Wanted to show you my new iteration of an old design but in K390. I also managed to mess up the edge on my 80crv2 version by chopping a dry pecan branch.
A nice one. Keeping the experiments, doing things differently on exact same model is what i like about making knives. This one looks interesting, blackout version of your classic. May be it will be useful to know a few things i know about working with wood: 1) wood dont like being stressed, unlike micarta or g10, it requires that the pins should be a little smaller than the holes in which they go. I find that burly wood cracks the least, because the strains go all over the place and it requires more power to split. 2) woods that have a lot of natural resin or oils dont really stabilize, because its harder for the compound to get in, even with vacuum or pressure. And besides the sharpness - it may be because 80crv2 is much softer, it gives you harder time to remove the burr and some of it may stay after sharpening, edges with no burr whatsoever feel a lot sharper. It takes a lot more honing and polishing with low pressure to deburr softer steels. Keep up!
I always appreciate your help, thank you. For the wood I’ll try sanding the pins a little to reduce the diameter. I’m going to be using mostly wood now so any help is greatly appreciated. I’ll try using less pressure on the 80crv2 to see what results I get. I do have another design of this knife that I drew out but trying to perfect a design is enjoyable. My favorite design you do is the Japanese tanto like the Oni and Okinawa that you made. Thanks again I appreciate you.
very attractive blacked out with that arrangement of pins. notice the handle's a little more rectangular as well. perhaps you did this and it happened anyway or youve had this idea but you might have more luck letting wood acclimate to your climate and local humidity for a little while before using it on a knife. possibly sealing the end grain with something or other to slow drying and further prevent cracking as well.
Thank you. That is a good idea; I got the wood out of state and used it a couple days after receiving it. Maybe letting it acclimate would have helped. Though it could have been entirely my fault since this pin set up puts a lot of stress on the handle, when I’m both putting it together and working with it.
Hello, I have used stabilized woods and they do work very well, better than this ebony. But from what I understand dense woods don’t improve much when stabilized. I will look into it more since ebony could be an exception.
A nice one. Keeping the experiments, doing things differently on exact same model is what i like about making knives. This one looks interesting, blackout version of your classic.
May be it will be useful to know a few things i know about working with wood:
1) wood dont like being stressed, unlike micarta or g10, it requires that the pins should be a little smaller than the holes in which they go. I find that burly wood cracks the least, because the strains go all over the place and it requires more power to split.
2) woods that have a lot of natural resin or oils dont really stabilize, because its harder for the compound to get in, even with vacuum or pressure.
And besides the sharpness - it may be because 80crv2 is much softer, it gives you harder time to remove the burr and some of it may stay after sharpening, edges with no burr whatsoever feel a lot sharper. It takes a lot more honing and polishing with low pressure to deburr softer steels. Keep up!
I always appreciate your help, thank you. For the wood I’ll try sanding the pins a little to reduce the diameter. I’m going to be using mostly wood now so any help is greatly appreciated.
I’ll try using less pressure on the 80crv2 to see what results I get.
I do have another design of this knife that I drew out but trying to perfect a design is enjoyable. My favorite design you do is the Japanese tanto like the Oni and Okinawa that you made. Thanks again I appreciate you.
very attractive blacked out with that arrangement of pins. notice the handle's a little more rectangular as well.
perhaps you did this and it happened anyway or youve had this idea but you might have more luck letting wood acclimate to your climate and local humidity for a little while before using it on a knife. possibly sealing the end grain with something or other to slow drying and further prevent cracking as well.
Thank you. That is a good idea; I got the wood out of state and used it a couple days after receiving it. Maybe letting it acclimate would have helped. Though it could have been entirely my fault since this pin set up puts a lot of stress on the handle, when I’m both putting it together and working with it.
are the woods stabilized? I think, in general, that stabilized woods are better suited for knife handles
Hello, I have used stabilized woods and they do work very well, better than this ebony. But from what I understand dense woods don’t improve much when stabilized. I will look into it more since ebony could be an exception.