The 5 Filament Types You Need to Know (And What They're Good For)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- Today, I talk about which 3D Printing filaments are best for what types of projects. This video is brought to you by Squarespace. Head to squarespace.com/thenextlayer to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code thenextlayer.
UPDATE: I have released a "Part 2" of this video, where I cover more advanced filaments... check it out here: • Carbon Fiber 3D Printe...
When you first start out with 3D printing, you are likely to print almost exclusively PLA and for good reason. PLA is easy to use, affordable, and great for maybe 80% of the things that you'd want to 3D print as a beginner.
However, as you get more skilled, both in 3D printing and in understanding what types of things you actually can print, you'll inevitably want to try more versatile, tough, or durable materials...
In this video I'm gonna give you a quick guide as to which filaments are best for what types of projects and how to choose which one to use for your next project.
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00:00 Introduction
00:43 PLA or Polylactic Acid
04:09 TPU or Thermoplastic Polyurethanes
05:28 PETG or Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
10:36 ABS or Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene
13:50 ASA or Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate
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OH HEY THERE! Thank you SO MUCH for watching the video. I'd love to hear your feedback. Feel free to comment below to let me know any ways I could IMPROVE my videos for YOU!
Are you Jewish or just Israeli
PLA+ from sunlu works great for armor making at least, minus the low tolerance to high temperature of course. It's quite sturdy, can't break it with my bare hands with proper settings. And way easier to print than PETG which always got me troubles.
Have you printed with SBS filament yet? Styrene betaduene Styrene. Smooths with D'lemonine, made from the oils in citrus fruits. It is also used to recycle polystyrene.
@@binyominmartin3308 both but i'm pretty much an athiest
@@MrGerhardGrobler Printed with it? I haven't even heard of it! Who makes it
Would be great if you could discuss the more engineering grade polymers like Nylon, PC, PP, etc…
I can do that! I just got a bunch of great samples from Bambu Lab, Plastics App, and more :)
Adding another comment for the algorithms. I’d definitely watch a followup on nylon and PC!
I haven’t tried PP yet, but use PC and Nylon a lot, although for opposite applications. PC is super strong and stiff whereas nylon (especially without an abrasive filler) is slippery and durable, perfect for gears and moving parts.
@@thenextlayer If you end up covering engineering grade polymers, please include glass filled/ carbon filled pp. It such an underrated filament.
Zack Freedman has a video or two going through a ridiculous amount of exotic/engineering filaments.
You glossed over pretty much the best parts of PETG:
1. It has near-perfect layer adhesion when part cooling isn't used
2. Nothing sticks to it! It's perfect for moulds
3. It can be used to create watertight parts
I just used it for a silicone mould, it came out easy even though it was square with a bunch of mini cinderblocks
We use it for most of our functional parts. PLA gives good finish, but unfortunately the temperature range is too low for our use
Your 2nd point is really good, i never thought of that, but the first and third point is really bad tbh.
1. If part cooling was use, all printer has part cooling, why woulf anyone print without it. If your printer is broken then just fix it.
3. Unless your printer had extrusion problem, all print are water tight. Nothing is going to leaked through a wall if all layer are correctlt extruded.
@@giaopxyour point about water tightness is invalid, the reason it’s so good with water tightness is the layer adhesion, gaps in the layers = leak
Advantages PETG:
- Good sliding properties and thus useful for guides.
- Chemical resistance
- It's a little bit easier to get something watertight than with PLA
dirt resistant too, better for handling, better translucency, and if u cant print it fast thats a you problem- Dry it and get a better hotend xoxo ma voron does petg at 23mm cubed fine
I love printing in PETG. I needed a longer spool holder for my Ender 3 V2 Neo and printed it out of PETG (i needed the holder for a 3KG spool of petg) and it rolls *so* much better than the stock spool holder.
@@meky0 Good for you.
I'm right there with you. Any moving parts get PetG for me
Are you saying PETG slides better than ABS, PLA or both?
There's something worth noting about Stefan's analysis for PETG. His point of failure was the moment the material began to deform. While PLA did survive a higher strength, its far more brittle. In general brittle materials are "stronger" before their ultimate breaking point, even for metals and steels, but brittle materials are avoided because of their inability to survive consistent loads. Over time any material begins to form micro-cracks within in structure and those will introduce massive stress raisers. This is especially common for cyclic loads (like gears and shafts). Brittle materials will fail much faster in the long run because their cracks will propagate a faster, while ductile materials will be able to take a lot more and handle the continuous load for longer. This is especially true for 3D printed parts since they are notorious for lack of uniformity and have tons of pores and stress cracks. In general if you're producing something which will take a sustained load, you're better off with something ductile vs brittle. Using a shelf as an example, over time it a PETG shelf might begin to sag and slightly deform before giving out if its overloaded, vs a PLA or brittle shelf which will just fall apart very quickly.
Also one thing I don't remember being tested for PETG was its behaviour after a few weeks. Hygroscopic materials tend to become stiffer over time, nylon filemant for instance will generally take two weeks before it settles into its final strength. It would be worth seeing how PETG behaves as well over time once it's absorbed mosture to saturation as it will affect its mechanical properties.
PETG is great for outdoor items, like brackets to hold a small solar panel on the gutters, or custom wire clips for Christmas lights. According to my spreadsheet, I've only paid over $12 for a roll one time: $12.23 for a light grey that matches the siding of my house. I have never seen ASA at a price I'm willing to pay.
I printed my patio light clip ( the stringy type) with PLA, its been a full canadian years (cold and hot cycle) and they are holding fine.
@@versus023 Yeah, the channel "3D printing nerd" has this experiment that he's running where he buried a PLA benchy in his garden and he takes it out every 6 months to see if it has changed at all but it has been perfectly normal for well over a year. It's a common misconception that PLA degrades very quickly. Although I wouldn't trust it to not deform under direct sunlight, it's definitely not as "biodegradable" and weakened by the elements as people used to say.
I'm new to this space. How often do you find yourselves printing things you need instead of buying something from the store? Is there a noticeable cost savings to printing vs buying products ?
@@sibaroochi It's an old comment but if you're thinking that way, you should definitely buy 3d printer. I just solved my washing machine's drain problem with 3d printer and it cost only $1 for filament and 1 hr of measuring/designing time. Sure I can go to home depot, buy some PVC piping, cut, and put together with glue but it may costs $10-$20 and takes the same or much longer time to build the parts in my garage. I would rather spend the same time in my room with a computer.
One day I made a leg extension for my dining table. It can be done using some wood and drill, but then I have to have a circular saw, drill, and large drill bits. Instead, I measured, designed, printed in 24hrs and the material cost was only $2.
Just my notes based on my experience so far:
Basic PLA may not be that fantastic, but some of the advanced blends such as Inland PLA+ can be phenomena in pretty much every way, including having absolutely insane temperature resistance when annealed. I have printed functional oil caps that live in an engine bay under tension with this material.
TPU isn't really as hard to print as many people think, even with a bowden tube. It mostly takes turning down speeds a little bit and adding a ton of retraction. I have had very successful clean prints on a basic Ender 3 Pro with no extruder or hot end mods, and I have had no failures yet, even printing at about 2/3 normal speed.
PETG definitely doesn't deserve to be put on a pedestal, but unless you need the smoothing ability of ABS, it's still probably a better option in general, and basically just depending on temperature and UV needs it makes sense to use over PLA.
ASA is the new hotness over ABS and I think it will only grow more popular. I have yet to print with it, but I will likely skip ABS and go straight for it. Prices have come down recently and I have seen rolls for $21 on Amazon in recent weeks.
Solid video!
I'm glad you pointed out that PETG doesn't do well in high-speed printers, I recently upgraded from an Ender-3 to a Creality K1 and PETG was the only material it was having problems with. It prints ABS like a boss, though.
Good to know. I just bought the Adventure 5m pro and unfortunately I bought 4 rolls of PETG cuz I heard (it was most popular) but didn’t realize it wasn’t good for high speed printers like ours. Thankfully I also bought 4 rolls of abs and 4 rolls of pla. So far have only printed with pla but tonight I’m gonna try the petg and see what happens cuz if it sucks im gonna sell the other rolls before I open them to my buddy with an ender 3
But if you are on a faster printer you can just turn the speed down a bit when using petg? 😉
I literally have zero of these issues with PETG that you’ve stated, and I print 30-40 kilos of it a month in 4 printers including 2 X1C’s.
Yeah I print mass volumes of PETG. I don't agree with this guy or Stephan's tests of PETG.
Pretty much similar experiences for me. Once you dial in your settings, PETG offers an easier time than PLA in my experience. It's far easier to deal with stringing than warping, IMO, and PETG has about the least warping of any filament, including PLA.
When you add in the fact that the thermal expansion of PETG is the best in class of these filaments, (leading to the most dimensionally accurate prints) great layer adhesion (leading to prints that don't break along layer lines as easily as the rest on this video), and solid outdoor performance, you have what's become my go-to filament over PLA. (I do however bring out the ABS when I need the temperature resistance or smoothing ability, however)
@@echo-hotel The truth is, that it very much depends on additives in the filament. This is why anybody doing such tests will be wrong. This always only applies o that specific brand and color tested. Never to the whole family of a material. The only takeaway is some broad tendencies which are usually common. E.G. PLA being more brittle than PETG in most castes (but not all).
Did you know:
The tricks that work for ABS also work for ASA! You can put a few ASA cuts into some acetone and let it dissolve. Now you have a super tough bed adhesion "smear". When done, you print on a layer of ASA.
I don't really measure, I just dissolve filament cuts, until I have a sticky paste that I can apply with a brush.
I got my start with PETG (got into PLA second) and my first Prusa Mini+. I loved the transparent options and, as someone who lives in the southern United States, heat and UV resistance is a *MUST* for just about anything you'd wanna print and take outside for more than 30 seconds. haha Anyone who wants to truly enjoy PETG absolutely needs a PEI textured build plate, as that's about the only surface that offers that beautiful pop-off-when-cool ease of use.
PETG has also awesome thermal stresa resistance. I have printed small "train cart" with superconductor in the cavity inside (stop the print, insert the superconductor, continue with prinitng). It had double walls and over the superconductor there was chamber for liquid nitrogen (-195,6 deg C) the cart survived over 150 tosses into container with liquid nitrogen without any cracking or leakage.
Yeah, I think I also do not share his opinion on this one. PETG - at least for my work environment - is the only filament that's chemically resistant enough for prototyping, while simultaneously being cheap enough to eff up some prints or doing redesigns.
Imagine prototyping with PEEK where 1 kg costs about $ 600.
I thank the gods for PETG!
As a newbie to 3D printing I found this to be a fantastic materials tutorial to get me up to speed. Can't thank you enough. Like comments from others, I'd love see another video reviewing other materials like nylon etc.
Very informative video! I always get big eyes when I tell people that my printer frames are printed out of PLA because it's the most rigid polymer! I really like it that more and more people talking about material properties to fight the myths that are out there. Good Job!
Perfect timing. Thank you. I just received my first fdm printer, a neptune 3 pro, your videos have been great.
That's awesome - that's what I'm here for :)
I just bought my 3D printer this past weekend - this video has been super helpful in really understanding when and how I should use these different print types. Thanks!
Thanks for the great vid! Very helpful for someone wanting to start in 3D, as all the options become overwhelming.
Would love to hear more about nylon & carbon fiber 🙂
m5c.
I'm printing mostly ASA since years. Yes bed adheasion is the big problem. Not impossible with open printers but quite challenging. Big rafts help. Much easier since I use closed voron 2.4... The trick is the bed temperature and there also a equally temp distribution.. And I always start at least with 100C. I always have the first layer to the max thickness the noozle can do. Nobody cares if your first layer is 0.5 or 0.2.... Good video. Thx
Yes please make a part 2 covering the other filament options. I’d say even do a part 3 covering exotic filaments as well!
Noted! Let's see how this video does :)
Thank you, I stubbled upon your channel well looking into filaments and I’m glad I did.
Just ordered my first 3D printer and your video was a wealth of knowledge. You gained a subscriber tonight for sure. Looking forward to more great informative content in the near future. Thank you from 🇨🇦🤙🏼
I’m just getting into 3D printing and have started following The Next Layer. Appreciate the detailed explanations of the filaments and their relative strengths and weaknesses. Would also like to see information on additional filaments like nylon and carbon filled.
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice and informative video. I liked how thoroughly you explained the pros and cons of each filament, along with their usefulness. Based on this I, and the rest of the 3D printing community, would benefit greatly if you continued the series with more of the "exotic" filaments available. Oh, and huge bonus point for giving Stefan @CNCKitchen plenty of props when showing his data. Always good to see the community coming together for the greater good.
I'll do it :)
Yes pls
If you go slow and print on PEI, PETG is amazing for functional prints. It's cheap, easy to print on anything, and the parts will survive most conditions that humans and their things tend to experience - resistant to temperature, uv, friction, staining, strain, impact, chemicals, water. And if you want more stiffness, in most cases you can just print more walls. If you prefer printing functional things and don't need speed, it's a great default material.
Great explanations, very thorough. You absolutely have to do another video on Nylon, PC, carbon and glass fibres, etc.. Might as well do kevlar too! Thanks and keep up your co tributions to this emerging industry. 👍
I'd definitely love to see the same video on the more exotic filaments. Thanks!
Agreed this video was very well done and informative and would love to see another covering more materials
Thanks! This video is the best simple explanation of the most popular filaments I've been able to find. I've exclusively been a resin printer for years. My X1C comes in friday. I've spent the last few days learning about filament. This video could not have dropped at a better time.
Would love to see your next video on more advanced/technical materials.
PETG is much better than this guy seems to think. It's my go to cheap filament for indoor and outdoor parts. Definitely try both. Its insanely easy in an X1C.
Hello friend, I am a filament manufacturer, I think I can provide you with this aspect of help, if you want to know, I am always looking forward to your reply
TPU is an amazing filament for endurance creations. Just bump it up to 30-50% infill and it’s not as bendy as normal, but endures more.
This use for TPU is very interesting, because it actually ties back to real studies on how flexible materials are more difficult to break than the hardest thing on earth: diamond.
So far I've only used TPU for two things: A replacement cap retainer for my Camebak Chute (the original one used a too stiff material, so it broke after less than two years), and when an old wheelbarrow needed a new tyre+tube which I was unable to find in the right dimension: I ended up buying a complete new wheel, but the original axle was a "non-standard" dimension so I printed two bushings in TPU at 50% infill. Seems to work fine so far - if they fail I'll try again with higher infill.
@@koma-k Dude I printed some gaskets from cheap TPU and it is INSANE how tough it is, including trying to cut it.
the only issue with that is TPU can only be printed so fast, especially on extruders with a less well constrained filament path. Heck, I'm printing TPU quite fast now on my new Sovol SV06+ but it will still print PLA 2-3 times faster
@@PAPO1990 I really want an SV06 Plus. On my Ender 3 Pro I can get up to around 30-40mm/s with TPU. Obviously I know flow rate is the key factor, but as a general point of reference. Have gone up to 0.24mm layers.
Well yes, hardness != toughness
Thank you! And yes, please make another video covering more printable materials.
Love your videos and your delivery style for the info that you (always) thoughtfully put together. Thank you not only for this video, but all of your videos. Heads up: I tried listening with head phones and only had my right bud in and it was tremendously quieter than the left once I put that in. Thanks again and keep kicking ass and taking names!
Ok. Now that I've had coffee and vetted my statement... Please keep the first half. It's totally true (your videos and you both rock! 🪨+ ⭐
The second half however, is not true. My headphones (and by proxy, myself) are experiencing issues with the right 'bud' of my headphones. You're audio is fine.
#mistakesWereMade
Thanks man, this is a really awesome comment - I do it for folks like you!
@@thenextlayer your videos have been paramount to help me dive into this wonderful (and often time consuming) hobby.
Something I haven't seen much of is the *what* and *why* the Ender (and clones) **are** budget printers. I have an ender 3, a 3 pro, and a 3 V2 but didn't (and maybe still don't) quite understand what exactly made it budget, ya know? Was it the stepper motors being lower quality, did the frame get made without quality in mind, what about them makes them budget beyond the price, what makes bed slingers so "bad" beyond mass movement? Are there answers to these questions at all, or would it be speculation? If I get one and want quality and reliability, what all is going to be necessary and what would be optional?
Thoughts on a video going over something like that?
Really enjoy your videos! Recently subbed when I found your channel. Also enjoyed this video on the different materials and would like to see another one on the materials you didn't have time to cover. Thanks so much for sharing with us!!!! 😊
Great, informative video. Would definitely love to see a follow-up that covers nylon, PC and carbon fiber variants.
I have actually used PLA in my car that sees ~100°F in summer to replace the OEM mirror with a smaller, lighter blindspot mirror with a cheap windshield GoPro suction cup mount after I decided I liked having more windscreen space.
It did deform slightly within the first summer, but not enough to be an issue and it worked for over 2 years until I sat on it when the suction cup mount failed and fell into my seat.
Great video! Thank you. I would love to see a video on more filaments. There are now so many and so many blends. One of my favorites fir strength, stability, ease of printing, and toughness is PC-CF. I see so much nylon and CF but I doubt it is as good as PC-CF.
Great videos as always, I’d love to see some more filament types explained I the same matter
Thank you 🙏 keep up the great job 👏
Actually not very great, considered that this is a collection of so many misconceptions and misinformation that it does more harm than good. About half of the information is wrong.
One huge plus on PETG is it's chemical resistance including oil and petrol which makes it my No.1 material in the workshop
True.
You released this video just in time, as I just received my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon last night as my first 3D printer
I actually use pla+ for some custom pc fan exhaust ducting and it works fine (petg wouldnt have printed well with the geometry). However i also used it to replace the ikea wardrobe rail in my pax wardrobe and it deteriorated over a couple of months. Printed the same model in petg and its been fine.
Great info, as a newbie to the 3D printing arena I appreciate you saving me time and money with this great info. I subscribed because I want to see what other good info you will be putting out there. Thanks!
Tremendously useful presentation! Only used PLA so far but I’ll need some impact resistant parts soon.
One benefit of PETG is that it is considered to be biocompatible, so I use it for parts that have extended contact with skin; preferring pigment-free or black to limit potential contaminants.
Interesting...
Thanks for your videos. I would love to see a video on the more exotic engineering filaments (like carbon fibers (and more traditiona fiilaments with CF additives) and nylons). Would also like to see a general comparison table showing the +s and -s of all filament types. I'm using an X1 Carbon with AMS so would love to know exactly which brands (other than Bambu of course) print the best on the X1 and the AMS. Always tough to keep up to date on the specifics of each filament type and things change so quickly.
My Ender 3v2 is located in our garage, which during very sunny days can become pretty warm, and in an enclosure. Last year I got a whole lot of issues during the summer while printing PLA. Failed prints which I later discovered were due to heat creep. Even opening up the enclosure didn;t help a lot. So I have to print PETG or ABS during the summer and keep the PLA prints for the colder times of the year.
Grest vidio i keep coming backbtobit from time to time just to remind mysef about what i should be printing for projects 👍
Nice! You're going to really like the one I just released: th-cam.com/video/WK-61N-dE8E/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgwEYHT1uijRzv2G7bx4AaABAg
What a fantastic video, thanks for putting it out there. TPU is my bane as a bowden prusa mini owner.
You're welcome. And ooof, yeah, it's near impossible on a bowden.
I'm a beginner in 3D Printing. Thank you so much for this video! Subscribed. Cheers!
Yes, I am interested in videos explaining the more obscure filaments. Thanks!
I would like it if you would do the follow up video on some of the other common filaments the average consumer would use. Being a fairly new printer, I have used everything in this video except TPU. In the next couple of months I will be using PAHT-CF on a project. I would like to hear what you have to say about it.
I bought an X1 Carbon for the company I work for 6 months ago. While we had an issue with one of the circuit boards, Bambu labs replaced it for free within a few days. Their support has been great. The machine prints so fast and well it paid for itself in 2 months over using our resin printer. All of the engineers that use it love it. I will be saving up to buy one of these machines as my personal Creality CR10S doesnt even compare. After using the X1 Carbon I wont be buying anything else. Bambu Labs is killing it!
Agreed.
No bragging
Great video for newbies like me. I would love a video on when and if to use carbon fiber variants of the various filaments. I'm especially interested in nylonx.
Great suggestion!
Great video on when to use different types of filaments. Would appreciate the use of nylon filaments on open air printers.
My FT-5 is now only partially enclosed--the two lower sides, lower back, and the top. This means it pretty open. It's also in a draft-free cool room. I have recently been printing with ABS semi-successfully. I say this because I had a couple of layer shifts, skewing issues, and a failed print, none of which is enclosure related. Other prints are great. I use 5 lines of brim and no fan. But I am now intrigued by ASA for interior car parts.
Even when there is no draft in the room, the printer causes it's own draft around the printed part due to convection currents caused by the hot air escaping to the top due to the heated bed, meanwhile creating low pressure that suck is cold air from the outside towards your printed part. That means your part is going to warp unless you can reduce this by enclosing it from all sides and the top. You can leave some gaps open when the heat is trapped inside at the top and can reach down to the print (very much like an air pocket within a sunken ship).
Would love to see a video on engineering-grade filaments such as carbon-fiber blends, pc, pp, etc.
Yeah, PETG sticking too much actually killed my stock bed that came with the printer, a perforated bed. I used raft there, because all sample gcode files used it, and eventually parts of top perforated surface started to come off with the raft. And it was a pain to remove as well! I think I got this issue on my 5th or 6th print, I now use the flat smooth bed that the magnetic sticker used to be on and just a brim, much better quality and material usage!
Great video, thank you! I would be very interested in another video about the other materials.
Noted!
I LOATHE PETG, it makes swapping filaments a nightmare if you're trying to go back to PLA.
Very insightful!
Definitely going to try ASA at some point.
I've tried a filament that I haven't seen anywhere on any channel or anywhere for that matter. Fill X SBS. (Styrene-butadiene-styrene)
More flexible that PETG but not as flexible as TPU 95A. Can also be smoothed with d-limonene.
I must say.. I did struggle with bed and layer adhesion when i first started with it.
Doesn't like low speeds, doesn't like supports, especially tree supports, standard works okay sometimes.
100mm/s worked well and up. ABS preset temperatures, even though its stated much lower.
I'm curious as to what your thoughts are on this filament.
A few more positive point about petg, is that it bends without deforming or breaking (at least to a certain extent, and way more compared to pla in my experience), and most importantly, petg can come in clear variation, which is worlds apart when compared to clear pla. It also doesn't release toxic fumes (to humans, please dont have birds in the same room as a printer printing petg), and has way less of an odor compared to abs / asa
That's very true, thanks for sharing
I was also going to drop a comment about the fume issues of PETG vs either of the Styrene based materials (ASA and ABS). This is an important consideration for open frame printers such as non-enclosed bed slingers and the stock Bambu P1P.
Awesome video and thanks for sharing!!
Thanks for watching!
Yes, I would like to see a video on nylon, polycarbonate & carbon fiber blends. I'm thinking about getting started in 3D printing. Also I'm a relatively new subscriber and I find your videos informative.
Noted!
When you have filaments that are having a hard time sticking, might something like a rough grained paper allow the melted filament to adhere a disposable base layer from which the print proper can proceed?
Might such a thing help do away with the need for a heated base?
I'm assuming that bases are heated to allow the first layer to melt and conform with the base, providing a stable platform to print from.
Using something like a semi-porous paper might offer a similar function, be it a tad less recyclable.
I have an open printer, but I think I want to print more ABS. I'm planning on building an enclosure with active heating. Not quite sure how I'm going to get this done yet, but I have an old hair dryer that I think might do the trick of keeping the enclosure nice a toasty. I also have an old toaster oven if the hair dryer doesn't work out from some reason.
This is a great video and I will really appreciate it, if we could have a video also for more engineering materials like Nylon, PAHT, PC, PEEK, and CF blends. And probably a video for the support materials like HiPS, PVA etc.
I have a Bambu X1 Carbon, and I print almost exclusively ABS and PA (nylon). I can't remember the last time I loaded a roll of PLA. I might try out some ASA if I can find some at a reasonable price, thanks for the video!
My basic rule of thumb is I use PLA for anything that’s going to stay inside that isn’t going to be in direct sunlight or under a high load and for outside prints I use ABS and PETG. I have a Flashforge 5m pro and ABS is my favorite material to print. Because of the dual filters on my printer there is almost no smell, it prints at the same high speeds as the PLA+ I always use and just as effortless only with even better bed adhesion than my PLA.
PETG I have gotten away from as it’s too slow to print and too sticky and stringy but iv been wanting to try the new high speed PETG to see how that is.. but basically I only use PETG now if I need some flexibility in my prints.
ASA is over priced and not worth it if your printer prints ABS like a dream like my printer does.. TPU is awesome for anything flexible.. and nylon I have a roll of but havnt tried it yet. I plan to use it for gears and other high strength parts I may need to print in the future along with my own nylon nuts and bolts for various projects.
Never tried PC either or anything carbon fiber though as I hear it just makes it more brittle
unless i got a bad batch of PETG it is not more impact resistant than PLA+, I print AR15 parts and the PETG lowers break where the PLA+ do not. This also happens to the foregrips the recoil of just 5.56mm is enough to break them let alone the 308.
I'm not sure if this would be of benefit to you, or others reading these comments, but I used to have issues with ASA bed adhesion as well when using the default bed temps in the Bambu Studio slicer....bumping those bed temps up to 100c literally solved ALL of my adhesion issues..... give that a try, if you've been using the stock settings of most slicers, which I believe is usually 85-90c
I'm glad you mentioned the harmful fumes from ABS. I would not recommend staying in a room where an open printer is printing no matter what material is used. Regarding ASA print bed adhesion, my experience with Prusa ASA is that it sticks too well. I'm having a hard time getting it off the heatbed.
Bingo. I'm doing an upcoming video on air quality for just this reason.
I use polymaker asa and a textured pei build plate. I have never used glue stick or any sort of slurry and adhesion has been great. I don't print with brims or mouse ears and hours long prints on my voron 2.4 stick great. Only time I've had adhesion issues was on very small things like lucky13 on printables. I likely would have had the same issues with other filaments as well.
Great video. What do you use for watertight, food safe printing?
"A Tiger doesn't change its stripes..." hahaha that's such a creative view on chemical compounds! As if a materials qualities are defined by how you feel about the marketing lol
Yes. Interested in another video talking about those other filaments please.
Thank you for this very instructive video. I used three ASA filament, from three different manufacture. One has a lot of warping and doesn't stick well to the plate. I have to print a brim to have acceptables results. But using the ASA from ProFill is perfect. The first time, I didn't notice that it was not PLA. It's as simple to print as PLA, just the printing temperature should be 240 °C or 250 °C and bed temperature 70 °C or 80 °C. The I tested the ASA from Sprectrum, which is also very good. It is also as easy to print as PLA. So the kind of ASA you use can change the result a lot.
I would like to see comparisons to find the "strongest" material, sometimes I need one.
I'm new to 3D printing and I have a Bambu X1C and I share the same experience as described with PETG. It's been a pain in the ass to print. ASA has become my favorite (I haven't tried ABS yet)
As he pointed out, part of the problem with PETG is the speed. The X1C in particular *wants* to go way faster than PETG will really allow. You have to go out of your way to tune for maximum flow rate and plug that into the slicer so that it plays nice. That being said, Ive found that setting the maximum flow rate, and then turning the printer to Ludacris speed does perfectly fine for some reason.
This was super helpful. I would love to see more videos breaking down different materials and use cases!
Unfortunately lot's of things mentioned here are actually wrong or misleading.
:rolls eyes dramatically: You're right, I made a few mistakes or didn't quite explain the full thing. If you know better, I encourage you to make your own video about it.
@@thenextlayer i actually did at least point out exactly what is wrong in another very long comment, which is constructive. it's not about the making of the video it's about getting the information right beforehands. We already have enough misinformation in the world. People believe you, so you should research better in order to not give them false facts. You did not just leave out stuff. You're repeating some information that is already out there but is simply incorrect.
0:15 that's a good condition to include, for understanding the basics PLA is forgiving but it's not great for most functional parts that will see a good load (depending on the load in question, it doesn't like impact at all but a non impact load is pretty ok) or exposure to heat.
I love ASA but as you say it is hard to keep it stuck to the bed. I find smaller prints work better than larger ones.
I personally have the opposite experience with ASA. If I have a large, flat area to get stuck on the bed then its great. Getting a small print to stay put is a nightmare, though
Hi there, I use a lot of ASA (in an enclosed printer). The bed adhesion is solved using a G10 (garoçite bed) heated ovre 100 celcius (I use 105)
3D fuel pro PLA+ seems to be a game changer.. very durable and holds up over time.. still low temp but a great option
Thank you for this video. If I could suggest ideas for other videos, yes one for the other filament types like PC would be interesting. But a subject that would be interesting because it is hard to understand is about toxicity. I have a bambu lab x1c in my basement (not a great ventilation there) and I read about particules, VOC (mostly with ASA and ABS), the enclose printer from Bambu not air thight enough.... I found the bentobox ventilation like you showed on this video (is it reliable enough??)... If you have some time, my daughter's health and mine would thank you a lot. :)
I use PETG for some parts that need slightly more bendability/impact resistance(i.e. a click clip on the wall to hold vacuum tube/attachment) or slightly higher temps. I don't really wanna mess with ABS/ASA untill I have my enclosure.
Same
Been trying to print with polypropylene, I had some success on my FFA-3.
Subbed. Stoked to see future content.
Please do a video on printing things that can be water proof and non-toxic(ish) to plants.
You got it I’ll try to
This is both valuable and accessible for beginners like me: I'm keen to hear about the more exotic filaments!
Great content in this video, thanks. I’d appreciate another video on other materials too.
I do primarily functional outdoor and underwater parts so my main filaments are PETG, ASA, and TPU. I use, to a lesser extent, PC-CF, PET-CF, PETG-CF, PP, TPE, IGus I150, and Nonoilen. It would be great to know how other polymers/copolymers compare in terms of uses and printability. I do find warping on tall (>4 cm) and large (>20 cm) PETG parts to be a problem, tall and medium sized parts (>10 cm) in ASA and PP are not possible due to excessive warping. Bed adhesion for ASA is terrible, bed adhesion for PP and TPE is non-existent. Magigoo, in all its variants, helps but not enough. PP will stick to packing tape but it takes forever to clean up the mess on the plate after and large parts will rip the tape off the bed. TPE ( filaments.ca) just won’t stick to anything but when it occasionally prints the parts are awesome for flexibility and grip, really wish I could print it consistently.
Print speed vs inter-layer adhesion in PETG and ASA are issues in functional parts too.
Thanks for the comment :)
Great information. Though I'm curious how painting or sealing filaments would change the UV properties.
On it :)
Can you please make a 2nd video about PC, PP, PEEK, Nylon, PET (from self created filament from PET-bottles) and it's difference to PETG, HiPS,
Noted! Let's see how this video does :)
@@thenextlayer Please, I want to see how to print Peek at home with a temperature of 400-450°C. Alternativ this will work: igumid P190-PF
PETG also is resistant to certain chemicals that disolve ABS/ASA. If you need chemical resistance to those chemicals in your application like I do then PETG is quite useful.
I've got 2 kgs of PETG in two colors, sicne they cost around 2 times less than even PLA. That was an easy choice for me, this amount of material will be enough for a long time considering my printer's speed. My next type of filament will be TPU, and I'll try to get some PLA (I enjoyed printing with the test sample that came with my printer)
Thank you….. nicely summarized. Now we need Part 2 to cover the rest of the filament options, including the CF blends. I’m still trying to better understand how functional 3D printed nylon can be. It’s very susceptible to humidity prior to print and must be dried prior and during the print. But what about after you successfully print the dried filament? Does it still absorb moisture as a final product? And what are the cons to that?
It's not true that PA (nylon) is all that hard to handle. I print nylon all the time and never dry mine at all. I have no issues with it. My office stays fairly dry at about 45-50% rel humidity, and I have a Bambu Carbon X1, but otherwise I just drop it in and print, no drama. The craziest part? I'm using weed whacker string, not ever proper filament!
*Definitely* want a similar vid (or vids) on nylon, cf, etc!
I know you have covered the sovol sv07 already but could you make a video about enclosing it to work with asa/abs? I want to make a voron on a budget and have an sv07 in the mail
It will print ASA just fine as long as there's no drafts ;)
I just recently bought my first roll of ASA and I'm printing on a QiDi xPlus3, and honestly, bed adhesion is great. I'm using dark purple polymaker ASA at 275C nozzle, 90C bed, and 50C enclosure. yeah its overkill, but I've had LITERALLY ZERO problems thus far, with about $5 worth of filament printed.
Excellent video and very helpful. One suggestion for future comparison bids would be to finish with a summary. It's hard to keep the pros and cons straight for several products, well, for me anyway.
Aaaye, perfect timing! I just ran out of PLA and want to branch out to new materials.
NOICE! As you can see, I like to keep a variety. I love jle.vi/overture jle.vi/polymaker and jle.vi/bambulab filaments, as well as Fillamentum :)
@@thenextlayer You convinced me a while back to buy a Bambu Lab printer now you just need to convince my wife.
Also super cool to see other English speaking Israelis/American Israelis blowing up on the platform. Feeling represented.
PETG: Agree 100%.
It's also brittle AF on thicker prints, the thicker the walls the more brittle it becomes. Internal stresses, the material itself might not be, but it develops so much internal stresses that it breaks into sharp shards like glass. Dangerous AF!
I use PLA for anything decorative and have more than a dozen colors. For functional parts, in order I use PC, ASA, Nylon (with and without composites), TPU & TPE, and PETG, depending on the application. They all have pros and cons.
Wow, PC? Hardcore. I've never tried it yet but I jsut got a roll in case people want a follow-up video to this one. Never tried TPE either... who makes TPE?
@@thenextlayer With an enclosed printer, I find PC no more difficult than ASA and less of a pain than nylon. It is also stronger and more chemical resistant than both. (eg even cutting brims off or tapping holes requires noticeable force.) But the main reason I use it so often is its transparency. There’s just a lot of household parts that are transparent, from LED covers to coffee ground containers.
As for TPE and TPU, my understanding is all TPUs are technically TPEs, but not vice versa. I’m told as a rule of thumb TPE is generally softer than TPU and slightly harder to print with, but ideal for wearables or anything that touches your skin. NinjaTek Chinchilla is TPE with a shore hardness of 75A while their tougher versions are all TPU. On the other hand, MatterHackers ProFlex TPE has a shore hardness of 98A so is actually a tiny bit stiffer than their ProFlex TPU, which is 95A. (I’ve used both pretty interchangeably.)
Great work on your chanel by the way. Have really enjoyed its evolution and even checked out your non-3D printing ones.
@@automaticprojects Same experience. No problem with the Xc1. Also transparent PC works very well. maybe a little strining sometimes
@@thenextlayer TPE is the broad term for flexibles and TPU is just part of the TPE family. Therefore saying "if you print flexible filament it's TPU" is simply wrong. The softer the filament the more chance it is not a TPU at all. But a TPU is always also a TPE.
love the video! it gave me a much more in-depth look and understanding of each type of filament.. I am currently deigning something for my job to try and make it easier.. I work on the ocean as a cray fisherman and we have a serious seaweed problem and our only answer for ever has just cut it off.. until I made this design, I have completed it and made a few prototypes but I'm worried I won't be able to get the plastic sharp enough for it to actually slice through the seaweed. do you have any tips on which filament to use? I'm currently using pla and haven't tested any others? appreciate any answers
Nice! There are 2 follow-up videos, check those out too :)
i work in a manufacturing industry( mostly beverages). we use alot of seals and orings . i was wondering is there any rubber like filament , and what of 3d printer should i get so we can make the seals (watertight) that we need .
Really could use that video on more fillament types
Working on it. I need to get some experts to speak to it because I don't have experience with all of them personally.
Thanks,subscribed.Will learn more from you.