Anycubic Vyper- Layer shifting & tips to solve it. Plus MPOX vs. Default Cura profile comparison
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2021
- In this video I'll cover what layer shifting is, what I tried for fixes, and what changes I made to solve the issue. I also cover the differences between the MPOX Cura profile for the Vyper versus the default Anycubic Cura profile (for PLA). I hope this helps someone with a similar problem.
Link to MPOX's video (with download links to his profile) and a big THANK YOU for providing this information:
• Anycubic VYPER - 3D Dr... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Thanks have not had that problem yet with my Vyper but great knowledge sharing for a potential trouble spot.
Thanks for sharing, thats some crazy shifting i was able to get rid of some minor stuff by tightening everything but still noticed on travels it oozed filament that would leave a line or spots as it traveled, i thought this was part of the print for the longest and couldnt figure out why it was spotty sometimes thinking it was the z-offset which never got rid of it unless i went really hi which messed up the layers. So it turns out the z-hop setting can fix that, thank you! That is a potential for problems and actually ive restarted prints because of it, thankfully during the first layer as it travelled it would leave those lines and they'd get caught on the next go around sometimes , but one time i left it when that happened and the print sorted itself out, but still, a very easy source of problems fixed with z-hop, thanks again!
Glad to hear this helped!
For those who don't have 16 minutes to go through this video (seriously, thanks for the info, but get to the point already!):
- Lower print speed
- Enable/increase zhop
That's all there is to it.
;) I do try to be thorough. Glad it helped!
It sounds like you may need to increase the electrical current to the axis that is shifting. It can be done through a command line interface, with gcode. A google search will pull up many guides on the subject. I believe that slowing it down is just a bandaid solution. The default profiles are always too fast in my experience, but the Vyper should be able to print very fast. My Vyper is arriving tomorrow, and I’m just looking for what problems I may have to contend with. Thanks for clueing me into this potential problem, and I hope you can get this sorted without having to print at 1/3rd of its potential. Best luck.
Thanks for the tip! I agree that it's no good to slow the print down to compensate for an error that can be fixed elsewhere. I'll continue to experiment and also look into the gcode for current that you mentioned. I'm thinking it may be M906 or M907 commands according to the Marlin reference- marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M906.html
Thanks for watching.
@@renaissancelaboratories5645 I received my Vyper Tuesday, and it was the most painless setup I’ve encountered with a 3D printer. I performed the usual calibration, and torture tested it with a difficult print. It performed flawlessly even at high speed, and acceleration settings. I’m really impressed with it. I saw that some people have had their Y axis motor mount break. You may want to look into that as well, and check the Y axis pulley to make sure it’s hasn’t come loose, if you haven’t already. The key search words for the current gcode adjustments are “TMC2209 UART current adjustment”, and the gcode Marlin command is M906. marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M906.html
The current can not be adjusted by command line interface, the TMC2209 drivers were not installed with uart communication, so they have to be adjusted by using the pots on the board, but no vref has been given to know the recommended current.
@@B3DPrinting good to know. Thank you.
You cannot do that on vyper, nor most of the budget printers as they have no UART mode for the steppers..
The issue is not the motor current, it is the 3000mm/s/s default acceleration, its simply too high an acceleration for the printer to cope with, there is too much mass in the bed to throw it around at that rate..
Dropping acceleration to 1500 to 1000mm/s/s will fix the issue without changing anythng else..
I think the 0.16 is chosen because it matches a number of steps per revolution of the z axis. Technically with the new drivers that do microstepping is not necessary but people who worked with old stepper drivers tend to adjust based on these.
I personally use this mpox profile but with adaptive layers set to +0.2 / 0.005 step. It cuts in half simple prints (as it almost doubles layer height in those ones), but ones with lots of z detail are still slow.
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
So these settings fixed the green thing you were trying to print at the beginning of the video?
Yes indeed, I got the part to articulate correctly, smooth print without layer shifts. Hope it helps!
I've been experiencing layer shifting on some of my longer prints. I've printed the cube and it has come out great. Most of my less time involve prints come out great. I'm going to try your suggestions. I'm hoping to get the problem resolved. It's frustrating the have a project fail 3/4 of the way through a 15 hour print.
Yes, I had several disappointing prints myself. Patience is important here and keeping the nozzle from hitting the part helps a lot. Best of luck, thanks for watching.
Have you fixed your problem? If yes could you please say what was the problem?
@@maxgroo2626The MPOX profile has corrected the shifting problem that I had.
@@wonkster1970 Ok, thank you)
@@maxgroo2626 You're welcome.
The default profile is a mess, I had the same problem with the Anycubic Vyper's default profile.
This happens because the travel acceleration is set to 3000 which is way too big. I just use a profile from Creality CR-6 SE with some tweaks.
Most of the times I use 0.2 mm for layer height, but if I need more accuracy I use 0.16mm or if I need speed 0.28mm.
Great info, thanks. Yes, 0.2 is a reliable height but I've used 1.6 as well and I tried 0.08 but it didn't seem to make much difference in detail on a mini. Thanks for watching, I may try out a CR-6 profile.
I actually cloned my Ender 3 Max settings for everything over to the Vyper, all I changed was retract, and acceleratio/ speed etc as the vyper can cope with more speed and acceleration due to lighter bed and hotend..
It actually works quite surprisingly well!
The print quality and speed of my Anycubic Vyper are not exactly good. I noticed that with Linear Advance the bulges at the corners are less. The only problem is, Anycubic has not activated this feature. Can you help here? It should work with Pressure Advance too, but I haven't found a way with Windows yet. Whereby Pressure Advance should help the Vyper to improve quality and speed. Could you possibly make a video about these possibilities. thanks in advance.
A few wise people have gotten both linear advance and pressure advance working on the Vyper. It seems linear advance requires custom firmware. I'll add this to my to-do list to experiment with. Thanks for watching!
@@renaissancelaboratories5645 thanks in advance
Is the bed wires getting caught on the y motor?
No issues with the bed wires at all. They are stiff enough to have limited movement. There is a bracket on Thingiverse if you are having issues. Thanks for watching!
the bottom layers is either thickness or number of layers.. It does not create the thickness using the number of layers..
So if your layer height is 0.2mm, and you have 4 bottom layers set with 1.6mm bottom thickness, it overrides the thickness and uses just 4 bottom layers so a thickness of 0.8mm - That is why the thickness is greyed out..
If you click the Fx button next to the number of layers, it switches back to calculated based on the thickness and would give you 8 layers (1.6mm/0.2mm). By entering a number of layers you override the default calculation and the layer thickness is no longer used.
The other issue you have is most likely the acceleration in the default profile, you need to switch to "All Settings" to see them, but acceleration is what mostly causes layer shifts, if it is set too high then the rapid acceleration is more then the machine can cope with and it loses steps, so even a slight additional resistance of touching a slightly raised part is the straw that breaks the camels back.
Creality defaults for acceleration are very conservative at 500mm/s/s, you should have little issue doubling this, I use 1500 without any layer shifting.
The speed is really of little consequence, for anything but long moves its is unlikely that the speed will actually reach set point with a conservative acceleration, with acceleration at 500mm/s/s you can wind the speed all the way up to 150mm/s and a calibration cube will probably only get to about 40mm/s as it simply does not have enough time/ distance to accelerate to higher speeds. Think of it like the gas peddle in the car, if you slam your foot down hard the car will start skidding, losing traction, and maybe control, if you press the peddle slowly the car maintains traction,and speed increases, they bot will eventually get to the same top speed if you have enough road but doing so slowly is safer and gives more control and traction, the printer is the same, lower acceleration gives it more traction and control..
So to sum up, it is the rate of change of speed, acceleration, which is the major contributing factor here.. If the move is long enough for the nozzle to get up to 80mm/s once it reaches that speed its inertia will plough through minor obtrusions without skipping steps, it is in the acceleration stage , when acceleration settings are high, of the move where the printer is working at its limits and during that stage even a minor problem will be enough to cause the motor to skip.
I hope this helps you understand a wee bit more of the 460 odd cura settings there are to learn!
Thanks for these details! I've been using a slightly modified MPOX profile for Cura and my layer shifts have cured. Z Hop height seems to have helped quite a bit but as you said, that may not be the cause but the symptom of other settings needing adjustment. Thank you for checking out the channel!
@@renaissancelaboratories5645 I Shou;d have said the biggest cause of layer shifts is slack belts, and the print surface moving on the bed if not clamped down tight enough..
problems with prints are much more likely to be hardware issues than settings issues, default profiles are normally fairly reasonable as long as the machine its self is performing as it should be... There are many cases where trying to fix a poorly assembled/ maintained machine lead to a settings adjusting rabbit hole that never ends..
Did you fix the problem?
yes, lowering speed a little and adding some zhop did solve the issue. Hope this helps!
Out of nowhere I've started having the same issue even on profiles I've been using for sometime
I discovered my frequent layer shifts were because I tried calibrating my E-steps and despite my best efforts, seem to be slightly over-extruding.
I didn't make the connection till I bought the Anycubic Kobra, had amazing prints from it, then discovered similar behavior after using the teaching tech esteps calibration tool.
Good to know and thanks for sharing this info!
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