Awesome job!🤗looks really amazing, it’s really coming together 😊you don’t need to apologise do it in your own time, we’re just along for the awesome ride 😊👌🏻
Hi there, thank you for the comment. Yep im going a wee bit slower now, as is always the way motivation comes and goes on projects. We will get there in the end! By the end it won't me much different to how long it took H&W to build the real Titanic!
Haha hi John, Thank you, it’s a bit of a tricky thing finding these obscure facts. But I now have a good book on the subject of the Olympic class so hopefully it’s gets easier. Ah I doubt it will be 20 years! Hope Olympic is going well! Cheers, Robbie
Das Festhalten kleiner Teile mit blue-tack ist schon eine gute Sache, vor Allem, wenn man Gitter oder so sicher halten möchte. Es gibt aber noch etwas "Besseres" : Vor kurzem kaufte ich bei Amazon eine Art Bleistift, dessen Mine allerdings aus einer Wachsart besteht. Man kann ihn spitzen und die Spitze nimmt auch die allerkleinsten Teile schon bei leichtem Antippen sicher auf und man kann das Teil quasi wie auf einer Nadelspitze drehen und wenden, wie man es braucht, sicher abzulegen ist es auch, alles löst sich einwandfrei ! Gestern habe ich noch Augen ( Abziehbilder ! ) in 1:48 ( Superwinzig !!! ) damit sicher und sauber plaziert. Versuchen sie es doch auch einmal, es ist wirklich eine tolle Erleichterung. Diese Stifte werden von Leuten gebraucht, die Schmuck usw. herstellen und selbst allerkleinste Glitzer aufbringen ... auch ein ausgefallenes Hobby
Excellent work as always! Regarding the possibility of a forward facing door on the elevator winch housing, I'd suggest looking at pictures of Titanic's wreck. I only did a cursory search so I cant confirm whether or not the door exists but I can confirm the winch housing is still intact (the deck below it has collapsed and the winch housing is sitting partially inside the 2nd class entrance). Perhaps there is a photo or video from a wreck dive that shows this area more closely and whether or not there is door in that location.
Just checked my copy of Titanic: the Ship Magnificent and there are two doors 1 forward and 1 aft on the elevator machinery room on Olympic. Both of them would not have a window. They would be identical to the doors on the deck house at the base of the funnels to crew only spaces. Hope this helps!
For the research you could always look at photos of Titanic's sister ship Olympic. Its always a good bet when Titanic herself isn't helping much. Besides being such a minor detail they were probably the same on both ships.
Just something that I found out the the Engineers smoke room ,officers mess room, navigation bridge roof, wing cab roofs, lift room roof and the dog kennels at the back of the fourth funnel were all waterproofed with canvas over steel and wood and then painted a light grey to reflect light to keep these rooms cool
Hey shipmate, I think you are right to go down the no 'port hole' road for that door... Peter Davies-Garners book on p.122 doesnt show one in his plans for the model he built, i can have a trawl through my copy of the Ship Magnificent if you like (that book is highly recommended btw, i think you would really enjoy it!) Keep up the good work! 🙂
Amazing as always! I wanted to ask for a long time, are the funnels on the model at random or are they in the correct order? :D The 3rd funnel seems to be somehow the shortest, even tho it was the tallest funnel. :)
Aah I am hoping to get some of the China 3D funnels which I will use on the model. So for now I am just putting random funnels in positions just to give the idea of the ships silhouette. I’ll pay more attention to the correct funnel placement when I start thinking carefully about gluing them down 😛
stumbled across your channel and have watched all on the titanic series! absolutely amazing build so far! I'm have experience in building airfix models but haven't built any in some time just wondering if I have the skill to attempt this model 😮 looks fantastic along with all upgrade pieces!
Thanks for the comment, im glad you're enjoying the videos. I think a lot of the skills for an Airfix kit will be transferable to this. If you were able to do Airfix this isn't really any different. The questions to ask yourself are: - Do you have the patients to keep going? Its a long old build (I am proof of that). - Do you have the space!
For holding the deck house down in a non permanent way, have you considered a threaded bolt that goes up through the elevator winch housing to hold down the main part of the deckhouse, and then using a small neodymium magnet to hold the winch room on top? And in regards to the possibility of a second door, Vasilije Ristovic just released a brand new render of the area which indeed shows a door (and ladder!) on the forward end of the winch housing. Another big question is weather or not the awnings over the doors had wooden decking ontop.
Hi chris, I have done pretty much exactly as you describe actually. In the end I concluded i needed LEDs inside the stairwell and therefore needed access so I bolted through what would be the lift shaft and have attached the machinery room with magnets. I haven’t seen the latest renderings from Vasilije as yet, they have been my guide for a lot of this build so I will have to keep my eyes open for them. And yes I wasn’t 100% sure about the decking or grey paint for the floors, another typical titanic mystery that may never be solved! I think wooden decking on the first level with grey at the top seems logical to me, but who knows for sure! I hope you’re keeping alright? Thank you for the comment as always good advice 🙂
My knowledge of ship models (or models in general) is limited to having watched your videos, and one thing that I did have a question about was that every detail put into this model really does the scale justice, though when you trialled it on the lake, it moves through the water very fast. Would you ever consider (assuming there is a way of doing so) limiting the speed of the motors so that there's the illusion of scaled weight as well? If that makes sense?
Garry, you can get very good motors with a reduction gear, gear box. They are not expensive but can be a little noisy. I have some with an RP Minute of 30 which is much too slow for a working model but adequate for a display version. Coupled with a variable speed controller a higher RPM version would be more realistic for a working model albeit a bit slow!
@@johnnyhollis9977 It just seems a bit of a waste to have such beautiful scaled models and then see them whizzing around like speedboats. Would that technology allow you to adjust the speed to look more realistic when sailing? I was thinking of getting into the whole model boat thing, that's the only reason I ask.
@@thernotsoealmackay Good for you Garry, a model ship is a great hobby and can be very rewarding. Yes a perfect model can still look a bit odd sometimes bobbing about even at a low speed. Real ships as you probably know can take an age to get anywhere, especially if they are not built for speed. Film prop models are usually made really large to combat the bobbing effect and of course slow motion works too. However it is possible to get a reasonably good effect from a larger model if you have the space for such a vessel. Obviously 1/200 is quite big enough for a lot of modellers to tackle. Take a look at some model ships on YTube to start with. I am no expert as I prefer museum static models but it's all a matter of taste and interest. A working model does introduce another dimension to the hobby though. I am sure that you will do okay with it! 😉
@@johnnyhollis9977 I've always been really interested in Titanic, so watched a lot of the BTS videos of various models made for the various movies etc, (can't believe the 'Raise the Titanic' model was over 50ft long to account for water scale), then found this project and binge watched the videos in a single sitting. It'll be a long time before I tackle anything major, so I'm just watching different projects and different techniques etc. If I do eventually finish a RC model, I'll make sure it doesn't take 8 days to cross a pond though 😄
Wouldn't the blueprints show if there were 2 doors on the elevator maintenance room? Also, (too late now, I know), but instead of alot of the black rubber strips you used to remediate the vibration issues, you could have used rubberized foam seal tape strips. Not sure what all is likely to be stocked in England vs here in the states, but it's commonly used to further seal windows, door jambs, window air-conditioning units/etc.
Yeah blueprints would have told me, but i couldn’t find any for that level. Aye we have that foam stuff in the U.K. use it for similar things really, yeah that would certainly reduce vibration further, but I wonder if it might the too squashy? Id be interested to see if it’s good, have you used it with good results
@@TheModelBoatGuy I have, actually. Depending on the particular application, the non-rubber foam will work pretty well also. Thanks for your reply, though! You've done an excellent engineering job with that ship!
Hi Robbie how did you fix the motors into the hull i not sure I'm want to superglue them in on the rubber mats so i am curious as to how you fixed yours in
I bonded mine with resin, so mine are a permanent bond. I mean what you could do if you didn’t want to bond them like that is use some countersunk bolts from under the hull (so the heads are concealed in the countersink). Then add some anti vibration nuts above to secure them. That would give you the ability to remove them, and you could maybe cover the bolt heads with car body filler to make them invisible. Then when you want to remove you scrape the body filler away and undo them?
Hello! I have one, which I will be giving away on the 50th episode. I did a similar give away a few episodes back so it will be much the same idea, answer a question and if you win I’ll send you it. Keep your eyes peeled for it 🙂
Yes I agree, that is about the only reason I can think of for two doors! Someone has sent me an extract from a modelling book on titanic that shows two so perhaps there were two. As I say it’s an easy thing to add in! Thank you for the comment though, I will be adding a door on the other side for the next video 🙂
Have you considered using Neodymium magnets for attaching the on-deck buildings to allow ongoing access to maintain lights? You can get some 3mm diameter and 1mm thick magnets with 0.19kg pull strength which would likely be enough for a strong attachment (especially if you do 2 per building. You can attach one under the deck with the corresponding reversed pole above attached to the building. Just a thought! Great modelling though
I am going to use some magnets to hold the boat deck down onto A deck beneath it. Just because they have a bit more stuff to be hidden by one deck down if you know what I mean. That way I can easily remove the boat deck, and turn it upside down to access the deck housing. The main reason I want to permanently glue the boat deck housings down is because the funnels have loads of guy ropes etc that will get damaged if the housings move!
@@robertnicholls2316 got it, thank you so much for that. The other illustrations of the deck housings will be useful too when the time comes! Much appreciated 🙂
Awesome job!🤗looks really amazing, it’s really coming together 😊you don’t need to apologise do it in your own time, we’re just along for the awesome ride 😊👌🏻
Hi there, thank you for the comment. Yep im going a wee bit slower now, as is always the way motivation comes and goes on projects. We will get there in the end! By the end it won't me much different to how long it took H&W to build the real Titanic!
Finally caught up have loved watching all the videos you have done.
Thank you for your comment! Glad you’re liking the series 🙂
Excellent Robbie, your efforts are a great precursor to my efforts to come in about 20 years time!!! Regards JH 😉
Haha hi John,
Thank you, it’s a bit of a tricky thing finding these obscure facts. But I now have a good book on the subject of the Olympic class so hopefully it’s gets easier. Ah I doubt it will be 20 years!
Hope Olympic is going well!
Cheers,
Robbie
I really admire your patience.
Das Festhalten kleiner Teile mit blue-tack ist schon eine gute Sache, vor Allem, wenn man Gitter oder so sicher halten möchte. Es gibt aber noch etwas "Besseres" : Vor kurzem kaufte ich bei Amazon eine Art Bleistift, dessen Mine allerdings aus einer Wachsart besteht. Man kann ihn spitzen und die Spitze nimmt auch die allerkleinsten Teile schon bei leichtem Antippen sicher auf und man kann das Teil quasi wie auf einer Nadelspitze drehen und wenden, wie man es braucht, sicher abzulegen ist es auch, alles löst sich einwandfrei ! Gestern habe ich noch Augen ( Abziehbilder ! ) in 1:48 ( Superwinzig !!! ) damit sicher und sauber plaziert. Versuchen sie es doch auch einmal, es ist wirklich eine tolle Erleichterung. Diese Stifte werden von Leuten gebraucht, die Schmuck usw. herstellen und selbst allerkleinste Glitzer aufbringen ... auch ein ausgefallenes Hobby
Excellent work as always! Regarding the possibility of a forward facing door on the elevator winch housing, I'd suggest looking at pictures of Titanic's wreck. I only did a cursory search so I cant confirm whether or not the door exists but I can confirm the winch housing is still intact (the deck below it has collapsed and the winch housing is sitting partially inside the 2nd class entrance). Perhaps there is a photo or video from a wreck dive that shows this area more closely and whether or not there is door in that location.
Great video as always many thanks
No worries 🙂
Just checked my copy of Titanic: the Ship Magnificent and there are two doors 1 forward and 1 aft on the elevator machinery room on Olympic. Both of them would not have a window. They would be identical to the doors on the deck house at the base of the funnels to crew only spaces. Hope this helps!
Thank you for the comment, I really should buy the TTSM book!
For the research you could always look at photos of Titanic's sister ship Olympic. Its always a good bet when Titanic herself isn't helping much. Besides being such a minor detail they were probably the same on both ships.
Just something that I found out the the Engineers smoke room ,officers mess room, navigation bridge roof, wing cab roofs, lift room roof and the dog kennels at the back of the fourth funnel were all waterproofed with canvas over steel and wood and then painted a light grey to reflect light to keep these rooms cool
Hey shipmate, I think you are right to go down the no 'port hole' road for that door... Peter Davies-Garners book on p.122 doesnt show one in his plans for the model he built, i can have a trawl through my copy of the Ship Magnificent if you like (that book is highly recommended btw, i think you would really enjoy it!)
Keep up the good work! 🙂
Sucked in like a crisp packet! Brilliant line 👌
Why thank you! I was recording that bit and suddenly realised crisp packets didn’t exist in 1912! Oh well I guess the idea makes sense
Amazing as always! I wanted to ask for a long time, are the funnels on the model at random or are they in the correct order? :D The 3rd funnel seems to be somehow the shortest, even tho it was the tallest funnel. :)
Aah I am hoping to get some of the China 3D funnels which I will use on the model. So for now I am just putting random funnels in positions just to give the idea of the ships silhouette.
I’ll pay more attention to the correct funnel placement when I start thinking carefully about gluing them down 😛
stumbled across your channel and have watched all on the titanic series! absolutely amazing build so far! I'm have experience in building airfix models but haven't built any in some time just wondering if I have the skill to attempt this model 😮 looks fantastic along with all upgrade pieces!
Thanks for the comment, im glad you're enjoying the videos. I think a lot of the skills for an Airfix kit will be transferable to this. If you were able to do Airfix this isn't really any different.
The questions to ask yourself are:
- Do you have the patients to keep going? Its a long old build (I am proof of that).
- Do you have the space!
@@TheModelBoatGuy oh I definitely have the patience just wondering if skill is beyond me and ha I'll find space don't worry 🤣
For holding the deck house down in a non permanent way, have you considered a threaded bolt that goes up through the elevator winch housing to hold down the main part of the deckhouse, and then using a small neodymium magnet to hold the winch room on top?
And in regards to the possibility of a second door, Vasilije Ristovic just released a brand new render of the area which indeed shows a door (and ladder!) on the forward end of the winch housing.
Another big question is weather or not the awnings over the doors had wooden decking ontop.
Hi chris,
I have done pretty much exactly as you describe actually. In the end I concluded i needed LEDs inside the stairwell and therefore needed access so I bolted through what would be the lift shaft and have attached the machinery room with magnets.
I haven’t seen the latest renderings from Vasilije as yet, they have been my guide for a lot of this build so I will have to keep my eyes open for them.
And yes I wasn’t 100% sure about the decking or grey paint for the floors, another typical titanic mystery that may never be solved! I think wooden decking on the first level with grey at the top seems logical to me, but who knows for sure!
I hope you’re keeping alright? Thank you for the comment as always good advice 🙂
Look for a photo of the stern wreck. It seem that it had a door to the opposite side of the engine room.
My knowledge of ship models (or models in general) is limited to having watched your videos, and one thing that I did have a question about was that every detail put into this model really does the scale justice, though when you trialled it on the lake, it moves through the water very fast. Would you ever consider (assuming there is a way of doing so) limiting the speed of the motors so that there's the illusion of scaled weight as well? If that makes sense?
Garry, you can get very good motors with a reduction gear, gear box. They are not expensive but can be a little noisy. I have some with an RP Minute of 30 which is much too slow for a working model but adequate for a display version. Coupled with a variable speed controller a higher RPM version would be more realistic for a working model albeit a bit slow!
@@johnnyhollis9977 It just seems a bit of a waste to have such beautiful scaled models and then see them whizzing around like speedboats. Would that technology allow you to adjust the speed to look more realistic when sailing? I was thinking of getting into the whole model boat thing, that's the only reason I ask.
@@thernotsoealmackay Good for you Garry, a model ship is a great hobby and can be very rewarding. Yes a perfect model can still look a bit odd sometimes bobbing about even at a low speed.
Real ships as you probably know can take an age to get anywhere, especially if they are not built for speed. Film prop models are usually made really large to combat the bobbing effect and of course slow motion works too. However it is possible to get a reasonably good effect from a larger model if you have the space for such a vessel. Obviously 1/200 is quite big enough for a lot of modellers to tackle. Take a look at some model ships on YTube to start with. I am no expert as I prefer museum static models but it's all a matter of taste and interest. A working model does introduce another dimension to the hobby though. I am sure that you will do okay with it! 😉
@@johnnyhollis9977 I've always been really interested in Titanic, so watched a lot of the BTS videos of various models made for the various movies etc, (can't believe the 'Raise the Titanic' model was over 50ft long to account for water scale), then found this project and binge watched the videos in a single sitting. It'll be a long time before I tackle anything major, so I'm just watching different projects and different techniques etc. If I do eventually finish a RC model, I'll make sure it doesn't take 8 days to cross a pond though 😄
@@thernotsoealmackay You could start with a power boat!😂
Wouldn't the blueprints show if there were 2 doors on the elevator maintenance room?
Also, (too late now, I know), but instead of alot of the black rubber strips you used to remediate the vibration issues, you could have used rubberized foam seal tape strips. Not sure what all is likely to be stocked in England vs here in the states, but it's commonly used to further seal windows, door jambs, window air-conditioning units/etc.
Yeah blueprints would have told me, but i couldn’t find any for that level.
Aye we have that foam stuff in the U.K. use it for similar things really, yeah that would certainly reduce vibration further, but I wonder if it might the too squashy? Id be interested to see if it’s good, have you used it with good results
@@TheModelBoatGuy I have, actually. Depending on the particular application, the non-rubber foam will work pretty well also.
Thanks for your reply, though! You've done an excellent engineering job with that ship!
Hi Robbie how did you fix the motors into the hull i not sure I'm want to superglue them in on the rubber mats so i am curious as to how you fixed yours in
I bonded mine with resin, so mine are a permanent bond.
I mean what you could do if you didn’t want to bond them like that is use some countersunk bolts from under the hull (so the heads are concealed in the countersink). Then add some anti vibration nuts above to secure them. That would give you the ability to remove them, and you could maybe cover the bolt heads with car body filler to make them invisible. Then when you want to remove you scrape the body filler away and undo them?
@@TheModelBoatGuy thanks Rob not sure about drilling the hull may raise them by 3mm and scew them through the rubber and a 3mm wooden plate yes ?
Hi there just an off chance , do you still have a spare china 3 d hatch cover mine has been badly damaged in a workshop accident and is unusable ???
Hello! I have one, which I will be giving away on the 50th episode. I did a similar give away a few episodes back so it will be much the same idea, answer a question and if you win I’ll send you it.
Keep your eyes peeled for it 🙂
A good reason to have a door on both sides would be to have easy access to both sides of the motor if the space inside was too cramped.
Yes I agree, that is about the only reason I can think of for two doors! Someone has sent me an extract from a modelling book on titanic that shows two so perhaps there were two. As I say it’s an easy thing to add in!
Thank you for the comment though, I will be adding a door on the other side for the next video 🙂
which type of led light you will use and where did you buy it from ?
Check the video description
Have you considered using Neodymium magnets for attaching the on-deck buildings to allow ongoing access to maintain lights? You can get some 3mm diameter and 1mm thick magnets with 0.19kg pull strength which would likely be enough for a strong attachment (especially if you do 2 per building. You can attach one under the deck with the corresponding reversed pole above attached to the building. Just a thought! Great modelling though
I am going to use some magnets to hold the boat deck down onto A deck beneath it. Just because they have a bit more stuff to be hidden by one deck down if you know what I mean. That way I can easily remove the boat deck, and turn it upside down to access the deck housing.
The main reason I want to permanently glue the boat deck housings down is because the funnels have loads of guy ropes etc that will get damaged if the housings move!
I have a drawing from Cyril Codus showing two doors
Pm
Me and I can send it to you
Hello,
Thank you for your help, could you email them to me?
Themodelboatguy@gmail.com
Thank you!
Sent
@@robertnicholls2316 got it, thank you so much for that. The other illustrations of the deck housings will be useful too when the time comes! Much appreciated 🙂