Build the Polar Lights USS Enterprise Refit 1:350 Scale - Part 4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- Continuing my 2023 mission to build the Polar Lights Star Trek USS Enterprise Refit in 1:350 scale.
00:00 - Introduction
00:56 - Stage 8 - Priming and Light Blocking the Saucer Section
03:53 - Stage 9 - Lights, Thrusters and Navigation Lights
Other channels mentioned in this video
SPRUEVERSE : / @sprueverse
AZTEK DUMMY : / @aztekdummy
TREKWORKS : / @trekworks
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1:350 scale figures can be found at :
www.partworkupgrades.com
Arduino software can be downloaded from :
www.arduino.cc/en/software
The link to the Arduino Code, pictures and a 5 minutes reference video and all Enterprise screen grabs from TWOK can be found at :
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So far one of the best approaches to the Polar Lights Enterprise I have ever seen. Great work Wayne!
There's a considerable amount of aztecing to do on the outside of the Enterprise. This is going to look epic.
Wayne, firstly you're doing a great build tutorial on the enterprise so far and the lighting looks good.
If I may suggest all lights that flash faster,IE: the aft bridge light should "strobe " not flash, as with the aft lights on the Necell's as in the clip you showed on this video.
To get the LEDs to strobe on the Arduino you will need to increase the time off (LOW)and decrease the time on ( HIGH). To give the strobe effect.
Hope this helps.
Looks like a good start, looking forward to see more!
You will start singing you light up my life
Bravo! WOW making our complicated world simple to understand!
Thank you for updating your Arduino code to not use delay(). Your solution using millis() is perfect, although there are libraries out there that will do that for you.
excellent work. you've made me rethink lighting this beast in the future.
Looking good 👍🏻
Nice job! I enjoy every new Video. KUTGW
Absolutely spot on Wayne “WOW” Scotty would be proud 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Loving the videos mate, very informative thank you ❤
Excellent job with the small led and programming for the flash rate! My build was way back in 2010 or so and I built the circuits from the 555 ic timer chip. This is a lot more modern way to achieve the desired results!
Great job Wayne, party time excellent ? Hahahaha 😂
Great video as always. You might need a larger resister on the green light as it's way brighter than the red one. I've seen other builders point this out on they're builds of starships. Also most paint the insides of the model silver as this helps light distribution better than white. Hope this helps.
It looks that way on camera but due to the aperture being so much smaller it’s not going to be very noticeable. I still need to sort the light bleed too but if it’s too strong I will up the resistor
I'm really enjoying watching this one take shape, love the refit enterprise, such a beautiful ship
Very clever Mr Green, I should hire you to do my lighting needs - electrics in my day were powered by Every Ready HP11's 😀
Thanks!
Heads up... The studio model's nav lights are all flush with the hull. no dome needed. ;-)
Yer the nav lights will be flush. Only the beacon had the dome
Amazing
I can't wait to see how you light the atrium.
Great video (as always). As an FYI, if you are doing the refit as seen in TMP, as opposed to the 1701-A and TWOK version, the two white navigation/formation lights (the ones on each side of the impulse ending housing on the top aft of the saucer) do not blink. Most lighting kits and modelers online get this incorrect. So if you are looking to make it a screen-accurate TMP version of the refit, they don't blink (like the navigation ones) but if making a TWOK or 1701-A version they do.
It’s not the A version but it is the TWOK version
They are LEDs. SMD just means surface mount device and can be any component, resister, capacitor etc etc, if it can go on a circuit board it can be an SMD. This particular one is an LED, they have used a SMD LED rather than one with legs because they’re generally smaller.
I thought it was surface mount diode. Led is light emitting diode
@@WorldofWayneUK "D" is definitely diode🖖.
@@WorldofWayneUK its not something most people need to know about, unless you're dealing with components as a job. But, its great that these are becoming more available to hobbyists, letting us do better lighting with more detail or in smaller kits (unlike this giant beauty of a kit) and id like to add im really enjoying this series because as much as id love to do this kit myself, i just don't have the room to display it when done, so thanks for bring us viewers along
No, “D” means “Device” - Surface Mound Device. You can have SMDs for resistors, capacitors, transistors, etc.
When doing projects like this I'm never sure about which order to do things in and inevitably end up having to do things a second time, so great to have a detailed walk through. So here's my question... Why didn't you paint the outside surfaces before putting in the LEDs? Won't it be a pain trying to protect them from the paint?
No. Because there is a cavity between the outside surface and the bulb I will be putting the sides on, sticking a cocktail stick in the holes and then priming it all together without worrying about masking
May i make a suggestion for the lighting?
Consider maybe a turn-on sequence like we see in the movie, where back to front the lights come on one section at a time and the thrusters slowly power up- Would make for a great cinematic effect, but depending on how you're gonna present the model later it might not make sense.
To be honest this model is going on display in the background. It will already be lit. I was thinking about having an automatic routine for it to cycle through so I don’t have to keep pressing buttons
Hi Wayne sieht super aus und das mit den lichtern genial.
If I may, there is a difference between beacon and marker lights. The navigational marker lights should not blink, where as beacon lights can. The rd LEDs you have at the 45 degree positions, are for the RCS system (Reaction Control System) thrusters, so those too, should not blink. I may be incorrect, but I am pretty darned sure this is the case, especially with the navigation marker lights (think about naval ships in how the port and starboard lights do not blink).
Normally yea but as I mentioned in the video, for some reason, the Enterprise does it this way
@@WorldofWayneUK It may have been shown that way in the movies, but that doesn't mean it's correct. Even the pros can make mistakes. Of course, if you are going for movie-accurate, then forgive my geekiness and carry on.
👏🍺👍🏻
Wayne have you considered soldering to copper tape to keep things super clean in your installation of wiring?
No but that’s a great idea
Keep in mind the light flashing changed between TMP and TWOK after ILM screwed up thr model.
Yer I’m going with the TWOK version
@@WorldofWayneUK Looking forward to your build.
Blubs? Not Mini LEDs?
Hello Wayne, love the series and I'm following along with my own build. I just installed all the nav lights and I'm getting circular light bleed around them. Do you think that will disappear once I paint the top, or is this something I should address now?
They should go when you paint the top
Are you going to animate the thruster lights mate or leave them solid?
I will leave them solid like they are in TWOK
Which resin brand are you using, I looked in your Amazon store but couldn't find it? I can only see the bottles for dispensing it.
Look in the model builders emporium tab
Technically as this is a space ship there should be no external sounds to hear.
Jerry Goldsmith didn’t think of that lol
@@WorldofWayneUK lol. Sound doesn't travel in the near perfect vacuum of space because there are no particles of gasses to vibrate and transmit the sounds.
You might want to increase the resistor for the green led to compensate for green lamps being naturally brighter than red ones.
Wayne, are you planning to install all of the Arduino boards into the model base or are you going to try to install them inside the model itself?
I was originally going to put them all in the base but think it’s probably going to be better in each relevant section
Getting all the wires down the mounting rod to the base for all the boards would have been difficult I think.
@@msrushing989 yer. With magnet wire it would make it easier but doing it this way I will only need power and switch wires going down there
I have been officially banned by the missus to have this. Both feet firmly planted and hand on hip. Just like the lugs on your model there is no give.
I just had to work on my Mrs for a little while
What R2D2 and X-wing kits are those?
R2 is Fanhome and The X-Wing is Deagostini but is no longer available
@@WorldofWayneUK oh ok. Thank you sir
Bonjour,
Pouvez-vous me dire combien mesure en centimètre le diamètre de la soucoupe s'il vous plait, je n'arrive pas à trouver l'info? Merci.
It's roughly 44cm
Merci@@WorldofWayneUK 👍
Wayne... Storing your UV resin in a clear plastic bottle seems like a bad idea. It will be exposed to natural background UV light which will cause it to set.
Also, be careful with the UV torch, watch exposure to your eyes and limit exposure to your skin. It does serious damage and you won't even know about it!
Posted that literally 30 seconds before you mentioned the clear bottle in your video... 🤣
Wayne? I am hoping that you might deign to fly across the pond again, and visit Louisville for WonderFest. I've never been, but? This June I plan to visit. I reside in Los Angeles currently so my journey is easy. (Comparatively). I enjoy your videos AND of course am subbed. Perhaps I will shake your hand in June?
Me and the Mrs will be there in June 😊
BTW, the IATA code for Louisville we is SDF. The ICAO code is KSDF. And yes, ok am a pilot (retired).
Lol. We fly in on the Thursday night and leave on the Monday
Are you referring to WonderFest 2023? If so, please come find us at the Canadian Embassy (2nd floor near the upper theatre rooms) and say hi. I’m bringing my 1/350 TOS E build for a demo if you want to see it in action.
@@RossAWaddell definitely. We were there last year too