Anycubic Vyper Calibration V2 (e-steps , flow, linear advance)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มี.ค. 2022
- Second Version of calibration routine for the anycubic Vyper.
I cover the belt tension, V wheel adjustment, Esteps, flow and liner advance calibrartions.
A few quick easy steps to getting the best prints possible.
Forgot to mention You will need to install the USB driver from here: (thanks eric lol)
drive.google.com/file/d/18BVt...
check my Vyper review here:
3dwithus.com/anycubic-vyper-r...
Link to my Firmware folder:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
link to pronterface to send commands to printer if you don't have octoprint:
www.pronterface.com/
link to Cura profiles:
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Link to linear advance Pattern:
marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advanc...
Juncton Devieation info:
marlinfw.org/docs/configurati...
Calibration cube for flow:
drive.google.com/file/d/1r4CA...
Thanks for watching Everybody Stay tuned for new Printers and videos Right around the corner.
linktree:
linktr.ee/Zombiej79 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
This is fantastic as always - thank you very much for taking the time to create these excellent videos, very helpful!
Finaly some one who explains what you need to do whitout any bs and what color of the airplain the dude next dore have ! GRATE WORK BRO
Much appreciated man I like to keep things short and simple I find it works best
Bro you just spelled door dore just stfu
Great video and instructions! Thanks for helping me get my Vyper steps/flow dialed in!
Very informative video, well done sir!
Amazingly useful! Thanks for sharing!
Hello. Thank you greatly for the excellent work, and for sharing it. It's greatly appreciated!
Seriously did not know about the bed eccentric nuts. Thanks!
Nice video for tuning your vyper
A really good clear concise video explaining every critical steps on calibrating anycubic vyper without the head f#€k.... Thank you 😊
Cette Video est superbe merci pour ces explications . Thanks a lot for this video.
Thanks so mucch . cant wait to run home and try these out
Great video Will. Thanx a lot.
Good work. Learned some on this one too. I like that you added the belt tensioning as it helped me see what to look for. If a picture is worth 1 words, video is worth a million.
If you could do a video on upgrading heatbreak, capricorn tube, and nozzle, I would find that extremely valuable. I've got a stock vyper and hesitant to modify because I don't want to break anything. I really want to print ASA so I've ordered all upgrades including enclosure but hesitating at the moment.
It's not too bad to change I'm just in crunch time for the new anycubuc fdm and sla reviews finishing them up now and will do a disassembly video
@@studiozombie3d Hey Will, I just ran the linear advance test and none of the lines look good. Can I send you a vid or picture so you can tell me what you think?
@@OnTeamHumanity yeah for sure hit me up on my Facebook or studiozombie3d@gmail.com
on second thought, it just occurred to me, could it be because I performed the e-steps and flow with a different filament? Should you perform all 3 steps whenever changing filament?
@@OnTeamHumanity it's best to use the same for all tests some material is harder and some softer I find
Thanks very much, I performed the calibration processes including vref, hopefully it will make a good difference. Have a nice day :)
Let me know how it all works out
@@studiozombie3d Works amazing. I started with a k value of 0.55, noticed some blobbing on the external perimeters. Tried 0.35 and seems perfect. Thanks again so much! By the way you have a professional voice, very calm and easy to understand, I have ADHD and it's often a struggle to understand instructions but you do it clearly. Best wishes.
Soo helpful! Thank you so much!!
Very Nice and clear
Hey man, great video thanks. Do you have somewhere I can see all your settings? I followed your tutorial but a few problems arose. When doing the Marlin test, it didn't print out the full graph, only the first couple lines then gave up. Every other step was followed before then, but when printing a benchy, it looks identical to before your video. Very stringy.
Thank you, thank you, thank YOU!
As always, clear, and concise Will! thank you. Your videos, are awesome. These demonstrations made it possible for me to become a successful 3D maker.
I noticed you talked about installing and using pronterface. But some people might need to know that the windows PC needs the VYPER serial driver installed first, so Pronterface can use that comm port to talk to the vyper. Just an observation.
thanks again, can’t wait for the rest of the videos now!!!!!! 👊
Good call I'll edit the description man and add the USB driver. I totally blanked on that lol
I should have a batch of videos going up Sunday afternoon that will be a good watch
And link added to description for USB driver lol
@@studiozombie3d Will that driver work the same for the kobra max?
Can you show how to do this for the Kobra Max? Also, is do you have a profile for PETG on the Kobra Max?
Hi dude. I have the same printer, I always had the doubt if the autoleveling is affected by the preheating of the hot bed, right?
Your videos are very useful, thank you.
Thank you for this informative video. You have a new subscriber. Is there a way to improve the corner print quality of the cube? On my cube the corners are not very sharp and bulge out a bit (a bit of overextrusion seen)
If your running stock firmware you will need to play with your acceleration and jerk settings. I'd using my custom the linear advance will help clean up the corners of prints.
Excellent vid as always, Will, thank you for all you do.
Have you by any chance run into any issues with your strain gauge? They went bad on both my vypers.
Also, any word on nozzle temps above 260? Does your vyper accept anything higher than 260? I still can't figure it out for the life of me why entering anything above 260 gets throttled back to 260 on both my vypers.
Also, I enclosed one vyper in an enclosure with the filament dryer inside that also heats the enclosure, which did wonders for printing carbon fiber, but after like 20 big prints, it suddenly went bonkers. I'm still diagnosing as this just happened yesterday, but my best guess so far is that the motherboard couldn't take the higher temps and got fried, so I have to modify the setup to raise the bottom of the enclosure so that it doesn't enclose the bottom of the printer where the electronics are, and to run the LCD outside as well. Should be pretty easy, just add a 1/8" thick wood floor with custom cutouts that sits on top of the bottom beams.
Printing carbon fiber with this setup is almost perfect, the layer adhesion is almost there, if only I could raise the nozzle temp a few more degrees, it should be perfect.
I've tweaked the cura profile for the esun epa-cf almost perfectly to get excellent accuracy/definition at 0.1 layer height, super easy cleanup, and amazing strength, but the weak spot is definitely the layer adhesion, even if I print at 10mm/s I have to beef up the thickness in spots to compensate.
The other day I did a temp tower didn't pay attention to Temps and was set to 270. As soon as I hit 265 it triggered and shut down. Tried 4 times same thing.
My strain gauge is still good but I'm aging support for bltouch and the lrisa style pinda sensors.
Thanks for your video. I'm testing my linear advance, and all the lines look the same to me. None of them seem to be better or worse than the others. Any suggestions on what I should look for or settings I shuld change?
I have two vypers. I recently changed the nozzles on both because they were getting old and the printers started printing weird. Before the nozzle changes all I had to do was auto level and it was good to go. Now 1 printer requires a +1 z offset and the other printer requires a -1.5 offset. And now neither will print the initial layer properly or supports. Any suggestions ?
Could you post a video of the inside of the y belt tensioner and how it should be put together? I took mine off trouble shooting and these little black pieces came out and I don't know how they go back
Thank you for this video. I really appreciate it. Going through this and making the necessary adjustment really improved the quality of my prints.
Just need to tinker with my z offset a little bit. Do you have any good info you can point me towards?
For the offset I will print something with a brim then measure the thickness of the brim and adjust the offset to match inital layer height
@@studiozombie3d Great advice. I'll do it. Thanks again!!
Hi there, just ordered this printer, been using the Anycubic kossell linear plus for many years but can no longer source parts for it 😢 i need new rail sliders for the arms and a new build surface for my heated bed mainly. Have approached Anycubic but they no longer produce parts for the linear plus either. Can you suggest a 3rd party that may be able to supply parts or upgrades for my kossell linear plus? Im super excited about the viper and hope it lives up to its name ! How hard would it be to setup a dual colour hot end and extruders and also wondering if you know of any mods to make it direct drive instead of bowden style.... looking forwards to hearing back from you ! Am watching your videos and learning heaps have learned a lot over the year's from delta printers but just this video alone ive learned more from than years of printing with my delta. Any tips to make the Viper a amazing machine and do perfect prints would be very very muchly appreciated 😊 👍 new sub and many likes 👍
Hi.. I'm completely new to 3D printing and just ordered the Vyper yesterday.. really excited to start! As new as I am, do you think installing your firmware will make my starter prints any better? I'm ok with tinkering and tweaking settings, I just dont want to have issues and now know what to ask or how to troubleshoot. Also - will this print PETG with its current hotend? or will I need to change it?
Any suggestions on your favorite filament brands? Thanks for a VERY informative video. You gained a subscriber :)
im running Will's firmware - BIG difference. and Capricorn tubing now.
My linear advance test is coming out completely wrong compared to yours. I only get 5 long horizontal lines and then the printer quickly moves up and puts two vertical lines above those. Then it pushes the bed out, moves Z up 2cm, and stops.
Hi there, do you advise using the CURA extension that adds linear advance to the slicer options? It seems like a nice way of setting the k factor if you change filament a lot.
Yep I use it on my cura for my vypet makes adjusting super easy
Thanks a ton for posting this info and the files! Huge help in calibrating my Vyper, especially the linear advance. A question I hope you can answer...I'm trying a mid-print filament color change in the Vyper using your Zombie v.8 custom firmware, Prusa Slicer, and Pronterface. After the printer receives the M600 from the Prusa-sliced gcode via Pronterface, the print head parks and unloads the filament as it should. But after loading the new filament and sending an M108, it only echos: "echo:busy: paused for user" over and over, no matter how many M108s are sent. I then tried pausing Pronterface and it extruded a little bit of filament, but then nothing when pausing/resuming again or sending M108s. Any idea what I'm missing? Perhaps a Prusa Slicer-specific issue?
Update: I created a profile in Cura and tested it there but same issue. After unloading filament, no response with M108. Hit Pause in Pronterface and it then loads the filament. Send an M108, no response. Hit Resume and it does resume print but only waits for input. Send another M108, still no response, only the continuous "echo:busy: paused for user".
@@chad4256 try my 2.5 color change should work better on it. 2.8 does odd random things with some vyoers no idea why it's all the same hardware
@@studiozombie3d Awesome, thanks! That works, at least for Prusa Slicer. I didn't test it but I trust it'll work for Cura as well. One last question...is the Pause/Resume command in Pronterface the same as sending an M108? At M600 the print head parked then waited. I sent an M108 and it unloaded a little filament. I pulled the rest out then loaded the new filament and sent another M108 but nothing. I hit Pause in Pronterface which caused it to extrude a bunch of filament then it automatically returned to the already printed part, dragging all the unloaded filament with it. It then waited for me to hit Resume. I must have the order of things wrong, or perhaps I shouldn't be using the Pause/Resume in Pronterface at all...?
@@chad4256 you might be able to use the pause button to replace sending the m108 i believe they both use m108
@@studiozombie3d Thanks for all your help. I just stopped by your website and bought you a cup of coffee.
I bought an Anicubyc cobra max printer and it did a few prints with a satisfactory level of quality and then it started to have under extrusion the whole object has holes in it. I tried various flow and temperature settings and a lot of other things, but there was no change for the better. Then I wanted to do an e-step calibration with the pronterface and I noticed that the extruder stops three or four times while pushing the 100 mm filament and then continues, regardless of whether it pushes the filament through the hot head or directly from the extruder without a bowden tube. There is no way I can set it to push exactly 100mm, it always has underextrusion, sometimes by 25mm, and it always pushes less than 100mm. The gears in the extruder are good and clean. Could you give me some advice if the problem is in the motor, the motherboard, the voltage that the motor receives or what it is about. Thanks a lot.
Great Videos, very informative, i was following everything and having issues with the linear advance, checked out the comments and found the answer that i needed the custom firmware. So i installed it following your other video and installed FIrmware Zombie 2.8, calibrated estops, releveled the bed rehomed. Now when i go to start the cube file it starts like 10mm above the bed? any ideas why, the homing looks like its in the right spot
Thank You
Send m502 twice to reset then m500 to save the eeprom then reenter your calibration values and relevel that should fix it
@@studiozombie3d thank you, i did it but it didnt reset, so i saw another comment and rehomed it a few times and it took
Hi I've jumped into 3D printing with the Vyper as my first unit. I've been able to get some initial prints and tuning done.
I got to tuning linear advance and found out that stock firmware doesn't support it > installed your version 2.8 > got linear advance working.
However I seem to have lost the resume on power loss functionality. Using pronterface I can see that (power loss recovery) M413 is S0, and tried turning it on then M500, and M503 to check that it is S1, however upon power off / reset, the setting doesn't stick and goes back to S0 when checking.
I do love the quality improvement from linear advance, but the resume print is an even bigger thing for me due to power fluctuations where I am.
Any idea how to work around this? I do appreciate the work you've put into this, much thanks.
Try my 2.5 it's more stable for people the 2.8 seems to act odd on the odd unit.
drive.google.com/file/d/1fIU_pV5bnlu77GIQXc9qPa7W9otn1aFr/view?usp=drivesdk
I should have a new update shortly with fixes from the kobra zombie firmware
Hello thanks for your videos, I can’t get mine to connect I have it pluged in to usb on computer any ideas? got connected had to restart program then I got a different port
Hi! On the Flow test one of my sides gave me a 0.95 and the rest had a 0.84. Your Math got me the Number 74% Flow. Did i something wrong here, or could it be really that low? Absolute great Video and thank you so much!
Try it at 74% and reprint the cube and measure it
Also is there a way to use rhe micro sd card slot as a secondary card reader for prints ?
I Installed Zombie V2.8 and when i go to print it heats up to temp but stays at home position. The timer for the print goes on but the printhead does not move. Any tips?
Hi, how did you create your custom firmware, what was your starting point? Is your firmware open source? Thank you.
i am wanting to upgrade to direct drive on my anycubic max but do you have eny god ways to get around the leveling sensor?
i was wondering if i use your version 2.3.8/9 on your google drive apart from redoing all my settings is there anything else that different or is it still a marlin based install?
Hello sir, I followed the procedure for koba ma printer but I can't find the value 900 however I find 205 but not the Jerck value it's normal thank you for your answer.
I just got the latest firmware for vyper, and when i tried to print the cube test, the printer was printig 1 layer in the cube, something outisde the cube, in the air, idk what and why, cant figure it out what is happening
all great info but how to you connect the Vyper to the network for the software to pick it up?
The vyper is connected via USB to the pc
omg, i finally found an informative video about setting up my kobra max...
i have 1 question tho. i used the word doc start and end the gcode, here is the start gcode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
G28 ; Home all axes
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X2 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X2.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X2.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 F2400 E-1
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
the last line G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
that takes the hotend from the z2.0 mark and moves it to z0.3 THEN starts my print....
it rapids to the start of my print at z0.3 off the bed
if i change this to say 1mm will it go back to the Zstart of the print at the z0.3? or do i have to change it in the acutall file print section?
You can adjust the height on the start gcode and once the print starts it will go to the distance you have the offset set to.
When running linear advance test all my lines looks bad (as your zero line). Any advice?
thanks a lot for your video! Its my first 3d print, and your channel is helping me a lot!
If your running stick firmware thatbwill be the issue. You can send me a email and pictures and I can help you a bit better studiozombie3d@gmail.com
@@studiozombie3d Ill try your custom firmware! thanks
Studio Zombie, Hi firstly thanks for the great videos, I have followed this one to a tee firstly printing the test cube with the flow rates at 100% and the results were 1.07 to 1.09 on the .80 cube, I did the math and set the flow rates to 74% and resliced and reprinted the cude now averaging .86 , should I ddrop the rate lower?
Try dropping it maybe 3% and check again see if it's closer
@@studiozombie3d Thanks , what is the best way to set the Z off set for this printer?
I tried different filaments (old & wet, and new & dry), and the wet filaments gave me 0.95mm wall width wheres the new dry filament gave me just 0.85
Currently in the process of updating my vyper and dialing everything in. What I'm not too sure about is your firmware version. What's the difference between Zombie 2.8 and Zombie Vyper 2.8?
Just the file name
Thanks for this tutorial, Ive followed it twice and in both situations, I only get 0, 0.5 and 1 when printing the K factor linear calibration pattern. How can I make it print more lines?
Thanks again
I changed the k factor stepping to 0.05 to get the same test grid he did. But all of my lines narrow in the center. Not one printed good.
I’m only getting 0, 0.5 and 1 lines out of the k-factor calibration g-code. Is there a setting I’m missing? Also curious if pitting on walls could be related to retraction speed? Do you have anywhere I could send you a photo? Looking for some advice as standard calibration isn’t doing much for me.
me too :/
me also - not sure why
Me too. I can’t find any answers online. I have the 2.8 zombie firmware flashed to my vyper, but I only get 0, 0.5, and 1 on my linear advance print. I followed all the instructions for the g-code build. I don’t know what to do.
Had the same issue, just set the K-Factor Stepping to 0.1 under the category pattern
@@ProgamerNP THANK YOU! I’m going to try this later today
anyone else having issues with the vyper not saving the values for the bed leveling? Ive tried doing the linear test which the first time it works, but when i run anything afther my nozzle likes to print way above the bed.
Interesting. I did not see the line advance from pronterface...
Hello, great tutorial ;). Do you know how to calibrate the hotend thermistor ? I set the printer to 200 °C and measured the temperature with a thermocouple inserted in the thermistor screw hole. I found that the actual temperature was 210°C instead of 200 but so far so good. For some reason I replaced the hotend that came with an already installed thermistor. Measured again this time the actual temperature was 218°C on the hotend and 200 on the printer. I would like to match the reading from the multimeter with the printer as this time it can make difference while printing (20°C are too much).
Thank you so much!
Theres a few units I've seen that run hotter then it reads you can try running a pid tune and see if that helps dial it in. Commect with pronterface and send M303 E0 C6 S210 U1 and it will run 6 cycles at 210 and save the results. Then check it and see if that helps
@@studiozombie3d Hi, thanks . I will try soon ;) . Have a nice day!
@@davidev1734 let me know what happens
@@studiozombie3d Hi, sorry for delay. Just tried the PID autotune but it didn't help (or even a bit worste) . I had a look inside the firmware code and it looks like there is no temperature calibration (hope I'm wrong!) and the temperature sensor is chosen at firmware compilation time. For now my solution is to reduce the printing temp in the filament settings in Cura, so far so good. If you have other suggestion about this issue let me know,you are welcome! thanks for now and keep up the good work!
Davide
Hello, I have installed your firmware for the Vyper to use Linear Advance. The flashing worked without any problems but unfortunately it does not print the LA calibration pattern. It prints the first line (K0) after that the lines are incomplete or not printed at all. It also does not print the numbers next to the frame. But I did everything like in your video. Do you have any idea what the problem could be?
Thaaaaaank you. ;-)))
I love ur vids! What is the newest version of ur firmware?
Currently 2.8 is my latest for the vyper I'm going to try and get a v3 up here as soon as I can
@@studiozombie3d thank you so much!
G5 appears in my code and the firmware is incapable of reading this, yet it is produced in your cura profile for the vyper
For my linear test it only prints 0.0 ,0.5 and 1.0 i have firmware 2.4.5
for yours i see it prints 10 lines i have no idea why
TIA
Hi I hope I can still get some help with this. For some reason my m900 doesn't show up after I enter m503 into pronterface. Would someone be able to help with this?
H, awesome and clear videos. As a tutorial should be, straight to the point without bla bla bla
I think 87 is going to be the correct flow. Give it a try at 87 and see how it looks you can always bump it up a bit to adjust. Any trouble fire me a message on my social media or studiozombie3d@gmail.com
Because, he used a cube with 0.8mm wall width. The german videos (I watched them, too) use 0.4mm wall width.
Hey man great video, but how are you getting Pronterface to connect? Mine just sits at "connecting" if I close it and try again it just does the same thing, or if I attempt to do basically anything else in Pronterface the program freezes and doesn't respond so I have to close it and reopen and same thing. I don't have any firewalls blocking it. my length, speed, port, etc are all the same as yours. Any ideas? Appreciate it.
Did you install the USB driver? And is cura open? If cura is open pronterface can't connect. Try that and let me know if that helps. You can also click on port and it should pick the correct com port for the printer
@@studiozombie3d Hey Man I really appreciate the help. I was beyond confused for a minute. ha The port just was selecting the incorrect one. Got it figured out though. So I get to where we extrude 100 mm. Well mine went PAST my mark. I assume I pull it out, measure still, and take the 100 % 102 x 405 (in my case)? Same thing even though my mark went past, opposite of yours..? Again, I really appreciate the help. I just want to make sure I don't mess something up even more than what it is with the issues I've been having. Not trying to dig a deeper hole.. Ha
@@threadchemistry if the mark went inside the tube just try dropping the esteps to about 390 or 400 and it should be before the tube. If you can get a accurate emeasurement of the mark to the tube just go 100/ say 110× esteps and it should be pretty close
@@threadchemistry and if your ever stuck feel free to hit me up on Facebook or my other social media or email studiozombie3d@gmail.com
@@studiozombie3d Just sent you a quick email buddy..
im having trouble getting the linear advance pattern to print, do i open it with pronterface? noob question haha
Once you set the file up and save the gcode just load onto the SD and print it.
@@studiozombie3d thanks, i ended up getting it to work. and thanks for the video, it has been a great help!
Just curious... in Cura there are Linear Advance settings too. What should these be set to?
If you have conpatable firmware and have set it in the firmware via terminal you don't need to use the cura setting. It's more for if you need to adjust between filaments
I guess you only need to recalibrate the Viper if a newer FW comes out for it?
Actually, I find that it's good to do with any new filament or if making any changes, and also just periodically, possibly because of atmospheric changes. And sunspots and aliens.
OK, when I print the pattern, it only prints 5 lines with every other line numbered...0, .5 and 1. All of my settings are exactly like yours in the video. What could I be doing wrong? I do have your latest firmware loaded. Thanks for any help.
Nevermind. I saw the post by K B about changing the K factor to .1. Great video. Thanks for all you do!
When i restart my printer the E steps go back to default. the K value saves but not the E steps. it worked before on stock firmware so i dont know it it is a bug? or anyway around it?
Try sending a m502 to reset the eeprom to factory settings then re enter your k value and esteps then m500 to save and see if that helps
will this work on a kobra max?
My lines all narrow in the center when I did linear advance test. Not a single one is nice and even. Please help. I also do not get an m900 returned when I send m503
i cannot get pronterface to connect to the printer, any ideas? are there any steps that werent included in the video? thank you
Is it not finding your com ports? If so it's a windows 10 problem.
close cura, pronterface won't connect to printer if cura is open in the background
hello, I've installed marlin and did linear advance but even in my best line of the linear advance test, there is still a significant bump right side of the line. in fact, there a bumps in ALL the lines in my linear advance test pattern. I choose 0.45 because it is the one with most stabil line but still, it has a bump at the right side, where fast line slows down. Is something mechanically wrong with my printer? because as I said this bump exists in all lines. also my esteps are calibrated. Please at least tell me your best guess.
It's hard to say what the cause could be..hof to prints themselves look? Feel free to send me a message on Facebook or studiozombie3d@gmail.com
@@studiozombie3d Same here. Could you get the issue fixed?
@@ThePianor during the test I've seen that on a few people's printers, but it didn't really effect print quality during actual printing. Most of the people who I've talked with and helped the k value is between .40 and .60 on my vyper I don't print the pattern I just adjust and test myself. But the pattern will give you a good idea of where it should be
Great video how often should you do this
I check the belts and wheels weekly just to see if they need tightening. For the flow and esteps I'll generally do it when I get a new brand of filament or type pla to petg ot tpu
Hey man. nice video. A printed my linear patent from 0 to 2 but it is still not good. I also canot find M900 in prontoface. if i will try to change K-factor i have error message "Unknown comand M900 Kx.x" Can you help me?
yes me too (anycubic vyper)
Stock firmware dosent have lie ar advance enabled drive.google.com/file/d/1fIU_pV5bnlu77GIQXc9qPa7W9otn1aFr/view?usp=drivesdk
This is my 2.5 it has everything enabled
It looks like m900 (linear advance) is not enabled for the factory firmware.
i dont have "linear advance" in marlin settings. HOw instal this?
Is there a way to do the Esteps without physically connecting the printer amd PC? Mine are in different rooms
I installed the driver from the link in the description and followed everything but it just won't connect to my vyper
If you have cura open when trying to use pronterface curs will block the connection
The vyper has been giving me issues to calibrate, i normally stop at the esteps calibration but now im still having issues. im thinking it may be my combing mode whats making my shell look ugly with buldging lines etc
Check your maximum resolution settings they should be .25, .25 and 0.025
Thanks! You sound like young gravy lol
When I did the linear advance test mine only printed the 0, 0.5 and 1. Have I done something wrong?
D'Oh nevermind should have just look through the comments sorted now
Hello! I got an issue with your firmware. Every time i restart my printer it lost the level calibration. This can be fixed in some way?
Try sending m502 twice then m500 to save Then relevel and let me know it that helps
I also have this issue, tired the suggest codes with no luck
How did you get the number 98 to divide 100 by?
Hi Will. I'm just wondering if your Cura settings PDF is still up to date. Thanks.
I'll update the pdf to v4 tonight been swamped lolb
@@studiozombie3d Wow. Thanks. I saw there is a v4 profile listed in your files with 2 files but am not too sure how to load it up from the list. The files show up as 1979 and so I'm a little confused; not unusual for me :-). It's easy enough to copy the numbers from the PDF though. Thanks again.
@@pwal8468 yeah the profile feels are wierd they shouldn't open ypu just import as is bit it's buggy at times. I'll upload and post the link hereb
Great video. But on my linear advance, my lines are barely visible? I went up to 3 and still had fat than thin than fat again lines? Help pls
Linear advance only works on custom.firmware if you are on stock you don't need to set it
@@studiozombie3d If i do the linearsdvance and the k values printed show no difference, how do i adjust that?
@@LueBangs if your running stock firmware the linear test won't do anything you need to run firmware with it enabled. You can send pics to studiozombie3d@gmail.com and I can get a better idea
When i download the Linear, my G-Code comes with only 3 lines and its in Inches. Is there a way that you can just provide your G-Code file?
Fire me a email at studiozombie3d@gmail.com or reach me on Facebook and I'll give you a hand
hello.What firmware i need to flash.because stock 2.4.5 have not linear advance.
All you will need to do is flash the printer itself just loaf rhe .bin file from here and place on the sdcard I sent it into pronter and power on it should update.
drive.google.com/file/d/1fIU_pV5bnlu77GIQXc9qPa7W9otn1aFr/view?usp=drivesdk
sorry...maybe Im too stupid. But when Im checking for the linear advanced....this section is not available in my firmware (info says: 2.4.5)
thx
Hello friend, can you help me with the Vyper firmware?, I don't want to spoil everything and I want to find out how to properly flash it with the zombie 2.8 version, please help, thank you in advance)
Nice Video! Will you ever do a modification video? Like how to mod it with better cooling? There is a lot of facebook group posts but not videos on how to do it
I printed the hero me setup but never Installed it I wanted to keep my vyepr stock for comparison to the new kobra, but I can definitely do a quick guide video.
The bi-metal heatbrake is super easy to install and definitely really worth it. Best thing to do is just carefully take apart your entire hot-end and get familiar with all the parts and how to assemble/disassemble properly before you go trying to swap parts out. That way, you will understand how to replace parts without leaving a gap anywhere, which will cause failed prints and lots of frustration. I replaced the hot-end block with an all-copper e3d volcano v6 pt100, it's almost identical to the vyper's and the vyper's silicone cover fits almost perfectly, but you can also get one made specifically for it. I also used non-conductive thermal paste between the heater rod and the block, the nozzle and the block, the heat-brake and the heatsink, and the thermistor and the block. The difference in temp accuracy and time to reach temp target is immediately noticeable, so it will theoretically reduce fatigue as well as speeding prints up a tad and getting more consistent prints due to more accurate temps. The copper block of course heats up faster and more evenly, and the bi-metal heat-brake will protect the end of your bowden tube from burning and going bad over time. A Capricorn bowden tube is also super easy and worth every penny. When you install it, on the feed-gear side, after you get the right length, heat the bowden tube up with a lighter and stick a properly-sized awl or round nail in to expand the end of the tube, that way the tube will never start wearing out and slipping, which will give you tons of headaches if you don't know to watch for it. Also learn how to add like a mm of length before tightening the bowden tube adapters, that way the bowden tube will be pressed in for a more solid seal and lock.
The M900 command doesn't seem to work anymore. Linear advance is not shown when entering M503. Anyone have any insight into this?
Same here....
I printed a calibration cube All the walls withing 1/100mm distance to all sides within specification. Only have a problem with one corner just slightly rounded. It looks like that's where a seam is. should I print the cube turned slightly?
You can try changing the location of the seam or try to smart hide it. It will bring a bit round on the seam side
Thanks things are getting better. Have to admit the Vref was scary, was nervous but all went well. It was like performing surgery😂. PLA prints are great. Need help with PETG prints. Just need to get the temp right. BTW is there a code that will set temp when printing a temp tower? I got the Gcode set in Marlin but couldn’t print on Octoprint got a error code
Would arc welder help
@@1Hyetech yeah the vref can be intimidating for sure my hands shake a little so I act like it's surgery lol
For petg on my system I run 230 on hotend 80 on the bed and print at 50mms I'll also make sure retraction is lower I use 3mm for most material on retraction
@@1Hyetech for temp towers in curs get calibration shapes plugin pick the temp tower and then click modify g code and there's a temp/fan tower you can set the Temps theren
Does the printer need to be flashed with a different firmware
For linear advance and junction deviation you will need to flash my zombie firmware current version is 2.8 drive.google.com/file/d/1ZIN2u4g0sn3cMPhL1vRbfE1zs95fAOnz/view?usp=drivesdk
@@studiozombie3d Hey man, when this is installed is the linear advance is already turned on? Been following Teaching Tech and he spoke about removing a comment in Marlin to make it functional. Came across your content when looking for vyper specific content. Its been great, thanks so much.
@@ryanmcc09 if you flash my firmware I have linear advance enabled on it. You can try my 2.5
drive.google.com/file/d/1fIU_pV5bnlu77GIQXc9qPa7W9otn1aFr/view?usp=drivesdk
My vyper leaks constantly out of the nozzle when it's heated, is that normal? I just got it and feel like smashing it already lol.
The volcano nozzles can do that they have a ton of melted material in them so if you don't retract enough at the end of a print the next time it heats up it can ooze a bit. It's a pain when you level and get the hairs all over the bed
@@studiozombie3d ah ok mate, thank you. I assume they just supposed to leak when they heat then, The thing I was worried the most about though was the nozzle scraped against the print bed when it started printing even after I leveled it. Did I do something wrong? I just got the thing and afraid of destroying it. Thanks for the response btw, your profiles I use on it now are fantastic.
@@reddragon4482 some units need to offset to be raised a touch but once you get it set you should be good
@@studiozombie3d ok, thanks man.
hey there! whats the difference between Zombi V2.8 vs. Zombie Vyper V2.8?
They are the same one is just a rar and one a zip some people were having trouble with the archive so I had 2.
@@studiozombie3d ah okay. thanks! but maybe you can give me a tip. i followed your video and if i print with cura the nozzle slow down in the corner and der comes a huge amount of filament... so i got blobs in every corner. slicing with prusa works. i think i made some wrong setting but cant find my mistake... :(
@@denisclaus569 check your maximum resolution setting under mesh fixes it should be 0.5, 0.5 and 0.025 any trouble fire me a message on my Facebook or studiozombie3d@gmail.com
When I am in pronterface I can’t see the m900 linear advance line
M900 is only enabled on custom firmware. The stock firmware dosent have it enabled I have custom firmware available for the vyper drive.google.com/file/d/1fIU_pV5bnlu77GIQXc9qPa7W9otn1aFr/view?usp=drivesdk
Oh, thanks! Even with the other control changes my printer was working awesome. 😎
Why does my linear advance only print out 0, .5, and 1? There are a total of 6 lines but only 3 numbers and it looks not at all like yours.
The part I had on the video was a dialed in one. Try doing the linear test but on thw page change the printer settings and leave the linear section stock with no changes you should get more lines
Linear Advance not printing. Pronterface sayes M900 is an unknown command. I think I need that. Firmware version is 2.4.5
Yes you need to have custom firmware with linear advance enabled. drive.google.com/file/d/1fIU_pV5bnlu77GIQXc9qPa7W9otn1aFr/view?usp=drivesdk
Give this one a try linear advance is enabled,junction devieation and a few other fixes
@@studiozombie3d Thank you very much. Do you have the cura settings for 5.0 yet? Thank you very much for your time
Sorry again. do you also have custom Start and End G-codes for Vyper? I saw your listing but Vyper and Kobra seem to in the same folder, are the settings for the Kobra and Vyper interchangeable?
My vyper won't load to prontorface. I have stock firmware do I need yours?
If it won't connect you may need the USB driver or check the baud rate and it should connect
@@studiozombie3d ill try each baud rate my pc said it was connecetd
@@studiozombie3d nothing i do will connect this printer to my computer
@@studiozombie3d so I'm able to print via USB from cura to my vyper but Prontofsce won't connect maybe I should reinstall?
@@mikek2824 close cura when running pronterface cira interferes with the connection
Do you have a cura profile in an 8 nozzle for the calibration cube?
The profile I have posted should work. With a .8 nozzle you will need to tune retraction a bit but the rest of the profile should be ok just change nozzle size in machine settings and make sure linew idth is all .8