You're obviously more of an expert than me, but from what I know, all solid advice! I definitely agree that looking to change cams should not be one of your first mods at all. That's for big money big power builds. I will say I think changing the fuel pump every 4 years is probably a bit excessive, though changing the pump strainer is certainly a good idea, but I suppose it's cheap insurance. Before that, I would recommend getting a fuel pressure sensor and adding the ability to lock that, although I don't know if there is a simple solution with the stock ECU other than an external logger. Data is always good to have!
You're right.. Data is always good to have. A wideband gauge is a good idea as is an oil pressure gauge but generally speaking people fit gauges and have no idea on what they should read and how to use them/or lead to paranoia🤣. A decent set of gauges are quite a chunk of change though 👍 Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 🙏
@@racedynamix Hahaha very true. Then again, these same people think they know what cams to buy... If we can at least get them to buy a gauge first that is admittedly useless to them, that's progress? Half kidding. I did mean "log that" of course. Cheers!
@@802Garage unfortunately the std ecu doesn't use a wideband and the stock lambda sensor is only a narrowband. The ecu will only flag up a lean scenario when on cruise or idle when over 25% fuel has to be added by the closed loop mechanism to keep it running right. It won't ever for running lean on boost. So anything up to 25% leaner and bad things can really happen. Its far simpler to suggest that people driving a modified subaru do a new fuel pump at cambelt time. For the sake of £70 it's an easy prevention imo. Sure it might not need it but if it can be made simple and regular it has to help prevent a engine failure... Or at least that's my hope 😁 Datalogging is another ball park altogether.. I've done a good few videos on that and self tuning. I love data 😁
One thing I learned was that grounding (earthing) can NOT be understated. Especially with phenolic spacers under the intake manifold. Earth everything; strip the frame to the bare metal and make sure all the wires are correctly earthed. You may not "feel" a difference but I assure you that an earthed Subi is a happy Subi!
One easy upgrade for anyone with a BH Outback with an EJ25 is an alternator from an EZ30. 35 extra amps of output for about the same cost as the original 85 amp stock alternator. It's great for folks who are running extra lights, larger amplifier, or powering a portable refrigerator.
@@nicholasobrien836 Been running a NAPA EZ30 alternator since Christmas with no issues. It also cranks out the necessary 14.8 volts at the stud that you'll need to keep an AGM battery happy.
Always appreciate your wisdom my man. It is really true every subaru has it's own personality they're different that's why we love cars. Specially these cars. Also can't wait for Blitzen come back.
The std radiator is absolutely fine.. I ran the std rad on my racecar at 850bhp. Oil cooler depends on use of vehicle.. If you are talking track preparation then yes an oil cooler is a very good mod to do but for the average owner it isn't one of the first steps imo. Intake, yes it is worthwhile above 350 bhp to change to a induction kit.. I will be going into this in some detail shortly in a video testing what difference it makes but the std intake is surprisingly good and I consider these other steps more important to start with. You can get a wrx from 220 to 290 without doing intake or even to 330/340 or an STi to 340. Thanks for your comment.. It is the beauty of subarus that they are easy to modify and there are lots of things that can be done, but imo these are the big hitters 👍
The timing on this vid is perfect. Getting ready to start ordering parts for a 02 wrx hybrid build, was aiming for 340 whp and having a lot of trouble on picking a turbo but thinking I will go vf48 but looks like a lot of price variation.
Cool.. The vf48 is a great option imo. Variations on price will be because of the almost inevitable cracks in the exhaust housing. Unless they stop the penny closing fully, they wouldn't necessarily worry me too much. Good luck with the build 😎
Great video Duncan and great info for many WRX owners and many STi owners too Many of us who had WRX and tried to make it STi or be as fast as STi learned that hard way, still remember when you mapped our WRX Wagon on 2.1 stroker and MDX321T 490bhp and then NOS On WRX brakes are must in my opinion, at least good pads is good upgrade but upgrading to Brembo or K-Sport is worth it with master brake cylinder, we had K-Sport brakes with WRX master brake cylinder and these brakes not been as good as right now we have Brembo with Carbon Lorraine RC5 pads Upgrading pump to at least 255LPH I'm guessing it will require at least map tweak? Liked and subscribed Duncan, hope you are well and okay
Summarizing what I think you said: 1.Brakes 2.ARB 3.Fluids and maintenance 4.Fuel Pump 5.Exhaust 6.Intercooler 7.Tune (exact numbering gets a little muddled, from here) 8.Turbo 9.Injectors 10.Plugs/Coils I can honestly say this is one of the first videos on this topic I can agree with. Most people recommend an oil catch (i.e. AOS) rather than tackling the root of the issue, which is often poor maintenance and a tired engine. Depending on where you're starting from (STI vs. WRX, etc.) I would put the requirement for a better intercooler AFTER the turbo upgrade, combine plugs/coils w/ maintenance in general, and absolutely install injectors before the turbo/tune, but great video, all around. Coil-overs aren't inherently bad - Ohlins, Reiger, etc. make some that are great! But if you're spending less than $500 per corner, you're likely buying junk. Used WRX/STIs fit into that nice little category of being inexpensive enough to purchase but difficult to maintain/modify without ruining the car. Starting with an STI, I'd recommend a similar order: 1. Maintenance (fluids, coils, plugs) 2. ARB (maybe other suspension bits - replace worn bushings, add a GOOD set of struts) 3. Exhaust (and off-the-shelf tune) (many people will be perfectly happy at this point) 4. Brake pads (replace worn lines, but OE lines are fine - they have a non-expanding braided layer covered by rubber...) 5. BIGGER maintenance (fuel pump, ring condition) 6. Injectors + Turbo + Tune (all at once) Regarding step 5 - a tuner should know on the first pull if your fuel pump is dying. If you see any lean conditions at high RPM after adding an open exhaust - get to the fuel pump ASAP. Upgrading the intercooler is only needed if you're not able to maintain a safe IAT - if you aren't pushing a compressor outside of it's efficiency plateau, you don't need a bigger I/C.
Yeah pretty much.. Except that number 10 was more about issues rather than just plugs / coils. Most issues tend to be made a million times worse by ignoring issues so was wanting to put across that it is important to resolve things as they happen. Glad you approved of the video 😁😁🙏
You should never be running an OTS tune. At the very least a E-tune if you can't afford or have access to a good tuner. These engines have a lot of blow by by nature so a AoS is one of the best mods you can do. Catch cans will work but you'll want an AoS over a Catch can.
@@MrSaturn7085 a off the shelf tune is a cookie cutter tune. Not all FA20's, FA24's or EJ25's run exactly the same. You can watch Bader or Smeedia and they will say the exact same thing. As someone who's spent well over $40k modding a FA20 WRX and a EJ and going by what a tuner recommended I'm not just spitting out garbage.
I haven't worked on my car personally but this video gives me more confidence than any other. Thank you! We forget about the important things rather than the shiny big parts
Hi. The 302 code can be various things.. 1. Obvious first but plugs or coil on cylinder 2 2. Coilpack wiring connector on 2 not seated or terminals loose 3. Neutral position switch.. Yes really. Ecu picks a random misfire code if it has overload of on off signals from nps. Unlikely though as code jumps around between cylinders normally. 4. Corrosion within the multiblock connector near battery.. Continuity test the coil wiring either side of that connector whilst wiggling wires. This is not uncommon. Hth 😎
@racedynamix the RCM fuel pump looks identical to the Kemso fuel pump at a fraction of the price, and the Fuji pump is the same body with alternate colour plastic. Are these all the same do you know?
@@racedynamix haha they do look like that. I have a Kemso item in our Forester S-Turbo, it's been in around 4 years and I suspect it as the wideband is confirming slightly leaner mix. From your suggestion it could be time to change. It's on a TD04, about 260 bhp for reference.
I just got a 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i (Bone Stock from California + No Rust).. What are the first things I should do? Mileage from what I hear is a little over 114k
Hi .. yeah the easiest way to do this is swap on a TD04 from the impreza wrx and that will help it get there. Will obviusly need a custom remap to make it all safe. :)
Two questions one what is 6000 miles in kilometers ... Question two show you should buy injectors for an 02 wrx what would you consider too big ... And Bonus question 2.5 is the normal fuel setup ok or should one make a parael setup
1. Miles x 1.6 = Km 2. Std injectors are big enough for the std turbo. Unless you are changing turbo then no need to increase injectors.. There is no power benefit. 3. Std rails are fine and work well and are safe. Running parallel rails is not needed til close to 500bhp and unless you are doing it the right (but expensive way) there are prone to leaks and fire risk.
@@racedynamix Thanks always so confused when it comes to miles we have a standard. have uk standar and us ... My head had imported of less .... And have a vf 34 and a better fuel pump And standard injectors. The plan is when I fix everything that came after the engine change I'll get a safe tune On that ...But haven't had the energy to work on it lately .. so either overhaul the old one or get a better block and start with fun shit As a long-term project in the future
Great video! I’ve just put a 3 inch (3 inch down to 2.5 inch) kakimoto cat-back exhaust on my JDM twinscroll STI. I still have the original 2.5 inch downpipe. Would you recommend buying a sports cat? I’m wondering if a 2.5 inch sports cat would make a difference?
Hi. I have to say that I haven't tuned an NA XV so have no forts hand experience of them but normally exhaust mods are generally a great way of releasing th potential power
I've seen OEM and aftermarket pumps gradually fail over time. The danger in this is that the gradual decrease in pump volume might not be noticeable until it's too late and engine damage is caused by the lean condition mentioned in the video.
@@LarsonPetty Ah ok, I guess i'll replace mine then. Didn't really want to as aside form apparently working fine, I hear lots of people complain that Walbro & similar pumps are very noisy. and an annoying pump whine is last thing I want in an everyday car!
@@asdreww To be honest, I don't think that the Walbro is that much louder during normal operation. It IS louder upon startup, for the first 2-3 seconds, and then I never notice them in a single pump configuration. The Radium dual pump hanger and others are a bit louder, as they should be. There are fuel pump brands that boast less noise, but I don't think the miniscule difference in noise vs the Walbro justifies the price difference that I've seen.
I have a "stage 2" 2019 sti. Pushing about 315/340 tq. How can i get rid of the fluttering sound that comes from the boost control solenoid/wastegate? Tuned at 21.1 psi. Stock turbo. IAG 550 long block, about 4k miles.
hi. that noise tends to be emphasised by an induction kit, so assuming you don't want to revert to std air box if you vent the solenoid to atmosphere rather than through the induction kit it should get rid of it. Hth 👍
@@zacharyedmond8223 no..that's not what I mean. I mean removing the vent pipe from the boost solenoid from where it goes into the inlet pipe and venting to atmosphere. Blank off where it would have gone into inlet pipe 👍
Hi thank you for making this video. I was listening to your point where you said change the fuel pump every 4 years, but I remember my mechanic said if I am not getting any code about running lean I should not change the fuel pump. Same with the spark plugs, if there's no error code don't change the spark plugs. So now I'm confused. Should I change the fuel pump or spark plugs as preventive maintenance even without the car throwing error codes?
The thing to understand is that the ecu won't throw a code to say it is running lean on boost. It will do at idle or cruise but only if it s 25% leaner than it should be. So taking that example your fuel pump could be weakened and running 20% leaner.. The ecu will think everything is okay and not throw a code.. But 20% leaner on boost is a whole world of pain for the engine. Your mechanic probably wouldn't know what or how the ecu works and is expecting it to bring up a code, unfortunately his faith is misguided - I would change the pump before it needs it as preventative. Spark plugs.. The ecu will only tell you there is a problem when it is misfiring and you can feel there is a problem already and only then when the number of misfires within a period is larger than a set number in the table of the ecu rom. Other than that it isn't able to tell you they need changing. I would go by the mfr time periods on plugs. Your mechanic may think he is doing you a favour and saving you money but I disagree I am afraid. Sorry
I have a 2005 subaru impreza sportswagon that I'm trying to replace the ECU. I got a new ECU, and the car still isn't starting. The ECU was taken out of a working car, so the ECU is working, and its a non-immobilizer ECU so it doesn't need re-programming. I did a full diagnostic scan on the car and it says one of the injectors are not firing, but the computer is saying none of the sensors are damaged and nothing is wrong with any of the wire connections....the box just won't start the car. Can anyone give me some advice?
OK.. Firstly why are you changing the ecu? What is the ecu from that you say is non immobiliser? Is the fuel pump priming? If you take out a coil pack and put a spare plug in it does it spark? Are the spark plugs wet with fuel?
Im making around 300hp and 430nm at 4500rpm comfortably. Running stock 550cc injectors, and a stock ej257 bottom end in a g3 wrx. I built the thing for everyday use.
Everyday car aswell as a track hillclimb car. Im still learning the tuning side of it and watching your video does help. Any information is a bonus no matter what it is. I built it to be reliable and also make power.
Agree! 1st job on all my rides (cars & motorcycles) are the brakes, wheels & tyres, intake & exhaust. Onli then I will start on the engine & internal & then tuning it. *Had 2002 Legacy GT，2006 WRX (JDM) & this yr I just got a 2008 Exiga GT. EJ20 yes, i love them!
I am fixing up a 2011 Outback 3.6R, we do a lot of offroading and I wanna make sure I am getting the most out of my car. I want as much power as it can give us while staying reliable and be as capable of tackling as many obstacles as possible. This is not my first custom setup, but it is my first Subaru and it is quite different from what I am used to. You seem very knowledgeable about these cars. I will be addressing brakes already since I noticed already that it doesn't exactly stop on a dime. I fully expect to be upgrading drive train and suspension. What would you recommend to get some significant improvements for my purposes?
Hi. Thanks for the question ... I have to admit that offroading isnt an area that I have explored with the Subaru here so would say that others like Flatiron Tuning in the US might be a better source of info for you there. Sounds like you are going to have some fun though, they are great cars - enjoy :)
What would you recommend for getting the car to go faster from a stop? Mine feels like it's unsafely slow. I don't want fast but i want to be able to keep up with normal traffic.
Hi. It all depends on how thick they are, thicker bar would resist roll more but going too thick and you get a lot of sideways bobbling while driving on normal roads. 22mm is what I would recommend for road use, 24mm for mix of road and track. Hth..obviously just my opinion/preferences here 👍
I have in the early days of them but the reliability and engine strength isn't there with a habit of snapping crankshafts. I haven't tuned since I am afraid. The one I did worked well but didn't want to speed up an enforced engine rebuild for others. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear
@@racedynamix Yea the early diesels had the notorius crankshaft failure problem. Since Euro 6 it was fixed and mine has the updated insides as well (because it had already failed :) The newer diesels are actually pretty reliable, but no idea how much power can they take otherwise.
Can the flow rate decrease of the fuel pump be monitored with an inline fuel pressure gauge perhaps between the filter (on a classic/GC8) and the intake manifold solid rails? Or do fuel pumps tend to quickly drop in flow after age?
Best place to monitor is on the fuel pressure regulator.. A sensor there and. A gauge set to show relative fuel pressure should alert you to wear/weakening over time.
Nice upgrade path, definitely a great way to modify your Subaru. This is basically a way to make your WRX closer to an STi without the transmission swap.
Thanks. In the same way a tailor made suit would fit you better than on off the shelf suit 👍 The fueling will be right, the ignition timing right for your engine and fuel. and the boost control will be right 👍
I have an 05 STi with an EJ207 and I replaced the air filter with a K&N (rest completly stock intake) and after that the car ran much richer and the timing was 3 degrees lower at high engine load. The result was a slower car (GPRS measurement). The reason was that the MAF calibration did not fit anymore at higher loads and what I don't understand is why do I need to reduce the g/s to volts in the MAF calibration instead of increasing it? So basically, to get the same AFR I need to reduce for example at 4.5 volts the g/s value for about 5%. The MAF curve an in all looks good but it does not make sense to me. Does that mean that with less air it can produce the same power = more efficient? Btw, if I put the stock filter in again, it's all fine again and also if I do a test drive without any filter, I have to lower the g/s to volts even more. The reason I change the filter was, because I though that at 420+hp the stock intake system with the filter is restricting.
Very confusing one.. Do you have datalog of similar runs with the std and k&n that you could send.. It would make it easier to get my head around what is happening there? 👍
This is my first Subaru (2016 wrx), I would luv to cruise at 330-350 hp. Would it be ok to put the suggested sti upgrades you laid out on my car instead of the wrx upgrades you suggested? Is it too much?
Well the wrx has a different engine so the mods are gonna be different in a lot of ways Some parts are interchangeable but you gotta check first to confirm they fit For the FA20 platform, the wrx turbo doesn't hold a ton of power unlike the sti
On a v3 sti, what bhp would i need to upgrade to a better air intake and filter and go to a front mount intercooler? Ive heard standard should handle 400bhp?
Hi. The std inlet and air filter set up on the V3 sti will very seriously struggle to get to 400 in my experience because to keep that you would need to keep a tmic. That airbox is good but will be costing significant power from 340bhp onwards..the same with fmic. To get to 400 will need fmic, a good intake system, large injectors, fuel pump, aftermarket ecu, ported std headers and a free flowing exhaust. Obviously turbo will need to be at least capable of 400bhp too. Hth
Sounds a lot like common sense to me, the first things I do when I buy a new used vehicle is the entire braking system, upgrading to braided lines, suspension, and making sure all the bushings and such are in good condition, reset all maintenance schedules even if previous owner has documentation of resent maintenance because I run specific fluids and plugs and such
True.. But the spray pattern of those modified injectors isn't great so tend to have issue at idle or start up. They are mostly fine on boost but can cause an uneven burn 👍
@@racedynamix I agree with you, if you decap other injectors. That is why for decapping only light blue and pink. Those work great on idle, start up and pattern is exactly the same as aftermarket high flow injectors. Closed loop fuel consumtion is the same. Basicaly no problems at all. Hardest thing is to adjust correct injector latency in ecu to work everything properly.
Hi and thanks. The wrx box isn't strong tbh. Normal advisable limits are 350bhp but I have customers running over 500bhp of them.. Obviously they are aware that the box could break at any moment. Hope that helps.
Hi. Love an SF... Did you watch the SF5 vid I put up a couple of weeks ago? There will be more content of SF, SG and SH soon. What are you wanting to know?
Hi! Thanks for the reply! Smeedia said the same, thats unfortunate! Dont need anything crazy but a bit more power would feel amazing. Will be on the look out, maybe a future video :)@@racedynamix
Another enjoyable video. Excellent suggestions question for you I have a legacy, GTB tune, s edition I’m going to be upgrading my brake pads. What would you recommend Totally Street card?
One last thing about the brakes sorry do I need to change the disks or the standard disks on the car be okay they’re in perfect condition what should I upgrade them or do you think?
Thanks for the Video. I had the Walbro 255l/h installed in my Impreza GC8 Gt, but it was for me too loud and the car sounds not so happy at the idle. Many say that the Walbro 255 pumps too much fuel for the Gc8 to handle in the idle without a tune. My Question is: Is the Deatschwerks DW100 enough for the Gc8 turbo maybe also enough for the GC8 sti?
Tbh this question is very difficult because I have seen them break at std power level and also have some customers running 500bhp on std wrx engines. The question is can you afford for it to break.. If you understand the risks and are OK with it then tune away but if you want to minimise the risks of bad stuff happening then I would suggest keeping below 350bhp. Obviously maintenance and other elements are a big factor 👍
hello i have legacy 2005 2.0r 165 hp n/a what mods can take for little more hp ?like 1 stage we dont have other engines in my country like turbo legacy or 3.0 so...thx alot
Hi. Thanks for the question. I don't get to tune many NA cars be cause the turbo versions are readily available here but if you concentrate on the making it easier for the air to enter the engine (ie intake/air filter) and leave the engine (ie exhaust) then that should do well for you. Other parts like mild cams can help but adding these adds a lot to the costs and results are variable...so I would avoid unless you have methods to measure and set up precisely. If your ecu isn't tune able then adjustable fule pressure regulator can help fine tune fueling too 👍
Duncan - funny you should mention the fuel pump. I've got my hands on a new RCM pump and intend to fit it but I'm not sure if it needs any additional hardware (uprated regulator for instance). Any advice? Vehicle is a 2003 Forester SG JDM CrossSports. I may be booking a remap with you in the next few months so will likely email you soon.
Hi. It shouldn't need anything additional.. The 255 fuel pump would be my recommendation, the 340 fuel pumps from whichever supplier tend to not last as long. The jdm cross sport is an interesting car.. The auto cannot be accessed by open source so unfortunately has to be done via Ecutek and is more expensive to remap as a reault.. The manual version can be though 👍 Speak soon 👍
@@racedynamix Good to hear. I'm not adverse to fitting a Walbro if it's a more reliable option. Thankfully mine is a manual. It's currently on it's original JDM tune so I don't really drive it much or particularly hard, although I do only feed it 99 RON. I'll email you this week.
@@racedynamix I ended up fitting the RCM pump on the weekend. No issues. I'll see how it goes and maybe go Walbro next time. I have emailed you with some questions about a remap - hopefully it reached you.
If it is a stock wrx and planning to keep it stock and untuned, would well timed maintenence be good enough or would there be anything in particular you would recommend doing for reliability? trying to learn as much as I can.Cheers, great video
HI Lewis. If you are planning to keep it untuned then good maintenance will be great for it.. It would be worth following the steps in my 'First 5 things to do video' 👍
Great video. I can tick everything except maintenance and injectors. Not got a misfire but do have a check engine light I been working on sorting. Code 21 and 24 permanently briefly 31 also popped up. Changed tps and 31 not returned. Old one would only adjust between 4v and 5v. I Still need to remember to multi meter the iacv again but that was all good before Christmas when last checked. Wondering if my coolant sensor the culprit as think when I used a spare used one it sorted my problems last time I had these codes. Just shame they not carried on shelfs by motor part companies but thank god for import car parts. Other than that I just need to chuck my yellow injectors in and hopefully I can make 350hp
I think I covered these codes in a recent live stream.. Perhaps it was your car. Getting those 3 codes (coolant / iacv / tps) together could indicate a wiring issue with earths or 5v supply for that element of the loom. Hth 😎
UK sir. We had e85 here a few years ago but there were parties that weirdly pushed for it to be withdrawn (mainly due to misunderstanding I think) it's a great fuel for tuning.. Hopefully one day we will get it back 🤞
Hello, thanks for another good video, I’m located in Canada and have a 2011 sti hatch, the car has a flex fuel tune and runs mostly on e60 and is tuned for anything from 91octane(225whp/260wtq) to e70(310whp/340wtq) mods are: blouch20g-xtr , Cobb 1050cc inj. Aem340 lph fuel pump, Cobb flex fuel kit, Cobb DP and exhaust, still running stock headers and a stock top mount intercooler, car runs great since the build 5years and 65K km ago with a mild build of forged internals after my stock motor went kaput with a failed rod bearing,i was told the dyno I was tuned on reads around 195whp for a stock Sti and I asked my tuner for a conservative tune, I couldn’t be more happy with the way it runs as it’s got a nice wide power curve with full boost coming on around 3400rpm and pulls all the way to 7000rpm. My question is weather changing out my fuel pump as you advise to a new one would require a retune? And also how about upgrading my top mount intercooler to a bigger aftermarket one? Would that require a new tune? Or would you just advise me to leave things alone and keep running as is? Thanks again for all the great content👍
Seems like you have a great spec there. Oh to have e60 or e85 at the pump here, they withdrew it a few years ago much to my annoyance as it is epic to tune with 😍 A new (same spec) fuel pump shouldn't need retuning unless the old pump was dying when mapped. At worst though it will just be running a bit richer and much better than running lean. I would pop a wideband on it and measure before / after. A larger intercooler doesn't have to be returned for unless you are changing the induction set up which would possibly be the case if you fitted a fmic. It would benefit from a retune though regardless as to release the extra power it would need tuning. Hth and thanks for the questions 🙏
Ok, I will fit a new fuel pump than, might as well as it isn’t too expensive and a good piece of mind type maintenance. So if I’m understanding you correctly? Provided everything stays the same than I can fit a bigger TMIC on my car and it won’t hurt a thing without a retune, however if I want to actually get any gains from fitting the new intercooler than that would need changes to my tune/map? Thank you for your quick reply, and just wanted to say you are 100% correct about the good power level for the sti, and around350whp/tq on these cars is great, good daily drivability, reliability and overall lots of fun, these cars should have come like this from factory, i much appreciate your time and can’t wait for more videos!! Cheers.
@@wojtekk.702 yes.. You understood perfectly 👌 350 is a really nice level.. It's taken me a while to realise that 🤣 Did you watch my " I ruined it" video?
11. Fit an oil temp guage and don't drive it hard until your oil is over 70°. The amount of people i see abusing these cars when cold is honestly scary and is what i think causes a lot of the blown engines.
I'd love to but unfortunately I see so few of them that come in looking for more power. Not since I started this channel in late 2022 anyway.. As soon as I have a suitable customers car I will 👍👍
@@racedynamix Id happily bring mine in, but im an Aussie!! Not all of us are seeking big power gains, I just want to know whats worth doing and whats going to make things worse or no diff so I dont waste $$ like you said. Even if that means just the basics and getting the tune smoothed out-thats all most of us NA crew are going to want to do anyways. A baby Non turbo WRX for those of us that need to behave for a few years while our licenses recover....but still want to drive something fun and a lil modded. Things like do us NA crew need to touch the brakes as well ect?? Cheers mate. Appreciate your vids and your time.
I put a Brembo kit (calipers, pads, rotors, ss lines F/R) on my '21 WRX within a year of purchase, right after the Whiteline sway bar kit. It's the first thing I look for on other people's builds, and I've become pretty goddam judge-y about it.
@@racedynamix Sorry Duncan, just noticed I hadn’t replied to you, replied to myself instead lol. My car been sorn for quite a few years but regularly started up and moved about a bit. Long story but hoping to drive it soon. Car standard apart from prodrive exhaust including prodrive cat. New brakes ready to go on. New tyres, Walbro 255 ready to go on. My 1st Scooby and car could do with full health check, previous owner didn’t forward rest of history, got divorced shortly afterwards, bad health too hence long story 🤣 Yes I maybe volunteering depending on what you meant Duncan 👍👊
Hi Jason.. Hope you're well. Unfortunately I don't get many NA cars come into me looking for more power. They tend to be the turbo models aside from the odd BRZ and 3.0R legacy. Turbo versions are far more plentiful here. When a suitable car is booked in I can sort a video out 👍
Yeah.. I have seen the std pump, walbro 255 and 340 pumps weaken over time.. Why risk a tuned engine for a £70 part? Either that or fit a wideband to keep track of the fueling over time. Obviously feel free to ignore advice 😂
Hi. I covered cats in the exhaust 👍 Tgvs I covered in my 5 free mods video.. There are a little more involved for small benefit to make it into the top 10 for me 👍
Love the videos, was able to buy my first WRX last month. 2004 with 145k on the clock, currently sitting around 338bhp. Quick one, I done compression test today just to check, 175, 145, 143, 145. Not sure why cyl1 is high, I also redone test on it to make sure
Nice work.. but yeah the 175 seems high. Problem not an issue, but maybe check cam timing or do a leak down test to see whether there is the same discrepancy. Well done on your purchase - great cars :)
Thanks Duncan. Will be staying tuned to your great videos, pity I'm in Northern Ireland or I'd be visiting for a retune lol. I need to sort out my map as we only have 97ron fuel over here and car was bought from Birmingham
I need to replace the transmission mount on my 05 U.S. Impreza sport wagon 2.5 rs (again). I know polyurethane bushings helped the suspension on my 65 Mustang, is it a good idea to replace my Subaru's trans. mount with an aftermarket mount that has polyurethane bushings? Or do I need to avoid changing from oem to aftermarket in this case?
It's always good to see someone taking care of the myths around these cars, great video, excellent advice!
That's very kind of you to say.. Thank you 🙏
11. Check your hoses boost/pvc/coolant. OH! 12 proper radiator caps
Yeah indeed 🙏 I think I covered the radiator cap issue in the preparation for remap video last year 👍👍
@@racedynamix I couldn’t find it, as I also want to hear your thoughts about upgrading your radiator cap.
Oil pickup and sump too, an engine starved of oil is a knocking engine 😅
You're obviously more of an expert than me, but from what I know, all solid advice! I definitely agree that looking to change cams should not be one of your first mods at all. That's for big money big power builds. I will say I think changing the fuel pump every 4 years is probably a bit excessive, though changing the pump strainer is certainly a good idea, but I suppose it's cheap insurance. Before that, I would recommend getting a fuel pressure sensor and adding the ability to lock that, although I don't know if there is a simple solution with the stock ECU other than an external logger. Data is always good to have!
You're right.. Data is always good to have. A wideband gauge is a good idea as is an oil pressure gauge but generally speaking people fit gauges and have no idea on what they should read and how to use them/or lead to paranoia🤣. A decent set of gauges are quite a chunk of change though 👍
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 🙏
@@racedynamix Hahaha very true. Then again, these same people think they know what cams to buy... If we can at least get them to buy a gauge first that is admittedly useless to them, that's progress? Half kidding. I did mean "log that" of course. Cheers!
@@802Garage unfortunately the std ecu doesn't use a wideband and the stock lambda sensor is only a narrowband. The ecu will only flag up a lean scenario when on cruise or idle when over 25% fuel has to be added by the closed loop mechanism to keep it running right. It won't ever for running lean on boost. So anything up to 25% leaner and bad things can really happen.
Its far simpler to suggest that people driving a modified subaru do a new fuel pump at cambelt time. For the sake of £70 it's an easy prevention imo. Sure it might not need it but if it can be made simple and regular it has to help prevent a engine failure... Or at least that's my hope 😁
Datalogging is another ball park altogether.. I've done a good few videos on that and self tuning. I love data 😁
@@racedynamix Yep you are pretty limited with a factory ECU as you say. Data is love. Protections in an aftermarket ECU are really nice too.
One thing I learned was that grounding (earthing) can NOT be understated. Especially with phenolic spacers under the intake manifold. Earth everything; strip the frame to the bare metal and make sure all the wires are correctly earthed. You may not "feel" a difference but I assure you that an earthed Subi is a happy Subi!
One easy upgrade for anyone with a BH Outback with an EJ25 is an alternator from an EZ30. 35 extra amps of output for about the same cost as the original 85 amp stock alternator. It's great for folks who are running extra lights, larger amplifier, or powering a portable refrigerator.
@@SamwiseOutdoors Great tip there. Really useful 🙏
Doing this next week!
@@nicholasobrien836 Been running a NAPA EZ30 alternator since Christmas with no issues. It also cranks out the necessary 14.8 volts at the stud that you'll need to keep an AGM battery happy.
Always appreciate your wisdom my man. It is really true every subaru has it's own personality they're different that's why we love cars. Specially these cars. Also can't wait for Blitzen come back.
Me neither.. Collecting parts at the moment 😁🙏
How about intake , oil cooling,radiator ? I think this should come before getting into the turbo/fuel injecting mods...
The std radiator is absolutely fine.. I ran the std rad on my racecar at 850bhp.
Oil cooler depends on use of vehicle.. If you are talking track preparation then yes an oil cooler is a very good mod to do but for the average owner it isn't one of the first steps imo.
Intake, yes it is worthwhile above 350 bhp to change to a induction kit.. I will be going into this in some detail shortly in a video testing what difference it makes but the std intake is surprisingly good and I consider these other steps more important to start with. You can get a wrx from 220 to 290 without doing intake or even to 330/340 or an STi to 340.
Thanks for your comment.. It is the beauty of subarus that they are easy to modify and there are lots of things that can be done, but imo these are the big hitters 👍
The timing on this vid is perfect. Getting ready to start ordering parts for a 02 wrx hybrid build, was aiming for 340 whp and having a lot of trouble on picking a turbo but thinking I will go vf48 but looks like a lot of price variation.
Cool.. The vf48 is a great option imo. Variations on price will be because of the almost inevitable cracks in the exhaust housing. Unless they stop the penny closing fully, they wouldn't necessarily worry me too much.
Good luck with the build 😎
what do you mean a wrx hybrid build?
2.5 short block with 2.0 heads
@@_Ethann_ ah, got it. I thought you meant like adding a plug in hybrid power system to your WRX, was like damn, that's an ambitious project
Great video Duncan and great info for many WRX owners and many STi owners too
Many of us who had WRX and tried to make it STi or be as fast as STi learned that hard way, still remember when you mapped our WRX Wagon on 2.1 stroker and MDX321T 490bhp and then NOS
On WRX brakes are must in my opinion, at least good pads is good upgrade but upgrading to Brembo or K-Sport is worth it with master brake cylinder, we had K-Sport brakes with WRX master brake cylinder and these brakes not been as good as right now we have Brembo with Carbon Lorraine RC5 pads
Upgrading pump to at least 255LPH I'm guessing it will require at least map tweak?
Liked and subscribed Duncan, hope you are well and okay
Thanks Jura.. All good here 😎😎
Summarizing what I think you said:
1.Brakes
2.ARB
3.Fluids and maintenance
4.Fuel Pump
5.Exhaust
6.Intercooler
7.Tune
(exact numbering gets a little muddled, from here)
8.Turbo
9.Injectors
10.Plugs/Coils
I can honestly say this is one of the first videos on this topic I can agree with. Most people recommend an oil catch (i.e. AOS) rather than tackling the root of the issue, which is often poor maintenance and a tired engine.
Depending on where you're starting from (STI vs. WRX, etc.) I would put the requirement for a better intercooler AFTER the turbo upgrade, combine plugs/coils w/ maintenance in general, and absolutely install injectors before the turbo/tune, but great video, all around.
Coil-overs aren't inherently bad - Ohlins, Reiger, etc. make some that are great! But if you're spending less than $500 per corner, you're likely buying junk. Used WRX/STIs fit into that nice little category of being inexpensive enough to purchase but difficult to maintain/modify without ruining the car.
Starting with an STI, I'd recommend a similar order:
1. Maintenance (fluids, coils, plugs)
2. ARB (maybe other suspension bits - replace worn bushings, add a GOOD set of struts)
3. Exhaust (and off-the-shelf tune)
(many people will be perfectly happy at this point)
4. Brake pads (replace worn lines, but OE lines are fine - they have a non-expanding braided layer covered by rubber...)
5. BIGGER maintenance (fuel pump, ring condition)
6. Injectors + Turbo + Tune (all at once)
Regarding step 5 - a tuner should know on the first pull if your fuel pump is dying. If you see any lean conditions at high RPM after adding an open exhaust - get to the fuel pump ASAP.
Upgrading the intercooler is only needed if you're not able to maintain a safe IAT - if you aren't pushing a compressor outside of it's efficiency plateau, you don't need a bigger I/C.
Yeah pretty much.. Except that number 10 was more about issues rather than just plugs / coils. Most issues tend to be made a million times worse by ignoring issues so was wanting to put across that it is important to resolve things as they happen.
Glad you approved of the video 😁😁🙏
You should never be running an OTS tune. At the very least a E-tune if you can't afford or have access to a good tuner. These engines have a lot of blow by by nature so a AoS is one of the best mods you can do. Catch cans will work but you'll want an AoS over a Catch can.
@@FunTimeWithSouls false
@@MrSaturn7085 definitely not false. Any good tuner will say the same thing.
@@MrSaturn7085 a off the shelf tune is a cookie cutter tune. Not all FA20's, FA24's or EJ25's run exactly the same. You can watch Bader or Smeedia and they will say the exact same thing. As someone who's spent well over $40k modding a FA20 WRX and a EJ and going by what a tuner recommended I'm not just spitting out garbage.
I haven't worked on my car personally but this video gives me more confidence than any other. Thank you! We forget about the important things rather than the shiny big parts
Thank you .. I am glad you are finding my videos confidence building 👌😎
Great video, never disappointed with your videos
Thank you so much Victor 🙏🙏
Im 71 retired . Im good with the brembo setup on my 2006 sti with spt add onscurrently troubleshooting a po302.
Hi.
The 302 code can be various things..
1. Obvious first but plugs or coil on cylinder 2
2. Coilpack wiring connector on 2 not seated or terminals loose
3. Neutral position switch.. Yes really. Ecu picks a random misfire code if it has overload of on off signals from nps. Unlikely though as code jumps around between cylinders normally.
4. Corrosion within the multiblock connector near battery.. Continuity test the coil wiring either side of that connector whilst wiggling wires. This is not uncommon.
Hth 😎
Wow quick reply much appreciated. Will try all
Just got my 05 forester up and running and i am looking at stuff i want to do to it. Thank you for giving me a priority list. Much love❤
My pleasure ..glad you found it useful 😊
Could you recommend a turbo set up that would be responsive for daily driving, my current set up is the standard ej20x 05 legacy
Hi.. Is yours the auto with the vf38 ?
@@racedynamix It is an auto, a JDM tuned by STI, it hasn't been tampered with so I think the turbo is original
What's the name of rim brand in 2:38
@@yoriichi6724 They are Team Dynamics I think 👍
@racedynamix the RCM fuel pump looks identical to the Kemso fuel pump at a fraction of the price, and the Fuji pump is the same body with alternate colour plastic. Are these all the same do you know?
@@ABF16V rumour has it that they are all made in the same factory 😁
@@racedynamix haha they do look like that. I have a Kemso item in our Forester S-Turbo, it's been in around 4 years and I suspect it as the wideband is confirming slightly leaner mix. From your suggestion it could be time to change. It's on a TD04, about 260 bhp for reference.
Great common sense, simplified myth buster. Thank you Duncan. Any specific suggestions for the newer BRZ for the weekend tracker.
Thanks mate. The FA24 engine?
I just got a 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i (Bone Stock from California + No Rust).. What are the first things I should do? Mileage from what I hear is a little over 114k
Hi..sorry for the delay in replying. Are you talking about maintenance things ?
For a Forester 2.0 XT 2003..177CP....with TF035 turbo stock.....to reach WRX power...230.. 240CP....need to change turbo? What is the easy way? Thx
Hi .. yeah the easiest way to do this is swap on a TD04 from the impreza wrx and that will help it get there. Will obviusly need a custom remap to make it all safe. :)
@@racedynamix thanks a lot
@@mihaibaran2596 no problem 😁
Great Video Duncan😎🙌 wise words mate.. Loving how my Black Blob STI is running after your map last summer
That's great.. 😎😎
Two questions one what is 6000 miles in kilometers ... Question two show you should buy injectors for an 02 wrx what would you consider too big ... And Bonus question 2.5 is the normal fuel setup ok or should one make a parael setup
1. Miles x 1.6 = Km
2. Std injectors are big enough for the std turbo. Unless you are changing turbo then no need to increase injectors.. There is no power benefit.
3. Std rails are fine and work well and are safe. Running parallel rails is not needed til close to 500bhp and unless you are doing it the right (but expensive way) there are prone to leaks and fire risk.
Thanks for the questions 🙏
@@racedynamix Thanks always so confused when it comes to miles we have a standard. have uk standar and us ... My head had imported of less .... And have a vf 34 and a better fuel pump And standard injectors. The plan is when I fix everything that came after the engine change I'll get a safe tune On that ...But haven't had the energy to work on it lately .. so either overhaul the old one or get a better block and start with fun shit As a long-term project in the future
@@tdro98 the vf34 will need sti pink 550cc injectors 👍
@@racedynamix just so you know you are awesome
Great video! I’ve just put a 3 inch (3 inch down to 2.5 inch) kakimoto cat-back exhaust on my JDM twinscroll STI. I still have the original 2.5 inch downpipe. Would you recommend buying a sports cat? I’m wondering if a 2.5 inch sports cat would make a difference?
It will still make great power with the 2.5 downpipe but will make better torque with the sports cat on my experience 😎
what mods do you suggest for a 2019 subaru XV and maintain Naturally aspirated. Thanks in advance
Hi. I have to say that I haven't tuned an NA XV so have no forts hand experience of them but normally exhaust mods are generally a great way of releasing th potential power
Do you see the fuel pumps fail a lot then when remapping? I'm still running the original one, still seems quiet and working fine.
Yeah I see them starting to tire after a few years. For the sake of £70 or so a new one when the cambelt is done makes great sense IMHO 👍
I've seen OEM and aftermarket pumps gradually fail over time. The danger in this is that the gradual decrease in pump volume might not be noticeable until it's too late and engine damage is caused by the lean condition mentioned in the video.
@@LarsonPetty Ah ok, I guess i'll replace mine then. Didn't really want to as aside form apparently working fine, I hear lots of people complain that Walbro & similar pumps are very noisy. and an annoying pump whine is last thing I want in an everyday car!
@@asdreww To be honest, I don't think that the Walbro is that much louder during normal operation. It IS louder upon startup, for the first 2-3 seconds, and then I never notice them in a single pump configuration. The Radium dual pump hanger and others are a bit louder, as they should be. There are fuel pump brands that boast less noise, but I don't think the miniscule difference in noise vs the Walbro justifies the price difference that I've seen.
I have a "stage 2" 2019 sti. Pushing about 315/340 tq. How can i get rid of the fluttering sound that comes from the boost control solenoid/wastegate? Tuned at 21.1 psi. Stock turbo. IAG 550 long block, about 4k miles.
hi. that noise tends to be emphasised by an induction kit, so assuming you don't want to revert to std air box if you vent the solenoid to atmosphere rather than through the induction kit it should get rid of it. Hth 👍
@@racedynamix so you mean a blow off valve would solve the issue? ive read sti's should only use recirculating
@@zacharyedmond8223 no..that's not what I mean. I mean removing the vent pipe from the boost solenoid from where it goes into the inlet pipe and venting to atmosphere. Blank off where it would have gone into inlet pipe 👍
@racedynamix is there anything wrong with doing that? Why wouldn't it just come stock like that then? Thanks !
@@zacharyedmond8223 have you got an induction kit ?
Hi thank you for making this video. I was listening to your point where you said change the fuel pump every 4 years, but I remember my mechanic said if I am not getting any code about running lean I should not change the fuel pump. Same with the spark plugs, if there's no error code don't change the spark plugs. So now I'm confused. Should I change the fuel pump or spark plugs as preventive maintenance even without the car throwing error codes?
The thing to understand is that the ecu won't throw a code to say it is running lean on boost. It will do at idle or cruise but only if it s 25% leaner than it should be. So taking that example your fuel pump could be weakened and running 20% leaner.. The ecu will think everything is okay and not throw a code.. But 20% leaner on boost is a whole world of pain for the engine. Your mechanic probably wouldn't know what or how the ecu works and is expecting it to bring up a code, unfortunately his faith is misguided - I would change the pump before it needs it as preventative.
Spark plugs.. The ecu will only tell you there is a problem when it is misfiring and you can feel there is a problem already and only then when the number of misfires within a period is larger than a set number in the table of the ecu rom. Other than that it isn't able to tell you they need changing. I would go by the mfr time periods on plugs.
Your mechanic may think he is doing you a favour and saving you money but I disagree I am afraid. Sorry
@@racedynamix your point makes sense to me now. Cheers.
I have a 2005 subaru impreza sportswagon that I'm trying to replace the ECU. I got a new ECU, and the car still isn't starting. The ECU was taken out of a working car, so the ECU is working, and its a non-immobilizer ECU so it doesn't need re-programming. I did a full diagnostic scan on the car and it says one of the injectors are not firing, but the computer is saying none of the sensors are damaged and nothing is wrong with any of the wire connections....the box just won't start the car. Can anyone give me some advice?
OK.. Firstly why are you changing the ecu?
What is the ecu from that you say is non immobiliser?
Is the fuel pump priming?
If you take out a coil pack and put a spare plug in it does it spark?
Are the spark plugs wet with fuel?
Im making around 300hp and 430nm at 4500rpm comfortably. Running stock 550cc injectors, and a stock ej257 bottom end in a g3 wrx. I built the thing for everyday use.
Nice.. Bet that's a lovely everyday driver 😍
Everyday car aswell as a track hillclimb car. Im still learning the tuning side of it and watching your video does help. Any information is a bonus no matter what it is. I built it to be reliable and also make power.
@@blowngemini2031 really glad the videos are helping you 😎👍
Agree! 1st job on all my rides (cars & motorcycles) are the brakes, wheels & tyres, intake & exhaust. Onli then I will start on the engine & internal & then tuning it.
*Had 2002 Legacy GT，2006 WRX (JDM) & this yr I just got a 2008 Exiga GT. EJ20 yes, i love them!
Yeah something special about the EJ20 and jdm in particular 😎
I am fixing up a 2011 Outback 3.6R, we do a lot of offroading and I wanna make sure I am getting the most out of my car. I want as much power as it can give us while staying reliable and be as capable of tackling as many obstacles as possible. This is not my first custom setup, but it is my first Subaru and it is quite different from what I am used to. You seem very knowledgeable about these cars. I will be addressing brakes already since I noticed already that it doesn't exactly stop on a dime. I fully expect to be upgrading drive train and suspension. What would you recommend to get some significant improvements for my purposes?
Hi. Thanks for the question ... I have to admit that offroading isnt an area that I have explored with the Subaru here so would say that others like Flatiron Tuning in the US might be a better source of info for you there. Sounds like you are going to have some fun though, they are great cars - enjoy :)
What would you recommend for getting the car to go faster from a stop? Mine feels like it's unsafely slow. I don't want fast but i want to be able to keep up with normal traffic.
Torque is what you need..and weight reduction (the car not you 😂) That will get you going quicker. What year / model do you have?
@@racedynamix it's a 05 wrx
@@emansuela_real early boost will give it torque. So removing restrictions from exhaust will help that 👍
How do you find cusco antiroll bars? I'm keen to tighten up the handling on my BL5 tuned by sti legacy
Hi. It all depends on how thick they are, thicker bar would resist roll more but going too thick and you get a lot of sideways bobbling while driving on normal roads. 22mm is what I would recommend for road use, 24mm for mix of road and track. Hth..obviously just my opinion/preferences here 👍
Interested to know if you have tuned Diesel EE20 engines? What would be the first steps tuning one safely?
I have in the early days of them but the reliability and engine strength isn't there with a habit of snapping crankshafts. I haven't tuned since I am afraid. The one I did worked well but didn't want to speed up an enforced engine rebuild for others. Sorry if that's not what you wanted to hear
@@racedynamix Yea the early diesels had the notorius crankshaft failure problem. Since Euro 6 it was fixed and mine has the updated insides as well (because it had already failed :)
The newer diesels are actually pretty reliable, but no idea how much power can they take otherwise.
@@rustyspace900 that's good news. I may not say no next time to tuning one 😁
Daily car. Keep everything stock is the best thing to do.
That's the plan!
Can the flow rate decrease of the fuel pump be monitored with an inline fuel pressure gauge perhaps between the filter (on a classic/GC8) and the intake manifold solid rails? Or do fuel pumps tend to quickly drop in flow after age?
Best place to monitor is on the fuel pressure regulator.. A sensor there and. A gauge set to show relative fuel pressure should alert you to wear/weakening over time.
Nice upgrade path, definitely a great way to modify your Subaru. This is basically a way to make your WRX closer to an STi without the transmission swap.
Indeed. Thanks for your comment :)
Another informative video, always learning something! I got a daft question this time, upgrading to a walbro need a remap afterwards?
Thank you.. It shouldn't do if the old pump was working OK but the worst it could be is a little richer.. Would be worth checking 👍
I like this video. I would like your opinion about stock tune vs a pro tune, why are pro tunes safer than stock tune? Thanks for the video.
Thanks.
In the same way a tailor made suit would fit you better than on off the shelf suit 👍
The fueling will be right, the ignition timing right for your engine and fuel. and the boost control will be right 👍
I have an 05 STi with an EJ207 and I replaced the air filter with a K&N (rest completly stock intake) and after that the car ran much richer and the timing was 3 degrees lower at high engine load. The result was a slower car (GPRS measurement). The reason was that the MAF calibration did not fit anymore at higher loads and what I don't understand is why do I need to reduce the g/s to volts in the MAF calibration instead of increasing it? So basically, to get the same AFR I need to reduce for example at 4.5 volts the g/s value for about 5%. The MAF curve an in all looks good but it does not make sense to me. Does that mean that with less air it can produce the same power = more efficient? Btw, if I put the stock filter in again, it's all fine again and also if I do a test drive without any filter, I have to lower the g/s to volts even more. The reason I change the filter was, because I though that at 420+hp the stock intake system with the filter is restricting.
Very confusing one.. Do you have datalog of similar runs with the std and k&n that you could send.. It would make it easier to get my head around what is happening there? 👍
@@racedynamix Yes, I have 4th gear pull logs. I will send it to you soon to your youtube email. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
@@SubiCarLous I'm curious now 😁😂
@@racedynamix email is on the way :)
This is my first Subaru (2016 wrx), I would luv to cruise at 330-350 hp. Would it be ok to put the suggested sti upgrades you laid out on my car instead of the wrx upgrades you suggested? Is it too much?
Well the wrx has a different engine so the mods are gonna be different in a lot of ways
Some parts are interchangeable but you gotta check first to confirm they fit
For the FA20 platform, the wrx turbo doesn't hold a ton of power unlike the sti
Is it FA or EJ ?
I recognise the blue Subaru 😁 great video! Can’t wait to have it back and bring it to you to be mapped!
😁😁
On a v3 sti, what bhp would i need to upgrade to a better air intake and filter and go to a front mount intercooler? Ive heard standard should handle 400bhp?
Hi. The std inlet and air filter set up on the V3 sti will very seriously struggle to get to 400 in my experience because to keep that you would need to keep a tmic. That airbox is good but will be costing significant power from 340bhp onwards..the same with fmic.
To get to 400 will need fmic, a good intake system, large injectors, fuel pump, aftermarket ecu, ported std headers and a free flowing exhaust. Obviously turbo will need to be at least capable of 400bhp too.
Hth
@@racedynamix thanks 👍
@@ilyasakhtar8244 no problem 👍👍
Sounds a lot like common sense to me, the first things I do when I buy a new used vehicle is the entire braking system, upgrading to braided lines, suspension, and making sure all the bushings and such are in good condition, reset all maintenance schedules even if previous owner has documentation of resent maintenance because I run specific fluids and plugs and such
A perfect plan IMHO 👌
You can decap wrx light blue or sti pink injectors, get clean and measure them, and you will get to 850-900cc for few $$$.
True.. But the spray pattern of those modified injectors isn't great so tend to have issue at idle or start up. They are mostly fine on boost but can cause an uneven burn 👍
@@racedynamix I agree with you, if you decap other injectors. That is why for decapping only light blue and pink. Those work great on idle, start up and pattern is exactly the same as aftermarket high flow injectors. Closed loop fuel consumtion is the same. Basicaly no problems at all. Hardest thing is to adjust correct injector latency in ecu to work everything properly.
After doing a few mods like de cat , turbo upgrade fuel pump ect is is safe to drive to the dyno without boosting turbo obviously?
Yep - absolutely fine but off boost to be safe.
Hi , i would like to know what power can the 05 wrx gearbox handle , i know its the weak point on the wrx ,thx in advance
Hi and thanks. The wrx box isn't strong tbh. Normal advisable limits are 350bhp but I have customers running over 500bhp of them.. Obviously they are aware that the box could break at any moment. Hope that helps.
Thanks ,I'm looking at around the 300hp ,would the stock clutch handle the extra torque thx
I'm in the States - any tips on resources for 1st-2nd gen Foresters?
Hi. Love an SF... Did you watch the SF5 vid I put up a couple of weeks ago?
There will be more content of SF, SG and SH soon.
What are you wanting to know?
Any info on how to make an EJ20 NA Subaru a bit faster? :) Love my GDA Subaru wagon but would love to have a bit more power!
Hi - I keep getting asked about NA stuff and truth be told I would love to but see so few of them that it has been impossible to sort a video yet
Hi! Thanks for the reply! Smeedia said the same, thats unfortunate! Dont need anything crazy but a bit more power would feel amazing. Will be on the look out, maybe a future video :)@@racedynamix
@@spirospandis975 as soon as I get a customer in that wants it.. A video will be made 😎
Cant wait! :)@@racedynamix
Another enjoyable video. Excellent suggestions question for you I have a legacy, GTB tune, s edition I’m going to be upgrading my brake pads. What would you recommend Totally Street card?
I will be putting DBA Extreme pads in mine..
@@racedynamix fantastic I’ll have a look at these will be perfect for street use. Don’t want anything noisy?
One last thing about the brakes sorry do I need to change the disks or the standard disks on the car be okay they’re in perfect condition what should I upgrade them or do you think?
Thanks for the Video.
I had the Walbro 255l/h installed in my Impreza GC8 Gt, but it was for me too loud and the car sounds not so happy at the idle. Many say that the Walbro 255 pumps too much fuel for the Gc8 to handle in the idle without a tune. My Question is: Is the Deatschwerks DW100 enough for the Gc8 turbo maybe also enough for the GC8 sti?
The dw100 is a 165 l/h pump so I would say not enough. There are other perhaps quieter 255 equivalent pumps 👍
Do you do remote tuning courses as I’m in Australia running a link ecu
Yes mate.. I can do remote tuning 👍
What power would you class as safe/ish on a wrx I understand many factors play a part in how well it’s maintained etc thanks
Tbh this question is very difficult because I have seen them break at std power level and also have some customers running 500bhp on std wrx engines. The question is can you afford for it to break.. If you understand the risks and are OK with it then tune away but if you want to minimise the risks of bad stuff happening then I would suggest keeping below 350bhp. Obviously maintenance and other elements are a big factor 👍
hello i have legacy 2005 2.0r 165 hp n/a what mods can take for little more hp ?like 1 stage we dont have other engines in my country like turbo legacy or 3.0 so...thx alot
Hi. Thanks for the question. I don't get to tune many NA cars be cause the turbo versions are readily available here but if you concentrate on the making it easier for the air to enter the engine (ie intake/air filter) and leave the engine (ie exhaust) then that should do well for you.
Other parts like mild cams can help but adding these adds a lot to the costs and results are variable...so I would avoid unless you have methods to measure and set up precisely.
If your ecu isn't tune able then adjustable fule pressure regulator can help fine tune fueling too 👍
I have pedders and they are great. I also have ssb lines so they are solid now.
Nice 😍
Duncan - funny you should mention the fuel pump. I've got my hands on a new RCM pump and intend to fit it but I'm not sure if it needs any additional hardware (uprated regulator for instance). Any advice? Vehicle is a 2003 Forester SG JDM CrossSports.
I may be booking a remap with you in the next few months so will likely email you soon.
Hi. It shouldn't need anything additional.. The 255 fuel pump would be my recommendation, the 340 fuel pumps from whichever supplier tend to not last as long.
The jdm cross sport is an interesting car.. The auto cannot be accessed by open source so unfortunately has to be done via Ecutek and is more expensive to remap as a reault.. The manual version can be though 👍
Speak soon 👍
@@racedynamix Good to hear. I'm not adverse to fitting a Walbro if it's a more reliable option.
Thankfully mine is a manual. It's currently on it's original JDM tune so I don't really drive it much or particularly hard, although I do only feed it 99 RON.
I'll email you this week.
@@timmccreery81 👍
@@racedynamix I ended up fitting the RCM pump on the weekend. No issues. I'll see how it goes and maybe go Walbro next time.
I have emailed you with some questions about a remap - hopefully it reached you.
If it is a stock wrx and planning to keep it stock and untuned, would well timed maintenence be good enough or would there be anything in particular you would recommend doing for reliability? trying to learn as much as I can.Cheers, great video
HI Lewis. If you are planning to keep it untuned then good maintenance will be great for it.. It would be worth following the steps in my 'First 5 things to do video' 👍
Get it tuned stock. Transforms the car after Duncan tuned it, my WRX is stock bar the brakes and back box
will have a look cheers
Doesn't really apply to my 2020 Forester Sport (other than the well said maintenance advice), but interesting nonetheless.
Thank you. 🙏
Great video. I can tick everything except maintenance and injectors. Not got a misfire but do have a check engine light I been working on sorting. Code 21 and 24 permanently briefly 31 also popped up. Changed tps and 31 not returned. Old one would only adjust between 4v and 5v. I Still need to remember to multi meter the iacv again but that was all good before Christmas when last checked. Wondering if my coolant sensor the culprit as think when I used a spare used one it sorted my problems last time I had these codes. Just shame they not carried on shelfs by motor part companies but thank god for import car parts. Other than that I just need to chuck my yellow injectors in and hopefully I can make 350hp
I think I covered these codes in a recent live stream.. Perhaps it was your car. Getting those 3 codes (coolant / iacv / tps) together could indicate a wiring issue with earths or 5v supply for that element of the loom. Hth 😎
@@racedynamix yes you did. Thanks for the advice again
Where are you from? In America were lucky to have corn gass (e85)
UK sir. We had e85 here a few years ago but there were parties that weirdly pushed for it to be withdrawn (mainly due to misunderstanding I think) it's a great fuel for tuning.. Hopefully one day we will get it back 🤞
Will my impreza sti hatch be okay to drive off boost with a sports cat until
You tune it? (Booked in with you in a week or so)
👌👌
Hello, thanks for another good video, I’m located in Canada and have a 2011 sti hatch, the car has a flex fuel tune and runs mostly on e60 and is tuned for anything from 91octane(225whp/260wtq) to e70(310whp/340wtq) mods are: blouch20g-xtr , Cobb 1050cc inj. Aem340 lph fuel pump, Cobb flex fuel kit, Cobb DP and exhaust, still running stock headers and a stock top mount intercooler, car runs great since the build 5years and 65K km ago with a mild build of forged internals after my stock motor went kaput with a failed rod bearing,i was told the dyno I was tuned on reads around 195whp for a stock Sti and I asked my tuner for a conservative tune, I couldn’t be more happy with the way it runs as it’s got a nice wide power curve with full boost coming on around 3400rpm and pulls all the way to 7000rpm. My question is weather changing out my fuel pump as you advise to a new one would require a retune?
And also how about upgrading my top mount intercooler to a bigger aftermarket one? Would that require a new tune?
Or would you just advise me to leave things alone and keep running as is?
Thanks again for all the great content👍
Forgot to add that the tune on e70 is set to 21psi max boost
Seems like you have a great spec there. Oh to have e60 or e85 at the pump here, they withdrew it a few years ago much to my annoyance as it is epic to tune with 😍
A new (same spec) fuel pump shouldn't need retuning unless the old pump was dying when mapped. At worst though it will just be running a bit richer and much better than running lean. I would pop a wideband on it and measure before / after.
A larger intercooler doesn't have to be returned for unless you are changing the induction set up which would possibly be the case if you fitted a fmic. It would benefit from a retune though regardless as to release the extra power it would need tuning.
Hth and thanks for the questions 🙏
Ok, I will fit a new fuel pump than, might as well as it isn’t too expensive and a good piece of mind type maintenance.
So if I’m understanding you correctly? Provided everything stays the same than I can fit a bigger TMIC on my car and it won’t hurt a thing without a retune, however if I want to actually get any gains from fitting the new intercooler than that would need changes to my tune/map?
Thank you for your quick reply, and just wanted to say you are 100% correct about the good power level for the sti, and around350whp/tq on these cars is great, good daily drivability, reliability and overall lots of fun, these cars should have come like this from factory, i much appreciate your time and can’t wait for more videos!! Cheers.
@@wojtekk.702 yes.. You understood perfectly 👌 350 is a really nice level.. It's taken me a while to realise that 🤣 Did you watch my " I ruined it" video?
Not yet lol.
11. Fit an oil temp guage and don't drive it hard until your oil is over 70°.
The amount of people i see abusing these cars when cold is honestly scary and is what i think causes a lot of the blown engines.
Absolutely agree 👏
I agree with everything you said, and the priority order to making the modifications.
Thanks Robert .. those mods make for a great car 😎
Every time a British man says 'rubbish' an angel gets its wings
wtf ? 😂
Everyone does the Turbo Imprezas. Any chance of a vid like this for us RS impreza N/A boys please??
I'd love to but unfortunately I see so few of them that come in looking for more power. Not since I started this channel in late 2022 anyway.. As soon as I have a suitable customers car I will 👍👍
@@racedynamix Id happily bring mine in, but im an Aussie!! Not all of us are seeking big power gains, I just want to know whats worth doing and whats going to make things worse or no diff so I dont waste $$ like you said. Even if that means just the basics and getting the tune smoothed out-thats all most of us NA crew are going to want to do anyways. A baby Non turbo WRX for those of us that need to behave for a few years while our licenses recover....but still want to drive something fun and a lil modded. Things like do us NA crew need to touch the brakes as well ect?? Cheers mate. Appreciate your vids and your time.
@@benzles8492understand.. as soon as I can I will 👍👍😎
@@racedynamix Thanks mate. Looking forward to it already. 😊😊
All good advice. Reminds me of all the things I did to my Subarus over the years.
Thanks Buddy 👍
I put a Brembo kit (calipers, pads, rotors, ss lines F/R) on my '21 WRX within a year of purchase, right after the Whiteline sway bar kit. It's the first thing I look for on other people's builds, and I've become pretty goddam judge-y about it.
🤣🤣
Duncan is the Subaru god 🔥
lol 😂 🙏
Love your channel! Would be great to get some advice for my 06 blobeye sti type uk ej207 Dccd, Widetrack.
Are you volunteering? 😋 Sadly mine was ruined long before I started this channel 😭
@@racedynamix Sorry Duncan, just noticed I hadn’t replied to you, replied to myself instead lol. My car been sorn for quite a few years but regularly started up and moved about a bit. Long story but hoping to drive it soon. Car standard apart from prodrive exhaust including prodrive cat. New brakes ready to go on. New tyres, Walbro 255 ready to go on. My 1st Scooby and car could do with full health check, previous owner didn’t forward rest of history, got divorced shortly afterwards, bad health too hence long story 🤣 Yes I maybe volunteering depending on what you meant Duncan 👍👊
@@johnlangley9764 where are you based?
Some good information put across in a way that makes sense. 👍
Thanks Mat.. Appreciate it mate 🙏
Thanks for this vid. Great great info.
my pleasure ..thanks for watching 🙏
Standard brakes have not right being on a WRX. Fade is terrible. 1st mod I did was big brake kit and braided hoses.
Good first mod 👌😎
I recognise a couple of those pics🤣
😁😁
Your wheels are filthy mate 😂
That video was better, safer, more fun to watch
😁 Thank you 🙏
Thank you for the Tipps, but please stop the background music next time. Its hard to ignore and listen carefully. Greetings from vienna
@@christianpolz8271 Thank you .. Will do 👍👍
No mention of stickers, bonkers camber and name-brand engine dress-up trim? What kind of hard-parking Subaru channel is this? :p
Class 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video 💯
Thank you !
Thank you for watching and the kind words...🙏
What abour NA cars?
Hi Jason.. Hope you're well. Unfortunately I don't get many NA cars come into me looking for more power. They tend to be the turbo models aside from the odd BRZ and 3.0R legacy. Turbo versions are far more plentiful here. When a suitable car is booked in I can sort a video out 👍
Muchas gracias for your time and expertise.
My pleasure
GREAT ADVICE AND INFORMATION BUT FFS CAN U TURN OFF THE BACKGROUND SHHTTTT MUSIC
thanks for that feedback.. I will resolve 👍
Change the fuel pump every 4 years??? Really?
A fuel filter I could see but good lord a pump?
Yeah.. I have seen the std pump, walbro 255 and 340 pumps weaken over time.. Why risk a tuned engine for a £70 part? Either that or fit a wideband to keep track of the fueling over time. Obviously feel free to ignore advice 😂
@@racedynamix I won’t ignore your advice. Happy to learn something new and will consider this for all builds moving forward.
Ooooooof. Got me wondering if I’d ever said anything mental in any of my videos. Fingers crossed. 😂
😂😂
Finally a TH-cam channel that doesn’t spin shit ,anybody can turn boost up to get 7-800 hp out of they Subaru ,but it will only last a short time
Thank you.. I've been around too long for the short term fix of power.. Reliability is what makes them fun when combined with power 😁
You make pushing 300hp sound easy 😭
It is though 😁.. What subaru do you have?
@@racedynamix none yet! but i’m planning on buying a bugeye here soon. Will definitely revisit this channel when I do haha
Best. Advice. Ever.
@@PLMSdev 🙏🙏
Bang on info there.
Thank you 🙏👍
Good video i like it 😊
Thank you so much. 🙏🙏
Thanks 🙏
You're welcome 🙏
Forgot to include TGV deletes and cat deletes
Hi. I covered cats in the exhaust 👍
Tgvs I covered in my 5 free mods video.. There are a little more involved for small benefit to make it into the top 10 for me 👍
Banger
Thanks.. Glad you enjoyed it 😁
Love the videos, was able to buy my first WRX last month.
2004 with 145k on the clock, currently sitting around 338bhp.
Quick one, I done compression test today just to check, 175, 145, 143, 145. Not sure why cyl1 is high, I also redone test on it to make sure
Nice work.. but yeah the 175 seems high. Problem not an issue, but maybe check cam timing or do a leak down test to see whether there is the same discrepancy. Well done on your purchase - great cars :)
Thanks Duncan.
Will be staying tuned to your great videos, pity I'm in Northern Ireland or I'd be visiting for a retune lol. I need to sort out my map as we only have 97ron fuel over here and car was bought from Birmingham
@@connorlaverty7956 not a problem.. I map up in Wolverhampton each month which isn't too far ish form ferry.
mutch love
😁
Bloody background noise, pick better, quiter area, pls!
Sorry about that. Thanks for letting me know. Problem having a unit at the airport 🙏
If you're going to respond to a video to put the record straight, then name the video so that TH-cam content creator can respond. Gee Wiz!!
Which video?
@@racedynamix The "video" you make mention of at the first 2 seconds of this video.
@@matto20v I really don't want to advertise that mis information. Sorry.
I need to replace the transmission mount on my 05 U.S. Impreza sport wagon 2.5 rs (again). I know polyurethane bushings helped the suspension on my 65 Mustang, is it a good idea to replace my Subaru's trans. mount with an aftermarket mount that has polyurethane bushings? Or do I need to avoid changing from oem to aftermarket in this case?
Hi - It does provide a more positive gear change so could be beneficial. NVH is more though so there are downsides just so that you know.