I check oil on my ej205 almost daily and it's a wrecker engine with no history and has been running 18psi on a VF35 for 50k miles, perfect compression scores. Great quality oil is key! Changed regularly and always topped up!
Loving the video output, good mix of tuning lives and other videos, stellar content as usual mate, thanks for putting the time and effort into making them.
I had a 2006 STI, currently driving a 2004 B4 and looking for a 2017/18 STI. I love Subaru but why?? When I could just get something else and remove at least some of these headaches....I don't understand why I can't shake the Subbie love
Next to an ej205 forester xt, I also have a h6 2gen outback, nearly 300k km. I actually road tripped that 20 year old thing putting 5k km in basically 2 weeks through alps, through Germany’s autobahn cruising at 160km/h. I thought it would burn at least a bit of oil - nope, didn’t move from F on the stick. I love those h6 engines. All they need is a turbo and the six speed box.
Thanks man, i bought a stock wrx sti with 31k miles. I always warm it up before i drive and give it 2-3 minute cool down time before i exist the car. I never drive hard unless i have been driving for atleast 8-12 minutes after the warm up i give it before i take off. I set my oil changes every 4k miles to be notified i need a change. I daily drive. Its 100 percent stock. Just how it came out the factory. I dont even want to put muffler delete cause im worried it would harm my car. I avg about 23mpg and 20 city. I drive my car prettt conservative some times ill send it a little and have. Some fun but never red line or have the shifter light come on to change gears. Im so worried i made a mistake buying this car. My heart aches...
If the car is mapped for 99 and you run it on 99 then octane boosters is just a waste of money. Only exception being for a track day where a bit of extra safety isn't a bad thing 👍 imo of course
I have a wrx hawkeye with 60k on clock running 333bhp and a wrx sti with 18k on clock both do around 3-4k a year and get a service on every mot. I check my oil every few weeks and they both never need topped up. I watch ytube vids of peoples subarus with ringland failures and i would hate this to happen to me but ive got money aside just incase 😂😂😂
@@racedynamix funny enough, my car has a sh!t map on it at the moment after a forged build. It has a fuel stubble at 1900rpm and cold start idle issue. Where the rev needle jumps up and down a little. Richard O'Donovan at Zen has looked at the map and isn't impressed, had det at 3/4 throttle and was running rich. So Rich pulled back timing so it was safe to drive home. It's booked in to see him this week, as he couldn't tweek it to make run any better, last week. He believes it could be a maf issue and is also attaching a sensor to my downpipe for proper A/F readings whilst mapping. He is having my car for a week testing everything. Any tips or advice from your experience would be greatly appreciated.
Another great video! In regards good engine oil, what sort of oil you recommend for stock 2003 2.0xt forester? Any chance you are planning some remap sessions near Norfolk at some point 😁?
Any differences between a classic short block and a newage? On the point of number 10 i have an ej205 s/block in the garage and wondering if i grab the blobeye heads i have and build a second motor for my blob, any differences to note?
It depends on the short block tbh.. Some of the closed deck classic engines need machining to accept the later stronger cranks. A spare engine is always a good thing then it doesn't matter what happens to the main engine 🤣 Its a good learning experience to put it together too 👍
@@racedynamix the spare i have is open deck, think im going to strip it down and may fork out to have it pinned or closed deck inserts when i have the block cleaned up, Current motor is using more oil than id like so be getting on with that sooner rather than later i think
@@racedynamixcould you do a video on the different types of ej engine such as closed decked and open deck and what the advantages and disadvantages aswell as some block modifications you would recommend? Such as pinning and inserts
For the checking oil, when I leave it over night and check in the morning the oil is to the full mark, but if I drive for a bit to warm up the oil and then turn it off and let it sit for a hour, it shows completely no oil, which one is accurate? This is for the 2006 STI 2.5L
@@racedynamix yesterday I drove to warm up and then let it sit for 5 minutes and both side of the dipstick showed empty. I let it sit for 7 hours and checked and both sides were still empty, so I added 1.5 quarts and it was between the low and high dots. I let it sit overnight and checked again this morning and it showed the same between low and high dots. I drove to work and it sat for 8 hours and I just checked and it's now above and over the high dot. I wiped the dipstick and reinserted and it's still above and over the high dot. We've owned dozens of cars over the years and never had issues reading a dipstick, so hard for this car.
Hey mate, new subscriber from Australia here! Just found your channel and I've really been enjoying your videos I just had a question, for a wrx that will see light track use, what are your implementations against oil and fuel surging And how can I give my 5 speed a long life, I saw that you mentioned not to install a short shifter as one of the things, is there anything else? Cheers! Edit: For some context I've got a 1999 wrx, not sure if that matters tho 😅
Trying desperately hard not to say goodday.. Damn I failed 😁 Oil surge.. Unless you can fit a proper baffled sump (not the baffle plate) or dry sump then it is always a tightrope.. Slightly overfill the oil and check after each track session. If you can have a oil pressure gauge ideally mounted on window pillar so you can see it in your eye line around long corners.. I guess most tracks there are clockwise too. Lift if you start seeing it drop mid long corner. Fuel surge.. Solution is swirl pot and external pump. Aside from that keeping it above 1/2 tank solves it but the car is slower 😢 I hope you stick around.. I will be doing some track focused vids soon as my background of time attack taught me loads on that. (expensive lessons 😱)
Im about to sell my Hatch sti to get a 17 plate Sti. My Hatch its obviously 2.5 chocolate engine but forged so my question is.... If i get a standard 17 plate sti, would it be best to forge it or Would it be fine if i get a front mount and intake and map. My experience is colder the pistons the better
Hi Nick. The 17 plate is still a weak engine but if it were mine I would wait til it needs forging before doing it. The std engine should be able to cope with whatever the std turbo can produce. If you plan on changing the pistons at some point though it won't come as too much of a shock to you 👍
@racedynamix I don't want much out of it really, I've come to the age where I just want a clean car with a bit of power. 330-350 is plenty for road use. I do love a front mount tho so I'll probably will go for one, plus a intake then ill give you shout for a map. I just get nervous with the 2.5L. So expensive to forge it 😫
Hi. It's not something we get here in the UK tbh. It has some really good features but like all US software now it is limited by the green speed initiative to what can be disabled etc
Any way to reduce crank case pressure? My EJ20 blob is running 350hp and having to top up oil every couple hundred miles, getting a little bit of smoke at WOT, been through and done PCV system and just done both valve covers to stop the little leaks so 100% sure no more leaks
Loving the videos but its only taken me 2 years to find this channel. can you please fire your youtube guy, you need to get all the keyowrds relating to subaru in your description box as it doesnt come up when searching.. cheers. keep up the great videos !!
My 2020 Outback has never consumed oil I check it regularly. I also change the oil as stated in the manual and only use what is recommended by the manufacturer. I think it’s when people use thicker viscosity oils is when they consume oil.
Hi.. Thanks for the comment.. The manual is really useful and often ignored 👍 I'm not sure I agree re thicker oil, I find 15/50 to be the best for my race engines personally and that certain makes seemed to vanish.. Notably castrol Magnatec. But it is a largely superstitious subject and one that it is really hard to test in real world conditions so as to make recommendations to a wider audience... I will try though 👍
You can’t always get help from the dealer .... I sent my car to the local dealer to diagnose the misfire issue. They had it for 3-4 days an said ... we don’t know . We can’t find the problem... turns out it was bad compression/ cylinder leak down . I feel they should have found that
@@racedynamix I know this is kind of imposeble to answer but the car had a vf34 turbo swap and replaced pistons and rods in 2018 in ones garage . Ben driving un tuned since. (Not by me) Watt do you think is damaged cylinder wall. Pistons or pistons rings. And depending the damage will it be worth working on ( believe it a 205 open deck) I have got another 205 “for now” a part of me wanted to rebuild upgrade and put the original in at some point . Even it is kind of silly if it is open deck..
@@tdro98 my guess would be ringlands had gone and the chunks of the ringland have scored the bores. Use a rebuild as a learning experience and it is worthwhile but it won't ever be a strong engine regardless of what trick bits you put in it tbh
I check oil on my ej205 almost daily and it's a wrecker engine with no history and has been running 18psi on a VF35 for 50k miles, perfect compression scores. Great quality oil is key! Changed regularly and always topped up!
Absolutely 👍👌
#10 … how do they know? They definitely do though, that’s a fact!
Definitely do 🤣
I think my missis must be a Subaru too because she also knows how much contingency funds I’ve got 😂
🤣🤣
They have a sixth sense too 😉🤣
#10 is gold. Another great list. As always, I’m looking forward to the next instalment.
Cheers!
Thanks mate. Number 10 is just so true 🙏
Loving the video output, good mix of tuning lives and other videos, stellar content as usual mate, thanks for putting the time and effort into making them.
I have really been enjoying making them.. Love that you are enjoying them and finding useful 👌. Thank you for watching 🙏
Great advice!!thanks
#10 is just pure GOLD🤣🤣
Thank you very much 🤣🙏
Probably your best video yet ❤
That's very kind of you.. Thank you 🙏
Another little gem of a video 👍
Thank you so much Thomas 🙏
I had a 2006 STI, currently driving a 2004 B4 and looking for a 2017/18 STI. I love Subaru but why?? When I could just get something else and remove at least some of these headaches....I don't understand why I can't shake the Subbie love
Easy ... the same reasons I have had them for 23 yrs now. They get in your soul. No other car does. :)
@@racedynamixmy BMW friends are trying to convince me to replace that soul 😢
@@zro.tolerance resist 😁
I also have a 2006 sti . Have to be on top with maintenance. Not like my 98 Honda prelude
Next to an ej205 forester xt, I also have a h6 2gen outback, nearly 300k km. I actually road tripped that 20 year old thing putting 5k km in basically 2 weeks through alps, through Germany’s autobahn cruising at 160km/h. I thought it would burn at least a bit of oil - nope, didn’t move from F on the stick. I love those h6 engines. All they need is a turbo and the six speed box.
Yeah they are truly epic if looked after 😎
Thanks man, i bought a stock wrx sti with 31k miles. I always warm it up before i drive and give it 2-3 minute cool down time before i exist the car. I never drive hard unless i have been driving for atleast 8-12 minutes after the warm up i give it before i take off. I set my oil changes every 4k miles to be notified i need a change. I daily drive. Its 100 percent stock. Just how it came out the factory. I dont even want to put muffler delete cause im worried it would harm my car. I avg about 23mpg and 20 city. I drive my car prettt conservative some times ill send it a little and have. Some fun but never red line or have the shifter light come on to change gears.
Im so worried i made a mistake buying this car. My heart aches...
Subscribing to your channel very informative 👍
Would you recommend keeping my car 100 percent stock for reliability or do I need to do anything to my wrx sti 2015?
I am worried now.....I am broke and my credit card is maxed. Guess I need to sell the Scooby before it kills itself!
Lol. Don't do that 👍
@@racedynamix can't see me ever selling it! Apart from running costs, it's the perfect car that does everything well.
@@FozzieSTIlife totally agree. They are going up in value too so a great investment too 😎
Great Advise ❤
thanks sir 🙏
Loving these videos 🙂
Thanks Chris.. Anything there that could have helped you? Or shall I do a special for you? 🤔🤣
@@racedynamix Ha ha, I knew about most of them except number 10 so busy saving a pot of money :-)
@@2517jake 🤣
Is it worth adding octane boosters on each fill up if the car is already mapped on 99. Would this be adding a layer of safety.
If the car is mapped for 99 and you run it on 99 then octane boosters is just a waste of money. Only exception being for a track day where a bit of extra safety isn't a bad thing 👍 imo of course
I have a wrx hawkeye with 60k on clock running 333bhp and a wrx sti with 18k on clock both do around 3-4k a year and get a service on every mot. I check my oil every few weeks and they both never need topped up. I watch ytube vids of peoples subarus with ringland failures and i would hate this to happen to me but ive got money aside just incase 😂😂😂
You should be fine then 😁😁
Great advice 👍
Thank you Christopher. 🙏
@@racedynamix funny enough, my car has a sh!t map on it at the moment after a forged build. It has a fuel stubble at 1900rpm and cold start idle issue. Where the rev needle jumps up and down a little. Richard O'Donovan at Zen has looked at the map and isn't impressed, had det at 3/4 throttle and was running rich. So Rich pulled back timing so it was safe to drive home. It's booked in to see him this week, as he couldn't tweek it to make run any better, last week. He believes it could be a maf issue and is also attaching a sensor to my downpipe for proper A/F readings whilst mapping. He is having my car for a week testing everything. Any tips or advice from your experience would be greatly appreciated.
@@christopheredwards357 Richard is a great guy and I am sure will look after your car well. What yr/model is your car?
@@racedynamix 2018 Subaru WRX STI
Been waiting for this
🙏👍
Another great video! In regards good engine oil, what sort of oil you recommend for stock 2003 2.0xt forester? Any chance you are planning some remap sessions near Norfolk at some point 😁?
Thank you very much 🙏
Oil.. A good fully synthetic 10/40 or 10/50 👍
No plans for Norwich at the moment.. But possibly to around Cambridge soon 👍
@@racedynamix Cambridge would be perfect as well, will keep an eye on your calendar 😀
Great video
Thank you very much 🙏🙏
Great advice again duncan, especially no 6. They never learn.🙄
Indeed 👍🙏
Any differences between a classic short block and a newage? On the point of number 10 i have an ej205 s/block in the garage and wondering if i grab the blobeye heads i have and build a second motor for my blob, any differences to note?
It depends on the short block tbh.. Some of the closed deck classic engines need machining to accept the later stronger cranks. A spare engine is always a good thing then it doesn't matter what happens to the main engine 🤣 Its a good learning experience to put it together too 👍
@@racedynamix the spare i have is open deck, think im going to strip it down and may fork out to have it pinned or closed deck inserts when i have the block cleaned up, Current motor is using more oil than id like so be getting on with that sooner rather than later i think
@@traz1123 pinned would be my suggestion 👍
@@racedynamixcould you do a video on the different types of ej engine such as closed decked and open deck and what the advantages and disadvantages aswell as some block modifications you would recommend? Such as pinning and inserts
Awesome information and #10 for sure 😂
Thanks buddy 😁😁
Id have my dirty daily diesel flash mapped but never on this planet would I let my sti
Can't go wrong with Deisel maps.. More boost, more fuel.. Done 🤣 Zero skill involved 👍
@@racedynamix and a James Bond style smoke screen lol
@@bunsofsteeeel 🤣
Bravo 👏🏻! That’s Tremendously Awesome! Cheers!🥂❤️✨
For the checking oil, when I leave it over night and check in the morning the oil is to the full mark, but if I drive for a bit to warm up the oil and then turn it off and let it sit for a hour, it shows completely no oil, which one is accurate? This is for the 2006 STI 2.5L
That's weird.. Is it showing empty on both sides of the dipstick? I have seen a big difference in levels on the twin scroll sump like yours.
@@racedynamix yesterday I drove to warm up and then let it sit for 5 minutes and both side of the dipstick showed empty. I let it sit for 7 hours and checked and both sides were still empty, so I added 1.5 quarts and it was between the low and high dots. I let it sit overnight and checked again this morning and it showed the same between low and high dots. I drove to work and it sat for 8 hours and I just checked and it's now above and over the high dot. I wiped the dipstick and reinserted and it's still above and over the high dot. We've owned dozens of cars over the years and never had issues reading a dipstick, so hard for this car.
I am planning on buying a WRX which will not be a daily drive. Is a JDM 2.004/05 or UK 2.5 06/07?
Jdm will be the better car 👍
Hey mate, new subscriber from Australia here! Just found your channel and I've really been enjoying your videos
I just had a question, for a wrx that will see light track use, what are your implementations against oil and fuel surging
And how can I give my 5 speed a long life, I saw that you mentioned not to install a short shifter as one of the things, is there anything else?
Cheers!
Edit: For some context I've got a 1999 wrx, not sure if that matters tho 😅
Trying desperately hard not to say goodday.. Damn I failed 😁
Oil surge.. Unless you can fit a proper baffled sump (not the baffle plate) or dry sump then it is always a tightrope.. Slightly overfill the oil and check after each track session. If you can have a oil pressure gauge ideally mounted on window pillar so you can see it in your eye line around long corners.. I guess most tracks there are clockwise too. Lift if you start seeing it drop mid long corner.
Fuel surge.. Solution is swirl pot and external pump. Aside from that keeping it above 1/2 tank solves it but the car is slower 😢
I hope you stick around.. I will be doing some track focused vids soon as my background of time attack taught me loads on that. (expensive lessons 😱)
@@racedynamix thanks for the swift reply! I'm sure the more stick around the more my questions will be answered, so I've got nothing to worry about 👍
Im about to sell my Hatch sti to get a 17 plate Sti. My Hatch its obviously 2.5 chocolate engine but forged so my question is.... If i get a standard 17 plate sti, would it be best to forge it or Would it be fine if i get a front mount and intake and map. My experience is colder the pistons the better
Hi Nick. The 17 plate is still a weak engine but if it were mine I would wait til it needs forging before doing it. The std engine should be able to cope with whatever the std turbo can produce. If you plan on changing the pistons at some point though it won't come as too much of a shock to you 👍
@racedynamix I don't want much out of it really, I've come to the age where I just want a clean car with a bit of power. 330-350 is plenty for road use. I do love a front mount tho so I'll probably will go for one, plus a intake then ill give you shout for a map. I just get nervous with the 2.5L. So expensive to forge it 😫
@@Nicks_Sti it can be but essentially it is just pistons that are needed so not that expensive in the grand scheme of things.
the cobb Accessport any good?
Hi. It's not something we get here in the UK tbh. It has some really good features but like all US software now it is limited by the green speed initiative to what can be disabled etc
Any way to reduce crank case pressure? My EJ20 blob is running 350hp and having to top up oil every couple hundred miles, getting a little bit of smoke at WOT, been through and done PCV system and just done both valve covers to stop the little leaks so 100% sure no more leaks
Why do you think it is crank case pressure? Have you ruled out compression issues or turbo?
@@racedynamix just fit a new vf43 as TD04 gave up the goose, so figured its blow by or oil getting pushed through to intake
That map looks familiar 😂 always get your car checked out. “It’s standard mate” famous last words
Absolutely 🤣👍
Loving the videos but its only taken me 2 years to find this channel. can you please fire your youtube guy, you need to get all the keyowrds relating to subaru in your description box as it doesnt come up when searching.. cheers. keep up the great videos !!
Thanks.. I've only uploaded since the start of 2023 😁 and I'm the yoyrub8guy 😂😂
That intro though! 😂
Lol.. Glad you liked it 😁👍🙏
@1:25 C'est la vie!
Hi where are you based ? Thanks
Based in Bournemouth UK but travel to various dynos in the UK.. Mainly across the south 👍
Haha why does #10 Resonate so much…..😂
😬🤔
Number 10 Iam low on money so I will take you advice and not take it out 😂
🤣 Just take it easy 😁😉
My 2020 Outback has never consumed oil I check it regularly. I also change the oil as stated in the manual and only use what is recommended by the manufacturer. I think it’s when people use thicker viscosity oils is when they consume oil.
Hi.. Thanks for the comment.. The manual is really useful and often ignored 👍 I'm not sure I agree re thicker oil, I find 15/50 to be the best for my race engines personally and that certain makes seemed to vanish.. Notably castrol Magnatec. But it is a largely superstitious subject and one that it is really hard to test in real world conditions so as to make recommendations to a wider audience... I will try though 👍
I know you have owned them long enough because of #10 because where is the lie? damn!!!
Lol yeah.. Too long 🤣
You can’t always get help from the dealer .... I sent my car to the local dealer to diagnose the misfire issue. They had it for 3-4 days an said ... we don’t know . We can’t find the problem... turns out it was bad compression/ cylinder leak down . I feel they should have found that
Yes they should. You can tell that just by the sound of the engine when turning it over. It kind of skips a beat on turnover.
@@racedynamix I know this is kind of imposeble to answer but the car had a vf34 turbo swap and replaced pistons and rods in 2018 in ones garage . Ben driving un tuned since. (Not by me) Watt do you think is damaged cylinder wall. Pistons or pistons rings. And depending the damage will it be worth working on ( believe it a 205 open deck) I have got another 205 “for now” a part of me wanted to rebuild upgrade and put the original in at some point . Even it is kind of silly if it is open deck..
@@tdro98 my guess would be ringlands had gone and the chunks of the ringland have scored the bores. Use a rebuild as a learning experience and it is worthwhile but it won't ever be a strong engine regardless of what trick bits you put in it tbh
I agree. I personally don't trust stealership anymore.
what next i’m supposed to pay taxes? seriously is this not common sense.
:)
hahha i love that! i know subaruas know what is in our wallet hahaha.
Wondering if you can open source tune! thanks.
@@JDMAUTO lol. Yes to open source 👍👍
@@racedynamix awesome! How can I reach you?
duncan@racedynamix.com
😂 subaru and the sods law
Ha the Subaru knows how much money you have 😂😂😂
It's true though for definite 🤣👍
@@racedynamix that's it I'm opening another savings account just to scare the EJ gremlins away 😂😂
#10 🤣🤣🤣
You know it 😂😂