10 Minutes To Better Pen Making - Turning Acrylic With Carbide Tools - Mark Dreyer
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2020
- The biggest challenge I see many people struggle with is the transition from wood to acrylic. In this video we look at what “acrylic” really is, how to turn it in 4 steps and 3 cuts, and how to use carbide tools to make the transition easy. Thanks to John Underhill (JohnU) for providing the blanks to turn. Thanks for watching.
In this series of videos, I plan to take individual topics and explore them and discuss them 10 minutes at a time. I will use my 25 years as a pen maker to give tips and tricks on the topic. Each topic will only be 10 minutes. We will explore everything from kit and blank selection, to drilling, to turning and turning tools, finishing, and marketing and sales. If there is a topic you would like to see discussed, please leave me a comment. Thanks.
Opal Blank Provided By: John Underhill (Underhill Creations) And Available at:
Sponsor: Exotic Blanks - www.exoticblanks.com/
Music: www.bensound.com/royalty-free
Your videos are some of the best instructional turning videos that I have found on YT. I find that many videos don't really teach they say "So now we make it round" and that is the extent of the "instruction" with nothing about lathe speed, tool angle or any of the things that people need to know. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and the feedback. I will have a new set of videos in a few weeks and hope you find them useful also.
thanks for another great video !!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome thank you for sharing. Everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thus far, Mr. Dreyer's videos and the knowledge communicated in them, are the best, IMHO. As a beginning turner, I started with carbide tools. Each time I place a blank on the mandrel is a new experience. I've been using solely the square cutting tool, thinking that is what it's designed to do, remove large amounts of the blank. I was also told that the round blade was for smoothing the blank AFTER most of the material was removed with the square blade. This video opened up an entirely new world for me. Thank you for your expertise in both using the lathe and being able to succinctly communicate that expertise.
Very well done, Mark!!!
Thanks. I have only done a dozen pens so far and this video saved me 70% of my turning time. Speeding up my lathe was a game changer and the product turned out great.
Thanks for watching - glad it helped....
I'm so glad I caught your video. Not so much for the making pens, but I love how you hang your tools in the background. I went to Home Depot and made my own. Genius.
Anything I can do to help....
Great plain English video
Thank you
Michael 🇬🇧
Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed your video. Going to try your method.. Thanks
Mark, I just recently got into pen turning and have done only a handful of wooden ones so far. I have have a few acrylic blanks that I would like to turn. Before I started I watch a few videos others have made and when I started watching yours I hit the subscribe button in less than a minute. I really like your videos they are really informative and enjoyable to watch. I lost count of how many of your videos I watched before turning my first acrylic pen. I have had great success using a lot of your techniques and I look forward to watching your other videos. Thanks again for taking the time to do theses videos they are exactly what I have been looking for getting into pen turning.
Nice video. I like the presentation style: fast, to the point, non-repetitive, and well planned.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comments.....
Nice job, Mark. Very informative. Thanks for taking the time to make and post it.
Well, I'm glad I found this video. so helpful for me.
Nice job!
I like short informational videos, great job! Looking forward for your next video.
Yes I'm also using EZ-wood tools also but I use the square ez wood with a negative Rake so when I switched to the negative rake EZ-WOOD all my problems went away I was having trouble with my blowing up and it was tearing me down. Anyway thanks for listening.
Thanks for watching
First time viewing, great video,👏👏🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Mark, thank you so much for this video. I have been struggling very much with turning acrylic pens. But after watching your video I tuned one this morning that was my best yet. Not only was your process and cutting method very helpful, but also increasing my lathe speed was a big help. I have been going very slow, especially starting, but increasing the speed made the cutting much easier and smoother. Thanks!
Glad it helped out. I generally turn pens at the highest speed. Let me know how it goes and you refine the techniques to met your needs. My wood pens video I add a small variation.
Thanks
Love this video!!!! thank you
Very well done video. Thank you for the time you have taken to share the info.
OMG OMG OMG.....this video is the best thing in my life....totally rescued my 2020 Christmas pen gifts!!!! Wish i had seen this video 3 Christmas’s ago. Thank you so so much...!!!!!
Well better late than never. Thanks for watching and glad I could give you something to think about. My goal is to simply share and start conversations. Thanks.
Well done! Thanks!
Great video!!!
Excellent, showed me alot of techniques to use. I appreciate all the info. Peeling cut and grip of tool most helpful. I do mainly bowls and vessels so have not used carbide much. This helped. Thanks
Awesome video! Really appreciate how you break it all down. Amazing job sir!
Thank you Mark, that was really helpfull. New sub 👍
Thanks so much! This helped me with three or four things I’d been trying to figure out.
Excellent Demo today with SDWT. It was worth every minute. Thanks!
Mark as a fellow Mark - I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for coming out to the demo and watching these videos. Thanks.
Thanks for the info, I'm getting into pen turning and trying to soak up as much as I can...been turning bowls and cross grain stuff with HSS, so carbides and acrylics are another ball game for me. The close ups and tool angulation helps a bunch for me too. Thanks! 🤘
Nice job! Quite informative!
THANK YOU! I learned a lot!
Thanks for watching.
Awesome info. I'm just getting back into turning and appreciate the super informative presentation and the close up shots
Thanks for the kind comments. Glad they help - got some new ones coming up.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been turning acrylics for a while and I LOVE my carbide negative rake tool. I have REALLY struggled turning the Acrylester blanks. They chip and shatter so easily. I think I may be putting too much pressure straight in, and not across. I have a couple that I’ve epoxied back together after they cracked and split. I’ll see if I can salvage them by changing how I apply the pressure. Thanks for the tips!
Well done Mark, this is the first of ur videos I’ve seen and it’s very well done, I’ll look for your others, thanks
Thanks for watching - always looking for topics. And thanks for the kind words.
I would like to see a pen buffing wheels
Check out the 8:30 mark on the following - th-cam.com/video/ZMxVxn84icM/w-d-xo.html. It is my video on "Glass Like Finish". Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
I don't usually comment, but this video was so spot on it hurts lol. Time to turn my carbide tools and try this new technique. Got a new lathe recently and I keep shattering things. Well this is probably part of the reason. Thanks. Going to go watch some other of your videos. Well done sir.
Thanks for watching. Keep us up on the progress or suggestions.
Hello, I watched your video, and I couldn't believe how well the round (finishing) tool did. My main question is what speed do you turn the acrylic? I am having a hard time on what speed to use. I have a general machine full size lathe, so I have several speeds to choose from. I am also amazed that you use the regular round and not negative cutter. Thank you so much for this video! I really don't have a tutor, so I come on here and watch videos, then I turn. Please respond when u can.
Cynthia
Thanks Mark for your informative Vid. I gave up turning - the dust was killing me. Have decided to return and turn Acrylic pens subject to one condition. Is dust an Issue?? Will appreciate your comments.
Ray - first and foremost thanks for watching. Now to your question - and this is just my opinion. When it comes to dust you will have it on both wood and acrylic. I personally find acrylic to have less dust during the turning stage - I get the longer ribbons (as seen in the video) but I don't want to fool you there is still dust. And sanding - yes - there is dust. I use a vacuum right by the lathe and it does not bother me. I have issues with wood and allergies over the years. I always use a mask and face shield. With the vacuum right there my dust has been significantly less, but still have some. If there is anything I can do to encourage you (and still be honest) I would like to see you get back to turning. Hopefully it comes out in the videos - my goal is simply to encourage people to have fun at the lathe. Let me know if you get back into turning.
It"s funny, the same message applies across many tools. If you are asking if the edge is dull, it is. Change it out. Learned this on my scroll saw, I have yet to break a blade, bit I have tossed a lot of them.
Great video!
As far as sharpening carbide - the way to look at it is am I in the pen turning business or the sharpening business? if I get 80 hours out of a carbide head, that's about $0.25/hour for the head. It's not worth the time (for me at least) to 'save money' by sharpening the head my self.
Glad I found your channel. Great video. I like using carbide tools. You don't have to do so much sharpening.
Thanks for watching and I like the carbide tools also. My go-to tools
Thank you sir. The handhold you use was a game changer for me. I’m starting to make kit-less pens and managing to crack a lot of threaded tenons. In your experience, outside of ebonite, what is the toughest plastic that might better withstand stresses?
"Macro" - thanks for watching. Tis is a tough question only because of the threading vs. turning. I know the AA type acrylic (www.exoticblanks.com/under-the-sea-mesh-acrylic-blank.html and Berea hold up well). The "hardest" is the camo blanks from the video (but that limits the colors). I reached out to a few friends that do this more and some of the replies are - Alumilite Urethane holds threads well. I am waiting on one more reply and will get it up here as soon as I get it back.
Learning every time I see one of your videos!! Thanks. Early in the video you talked about some acrylics that are more difficult to turn and mentioned that another technique should be used. Will you make another video showing this or are there other videos already available?
Sorry I need to clarify. For any of the blanks I mentioned - acetate / acrylester / the camo (rubbery feel) / cat (powder) I use this technique and three cuts. I simply go slower (adjust my speed left to right) and my depth on the peel cut. The camo I go very slow. The cat (powder) or acrylester I don't go as deep. On the blank in the video I was able to cut it in two passes. On the other I just don't go as deep and make more cuts - still maintaining the 45 degree angles with my hands and the cutting angle. Does this help? I only change on embedded objects - and I plan to have a video on that. The goals is a new video ever 2 to 3 weeks. And thanks for the kind words.
Hi Mark. Can you tell me the average speeds you use when turning different acrylics.
Thanks. In your opinion is this shape cutter the best shape for wood pens? I am brand new at this.
Ron - thanks for the prelude "In your opinion" because I sincerely appreciate that. In all my videos I try to say just I what I do and how I do things. I am always looking for the next best things or getting better myself. So thank you. For me I do all my acrylic pen turning with only the round cutter. I fell I get the best control with that one. I can also suggest the negative rake round cutter (doing that video next). As for wood - see my fool proof wood pen turning video and I always rough with the square. For new turning and being budget friendly, I round will do all you need. If you want to add - get the square cutter. Hope this helps - let me know if there is anything else. Thanks for watching - and hope to see you at the Midwest Penturners Gathering.
so when im turning pens sometimes the pen blank stops turning when im making my cuts. I mean like when the tool touches the acrylic block the block stops spinning but the mandrel is still spinning. anyway to fix this? its not a glue problem either
Sorry I was prepping for the MPG - so sorry for the delay. That is weird. More times than not I would have assumed the blank broke from the tube (glue). This is common with CA. Sometime it is hard to tell because the tube still feels secure. It could also be heat. The glue heats up, releases and as the blank cools there is enough pressure to make it seem tight again. If the mandrel is spinning the only other option is the pressure holding the bushings. What type of mandrel are you using. With the traditional (long black / silver where you add spacers) I have had it where it looked like I had enough spacers and it was just to the threads so a little movement knocked it out. I switched to the TPC type (not full TBC just the dead center and bearing tail center. Sorry I wish I could nail it for sure, but the above are the issue I have had. If this does not help - reach out and we will get it.
Hi Mark, I have always been extra gentle when turning acrylic. Making dozens of passes and obviously requiring a very long time for each blank. Although I had to modify your technique to make it work for me, the aggressive scoop cut worked like a dream. I was able to turn a pen several times faster, yet it turned out just as clean and beautiful as my previous ones.
I would like to ask: what RPM do you start at when starting with a square blank? And do you change it once it's rounded?
For those who are new to turning: I did notice that in the initial passes the chips fly at a pretty high rate of speed. So I would recommend a face shield for safety. Thanks again for making these videos!
Thanks for watching and commenting. The goal is always just giving "my way" and hoping you will adapt it for themselves. Glad to know you made it work for you. As for speed - as fast as I can. My lathe goes about 3200 rpm so that is what I turn at. Go fast and introduce the tool a little slower if you like. One WARNING - I never turn my lathe on or off - I rotate the speed from 0 to 3200 and then back to 0. Doing this makes sure I never leave the speed at the highest level in case I put a bowl on and turn it on. I don't want it to go that fast. Hope this helps.
Hey Mark. Devoted follower here who is glad to see you making more vids. Not sure if I should ask my question here or over at IAP as I am curious about a few things in a few of your vids but..... help me understand what difference it makes if it is at a 45 deg angle if the cutter is round?
Ask either place and on IAP feel free to pm me. So this is subtle but I mention it in the video. When making the initial scoop cuts to round the blank I cut more straight in. The cutter is getting hit with edges and more prone to dulling and nicks. When I make the finish cuts I turn the cutter the 45 degree angle. Now I have a blade that has not seen the punishment of the scoop cuts. I just think the blade is cleaner or sharper. Then when I rotate the cutter I turn this edge to be the straight in cutter for rounding opening up the new cutter edge for finish cutting. Mathematically round is the same - just maximizing cutter life. Make sense?
What RPMs would you recommend for each acrylic type
I go as fast as the lathe goes. On mine it is around 3200 rpm. Go at a speed you are comfortable at - and no faster. You can adjust the depth and speed moving across as you get more practice. Hope this helps and thanks for watching ...
I dont know if I missed it, but what speed do you turn your acrylic blanks at?
I have my lathe at the fastest speed I can ~3250 rpm. This is a little more of a personal choice - but I would error on faster and more shallow cuts, than going slower. When I go slow the wood / acrylic give more resistance to the cut. Try faster and less shallow of the cut I go over. Thanks for watching.
How are you mounting acrylic blanks? Will a spur center suffice, or would a steb drive work better?
Great video. What speed is your lathe set while doing your acrylic work?
Great question and sorry I did not cover that one in the video. I turn at the fastest the lathe will go - in my case 3200 rpm on my PowerMatic. The initial introduction of the tools is slower and smooth. Thanks and I hope this helps.
Thanks for the great professional videos, what speed are you turning acrylics with carbide?
Sorry for the brief delay - I turn with my lathe at the fastest it can go - PowerMatic at about 3250 RPM. Thanks for watching.
I struggle with two issues. One I get pitting and major chipping, especially at the ends. I never have this problem w wood. Welcome any suggestions.
So have you tried the technique I mention in the video. I round the blank down to about 1/8" to 1/16" from the bushings and then round back INTO the blank. Not with the blank. And I use a very light tough. Let the tool fine the bushing and work lightly back into the blank. And while the pros reading this will cringe you can also try sanding down from there. Remember the purpose is to have fun and enjoy the process - not fight it and no one will know how you got down there. Technique will come.
Also sharp tools are a must. When I have had chip out in the past is was not on the bushing cuts it was on the rounding cuts and taking too much with a dull tool. Try not to engage the blank when it is not round on the ends. Notice when rounding I always take those rounding cuts from about 1/4" from the outside then go towards outside - on both sides.
Hope these help.....
a video of pen bufftng
Check out the 8:30 mark on the following - th-cam.com/video/ZMxVxn84icM/w-d-xo.html. It is my video on "Glass Like Finish". Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
My issue is that I am disabled and in a wheelchair I can’t use a wood lathe and I can’t do interlaced blanks they explode is there anything I can do other then cutting them into a powder
When you say interlaced I assume you mean acrylester blanks, which are one of the more tricky blanks. I use the same technique and cutting pattern - rounding, peel cuts and finish cut. I just go slower and introduce the tool slower. When I hear blanks "blow" up can I suggest a few other things to check? First I would check my gluing. If the blank blows up look at the brass tube where the blank was - if it is dry then that is your issue - I twist the tubes a lot as I insert them to assume good glue coverage. Also if you paint the hole or rube (I prefer the hole) make sure the paint is dry and has adhered to the surface - I generally allow 24 hours. Check for dull tools. This can cause a lot more issues than you first think. Cutting with dull tools during rounding put significantly more force on the blank. And finally - how are you facing the ends? If using a pen mill make sure the insert is not getting hot during the facing (using to much or to long). The heat causes issues with the glue. Heat is bad for glue. Then the glue can weaken - thus explodes.
Hope this helps - let me know,
Mark
Same amount of rounded cutting edge regardless of angle of insert holder shank handle
What height would your tool rest be
The tool rest, with respect to the blank, should be set so that your tools is cutting directly on center. The tool needs to be horizontal when making the cut. As for the tool rest on general and lathe height (if that is the question) try to get the lathe center at about your elbow. For me this is a slight challenge since I am only 5' 8". So I got used to being up a little. Hope this helps and I answered your question. If not let me know, and thanks for watching.
Thanks Mark I discovered your videos a week ago, now your my go to guy.
@@billmoore7219 Thanks for the kind words. The goal of my videos is to get people out there sharing ideas.
Why do I get so much chatter with acrylic blanks?
In general chatter is an artifact of one of a few things. The first being trying to cut too much at once, the second being a dull tool and finally cutting from underneath the piece. I find the third being the most common. The tool wants to be directly on center. Below center will have the piece overhanging the tool and the cutting edge trying to cut into the blank not on the edge. Next would be dull, which is easy to try and fix and finally too much cut. as you can see from the demo I can cut quite a bit if the tool is centered and sharp. Hope this helps and if it does not - please let me know. Hopefully if any else has any ideas they can give some advice. One final thought once round you should be able to make deeper cuts. Try lighter cuts until round. If still having issues look at your mandrel setup for balance. I have another video here on that. Let us know .....
@@markdreyer2865 Thanks, I think it may have been cutting below. Im taking very light passes, and the tools are new carbide cutters. We'll try some additional pens, thanks.
I don't concern my self with tools , I have 3 HSS tools a bedan ,a skew and a 1/16 parting tool, what concerns me is what to do with the waste , I make wood pens , my shavings are recycled either used as mulch or put in with veg waste and lawn trimmings, I don't know what to do with Acrylic or Resin waste ,we should have more regard for the planet , I don't like to think that it will go into landfill as it is not biodegradable,,.👎👎