What is the Best Glue for PLA 3D Printed Parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- So I wanted to know what is the best glue for PLA 3D printed parts. I did some of my own unscientific testing and watch the video to see how different glues hold up.
For those of you who just want to know what the best glue is, it's Weld-on 16, with no sanding of the PLA it provides the best adhesion between PLA parts. Also this video was not sponsored.
Best glues ranked from best to worst:
#1 Weld-On 16 - amzn.to/36sJeAC (affiliate link)
#2 CA (Superglue)
#3 Contact Cement
#4 Epoxy - coarsely sanded and rigid applications
#5 Polyurethane - coarsely sanded and rigid applications
#6 Plastic Model Cement
#7 All Purpose Goop - IMO don't bother
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#3DPrinting #PLA #glue - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Many thanks for mentioning the results first and staying focused throughout the video instead of making us skip around
Thank you for such a straight forward and informative video. This is exactly what I needed ; Real world application, consistencies of each glue and results. 👏🏼
One of the great things about epoxy is that it does stick to almost anything except for plastic. When working with epoxy you csn make great use of that specific property. Regards from a boat builder :)
Great video really shows how it's not just the type of glue, but also the thickness of the material, flatness, smoothness, slice orientation which seems to affect bond and shear strength.. all appear to be important factors.
Thanks a lot for doing this testing, it was very helpful!
Really nice retest on the more solid objects. That's really interesting. Thank you for the diligence!
Thank you for this great video, I was looking to glue some PLA parts together and needed to know this information. Straight to the point and very educational.
Thank you for performing this experiment! It was extremely helpful!
This demolishes every other damn blog post, article and video I've seen and read and year on what to use. Should be in every 3D printer manual. Thanks!
This was really thorough and well organized. Thank you!
Thank you!!! Bought a PLA model train building to assemble and needed some gluing advice ... All the best ...
Well thought out. Well done
Used CA for adhering PLA exhaust rows on balsa wood P51D Mustang and Yak-3 RC planes prior to paint and detailing the planes. Did antennas and gun sights for the same planes. Have held up very good even with me flying them.
Well presented and very informative. I was looking for the best method to join prints I had to slice up because they were too big for the print bed. I feel more confident in what to use from this video.
Same
Great information! Will need to get some Weld16 for my Mando armor project I'm working on.
thanks.
for cutting to the chase in your description.
but also thanks for showing how the other products worked.
sometimes different jobs require different types of glues.
even if it is p l a bonded to p l a
Late to the party but this video has helped me immensely. I've just printed a helmet in various parts and I was able to solder weld most of it but there are some parts that I cannot get the solder to to fuse the parts without ruining the print. Nice to know I can use contact cement and it will keep in place 🤟
Wow!! You did that soooo well!! Thank you so much!!!
Great video, exactly the info I was looking for!
Thanks for this I have weld on 16 already so I will use that 👍
Thx for the video the information is really helpful.
Thanks Andrew! Good to know.
Thanks for this!
Thank you for your work, very informative video!
This is very useful! Thank you!
Omg thank you for doing this!!!
Hell yeah, I needed this video.
Great video, the community thanks you for this.
Thank you. Will definitely start using weld on 16. My biggest problem when gluing printed parts is thin edge to edge gluing. The small surface area is difficult for most glues to hold. Would have been good to see you try the thin pieces glued on the edges.
Have you had any luck with thin edge gluing?
Hey man this helped me a lot thank you
Guess ill just use the CA i have instead of rushing out to get something else. Thanks for this! youre the project farm of the pla gluing world :D
Great testing! Thank you
Interesting, I agree on your results, will follow channel!
I use DCM, works great! BTW, Weld On 16 is mainly DCM but more expensive.
Goop looks like a great glue to use for temp holds. Comes apart with a little work and little damage to part, then the leftover glue can be peeled off.
This was very helpful and I am going to get some CA glue.
Ok the fact the you put the spoiler at the beginning made me feel like now I should watch your entire video as a thank you lol
Thanks. But I tried Loctite CA glue and it did not hold at all. I tried gluing two rigid solid surfaces similar to yours, but in cylindrical shape. I sanded both surfaces as well.
Great video! Thanks!
REALLY HELPFUL VIDEO, THANKS FOR SHARING. I HAVE A QUESTION, WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TO GLUE ACRYLIC TO PVC?
What brand of filament did you use?
CA can make a white haze on parts when it cures and makes sort of a puff of what almost looks like smoke. I would like to avoid messing up the finish on a fine part. I'm wondering if it would make a good seal. The 16 glue makes a skin very quickly as it contains very volatile chemicals that evaporate quickly that it uses to melt the plastic. Contact cement looks good, but I have some difficulty getting a very smooth even application on both pieces as it also forms a skin very quickly. I wonder how well a silicone caulk or maybe a commonly available auto part store weather strip cement would work to bond PLA? Excellent video. Really helpful to see all these glues in action.
Super glue it is 👀😁 Easy to obtain, easy to use, apparently strong enough to withstand any reasonable force 😎
Awesome man!!!
I was looking for a glue that would work best attaching parts with small surface areas as opposed to large, flat surfaces. Even have trouble with super glue not instantly bonding small parts. Guess I'll try weld-on.
did you try pvc pipe cement? or uv resin? joe
CA "super" glue has been such a mixed experience for me. I always sand, so that's never a factor. It's just....brittle, for lack of a better way to put it. I've had pieces come apart with normal handling. The 5-min Loctite epoxy has always done well for me when I sand good and apply it with a brush. Admittedly, my epoxy glues are usually larger pieces, and sometimes I design them with dowels built in that also get epoxy on them. I still use super glue for small pieces for convenience, but I will def have to try the 16.
In my case for constructing 3D printed models and statues, goop or model cement would be best since I may want to deconstruct the model in future.
Using a stronger glue like superglue would make it very hard to disassemble prints without destroying them.
thank you. very useful.
I've glued a lot of PLA and PETG. Superglue seems to work well on both but overuse has made me allergic. I'm currently tying Bison Plastic Glue which seems to work.
thank you very helpful
Thank you sir 👌
Thank you, sir.
Devcon Plastic Welder . Try this. I have used this on thermoplastic and plexiglass.
Great video
Hello sir. Great video. Maybe you can help me out with my problem. I order some plastic 3d printed wheels for my RC car sla technology pa12 and they broke. What kind of glue i have to use?
So, you are in the Van Der Vaal force camp when it comes to adhesives... Me too, you can detect it when we talk about roughing: does one say "roughing helps to lock onto the surface" or "adhere to the surface"... Both "camps" of course think both are happening, you get mechanical locking AND Van Der Vaal's force, i think the latter is more important than the former and roughing expands surface area.
Weld-on 16 is a brand specific glue while contact cement and CA are general glue formulas. Any idea if Weld-on 16 is a type of glue that's also being made by other brands?
Can you please advise me some suitable adhesive for gluing 3D printed plastics (PLA, ABS, PETG, PET, etc. I do not care about the material primarily), which could be unglued so that the 3D print is not damaged and can be glued again?
ca glue is also brittle so it will suffer from impacts, not sure on contact cement for that as i haven't used it
From personal experience the only Gorilla glue i use is an All-Surface clear Max strength version. its in a caulk gun style application but its all around the best ive used. easily bought in the caulk and adhesion aisles of Home Depot. biggest downfall with gorilla polyurthane base is that it foams and ruins my prints, next to impossible to remove said foam as its tedious and required too much damaging chemicals to remove.
Hello sir, can you give your suggestion on the type of glue that is suitable for connecting PLA to wood
can you tell me any negatives about weldon 16 how long do you have to hold it if you cant clamp?
I heard the Weldon 4 is best, then Weldon 3, and then Weldon 16. #3 sets up in a few seconds, 4 sets up in less than a minute, and 16 sets up in 5 minutes. Weldon 3 and 4 are the consistency of water and don't work on for filling voids like 16 does which is much thicker.
Nice test. However, my experience with contact cement is no good for a long term solution. Also, CA glue has NOT glued my PLA prints at all. Might be more recent formulations of PLA, but it was NOT GOOD. I'm going to try Weldon 16.
Like you I have tried all of what you have used apart from Weld on 16, as cant get that in the UK,
I use Tensol 12,
It is a Methyl Methacrylate & Dichloromethane product
Any chance you doing a compare of this against Weldon 16 for your viewers .
Thank you for spending time and effort for people to understand what is good for Pla,
Also Glue Ages and also becomes brittle after a while, specially super glue, Acrylic glue's are best for PLA,
So don't waist money and nice models using the wrong glue's
as they will fail to hold.
as this had been a learning curve for me 3 years ago. and so knowledge of this will save you a lot of disasters.
Oh also when making parts to join together, include male and female fixture tabs and slots, this will increase strength.
I used tensol 12 but it didnt work at all on pla?
Weld-On 16 is Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) and Dichloromethane (DCM). The DCM is the PLA solvent so as long as Tensol 12 has it, it should work equally well.
I use generic plastic glue specifically because it isn't that strong. Not all parts need strong bonds and sometimes it is useful to have a glue that you can pry apart. Just did that two days ago, had an assembly but i wanted to design&print one part of it again. It was easy to just put a knife in to the join and cut it apart. In that case the glue is strong than enough for holding but if need be, i can redo it again and again.
Hi Andrew, loved the video. My question: does hot glue stick to pla printed molds. Thank you.
Tried that and no. It is too rubbery and just peals off. Works well on fabrics.
bang for the buck I'd go with Contact Cement
Best glue for PLA, don't know about glue but I doubt anything sticks two pieces of PLA together better than S-Polybond PMMA. It's solvent weld for Acrylic but works INSANELY well on PLA too. Do mind that it is solvent weld, it has the consistency of water and will not 'fill' gaps. It briefly dissolves the top PLA layer (so you can bridge small gaps during that stage and squish the 2 pieces together) and as it evaporates (which it does fast, seconds to a minute max) the PLA hardens again and is then chemically fused.
thank you
Did You give any thought to testing what affect heat, cold or heat and cold might have on the different glues?
I am an old school modeler. Used to the kits you bought in 1970's from 5 & dime stores and some Lead D&D... Never had the opportunity until a star wars nerd friend was having a significant birthday and I wanted to make something special.
I bought a 3D model of Ashoka Tana in a typical "kick-ass mode" but typical model glues did not work....
Thank you Andrew for your research! Happy Birthday to my friend!!!
I mean, literally any super glue will work just fine. PO is not that terrible and super glue works by melting things together. I've never had an issue with that
can i know where to get weld-on 16?
i'm from East Malaysia
People swear by Gorilla glue but I find it one of the worse glues I've ever used. I can't reconcile those differences of opinion. It foams up like crazy out of the sides of the joint and is brittle.
It is great for foam RC planes
And you also have to clamp it, AND use an activator unlike contact cement or superglue
Not all Gorilla Glues foam.
Yeah specifically gorilla glue brand foams up
Same! I’m always blown away anyone recommends it. I’m a pretty big fan of ca and baking soda. Makes a plastic weld essentially and it’s instantaneous
I was about to buy gorilla glue (which is quite pricy in my country)
But luckily I decided to look into other glues first. Great video.
*However I cant seem to find Weld-On 16 where I am :/
Not a good test with thin strips because pla breaking off before glue nonetheless good general test at least you can see which glues definitely not to use at all. Would like to see a test which glue can binds instantly without waiting so long. I’ve been using super glue and it’s an instant bond. Super glue seems to like PLA allot and I like the instant bond and no waiting for figures and stuff like that. Also in the video contact cement works well because it tends to melt the two PLA parts together and hence fusing them. I think super glue does that too who knows.
I have used the cheap dollar store super glue which has worked extremely well for me.
Cost effective.
Super glue seems to be the way to go, at least since I couldn't find the number one anywhere near where I live.
I have yet to see anyone review the glue that I use for PLA (from a recommendation from chemists) and I'm really curious to see your results. I currently use Loctite 401 purchased from Amazon. I'm not sure you can find it in stores. It adheres almost too fast and is extremely strong.
Is contact cement good for plastic models
Best glue for PLA or any plastic is EMA Plastic Weld. It actually melts the plastic and welds it together. I have done extensive testing with a bunch of glues and the EMA Plastic Weld actually rips the printed pieces apart when you try to separate the pieces. Your tests were great, but the limiting factor was the strength of your parts since they were so thin.
If you had used the blocks for all your tests, you would have seen very different results.
can try dissolving PLA in acetone making a sludge and using that
@@chrishayes5755You're thinking of ABS. PLA does not dissolve in acetone like ABS does.
great video
thanks
And what do you think about using ethyl acetate as a glue?
Need to try JB Plastiweld
thx
The weld on 16 affiliate link not working. Can you make another one I wanna support your work and I also need that glue 😅 :D
So I need to know which glue is firm but is not permanent, for two pla designs that will come apart later on.
Plastic model cement workd by melting Polystyrene .. and not so totally melting it.. so it wont work well with different plastics or PLA
Why did Weld-On 16 score better than CA? Judging from the test, they performed the same. Is Weld-On 16 cheaper or more widely available than CA?
Superglues make material brittle. I didn't hear that mentioned in the video. I found this out long time ago gluing other materials. Try to use a superglue on an old shoelace or other string - it will break. You can see the fumes whitened the area around the glued part - that is brittle as well.
Acetone is supposed to be good to weld together PLA parts as well.
I definitely need to get some new glue since I've started making an Ironman armor. I got a 3d pen for xmas so I was thinking of using that to weld parts together. Would that be better than glue?
I am a little curious as to how you planned to do that? I can't speak from experience, but a 3D pen wouldn't melt the two ends of the parts you need to connect, right? I would assume that the plastic melted by a 3D pen would be insufficient to actually bond PLA. I know I am very late, but did you have any luck with making that Iron Man armor?
What's your experience been with E-6000?
A little bit of analysis... When you bend the two parts, one side expands and the other contracts, so the glue has to adapt to this situation.
Epoxy cures very rigidly and that's why it peels off when you bend the pieces, it can't contract and expand on both sides of the glue.
Because the superglue creates a very thin layer, it does not cause the same problem as the epoxy.
Contact cement on the other hand, does not have this problem, even though the glue layer is thicker, it can contract and expand on both sides of the glue layer.
You left out probably the best option on the market, 3D Gloop
How strong is the best one
I needed this thank you. Please do petg
I have some experience with petg.
- ca (superglue) - makes it brittle
- epoxy (5minute) - is okay after giving the part teeth with 80 grit sandpaper, still very week connection though.
-white glue (elmers) - i know does nothing.
Petg is very chemical resistant and what is recommended to create the visor frames for the emergency face shields. I'd recommend to print as large of an assembly that is required or can be done and to mechanically secure them together. E.g. screws, nuts and bolts.
@@jagtan13 gotcha ! Thank youu. ! I appreciate that
Which contact cement are you using?
Looks like he used Lepage heavy duty contact cement
Wood burner & melt or “weld” the parts together
In my tests, the CA (superglue) is useless, very spotty whether it will hold or not. Epoxy is great on big, rigid parts, not on small flexible ones. Gorilla useless. Contact cement is not a long term solution. OK for a temp glue. Looking to Weldon-16, and equivalent formulations. Got one called "same stuff". Took a really big pla print. It was about 6" long, a T'bar with the base 1" and the cross bar 1/5" (20mm and 10mm). Glue two of them together. Even the really strong T-bar broke before the same stuff let go. OTOH with a 4mm thick domino like Andrew used, but thicker and more rigid, with a slight texture on top, indicative of a PLA print, after 5 minutes, the glue didn't hold. Going to try the same domino after a couple hours. Tried it again and it didn't hold after 2 hours. Now trying to glue it over night and two very very smooth flat surfaces together. Incredibly expensive and very hard to get, but good under the right circumstances..