Power supply and production about the ship provided by devoted souls in generator compartment. The ship entirely electrified including the many Prometheus heaters in foyers and public areas. A vast networking of conduits to route power to all points needed. A grand sight to see her glimmering against the twilight horizon. The contrast of the beauty of her teak decks and white upper structures striking indeed.
Exquisite work and thank you for taking the time on your very detailed explanations regarding any and everything related to the build. As a modeler myself I firmly believe you can´t get enough tips on how to go about certain things, even if they do seem so basic and trivial. My intention isn´t to fuss but to acknowledge that we the modelmakers have a say regarding the kits we build and the industry that provides us with the kits should take their time and review these videos and understand where exactly are they failing so miserably on. One terrible fact that many modelers have to face is the unacceptable state of deformity many of the pieces come in these kits. Talk about quality control !!! Needless to mention the high price one ends up paying for these larger scale models. On top of that all the necessary extra work that goes into trying to salvage parts bent badly out of shape or just plain don't fit. If that wasn´t the worst, many times buying parts from other manufacturers or building them from scratch, yes we´ve all been there. As a wonderfull community of model makers, my hats off to any and everyone who builds and painstainkingly takes the extra time and effort to share his or her work with all, to them my full appreciation and heartfelt gratitude. Nevertheless, these works of art don't get finished by magic, and sometimes I feel the model industry is just a little too abusive. Please forgive my comment, I believe you are way overdue a compliment by the model manufacturing industry as they see you put in the extra work to make this ship stand proudly as museum quality. Congratulations once again.
Nice detailing Robbie. That shaft lends itself well to perhaps the engine room sky light shaft where a similar method could be used. The modeller's manual page 117 should give you ideas! My Shapeways grand staircases arrived yesterday! Still working on lounge too..... 🙄!! JH
Hi Johnny, hope all is well. Yes the lift shaft is a useful was off obscuring the fixings for sure! The model makers manual is a real gold mine, typically showing me many good methods for things I have already done less well! But hey ho. You must nearly be done one the lounge now! Keep well, Robbie
Looking fantastic. I'm building the Hachette partworks version. There were indeed two doors (I had a huge book about all 3 sister ships when I was younger) reason being that as you say it was the top of the elevator workings and there was a big hole in the floor with no space to go round.
Great upload. I was thinking about using some of the original kit pe deck stairs for this part by cutting off the hand rails and cut them to size. Just a potential little idea 💡 😉
22:42 Looking at the plans from Encyclopedia Titanica, you would appear to be right. There is some kind of well that goes all the way down to F-Deck, but it does not exist on G-Deck, even though the staircase continues down that way.
Ever considered using "refrigerator magnets" to attach the deck houses to which you'll need access? They're maybe 1/8" thick - plastic on one side and a magnetic film on the other, and they can be easily cut into strips.
Hey Rob, Thanks for yet another entertaining episode. I think you've made the right choice not to light the lift machinery room. In the ship I currently work we have 16 lifts and thus several lift machinery spaces. They are all unlit when no one is working there, which is not often. So I would imagine that most of the time that space would have been unlit. In modern ships approx. every fourth light in escape routes and public areas are emergency lights which are always lit. But that is a requirement in the SOLAS Convention which was a result of the Titanic disaster... Keep up the great work 👍
Hi there, yes I think so. It seems odd to think about efficiency on a ship of 1912 but of course White Star Line was a business with profits and loss so clearly there would have been efforts made to save energy etc etc. Yes I was reading the SOLAS regs recently actually out of interest to see how ships differ from building regs. The 4th light is applied across most public spaces now and normally needs emergency back-up supply for a number of hours (clearly very sensible as you say). Sad but disasters often seem to pave the way for improvements in safety.
Really nice work and so many useful tips and solutions to overcome those little issues. Smart decision on the lift motor room lighting. I'm not surprised there was a second door to access a narrow area inside, I have seen it these days on buildings. I do wonder why you paint PE before removing and bending as I find I am always scratching paint off, Though I understand its easier to paint small parts still attached :) Cheers mate 👍🇭🇲
I find if you are very careful with a very sharp blade you can extract PE without too much paint loss (I occasionally have to rework a part but not often). Do you use a PE prep paint? I use a photo etch primer which massively improves how much my paint sticks to PE, I have included it in the description encase you want to have a look :)
A few easter eggs might be fun,mona lisa in lounge,lord lucan, digital watch,someone wearing trainers,etc (your model might be to classy for this sillyness !) On a more serious note i am very impreesed! P.s. i had to subscribe out of respect!
Hi love your work. Unbelievable, I don’t know if you know if you get water on scaledecks lt ruins them I don’t know if I missed an episode where you have solved this problem.
I think that water will damage the decks yeah. I have sprayed my decks with a Matt varnish which makes it relatively resistant to water. I find Humbrol enamel varnish is pretty good
Fantastic as usual. But where/how did you learn how to install LEDs? I would love to light some of my models but I don't feel comfortable enough in electronics... ☹☹☹☹☹☹
I am an electrical engineer so the electrical side of things comes quite naturally to me. I have done electronics since I was a young kid really, I do get it’s a bit of a dark art if you don’t understand it! I’m going to do a video on frequently asked questions soon and will suggest a few good books for basic electronics in that
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thank you for your kind response! 🥰 Since everybody will agree that a model with no light/sound is BO-RING, your video will be greatly appreciated. Can't wait...
Question. Could you ever do a quick tutorial on how to do the lighting? I bought all the stuff like for the LED lights. But I’m not sure how to make it work and don’t want to mess it up. Could you briefly explain if you cannot make a video on it?
Hi there, I can do. If I did I think I would do it on the bench so to speak, so show the principle outside of the ship. If that sounds useful I can see what people think
I have thought about this actually, its quite. nice idea. I was thinking of trying to make a full 'display mode' for the model when its on the stand which would have the lights on a timer, maybe have the propellers turning at an appropriate speed, rudder turning every so often etc.
Hello, welcome to the series. If you check the video description there are some google drive links to flooring, panelling and glass print outs that you are free to download and print yourself. For clarity they are not produced by me, but are great and the producer has given their permission for me to have them on my google drive 🙂
Hi Rob i am using the same smoke generator as you, the instructions say wire fan to battery but would that not make it run all the time ? or can you wire it into the switch so it comes on when the smokers on the wiring instructions are non existent .
Hi there, yes as you say that will result in the fan being on all the time. My approach was to wire the fan direct to the battery, but cut the feed using one of my RC switches. That way I can toggle it with my RC transmitter. This is the RC switch i use: hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-switch-1.html?wrh_pdp=1&countrycode=GB&___store=en_us
The only detail your going to need to add to this build, is to have it sink on its first use, right in the deepest part of a pond where it is never seen again for seventy odd years.
Power supply and production about the ship provided by devoted souls in generator compartment.
The ship entirely electrified including the many Prometheus heaters in foyers and public areas.
A vast networking of conduits to route power to all points needed.
A grand sight to see her glimmering against the twilight horizon.
The contrast of the beauty of her teak decks and white upper structures striking indeed.
you are doing well, keep doing good like this love from india 🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
Look’s excellent - especially on the night scene! Perfect interior and deck lighting!
She's looking great my friend. I really like the way you work through these issues, and you always find a solution. Simply brilliant my friend.
Thank you! Lovely comment. I usually end up trying two or three things before I find the right solution to a problem!
This model just blows me away your attention to detail is outstanding. I use the super glue from the range as it dries almost straight away
Beautiful work! I enjoy watching your progress.
Awesome job
Exquisite work and thank you for taking the time on your very detailed explanations regarding any and everything related to the build. As a modeler myself I firmly believe you can´t get enough tips on how to go about certain things, even if they do seem so basic and trivial. My intention isn´t to fuss but to acknowledge that we the modelmakers have a say regarding the kits we build and the industry that provides us with the kits should take their time and review these videos and understand where exactly are they failing so miserably on. One terrible fact that many modelers have to face is the unacceptable state of deformity many of the pieces come in these kits. Talk about quality control !!! Needless to mention the high price one ends up paying for these larger scale models. On top of that all the necessary extra work that goes into trying to salvage parts bent badly out of shape or just plain don't fit. If that wasn´t the worst, many times buying parts from other manufacturers or building them from scratch, yes we´ve all been there. As a wonderfull community of model makers, my hats off to any and everyone who builds and painstainkingly takes the extra time and effort to share his or her work with all, to them my full appreciation and heartfelt gratitude. Nevertheless, these works of art don't get finished by magic, and sometimes I feel the model industry is just a little too abusive. Please forgive my comment, I believe you are way overdue a compliment by the model manufacturing industry as they see you put in the extra work to make this ship stand proudly as museum quality. Congratulations once again.
Nice detailing Robbie. That shaft lends itself well to perhaps the engine room sky light shaft where a similar method could be used. The modeller's manual page 117 should give you ideas!
My Shapeways grand staircases arrived yesterday! Still working on lounge too..... 🙄!! JH
Hi Johnny, hope all is well. Yes the lift shaft is a useful was off obscuring the fixings for sure! The model makers manual is a real gold mine, typically showing me many good methods for things I have already done less well! But hey ho.
You must nearly be done one the lounge now!
Keep well,
Robbie
Looking fantastic. I'm building the Hachette partworks version. There were indeed two doors (I had a huge book about all 3 sister ships when I was younger) reason being that as you say it was the top of the elevator workings and there was a big hole in the floor with no space to go round.
Ah ok thank you for the info! I’ve been following photos of the Hachette model too. Good luck with it all!
Great upload. I was thinking about using some of the original kit pe deck stairs for this part by cutting off the hand rails and cut them to size. Just a potential little idea 💡 😉
22:42 Looking at the plans from Encyclopedia Titanica, you would appear to be right. There is some kind of well that goes all the way down to F-Deck, but it does not exist on G-Deck, even though the staircase continues down that way.
Ever considered using "refrigerator magnets" to attach the deck houses to which you'll need access? They're maybe 1/8" thick - plastic on one side and a magnetic film on the other, and they can be easily cut into strips.
Hey Rob,
Thanks for yet another entertaining episode. I think you've made the right choice not to light the lift machinery room. In the ship I currently work we have 16 lifts and thus several lift machinery spaces. They are all unlit when no one is working there, which is not often. So I would imagine that most of the time that space would have been unlit. In modern ships approx. every fourth light in escape routes and public areas are emergency lights which are always lit. But that is a requirement in the SOLAS Convention which was a result of the Titanic disaster...
Keep up the great work 👍
Hi there, yes I think so. It seems odd to think about efficiency on a ship of 1912 but of course White Star Line was a business with profits and loss so clearly there would have been efforts made to save energy etc etc.
Yes I was reading the SOLAS regs recently actually out of interest to see how ships differ from building regs. The 4th light is applied across most public spaces now and normally needs emergency back-up supply for a number of hours (clearly very sensible as you say).
Sad but disasters often seem to pave the way for improvements in safety.
Great video, i love it
Really nice work and so many useful tips and solutions to overcome those little issues. Smart decision on the lift motor room lighting. I'm not surprised there was a second door to access a narrow area inside, I have seen it these days on buildings. I do wonder why you paint PE before removing and bending as I find I am always scratching paint off, Though I understand its easier to paint small parts still attached :) Cheers mate 👍🇭🇲
I find if you are very careful with a very sharp blade you can extract PE without too much paint loss (I occasionally have to rework a part but not often). Do you use a PE prep paint? I use a photo etch primer which massively improves how much my paint sticks to PE, I have included it in the description encase you want to have a look :)
Nice
You are best and can you do tour your titanic model when it's ready
Hi rob ,you need 2 doors so if there's a fire and one door is blocked you can still escape out the other .
Wow!
Well, I'm sorry to say that Bob is not my uncle.. His name is Harald.. 🤣 Sorry, I just had to:) Great work 👍
A few easter eggs might be fun,mona lisa in lounge,lord lucan, digital watch,someone wearing trainers,etc (your model might be to classy for this sillyness !) On a more serious note i am very impreesed! P.s. i had to subscribe out of respect!
Hi love your work. Unbelievable, I don’t know if you know if you get water on scaledecks lt ruins them I don’t know if I missed an episode where you have solved this problem.
I think that water will damage the decks yeah. I have sprayed my decks with a Matt varnish which makes it relatively resistant to water. I find Humbrol enamel varnish is pretty good
Lovely detail as always. Will you be using the scaledecks on the overhead covers (the PE parts attached to the side) or leaving them painted white?
Hello, yes I will be. I just need to cut some bits out for them and get them glued down. Another little job that needs doing!
Fantastic as usual.
But where/how did you learn how to install LEDs?
I would love to light some of my models but I don't feel comfortable enough in electronics...
☹☹☹☹☹☹
I am an electrical engineer so the electrical side of things comes quite naturally to me.
I have done electronics since I was a young kid really, I do get it’s a bit of a dark art if you don’t understand it!
I’m going to do a video on frequently asked questions soon and will suggest a few good books for basic electronics in that
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thank you for your kind response! 🥰
Since everybody will agree that a model with no light/sound is BO-RING, your video will be greatly appreciated.
Can't wait...
Question. Could you ever do a quick tutorial on how to do the lighting? I bought all the stuff like for the LED lights. But I’m not sure how to make it work and don’t want to mess it up. Could you briefly explain if you cannot make a video on it?
Hi there, I can do.
If I did I think I would do it on the bench so to speak, so show the principle outside of the ship. If that sounds useful I can see what people think
@@TheModelBoatGuy yeah I think that would be really helpful to me and a lot of other people! You should do it if you are able to!
What if you set up a timer so that that room comes on at certain times and shuts off after a short period of time?
I have thought about this actually, its quite. nice idea. I was thinking of trying to make a full 'display mode' for the model when its on the stand which would have the lights on a timer, maybe have the propellers turning at an appropriate speed, rudder turning every so often etc.
Well that sounds awesome
hi modelboat guy. just wondering if there is any special way of painting photo etched parts or do i just paint them as i would plastic ? cheers
I prime them first with a PE primer (link in the video description) then just paint as normal
did you run the wiring for the lights down into the bowel of the ship from the boat deck and 2nd class lift housing?
I did yeah, all the superstructure connects into the hull via a magnetic connector. Makes removal and replacement of the superstructure very simple!
as a new viewer and just starting out on my build plan where did you source your lovely wood paneling
Hello, welcome to the series. If you check the video description there are some google drive links to flooring, panelling and glass print outs that you are free to download and print yourself.
For clarity they are not produced by me, but are great and the producer has given their permission for me to have them on my google drive 🙂
@@TheModelBoatGuy ok great found them , what paper quality/type do you use to get the best printed quality or are you using card ???
Hi Rob i am using the same smoke generator as you, the instructions say wire fan to battery but would that not make it run all the time ? or can you wire it into the switch so it comes on when the smokers on the wiring instructions are non existent .
Hi there, yes as you say that will result in the fan being on all the time.
My approach was to wire the fan direct to the battery, but cut the feed using one of my RC switches. That way I can toggle it with my RC transmitter.
This is the RC switch i use: hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-receiver-controlled-switch-1.html?wrh_pdp=1&countrycode=GB&___store=en_us
Thanks Rob, but would it not work if it was connected to the same switch as the smoker element using just one switch for both ?
The only detail your going to need to add to this build, is to have it sink on its first use, right in the deepest part of a pond where it is never seen again for seventy odd years.
haha well I mean id prefer if it didn't, but who knows. it would be prophetic I suppose!
i made a cardboard titanic model with light
Great job I can do better
Goodo! Im certainly not the best modeller out there so I don’t doubt it!