Your turbo timer warning was something I had never considered. As for the cooling mod. It balances out you coolant flow for both sides of the engine. In stock configuration the coolant flows much better on the turbo side due the the extra flow going to cool the turbo. The mod balances the flow better and brings your cylinder temperatures closer to each other. With the low flow speed of the coolant and the bend in the exhaust port, cylinder 4 is always hotter than the rest.
Thanks. I understand the reasoning for it, but could also argue that the knock sensor is located there and as that is the theoretical worst cylinder (although that is the one cylinder/piston I haven't broken in the past) that it is designed that way to give early warning. Evening out temps could reduce that early warning maybe ? From my experience in road going subarus and extreme 850bhp time attack racers it hasn't been necessary and I have seen lots of downsides. I am still unconvinced 👍
@@racedynamix Contacting Dom from Getadomtune for an interview may make a good a TH-cam video. He's a great information source and has done a lot of development on the EJ.
@@racedynamix well I guess if nothing else as long as it doesn’t leak it can do no harm of it doesn’t do no good. I listened to the internet and they told me I should do it 🤦🏻♂️. In my defence we have a nod a little like this in the classic mini world to help coolant flow through the block as you end up with a dead spot on no4 which tends to running higher ( different car and different engine I know but this is the best defence I can come up with)
I've done it to, 4 years ago. I track the car... a little more cooling can't do any harm. Haven't had an issue, but I also don't know if it's doing any difference.
Would be interesting to hear your take on Catch Cans/ Air Oil Separators. Also aftermarket air intakes (cone filter things), heard the stock one is good enough for most applications!
@@antares4755 if your willing to drop some Money into the engine the vf41 which is standard on the fsti can achieve 371 with supporting mods @racedynamix can vouch for that 😉
@@racedynamixi found out the only time a cheap chinese turbo worth doing is to send them for seal and bearing replacement using genuine unit at turbo rebuilder... Which usually still abit cheaper than branded name turbo unit... Alternatively, to limit the boost up to only 1bar of pressure...generally thats the borderline for them cheap turbo to fail on the seals...
I believe that was my short shifter 😃. And yes I have a issue with 4 gear selection on boost wonder weather this caused it? Hoping I can bump into you for a chat next time your at triton?
Another Great video Duncan, as a new Subaru sti owner it’s brilliant watching your videos and couldn’t have been more of a gent mapping my widetrack sti last week at Surrey rolling road. Straight forward and sound advice.
Taught me a lesson even if you buy a car that is apparently standard take it to somebody that knows and have it checked out. Could of quite easily carried on driving it without knowing, it’s stuff like that gives these cars a bad reputation. Yeah happy for it to be in a video would give buyers like me at my age 😞 a heads up.
I had to skip to 10 first watch, I just knew this was going to happen... then re watched. Now I understand more about the toyos after a good angle grind, that is horrendous..
Yes mate. If you compare the flow and blending within RCM headers for example they are shocking in comparison. I didn't even mention the horrific flexing joint 😂
Thank you very much Reuben. I am trying to learn new skills in premiere pro to make it look and flow better.. Lighting and sound are easier to control in here but not as I want it quite yet. I would love to get the lighting/set up in the workshop and dyno right but that is a nightmare of strange colour casts at the mo. 🙏🙏
@@racedynamix Yikes, I often film in my workshop with small machinery, which challenges me.. Not quite as intense an environment for filming/recording as your industrial fans/ventilation, dyno and a WOT pull. Great stuff mate.
@@ReubenSchoots cool. The dyno environment is horrendous... Big fans that blow tripods over, drown out voices and engine notes andlighting (or lack of) from hell.. It is a challenge for sure 🤣
You're right.. Sorry about that. The std ones are better though. They fit on the plug better, whereas the surefire ones kind of stick when pushing on. Perhaps a little unfair of me.. But I have had many customers with misfire issues with new surefire coils and almost never have a problem with the std ones.. Even second hand tbh. Some are showing signs of age now so difficult to get good second hand ones. 👍
I don't really follow the forums like I used to, but it did always amuse me how there always a 'trendy mod of the time' the one I never understood, and still don't, is bonnet struts that get in the way and reduce access.
i'm actually running the cheapest maxpeeding rods TD04L-13T turbo on my sf5 forester for more than 25.000km right now. no problems at all. only thing i did was port the hell out of the turbine inlet, port the wastegate and check the whole turbo. Im also running a cheap ebay bov, i polished the inside, fitted a much stiffer spring, and used fitting tape and orings on all the parts. But i have to agree that there not that great.
Brilliant video. Great to see someone put their neck on the line and say dump valves are nothing but trouble. I put one on my fiesta turbo in my early twenties. It was exactly as you point out. Nothing but trouble. 100% not putting one on my foz. Thanks for another great video.
Thank you very much buddy. Appreciate the positive feedback from a fellow YT person. Opinions are always something I have had.. I don't think I will be on toyosports Xmas card list 🤣
I have owned a few odd-engine cars. I have an FD rx7 and a 22 Subaru BRZ. I was a mechanic for years. Love your honesty and some of the crap I've seen roll in made me scratch my head and ask WHY? Same, is true for Rotary Engines cheap parts and bad tuning = BOOM.
@@racedynamix They aren't as bad as people claim. I used to have guys at autox razzing me about them being unreliable but I wasn't the one towing my car home. Same with Subaru engines here in the States. Thanks for the honest information you provide.
I can purchase that bee r rev limiter now as it wasn’t on the list lol, some quality info there thanks Duncan I do like a quality dump valve though but that goes back to my Renault 5gt turbo days lol
I remember years ago people having to take off zero sports induction hard pipe elbows as they were too restrictive when being mapped but they looked nice lol
Another great, informative video! Thank you! If we are playing "Scooby mod bingo", the only mod I have on my FSTI that is on the list is the Cyl4 cooling mod and I was skeptical about it from the start, so I used a heat gun to check before and after, and it did bring the temp on cyl4 down a bit, but we are talking 3-5deg C (taken on the surface of the head). The overall temp of the coolant was also reduced a little bit (around 5c). Those tests were only done at idle when the car was up to temp and the results are negligible so my conclusion: Does it need the mod? No. Does it hurt to have it? probably not. If I get another Scooby, will I do the mod again? I doubt it. I am a bit concerned that the only knock sensor is on cyl4, so if (big if!) I have reduced the probability in knock on 4, have I reduced the overall knock protection??
Great point re the knock protection.. I wish I knew how detailed the information that a std ecu had on knock but I don't.. Syvecs will listen to all 4 individually.. It knows when they are firing and takes appropriate action with that cylinder alone. I would guess the std ecu is listening to all 4 but takes action overall. I doubt that your fears are real.. As cyl 4 is no more likely to die than any other in my experience.. But warrants further investigation perhaps. Thanks for that thought worm that will live in my head for a while now 🤣
The purpose of the cylinder 4 cooling mod was due to the ej257 ringland issue, I believe. There was testing done on engine cylinder temps and found cylinder 4 is at a higher temp than the others. @GetADomTune has some great info on it. /e some redundancies
Interesting that these are being marketed to EJ20 owners.. Solving a problem that doesn't exist for them or doesn't actually cause any Ringland issues on that engine.
Well, I think the testing was prompted by the ringland failures that were happening so often over here. Results showed a significant decrease in temps in any EJ. Knock reduction in cylinder 4 ftw! (From my basic reading comprehension, at least... haha)
I would say use the cylinder four cooling mod to help prevent future issues with inadequate cooling efficiency. This is the real reason to put one of these on. The original get a dom tune is the way to go. However wouldn’t parallel fuel lines fix this issue as a lack of fuel consistency in cylinder four from the stock fuel line setup could be fixed with parallel fuel lines as the stock layout causes cylinder four to not have enough fuel and cause ringland failure?
I put samco inlet hose, expensive af and I was very dissapointed with it, inside it had silicon strings and flops that I had to cut out, from the outside it didn't fit at all to the intake pipe...more cutting. Not even talking about the extra nipple I had to plug. I thought samco is the best hose manufacturer. Long story short I ordered STi red silicon inlet hose, the quality is incomparable and I will be switching it asap. I would't do all this but my plastic hose had some cracks so it needed changing, very brittle after 20 years...
And thank you for this video, I will always listen to an experienced subaru expert to learn more. Also Luke Towan (subaru daily show) has a very nice video series about EJ cooling and 4 cylinder mod, but if you have equal length headers you should be fine (I installed it because I like to tinker with my car even though I am aware that subaru engineers probably know better than me)
My pleasure.. I think with times as they are at the moment some mfrs are cutting some corners on quality. I did see a great solid inlet pipe recently but can't recall what make it was. Good quality and price too iirc. Thanks for watching 🙏
@@racedynamix yes please let me know if you the name of find it . And when will an better header be needed \ what’s the stock capable of ej 205 for reference
Yep, that's a short shifter scored off my theoretical shopping list. Maybe upgrading the bushings is a better option? Mines the 5 speed WRX, I don't drive it like a lunatic and I'd agree that slowly and gently is the way (and the only way from 5th to 4th.)
i agree with everything he aid but short shifter KITS help a lot for shift times and shifter feel, I installed a reputable short shifter kit in my 2020 WRX, but with other mods he said is true never cut quality for cost effectiveness since it will cost you in the long run
Excellent video as always thank goodness I only have 1 on the list the turbo timer thank you for keeping my car running can't wait to have the clutch done see you soon thank you
It's a beautiful piece of work but it can cause people to rush the synchros and break them. On a wrx std 5 speed the shock can be very bad for it. On a 6 speed the only danger is synchro. On a dog box though they would be fab. Catch can.. Good shout. I do personally believe in these but there are good and bad.. Will have a think about how to show this in a video 🙏
Ha ha. Enjoyed your super calm rant. Made total sense. My JDM Legacy has run sweet since you tweaked it for UK fuel. Would be most interested in the pro arguments for No.4 cylinder cooling mod.
#9 I agree but I will find out as I have egt going in on a factory header and will see what temps are like prior to doing the mod pending I feel there enough of a temp difference to do it
I have my stock bypass valve and a new tdo4 oem turbo, prodrive exhaust, killer b inlet and Cobb intake. I had the 02 dyno’d and it put down the same power 252hp and 250 tq.
Turbo timers on water cooled turbos is always a favourite of mine lol. People who fit a Chav valve on a stock wrx with 0.8 bar of boost need a slap, the oem will make a noise if the car is modded/mapped well. Cylinder 4 cooling mod has surely been created by someone who ran out of things to do on their Subaru, or listened to all the Facebook thermodynamic experts that can diagnose an engine failure with their x-ray vision from an 8 second mobile phone video 🤣🤣
100% with the cooling mod on number 4 never heard of it and never had any probs with no4 but the last 2 years it sceem to be a think wast money on crap lol
Ive worked with andy /with him / ESL for 5 years naking engines / car and had no problems with no 4 like you say snake oil /just a scam lol@@racedynamix
Got a question. OEM newage recirc value. I had one fitted to my hawk sti and bought another one as it looked nearly brand new ( newage ) but the spring is piss peak compared to my nearly solid one that I took off. Driving doesn't seem much different. Guessing it was from a WRX and not a sti. Any concerns with boost lower down ?
Hi Ben.. They are the same part for wrx and sti afaik.. Spring should be the same. It could make it hesitant or more likely to stall if it isn't shutting quickly enough I believe
Great content, I’ve already fitted my headers but I think the standard will be going bk on with the decat up pipe . Thank u for your knowledge and wisdom. Can u blank of the dump valve on a standard ej205 2001 with no other mods ? And no running issues. On standard boost
Thanks. Yeah good plan re the headers imo 👍 The only slight side effect is some jerkiness coming on and off throttle.. Try it to see whether noticeable for you 👍
Another great Video Duncan I have fell foul the the gaskets destroyed a vf48 turbo I will only use steel gaskets in the future Have you ever tuned any cars with arashi turbos and your thoughts on them
Thanks Craig. Is yours running mafless or std set up? If mafless, so long as the dump valve that was there wasn't leaking it won't make a difference. If std set up then it can make it a little jerky coming on and off throttle.. But try it and see 👍
@@craigbetts9399 personally I haven't seen any negative effects but I am sure people will try and blame a turbo failure on it. If the turbo breaks.. Upgrade time 😉
@@racedynamix Excellent :p i was like wait should i have went oem instead. First turbo Subaru, have decided to go the tactrix route and learn to street tune myself. Going over everything making sure i have a solid platform before i start going at it. Thanks for all the videos!! '12 FXT 4eat(sadly).
What headers brand you recommend I have a Japp speed headers that the previous owner fitted I’m not sure weather they are any good. From your experience if I was to want more power in the future would there need replacing?
Up to just under 400 bhp the std sti headers and uppipe are amazing. Beyond that either port the std headers to the gasket witness marks or a good set of gt spec whether that is RCM, Fuji, Lateral etc.. They are all effectively the same 👍
@@racedynamix the end goal is to get it around 400bhp, however I have very limited knowledge on what needs to be done to achieve this. Regarding engine work and supporting modifications such as fuel and cooling system as well as the oil system. I would be interested in getting the car on the Dyno as it stands now so someone could look through the data and see if there is any under lying issues I recall you mentioning a service you provided however I can’t remember where I saw it. So yeah 400 is the goal
Not bad for engine but can be a little worse for the turbo.. But all good things are bad for the turbo in lots of ways. If it is a td04 then they are cheap as chips anyway, the bigger and better turbos are fine with it in the whole 👍
@racedynamix hi again mate, im getting my car tuned and a reputable tuner here(Australia) said with a 3in tbe he could only get me about 30kw atw more than stock, ( so around 140kw ((187hp)) assuming its 110kw stock) but didn't you say a blobeye will get 290 hp with a tbe and panel filter? Im confused as to why he cant get more, is it potentially unsafe for my engine or am i missing something? Thanks in advance
@@PedroFTeixeira the dump valve is blocked off when on boost anyway.. Blanking it off doesn't change that. Remap is always a good idea though if it hasn't been Tuned before 👍
F the cylinder 4 cooling mod. All it does is normalise cylinder temps across the board, yes c4 is slightly lower but the rest are alot higher. Where is the knock sensor again?
Hi, I've got my dumpvalve blanked atm. I've been thinking to get a gfb recirculating dumpvalve fitted before mapping. Do you think its worth doing or pointless?
@@Ilyas-hu8jy with the Apexi I think I would run the dump valve because the maf is fragile. But when you go link my thoughts would be to blank it off 👍
At least in the states the stock tune is garbage. For that very reason at least a pro tune is needed. Additionally an AOS to protect against the detonation-causing oily blowby turbo motors produce.
I have a set of Tomei headers that do a similar 4 into 1 merge, but its after the turns and appears to be a smoother transition than the Chinese ones you showed. Wish I got the tomei ones sooner, I made 590bhp on 30psi with a very heavily built motor and Garrett gtx3076r, and similar headers to the ones you showed here. Might have made 600 if I knew better sooner!
Your turbo timer warning was something I had never considered.
As for the cooling mod. It balances out you coolant flow for both sides of the engine. In stock configuration the coolant flows much better on the turbo side due the the extra flow going to cool the turbo. The mod balances the flow better and brings your cylinder temperatures closer to each other.
With the low flow speed of the coolant and the bend in the exhaust port, cylinder 4 is always hotter than the rest.
Thanks. I understand the reasoning for it, but could also argue that the knock sensor is located there and as that is the theoretical worst cylinder (although that is the one cylinder/piston I haven't broken in the past) that it is designed that way to give early warning. Evening out temps could reduce that early warning maybe ?
From my experience in road going subarus and extreme 850bhp time attack racers it hasn't been necessary and I have seen lots of downsides.
I am still unconvinced 👍
@@racedynamix Contacting Dom from Getadomtune for an interview may make a good a TH-cam video. He's a great information source and has done a lot of development on the EJ.
Bugger.. I am guilty of one of these and that’s the cylinder 4 cooling mod lol.
I'm happy to be persuaded on that.. But just never had the need for it myself on any of my subarus. Thank you for watching 🙏
@@racedynamix well I guess if nothing else as long as it doesn’t leak it can do no harm of it doesn’t do no good. I listened to the internet and they told me I should do it 🤦🏻♂️. In my defence we have a nod a little like this in the classic mini world to help coolant flow through the block as you end up with a dead spot on no4 which tends to running higher ( different car and different engine I know but this is the best defence I can come up with)
I've done it to, 4 years ago. I track the car... a little more cooling can't do any harm. Haven't had an issue, but I also don't know if it's doing any difference.
Would be interesting to hear your take on Catch Cans/ Air Oil Separators. Also aftermarket air intakes (cone filter things), heard the stock one is good enough for most applications!
Catch cans have been mentioned by another in the comments.. It will be done 👍
Air intakes is dependant on power target.. What are you looking for?
I've got a 2006 FSTi, eventually looking to get around the mid 300 range, nothing extreme but a nice bump. Got my eye on the TD05 18G turbo too...
A genuine 18g is a great turbo.. But a cheap one not good. A vf43 or vf48 is a safer bet 👍
@@antares4755 if your willing to drop some
Money into the engine the vf41 which is standard on the fsti can achieve 371 with supporting mods @racedynamix can vouch for that 😉
@@racedynamixi found out the only time a cheap chinese turbo worth doing is to send them for seal and bearing replacement using genuine unit at turbo rebuilder...
Which usually still abit cheaper than branded name turbo unit...
Alternatively, to limit the boost up to only 1bar of pressure...generally thats the borderline for them cheap turbo to fail on the seals...
Great Call on the Coil Packs...
😁👍
I believe that was my short shifter 😃. And yes I have a issue with 4 gear selection on boost wonder weather this caused it? Hoping I can bump into you for a chat next time your at triton?
You can have it back now 😁😁. Thanks for the loan. And yeah happy for a chat etc 👍👍
Another Great video Duncan, as a new Subaru sti owner it’s brilliant watching your videos and couldn’t have been more of a gent mapping my widetrack sti last week at Surrey rolling road. Straight forward and sound advice.
My pleasure Mark. I may use the old map from your car in a future video 😉
Taught me a lesson even if you buy a car that is apparently standard take it to somebody that knows and have it checked out. Could of quite easily carried on driving it without knowing, it’s stuff like that gives these cars a bad reputation. Yeah happy for it to be in a video would give buyers like me at my age 😞 a heads up.
I had to skip to 10 first watch, I just knew this was going to happen... then re watched. Now I understand more about the toyos after a good angle grind, that is horrendous..
Yes mate. If you compare the flow and blending within RCM headers for example they are shocking in comparison. I didn't even mention the horrific flexing joint 😂
Hi Duncan, Great video. Thanks! Ramping up the production quality 👌
Thank you very much Reuben. I am trying to learn new skills in premiere pro to make it look and flow better.. Lighting and sound are easier to control in here but not as I want it quite yet. I would love to get the lighting/set up in the workshop and dyno right but that is a nightmare of strange colour casts at the mo. 🙏🙏
@@racedynamix Yikes, I often film in my workshop with small machinery, which challenges me.. Not quite as intense an environment for filming/recording as your industrial fans/ventilation, dyno and a WOT pull.
Great stuff mate.
@@ReubenSchoots cool. The dyno environment is horrendous... Big fans that blow tripods over, drown out voices and engine notes andlighting (or lack of) from hell.. It is a challenge for sure 🤣
Thanks for the video, bit unfair on surefire though, they are a decent replacement for failed standard ones and are significantly more cost effective.
No worries.. Surefire £170 versus £140 for brand new subaru sti ones. I know which I would fit 👍
@@racedynamix that’s not correct proper OE ones on import car parts are £100 each.
You're right.. Sorry about that. The std ones are better though. They fit on the plug better, whereas the surefire ones kind of stick when pushing on. Perhaps a little unfair of me.. But I have had many customers with misfire issues with new surefire coils and almost never have a problem with the std ones.. Even second hand tbh. Some are showing signs of age now so difficult to get good second hand ones. 👍
I don't really follow the forums like I used to, but it did always amuse me how there always a 'trendy mod of the time' the one I never understood, and still don't, is bonnet struts that get in the way and reduce access.
Oh I like bonnet struts.. Probably born from when I knocked the std bonnet stay away and the bonnet landed on me 🤣
i'm actually running the cheapest maxpeeding rods TD04L-13T turbo on my sf5 forester for more than 25.000km right now. no problems at all. only thing i did was port the hell out of the turbine inlet, port the wastegate and check the whole turbo.
Im also running a cheap ebay bov, i polished the inside, fitted a much stiffer spring, and used fitting tape and orings on all the parts. But i have to agree that there not that great.
Hi. I'm not saying they all are rubbish but you were obviously well aware of the potential issues and mitigated them.. Well done 👏😎
Brilliant video. Great to see someone put their neck on the line and say dump valves are nothing but trouble. I put one on my fiesta turbo in my early twenties. It was exactly as you point out. Nothing but trouble. 100% not putting one on my foz. Thanks for another great video.
Thank you very much buddy. Appreciate the positive feedback from a fellow YT person.
Opinions are always something I have had.. I don't think I will be on toyosports Xmas card list 🤣
Every Subaru tuner that has a name will tell you block it off
@@Kenny.G-33 indeed.. Unless they sell dump valves 😉
@@racedynamix depends they may send you some coal 🤣
@@Scoobybowman 🤣
I have owned a few odd-engine cars. I have an FD rx7 and a 22 Subaru BRZ. I was a mechanic for years. Love your honesty and some of the crap I've seen roll in made me scratch my head and ask WHY? Same, is true for Rotary Engines cheap parts and bad tuning = BOOM.
Yeah, absolutely. The rotary engine is not one I have tunes but the basics are the same 👍
@@racedynamix They aren't as bad as people claim. I used to have guys at autox razzing me about them being unreliable but I wasn't the one towing my car home. Same with Subaru engines here in the States. Thanks for the honest information you provide.
@CrazyCat229 my pleasure .. Love the sound of the rotary on full chat 😍
@@racedynamix I'm addicted to the boxer burble and the rotary brap, cheers!
I can purchase that bee r rev limiter now as it wasn’t on the list lol, some quality info there thanks Duncan I do like a quality dump valve though but that goes back to my Renault 5gt turbo days lol
Nooooooooooooooo 🤣
I remember years ago people having to take off zero sports induction hard pipe elbows as they were too restrictive when being mapped but they looked nice lol
Great video, I believe the cylinder 4 cooling mod is mostly a thing for us USDM folk that have unequal length headers from the factory.
We have the same here 👍
Another great, informative video! Thank you! If we are playing "Scooby mod bingo", the only mod I have on my FSTI that is on the list is the Cyl4 cooling mod and I was skeptical about it from the start, so I used a heat gun to check before and after, and it did bring the temp on cyl4 down a bit, but we are talking 3-5deg C (taken on the surface of the head). The overall temp of the coolant was also reduced a little bit (around 5c). Those tests were only done at idle when the car was up to temp and the results are negligible so my conclusion: Does it need the mod? No. Does it hurt to have it? probably not. If I get another Scooby, will I do the mod again? I doubt it. I am a bit concerned that the only knock sensor is on cyl4, so if (big if!) I have reduced the probability in knock on 4, have I reduced the overall knock protection??
Great point re the knock protection.. I wish I knew how detailed the information that a std ecu had on knock but I don't.. Syvecs will listen to all 4 individually.. It knows when they are firing and takes appropriate action with that cylinder alone. I would guess the std ecu is listening to all 4 but takes action overall.
I doubt that your fears are real.. As cyl 4 is no more likely to die than any other in my experience.. But warrants further investigation perhaps. Thanks for that thought worm that will live in my head for a while now 🤣
The purpose of the cylinder 4 cooling mod was due to the ej257 ringland issue, I believe. There was testing done on engine cylinder temps and found cylinder 4 is at a higher temp than the others. @GetADomTune has some great info on it. /e some redundancies
Thanks.. I will dig out that testing. 🙏
Interesting that these are being marketed to EJ20 owners.. Solving a problem that doesn't exist for them or doesn't actually cause any Ringland issues on that engine.
Well, I think the testing was prompted by the ringland failures that were happening so often over here. Results showed a significant decrease in temps in any EJ. Knock reduction in cylinder 4 ftw! (From my basic reading comprehension, at least... haha)
I would say use the cylinder four cooling mod to help prevent future issues with inadequate cooling efficiency. This is the real reason to put one of these on. The original get a dom tune is the way to go. However wouldn’t parallel fuel lines fix this issue as a lack of fuel consistency in cylinder four from the stock fuel line setup could be fixed with parallel fuel lines as the stock layout causes cylinder four to not have enough fuel and cause ringland failure?
@toplistcrew7645 No, parallel rails do not fix this issue.
I put samco inlet hose, expensive af and I was very dissapointed with it, inside it had silicon strings and flops that I had to cut out, from the outside it didn't fit at all to the intake pipe...more cutting. Not even talking about the extra nipple I had to plug. I thought samco is the best hose manufacturer. Long story short I ordered STi red silicon inlet hose, the quality is incomparable and I will be switching it asap. I would't do all this but my plastic hose had some cracks so it needed changing, very brittle after 20 years...
And thank you for this video, I will always listen to an experienced subaru expert to learn more.
Also Luke Towan (subaru daily show) has a very nice video series about EJ cooling and 4 cylinder mod, but if you have equal length headers you should be fine (I installed it because I like to tinker with my car even though I am aware that subaru engineers probably know better than me)
My pleasure.. I think with times as they are at the moment some mfrs are cutting some corners on quality. I did see a great solid inlet pipe recently but can't recall what make it was. Good quality and price too iirc. Thanks for watching 🙏
Any way I love the original shifter throw. I only want it firm it up a bit ... and watt is my best option if the Orem inlet is damaged
👍 I will try and remember the details of this great solid inlet pipe a customer had 👍
@@racedynamix yes please let me know if you the name of find it . And when will an better header be needed \ what’s the stock capable of ej 205 for reference
@@tdro98 std unequal headers are good for 395bhp on my experience. Porting out those to the gaskets mark and they are good for lots 👌
@@tdro98 anything 5ply silicone wall or better.. Mishimoto
Yep, that's a short shifter scored off my theoretical shopping list. Maybe upgrading the bushings is a better option? Mines the 5 speed WRX, I don't drive it like a lunatic and I'd agree that slowly and gently is the way (and the only way from 5th to 4th.)
i agree with everything he aid but short shifter KITS help a lot for shift times and shifter feel, I installed a reputable short shifter kit in my 2020 WRX, but with other mods he said is true never cut quality for cost effectiveness since it will cost you in the long run
👍
Excellent video as always thank goodness I only have 1 on the list the turbo timer thank you for keeping my car running can't wait to have the clutch done see you soon thank you
Thanks Paul. Hope it's sorted soon 👍
That’s answered some of my questions! Thanks
😁👍. See you later in the week sir.
@@racedynamix The nervousness has set in again! £££’s later let’s see if it makes a difference
That Cobb shifter news is worrying..
Please do a part 2.. would like to see catch cans as a topic.
It's a beautiful piece of work but it can cause people to rush the synchros and break them. On a wrx std 5 speed the shock can be very bad for it. On a 6 speed the only danger is synchro. On a dog box though they would be fab.
Catch can.. Good shout. I do personally believe in these but there are good and bad.. Will have a think about how to show this in a video 🙏
Ha ha. Enjoyed your super calm rant. Made total sense. My JDM Legacy has run sweet since you tweaked it for UK fuel. Would be most interested in the pro arguments for No.4 cylinder cooling mod.
Haha.. I've yet to hear any coherent pro arguments or evidence for it.
#9 I agree but I will find out as I have egt going in on a factory header and will see what temps are like prior to doing the mod pending I feel there enough of a temp difference to do it
Be very interested to hear the results of that 👍
I have my stock bypass valve and a new tdo4 oem turbo, prodrive exhaust, killer b inlet and Cobb intake. I had the 02 dyno’d and it put down the same power 252hp and 250 tq.
Was it mapped?
I love your common sense approach. A lot of what you are saying goes for all cars. Cheap parts a never a good idea if you are keeping your car.
Thanks a lot buddy.. I try to keep it sensible 🙏
Turbo timers on water cooled turbos is always a favourite of mine lol. People who fit a Chav valve on a stock wrx with 0.8 bar of boost need a slap, the oem will make a noise if the car is modded/mapped well. Cylinder 4 cooling mod has surely been created by someone who ran out of things to do on their Subaru, or listened to all the Facebook thermodynamic experts that can diagnose an engine failure with their x-ray vision from an 8 second mobile phone video 🤣🤣
😁👍
Another gem of information...You have a new subscriber
Welcome aboard! 😎
Im guilty of the silicone inlet pipe. Just dropped mine off to garage to have some bits fitted and this is one of them 😢
How flexible is the silicone inlet?
@racedynamix Seems to be ok, got it off MB developments who were breaking a hawkeye sti.
Another enjoyable and very interesting video Dunc, keep them coming!
You’ve been dying to cut them headers up 😂
Absolutely Richard 🤣🤣
100% with the cooling mod on number 4 never heard of it and never had any probs with no4 but the last 2 years it sceem to be a think wast money on crap lol
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Ive worked with andy /with him / ESL for 5 years naking engines / car and had no problems with no 4 like you say snake oil /just a scam lol@@racedynamix
Got a question.
OEM newage recirc value. I had one fitted to my hawk sti and bought another one as it looked nearly brand new ( newage ) but the spring is piss peak compared to my nearly solid one that I took off. Driving doesn't seem much different. Guessing it was from a WRX and not a sti. Any concerns with boost lower down ?
Hi Ben.. They are the same part for wrx and sti afaik.. Spring should be the same. It could make it hesitant or more likely to stall if it isn't shutting quickly enough I believe
Very interesting share your opinion on everything you mentioned
Thank you 🙏
I had done everything you said to do and nothing from this video. I'm accidentally a professional tuner🤣
Lol. Congratulations 👏👍
Great content, I’ve already fitted my headers but I think the standard will be going bk on with the decat up pipe . Thank u for your knowledge and wisdom. Can u blank of the dump valve on a standard ej205 2001 with no other mods ? And no running issues. On standard boost
Thanks. Yeah good plan re the headers imo 👍
The only slight side effect is some jerkiness coming on and off throttle.. Try it to see whether noticeable for you 👍
I have been having an issue with my stock shifter after I had the diff service done at the dealer now it grinds when I shift into 4th
Which diff did they service ?
@@racedynamix front and rear differential service
@@bloodpoolxtc702 I would suggest taking it back to them, either the oil is wrong or not enough in there.
Another great Video Duncan I have fell foul the the gaskets destroyed a vf48 turbo I will only use steel gaskets in the future
Have you ever tuned any cars with arashi turbos and your thoughts on them
Thanks Grant🙏. Yes I have... They weren't impressive. Fastline would be my recommendation 👍
Yes the vf400 I would of gone for knowing what I know now for £200 more🤦🏻never mind
Well the gasket demo was graghic better as fire starter's
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Red sure fire coils..I took that bait ☹️ one failed after a 3 days..!! I wonder how many people with Toyo headers fitted see this video and 😢
They will already be crying Steve. Hopefully they will understand why now 😁
Good Stuff 👍 Is it safe to run the dump valve blanked? 2002 Impreza Sti , Mapped by yourself a couple of years ago
Thanks Craig. Is yours running mafless or std set up? If mafless, so long as the dump valve that was there wasn't leaking it won't make a difference. If std set up then it can make it a little jerky coming on and off throttle.. But try it and see 👍
@@racedynamix Standard mate, just a decat and 3 port boost solenoid. Just wondered if it was likely to have any adverse effects on the turbo ?
@@craigbetts9399 personally I haven't seen any negative effects but I am sure people will try and blame a turbo failure on it. If the turbo breaks.. Upgrade time 😉
Have you had any issues with the Cobb inlet piping or any of the other, i got one thinking it would be reliable as my stock one was done for.
Cobb make great stuff imo 😎
@@racedynamix Excellent :p i was like wait should i have went oem instead. First turbo Subaru, have decided to go the tactrix route and learn to street tune myself. Going over everything making sure i have a solid platform before i start going at it. Thanks for all the videos!! '12 FXT 4eat(sadly).
I don't see a problem with short shifter if you don't go crazy and slamming into gears
Exactly 👍
What headers brand you recommend I have a Japp speed headers that the previous owner fitted I’m not sure weather they are any good. From your experience if I was to want more power in the future would there need replacing?
Up to just under 400 bhp the std sti headers and uppipe are amazing. Beyond that either port the std headers to the gasket witness marks or a good set of gt spec whether that is RCM, Fuji, Lateral etc.. They are all effectively the same 👍
@@racedynamix I’m not sure what you mean be std?
@@madmuffin12345 when and if your headers need replacing depends on what power you are trying to get to. 👍
@@racedynamix the end goal is to get it around 400bhp, however I have very limited knowledge on what needs to be done to achieve this. Regarding engine work and supporting modifications such as fuel and cooling system as well as the oil system.
I would be interested in getting the car on the Dyno as it stands now so someone could look through the data and see if there is any under lying issues I recall you mentioning a service you provided however I can’t remember where I saw it. So yeah 400 is the goal
Hi mate, you talked about blanking the bpv off completely, do you think thats bad for the engine or turbo?
Not bad for engine but can be a little worse for the turbo.. But all good things are bad for the turbo in lots of ways. If it is a td04 then they are cheap as chips anyway, the bigger and better turbos are fine with it in the whole 👍
@@racedynamix stock turbo 03 blobeye
@@johnorr2241 tbh, the sound effects from blanking it off may not be worth it.. You may think they are though 👍
@racedynamix no im listening mate lol. Just bought a bov but might not put it on now
@racedynamix hi again mate, im getting my car tuned and a reputable tuner here(Australia) said with a 3in tbe he could only get me about 30kw atw more than stock, ( so around 140kw ((187hp)) assuming its 110kw stock) but didn't you say a blobeye will get 290 hp with a tbe and panel filter? Im confused as to why he cant get more, is it potentially unsafe for my engine or am i missing something? Thanks in advance
Hey Duncan, is it better to go high quality blow off valve or delete?
Hi. A delete is free tbh (easy to rig up a blanking plate) .. So I would try that first to see whether you like it 👍
@@racedynamixWould you delete it on a standard car still with a MAF sensor? Probably would need a remap after that, no?
@@PedroFTeixeira the dump valve is blocked off when on boost anyway.. Blanking it off doesn't change that. Remap is always a good idea though if it hasn't been Tuned before 👍
@@racedynamix I heard it's not good on the turbo or is it negligible? Thanks for the reply Dunca :)
@@BlueMica63 all the good stuff is bad for the car or turbo in some way. Negligible impact in my experience
F the cylinder 4 cooling mod. All it does is normalise cylinder temps across the board, yes c4 is slightly lower but the rest are alot higher. Where is the knock sensor again?
Great point 👍
Hi, I've got my dumpvalve blanked atm. I've been thinking to get a gfb recirculating dumpvalve fitted before mapping. Do you think its worth doing or pointless?
How's it running with it blanked? What turbo btw?
@@racedynamix thinking the blanking bung kit and v22 hybrid
@@Ilyas-hu8jy is it on the std ecu running with a maf sensor?
@racedynamix yes standard orange maf and its on apexi fc atm but will be going with the link g4x next
@@Ilyas-hu8jy with the Apexi I think I would run the dump valve because the maf is fragile. But when you go link my thoughts would be to blank it off 👍
the best mod you can do is stay STOCK ;)
I prefer 'almost' stock .. But yeah, the std cars are fabulous 👌
At least in the states the stock tune is garbage. For that very reason at least a pro tune is needed. Additionally an AOS to protect against the detonation-causing oily blowby turbo motors produce.
I have a set of Tomei headers that do a similar 4 into 1 merge, but its after the turns and appears to be a smoother transition than the Chinese ones you showed. Wish I got the tomei ones sooner, I made 590bhp on 30psi with a very heavily built motor and Garrett gtx3076r, and similar headers to the ones you showed here. Might have made 600 if I knew better sooner!
The Tomei ones are nice 😎
@@racedynamix thank you for replying! And I'm thoroughly glad you approve 👌
I wish you done this vid 10 years ago I wouldn’t have wasted all that money 😂
Same.. I wished I had watched this 23 yrs ago when I got my first scooby.. I would be much richer too 🤣
70 retired 2006 Subaru sti with spt add ons. Nothing else
Wizard Sleeve 😂
😂😂
haha so silly ;}
thank you 😁