TOS 1/350 Lighting Kit. - Final Assembly.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2021
- This is the final part of the installation and assembly (neck, engineering hull, and shuttle bay) of the 2021 Edition Light Kit and 50th Anniversary 1:350 TOS Enterprise and shows you:
- How to splice wires in the kit without soldering.
- Lots of shots of the entire ship fully assembled with all the lights installed.
N.B. The kit is not painted or decaled. That will be covered in future videos.
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Nicely done. I wrote the "Star Fleet Assembly Manuals" (1-3).
From Buffalo, N.Y. That was alot of work. Back in my day when that model first came out they had but 2 lights. One light for the top and one for the bottom dome with d-cell batteries, or was it c-cell batteries. I'm am giving honour to were honour is due, Good Job Pal.
A really cool addition would be to fit two laser pointers in the lower dome of the saucer to simulate Fazers being fired!! It would be difficult to do but wow what an effect you could make in a smoky room!
I was cringing at the thought of the wires twisting inside the tube as you kept rotating the ship on the stand the same direction. The lack of light leaks speaks to your preparation. Great job!
The video is edited I can promise that every turn was followed by a turn back! I made a point to keep track of that.
@@OurayMountainModels Phew!
My first ever TOS Enterprise came with lighting kit already included. Lighting was two "wheat bulbs", one each for the saucer's top and bottom transparent domes. Power source was two AA batteries in the lower hull and the switch was rotation of the deflector dish assembly. The kit was AMT circa 1969!
I had that AMD model too. I think I got it in '70. Worked hard to ensure the lighting was right. The weakest point of that model was where the nacelles attached to the body. Besides that, that model sat on my dresser for years.
Very nice work Brother. I think that it's worth the $200 , that's what sets the whole project off. Plus it's ready to go right out of the box .. How cool is that ?? 👍
FYI Twisted wires can oxidize over time and cause an intermittent connection to the main power source for the kit. Worst case scenario is that the electronics will fail completely.. Soldering the wires is definitely the best way to ensure years of trouble free operation.
Magnificent building and lighting, so well done, love that Refit version !
I feel like blades spin way too fast.
You're a real master at building things! I haven't built a model in years, and this really was fun to watch. I'm also going to share this with someone I know who does build models ... for a living. I think he'll enjoy seeing what you do too. Thanks for helping people understand how to do things right the first time!
I like how your shuttle bay came out. I've noticed most people call the Bussard rotors, fans.
Great job showing us the lighting kit and also your building tips.I am looking forward to a future video where you show us the finished painted and decals applied but it does already look quite impressive!😀😀
Damn Good Job! Good Job!
That tos enterprise is SEXY ! WOW ! Good workn
Outstanding video and presentation
Great tips!
Great tutorial! I have the 50th Anniversary TOS kit and the Deluxe kit with the lights and etched grills and weathering decals. It was given to me by a best friend 9 years ago and I'm finally working up the nerve to tackle it, LOL. I really appreciate videos like this.
Great looking model. Love the lighting kit, it really makes the model pop.
Nice video.
Thanks for sharing.
Great work! WoW!
hey, top hat Polar Lights! They have improved a lot in lighting kit
thanks for the guide videos
Thanks, useful video. Surely there are instructions out there for building the simple circuits to perform these functions without paying so much for a kit with so many issues.
very cool!
getting ready to do this kit myself along with the discoprise 1/1k. Loving your vids, very informational and load with great tips!.
For this one tho, I just gotta say, seeing it without paint ALMOST makes me want to not bother painting it hardly at all, it is completely gorgeous without a drop on the hull!.
I've seen the Disoprise done that way too, but mines got too many fluid color marks from when it was molded to even consider lol.
But this one.. I've looked at the parts in mine, and then seeing this vid.. I almost feel bad that I'm going to be painting it now..
So much great work but it looks like you have the bridge facing the incorrect, forward position and not the 36° to port position.
The model looks gorgeous! I love the lighting, including the blue glow of the engines and the nacelles. As I understand it, Gene Roddenberry wanted the blue blow for the nacelles but it was not doable due to budget issues. The only thing I'd add to the TOS Enterprise is a soft blue glow behind the deflector.
Good tips
Looks like they have improved things a little over the original light kit when I did mine about ten years ago. The board for the secondary hull looks slightly smaller to fit those tabs better. In my original (documented on my videos) the barbs from the solder joints penetrated the main power wire and shorted out part of the flasher circuit going to the rear ion pod flashers. So one board was toast. So my recommendation on those earlier boards is to cover the back with electrical tape as an extra protection layer and clip the nubs on the front support posts. The back ones and the wires will still support the board fine inside the hull. Or you can also tack it down in front with drops of white glue or shoe goo.
On mine I also had the nacelles separate from the pylons and glued the pylons on the secondary hull. That way I could do seam cleanup and painting on the secondary hull without the nacelles getting in the way. I wired in some small RC power connectors which allowed me to snap connect the nacelles on and with the pylons being properly glued into the secondary hull, they aligned perfectly with no droop.
Nice video work!
18:30: Fun fact: it was supposed to have the warp lighting but it was scrapped due to time and budget constrains
Need to pit some foam in the nacelles to cut down on the fan sound
I'm going to do a video with a decibel meter and I'll try that!
Yeah, the motors are crazy loud and imo take away from the fact that the nacelles have the spinning component. I also think they are spinning way to fast. Maybe add a resistor or potentiometer to the mix to dial them in to a more accurate speed.
Nice presentation of the final assembly, good length and excellent sharing of observations.
Likes: Low to no light leaks, well designed board, jumpers and wiring as well as the programming.
Dislikes: The nacelle lighting is way off IMHO, too bright and too much orange, as well as the speed of the spinners. Also, the saucer navigation lights need to be a bit brighter (might just be how it comes out on video). I'd nix the blue in the nacelles.
When I heard the lighting kit alone was about $200, I immediately felt no way I'd get it. However, looking at it here, it's definitely way better than I thought it'd be. Worth money.
ngl the glowing nacelles is growing on me.. At first I wasn't going too do them myself, but after seeing them on multiple forms of the shit, I'm warming up to it.
I almost want to extend the wires for those specifically and add a second switch so I can on/off that separately.
It's much more effective painting the inside of a model white if you light it up. Black or silver is essential to put down for the first two or three coats inside the model as black and silver paint has a very high opacity, and will block the light from shining through the plastic, but a top coat of white makes all the difference for diffusing the light inside the model to give a more evenly lit effect visible through the windows.
Really enjoyed your video....many thanks! It has given me the confidence to finally tackle mine. Have you done the video with the painting and decaling yet?
You put the bridge wrong. It supposed to be side ways. The tube on the back of the bridge is the turbo lift housing. The doors should be ailing with it.
I prefer "homemade" lighting with the Tenacontrols control board. They also have nice bussard lighting effects boards available separately. You can choose motorized, or LED effects only. Also, completing the model in sections makes puttying and painting MUCH EASIER! I complete the saucer first. Lighting, gluing, putty, sand, prime, paint and decals. THEN I start on the secondary hull. Same procedure, add neck and pylons. THEN warp engines are last. Final steps, attach saucer, attach warp engines. It is much easier to glue, putty, sand, prime and paint each sub-assembly on its own. Having to do all that putty work and sanding on the completely assembled model is just a catastrophic accident waiting to happen. Just my 2 cents!
This brings up a good point/question - how much does it cost to do the "homemade" lighting effects? I looked at the Tenacontrols website and their bussard lighting kits are ~$135 - $200. Then additional interior lighting components need to be purchased and fabricated/wired to achieve the Polar Lights lighting kit effects. I agree that completing the model in sections/sub-assemblies is easier than trying to paint and detail the model after complete assembly.
@@1800STIG I didn't run the numbers, but the alternate control board and bussard boards are comparable to the Polar Lights kit. Rolls of LED tape and individual SMDs are dirt cheap. 30AWG wrapping wire is also needed and also dirt cheap. Basic soldering skills are essential, but not hard to learn. I wanted to do a detailed shuttle bay, but struggled with it and had to abandon and go with the closed doors. My painting job looks flawless. Almost too perfect and hard to avoid the "showroom new" and/or "painted plastic" look. My next challenge is adding some weathering to bump up the realism. Overall a very fun kit to work on. If only I had more time!
😅😅😅well information good show 😅😅😅😅😅
Nice job! I think I read that Gene Roddenberry wanted the blue lights on the nacelles but it wasn't practical nor in the budget.
Keep in mind that the original model had to be lit with lamps and bulbs, not LEDS. Trying to make an even glow on something as big as the studio model would have been a pain.
What color grey did you use on the shuttlebay exterior?
Why it ain't got none them star tracks all up on it? If not which movie it seem like? IDK!
Beautiful job. WHY the non-canonical glowing blue nacelles?? Why do so many model makers insist
on adding these things that were not ever in the TOS Enterprise?? Make it accurate to the era. If you’re going to add non-canon stuff, why stop there? Why not add the I.D. lights on the saucer section and secondary hull? Let’s light up the navigational array in orange. Heck, let’s just make it the Motion Picture re-fit version. No? Just do it with respect for canon.
Do they make this model but comes with all pre spray painted i don't mind putting it together but i am not good at painting as i am looking for a big one with lights but no soldering and it all comes complete
The deflector at the front of the Enterprise in the series stuck out didnt it?
Battery or Plug in Power Source for the complete kit installed?
Will this kit work for the cut a way enterprise kit
Where is the dish?
What gauge wire do you think that is?
Is the Polar Lights Enterprise discontinued? I’m only finding it on eBay at 6 to 8 times the retail price.
Nice job. i have the original light kit that came out when the model first came out. Still unbuilt, I'm afraid. One question ... that port bussard dome seems to be running a little faster than the starboard one.
I have to check on whether I've done something wrong on that. It'll probably have to wait until I have a day off from the day job though.
I had my doubts, and I even had R2 check a motor for me, but they're spinning at almost exactly the same speed. th-cam.com/video/NOILhMrl_OE/w-d-xo.html
@@allscaletrek Good to go then! Look forward to seeing it painted.
I had this happen on my 1/1000 disco enterprise, one side was dragging a bit, dunno why. I scuffed the little post/pole thing and squirted wd40 on it, wiped it off, and reinstalled. It looks great now, they're just about the same
Those motors seem a bit loud
Those are jts leads
Can I buy it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why is the port bussard collector spinning faster than the starboard one? Shouldn’t they spin at the same speed?
I'm looking into that.
I had my doubts, and I even had R2 check a motor for me, but they're spinning at almost exactly the same speed. th-cam.com/video/NOILhMrl_OE/w-d-xo.html
It might the be camera's shutter creating the optical illusion that one is spinning slower than the other. Modern DSLRs typically have rolling shutters. Just a thought.
It's kind of ridiculous that the base kit doesn't come with clear parts for the window over the shuttlebay and landing lights. The only reason I can see to do that is to try and make you buy the lighting kit. I guess I have to try and drill them out which, given how small the pieces are, is going to be a challenge. And if I screw it up I'm basically hosed.
Dirty little secret...The original kit plastic parts are translucent enough for good lighting effects in the shuttle and bridge. It even helps diffuse the light so it looks more natural. The clear parts aren't even really necessary.
@@Thin447Line Another dirty little secret: The Shuttle Bay and Bridge parts supplied in the kit are HIGHLY inaccurate; better aftermarket parts are available online..
200$ plus ~$130 for the kit is just not reasonable to me. The Kitinga's lighting kit was $65 and was I'd say right where it should be cost vs function wise.
Do they make an official light kit for the refit?
They don't. And it's a huge pain compared to this kit. Lots of things that need to be cut out to make it possible to light.
I don't remember anything on the Klingon ship spinning. Hell, I don't remember it having anywhere near as many lights either. You're comparing apples and oranges.
Considering this kit with the lighting kit costs a fraction of what the Master Replicas pre-built was it’s the next best thing and still costs less than Round 2’s sloppily built pre-built model with QC issues and no lighting.
@@christopherh4653 The spinning is so loud who would display it like that? Im comparing light kits to cost. It might have had less lights but at a way reduced price.
@@lovecchio420 Yeah, you should probably just build a real one that's relatively silent and navigate yourself to Noonegivesashitwhatyouthink.
Should of painted it.
Seriously if you are paying a fair amount for a model, you would expect that the manufacturer could make sure that all parts actually fit! Without the need to grind away plastic from the main body! 🤷🏻♂️
It's a shame that the shuttle bay fwd wall begins just aft of the nacelle struts, because in the Franz Joseph plans, that wall is forward of the nacelle struts! Your shuttle bay has shrunk!!!!!
$200 is a good deal for all you get.
ncc-1701 fail