For LED lights I used the same method however I fed it from one side through the top and down the other side. I used 5mm led strips with power already connected (from local hardware shop) to go to a power board, so I can turn them off when I don't need it. The led strips were sealed so no worries about them connecting to the frame. I also use the Creality enclosure which has a reflective interior so the whole printer gets illuminated.
For the extra switch opening on the front, maybe you could move your power switch from the rear to the front. I did it for mine, and it's so much easier to just have the switch right in front of you as opposed to reaching all the way to the back. Just an idea. Your machine is looking great, can't wait to see what else you do to it.
Good suggestion! That would be much more convenient! Although I may want to make the power switch larger or a different color so I don’t accidentally turn off the printer!
Just a quick heads up regarding that tool holder. If you try to print something tall, your Z-axis rollers will contact the scraper. The other tools should be fine but I'd suggest moving the scraper somewhere else
I have been tossing up on what to do about the noise on the ender 3, your video on the silent mods was totally inspirational. Can’t wait to see what you do next!
i would mod the following list for immediate improvement of your printers capabilities and printing ranges: 1: bimetall heatbreak, capricorn tubing, hardened steel/tungsten carbide nozzle, 2: dual z-axis+ stabilizer bars (dual z-axis makes anti-backlash-nuts and most bed mounting hacks pretty redundant) 3: silent board (ender3/pro) bl-touch... because.... 4. direct drive/filament runout sensor 5. heater block/extruder exchange - (usually requires modding of the parts cooling fan and housing armature)
Good suggestions! I’ve got a few of these in process already :D I think the Ender 3V2 already comes with the silent board and thermal runaway sensor correct?
@@DesktopInventions i think i got mixed up there, yes you are right, this i think was an issue years ago with earlier version. and since i have a ender3 pro, the silent part wasn't yet part of the deal... ...edited out
just a heads up, the thread on the bolts running through the spool roller will eat through the plastic and your spool *_will_* come crashing down at some random point in the future
Thanks for the heads up. I just double checked this, the way I have it mounted the bolts do not move relative to the mounting brackets so there’s so friction there. But the wheels do spin on the bolts so those would wear out over time. Mine have a long way to go yet though 😃 thanks for the comment!
I have an tuned cr 10 s5 with a new mainboard and a bad direct extruder with a redrex duel Gear extruder and I want to have cable chains and a better spool Holder and this is perfect, it helped me very mucht. Thanks. I´m not so good in writing english.
I assume you are printing the extruder head parts out of abs right? How are you doing that without an enclosure? Pla would surely fail due to the heat, right?
Bowden tubes killin me!! I'm bored, it's always on the move.. I bought a holder with a bracelet, but this time the filament flows slowly. I hope dd works or I'm going to throw the printer out the window.
PEI sheet and cable drag chains are the only worthy upgrades, adding the heavy full size nema motor onto the moving gantry is pointless and a huge disadvantage to print speed and ringing/ghosting.
Man after my own heart! Who wants "stock" anything? 🤷♂ Liked, subbed and rang your bell!✔ Thanks (ps. great voice, maybe slow down speech rate just a little😉)
I believe so. Not 100% sure on the printing head if it fits on the Ender 3 S1. The cable chains might have a different variation out there as well for the S1.
I use some pretty standard settings I think. 60C bed temp 190-200c nozzle 80-100mm/s speed 20% infill normally. Sometimes adjust the support angles or support types based on the print I’m doing. If you have questions on any specific settings I can share on those as well :D
Hey just Wandering, Do you recommend the extruder head that you have? I need to change mine from the stock one but there is so many! (btw love your videos!!!!)
If you mean the printing head where the fans mount to yes I really like it and recommend it, you will have to do some extra wiring work for dual fans and there was some interference on the back with a bolt that I had to adjust with a soldering iron. Other than that it’s been great. If you mean mounting the extruder motor above the printing head I’m on the fence on this one. There hasn’t been much performance benefit I’ve noticed other than being able to print flexible material. Thanks for the support! I’m just finishing a video on a massive printing head upgrade with a dragonfly hotend and orbiter extruder I hope to release this weekend. It’s been a real challenge to far 😝
@@DesktopInventions Wow man what a response! I'm still learning so i was talking about the first option you talked about. After what you said i think I will do this upgrade, It seems like a perfect practicing thing with the wiring and stuff. Im bout to order the noctua fans and gonna upgrade this bad boy. Are there any tutorials for wiring the dual fans? or can i just follow your video? Keep up the channel, we need someone like you!
Right on! I’d say go for it! You can follow my video, although I did use a DC converter for the 2 fans in the quiet fan upgrade video. Since then I have removed it and hooked the 2 fans in series 12+12 to make 24V. For the front fan for the hot end you will need to add a dc converter though. One tip I would say is make sure your printer is turned off when your handling the bare fan wires. I accidentally shorted 2 of the fan wires on mine and ended up frying the main board! Anyways happy modding let me know if you have more questions 😃
Hey there! So I have a problem with the chains... I printed out all the chains and anchor points for them, everything is fine but the part from the bowden to the print head doesn't work it's like I don't have a long enough cable braid to put it in the 90 bend from the motor to the print head if i go all the way up the Z axis (i can only go maybe halfway up)? did you extend your braid is mine too short somehow, did I do something wrong? Any advice would be helpful, thank you!
The length from the Bowden tube to the print head shouldn’t change if your Z axis is low or very high, maybe you mean the length from the base of the printer to the extruder mount? In either case, yes I ended up printing extra links.
@Desktop Inventions sorry my explanation mightve been a bit all over the place lol... I mean the cable harness itself isn't long enough to go from the base, to the 90° bend on the old bowden, then to the print head( if i go above half the Z axis) if that makes sense? It just seems like your harness it way longer than mine which is odd, maybe I have a snag in the cable somewhere causing it to be so short...
The direct drive does make the extruder and gantry heavier but it’s not enough to pull the gantry down when the printer is turned off. Also I haven’t noticed any effects while the printer is printing either
why would you go to the trouble of add more cooling fans .Then cover them and restrict the air flow more than 50% on each fan , does not make any cense to do that ??????
You mean the honeycomb fan guards or the fan outlets? I have been meaning to redesign those fan covers they are a bit restrictive, but I don’t want to go cover less because if I accidentally stick a finger in there and break a fan they’re not cheap to replace haha
Nice stuff but why have you not upgraded the computer to Jyers firmware? You’re missing out on far more functionality than stock. There’s a great how to vid out there. Have to update motherboard and the handheld separately with the mini sd and two separate files. Well worth it.
Hi, the chain clips shown on your printer are not the chain clips linked in the description, or am I wrong? At least the clip’s from JW are looking different to me. I just saying this because I’m already searching for a while for the shown in your video 😁 Anyway you have done some nice upgrades. I changed the cable routing on mine too an this look be far better now 😃
Thanks for the comment Jack, they are the ones from JW’s page but he has 2 versions listed. The ones shown in the picture (red) I believe are V2 which only bend in 1 direction and he has a V3 that can bend in both directions which is what I printed. Hopefully this clears that up. Yea I had to search around awhile and piece together several different cable chain parts to reach this solution, it’s definitely more involved of a process than I expected! I hope your build goes well!
Could you do some new sound level measurements with the cable chain? I've done pretty much the same upgrades you did silencing my Ender 3 v2 with Noctua fans and I also used the same cable chain as you. I however removed them again because it was very loud when printing. Kind of mitigating silencing the printer in the first place. Looks cool though!
More like mods. Not so much upgrades since none of these will honestly change what the main purpose of the machine does. I certainly wouldn't call these stage 3 upgrades either. Stage 3 would be like changing the motherboard or adding Arduino or something. Think of a stage 3 car. What you're doing here is not even stage 1 honestly. More like going on eBay buying stickers and decals for your car and installing a switch for some LED lights. Spring steel is not an upgrade over glass. People that have issues with glass just don't know how to dial in their settings. Glass is awesome. No glue, nothing, just isopropyl after 20+ prints. I'm about to change my new Ender S1 to a glass bed. Edit: By the way, how heavy is that monstrosity you have bolted to the print head on that poor single z-axis printer? It looks heavier than the microswiss DD and even that is a pig. I can make dimensionally passable prototypes on my stock E3V2 printhead at 150 mm/s because it's light, I only have an all metal extruder and hot end. And I print all materials from TPU to abs, asa. Diminishing returns make people waste time and money.
Thanks for the comment, more mods and upgrades in the future. More in depth ones as well like lighter weight extruder and different hot ends! If you have any suggestions for upgrades in the future that would be great as well!
For LED lights I used the same method however I fed it from one side through the top and down the other side. I used 5mm led strips with power already connected (from local hardware shop) to go to a power board, so I can turn them off when I don't need it. The led strips were sealed so no worries about them connecting to the frame. I also use the Creality enclosure which has a reflective interior so the whole printer gets illuminated.
Nice idea to add the side illumination as well!
You have a very tidy setup. Nice work and thanks for sharing the models for each part. The tool holder is my favourite. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
Thanks for makig this awesome video
Awesome upgrades and video. Will be adding some of them on my ender3 as well. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the support enjoy your modding!
For the extra switch opening on the front, maybe you could move your power switch from the rear to the front. I did it for mine, and it's so much easier to just have the switch right in front of you as opposed to reaching all the way to the back. Just an idea. Your machine is looking great, can't wait to see what else you do to it.
Good suggestion! That would be much more convenient! Although I may want to make the power switch larger or a different color so I don’t accidentally turn off the printer!
@@DesktopInventions you could add a switch arm cover...
Just a quick heads up regarding that tool holder. If you try to print something tall, your Z-axis rollers will contact the scraper. The other tools should be fine but I'd suggest moving the scraper somewhere else
Yea that’s a good point I don’t usually print that tall of objects but will need to take that out if I do!
after this set of vids you earned a new sub
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!
I was #1000!! Congrats. I know how much work it takes to get there/here!
Thanks so much! It has taken a lot of work and feels good to finally reach the milestone!
I have been tossing up on what to do about the noise on the ender 3, your video on the silent mods was totally inspirational. Can’t wait to see what you do next!
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it! I’m working on a magnetically attaching blower shroud now. That video should be ready soon!
Awesome man. I love how creality owners make our printers our own. You never see the prusa owners do that
Agreed, I didn’t really know it at the time, but now that’s one of my favorite reasons for getting an Ender printer!
yeah, but most prusa owners dont do it because it is a pretty complete system with "ready, out of the box" mindset
@@sebadg5702 ready to be put together unless you wanna pay in my country almost 400 extra lol
What about the extra weight of the direct drive? Why not upgrade with a secondary z-axis?
i would mod the following list for immediate improvement of your printers capabilities and printing ranges:
1: bimetall heatbreak, capricorn tubing, hardened steel/tungsten carbide nozzle,
2: dual z-axis+ stabilizer bars (dual z-axis makes anti-backlash-nuts and most bed mounting hacks pretty redundant)
3: silent board (ender3/pro) bl-touch... because....
4. direct drive/filament runout sensor
5. heater block/extruder exchange - (usually requires modding of the parts cooling fan and housing armature)
Good suggestions! I’ve got a few of these in process already :D I think the Ender 3V2 already comes with the silent board and thermal runaway sensor correct?
@@DesktopInventions i think i got mixed up there, yes you are right, this i think was an issue years ago with earlier version. and since i have a ender3 pro, the silent part wasn't yet part of the deal... ...edited out
No problem thanks for the suggestions!
Well done! Very creative. Great video
Thanks for the support 😄
just a heads up, the thread on the bolts running through the spool roller will eat through the plastic and your spool *_will_* come crashing down at some random point in the future
Thanks for the heads up. I just double checked this, the way I have it mounted the bolts do not move relative to the mounting brackets so there’s so friction there. But the wheels do spin on the bolts so those would wear out over time. Mine have a long way to go yet though 😃 thanks for the comment!
Perhaps a dimmer for the second slot? That is, if you haven't found an alternative already.
I have an tuned cr 10 s5 with a new mainboard and a bad direct extruder with a redrex duel Gear extruder and I want to have cable chains and a better spool Holder and this is perfect, it helped me very mucht. Thanks. I´m not so good in writing english.
You’re welcome I’m glad it could help!
I just changed to a direct drive setup ... but mine is different. Looking for a new calbe management setup ...
Armadillo lizard lol... The texture instead of the layer lines looks so much better though!
Yea the armadillo lizard was my first articulated print! Pretty fun!
When is the video on the fan grill bltouch adapter coming. I need that ASAP!
Alright I’m on it!
@@DesktopInventions thanks!
I assume you are printing the extruder head parts out of abs right? How are you doing that without an enclosure? Pla would surely fail due to the heat, right?
So far just PLA, I haven’t had issues yet with anything melting/warping
Bowden tubes killin me!! I'm bored, it's always on the move.. I bought a holder with a bracelet, but this time the filament flows slowly. I hope dd works or I'm going to throw the printer out the window.
The best Bowden tube is no Bowden tube 😃 direct drive!
Thank you for the video. I wish I could found the spool holder you made with bearings.
Yes I’ve got a redesign of that spool holder with bearings and some over improvements on my future design list. I’ll let you know when it’s done
what kind of hot end cover is that? :o
PEI sheet and cable drag chains are the only worthy upgrades, adding the heavy full size nema motor onto the moving gantry is pointless and a huge disadvantage to print speed and ringing/ghosting.
Man after my own heart! Who wants "stock" anything? 🤷♂ Liked, subbed and rang your bell!✔ Thanks (ps. great voice, maybe slow down speech rate just a little😉)
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll keep that in mind for the next video :D
Second one, dimmer switch?
Good Idea, maybe a resistance slider for dimming the LEDs.
This is a good video.
Thanks for the comment :D
is those updates can be used on Creality Ender-3 S1 ?
I believe so. Not 100% sure on the printing head if it fits on the Ender 3 S1. The cable chains might have a different variation out there as well for the S1.
You didnt weigh the magnet for the bed
Awesome machine u have there, would you mind sharing your slicer profile? :D
I use some pretty standard settings I think. 60C bed temp 190-200c nozzle 80-100mm/s speed 20% infill normally. Sometimes adjust the support angles or support types based on the print I’m doing. If you have questions on any specific settings I can share on those as well :D
Hey just Wandering, Do you recommend the extruder head that you have? I need to change mine from the stock one but there is so many! (btw love your videos!!!!)
If you mean the printing head where the fans mount to yes I really like it and recommend it, you will have to do some extra wiring work for dual fans and there was some interference on the back with a bolt that I had to adjust with a soldering iron. Other than that it’s been great.
If you mean mounting the extruder motor above the printing head I’m on the fence on this one. There hasn’t been much performance benefit I’ve noticed other than being able to print flexible material.
Thanks for the support! I’m just finishing a video on a massive printing head upgrade with a dragonfly hotend and orbiter extruder I hope to release this weekend. It’s been a real challenge to far 😝
@@DesktopInventions Wow man what a response! I'm still learning so i was talking about the first option you talked about.
After what you said i think I will do this upgrade, It seems like a perfect practicing thing with the wiring and stuff. Im bout to order the noctua fans and gonna upgrade this bad boy. Are there any tutorials for wiring the dual fans? or can i just follow your video?
Keep up the channel, we need someone like you!
Right on! I’d say go for it! You can follow my video, although I did use a DC converter for the 2 fans in the quiet fan upgrade video. Since then I have removed it and hooked the 2 fans in series 12+12 to make 24V. For the front fan for the hot end you will need to add a dc converter though. One tip I would say is make sure your printer is turned off when your handling the bare fan wires. I accidentally shorted 2 of the fan wires on mine and ended up frying the main board! Anyways happy modding let me know if you have more questions 😃
Hey there! So I have a problem with the chains... I printed out all the chains and anchor points for them, everything is fine but the part from the bowden to the print head doesn't work it's like I don't have a long enough cable braid to put it in the 90 bend from the motor to the print head if i go all the way up the Z axis (i can only go maybe halfway up)? did you extend your braid is mine too short somehow, did I do something wrong?
Any advice would be helpful, thank you!
The length from the Bowden tube to the print head shouldn’t change if your Z axis is low or very high, maybe you mean the length from the base of the printer to the extruder mount? In either case, yes I ended up printing extra links.
@Desktop Inventions sorry my explanation mightve been a bit all over the place lol...
I mean the cable harness itself isn't long enough to go from the base, to the 90° bend on the old bowden, then to the print head( if i go above half the Z axis) if that makes sense?
It just seems like your harness it way longer than mine which is odd, maybe I have a snag in the cable somewhere causing it to be so short...
Is weight not pulling the gantry down if you use that direct drive conversion?
The direct drive does make the extruder and gantry heavier but it’s not enough to pull the gantry down when the printer is turned off. Also I haven’t noticed any effects while the printer is printing either
why would you go to the trouble of add more cooling fans .Then cover them and restrict the air flow more than 50% on each fan , does not make any cense to do that ??????
You mean the honeycomb fan guards or the fan outlets? I have been meaning to redesign those fan covers they are a bit restrictive, but I don’t want to go cover less because if I accidentally stick a finger in there and break a fan they’re not cheap to replace haha
Nice stuff but why have you not upgraded the computer to Jyers firmware? You’re missing out on far more functionality than stock. There’s a great how to vid out there. Have to update motherboard and the handheld separately with the mini sd and two separate files. Well worth it.
Thanks for the suggestion! I just did that a couple weeks ago and in my BLTouch video. Such a great improvement!
Do those dual noctuas provide decent enough cooling?
Yes with this cooler design they’ve worked great for me. Noctua 4010s work as well but 4020s are slightly better.
Hi, the chain clips shown on your printer are not the chain clips linked in the description, or am I wrong?
At least the clip’s from JW are looking different to me. I just saying this because I’m already searching for a while for the shown in your video 😁
Anyway you have done some nice upgrades. I changed the cable routing on mine too an this look be far better now 😃
Thanks for the comment Jack, they are the ones from JW’s page but he has 2 versions listed. The ones shown in the picture (red) I believe are V2 which only bend in 1 direction and he has a V3 that can bend in both directions which is what I printed. Hopefully this clears that up.
Yea I had to search around awhile and piece together several different cable chain parts to reach this solution, it’s definitely more involved of a process than I expected! I hope your build goes well!
use another switch for a raspeberry pi
Interesting, but would you need to turn the raspberry pi off when the printer is still on?
When will part 4 be out?????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just released it today :D
how do i stop it from baning into the sides when i have changed to direct drive
I’m not sure which part your having bang into the sides. You might have to look at adjusting your X stop switch on your gantry. I
Either im blind or the z-stop upgrade is not listed in the description
Sorry about that I added it to the description now.
@@DesktopInventions thank you very much!
Could you do some new sound level measurements with the cable chain? I've done pretty much the same upgrades you did silencing my Ender 3 v2 with Noctua fans and I also used the same cable chain as you. I however removed them again because it was very loud when printing. Kind of mitigating silencing the printer in the first place. Looks cool though!
I’ll take a look at that. I didn’t notice too much sound coming from my cable chain. Are your cables chains rubbing on each other maybe?
Sadly that upgrade does not support CR Touch :( I would have loved, if that would have CR Touch avalible as well :)
yea, one you go to CRTouch/BLTouch you never go back! I've made some more recent printing heads on my later videos that support be probes 👍
Ты КРУТ!!!🤠
Спасибо!
Tsk tsk. Still using the plastic extruder
Yes, I have since upgraded, I'm lucky that one never broke on me. I know a lot of people who had the stock Ender 3 extruder lever break off.
More like mods. Not so much upgrades since none of these will honestly change what the main purpose of the machine does.
I certainly wouldn't call these stage 3 upgrades either. Stage 3 would be like changing the motherboard or adding Arduino or something. Think of a stage 3 car. What you're doing here is not even stage 1 honestly. More like going on eBay buying stickers and decals for your car and installing a switch for some LED lights.
Spring steel is not an upgrade over glass. People that have issues with glass just don't know how to dial in their settings. Glass is awesome. No glue, nothing, just isopropyl after 20+ prints. I'm about to change my new Ender S1 to a glass bed.
Edit:
By the way, how heavy is that monstrosity you have bolted to the print head on that poor single z-axis printer? It looks heavier than the microswiss DD and even that is a pig. I can make dimensionally passable prototypes on my stock E3V2 printhead at 150 mm/s because it's light, I only have an all metal extruder and hot end. And I print all materials from TPU to abs, asa.
Diminishing returns make people waste time and money.
Thanks for the comment, more mods and upgrades in the future. More in depth ones as well like lighter weight extruder and different hot ends! If you have any suggestions for upgrades in the future that would be great as well!