How To 3D Print Inlays
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2021
- This week lets work on how to inlay designs into your prints.
Tinkercad:
www.tinkercad.com/
How to import fonts to tinkercad:
• Import fonts to tinker...
Multi colour prints with tool changes:
• How to Multi Color Pri...
Pictures to prints:
• Pictures to 3D Prints ...
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The Slicer I use:
Prusa Slicer
My Printers:
Elegoo Mars
Prusa Mk3S MMU2s
AnyCubic Chiron
Tronxy XY2 Pro
Kingroon KP3S
Voxelab Aquila
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Intro music created by Noah Wilson.
Was getting serious slicer issues until watching your video. Big thank you dude! I'll have more hair thanks to you 👍
If you would have imported your phone case into prusaslicer first and then done an “add part” and selected your inlays, it would have properly positioned them exactly where they need to go.
I’m only a couple of months in to my 3d printing journey and loving it. I appreciate this tutorial, thanks
When I thought this was a boring video and suddenly it turned into a fantastic video when I scrolled to 10:27
I watched many 3D print videos, and this is the 1st time I have seen someone show this wonderful tip :)
😎 Please change the battery in your smoke detector.
Ha Jeff your smoke detector keeps chiping have noticed it over a couple of your videos. Time to change battery.
It was a old one I changed out and and put in a box. I did find it recently and took the battery out.
@jeff3dcorner I didn't read the comments first and started to check my smoke detectors around the house 😅. Thanks for the video, I will give it a try.
Great video, it never occurred to me that you could do it this way, I've used a 2 in 1 printer, and seen people do this trick but with completely separate prints and hoping the bed didn't shift at all. This is a great way of doing it. Thanks.
Thanks Jeff!
Thanks for the lesson.
I cannot believe I didn't know this. Amazing trick thank you!
Dude, change your smoke alarm battery. 🤣
muito legal esta idéia, obrigado por partilhar
very cool this idea, thanks for sharing
I know the video is old and probably you know this, but just click on the object and select negative volume, it will allow you to see it with a transparency to align and then slice by interchanging the negative and part options.
Thanks for the video. Now, I'm gonna try that (with Fusion 360 and a Prusa Mini+).
Great video, it was super helpful. Thanks. Did you change the battery in the smoke detector? J/K, Cheers.
Thank you Good Video ;-)
I am still a little confused, won't the print head have problems with 3 colours on the same layer?
nice video! just came across your channel, and I can tell from stuff in your corner you must also live in Canada lol. just subscribed!
Yes I do eh!
@@jeffs3dcorner those containers ( which i love and have over a dozen of ) and the water bottle were 2 of the signs that i knew
Dead giveaway
Jeff, really enjoying your vid’s! Figured you’d be a good person to ask about printer purchase options. I have an old Qidi X-One that I had fun with 4 years ago, but got away from printing with other endeavors (it’s still working minus an extruder that needs unclogging). Wanting to get back in mostly for functional parts and some improved durability parts (GoPro mounts, battery pump adapter mounts, etc, etc). I’m a reasonable tinkerer. Looking at a Kingroon KP3S on the low cost end and a Prusa i3 MK3S+ (kit) on the high cost end. Also looking at the Qidi X-plus since I was pretty happy with the old X-One, and intrigued about using it for ABS. Just curious how you would lean in this case? Thanks for any input!
Wow that's 2 diffrent extremes. I don't have any experience with the Qidi printers. I did buy my Kp3s as a low cost version of the prusa mini. With a few mods I'd put it up against one any day. I love my mk3s. A friend best describes it as the iPhone of printers. It just works. It's my only printer I have not modded because it doesn't need to be.
@@jeffs3dcorner Cool! I guess at that price it’s hard to go wrong. The only real limitation for me will be the ability to easily print things like ABS, Nylon and PC. I’m guessing it would struggle with a 100 deg C bed temp. For the lower temp materials it should be great. Might buy one just for PLA.
I’m gonna give it a try to do some inlay tokens. Solid color with each one having an inlay colored letter.
this method would work with the bambu lab printers?
to do it in simplify is it the same way?
Nice Video Jeff. What filament did you change to for the sides of the case. You said soft. Is that TPU? I didn't get that details.
Yes just a generic tpu.
Great video! Where did you come up with the number .2 to drop the "hole" text.
Printed layer height.
Hi, great video. I am trying this right now and do you now if there has been any changes in the firmware or the slicer? When the printer goes to do the color/tool changes it retracts the filament at fullspeed "clicking like crazy" and continues to wipe the nozzle the moves to the front to change filament but the filament is already extracted. After I insert the new filament it goes back to the purge tower and lowers the nozzle and extrudes a huge blob an then starts to wipe through it and makes a big mess. Could it be the added m600 in tool-change code?
possible.
This is an old comment, but maybe others will find this helpful. I was haveing the same issue and I found these settings for my MK3S+ and PRUSA Slicer work like a charm.
Printer Settings -> General
Extruders: 2
Single extruder multimaterial: Checked (enabled)
Printer Settings -> Custom Go-code -> Tool change (the Gzero Xzero Yzero line is very important! as it moves the head to the front left so that blobs don't end up on your print)
{if layer_num >= 0}
G0 X0 Y0 ; go to front/left
M600 ; change to filament for extruder; {next_extruder + 1}
{endif}
Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Extruder 2 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Single Extruder MM Setup -> Single extruder multimaterial parameters
Cooling Tube Position: 0
Cooling Tube Length: 0
Filament Parking Position: 0
Extra loading distance: -2
Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders:
Wipe tower: Checked (Enabled)
Prime all printing extruders: Unchecked (disabled)
? How come the Disney was orange and then became black in the final piece ?
i wish santa will bring me mosaic palette 3 this year :D
Same and a camera that does proper auto focus.
This method works perfectly in terms of print quality, when print finishes successfully, but makes a huge mess with a purge block.
When the print consists of a single part, but uses different extruder for some layers - printer purges filament on a purge block perfectly. But when I print with inlay - I end up with a huge blob of plastic instead of the clean purge blob and the nozzle goes through that blob, melting through it. Needless to say it may pick up some plastic which is going to be lodged into the print.
I had the same issue, but I was able to resolve it with the following settings.
I found these settings for my MK3S+ and PRUSA Slicer work like a charm.
Printer Settings -> General
Extruders: 2
Single extruder multimaterial: Checked (enabled)
Printer Settings -> Custom Go-code -> Tool change (the Gzero Xzero Yzero line is very important! as it moves the head to the front left so that blobs don't end up on your print)
{if layer_num >= 0}
G0 X0 Y0 ; go to front/left
M600 ; change to filament for extruder; {next_extruder + 1}
{endif}
Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Extruder 2 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Single Extruder MM Setup -> Single extruder multimaterial parameters
Cooling Tube Position: 0
Cooling Tube Length: 0
Filament Parking Position: 0
Extra loading distance: -2
Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders:
Wipe tower: Checked (Enabled)
Prime all printing extruders: Unchecked (disabled)