How to get a smooth as glass CA finish for your pens
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.พ. 2018
- On today's episode, I'll teach you the method I use to obtain a glass like finish on my pens using Cyanoacrylate, or CA, glue (aka 'Superglue'). CA not only gives you a glossy finish, it also protects the wood or resin from damage.
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Mercury CA: bit.ly/2oeOpzb
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How to contact me:
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Lost River Wood Shop
P.O. Box 843
Mitchell, IN 47446
Email: lostriverwoodshop@gmail.com
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Music by Joakim Karud / joakimkarud - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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How closely does this match your CA application method?
Not at all. I prefer a natural wood finish with carnuba wax. Quick and simple. I make 2 pens an hour, sell them at a reasonable price and make a nice profit. A better hourly rate than I do with my bigger turnings and the guitars I make. However I do make composite vases with wood and resin and I will try the Jewelers rouge. Thanks for the video, your finish is really nice.
Good information and you really are a good instructor. It’s reassuring to see that we all have failures despite our best efforts.
With you including how things dont always go as planned really relieves pressure for when things don't go as planned for me. Most creators would ditch that and make it look like everything's perfect. Thank you for being true
Exactly what I thought - in a way it was a relief to see a human youtuber, but at the same time I felt his pain!
I thank you so much for sharing your method of the CA finish! I've learned a lot by watching. Also, I can't tell you how many times I've screwed up blanks after all that process. Thank you for showing how real it is for how things can go wrong. I've yet to be satisfied with my own CA finish, but this has been very helpful. Also, thanks for sharing that particular brand of CA!!
A week or so into pen making I found this video. Thank you so much. You explain really clearly how to use CA effectively. I have printed a set of instructions for the garage based on your video.
OH... so much like my days... What a great finish, and thank you for sharing your process. Beautiful!
Thank you. Doing my first pen and wasn’t happy with finish on it. Between you and some others I am getting to where I need to be. I also like the end where it all went to crap. Reminds me that I am not the only one whose shop days are not always perfect. Great Job.
When I first started getting into pen turning I read about using CA glue, but decided that it would be too expensive and not vary safe. Since I only turn wood pens, I decided to use linseed oil. The two most popular brands for gunstock finishing are Lin-speed and Tru-Oil. All the sanding is done before any finish is applied, and the finish is rubbed in with bare hands. The only cleanup you need to do on your hands is to use soap and water. Several coats can be rubbed in, and the final product can be gloss or matte. If you get a dent in the wood all you have to do is sand the finish around the dent, bring the wood back up with a damp cloth and a steam iron, and then refinish it with the same finish as what was originally on it.
Keep in mind that these finishes are made for guns that are used for hunting in the field, where it may be raining, so the finish is quite durable. Some people think guns are dangerous, but this is one gunsmithing skill that is MUCH SAFER than the way that many people finish their pens.
No, I am not a professional gunsmith, gunsmithing is just one of my many hobbies. It helps to have several hobbies when something learned in one hobby can be used in another hobby.
Do you apply this finish on the lathe? Sounds like something I will try on my pens.
Thank you for this video, I followed the steps and have had beautiful CA finishes ever since.
That's great! Wait until my updated process gets filmed, You'll be surprised by the results :)
Thank you for this video!! I had an “aha” moment when you showed sanding the CA glue off the ends of the tube before you did your micro-meshing. I hadn’t thought about that and I’m certain I’ll get better results from now on. Thanks so much!
Thanks so much for sharing this vid mate. Many wouldn't with the break at the end. I have been there so many times as a novice in turning wood blanks but my reaction on the breakage uses a lot more colorful language. I have learnt so much from your explanations in this vid and others that you have shared. Thanks again. Dave, Beachmere, Australia
Very nice to watch your process. Anyone that enjoys hand crafting projects cringed at the breaking of the pen!! Been there many times and it's never fun. Thank you so much for the vid.
Another excellent video my friend! I'm sorry you lost the pen blank but we've all been there, that's for sure! When I first started with CA glue process, I didn't sand the ends of the tubes well enough so at assembly it cracked straight up the tube, destroying the pen blank! I enjoy your videos, they are very well done and I'm also glad you show your failures as well. Always nice to know others have the same issues as I do sometimes!
Hey, Ive just started getting into pen turning and still have to turn my first.. So.... all the beautiful completed pens on here I was loosing a little confidence so the fact that you included "one of those days" then I will not take it too hard if (when) mine go wrong.. THe finish was amazing so will check it back out when I am ready.. thank you
I have used your basic ca procedure with polyurethane. It does work. When I say polyurethane, I mean the real stuff with at least 50% oil. Thanks for the video, I just subscribed!
Dang! The finish looked great! Keep up the good work..
Thanks Holly!
Well, the finish looked great. I'm going to have to try the Mercury Flex and the buffing system. I am now using Stickfast and finishing with Plastex after micro mesh. Thanks for sharing!!!
~Scott
Stickfast is one of the brands that will crack. I've lost two pens so far with the stickfast finish.
Well that sucks! Sorry about the break it was really beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for sharing this video had a lot of good information.
You're welcome Eddie, thanks for watching!
By the way,, I got your Shop Sticker, I'll be sending one your way soon.
Thanks again!
Michael
I really enjoyed this video and found Iam doing many of the same things you are doing. One thing I would have done differently is I would have also micro mesh sanded the acrylic blank to make the acrylic shine, before applying the CA glue layers. You might need to let the wood part of the blank dry first but it seems that putting a clear CA finish on a polished blank is going to look even better than putting it on one that is rough sanded. I will try it and see if there is a difference.
Man, I hate when that happens. Was a beautiful blank. You can still save the other end a make something. Thanks for sharing.
You mention being limited on space (for your pen press), I came up with a really elegant solution in my shop. I have a spot between the doors of my tall cabinet the same width as the press, so I mounted it there. It is a LOT easier to use vertically, and takes up no usable space whatsoever. It could be mounted to the side of the cabinet or wall as well.
I feel your pain about it breaking right at the end, it has happened to me a time or two as well. At least you got the point of the video across, though, which is how you finish with CA.
The process I use is identical to Michael. Down to applying thin CA to the blank and medium to the paper towel. The only difference is prior to using the buffing wheel I will apply a plastic polish while still on the lathe. I am unsure if it really makes a difference just what I do.
Oh NOOOOO!!! I've had that happen too and it's devastating! Thanks for the tips though, keep turnin'!!!
well done Mike ... hate the ending but that is the way we all get tested to see if we are doing what we love :)
keep it up getting better with the camera stuff as well ... keep it growing buddy
Thanks John! New developments this week in the camera department, so stay tuned :)
Thank you!
Great info. Nice job
Thank you!
I liked the video and what I learned from it. The music in the background was entirely too repetitive, it would be suitable with no unnecessary music and just you giving instructions.
Heartbreaking! But thanks for sharing your techniques on the CA finishing :)
Man loved the blank. We’ve all been there. Would like to find that color combo.
Things happen, you just keep going. Good video.
Murphy's Law at its best. Thanks for showing the fail as I know we all get them. I use a plastic polish at the very end to get a really nice gloss finish.
I've been doing that myself as well. I should probably do another CA video as my process has changed. there's just so many ways to do it, no one way is really the best
Great buddy. I learned a lot. Specially that masters can also make mistakes. I feel so much better now. That’s the way the cookie crumbles kkkkk. Thanks 🙏🏼
Bummer! Lot of time and effort. Thanks for sharing.
Just part of the game Jim :)
Thanks for watching!
What paper towels do you use to avoid ca chemical reaction? I stopped using paper and started using ca and a nitrile glove but it’s not always as smooth as paper. Great video and thanks!
Things like this and pottery seem theraputic to me. Id love to have my own shop designated to this type of work. I have no clue where to even start building a shop though lol.
Nice vid full of good info. Alas couldn't see through your hands assembling the pen. Sorry to see the failure at the end.
To add to my comment, So i have found i get a better finish on the pens,if I leave it to cure overnight before I do the final sanding, and polishing. Hope this helps.
CA finish looks really good but can you also apply laser engraving on pens with CA finish?
Great video, thanks for posting. Going to try my first ca finish soon. Also, I say kudos for showing the fail. It happens, and most wouldn’t have shown it! One quick question.....What rpm do you usually buff at?
Hi Wesley!
I'm usually around 1500 rpm when I buff.
Thanks for watching!
Michael
You champered the brass tubes right? I blew out a real Rattle Snake blank pressing the fittings in... I think I said the same thing.
Michael, thanks for the video. Did you use CA or 2-part epoxy for the tube glue up? Also, was that Abranet 600 grit you used to cut down the peaks? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and method.
I had used CA on this blank, but I am permanently switching to 5 minute epoxy after this. More open time gives you more time to spread it around the tube once inserted into the blank.
Sorry - I forgot to add that the sanding paper was Woodcraft's version of Abranet
Any suggestions, my lathe only goes to 500 rpm
AS for getting CA on your shirt. When it happens it becomes a work shirt. I have a few new T shirts that became "work shirts". By the way I have made 30 pens and I have had 2 disasters. It is all part of the learning process.Have a great day.
Doesn’t seem like the brass tube was scratched up enough before gluing inside the blank?
I have a 6 pound 95% solid black piece of Ebony 8 1/2" by 8 1/2" by 2 1/2" thick. In your opinion do you think it would be a waste to use it all to make pens
You started with how many thins ?? them how many med ??
I like to use the blue, lint free paper towels. They can be bought at auto part stores or harbor freight. Especially good when applying CA so you don't get fibers stuck in the finish.
Bummer that the blank broke. It really looked great.
I've long since switch to those towels. A little pricey compared to the white ones, but a big headache saver!
@@LostRiverWoodShop true that on the price. Have you tried harbor freight? They even have a jumbo size and they sell a wall mounted dispenser
Ah, HF is an hour and a half away, so I have to plan my trips there.
@@LostRiverWoodShop ahh, well it's definitely not worth burning a half tank of gas for!
How does the Mercury thin compare to the Starbond thin CA ?
If you have a lathe that only goes down to about 600 RPM, do you recommend applying CA without the lathe on and hand spinning the lathe, or turn on the lathe at the lowest speed and apply CA anyway?
I used to run my old lathe to apply the thin coats, after that, spin by hand to apply the medium. it gives you more time to work with it that way.
A practiced hand can apply CA at almost any speed, but @Lost River Wood Shop is absolutely right, the lower the speed the more working time you have. I've gotten myself into trouble applying CA at 1200 RPM. Most of the time it turns out fine but you have less than a couple seconds of working time with the glue. I find that higher RPMs and quick thin coats provides less hills and valleys to be sanded off, but i've also had my papertowel glued to a blank and flinging wildly around my mandrel. To each their own haha.
@@joewilson2271 Yep, lol. I stopped applying CA at speeds over 1000 when a drop spun off and hit my eyelid. I reflexively brought my hand up to wipe it away. I spent the next half hour getting my finger unglued to my eyelid. Lots of fun. I had to use fine drops of lemon juice because I didn't want acetone to get in my eyeball accidentally. That story would sell protective eye gear for sure.
@@shanelw28 well that seals the deal, I am now wearing my eye protection when applying CA.
Too bad about the fail. Thanks for showing, too many wouldn't have shown it.
Where did you get your buffing wheels from?
I picked those up at Harbor freight
what lathe speed did turn the acrlic
Where do you get your tapered Nylon Bushings,??? ... THANKS
Rockler, Woodcraft, PSI, Woodturningz.com, Amazon.com, they are just about anywhere you can get pen making supplies.
Can you pls post a link for the type of pen press you use....THANKS!!!
You probably have it figured out by now. Appears to be a Milescraft 4700. Link: www.amazon.com/Milescraft-4700-Turners-Joining-Projects/dp/B005QU98G6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544156750&sr=8-3&keywords=pen+press
How long did you let the CA 'set' before smoothing out with micro-mesh?
using accelerator is pretty much instantaneous. I'd say at most there was a five minute lag between coating and finishing - and that was mostly the prep time getting everything set like the water, drop clothes, micro mesh, etc.
You should use a stronger glue to glue your tubes in,and give it time to set properly, also super glue has a set time, (which is usually minutes,) and a cure time (which is usually 24 hours )or over night
Agreed, I'm switching to epoxy to glue in the tubes. That alone would have saved every headache on this project.
Thanks. too bad about the broken sleeve!
Well... it looks to me like your process produces broken blanks!! Just kidding, any of us who have been making pens for a while has experienced that. I like your method for removing the "peaks" and leveling the surface. I've always been kind of nervous sanding with anything more aggressive than micromesh after CA application, but I might have to give it a try. Thanks for the video!
I suppose it does :D
On the flip side though, I do have some great looking pens that made the
cut.
Be sure to use the finest grit you have, that way you don't remove too
much CA at one time - it will save you a ton of time in your micro mesh
step.
Mike
I'm relatively new to turning pens (or anything else on the lathe, for that matter) and I like your process. I have about 10 pens to turn for Christmas gifts, so we'll see how it goes. I'll take a look at the Mercury website since my CA supply is a bit low. Thanks for the demo~!
Where can I get those delron bushings?
You can get those an Rockler, or just about any online turning supplier.
When pressing the pen parts together you can't see anything since your arms are in the way
WOULD YOU PLEASE SHARE THE MAKE AND MODEL OF YOUR LATHE, THE CHUCK, ETC?
That is a Jet 1221VS lathe with a Nova G3 chuck
Do you you micromesh after each coat of CA?
No, you only need to MM after all layers have been applied.
Thank you for showing a failure. It's humbling and still leaves ambition to make them.
newbe what sort of dye do we use . thanks in advance
If you are using alumilite, there are dyes sold by them specifically for alumilite clear and clear slow. You can also use alcohol based inks. Do not use acrylics or anything water based unless you are using and epoxy or polyester resin.
@@LostRiverWoodShop thanks for replying just like trying anything new it seem s so much to take in . some dyes seem for sale in usa but not here in england
does this work on wood as well? Btw appreciate the well trimmed fingernails :)
Yes, this works on any wood, but if it has a high resin content (rosewood, cocobola, etc.) then wipe it down with DNA prior to the first coat of CA.
Lost River Wood Shop thank you for the quick reply
What lathe do you turn on?
I currently use a Jet 1221VS
Love your work, excellent videos. Shame about the pen.
Thanks Rex!
And wear eye pro.
Going to the ER with CA in your eye is something you will remember for the rest of your life.
I feel your pain...
Well that's heartbreaking. So sorry.
Ah, it comes with the territory :D
That sucks when they break
bummer~
You are definitely making everybody think it is harder than it really is I’ve been doing it for a number of years and I’ve never had any of the problems you have and I put the CA glue on at a much higher RPM than you do and it does not get hot enough to cause any problems
That's great to hear Ron! Care to put up a video to show your process?
I found this to be very helpful. I have struggled with CA finish and this video helped solve the problems I was having. CA finish is easy, if you have a climate controlled workshop. Working in 90 degree heat with 90% humidity... not so easy. The end was heartbreaking, but it happens to everyone.
great how-to but please stop with the background music or at least turn it down.
Pura mierda. 1 minute into the video, I went to another video, the music was distracting.