The lighting is really nicely distributed over the deck and is just the perfect ambience inside through the windows. Its coming along very nicely and I like many others keep looking forward to each episode. Merry Christmas 🎄🎉
I must say this is one of the most beautiful models out there of the Titanic. The amount of detail you put into this model is outstanding. Working on my own model now with the Scaledecks wooden decks. Those decks are fenomenal 🙂. Keep up the great work! So curious for the end result. I'm not able to add the interior of the ship like you did but I learned so much by watching your videos and I will put that knowledge into my model 🙂 it's a joy to watch your model! Thanks man! 🙂 and I wish you a happy newyear! 🥂👍
Looking great. I have a question you may be able to help me with, I need to know what motors/esc/battery combos would be suitable for a 1/350 USS Enterprise aircraft carrier?
Well I mean it rather depends on what you want to ship to do. I don’t know how many props Enterprise had but I tend to use one motor per prop. My preference on ships is to use gearing because if you sail through weeds, your motors can stall. And a DC motor pulls maximum current when they are stalled, so you run the risk of blowing fuses etc. Gearing increases torque which reduces the risk of a stall. But the other option is a higher power motor. Cornwall model boats has a great range of motors. ESCs is a whole rabbit hole of different things, but the Mtronics Viper marine range are excellent and cool proof. They come in different current capacities and you just need to match that to your motors. Batteries are rather defined by the type of ship you make. A speed boat or something would require a good current delivery but for an aircraft carrier I’m guessing you don’t want speed! Sealed Lead acids are cheap and robust, and are pretty safe, but they are heavy for the energy stored. Other batteries like LiPO are much lighter for their power density, so you can get a longer running time on your model. But they need to be looked after more carefully. I chose lead acids on my model because I like to be able to get the ship home from a sail, get the batteries on charge and sort of forget about it. You can’t really do that with more lipo or Lion batteries because they need to be carefully charged and stored. I’m not really making a recommendation here because it’s a question of taste, how you want your model to handle etc. But hopefully that’s a good set of suggestions.
I don’t think I will no, I think too much titanic will become a little bit boring for me. I’ll be making other kits for sure and might do another titanic model at some point in the future, but for now I’ll just watch other people make the hachettepart model 😀
Just one question...what is the color you used for the lines below the bridge? Don't know how to describe this. It's the line that is on cranelevel...where the loadinghatches are, the kinda orange/brownisch color. Hope you know what I mean? 😀 and did you varnash your wooden decks?
Hi there. Yeah I know the colour you mean. On white star ships this was known as Dark Mast, and predictably was used for masts and also lower sides of functional decks such as the well decks. I used Humbrol 63 for this which I think is called Sand. In reality my colour choice is perhaps a little bit light, it’s not such an issue on the well decks as there is enough shadow to darken how you perceive the colour, but on the masts they do look a wee bit light. However I like the colour as is so won’t change it! Yeah I sealed them with a matt varnish, Humbrol do a good enamel varnish range that has matt, satin and gloss in it, so I used those.
@@TheModelBoatGuy thank you so much for this advice 🙂! Going to look for the humbrol 63. I think it fits perfectly 🙂. Thanks again and have a good day! Grtz 🤟
Hello there shipmate! Just wanted to drop this little nugget in the comments...In episode 18 at 12:07 you said you used Humbrol 61 Flat Flesh as your dark mask colour... 🤨 I loved it so much I went and done all my dark mast parts on my 1/350 kit in H61... when did you change to H63?! 😧 I have read that a good choice for the funnel buff colour would be H63 with a dash of H34, which was apparantley a match to a tin straight from the MV Britannic... Another Titanic modeller, Jason King, uses Pantone 135. British Gulf Armour is another "off the shelf" tin I've seen used but cannot remember the brand, maybe model master or floquil I think... White Star Buff... what a can of worms that one is!! 😬(I think so long as they're not yellow or orange its all good!)
Hi there, you are correct! Since using this I have finished the tin of paint and chucked out so I was going from memory! You are quite correct though. The colour I used for dark mast was Humbrol 61 not Humbrol 63! Well spotted. Dark mast is one of those colours that is subject to so much debate you could use a lot of different colours and still argue your case! @themusiccomposer I hope you see this before you buy the paint, if not sorry. An honest mistake!
@@TheModelBoatGuy hi there 🙂 well I just read it haha. But it's not an issue. I already have painted it and I'm happy with how it looks. So I'm gonna stick with it I guess 😃 but thanks anyway! 🤟🤟
Hi model boat guy. just recieved my 1/200 scale titanic. one issue..... no rigging . how can a so detailed model not have a provision for the rigging ? any thoughts/
Hello, happy new year too! The motors I’ve used are these: www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mfa-950d61.html#SID=2421 They are relatively noisy but that can be dampened down with good mounting practice (a resilient floor beneath). I also had some success with a good silicone grease for noise reduction
HELP Hi i am following your build and doing exactly the same to mine running gears in all the electrics done apart from the key fob circuit breaker i can no longer access the show more show less part of your description so do not know what the part is or where to find one could you help please hope you had a great CXhristmas and are going to have a good Hogmanay
Hi there. Something like this will probably work: QIACHIP Universal Wireless Relay Module 12V 1CH Remote Control Light Switch Receiver RF 433 Mhz with 2 Smart Transmitters for Entrance Control, Car Light 164ft Long Range www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B081CD9GHD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_70M9FTZ14JDJE75RJ52K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 The one I bought is no longer available but this is similar. One thing to note is the current capacity of the relay, it’s probably not a good idea use that relay to break the circuit when there’s loads of functions running on the ship. When I use mine I tend to use my actual Transmitter to turn everything off, lights and smoke, then use the relay to cut the battery feed. That way you are making sure as little current as possible is broken by the relays contacts
Ah we’ll get there. I always slow down over Christmas and new year, not by design but it always happens anyway! Hopefully I’ll get going again fairly soon on things
I must say how therapeutic your modelling must be with that wonderful 'tick-tock' of your clock in the background
The lighting is really nicely distributed over the deck and is just the perfect ambience inside through the windows. Its coming along very nicely and I like many others keep looking forward to each episode. Merry Christmas 🎄🎉
Thank you very much. It takes a lot of time to get the lighting correct really! Glad you like it. Happy Christmas
The lighting looks fantastic, continue enjoying your holidays. We'll see you next year.
‘ like to see your mirror ball for the disco ‘ lol
Beautiful work
This looks absolutely amazing ! Keep up the great work man !
Thank you!
"Titanic, minus a night club at the back"
I must say this is one of the most beautiful models out there of the Titanic. The amount of detail you put into this model is outstanding. Working on my own model now with the Scaledecks wooden decks. Those decks are fenomenal 🙂. Keep up the great work! So curious for the end result. I'm not able to add the interior of the ship like you did but I learned so much by watching your videos and I will put that knowledge into my model 🙂 it's a joy to watch your model! Thanks man! 🙂 and I wish you a happy newyear! 🥂👍
Thank you very much for your comment. The scaledecks really add another level to the ship don’t they.
Happy new year to you too!
Titanic aft Smoking Room: little know to history, it was actually the First Class Gentleman’s Club (aka Bordello - The Red Room). 😉😂
Super!!!
this is sick
wish i could be as good as u
Thank you!
@@TheModelBoatGuy np
wow great model and super videos, respect!
subscription ready🙂
Looking great. I have a question you may be able to help me with, I need to know what motors/esc/battery combos would be suitable for a 1/350 USS Enterprise aircraft carrier?
Well I mean it rather depends on what you want to ship to do.
I don’t know how many props Enterprise had but I tend to use one motor per prop. My preference on ships is to use gearing because if you sail through weeds, your motors can stall. And a DC motor pulls maximum current when they are stalled, so you run the risk of blowing fuses etc. Gearing increases torque which reduces the risk of a stall. But the other option is a higher power motor. Cornwall model boats has a great range of motors.
ESCs is a whole rabbit hole of different things, but the Mtronics Viper marine range are excellent and cool proof. They come in different current capacities and you just need to match that to your motors.
Batteries are rather defined by the type of ship you make. A speed boat or something would require a good current delivery but for an aircraft carrier I’m guessing you don’t want speed! Sealed Lead acids are cheap and robust, and are pretty safe, but they are heavy for the energy stored. Other batteries like LiPO are much lighter for their power density, so you can get a longer running time on your model. But they need to be looked after more carefully. I chose lead acids on my model because I like to be able to get the ship home from a sail, get the batteries on charge and sort of forget about it. You can’t really do that with more lipo or Lion batteries because they need to be carefully charged and stored.
I’m not really making a recommendation here because it’s a question of taste, how you want your model to handle etc. But hopefully that’s a good set of suggestions.
Great job as always ,are you going to build the hachettepart titanic that comes out next month?
I don’t think I will no, I think too much titanic will become a little bit boring for me. I’ll be making other kits for sure and might do another titanic model at some point in the future, but for now I’ll just watch other people make the hachettepart model 😀
Just one question...what is the color you used for the lines below the bridge? Don't know how to describe this. It's the line that is on cranelevel...where the loadinghatches are, the kinda orange/brownisch color. Hope you know what I mean? 😀 and did you varnash your wooden decks?
Hi there. Yeah I know the colour you mean. On white star ships this was known as Dark Mast, and predictably was used for masts and also lower sides of functional decks such as the well decks.
I used Humbrol 63 for this which I think is called Sand.
In reality my colour choice is perhaps a little bit light, it’s not such an issue on the well decks as there is enough shadow to darken how you perceive the colour, but on the masts they do look a wee bit light. However I like the colour as is so won’t change it!
Yeah I sealed them with a matt varnish, Humbrol do a good enamel varnish range that has matt, satin and gloss in it, so I used those.
@@TheModelBoatGuy thank you so much for this advice 🙂! Going to look for the humbrol 63. I think it fits perfectly 🙂. Thanks again and have a good day! Grtz 🤟
Hello there shipmate! Just wanted to drop this little nugget in the comments...In episode 18 at 12:07 you said you used Humbrol 61 Flat Flesh as your dark mask colour... 🤨 I loved it so much I went and done all my dark mast parts on my 1/350 kit in H61... when did you change to H63?! 😧
I have read that a good choice for the funnel buff colour would be H63 with a dash of H34, which was apparantley a match to a tin straight from the MV Britannic... Another Titanic modeller, Jason King, uses Pantone 135. British Gulf Armour is another "off the shelf" tin I've seen used but cannot remember the brand, maybe model master or floquil I think... White Star Buff... what a can of worms that one is!! 😬(I think so long as they're not yellow or orange its all good!)
Hi there, you are correct! Since using this I have finished the tin of paint and chucked out so I was going from memory!
You are quite correct though. The colour I used for dark mast was Humbrol 61 not Humbrol 63! Well spotted. Dark mast is one of those colours that is subject to so much debate you could use a lot of different colours and still argue your case! @themusiccomposer I hope you see this before you buy the paint, if not sorry. An honest mistake!
@@TheModelBoatGuy hi there 🙂 well I just read it haha. But it's not an issue. I already have painted it and I'm happy with how it looks. So I'm gonna stick with it I guess 😃 but thanks anyway! 🤟🤟
Dear Lord, that tree....
Wonderful tree, and very well decorated too!
Hi model boat guy. just recieved my 1/200 scale titanic. one issue..... no rigging . how can a so detailed model not have a provision for the rigging ? any thoughts/
I have answered on the other copy of this comment 🙂
Hi there could I just ask what. Make of electric motors did you use in the model hope you. Had a merry xmas and happy new year From Richard
Hello, happy new year too! The motors I’ve used are these:
www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mfa-950d61.html#SID=2421
They are relatively noisy but that can be dampened down with good mounting practice (a resilient floor beneath). I also had some success with a good silicone grease for noise reduction
HELP Hi i am following your build and doing exactly the same to mine running gears in all the electrics done apart from the key fob circuit breaker i can no longer access the show more show less part of your description so do not know what the part is or where to find one could you help please hope you had a great CXhristmas and are going to have a good Hogmanay
Hi there.
Something like this will probably work:
QIACHIP Universal Wireless Relay Module 12V 1CH Remote Control Light Switch Receiver RF 433 Mhz with 2 Smart Transmitters for Entrance Control, Car Light 164ft Long Range www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B081CD9GHD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_70M9FTZ14JDJE75RJ52K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The one I bought is no longer available but this is similar. One thing to note is the current capacity of the relay, it’s probably not a good idea use that relay to break the circuit when there’s loads of functions running on the ship.
When I use mine I tend to use my actual Transmitter to turn everything off, lights and smoke, then use the relay to cut the battery feed. That way you are making sure as little current as possible is broken by the relays contacts
Man, it's been a while
Ah we’ll get there. I always slow down over Christmas and new year, not by design but it always happens anyway!
Hopefully I’ll get going again fairly soon on things
@@TheModelBoatGuy Yea, I understand. I just bought this model. I think I'm going to do radio control too
how many moters in this ship for moving propellers
Three in total
Titanic looks like its bald or something without its funnels
It does totally change the ships profile dosent it