3D Printing Perfection: Fine-Tune Top and Bottom Settings in Ultimaker Cura 5
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
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In this tutorial, I will guide you through various parameters that can be adjusted for top and bottom layers, such as layers, extruder, print speed, pattern, and line directions to create the best possible finish on your 3D prints. We will start with a brief introduction to top and bottom settings and their importance in achieving a high-quality finish on your prints. We will then move on to discuss the different settings that can be adjusted for skin and walls. I will explain how to adjust the thickness and density of the skin layer and how to use the top surface skin layers setting to improve the print's surface quality.
Additionally, you will learn how to adjust top surface skin pattern, line directions, and print speed to get a more precise and customized result. The top/bottom thickness setting and how to adjust it to fill any gaps in the top and bottom layers will also be covered. I will also demonstrate how to separately adjust the thickness of the top and bottom layers, how to set a number of top and bottom layers, and how to adjust the number of initial bottom layers.
Finally, you will learn how to select various patterns for the top and bottom layers of your print. By the end of this video, you will have gained an in-depth understanding of how to fine-tune top and bottom settings in Ultimaker Cura 5 to achieve 3D printing perfection!
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00:00 Intro
00:21 - Skip… Nah..
00:36 - What is Top & Bottom Layer Settings
01:16 - Skin
01:50 - Getting Settings
02:10 - Top Surface Skin Layers
03:15 - Top Surface Skin Line Width
03:31 - Top Surface Skin Pattern
05:21 - THANK YOU
06:08 - Top/Bottom Layers
07:29 - Consider This…
07:48 - Top/Bottom Layer Settings
09:06 - Top Layer Count Print Examples
14:29 - Monotonic Top Bottom Ordering
17:09 - Top/Bottom Line Directions
19:29 - Ironing What is it?
20:01 - Ironing Settings
20:23 - Ironing Pattern
21:26 - Ironing Flow
21:53 - Inset
22:51 - Skin Overlap
25:31 - Conclusion
26:45 - Settings I Check
27:06 - BLOOPERS - บันเทิง
Best tutorial I've seen online so far the video you did on traveling really helps thanks
Awesome, thank you! Glad it was helpful
I love your illustration of print examples at different settings. I watch alot of 3d printing videos but yours are unique.
Needed to look into getting better top layers via understanding the Cura settings. First stop? ItsMeaDMaDe.
Very good information for me to try! Thank you. Keep them coming, the more the better. Maybe I'll have 1/100 of the knoweledge you have on 3D Printing someday.
Another fantastic video Chris! Thanks so much!
Thanks Mark! Glad you liked it. One more and this series is over. I’ve taught all I can on Cura. 😬
Thank you for taking the time to explain all these settings, it really helps to understand how these things work. Your work is truly valuable, and helps many of us.
You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful.
اشتريت اول طابعة خاصة بي بعد اول استعمال اصبت بالإحباط كانت الطباعة ذات جودة منخفضة ومليئة بالأخطاء. لكن بعد ان شاهدت سلسلة فديوهاتك تعلمت كثيرا واصبحت اطبع باحترافية انا ممتن لك كثيرا
Hi Chris. I’ve just recently found your channel. Really excellent explanations and presentation. You are an excellent communicator. Thanks from a new fan!
Thanks and welcome!
you deserve way more views mate, quality content
Thanks.
thanks for all the awesome content. learnd so much from you.
Your welcome. Im glad to hear it!
Your videos are very good, thanks for sharing this knowledge!!
Glad to help!
When I use “Concentric” lines for the bottom layer, it sometimes leaves small tiny holes, mostly with organic models, where it isn’t an exact perfect circle. This causes the lines to get angled, and usually causes small holes at those angles. Do you have any idea what I could do to fix this? (love your videos, you have helped so much 🙏)
Your videos are good, I will be checking channel out first for advice, I love your approach and explanations are clear , well paced and enthusiastic. Thank you.
Men i love your explanations so much, everything makes sense now, i've seen so much progress on my prints, thanks of you
Your very welcome. Glad I could help!
Excellent Info!!!! Thank You Chris!!!🤔🤯👍👏💯😎
Thanks for sharing this information. It will be good to take care of some of the noted problems in my prints.
That’s great hope it helps make your prints even better!
Amazing explanation! So 4 layers and ironing after that :)
Love your stuff
Thanks!
Brilliant
Just one request what model you are working with pleased looked for a box andhave had to update the Cube
Awesome video! Thank you so much.
Hey there, thanks for your videos. According to top layers and skin. You said that "top surface skin layers" adds layers, but thats not true. If you have 4 top layer and one top surface skin layer its still 4 layers but the last one will be treated different. You can see it in your video, the first of the 4 starts at 105 and the last is 108 in both cases.
Disabling "Iron only highest layer" doesn't iron everything, it still only irons top surfaces. But enabling it will only iron the highest top surface, like if you were printing a benchy, it'll only iron the top of the chimney. So you should leave it off.
Really !? 😮😢 I wish I knew this before. Lol
I was just going to ask about this as I have a rectangular model with different top surfaces on different heigths. So disabling it would iron the different top surfaces if I understood you correctly? As with the benchy, it would then iron both the deck and top of chimeny?
@@bjornml.08 Yes, that's right. It'll iron all surfaces that are "top" (flat surfaces with nothing above them). You can confirm that in the slicer preview. It'll be shown as very fine lines.
Is there a all for one setting for any and all prints or does each print need its own setting. I really enjoy your videos and they have been VERY helpful as I am new to 3d printing
What did you press or change to take off the top layers and to add them back on. Great video. Thanks.
Hey Chris!! I made a lot of changes on my profiles, excellent explanations.
Only one question, what about spheres? they so difficult to get a smooth bottom, I don't get them to be ok, can you give some tips?
Hm, on my Cura "Top Surface Skin Layers" does NOT add an extra layer. It "uses" the topmost layer. This is actually visible in this video, which I went through VERY slowly: There are only 4 top layers in both sliced examples.
Thanks for these videos. I have tried adjusting cura to remove hair stringing, but nothing seems to work. I use Anycubic Kobic Max Printer, where I have a stringing problem.
Next weeks video I discuss these issues specifically so stay tuned next week.
Not that this is the best longterm solution. But depending on the type of stringing occurring, grazing them with a lighter can be a very good & very quick fix for stringing.
subbed.. thank you..
I believe most of the smoothness of the monotonic top layer is achieved by printing it in one direction only. The inconsistencies in the surface in "optimized" mode is due to filling those gaps in a reverse direction. It is like unidirectional and bidirectional printing in dot matrix printers (who still remembers those?).
I remember my first printer I got for college papers was a Gorilla Banana for my C64. Damn dude thanks for making me feel old. Now I have an upper end Epson Ecotank and a Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and love both...
Is there a option for this in cura?
Man what a setup you have! Those paint bottle holders, are they something you got that can plug into a corkboard?
Thanks! Yeah! All 3D printed got them on Thingiverse just search for peg board craft paint holders.
I’m trying to do 100 infill and up to a certain lever have lines and than switch to concentric. I can’t figure out how to do it
Great!
I have a Bambu P1S which is not a bedslinger. The random diagonal lines are making my products ugly. I don't feel good selling them until these lines are solved. I hate to resort to ironing because it takes so long. Should I switch the direction so it's printing the top layer lengthwise instead of 45 degrees?
Is there a way to run a test line in Cura before it prints a model?
Hi can u do a video on Build supports please both singöe and double extruder
Hello and thank you for all your videos which I find very interesting. I am French and I use an Ultimaker S5 printer. today I am contacting you because I am facing a problem, printing several colors on the same object. I am using the function, change filament in cura 5 but the default settings are not good. I use a 0.4mm print head and every time I change the filament, a big deposit of material ruins the rest of my print. Thank you for your help if you have the solution to my problem. Best regard. Bruno
Thanks for the comment. When it comes to your issue I used that feature. So I don’t have an answer I can add that to my list of video topics and do some testing and make a video in the future.
thank you for your quick response and thank you for taking the time to read me
On a related note, is there any way to get a complete top surface printed for lower top surfaces? Example: I'm printing a part that has raised lettering. The face of the part is my lower top surface. Due to the lettering, Cura leaves holes in this surface where the letters will print afterward. I'd like it to print a top layer over these holes while it's printing the rest of this surface in order to avoid having my letters printed over just infill - in hopes of gaining more adhesion for them - not to mention eliminate the slight "drag" marks between them where the nozzle is traveling...
My one job bottom dia 32 mm and 1 mm length middle dia 20 mm and 10 mm length after top dia 32 mm 1mm length total length for job 22 mm
Cura default settings slice problem bottom 3 layer and top 5 layer so top and bottom thikness note maintain how solve
i wish you lived in VA ide pay for classes from you im more hands on
Thanks. I'm having issues with bottom layers. When printing joining parts the pieces don't match they are bowed when trying to glue together. I have 7 bottom layers and it does not look like it was lifting odd the bed. Would more bottom layers help Maybe?
Hey Dennis! Honestly you might want to try less layers sounds like your getting a bit of elephants foot. Having a thick bottom like that might be causing the issue. Maybe try 3-4 bottom layers if that’s not it you may want to check your belt tension and do some calibration cube tests on wall thickness.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe not really elephants foot more like a warp. Let's say a 6in long by 1in wide part. The parts touching the build plate look flat but when removed it looks like a smile
@@DennisCrawfordJr I sent you a message in the patreon about joining the discord. There you can share pics and we can figure it out. Or I can send you my email
@@ItsMeaDMaDe I just joined thanks
sometimes u need to think of the infill too. to little % makes the printer to bridge much..and u need more layers to smooth it out..higher infill makes it easier to bridge.
i thought the mustache was a skit, i was wrong.
it's gorgeous tho
Line layer direction does not require the value to be entered between the [ ] brackets. They are only there as defaults so the slicing software function can process as null rather than no entry which is typically 0.
I've got to admit that pillowing actually looks kinda cool. 🤨
"Concentric" gives me horrible results on bottoms. The extruder does not stop during the small pause and thus builds up a hump. Setting start and stop positions to "Random" only makes things worse as the extruder keeps extruding during travel.
All the videos that I come across tell how to make the top surface even and smooth, but I have a different problem. I need to achieve a high quality detailed texture on the top surface. and my texture is kind of smeared.
Rotate your part 90degs, so you want the "detail side of your part" printing vertical like a wall instead of trying to print the detail on top,,, obviously it only works with certain types of models/parts but this method is extremely good for Topographic Maps and Terrain types of prints-.
like this model from Thingiverse- (picked at random)
Mt Whitney w/ Trails (1:48000 scale)
Now rotate it around (might have to do it a couple of times to find the best spot) so the detail is on the side, and any steep overhangs are are topside-.
hope this helps ya out a bit-.
Safe top settings = Rubber, Safe Bottom settings = Enima and Lube