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Man that's awesome, so glad you managed to get some actual data on this! Please keep at it!

Thank you so much!

Or just oause it....

Perhaps a dimmer for the second slot? That is, if you haven't found an alternative already.

That's really interesting and helpful

thanks. help me a lot!

How is this printer holding up? I am thinking of getting something like this. I am unable to print large parts with my Prusa mk4 . I am thinking a print mill should be my next printer, or the creality ender K3 V3

Hi on what app did you design these on

Random is very great if you know how to mess with your settings properly and have good firmware

Thanks for the tutorial fix my issue

that takes longer than 1 minute to do irl 😭

I hate replacing filiment in the ender 3 v2 because the filiment never wants to go in the small hole in the intruder but what you could do instead is put a pause using the slicer which would stop it at the end of the layer

I keep getting small holes when slicing the model

Amazing video! But i wanted to know Why did you not measure the part with the bowden tube? You onlt considred the filament outisde the bowden tube

A intenção era silenciar e encheu de bujinganga ...

I do have one note on this video regarding the resolution. The resolution should be in alignment with your layerheight. If you are printing at a .2mm layer height, you won't see an appreciable difference at any resolution set lower than that. Basically if you set the resolution to .05mm on the site, but you are printing at .12mm you are going to end up with an end result equivalent to if you chose .12mm on the lithophane site. If you want to see the benefits of setting it to .05mm then you need to use a .2mm nozzle and set the layer height to .05mm. I know that most people use a .4 mm nozzle, but it makes sense to call that out in your video where that resolution comes from, and how you would be able to work within that resolution and get a better image, by potentially using a smaller nozzle and switching to an equivalent layer height.

I spent hours trying to figure this out. Watched this video and fixed it in 30 seconds. THANK YOU!

thanks it worked

Brilliant! Thank you so much! Worked perfectly.

Went from not knowing a thing to being confident in trying these. Great vid man.

Can you maybe showcase my new flexi bear model or just let it stand in the background the model is from cults3d and flexi4u is my name

Hey dude, Bro, weighing down that hot end with a bunch of stuff is not going to help matters either LMAO You got that poor machine all wrapped up LOL. Well I guess you are doing you. It does look cool I just have reservations on your color choices. Thx for posting it was helpful

Curious if you ever dealt with layer shifting on the Creality CR-30

PEI sheet and cable drag chains are the only worthy upgrades, adding the heavy full size nema motor onto the moving gantry is pointless and a huge disadvantage to print speed and ringing/ghosting.

i love you

you really covered every question I had with this technique, I expecially appreciate you taking the time and effort to print out examples for every case to show the difference in real prints. Saved me a lot of trial runs!

Pause it bruh

1.13

Thank you for your thorough explanation of why it fixes it and how to fix it. Hopefully you get a notification for this and have a good day

If you need high temperature resistant tape, you need to use Polyimide tape, I think.

Straight forward and to the point. Saved me hours of research, thank you so much!

Fun fact it also makes your print get stronger 💪 😉

lol, amazing video xD

Yeah cool.👍.that’s what I need. Can’t find any vid showing heatbreak temp. This could probably let us know how much we could push the hotend so the heatbreak designS really can retain the filament solid state so the extruder works well. Thanks for sharing ❤

Wouldn’t you want to extrude 120 since you measured 120? Or no

Interesting.. not sure about the standoffs or running the fan at 17v but I'd love to see how using my redesigned PSU cover plate with Dual Noctua's compares in sound and temp to your mods. See Thingiverse thing:5190571

Just ordered mine upgrade today. So lets see hoe it goes in couple of days

Are you using the stock creality control software? How fast are you able to accurately print PLA with this setup?

When is part 5 coming out?

Awesome! But where does 694 come from? Sounds like a constant of some kind, but I don't recognize it. My Ender 3v2 started off with a value of 132 in the UI.

had an issue.. googled issue, watched this video, issue gone forever!

My e value is much higher then stock for some reason so do I go off stock or the e value currently?

Yes I'm thinking about it, but I'm curious your kit didn't require a connection to the main board?

Great video!! I am going to try this tonight!!

thanks a lot for the guide, question here, is there any up/downside if I print my litho facing the X or Y axis? I read somewhere it should be printed facing the Y axis, but not sure why.

Very much appreciated, finally an answer to a real problem I have had. Thank you!

Hi, thanks for the tutorial, having problems getting full support, what settings do I need to change to get the front and back full support

People nowadays think you can break records with this electric trash but nothing beats a good old combustion engine printer.

You have an ABL system, why don't you use M34 for DualZ leveling as it produces the best results

This is an awesome explanation of printing lithophanes. thanks for sharing your tips. just a question. where do you get the light boxes from lol?