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I have a hatsan QE .30 caliber, It is slow and has a low fpe. Great plinker though.

i have tn 12 the best hands down period

Very interesting video. I personally prefer the Talwar XL, be it the CTS-XHP old version, or the early releases of the GSM Cold Steel Talwar as many were produced prior to the historic " You spoke, we listened " BS Stick man came out with. Kris Stiletto has made a video of how poor quality the GSM Talwar XL's are with very poorly constructed Tri-ad lock mechanisms that have play even when supposedly fully engaged and they also stick aswel, and the fit and finish is generally poor. The serrated GSM Talwar XL I believe was the version where Kris first demonstrated these problems in a review, and he bought another, different batch, a good long gap between the purchases of the knives and both knives were lemons. I recall at the end of his video he stated he was getting in contact with GSM Cold Steel to see if they would do right by him and provide him with faultless knives? I sure hope he got them. There's an annoying design flaw with the Espada, it's particularly bad with the G10 models old or new and this flaw is exposed with the polished aluminum bolsters and black G10 occur XL model in CTS-XHP or S35VN and it's even more of a problem with the G10 scales versions, L, or the XL and the flaw/problem is because of where the Tri-ad lock disengagement depress is situated. Once you deploy the blade carefully check that it is fully deployed, or you can just trust the " Click ", it makes no difference, then hold the Espada handle in the forward position in the hammer grip and then grip the handle very tightly, you'll feel the skin and soft tissues/muscles of your fill the Tri-ad lock disengagement depression and you will feel, and may well hear a quiet " Click ", then loosen your grip and then with one hand very carefully and firnly pinch/hold the blade and with your other hand grip the handle and then apply a little pressure pulling back and forth on the blade and/or the handle and you will notice a small amount of vertical play has developed. You have to then fully disengage the Tri-ad lock and then redeploy the blade and it will deploy securely again, but you'll be able to partially disengage the Tri-ad lock again by holding the handle as mentioned before and squeezing it very tightly/strongly. I didn't mention the AUS8 versions as I can't stand AUS8 and its been years since I handled an AUS8 Espade XL or L. This partial lock disengagement doesn't occur with the Talwar XL old or new, although I've previously mentioned that the later releases of the GSM Cold Steel Talwar serrated model has been criticised for being very poorly made. My guess is that GSM have sacked many QC staff as they're expensive to employ, and also stopped having many of knives produced in the top knife making factories in Taichung Taiwan apart from possibly the Lynn Thompson special edition S35VN knife models and maybe the Espada's with polished aluminum bolsters and black G10? GSM Outdoors are destroying Cold Steel's reputation, they were never perfect when Lynn Thompson owned and managed the company but every brand GSM Outdoors touches turns to shite. Its a crying shame but the days of Lynn Thompson's Cold Steel are now long gone, and GSM Cold Steel is virtually unrecognizable as being Cold Steel, it's Cold Steel in name only. I'm not the first person to become aware of this flaw with the Espada, I did discover it before reading about how others have experienced it aswel, and I wasn't happy about it as I own six Espadas, three in CTS-XHP and three in S35VN, being a L CTS-XHP G10 handle scaled model and an XL CTS-XHP G10, and the XL in CTS-XHP with polished aluminum bolsters and black G10 handle scales, and another three are S35VN polished aluminum bolsters and black G10 scales. I prefer the Talwar XL because it's a great knife in it's own right and it doesn't have the Espada Tri-ad lock flaw. I'm a strong guy, but you don't require q herculean grip strength to involuntarily partially disengage the Espada Tri-ad lock, they just chose a really stupid place to put the damn lock disengagement. I hope that you and yours are all chipper buddy.

that blacked out knife is just magnificent aesthetically. that slim, contoured, rectangular cross section handle and all the lovely copper pins. looks a beauty to handle as well.

A nice one. Keeping the experiments, doing things differently on exact same model is what i like about making knives. This one looks interesting, blackout version of your classic. May be it will be useful to know a few things i know about working with wood: 1) wood dont like being stressed, unlike micarta or g10, it requires that the pins should be a little smaller than the holes in which they go. I find that burly wood cracks the least, because the strains go all over the place and it requires more power to split. 2) woods that have a lot of natural resin or oils dont really stabilize, because its harder for the compound to get in, even with vacuum or pressure. And besides the sharpness - it may be because 80crv2 is much softer, it gives you harder time to remove the burr and some of it may stay after sharpening, edges with no burr whatsoever feel a lot sharper. It takes a lot more honing and polishing with low pressure to deburr softer steels. Keep up!

Maybe own it first to have an opinion on it

are the woods stabilized? I think, in general, that stabilized woods are better suited for knife handles

very attractive blacked out with that arrangement of pins. notice the handle's a little more rectangular as well. perhaps you did this and it happened anyway or youve had this idea but you might have more luck letting wood acclimate to your climate and local humidity for a little while before using it on a knife. possibly sealing the end grain with something or other to slow drying and further prevent cracking as well.

How are you nuking your boots to where you have to resole every 6 months 🗿

Nice Collection. I'm wishing I would have bought the fancy Rajah. Great Video. Thank you for sharing! :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)

I carries a pair of them for 2 weeks, even while I was sleeping. I was very surprised how well they conceal and how comfortable they carry.

Definitely the diamond was worse on paper towell. My guess is it refined the apex faster and more effectively than crox, so youre seeing the effects of the emulsion having removed all the teeth the stone left behind, whereas Crox left some in place to catch the paper towel fibers

No problem fitting it in my pocket

maybe take the flower stalks and put them in some boiling water to get a sauce and then try and patina it - or soak the stalks in ethanol to get a tincture (no idea on what ratio for this use) - or soak them in vinegar and you will definitely get a patina from the vinegar, and maybe the stalk will add something? (no idea if it will get the blue you are wanting though) - or just cut a bunch of the stalks? ---- I have got some nice blues and purples from blood/meat juice from cutting cooked and raw meat

Where it is blue is the best looking. I wish you success with this project. Seems to be slow going now.

Beware of fakes on eBay and Amazon. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)

AUS 8A is tougher than AUS 10A. For a large blade that is used for self defense I would actually prefer the AUS 8

Stoo disengaging the lock man. Thats not a failure ot the lock.

I was wondering about these eBay baffles. Thanks for making this video, you saved me both money and time. I watched some of your other Hatsan .30 130 videos and see that you bought a 46gr NOE pellet mold. I also noted that you were using JSB Hades pellets for this video. Do you still have/use the NOE mold? Currently NOE don't have the 46gr molds in stock, but they do have aluminum 59gr pellet molds in stock, 2x cavity and 4x cavity. The brass 59gr molds are sold out. Wrote NOE several days ago asking about the possibilty of a future batch/run for the 46gr molds, but I haven't received a reply. I have the wood stock Carnivore 135 in .30 and I have been buying/shooting the expensive JSB .30 pellets. I'm thinking that the 59gr are too heavy for the 135's power plant, but have been entertaining the idea of increasing the gas-ram pressure to 160bar to try the 59gr pellets. I know there's a warning on the Hatsan type-2 gas-ram to not exceed 150bar. A guy on a Canadian airgun forum claims he was getting about 600fps velocity with 160bar fill and 44.75gr. Have you experimented with various gas-ram pressures?

Buying a clone right now ! What a deal

I like CS but get the clones sinc they are coming from the same place anyways and the money is probably getting to the poor people of Taiwan more likely than thru CS

12:20 your complaining they give you Larger washers on the fake Sounds like a better knife overall at this point.

During self defense I'm sure the baddy will point out these issues and make me cry. I'll tell the jury I was too poor to afford the over priced CS and I'll get less time.

7:10 clone has a cleaner back strap than the over priced cs one

4:30 "shadows"? They are kiffeent colors OMG big whoop

1) The lock didn't fail - you disengaged it using a deliberate action. I can make a Tri-AD "fail" if I try too... or any other folding knife lock. 2) Your spring is obviously defective - way too loose. I've used the crap out of my Karve and the spring never gotten ANYWHERE near this loose. Neither did the one on my Mayhem. Not really using that one a lot but training quite a bit. Defects happen. It's still a very strong lock and is way more faster/ergonomically usable than the Tri-AD.

With the shoulder holster setup you could solve the problem of it riding up in your armpit by having a similar weight on the opposite side. The X style setup suggested on here would work well but you need a square patch of material to keep the X in the center of your back. Leather would be good. As a matter of fact straps of webbing or leather would be more comfortable & stay in place better. Also another commentor suggested tying to your belt or pants & that would prevent the swing forward. BTW, showing a lot of creative solutions, good stuff.

also a shock cord attached to the sheath can keep it in place on that side as well - but you would need a hollow rivet instead of the solid rivet at the handle end

14:50 one issue - or something to keep in mind - if it is concealment as a primary concern, the knot in front can be limiting - that was why I used the x loop and the shock cord opposite the knife

9:00 a piece of shock cord under the armpit and attached to your belt or pants to keep it pulled down - plastic alligator clips or just tie it on

a large loop and just x it on your back - loop around one shoulder - x in middle of the back - loop around other shoulder - flat cord can feel a little better - size loop to fit you best and then cut it - with the x there is no large knot to poke you - you are just taking the loop circle and folding it in half so it forms an x -- used this a smaller blades not large ones

A Grande Arte - Exposure - 1991 movie - pretty good - has a sweet leather shoulder sheath - also cool story and good basic knife fighting skills - scenes from it are on here

If you want to skip to the paracord sling I like go to 9:56

Looks like a good utilitarian/working knife. Nice job. 👍

How well does 80CRV2 hold an edge compared to other carbon steels and super steel alloys?

Man ty so much. I was gonna start reloading but this is much cheaper

The more sharpening I do, the more I think I've joined a cult.

Check out my emulsions, top preformance and priced fair. Jende makes good stuff that I would put on as an equal to mine as they run very high abrasive concentration as well but they Cost much per ounce and the application method is no good and causes you to overload parts of the strop.

If it works out could be very pretty. Good alternative to dull gray.

Thank you for sharing your experience , I'm a new knife maker and I'm using 80crv2 but I've had my curiosities about switching to 3v

Anyone know how often they have the brass molds available for .22 and .30 cal Pellets?

The handle design came out refreshingly good. The flatness, the waist, copper details make it stand out in a good way. Well done on that part. The blade seems like not your style, i think you could have gone bigger on the clip point length, make it less steep, you know, for the poke part. Overall i like it. But the blade looks a little too chunky, may be that was your goal, idk.

Good work. The liners make that handle look awesome.

It doesn’t look bad. The handle looks great. I believe the tall blade makes it look different then I’m used to. If the blade was 11/2in. is more used then old time knives. What type of usage are you looking for. I’m thinking about making a fixed blade with a longer handle. I’m thinking 4.5in-5in blade then say 5.5 handle. The handle is the hard part. The best I can describe would be a coffin with dips. Kinda like yours but a little bit square. That doesn’t mean it will work though just a thought. How is the balance with a black that tall? I like big knives as well but I’m looking for something that can do everything but carry comfortably. Until I get some kydex I carry a coldsteel SRK-C everyday. I’m really liking that size. I carry with a loop on the inside the belt. Makes it hard to see and very comfortable. The 6in version just isn’t comfortable unless it’s hanging down! Can’t wait to see what you come up with. Plus I’m interested in have that design handles?

very interesting handle design, like it alot

Must be fun having the akill to make & design your own knives. 😊

Cool name it has Fancy Bowie 😊 The A little big Bowie Knife would be cool to 😊

Great Video, Good Job! Too bad they are no longer available. I'm sure they could sell a lot of them.

Wow 😳 they done used plastic for the back spacer when the original uses aluminum and no Loc Tite on the screws this is starting to make me very concerned about the knife industry especially Cold Steel and my favorite knoves from them. Thanks Totes , this os the first time I found out about the Espada Clones.

"i DO really really like this knife" > owns 6 espadas you don't need to convince us brotha