Interested to watch this but at work & going into the night. Probably get off around 3am. I will check the whole video after I'm home. Want to see what it will do.
Handle looks just a little small for me ,,but it's a very good looking design and functions well ,it has that Persian look like the Cold Steel Talwar blade. 😊
Thank you. It has a similar upswept blade as the Talwar. The handle is slightly restrictive, I would describe it as shaking a hand and having it grip back. Nobody I’ve showed this knife to likes the feeling of the grip but it took me a long time to get it just right for me.
i imagine ballistics gel would be a good medium for testing ease of extration after a thrust. i understand one of the reasons it isnt a very accurate stand in for flesh is that its very sticky. a stickier medium would probably make any difference there is more noticable. though i dont know how relevant ease of extraction from balistics gel is to practial use. Wingard Wearables has a tomahawk the "Empress" where extraction after a strike is a key element of the design who's head is completely flat on one side and convex on the other. which in testing was found to be the best shape for that task. reminds me very much of a shark tooth.
Yeah, ballistics gel would be better; the best would probably be a pig carcass. I wouldn’t really want to try it on a pig carcass though. Thank you for mentioning the tomahawk Empress. Very interesting design and it helps with what I’m trying to do. Thanks again.
they made blades/spears grow wide to slow down penetration, dont know if ease of extraction was an idea that they subscribed to as well - maybe though?
I don’t know. My idea is that a blade would be easier to extract if the hole it’s being pulled from is wider at the end. A hole with parallel lines would create more drag, but I’m finding that the difference seems negligible.
width of blade - the magnacut one has a wider blade and it consistently widens, the other one is pretty much the same width for the whole of the blade?
Yes, your correct about the Magnacut knife and the second knife is pretty much the same width (2 inches) through out most of the blade. Except of course about two inches towards the tip.
You make some interesting blades. Im not sure what your looking for? In my mind that design should be a master slicer. In my experience if you want a chopper you want weight on the end. To slice you want a belly. To stab you need a false edge. The best way to figure out what shape is useful ( at least this is what i use) i did a bunch of research on old swords. Especially ones from Persia and india. They seem to have tried everything. So what's your thoughts on magna cut is it worth the hype? I wonder if 14c28n is better, i prefer toughness over edge retention. How about sharpening is it any harder then your other steels?
Hello, I want to make a knife that can do mostly everything but is relatively short. What you said is true. For this knife I tried to make it chop well by making it wide and thick so it would chop like a cleaver. It comes down to a pretty acute point so it still stabs well though the thickness is a detriment. A false edge would help a lot but it would weaken the tip, to the point of failure? I don’t know. Eventually I’ll make a knife that I’ll keep going back to until it’ll make me no longer want to make more knives. Thank you for the advise as to what is most useful. I agree that people from the past had a better understanding of what a knife is. I wish I had their knowledge with todays materials. I’ve never used 14c28n but I do think Magnacut is really good. It gets a really nice edge, it has a very smooth feeling. I don’t really know how to describe it but I’ve felt the same edge on Vanax. It’s rust resistant enough that you don’t have to think about it. As for toughness you can’t do a super thin zero grind but if you get close and do a secondary bevel it can chop any wood and it will be fine. I think the hype is deserved when it comes to stainless but I don’t think you would get all the benefits unless you tried it in a fixed blade. As to sharpening Magnacut it feels similar to sharpening 3V or most other modern steels. With the stones I use I haven’t felt much of a difference in what I sharpen except for k390 and Vanadis 4 extra. Hope your doing well.
@@totesmalotes can't complain wanna get back to making my knives. Seems like everytime I get everything together something comes up or breaks. You know the false edge doesn't have to weaken the tip. If you do a Saber grind then a false edge in the front 1/4 it kinda makes a strong dagger point. If you know what I mean. Coldsteel did it a bunch.
@@richardhenry1969 yeah, stuff always seems to come up when I want to do something too, kinda sucks. I know what you mean about the false edge. I could keep the blade thick where the two bevels meet and only taper it right at the tip. I still think that a full tip is stronger, like an H-beam, it’s strong but the same bar would be stronger if it was completely solid, it would just weigh a ton and sag easier. But it could be something else that the difference is negligible. It’s something I should try in the future. Thank you for the ideas.
super cool blade design
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Interested to watch this but at work & going into the night. Probably get off around 3am. I will check the whole video after I'm home. Want to see what it will do.
Everything did pretty much like I thought it would except the poking cardboard. Nothing too crazy though. Good luck at work.
Handle looks just a little small for me ,,but it's a very good looking design and functions well ,it has that Persian look like the
Cold Steel Talwar blade. 😊
Thank you. It has a similar upswept blade as the Talwar. The handle is slightly restrictive, I would describe it as shaking a hand and having it grip back. Nobody I’ve showed this knife to likes the feeling of the grip but it took me a long time to get it just right for me.
i imagine ballistics gel would be a good medium for testing ease of extration after a thrust. i understand one of the reasons it isnt a very accurate stand in for flesh is that its very sticky. a stickier medium would probably make any difference there is more noticable. though i dont know how relevant ease of extraction from balistics gel is to practial use.
Wingard Wearables has a tomahawk the "Empress" where extraction after a strike is a key element of the design who's head is completely flat on one side and convex on the other. which in testing was found to be the best shape for that task. reminds me very much of a shark tooth.
Yeah, ballistics gel would be better; the best would probably be a pig carcass. I wouldn’t really want to try it on a pig carcass though.
Thank you for mentioning the tomahawk Empress. Very interesting design and it helps with what I’m trying to do. Thanks again.
they made blades/spears grow wide to slow down penetration, dont know if ease of extraction was an idea that they subscribed to as well - maybe though?
I don’t know. My idea is that a blade would be easier to extract if the hole it’s being pulled from is wider at the end. A hole with parallel lines would create more drag, but I’m finding that the difference seems negligible.
width of blade - the magnacut one has a wider blade and it consistently widens, the other one is pretty much the same width for the whole of the blade?
Yes, your correct about the Magnacut knife and the second knife is pretty much the same width (2 inches) through out most of the blade. Except of course about two inches towards the tip.
You make some interesting blades.
Im not sure what your looking for? In my mind that design should be a master slicer.
In my experience if you want a chopper you want weight on the end.
To slice you want a belly.
To stab you need a false edge.
The best way to figure out what shape is useful ( at least this is what i use) i did a bunch of research on old swords. Especially ones from Persia and india. They seem to have tried everything.
So what's your thoughts on magna cut is it worth the hype?
I wonder if 14c28n is better, i prefer toughness over edge retention.
How about sharpening is it any harder then your other steels?
Hello, I want to make a knife that can do mostly everything but is relatively short. What you said is true. For this knife I tried to make it chop well by making it wide and thick so it would chop like a cleaver. It comes down to a pretty acute point so it still stabs well though the thickness is a detriment. A false edge would help a lot but it would weaken the tip, to the point of failure? I don’t know. Eventually I’ll make a knife that I’ll keep going back to until it’ll make me no longer want to make more knives.
Thank you for the advise as to what is most useful. I agree that people from the past had a better understanding of what a knife is. I wish I had their knowledge with todays materials.
I’ve never used 14c28n but I do think Magnacut is really good. It gets a really nice edge, it has a very smooth feeling. I don’t really know how to describe it but I’ve felt the same edge on Vanax. It’s rust resistant enough that you don’t have to think about it. As for toughness you can’t do a super thin zero grind but if you get close and do a secondary bevel it can chop any wood and it will be fine. I think the hype is deserved when it comes to stainless but I don’t think you would get all the benefits unless you tried it in a fixed blade.
As to sharpening Magnacut it feels similar to sharpening 3V or most other modern steels. With the stones I use I haven’t felt much of a difference in what I sharpen except for k390 and Vanadis 4 extra. Hope your doing well.
@@totesmalotes can't complain wanna get back to making my knives. Seems like everytime I get everything together something comes up or breaks.
You know the false edge doesn't have to weaken the tip. If you do a Saber grind then a false edge in the front 1/4 it kinda makes a strong dagger point. If you know what I mean. Coldsteel did it a bunch.
@@richardhenry1969 yeah, stuff always seems to come up when I want to do something too, kinda sucks.
I know what you mean about the false edge. I could keep the blade thick where the two bevels meet and only taper it right at the tip. I still think that a full tip is stronger, like an H-beam, it’s strong but the same bar would be stronger if it was completely solid, it would just weigh a ton and sag easier.
But it could be something else that the difference is negligible. It’s something I should try in the future. Thank you for the ideas.