This is an amazing model. I subscribed and will try to buy this kit one day, using your videos as great reference material. I hope my children will take part in helping me. It seems like it would be a great project for the family that can be done over several months, or over a year as it is so huge. The Titanic has fascinated me since grade 2. Approximately 30 years back. You are doing an amazing job, your work ethics are superb. Your advice and videos are almost like ASMR. It is very soothing when I see you working so hard on your ship because as of now I havn't the model. I never knew this came so detailed. I know you have mentioned printing templates out and improvising in areas where things should be and letting us know the stuff that can be left out as it is not going to be seen. Thanks for all your hard work in creating these videos all whilst creating the most detailed Titanic model out there / available. After all, you have customized this. In all the right ways ... 👍 ...
Hi there, thank you for your comment, sorry its taken me so long to respond! Brilliant project to get the kids involved in. My interest in modelling started because I damaged a wooden toy boat I had been given as a birthday present. So my father took me to the model shop, and we bought some paints, brushes and glue and fixed it together. And he really lived to regret getting me interested in modelling :P Yes when you get the kit all the print outs etc (and details of the add on bits and bobs I have used) are all in the video descriptions. Good luck with it when you start! keep safe and well, Robbie
I like the frosted acrylic idea! I'm sure that during the Voyage, especially on the night of April 14th, the temperature difference on the inside and out would have caused condensation on the windows as well and given off this look, even if you're setting the time to be midday. It's a great idea and I will probably incorporate that once my model arrives in the mail. Great work :)
Hi Rob. This is all looking rather good isn't it, so great job my man! Obviously your model has more complex areas because of the need for access so great work so far. I agree the ceiling light leakage could be solved with the drop down screens attached to the underside of the floor above. There were ceiling lights out on deck too so if you are considering those they could in theory blot out any other leakage but the screening may still be a good idea. The tiny LED's are a nice touch so I may well get some of those eventually and mix them with Fibre Op's where just a tiny light is needed. That may have been the way to get those lights over the doors but your model is already bulging with electronics as it is! I am busy making one hell of a mess sanding down the hull butchery that I inflicted. Bloody hard work but very effective! I am experimenting with getting the replacement shell plating to look exactly like the real thing using some very thin plastic card. Fortunately I have a cupboard full of donated polystyrene sheeting to last me a life time! The frosted plastic to defuse the light is a great way to soften over keen lighting from overwhelming areas. Anyway great job so far, take your time. All good here apart from the mess I am making! Stay safe. Regards JH :-)
@@TheModelBoatGuy yes, plenty of pictures and maps here, www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235083396-ss-nomadic-titanics-little-sister-1200-3d-design/ , and there’s some video tours of it too
@@TheModelBoatGuy i didn't think of that at first but know I am 😂 no but I just meant good job im currently working on the same model and ur videos help a lot.
I would try a match stick or plastic card strip templatted round the ceiling of the room this ways it should hopefully solve the light bleed by creating shadow also will blend in and act as out coving
Aah that’s a bind. Though I actually decided in the end that magnetic connectors weren’t the way to go! So I replaced mine with a sprung set. See this video for them: th-cam.com/video/qxtOqdEg2L4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4DpriM-asD6NSRXP
Hello, I know im quite late to the electronic bit, but I was referring back to your electronics explanation video for a school project and recognized that you didn't include those RC components. Are you able to explain a little more as to how they play into the initial circuit you explained? It would really help me out!
I have a question ⁉️🤓 I'm close to building D deck and soon after I have to add the superstructure. Can you explain how You did this ? I mean, deck to one superstructure and then to another ? On the table or in the model to get the perfect fit?
Are you using the lighting kit included with the kit? If so, how have you illuminated the area under the forecastle and poop deck and forward part of C deck? I've been looking over the lighting instructions and the kit doesn't seem to reach those areas.
I’m not no, I’ve used a different LED strip because I wanted something waterproof. I have added some lighting in the hull and drilled out portholes which has allowed me to illuminate the underside of the poop deck and the forecastle
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yeah, I drilled out the portholes too. Its just that the well deck overhangs so much that its really hard to get light on top of it. Same goes for the forward part of the C-Deck superstructure.
I actually might like your idea of mounting the SMD's inside the walls with a hole in the wall representing the deck light instead of what I have been doing. Namely mounting a 402 SMD on the outside of the wall to serve as the deck light and than run the small wires through the wall.
There are some benefits to my thinking and some to yours I suspect! I think the problem I will encounter is light bleed around the LEDs within the deck houses, which your method avoids. But the reason I did my LEDs inside the walls is because if they shine through a hole they dont cast as much light over the deck so it limits their reach, which makes them look a bit less powerful. To be honest I don’t think there is a right or wrong way on this one!
@@TheModelBoatGuy I agree. Whatever works for the modeler is the best for him. When I did my first tests with the SMD's sitting on the deck walls they were indeed to bright when run at their normal voltage of 3 to 3.2 V. By experimenting with different resistors I found that running the SMD's at around 2.65V reduced the brightness to a reasonable level. This was achieved by using a 1.5k ohm resistor with 6 SMD's wired in parallel.
Hello, Those were 0.9mm drills. If you scale it up to real life it works out at 180mm which is a reasonably size for the opening. These holes are covered by a small brass PE part so the size of the hole is relatively unimportant (within reason obviously! 1mm or 1.1 would be fine I’m sure)
This is an amazing model. I subscribed and will try to buy this kit one day, using your videos as great reference material. I hope my children will take part in helping me. It seems like it would be a great project for the family that can be done over several months, or over a year as it is so huge. The Titanic has fascinated me since grade 2. Approximately 30 years back. You are doing an amazing job, your work ethics are superb. Your advice and videos are almost like ASMR. It is very soothing when I see you working so hard on your ship because as of now I havn't the model. I never knew this came so detailed. I know you have mentioned printing templates out and improvising in areas where things should be and letting us know the stuff that can be left out as it is not going to be seen. Thanks for all your hard work in creating these videos all whilst creating the most detailed Titanic model out there / available. After all, you have customized this. In all the right ways ... 👍 ...
Hi there, thank you for your comment, sorry its taken me so long to respond!
Brilliant project to get the kids involved in. My interest in modelling started because I damaged a wooden toy boat I had been given as a birthday present. So my father took me to the model shop, and we bought some paints, brushes and glue and fixed it together. And he really lived to regret getting me interested in modelling :P
Yes when you get the kit all the print outs etc (and details of the add on bits and bobs I have used) are all in the video descriptions. Good luck with it when you start!
keep safe and well,
Robbie
You've done a hell of a job! I'm one of the people who wants a great Titanic!
Fantastic! I just love your interior details of the ala carte and cafe paresian!!! Great work and much appreciated to see!
Amazing work.
Good to see another vid mate! You are putting in serious work! Turning out great!
Lovely work, I'm taking notes for my build every episode!
Looking amazing just recieved my kit looking forward to taking your ideas on board keep up the fantastic work
Good luck with it, she’s a great model.
Thanks for you’re kind words
Having opened the box im beginning to appreciate the task ahead a quick query if i may did you manage to sell your spare wooden decking ?
Great work
Looks amazing 😍 greetings from Germany
I like the frosted acrylic idea! I'm sure that during the Voyage, especially on the night of April 14th, the temperature difference on the inside and out would have caused condensation on the windows as well and given off this look, even if you're setting the time to be midday. It's a great idea and I will probably incorporate that once my model arrives in the mail. Great work :)
Me too!
great work youv been working on it for over a year
I like the small details I like it :D
Loving the build and loving the videos, please, keep 'em coming bud ;-)
Hi Rob. This is all looking rather good isn't it, so great job my man! Obviously your model has more complex areas because of the need for access so great work so far.
I agree the ceiling light leakage could be solved with the drop down screens attached to the underside of the floor above. There were ceiling lights out on deck too so if you are considering those they could in theory blot out any other leakage but the screening may still be a good idea. The tiny LED's are a nice touch so I may well get some of those eventually and mix them with Fibre Op's where just a tiny light is needed. That may have been the way to get those lights over the doors but your model is already bulging with electronics as it is! I am busy making one hell of a mess sanding down the hull butchery that I inflicted. Bloody hard work but very effective! I am experimenting with getting the replacement shell plating to look exactly like the real thing using some very thin plastic card. Fortunately I have a cupboard full of donated polystyrene sheeting to last me a life time! The frosted plastic to defuse the light is a great way to soften over keen lighting from overwhelming areas. Anyway great job so far, take your time. All good here apart from the mess I am making! Stay safe. Regards JH :-)
Splendid work! Can’t wait to see it complete and on the water! Are you planning to have an rc SS Nomadic to go with it after?
If I can find some good plans of the SS Normandic sounds like a good project, do you know of such plans??
@@TheModelBoatGuy yes, plenty of pictures and maps here, www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235083396-ss-nomadic-titanics-little-sister-1200-3d-design/ , and there’s some video tours of it too
Good job!
Is that an Obi Wan reference! 😅
Thanks!
@@TheModelBoatGuy i didn't think of that at first but know I am 😂 no but I just meant good job im currently working on the same model and ur videos help a lot.
Unbelievable! Beautiful! Any way the table legs could be a little skinnier? Even fiddlyer? Is that a word?
Well there is a company called Maritime models that makes PE furniture, which is more fiddly again!
I would try a match stick or plastic card strip templatted round the ceiling of the room this ways it should hopefully solve the light bleed by creating shadow also will blend in and act as out coving
I have a question: where did you get all these furnitures :D ?
Hi Robbie! Fantastic work and videos! Unfortunately, the ebay-link to the magnetic connectors does not exist anymore... 😞
Aah that’s a bind. Though I actually decided in the end that magnetic connectors weren’t the way to go!
So I replaced mine with a sprung set. See this video for them:
th-cam.com/video/qxtOqdEg2L4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4DpriM-asD6NSRXP
love it
Hello, I know im quite late to the electronic bit, but I was referring back to your electronics explanation video for a school project and recognized that you didn't include those RC components. Are you able to explain a little more as to how they play into the initial circuit you explained? It would really help me out!
Could you have used a bead of black silicone on those light bleeds or would that have caused a different issue? The model is looking great.
Thank you very much, its very kind. For the led, SMD 0402 or 0603 ? Thank you
I tend to use 0402. There’s nothing much different on the 0603. 0603 is just slightly bigger!
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thank you for your answer. Its very kind ;-)
I have a question ⁉️🤓
I'm close to building D deck and soon after I have to add the superstructure. Can you explain how You did this ? I mean, deck to one superstructure and then to another ? On the table or in the model to get the perfect fit?
its sooo interesting
Are you using the lighting kit included with the kit? If so, how have you illuminated the area under the forecastle and poop deck and forward part of C deck? I've been looking over the lighting instructions and the kit doesn't seem to reach those areas.
I’m not no, I’ve used a different LED strip because I wanted something waterproof. I have added some lighting in the hull and drilled out portholes which has allowed me to illuminate the underside of the poop deck and the forecastle
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yeah, I drilled out the portholes too. Its just that the well deck overhangs so much that its really hard to get light on top of it. Same goes for the forward part of the C-Deck superstructure.
Where can you buy this model?
Can I have a link where I can get the printed floors for the interiors pls?
This is where I got mine from:
titanic-ma.weebly.com/floor-patterns.html?fbclid=IwAR0TA8LGGjujVAlYQKpfc6it__AQqAYcZlC3QU007DFjC8ZwXzoj1i8SD6Q
Can you make likeRooms like a lot of them down in one of them up
can i ask what Kelvin you LED's are?
Hey, i believe they are 2800k
I actually might like your idea of mounting the SMD's inside the walls with a hole in the wall representing the deck light instead of what I have been doing. Namely mounting a 402 SMD on the outside of the wall to serve as the deck light and than run the small wires through the wall.
There are some benefits to my thinking and some to yours I suspect! I think the problem I will encounter is light bleed around the LEDs within the deck houses, which your method avoids. But the reason I did my LEDs inside the walls is because if they shine through a hole they dont cast as much light over the deck so it limits their reach, which makes them look a bit less powerful.
To be honest I don’t think there is a right or wrong way on this one!
@@TheModelBoatGuy I agree. Whatever works for the modeler is the best for him. When I did my first tests with the SMD's sitting on the deck walls they were indeed to bright when run at their normal voltage of 3 to 3.2 V. By experimenting with different resistors I found that running the SMD's at around 2.65V reduced the brightness to a reasonable level. This was achieved by using a 1.5k ohm resistor with 6 SMD's wired in parallel.
Super 🤩luxus👍👍👍🇨🇿
Hello, how are you ? Could you give me the diameter of the drills to drill the portholes at 5mm57 and diameter of led please. Cordially,
Hello,
Those were 0.9mm drills. If you scale it up to real life it works out at 180mm which is a reasonably size for the opening. These holes are covered by a small brass PE part so the size of the hole is relatively unimportant (within reason obviously! 1mm or 1.1 would be fine I’m sure)
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thank you very much, its very kind. For the led, SMD 0402 or 0603 ? Thank you
FIRST COMMENT MAYBE
"She's a big boat eh?"