5 Mid Level Upgrades for the Ender 3 V2 (Part 3)

แชร์
ฝัง
  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
  • Stage 3 on the journey of upgrading the Ender 3 V2 into an almost unrecognizable printer! If you
    enjoyed the video and content be sure to subscribe! If you haven't already,
    check out part 1 here:
    • 5 Easy Upgrades for yo...
    and part 2 here:
    • Nearly SILENT mods for...
    X-Stop Upgrade:
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:515...
    Upgrade 1: Cable chains
    Cable Chains by Johnniewhiskey
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
    Bottom mounting bracket by Borszczuk
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:464...
    Extruder mounting bracket by antibimmer
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:472...
    Upgrade 2: Direct Drive Conversion
    Direct Drive Mounting plate by Hongmonster
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:478...
    Upgrade 3: Top Roller Spool Feeder
    Top Roller Spool Feeder by Desktop Inventions
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:523...
    Upgrade 4: LED Light Bar
    Switch Cover by Desktop Inventions
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:523...
    12V LED Lights
    amzn.to/3m69wpx
    24V LED Lights
    amzn.to/3nLT91P
    DC buck converter
    amzn.to/434AZZg
    Light Switch
    amzn.to/3K6j1wO
    Upgrade 5: Magnetic PEI Sheet
    PEI Sheet from BIQU
    www.biqu.equipment/products/3...
    PEI sheet same as in the video
    www.alibaba.com/product-detai...
    Bonus Upgrade: Tool holder
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:387...
    Follow me on twitter!
    / dtopinventions
    Did this video help you out? Learn something new? Or just plain enjoyed it?
    If so, please consider helping to support me to continue to expand my creator potential and bring
    more exciting and valuable content to you!
    Paypal Tip Jar:
    paypal.me/ashtonflowersjacks
    #Desktopinventions
    #CreatorAtHeart
    #3DPrinting
    0:00 Intro
    0:52 Changes since the last video
    2:05 Cable chains 1
    5:12 Direct drive
    7:01 Cable Chains 2
    7:50 Top Spool Holder
    8:58 Overhead light
    11:34 PEI Sheet
    13:14 Tool Holder
  • วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี

ความคิดเห็น • 93

  • @AdrianoTassini
    @AdrianoTassini 7 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    What about the extra weight of the direct drive? Why not upgrade with a secondary z-axis?

  • @johnvodopija1743
    @johnvodopija1743 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    You have a very tidy setup. Nice work and thanks for sharing the models for each part. The tool holder is my favourite. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺

  • @mpwsh
    @mpwsh 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Awesome upgrades and video. Will be adding some of them on my ender3 as well. Thank you for sharing!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the support enjoy your modding!

  • @NoNameAvailable23
    @NoNameAvailable23 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have been tossing up on what to do about the noise on the ender 3, your video on the silent mods was totally inspirational. Can’t wait to see what you do next!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it! I’m working on a magnetically attaching blower shroud now. That video should be ready soon!

  • @russellrv
    @russellrv ปีที่แล้ว +7

    For LED lights I used the same method however I fed it from one side through the top and down the other side. I used 5mm led strips with power already connected (from local hardware shop) to go to a power board, so I can turn them off when I don't need it. The led strips were sealed so no worries about them connecting to the frame. I also use the Creality enclosure which has a reflective interior so the whole printer gets illuminated.

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว

      Nice idea to add the side illumination as well!

  • @Gametime05577
    @Gametime05577 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Thanks for makig this awesome video

  • @jsnpressley
    @jsnpressley 2 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    For the extra switch opening on the front, maybe you could move your power switch from the rear to the front. I did it for mine, and it's so much easier to just have the switch right in front of you as opposed to reaching all the way to the back. Just an idea. Your machine is looking great, can't wait to see what else you do to it.

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Good suggestion! That would be much more convenient! Although I may want to make the power switch larger or a different color so I don’t accidentally turn off the printer!

    • @sail4life
      @sail4life ปีที่แล้ว

      @@DesktopInventions you could add a switch arm cover...

  • @MrPashto96
    @MrPashto96 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Just a quick heads up regarding that tool holder. If you try to print something tall, your Z-axis rollers will contact the scraper. The other tools should be fine but I'd suggest moving the scraper somewhere else

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yea that’s a good point I don’t usually print that tall of objects but will need to take that out if I do!

  • @DuchessOlivia
    @DuchessOlivia 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for the video. I wish I could found the spool holder you made with bearings.

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes I’ve got a redesign of that spool holder with bearings and some over improvements on my future design list. I’ll let you know when it’s done

  • @williamwiese9963
    @williamwiese9963 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well done! Very creative. Great video

  • @3dprintingtoday
    @3dprintingtoday ปีที่แล้ว +1

    after this set of vids you earned a new sub

  • @thebikeracer
    @thebikeracer 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I was #1000!! Congrats. I know how much work it takes to get there/here!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks so much! It has taken a lot of work and feels good to finally reach the milestone!

  • @jstro-hobbytech
    @jstro-hobbytech 2 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Awesome man. I love how creality owners make our printers our own. You never see the prusa owners do that

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Agreed, I didn’t really know it at the time, but now that’s one of my favorite reasons for getting an Ender printer!

    • @sebadg5702
      @sebadg5702 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      yeah, but most prusa owners dont do it because it is a pretty complete system with "ready, out of the box" mindset

    • @jstro-hobbytech
      @jstro-hobbytech 2 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@sebadg5702 ready to be put together unless you wanna pay in my country almost 400 extra lol

  • @red_m8624
    @red_m8624 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have an tuned cr 10 s5 with a new mainboard and a bad direct extruder with a redrex duel Gear extruder and I want to have cable chains and a better spool Holder and this is perfect, it helped me very mucht. Thanks. I´m not so good in writing english.

  • @coloradotesla
    @coloradotesla 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    When is the video on the fan grill bltouch adapter coming. I need that ASAP!

  • @theadventuresofzerotomillions
    @theadventuresofzerotomillions 16 วันที่ผ่านมา

    Perhaps a dimmer for the second slot? That is, if you haven't found an alternative already.

  • @jakewill8702
    @jakewill8702 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey just Wandering, Do you recommend the extruder head that you have? I need to change mine from the stock one but there is so many! (btw love your videos!!!!)

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      If you mean the printing head where the fans mount to yes I really like it and recommend it, you will have to do some extra wiring work for dual fans and there was some interference on the back with a bolt that I had to adjust with a soldering iron. Other than that it’s been great.
      If you mean mounting the extruder motor above the printing head I’m on the fence on this one. There hasn’t been much performance benefit I’ve noticed other than being able to print flexible material.
      Thanks for the support! I’m just finishing a video on a massive printing head upgrade with a dragonfly hotend and orbiter extruder I hope to release this weekend. It’s been a real challenge to far 😝

    • @jakewill8702
      @jakewill8702 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DesktopInventions Wow man what a response! I'm still learning so i was talking about the first option you talked about.
      After what you said i think I will do this upgrade, It seems like a perfect practicing thing with the wiring and stuff. Im bout to order the noctua fans and gonna upgrade this bad boy. Are there any tutorials for wiring the dual fans? or can i just follow your video?
      Keep up the channel, we need someone like you!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Right on! I’d say go for it! You can follow my video, although I did use a DC converter for the 2 fans in the quiet fan upgrade video. Since then I have removed it and hooked the 2 fans in series 12+12 to make 24V. For the front fan for the hot end you will need to add a dc converter though. One tip I would say is make sure your printer is turned off when your handling the bare fan wires. I accidentally shorted 2 of the fan wires on mine and ended up frying the main board! Anyways happy modding let me know if you have more questions 😃

  • @makedaevilmage
    @makedaevilmage 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I just changed to a direct drive setup ... but mine is different. Looking for a new calbe management setup ...

  • @mouserr
    @mouserr ปีที่แล้ว

    just a heads up, the thread on the bolts running through the spool roller will eat through the plastic and your spool *_will_* come crashing down at some random point in the future

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for the heads up. I just double checked this, the way I have it mounted the bolts do not move relative to the mounting brackets so there’s so friction there. But the wheels do spin on the bolts so those would wear out over time. Mine have a long way to go yet though 😃 thanks for the comment!

  • @exploringgames948
    @exploringgames948 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey there! So I have a problem with the chains... I printed out all the chains and anchor points for them, everything is fine but the part from the bowden to the print head doesn't work it's like I don't have a long enough cable braid to put it in the 90 bend from the motor to the print head if i go all the way up the Z axis (i can only go maybe halfway up)? did you extend your braid is mine too short somehow, did I do something wrong?
    Any advice would be helpful, thank you!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The length from the Bowden tube to the print head shouldn’t change if your Z axis is low or very high, maybe you mean the length from the base of the printer to the extruder mount? In either case, yes I ended up printing extra links.

    • @exploringgames948
      @exploringgames948 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Desktop Inventions sorry my explanation mightve been a bit all over the place lol...
      I mean the cable harness itself isn't long enough to go from the base, to the 90° bend on the old bowden, then to the print head( if i go above half the Z axis) if that makes sense?
      It just seems like your harness it way longer than mine which is odd, maybe I have a snag in the cable somewhere causing it to be so short...

  • @mynameismynameis666
    @mynameismynameis666 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    i would mod the following list for immediate improvement of your printers capabilities and printing ranges:
    1: bimetall heatbreak, capricorn tubing, hardened steel/tungsten carbide nozzle,
    2: dual z-axis+ stabilizer bars (dual z-axis makes anti-backlash-nuts and most bed mounting hacks pretty redundant)
    3: silent board (ender3/pro) bl-touch... because....
    4. direct drive/filament runout sensor
    5. heater block/extruder exchange - (usually requires modding of the parts cooling fan and housing armature)

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Good suggestions! I’ve got a few of these in process already :D I think the Ender 3V2 already comes with the silent board and thermal runaway sensor correct?

    • @mynameismynameis666
      @mynameismynameis666 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DesktopInventions i think i got mixed up there, yes you are right, this i think was an issue years ago with earlier version. and since i have a ender3 pro, the silent part wasn't yet part of the deal... ...edited out

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      No problem thanks for the suggestions!

  • @MrNoysip
    @MrNoysip 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome machine u have there, would you mind sharing your slicer profile? :D

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I use some pretty standard settings I think. 60C bed temp 190-200c nozzle 80-100mm/s speed 20% infill normally. Sometimes adjust the support angles or support types based on the print I’m doing. If you have questions on any specific settings I can share on those as well :D

  • @ekrem06
    @ekrem06 ปีที่แล้ว

    Bowden tubes killin me!! I'm bored, it's always on the move.. I bought a holder with a bracelet, but this time the filament flows slowly. I hope dd works or I'm going to throw the printer out the window.

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The best Bowden tube is no Bowden tube 😃 direct drive!

  • @JackAcoke
    @JackAcoke 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi, the chain clips shown on your printer are not the chain clips linked in the description, or am I wrong?
    At least the clip’s from JW are looking different to me. I just saying this because I’m already searching for a while for the shown in your video 😁
    Anyway you have done some nice upgrades. I changed the cable routing on mine too an this look be far better now 😃

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the comment Jack, they are the ones from JW’s page but he has 2 versions listed. The ones shown in the picture (red) I believe are V2 which only bend in 1 direction and he has a V3 that can bend in both directions which is what I printed. Hopefully this clears that up.
      Yea I had to search around awhile and piece together several different cable chain parts to reach this solution, it’s definitely more involved of a process than I expected! I hope your build goes well!

  • @zsoltrobert4876
    @zsoltrobert4876 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    what kind of hot end cover is that? :o

  • @grantv2313
    @grantv2313 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice stuff but why have you not upgraded the computer to Jyers firmware? You’re missing out on far more functionality than stock. There’s a great how to vid out there. Have to update motherboard and the handheld separately with the mini sd and two separate files. Well worth it.

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Thanks for the suggestion! I just did that a couple weeks ago and in my BLTouch video. Such a great improvement!

  • @russellmendenhall4259
    @russellmendenhall4259 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Armadillo lizard lol... The texture instead of the layer lines looks so much better though!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yea the armadillo lizard was my first articulated print! Pretty fun!

  • @gerriebossert8933
    @gerriebossert8933 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Is weight not pulling the gantry down if you use that direct drive conversion?

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The direct drive does make the extruder and gantry heavier but it’s not enough to pull the gantry down when the printer is turned off. Also I haven’t noticed any effects while the printer is printing either

  • @paranoidpanzerpenguin5262
    @paranoidpanzerpenguin5262 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do those dual noctuas provide decent enough cooling?

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes with this cooler design they’ve worked great for me. Noctua 4010s work as well but 4020s are slightly better.

  • @realmadridsi
    @realmadridsi 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Could you do some new sound level measurements with the cable chain? I've done pretty much the same upgrades you did silencing my Ender 3 v2 with Noctua fans and I also used the same cable chain as you. I however removed them again because it was very loud when printing. Kind of mitigating silencing the printer in the first place. Looks cool though!

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I’ll take a look at that. I didn’t notice too much sound coming from my cable chain. Are your cables chains rubbing on each other maybe?

  • @Guitaro.o
    @Guitaro.o ปีที่แล้ว

    is those updates can be used on Creality Ender-3 S1 ?

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I believe so. Not 100% sure on the printing head if it fits on the Ender 3 S1. The cable chains might have a different variation out there as well for the S1.

  • @worshaw
    @worshaw ปีที่แล้ว

    I assume you are printing the extruder head parts out of abs right? How are you doing that without an enclosure? Pla would surely fail due to the heat, right?

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว

      So far just PLA, I haven’t had issues yet with anything melting/warping

  • @Banjoba
    @Banjoba 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is a good video.

  • @kihgu
    @kihgu 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    how do i stop it from baning into the sides when i have changed to direct drive

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I’m not sure which part your having bang into the sides. You might have to look at adjusting your X stop switch on your gantry. I

  • @PERSISTENTxMF
    @PERSISTENTxMF ปีที่แล้ว

    Second one, dimmer switch?

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว

      Good Idea, maybe a resistance slider for dimming the LEDs.

  • @senpaisimon_
    @senpaisimon_ 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Either im blind or the z-stop upgrade is not listed in the description

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Sorry about that I added it to the description now.

    • @senpaisimon_
      @senpaisimon_ 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@DesktopInventions thank you very much!

  • @DavidSmith-ex6bg
    @DavidSmith-ex6bg 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    why would you go to the trouble of add more cooling fans .Then cover them and restrict the air flow more than 50% on each fan , does not make any cense to do that ??????

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      You mean the honeycomb fan guards or the fan outlets? I have been meaning to redesign those fan covers they are a bit restrictive, but I don’t want to go cover less because if I accidentally stick a finger in there and break a fan they’re not cheap to replace haha

  • @lucasconroy7170
    @lucasconroy7170 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    When will part 4 be out?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • @evlsc400
    @evlsc400 หลายเดือนก่อน

    PEI sheet and cable drag chains are the only worthy upgrades, adding the heavy full size nema motor onto the moving gantry is pointless and a huge disadvantage to print speed and ringing/ghosting.

  • @jklong03
    @jklong03 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Man after my own heart! Who wants "stock" anything? 🤷‍♂ Liked, subbed and rang your bell!✔ Thanks (ps. great voice, maybe slow down speech rate just a little😉)

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for the feedback! I’ll keep that in mind for the next video :D

  • @joosepvorno7938
    @joosepvorno7938 ปีที่แล้ว

    Sadly that upgrade does not support CR Touch :( I would have loved, if that would have CR Touch avalible as well :)

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      yea, one you go to CRTouch/BLTouch you never go back! I've made some more recent printing heads on my later videos that support be probes 👍

  • @3dprintingtoday
    @3dprintingtoday ปีที่แล้ว +1

    use another switch for a raspeberry pi

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Interesting, but would you need to turn the raspberry pi off when the printer is still on?

  • @alexivanov6112
    @alexivanov6112 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ты КРУТ!!!🤠

  • @Tht1guy63
    @Tht1guy63 ปีที่แล้ว

    Tsk tsk. Still using the plastic extruder

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, I have since upgraded, I'm lucky that one never broke on me. I know a lot of people who had the stock Ender 3 extruder lever break off.

  • @dangerous8333
    @dangerous8333 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    More like mods. Not so much upgrades since none of these will honestly change what the main purpose of the machine does.
    I certainly wouldn't call these stage 3 upgrades either. Stage 3 would be like changing the motherboard or adding Arduino or something. Think of a stage 3 car. What you're doing here is not even stage 1 honestly. More like going on eBay buying stickers and decals for your car and installing a switch for some LED lights.
    Spring steel is not an upgrade over glass. People that have issues with glass just don't know how to dial in their settings. Glass is awesome. No glue, nothing, just isopropyl after 20+ prints. I'm about to change my new Ender S1 to a glass bed.
    Edit:
    By the way, how heavy is that monstrosity you have bolted to the print head on that poor single z-axis printer? It looks heavier than the microswiss DD and even that is a pig. I can make dimensionally passable prototypes on my stock E3V2 printhead at 150 mm/s because it's light, I only have an all metal extruder and hot end. And I print all materials from TPU to abs, asa.
    Diminishing returns make people waste time and money.

    • @DesktopInventions
      @DesktopInventions  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the comment, more mods and upgrades in the future. More in depth ones as well like lighter weight extruder and different hot ends! If you have any suggestions for upgrades in the future that would be great as well!