Cura Walkthrough Vyper settings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2021
- Just a quick look at my Cura setup for my Anycubic Vyper Printer.
link with my Vyper Cura Profile:
linktr.ee/Zombiej79
My start Gcode for my Vyper
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G0 Z0.2 F1800 ; move nozzle to print position
G92 E0 ; specify current extruder position as zero
G1 Y10 X180 E50 F1200 ; extrude a line in front of the printer
G92 E0 ; specify current extruder position as zero
G0 Z20 F6000 ; move head up
G1 E-6 F2400 ; retract
G04 S2 ; wait 2s
G0 X0 F6000 ; wipe from oozed filament
G1 E-1 F2400 ; undo some of the retraction to avoid oozing
G1 F6000 ; set travel speed to move to start printing point
M117 Printing...
G5
Any questions or suggestions for videos drop a comment below
thanks for watching everybody - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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It helped me a lot because before, the printing errors were very noticeable on my prints, and the printer didn't want to start the print cooling fans. However, I copied these settings, and now everything is working perfectly.
Finally got my viper. This is my first printer. Thanks to you i was able to set up octoprint and utilized your cura setting. I did experiment and tweak the Cura settings some for my Duramic filament. I must say thank you for posting these vids you where a great help.
Bless you ! My prints have significantly improved. I now have the confidence to do bigger prints !
This is so helpful and I cant thank you enough for posting this video. I have had a Vyper for a couple of months now and your settings and walkthroughs have helped me tremendously with print quality. Thank you again!!
Happy to hear that man much appreciated
@@studiozombie3d just got reffered to u by the reddit, got the firmware update and printing an calibration cube right now with your settings hopefully my tolerance goes up it was 0.5 mm + -
Awesome video! New to Cura, and the Vyper, and this really helped me. You should have more views/subs because of the content and information you provide.
Thanks so much for this video. I'm new to 3D printing and after litterally dozons of hours of evaluating printer review, will be ordering my Anycubic Vyper this week!
Nice it's one of the best beginner printers for sure with how easy it is to get it set up and printing
Hi Charles, did you get your Vyper? I am new, and we just got ours. We applied the studio zombie PLA profile and completed a detailed print, (no testing), it came out perfect.
Anyone that has purchased a Anycubic Vyper needs to copy these Cura settings. I did and my prints are high quality with very little clean up.
I printed the fan from the jet engine project and it look so clean. Looks like spun aluminum. Adhesion is spot on never have to clean the bed except for a quick wipe of alcohol.
Best informative tip ever. By the way I’ve only been printing for a week and if it hadn’t been for the video I probably would have given up.
Now I print with these instruction and have a better understanding for slicers and how to tweak the fine tunes.
Thanks for that comment super happy the video helped you out. It can be alot to take in for a beginner just trying to make things a bit smoother for people.
Thanks again for watching and if you want to see anything In future videos let me know
Your settings have done wonders for my Vyper print quality. I found 95% of what you’ve shown work best for me. I didn’t enable jerk setting because I kept getting layer shift (bad staircase shifts), so I let the firmware determine best corner speeds. Appreciate the extension tips also as I’m learning 3D as a newbie. I finally obtained a perfect 20mmx20mmx20mm calibration cube with your settings overall.
That's awesome glad to hear that anything else you need let me know
I think the jerk settings on the profile is set at 13 think stock is 5 you can try 10 or lower see if that helps any
This video deserve a bunch of likes. The profile setting is super good!!
Thanks I'm happy it's working well for you.
Perfect! After a few weeks of research I just purchased my first 3D printer...the vyper. I have not printed yet. I searched "importing PLA profile for viper into cura", and came across this video. It was so much more! I followed your link to get your profile, and saw "firmware" updates there too. I checked quickly, and sure enough, I was in need of a firmware update. So I accomplished that. Then you video talked about CURA add-ins, so I added the same ones your video has. Then I finally imported your v2 profile for PLA. And I am following all your recommendations to get it completely set up. In the end, I will print my first "TEST"... I am excited to let you know how it goes. I never saw CURA before today. I have never printed before. Thanks again.
That's awesome to hear I'm glad I was able to help you out with the videos. I'll be adding more videos soon and if there's anything you need let me know. Thanks for watching and joining the channel 👍
Forgot to mention the bugfix and 2209 firmware are custom ones with linear advance enabled. Been quite a few people running it and seems solid. Let me know how thins print for you
@@studiozombie3d OH, I'm not sure what you mean by bugfix... is there another firmware update I need to apply? And I have know idea what 2209 firmware "with linear advance enabled" is. When will I need linear advance? I will have to read up on that too! There is a lot to this. But I'm a sponge!
@@ericbarker3850 my bugfix firmware and 2209 firmware both have linear advance enabled as well as junction deviation. They are better versions of acceleration and jerk. Linear advance also helps reduce retraction and cleans up corners so they don't bulge. The 2209 firmware only difference is the stepper drivers are running 2209 standalone mode for keeping the motors cooler. You can adjust the voltage on the 2209 firmware but needs to be done on the mainboard. Will be posting a video on how to do that asap.
This has been really helpful thank you. I had never used Cura before and have very little experience with 3D prints. I am set up and running, tinkering with the settings to try an learn more about it along the way. My initial aim has been to minimise support density as much as possible and it has been going great with the Custom Support Cylinder plugin, so far the Vyper has been an enjoyable experience.
Once again thank you for getting me started, really clear and understandable video.
Glad to hear it helped out. There's alot of little things in cura, I'm looking at doing a more in depth video in the future of some of the features and little tweaks
@@studiozombie3d oh cool, I am subbed so will keep an eye open for it. I have a new micro swiss 0.8mm nozzle coming to give that ago too along with... a second Vyper! Given how positive people have been about the Vyper and it so beginner friendly I bet there are loads of people like me looking for info, which there is not too much about due to how new the product is. 😀
@@jinxed13 nice man. I need to get some nozzles for mine. I generally stick to 0.4 but want to try up to 1.0mm to really see how fast the vyper can go. And you can go wrong you have everything you need to go with it. My ender 3 took alot of customization to be at the level of the vyper. My vyper is still full stock
Great information for a new to 3D printing person. I'm using your profile for the Vyper right now and mt print is looking amazing. I've also substituted your start code. Thank you!
Glad to hear that it's working for you. The start code is more of a personal thing I just like to do a purge line before prints. Need anything else let me know
@@studiozombie3d Quick question about your start code (and I've seen it on tons of other start code for the Vyper):
You end it with a G5, which according to Marlin Gcode ref is a bezier cubic spline move. I found reference in the i3 MEGA manual to add the G5 in the gcode to enable power loss recovery of a print. Do you know if this still needed since M413 exists? Or is it a remnant of our choice of i3 mega as the starting machine? BTW thanks a lot for the profile!
@@chzel it's more to enable and work with arc support. There's a plug in called arc welder. It attempts to replace G0/G1 (linear move) GCodes with G2/G3 (arc move) GCodes. This can substantially compress many GCode files and may reduce stuttering caused by sending many tiny movements in rapid succession over a slower serial connection. If can also help with producing a cleaner circle movement and round prints.
So yeah this guy is awesome. I pretty much just followed the video verbatim and my printer is printing absolutely perfect. I mean seriously, i've had this thing for three weeks, countless calibration cubes, 4 or 5 different profiles for cura, i think i've only printed like 2 actual things on it and they came out eh until now. AMAZING PROFILE!!! Def gonna sling you some cash man for doing this. Thankyou so much!!!
Thank you so much man glad the video has helped. And glad the profile is printing well for you. You need anything don't hesitate to message me anytime
LIKED and subscribed! My vyper will arrive tomorrow its my first printer. I been on youtube looking for helpful content for the viper. You provided the best info yet. Unfortunately its a new printer and not much support for it yet. Hopefully you will continue to post more tips and tricks for the vyper! Thank you
That's awesome to hear man glad the videos have been helpful. I'm planning many videos might do a octoprint setup one then maybe a closer look at some of the cura settings. Any suggestions let me know
I plan on loading your setting and bang out some test prints. I plan on using this mostly to print parts. Once i get confident with the printer i planned on setting up octoprint, so im sure people would appreciate that vid. Do you create any of your own models?
@@thatdude610 the cura profile I have uploaded is pretty solid for most thing you just need to calibrate your e steps and flow and your good. Yeah octoprint is super handy have had a couple requests for a vid. Will start working on it and get that done in the next day or two
@@thatdude610 I'd like to make my own but I use pre made most of the time
Great Video!
Can you please go over the slicer settings for the new cura and prusa versions for the anycubic vyper
Thank you ! really helpful.
Glad it helped you out. Just trying to Make things easier for people 👍
Very nice video mate.Keep up and give us more info :)
Thanks appreciate that. Anything you would like covered in a video let me know
Suuuuuper helpful. Thank you!
Fire me a message I have a contact at anycubic who would like to give you a hand
@@studiozombie3d thank you, I subscribed to your instagram and have dialed in all your settings- my first print worked out very well! Had a few too many zits so I tried slowing down the print speed.
Thanks for the explanation and the profiles! What's the difference between v3 and v4 PLA profiles for the vyper?
Thank you for your time doing this. Do you have the settings for 4.12?
hi thank you for a good walk through! when you made this video did they not have vyper in cura? i can see they have vyper now.. you have any experience with that printer default? and i also wonder how you added the extension option? first time printing and first time cura 8-) thx
i mean pluggins. how do you install that?
This is brilliant thank you very much, is there any chance of a similar video for PETG in Cura for the Vyper please, have got some resonable prints but if I add supports the print ime rockets from 4 hours to 5+ days!
What a great channel!!! Awesome explanations!!!
Would you share your TPU settings? I know you're talking about it in this video. but I'm german and its hard to get all information right because of your speed and slang :))
For tpu I use the same profile I just change speed to 45 retraction to 3mm and that's about it for changes I make. If you have any troubke fire me a email. I'm also in the vyper Facebook group as a expert as well
Copy-Pasta'd almost all of this, thank you! One weird thing; The purge line, it homes, then does an angled purge that starts off the bed and then onto it, then homes again before printing. Kind of hard to explain without pictures, but the prints are coming out much better!
Yeah that's how the purge line works I mine too. When I get a chance I'll see if I can clean it up to go to print right after it lifts
Isn't there settings on Kira that I can adjust the E steps instead of downloading a new software for the motherboard to allow me to adjust the steps on pronterface? I really don't want to have to do all of that. I did use pronterface to adjust the extruder though and now I have it right on.
Some of the settings you mention in the video are different from you PLAv3 profile. Is that profile the latest or should I follow the video. Thanks for all of these videos. Excellent job explaining everything for us starting out.
Go with my v3 it's newer and been updated a bit. Mostly just support settings
Hi there great video. I have been struggling to print the collapsable katana print in place. Seems I can not find the perfect settings and layers are always stuck together. Have you tried it on the Vyper can you help out with a suitable cura profile. Thanks.
Chances are the seam is interfering with the print. Have you calibrated your esteps and your flow% those can throw things off a bit if not calibrated. Then you can play with the coasting settings increase the coasting length a little and see if that helps decrease the seam bumps. Linear advance would be the best fix but the vyper is a bit of aess with the 2209 drivers not being wired properly. I'm testing a custom firmware with linear advance enabled.
i used you profile as a baseline, worked great, but when the printer goes above 250 on the z axis the motors malfunction and i have to help them go down, any help?
Trying these settings now in hopes of getting good supports. Im new to the FDM world (exclusively resin up to this point) and these support settings are a completely different animal. I have a print running right now and will update after it is completed!
Yeah its a totally different beast. I started fdm now have a sls and 2 on the way. I don't get why they call them supports on sls should call them hangers lol you need any help feel free to fire me a email
studiozombie3d@gmail.com
@@studiozombie3d I appreciate the offer. I extend the same gratitude. I have 3 Mono X machines that print just about 24/7
@@itsgimmy9682 nice I should have my photon mono 4k and mono x starting next week. I have a crealtiy ld-002h I've had for a bit and I love it. Just got rhe wash and cure plus in last week for the reviews as well. It's a monster lol
@@studiozombie3d well..cant get the supports off. lol could i send you a STL and see what you recommend for settings
@@itsgimmy9682 sure
Hey Zombie. First off, thanks for all of your videos. I've garnered a lot of knowledge watching them. I took a little break from using my Vyper, but I am about to start using it to print again and I was wondering if you have made an updated profile for Cura for the Vyper. It's been a while since I've played with my Cura settings and I got a new computer since the last time that I printed anything. I was going to load the V4 profile, but noticed that it didn't have the linear advance settings in the profile. I did flash your custom firmware on my vyper so I didn't know if I needed to put that setting in on my own or if it's just good to go. Any help would be appreciated.
Your good to go with the v4 profile. You just set the linear with the terminal on pronterface and it's good to go
i love my vyper but i do have question i havent ran across before but i have part that when i put a brim on it not all of it has the brim for some reason some of the model it wont allow any type of bed adhesion like raft or brim do you have any suggestions on correcting it thanks and i love your videos.
Check under adhesion and see if brim only on outside is checked off. You might need to go into setting visibility to show it. It will only print the brim on the outside of the object if it's checked off. When you uncheck it the brim will pront anywhere there's a edge
Do I enter you Start G-code exactly the way you have. Basically cope and paste?
I have the latest version of Cura 4.12.0. For some reason I don't have the plugins that you showed. Is there something I need to do?
I have printed a couple of model buildings, and I must say with your PLA profile (v2), I am rocking. I am using white PLA from overture, and it is WHITE, not off white, but white white. Question 1> I used your v2 profile, but the setup is minor different from this cura video you did. Is the v2 profile a little better than the one in this video? (I also printed at 100mm/s, and it did well, but I think I will stick with 70mm) Question 2> on the second print some of the supports were so solid, I chipped the print a few times getting some of the supports removed. Is there something I can tweak to make the supports a little easier to remove? And finally, on some of these, I really question the need for supports, but cura would NOT uncheck the supports...thoughts? Thank you loads - PS, where do I donate or buy you coffees or whatever? I really owe you for all the help that your channel has given me. My wife loves it! WIN!
Glad to hear it's working out well for you. The v2 profile is just tweaked a little from the previous profile it seems to be getting better quality. Was just a couple tweaks to speeds and minor tweaks. Under support settings you can try to adjust the z distance I think I have it at .12 you can try .16 and that should help a bit with supports. If you keep having issues with cura not letting you uncheck you can try deleting and reloading rhe profile sometimes if you have a few profiles I find cura has random bugs like that. I'll look at adding a donation link to my linketree just happy people are getting good results from the videos and profiles I've been able to provide. Been also getting great feedback on the custom firmware I've posted. Thanks again for the comment appreciate your views and glad the videos have been able to help you out
I've updated my linktree with a link for coffee lol
Don't have a PETG for Cura settings profile by any chance?
I just loaded your PETG profile and it seems very different than others I have tried. The printing temp seems low and the speed seems high.. can you tell me what filament you use? I'm currently struggling with Overture PETG - I'm getting a lot of stringing and warts. Thanks so much for the support you provide the community!
The petg I have printsnreally well at 220 if your having excessive stringing try increasing retraction .5mm at a time and makensure travel speed is 160. Print speed should be 50 or 45
I have the last version of cura, will this work for my vyper too? Also I'm using PLA+
Yep it should be a good starting point
Hey zombie, do you know whats the value for the printhead settings? I want to play around with print sequence in cura
Which values?
Is the start g code already added to your tpu profile. How do I add it if it's not?
Thank you.
Start gcode is under preferences,printers machine settings
The profile just has the print settings the start gcode only changes if you change in machine settings
I downloaded your linktree profile zips and there are several profiles in there. Which do you suggest for the Vyper? I see an extruder profile and and one that does say extruder. Please help. Thanks.
The one you want to use is the Zombiej3D-Vyper.curaprofile
hello , i am very new to 3d printing, let me say that first. i have just purchased a anycubic vyper and wanted to load your printer profile . when i went to the download page i was overwhelmed by what i saw , i have no idea what profile to download the latest one. I am running cura4.1.3 i am on a mac. can you help me out to understand. ? thank you
drive.google.com/file/d/1XuKMIUdd1Fm2SD7m0tQDgxR0Hbn72ipf/view?usp=drivesdk
This is my current vyper profile download don't open and just import the file into cura
Hey I’m really struggling with my vyper I can’t get a decent print out of it which profile for pla would you suggest I see there’s a few I assume v4 is the newest
The v4 is the most recent. Feel free to fire me a message to me at studiozombie3d@gmail.com and I'll give you an hand see if we can get you running
Hi. I tried one of your profiles and saw that more filament is required for a model compared to the default profile. Is it intentional? I used another popular profile and requirement is lower but it didn't print well compared to the default one. So I thought that maybe more filament is required to print better. What is your thoughts about it? Thanks.
It could be I had infill set higher. Or it could be different number of top and bottom layers. Wall count.. couldnbe alot of things
U R amazing...Differences between PLA profiles (V1, V2, V3)?
Just minor changes to some support settings and speeds. Nothing major really
Is there a good profile for printing figures for gaming?
Hard tonsay depends on the models I generally use the one profile for all my prints and adjust speed. For miniatures I'd try 50mms maybe and see how it goes
I've gone through all the settings you suggested but I'm still getting a rather nasty amount of stringing. Any suggestions on what to look at?
I've had a fair amount of marlin based printers but the stringing on the vyper is the worst I've seen :(.
What are your retraction settings and what do you have your combing mode set to? Also when using zhop make sure z hop speed is 10mm and try setting zhop height a bit higher .8mm or 1mm
I have version 4.12.1 and I don’t have most of those settings underneath the tabs am I missing something? I am a beginner so any help would be appreciated.
Click on the 3 horizontal lines next to search settings and click expert or all.
You can also go into preferences and setting visibility to enable the settings you need
The settings on your drive doesn't import well into my version of Ultimaker for some reason? I think it is because I have more options than what I see in your settings... However, I adjusted what I could.
I also noticed that some of the settings on the drive file dont match yours in the video, not sure if that is because you have updated them since...
I am trying to find a good profile for PLA Plus on my Vyper. Super new to 3D printing :P
Is there a error that pops up? If you click in settings to show all settings that should help. I change a couple settings depending what I print options that I change are usualy layer height,infill density and support options most other setting never change for me. I'll upload a updated profile and see if it works for you.
This profile I have is what i use for all my prints basically I print mainly pla myself sometimes tpu and petg but mostly pla and this profile had been working pretty good for me
Main thing you will want to do it calibrate your e steps and your flow %.
@@studiozombie3d Yea I'll look into that. I'm super new to printing so I am not sure how to tell if things need changing. I am printing a decent sized print and will see how it turns out. I am using PLA Plus right now, so the only thing I changed was the temps and set it to 220 as the PLA Plus recommended.
@@DeSibyl if you have Instagram you can message me there and I cam try and help you out. There won't be much you change really. Layer height,infill density and support settings are the main ones. If you notice stringing on your prints you can drop your temp 5 degrees and that can help
Quick question...are you using octopi or SD card for prints? Been having bad prints using octopi. Bad stuttering around corners.
I always use octoit myself. What are your acceleration and jerk settings? Can try resetting your firmware on the printer and see if that helps also of your not using it I'd recommend trying arc welder plug-in on octopi. Let me know if any of that helps
Ya that's the first thing I tried was Arc welder. It helped a little but the print head almost stops when it comes to any corner. I'm going to flash the firmware right now. I hope that fixes it I really like this machine.
I remember at one point mine did that with one print. I reset the firmware with m502 on the terminal and reset my esteps and stopped doing it. Think it's a bug and the data gets gummed up transferring over
I have the latest version 4.12 when I go to quality I can't see how to change the values. All I have are check boxes.
Are you in the preferences and setting visibility? You need to enable the options to show and then they should show up on the right panel with lrint settings.
judging by the comments 100% saying ur settings works perfectly...can this settings work for ender 3 v2 as well?i checked ur channel but didnt find any 😅
You might be able to import and use the profile on the ender 3 v2 it may not let you import it but the settings in it can work with most fdm printers. You can contact me via Facebook or email and can see if we can figure it out
What do u think about simplify 3d? I wanna know if still with cura or get simplify
Simplify 3d is great. I'd suggest trying prusa slicer or super slicer. They are based on slic3r and work awesome
@@studiozombie3d Thx u very much!! I'll try
Hey, can I ask you something. I have never done 3d printing before. I got a Vyper. I followed the instructions in the manual the came. My first few items came out okay but then I started noticing halo like things around like the base. And sometimes it makes nothing but just random strings all over the place. I will auto level it again and take out the filament and put it back in. But then I will print a simple dog and two legs will be shorter or fall off. I never really get a nice, clean item. I got this for the filament. PLA Filament 1.75mm Marble, SUNLU PLA 3D Printer Filament Stone Color, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1kg Spool(2.2lbs), White Marble. I tried your profile as well, but I just got random strings all over the place. Any thoughts on what I might try?
Have you calibrated the esteps and flow? You can try lowering temp a little to help the stringing. First thing I'd do is make sure esteps and flow are calibrated then try the prints again if your still having issues try lowering the temp 5 degrees
@@studiozombie3d Thanks, I will try that. What is esteps? lol So I just tried printing the Owl that comes with it and it worked perfectly. Then I loaded a skelton head stl file into Cura, sliced it, saved it to disk. As soon as it started printing, all it did was make random strings. There is no object.
@@SagansWar you need to calibrate the esteps to get the right amount of filament to flow. Need to measure 100mm from the tube going into the extruder then extrude 100mm and measure the mark
Then you need to figure the esteps say there's 4mm between the mark and the tube you would go 100/96×405 or what the esteps are currently that gives you new esteps of 421.8
@@SagansWar then you need to calibrate the flow % by printing a single wall cube and measure the walls
whats the diffrence between LA-PLA-V2 and Vyper-PLA-V2? which is the right profile for cura? and do i need to use your custom firmware for your cura profile?
Edit: Cura isnt accepting your profileformat... dunno why you also have 2 files ?!?
I'm using my v3 profile currently..been swamped last week or so will get thebdrive cleaned up. The v2 profile is based on the mega printer profile. The new v3 is build on the new cure 4.12 with the vyper machine try the v3 I'll clean the folder up today as well
The la version has settings for my firmware with linear advance. The non la os for non linear advance.
how to restart after pause? there is no button on the LCD screen after i push pause button. only "paused, waiting for command" this kind of massage appeared and nothing i can do about it. there is no 'restart' button what should i do?
It's a problem with the lcd firmware. They haven't posted proper sources for thay yet. I've been working on fixing it but the source they posted is just the base it needs to be built from scratch which is so time consuming. I fixed a couple issues with my custom firmware but you need to use pronterface or octoprint for it to work right. If you need more help or info drop me a message at studiozombie3d@gmail.com and I'll try and help you best I can
Did you make any Z offsets in the firmware or just leave it at zero?
I just leave it as is once I level it seems just right for me. Sometimes I will re level the bed if it isn't right. Haven't adjusted the z offset once with it surprisingly
@@studiozombie3d same. My only bed adhesion issues have come from blobbing at the nozzle after loading new filament (it defaults to 230 which is REALLY hot for PLA)
@@jeffersonderrickson5371 yeah I haven't printed off the SD card since the first week lol I use octoprint on mine.
Anyone help me...after this adjusts my Vyper don't touch the table after I send print command???
Did you re run the bed level? Try re running the bed level see of it helps.
Noticed that you don't put a G29 in the start gcode? Is there a reason why you wouldn't want the bed level to occur at the start of a print?
The bed is solid mounted I only level at the start of the day or if I remove the build plate. Don't have to level every print
That is what I figured as well. I have been trying it both ways and I have had better results with it on instead of off which makes no sense. I rarely remove the actual plate as the prints come off easily after cooling. Not sure why this is the way it is. Thanks for the video and prompt response. I am having some odd print issues and I am trying your settings now. Mostly dealing with stringing odd branches off the main parts that come off easily but are a pain. Thanks again!
@@bernardhny no problem if you are comfortable with calibrating and flashing you can try my custom firmware the linear advance fixes a ton of issues. Also has buffer tweaks for octoprint and a couple safety features works really well and been getting good feedback with it.
@@bernardhny I also think with the leveling being a pressure sensor system little things will affect it from level to level. If any filament oozes out it will throw it off a little it's really touchy from what I've seen in my 3 plus months with it
Great video mate, was finally able to finish my own profile with some of your settings. Tho do you dy chance have bridge settings?
I honestly just use my main profile here the 412 v3 and people have said it bridges really well had someone forget to put support under a 60mm hole and ot printed great lol drive.google.com/file/d/10V-xtDR9I86aG2jtefPlA8QdoxEnp0eL/view?usp=drivesdk
Looks like the settings guide plugin is no longer available :(
Oh really? That sucks it's a super handy plugin.
Ok looks like you can manually add it. Info here
github.com/Ghostkeeper/SettingsGuide
why are you choosing the I3 maga and changing the name to vyper. why not chose the vyper. the setting guide does not show up. it is in the top left drop down but not in the drop down on the right. what am i missing
This was made before the vyoer was added to cura. Unfortunately I generally get printers a month or two before release and there's no machine so I will generally use a custom printer. You can use the vyper machine in the new curas
pdf for settings and profile download
It won’t let me import your profile, I changed my start code to yours pls help
In cura does it say anything when you try to Import the profile?
Just a suggestion please video your computer screen a little closer. Particularly the settings. It’s easier to copy to a second screen from our side. Thank you
Will do maybe I'll add text to the screens if I'm showing info or I'll zoom in a bit more. Thanks for the suggestion. Also my profiles are always posted on my linktree as well as my custom firmwares. Will be posting updates soon to firmware again
I would like these settings with PETG. Would you be doing a video on necessary changes for different material.
I love my Vyper. My Prusa Mk3 is awaiting the plus upgrade that I keep putting off.
Also I want to add octopi to my Vyper. Any suggestions as to physically linking the raspberry pi to the printer.
I would like to use octopi. After watching your e-stop calibration I was convinced to purchase a pi and follow your lead.
Thanks again for all your help. My family will enjoy their printed gifts for Christmas 👍
@@1Hyetech appreciate your viewing. For the pi I just have mine sitting beside my printer in a case then the USB to the printer and my camera. It's the beat addon by far for printing. Makes life aoot easier. For petg I use the same profile but I change my speed to 50mms, I'll drop retraction to about 5mm at 40mms and fan speed I'll set to 40%. Hotend 235 and bed 80-100
@@studiozombie3d thank you I’ll trythat
@@1Hyetech I'm making a more thorough look at cura will have a pdf file in the description with what setting I have visible and my current settings. I'll add it to this description as well
1:00 but aren't the dimensions of the printer 245x245x260?
It's actually 250x255x265 It's wierd I know lol
The dimensions that he used come from Anycubic themselves. From using my vyper those settings allow you to build right up to the edge of the bed. Since the vyper has a removal print bed that flexes to release you can build on the entire build plate instead of leaving room for tools or other releasing methods.
Wow that's interesting!
It's a odd size for sure
Cheers for this - will be trying out these settings on a bunch of terrain. I'm only a week in with my Vyper but I'm learning a ton already!
Bob Ducca but faster.