicely with Octoprint too, Thanks for the great vid!
Thankyou. for Highlighting a great feature in CURA. Keep up the great work
Awosome video love it! everything was made way more simple than waiting to pause the print :D
This is so crazy man. I'm starting, and you are a great help. Thank you so much