"Don't turn this into a contest. I printed mine in 20 hours. Shut up." So glad you said it. It seems like every community has that dynamic going on. Love your work Frank, but I stay for the attitude and acceptance that you display. For orange peel, depending on your timeline, I've been able to layer just about every type of paint after giving sufficient cure time. When I say "cure" I mean CURE. Rule of thumb is to smell the piece and if it smells like paint it's not cured. If you've got the time, let it sit for a week or two before throwing another coat down and it's nearly 100% successful.
Either that, or you have those gatekeeping pricks who will swat you down after finishing your first 4.5 hour print with a smug, "Four and half hours? That's NOTHING! Comeback and talk to us when you get done with a twenty-four hour print." Like, I just got this thing. Let me have my small victory!
That graphite rub finish was fantastic. Really gives that worn metal, almost pewter look. And with a helmet like this one, you're right, any imperfections become "battle damage," and it works really well. Beautifully done!!
Had worked in a body shop years ago, Yeah.. your right about the paint and sanding part and yep, it takes time. What impressed me about this vid (other than the fact that the helmet looks absolutely awesome) is how you keep it simple. You give your thoughts and instructions and your too the point. Thanks so much. Just seen for the first time and I'll be looking forward to watching more.
Great video! I have referred back to this video as I printed and painted my Mando helmet and armor. Keep doing what you're doing. Also, I am with you on the "Shut up on how many hours it took." It's a hobby, at least to me, and it is supposed to be fun. It's not a competition. We all learn from each other, that's how it should be.
I was brand new to printing last fall. I used your videos to print and paint two approved mando kits since then. Thanks for all the tutorials-including the pitfalls. 🤛
This is truly the way. This video came out right when I am finished posting my mando suit and I can say that the graphite powder is so good at making stuff turn into metal just MAKE SURE to clean the helmet through before applying it. I have done all the steps Frankly Built mentions in the video and it worked great for the suit. Thanks for sharing the way.
Can I ask, do you rub it into the paint once it dries? Like very light pressure and keep going until it shines? I've been testing aluminum powder on a t800 print, I just can't get it to work at all. Slightly tacky paint doesn't work and it just send to dull the drier paint.
@@nixqik Yes, you rub it once the paint is dry and as you said, light pressure and use circular motion. Haven't used aluminium powder, but if you are going for a metallic look, graphite powder is the way to go.
I used a 2k clear coat on that same graphite powder but it took the chrome look away and it turned more of a dark gunmetal. I put another layer of graphite on top and brought back the shine
The black mesh in office supplies, like trash cans and pencil holders, is a great way to block the view of your face/eyes. Cut it to the same shape of the visor and attach it under. You can see through it fine, cause it is right next to your eyes, but it blocks light enough that even a camera flash won't expose your face.
Another good option, using the same approach as he did is 5% ceramic one way tint. Ceramic tint gives the ability to see out while others can’t see in. It is a bit more costly though.
Great video! As you finished with the graphite rub and the final silver look was achieved, you mentioned that there was no need for a final top coat /sealer coat. While that's clearly true, I was wondering how the look would change if you gave it a final top coat of high gloss clear. Maybe too glossy for the mandalorian look you're going for? I'm about to 3d print some small items where I want the gloss to be very high, so that the silver looks like chrome if possible. just a thought. Thanks and all the best!
loved the video I have a small tip for you from an automotive painters perspective to you did everything right with guide coats and all that but the final layer of primer should be sanded to 600 grit before applying paint. primer has a "textured Finish" and it would come out a lot smoother doing this. also tip for future projects what I do to get mirror finishes on black work is after my paint coats when I go to primer I wet sand and polish between every 2 clear coat layers this is also what we do on show cars to get that sheet of glass look on top of the paint. Hope you try these out in the future :)
Great video! I need to get around to making one. Just one thing I thought might be worth mentioning, when spray painting I somehow still get some paint on my hands and I hate the waste of disposable gloves. I found the nitrile dipped gloves work really well and can be reused many times (also pretty useful for doing resin print handling)
Have to say, your videos have been the most helpful for me when it comes to printing and finishing armor, and you’ve been a really big inspiration for me to keep getting better in this hobby!
Thanks Frank, I think this is the first video I see about grapjite powder that explains about the right order of the primer, paints, clear coats and if it is needed or not something over the powder after rub, it will help me a lot
I ordered the graphite powder and sound proof panels today. I was sitting here wondering what else I might use that graphite powder for though… and then it dawned on me. That would be perfect to use for an Iron Man Mk 2 suit! Which I have plans to make someday. Thanks for the vid, Frank. Your content is always spot on. Hope you enjoy your vacation!
A beautiful finished helmet. I had that orange peal happen also on mine. I switched to all duplicolor for the gloss black and never had a problem. In the forums i had seen to after the first graphite to give it one more coat of clear (this will dull the graphite) and give it another coat of graphite to give it a little depth.
This worked so well, I highly recommend it for a metal look! I did the black gloss underneath. But I have been told a white gloss can create a bright chrome look as well.
I printed a blade of chaos(still only 1 but wanna work this out before wasting another mountain of filament) and this graphite is gonna be perfect for the blade. thx for this tip!
Hi, amazing work. Thank you for your help. When you apply graphite powder, do you directly apply the dry powder ? or do you mix it with some paint or water before in order to have a liquid solution ? At the end, don't you need to apply some vernish in order to make it more durable ?
Your videos are always so entertaining and informative, but this one in particular, i feel like your production quality has even improved as well. Great work as always
Lol guide coats are usually only light sprays not entirely paint jobs. Also to get that really smooth after the clear coat you can wet sand with 2k grit then scuff and apply the graphite rub. Thanks for the graphite recommendation and great job.
Huge thank you for all your videos and recent twitch streams! Each cosplay video always has info that assists with a wide spectrum of possible projects people work on.
Lol. I didn't hit subscribe until he said "Have you guys never touched metal before?" Bro, your channel is getting me excited to get in to 3D printing. Keep up the amazing work!
I find not shaking the paint can thoroughly enough to be major cause of peeling and scaling. Not shaking enough results in more volatile chemicals than paint being ejected, which will eat up previous layer(s). Also helps to soak the SPRAY PAINT cans in a bucket of hot water, helps dissolve the paint so when shaken it will mix much better.
So glad I found this technique. I ran my own Mando helmet as a test run, but will be using the process again to finish a Rocketeer pack that I’ve failed (on multiple occasions) to be happy with the paint scheme on. Thank you!
Great vid and techniques! You may find mounting your parts on sticks (use double sided tape/hot glue and remove with lighter fluid) will help to spray all the crevices. Also will stop surface tension sticking parts to table, splatter from holding can at wrong angle and dry spray when spraying other bits.
I know probably there is video about it but I don't know why after slice in Cura it shows 5 days to print Mando helmet, is it normal time or little bit too long?
@@buckaroosan5571 That’s kind of you to say, thank you! I just love how much the community is willing to create and share. People like Frank have really brought cosplay/printing and such to the masses.
@@danielshovelheader9415 It works best with black because of the refraction being better. But white and grey sometimes works too. Results vary greatly tho.
I'm currently working on a Bo-Katan build and you popped up in my feed. (I was watching videos as I was mindlessly sanding for hours.) I'll admit I was blown away by how easy it was to apply that silver chrome finish. Great video. I noticed you also did all of your finishing just by sanding and didn't need any Bondo (or resin or Xtc-3D) to finish your print. Nicely done.
I like that you shut down any pissing contests that may occur in the comments... just print your thing and move on. No nonsense tutorial and a lot of educational bits. Thank you!
Really incredible build. Thank you so much for all of the tips. I've been holding back on making my Phasma cosplay for years but that powder seems really promising.
I like your style, great work without taking it too serious. I 3d print functional parts for work so ive never really worked with painting/finishing( if it works, its done lol) . I really didnt know prints could look as good as your helmet. Im still gonna keep mine fast and functioning but i really respect this side of printing.
I think the term that describes the paint failure is called "checking," not orange peel. Orange peel happens when the paint goes on too dry and does not flow out causing a small bumpy texture that looks like orange peel. What you have is the paint lifting and not adhering well with the primer underneath which causes cracks or "crows feet" in the top coat.
Glad you mentioned this, otherwise I would of. I'm an Automotive spray painter by trade and this crackle reaction normally occurs when (especially aerosol) the solvents in the aerosol "reactivates" the primer layer underneath the black. To solve this, I recommend using an Automotive 2 pack primer through a spray gun at the very start. You'll only need 2 wet coats of 2k and would fill all imperfections, being actual high build content, unlike the "high build" areosols. The 2 pack being a catalyst, has a less solvent content when dry than aerosol thus lowering the risk of solvent reaction.
Awesome process of getting a nice smooth finish I will be stealing that technique of getting rid of the layer lines, The part where you say your glad that it happen with the orange peeling, although is a good teachable moment I did learn from what you said having it happen myself and not knowing why, but I could tell that was painful to say lol. But I did also learn from that speed bump along the way to perfection awesome finish good job!
That doesn't appear to be orange peel, Orange peel is from the spraying process and looks more like as it sounds the peel of an orange, that appears to be crazing or an evaporation issue, hard to tell in the video, it could be from some coats going on before previous coats have dried enough, when paint dries the thinner product in the paint evaporates out of the paint, if you put on a coat or two before drying properly the evaporation causes problems in the layers on top, often like pin holes bubbles or random dimples. Crazing is likely from the paint getting too thick and not dried enough between coats, Crazing looks more like cracks under the top surface sort of like a honeycomb but more random pattern.
I have a frostmourne replica sword that ive been dreading the idea of using a metallic paint on for the blade, this made my life so much easier. Just ordered some of this powder lol
/!\ To everyone where the graphite finish came out too dark also: I tested it again with the base coats of black, anthracite and light gray. - the black became too dark and the graphite only covered after several layers - the light gray actually became a bit too light and the graphite didn't cover well even after several coats - The graphite covered excellently on anthracite and the result was slightly brighter than with the black base coat. So for me the graphite on anthracite delivered a great result.
Funny the timing of this - I'm trying to print one on the Lulzbot Tax Pro XT with the 1.2mm print head right now. Last night's attempt failed due to a layer shift (and the failure of the Taz to have a decent way to reload filament once the sensor detects it is out)
The thing I dislike about the fingerprints is they don't come off. It's a permanently discolored spot and even if you reapply powder it will still be visible. Clear coating helps buts it greatly knocks down the shine.
🔥 This is amazing! I just bought the Bambu A1. I am brand new to 3-D printing and this video was so specific and so helpful. I appreciate it bro, thank you. 👊🏾
Thank you soo much. Im doing the Naboo N1 star fighter. I'm soo glad you also covered some basic issues if spray painting like orange pal. Because I've used spray paint before and it used to drive be crazy. Cheers !!
Really cool, but wear a mask. You’re spray painting and sanding a lot of plastic. Your lungs are not g going to be in good shape if you do this all the time.
Masks do very little due to the poor seal if makes with your face (I researched this before the whole covid mask controversy for knife making). If you're doing something you think a mask would be good for, you really should be wearing a respirator. Eyes and lungs are two things I never mess with
Incredible job! I made a skulldog mask for my daughter and now making a Sogeking mask for my son. I’m pretty new to 3d printing and your videos are super helpful and encouraging. Thanks for all that you do!
Looks great! Really like that model too! I want to try this method of visor making on my next helmet. But side note, you actually had mentioned alternating between different paint colors while sanding before some years ago. Your the person I learned it from and it helped alot.
Man, I just printed a Master Sword and was going to start figuring out how to make the blade look like metal and you graced me with your wisdom 😂 thanks man
Thanks man. I’ve been looking for the graphite method but it’s so pushy or rather very very recommended to become an expert painter and get the paints. Printing a helmet now!
WAIT!! SHIBA!!!! I have 2 of them haha love the whole effect of this helmet I am doing helmets now and low and behold out pops a shiba!! love them! thanks for the helpful hints!
i absolutly love your videos, thankyou. Only just brought 3D printer a creality and that has been a journey on its own. Love love your set up and your content. :)
Frank, I just wanna say thanks so much for this video. I used it like a bible to help make an Isaac Clarke Helmet with the graphite finish. I took your advice on how to avoid orange peel and besides one (There always is the one annoying) piece, I had no orange peel. You're the GOAT, without you I would have never known what to do as this was my first helmet.
One thing I'd love to learn more is how after you printed the helmet. How you peeled off the layers. The support layers straight off the printer. Great video thank you Helmet looks 💯
count me as one of those people who was terrified of fingerprints and how to seal this stuff hence why I never gave it a go ... but this video just gave me the guts to try this method out on my new Bo-Katan shoulder piece! can't believe I never thought to just ... reapply the powder if the finish gets gunked up and that I can *gasp* wipe finger prints away lol appreciate your candidness about the whole process!
Dude! Perfect timing. My supervisor wants me to make his son a Mando helmet, and I just bought Graphite powder for coloring the Mando pistol. And here I was worried about affording an airbrush. 😅
Finally, a video that didn't take 8 minutes to get to the subject media. Clear, concise, 100% follow through, no bullshit. You earned my sub sir, just hate it took me till 100k to find you. A channel this large operating without a sponsored ad shows to the quality of your content. Thanks!
I used the graphite powder method to do my Mando armour about a year ago. After wearing it twice at conventions it does have a few scuffs and scrapes where it probably had people knock against it. Would the best option to fix these be sanding back down the whole pieces and re doing the black gloss and graphite powder? Wasn't sure how sanding after the graphite powder would work and if I would have to get rid of all the graphite before going back with the gloss black
that graphite rub is amazing! that blew my mind watching you buff it in! I've really wanted to buy a 3D printer and start making some random props ever since I subbed to your channel lol
I love that video!!! Re paint, I ran into the same issues re peeling. Most of the time it's simply the new layer attacking the older layer (solvent dissolves part of the prior layer). That does happen a lot with spraypaint. Since I'm doing a lot of "making", I decided at one point to get a decent compressor and spraygun (both together was some 250 NZ Dollar). And lo and behold, never had this issue again (my thinner of choice being acetone which also reduces curing time by up to 50%). Nice side effect, paint comes considerably cheaper than spraycans in the long run. I also used graphite for my prop swords, prop guns etc. You can get some pretty good finish, close to chrome, depending how good the underlaying paint job is.
5:43 Legend. Aweseome video btw. Still waiting for the Elegoo Max to come back into stock so I can start printing helmets in one piece. This will be very helpful once it does.
You could recovery the mistake with wet sanding. It always works, I use to work in an exotic car autobody shop, you would not believe how many mistakes happen etc. Unless you have a zero dust paint room you will always get something.
I'm supposed to be editing my next video but I can't stop watching yours! 😂 I'm looking forward to catching up with your previous content and learning more 😊👍
Thank you for this video. I have no idea how many cans of “silver” spray paint I’ve looked at over the last week but nothing matches the mando look now I’ve ordered some graphite rub and I’m good to go. You sir are a hero and should wear a cape 😜🤣🤣
Most concise, clear zero-to-finished tutorial I’ve seen!
"Sand paper is cheaper than primer" - I actually hadn't thought about it that way, but that's a solid thought process! Love it
I use both😂
But how much you put value on your personal time.
my time is worth more than making this thing... I had no idea the time it takes... I 3d print all the time but never post process..
sand paper won't fill lines
@@GP3D-g4qsandpaper is still useful to knock down the lines before going in with a filler.
The process of the graphite rub was absolutely mesmerizing to watch. So satisfying to see the silver just appear
"Don't turn this into a contest. I printed mine in 20 hours. Shut up."
So glad you said it. It seems like every community has that dynamic going on.
Love your work Frank, but I stay for the attitude and acceptance that you display.
For orange peel, depending on your timeline, I've been able to layer just about every type of paint after giving sufficient cure time. When I say "cure" I mean CURE. Rule of thumb is to smell the piece and if it smells like paint it's not cured. If you've got the time, let it sit for a week or two before throwing another coat down and it's nearly 100% successful.
Either that, or you have those gatekeeping pricks who will swat you down after finishing your first 4.5 hour print with a smug, "Four and half hours? That's NOTHING! Comeback and talk to us when you get done with a twenty-four hour print." Like, I just got this thing. Let me have my small victory!
What if you used a chrome spray??
99% of 3D printers are old fat guys in sheds that print stuff with no practical use.
@@truantray You been spying on me,,,🤔😀
@@truantray Maybe a Mandalorian helmet is practical in a shopping center during the wars at sommer sales 😁, but otherwise...
That graphite rub finish was fantastic. Really gives that worn metal, almost pewter look. And with a helmet like this one, you're right, any imperfections become "battle damage," and it works really well. Beautifully done!!
Had worked in a body shop years ago, Yeah.. your right about the paint and sanding part and yep, it takes time. What impressed me about this vid (other than the fact that the helmet looks absolutely awesome) is how you keep it simple. You give your thoughts and instructions and your too the point. Thanks so much. Just seen for the first time and I'll be looking forward to watching more.
Great video! I have referred back to this video as I printed and painted my Mando helmet and armor. Keep doing what you're doing. Also, I am with you on the "Shut up on how many hours it took." It's a hobby, at least to me, and it is supposed to be fun. It's not a competition. We all learn from each other, that's how it should be.
I was brand new to printing last fall. I used your videos to print and paint two approved mando kits since then. Thanks for all the tutorials-including the pitfalls. 🤛
This is truly the way. This video came out right when I am finished posting my mando suit and I can say that the graphite powder is so good at making stuff turn into metal just MAKE SURE to clean the helmet through before applying it. I have done all the steps Frankly Built mentions in the video and it worked great for the suit. Thanks for sharing the way.
Can I ask, do you rub it into the paint once it dries? Like very light pressure and keep going until it shines? I've been testing aluminum powder on a t800 print, I just can't get it to work at all. Slightly tacky paint doesn't work and it just send to dull the drier paint.
@@nixqik Yes, you rub it once the paint is dry and as you said, light pressure and use circular motion. Haven't used aluminium powder, but if you are going for a metallic look, graphite powder is the way to go.
Do you have a link to the graphite powder? Or where they'd have it locally? Walmart? Hobby Lobby? Harbor freight?
If anyone I know gets a 3D printer and asks me for tutorials, I will send them to your channel, Frank. You are an amazing teacher.
I used a 2k clear coat on that same graphite powder but it took the chrome look away and it turned more of a dark gunmetal. I put another layer of graphite on top and brought back the shine
love to see you promoting galactic armory, feels like the two youtubers that got me into 3d printing made a collab of some sort.
The black mesh in office supplies, like trash cans and pencil holders, is a great way to block the view of your face/eyes. Cut it to the same shape of the visor and attach it under. You can see through it fine, cause it is right next to your eyes, but it blocks light enough that even a camera flash won't expose your face.
over at mmcc they use welding visors!
Another good option, using the same approach as he did is 5% ceramic one way tint. Ceramic tint gives the ability to see out while others can’t see in. It is a bit more costly though.
I never wanted to 3D print a Mando helmet ... until now. The graphite rub just looks amazing. Thanks for making a great how to video on it.
Great video! As you finished with the graphite rub and the final silver look was achieved, you mentioned that there was no need for a final top coat /sealer coat. While that's clearly true, I was wondering how the look would change if you gave it a final top coat of high gloss clear. Maybe too glossy for the mandalorian look you're going for? I'm about to 3d print some small items where I want the gloss to be very high, so that the silver looks like chrome if possible. just a thought. Thanks and all the best!
loved the video I have a small tip for you from an automotive painters perspective to you did everything right with guide coats and all that but the final layer of primer should be sanded to 600 grit before applying paint. primer has a "textured Finish" and it would come out a lot smoother doing this.
also tip for future projects what I do to get mirror finishes on black work is after my paint coats when I go to primer I wet sand and polish between every 2 clear coat layers this is also what we do on show cars to get that sheet of glass look on top of the paint.
Hope you try these out in the future :)
Great video! I need to get around to making one. Just one thing I thought might be worth mentioning, when spray painting I somehow still get some paint on my hands and I hate the waste of disposable gloves. I found the nitrile dipped gloves work really well and can be reused many times (also pretty useful for doing resin print handling)
ty!
Have to say, your videos have been the most helpful for me when it comes to printing and finishing armor, and you’ve been a really big inspiration for me to keep getting better in this hobby!
Thanks Frank, I think this is the first video I see about grapjite powder that explains about the right order of the primer, paints, clear coats and if it is needed or not something over the powder after rub, it will help me a lot
I find using adaptive layer height is so good for making prints take so much less sanding
It's great that you like these, you're so passionate and joyful about it
I ordered the graphite powder and sound proof panels today. I was sitting here wondering what else I might use that graphite powder for though… and then it dawned on me. That would be perfect to use for an Iron Man Mk 2 suit! Which I have plans to make someday.
Thanks for the vid, Frank. Your content is always spot on. Hope you enjoy your vacation!
Yeah, the sound proof foam looks like a game-changer for me. To the Amazon!
A beautiful finished helmet. I had that orange peal happen also on mine. I switched to all duplicolor for the gloss black and never had a problem. In the forums i had seen to after the first graphite to give it one more coat of clear (this will dull the graphite) and give it another coat of graphite to give it a little depth.
this has promoted me to make my helmet better then ive ever made it thank you brother keep up the great work you do much love
This worked so well, I highly recommend it for a metal look! I did the black gloss underneath. But I have been told a white gloss can create a bright chrome look as well.
I printed a blade of chaos(still only 1 but wanna work this out before wasting another mountain of filament) and this graphite is gonna be perfect for the blade. thx for this tip!
Hi, amazing work. Thank you for your help. When you apply graphite powder, do you directly apply the dry powder ? or do you mix it with some paint or water before in order to have a liquid solution ? At the end, don't you need to apply some vernish in order to make it more durable ?
Your videos are always so entertaining and informative, but this one in particular, i feel like your production quality has even improved as well. Great work as always
Lol guide coats are usually only light sprays not entirely paint jobs. Also to get that really smooth after the clear coat you can wet sand with 2k grit then scuff and apply the graphite rub. Thanks for the graphite recommendation and great job.
That thumbnail looks great. Probably because I helped yesterday. But seriously that helmet looks absolutely amazing
Huge thank you for all your videos and recent twitch streams! Each cosplay video always has info that assists with a wide spectrum of possible projects people work on.
Turned out great! Also love seeing how far the quality of your videos has some, the transition at 6:13 was sick
Lol. I didn't hit subscribe until he said "Have you guys never touched metal before?" Bro, your channel is getting me excited to get in to 3D printing. Keep up the amazing work!
Thank you haha 🤣 material science is wild huh?
I find not shaking the paint can thoroughly enough to be major cause of peeling and scaling.
Not shaking enough results in more volatile chemicals than paint being ejected, which will eat up previous layer(s).
Also helps to soak the SPRAY PAINT cans in a bucket of hot water, helps dissolve the paint so when shaken it will mix much better.
So glad I found this technique. I ran my own Mando helmet as a test run, but will be using the process again to finish a Rocketeer pack that I’ve failed (on multiple occasions) to be happy with the paint scheme on. Thank you!
Great vid and techniques! You may find mounting your parts on sticks (use double sided tape/hot glue and remove with lighter fluid) will help to spray all the crevices. Also will stop surface tension sticking parts to table, splatter from holding can at wrong angle and dry spray when spraying other bits.
I'm getting my Ender Max Neo next week and I just can't stop watching your videos.
I know probably there is video about it but I don't know why after slice in Cura it shows 5 days to print Mando helmet, is it normal time or little bit too long?
Great work man. I shot my version of this video 4 years ago but never got around to editing it together! 😊 Thanks for getting it done. 👍🏻👍🏻
I always credit you for really bringing graphite to the cosplay community. Thank you forever greatful.
@@buckaroosan5571 That’s kind of you to say, thank you! I just love how much the community is willing to create and share. People like Frank have really brought cosplay/printing and such to the masses.
@@coregeek I'm curious about the graphite powder, does it need the black paint as a base or can it be other colors or finishes? thanks for any help!!
@@danielshovelheader9415 It works best with black because of the refraction being better. But white and grey sometimes works too. Results vary greatly tho.
I'm currently working on a Bo-Katan build and you popped up in my feed. (I was watching videos as I was mindlessly sanding for hours.) I'll admit I was blown away by how easy it was to apply that silver chrome finish. Great video. I noticed you also did all of your finishing just by sanding and didn't need any Bondo (or resin or Xtc-3D) to finish your print. Nicely done.
Yep! Sometimes people just over complicate projects haha 😆 I get it
@@FranklyBuilt Thanks for teaching me a lot today. I appreciate it. Looking forward to trying your processes in the future.
I was just planning on making this! I saw your mandalorian helmet and I decided to make one too! thanks for the tutorial
I like that you shut down any pissing contests that may occur in the comments... just print your thing and move on. No nonsense tutorial and a lot of educational bits. Thank you!
Really incredible build. Thank you so much for all of the tips. I've been holding back on making my Phasma cosplay for years but that powder seems really promising.
I like your style, great work without taking it too serious. I 3d print functional parts for work so ive never really worked with painting/finishing( if it works, its done lol) . I really didnt know prints could look as good as your helmet. Im still gonna keep mine fast and functioning but i really respect this side of printing.
This is the best thing for a metallic look, besides electroplating. Definitely cheaper. I might try this on my extra T-800 bust.
This is the best 3d printing channel. ever.
I think the term that describes the paint failure is called "checking," not orange peel. Orange peel happens when the paint goes on too dry and does not flow out causing a small bumpy texture that looks like orange peel. What you have is the paint lifting and not adhering well with the primer underneath which causes cracks or "crows feet" in the top coat.
how can i prevent this?
Glad you mentioned this, otherwise I would of. I'm an Automotive spray painter by trade and this crackle reaction normally occurs when (especially aerosol) the solvents in the aerosol "reactivates" the primer layer underneath the black. To solve this, I recommend using an Automotive 2 pack primer through a spray gun at the very start. You'll only need 2 wet coats of 2k and would fill all imperfections, being actual high build content, unlike the "high build" areosols. The 2 pack being a catalyst, has a less solvent content when dry than aerosol thus lowering the risk of solvent reaction.
That graphite rub turned out amazing. I'm printing out my first helmet right now, and if it turns out well I might have to try that method.
This video was better and more interesting than the entire 3rd season of the mandalorian.
Agreed
Awesome process of getting a nice smooth finish I will be stealing that technique of getting rid of the layer lines, The part where you say your glad that it happen with the orange peeling, although is a good teachable moment I did learn from what you said having it happen myself and not knowing why, but I could tell that was painful to say lol. But I did also learn from that speed bump along the way to perfection awesome finish good job!
That doesn't appear to be orange peel, Orange peel is from the spraying process and looks more like as it sounds the peel of an orange, that appears to be crazing or an evaporation issue, hard to tell in the video, it could be from some coats going on before previous coats have dried enough, when paint dries the thinner product in the paint evaporates out of the paint, if you put on a coat or two before drying properly the evaporation causes problems in the layers on top, often like pin holes bubbles or random dimples. Crazing is likely from the paint getting too thick and not dried enough between coats, Crazing looks more like cracks under the top surface sort of like a honeycomb but more random pattern.
That all in one dupli paint probably needs extra cure time for sure
I agree I have that same look when I have conditions that dry the paint TOO fast. It sucks cause I want it to stay fast😂
dude am soo glad you address the orange peel problem bc i always get that and now i know why
I have a frostmourne replica sword that ive been dreading the idea of using a metallic paint on for the blade, this made my life so much easier. Just ordered some of this powder lol
Looking forward to purchasing my first 3d printer, and working my way up to something like that. Looks amazing.
/!\ To everyone where the graphite finish came out too dark also:
I tested it again with the base coats of black, anthracite and light gray.
- the black became too dark and the graphite only covered after several layers
- the light gray actually became a bit too light and the graphite didn't cover well even after several coats
- The graphite covered excellently on anthracite and the result was slightly brighter than with the black base coat.
So for me the graphite on anthracite delivered a great result.
Funny the timing of this - I'm trying to print one on the Lulzbot Tax Pro XT with the 1.2mm print head right now. Last night's attempt failed due to a layer shift (and the failure of the Taz to have a decent way to reload filament once the sensor detects it is out)
As soon as I clicked on the video, I got a 3-D printer ad
LOL! same😂😂
That’s cookies for ya
Good
I wonder why, it's not like TH-cam knows what type of video this is 🙄
@@mythicul dude did I ask 🙄
That's one of the better graphite rub helmets I've seen!
The thing I dislike about the fingerprints is they don't come off. It's a permanently discolored spot and even if you reapply powder it will still be visible. Clear coating helps buts it greatly knocks down the shine.
🔥 This is amazing! I just bought the Bambu A1. I am brand new to 3-D printing and this video was so specific and so helpful. I appreciate it bro, thank you. 👊🏾
I thought next video will be on Blue Beetle Helmet
Next Saturday
Next week
@@FranklyBuilt awesome, waiting for it
Thank you soo much. Im doing the Naboo N1 star fighter. I'm soo glad you also covered some basic issues if spray painting like orange pal. Because I've used spray paint before and it used to drive be crazy. Cheers !!
just use plastic body filler after primer and sand it, spray paint, and last is clear coat
I gotta admit you sir are a natural.
Really cool, but wear a mask. You’re spray painting and sanding a lot of plastic. Your lungs are not g going to be in good shape if you do this all the time.
He's too alpha male for one
I say it builds character💯💯💯
@@YellowMustard_builds up toxins in your lungs 🥶
Masks do very little due to the poor seal if makes with your face (I researched this before the whole covid mask controversy for knife making). If you're doing something you think a mask would be good for, you really should be wearing a respirator. Eyes and lungs are two things I never mess with
@@brett9382 ohh i didnt know this,, what do you do if you cant get a respirator?
From a 97% model size to a full 100% with all that paint , primers and fillers. The guy is a genius.
Print the thing, brush some UV resin on it, let it settle and cure in the sun, light wet sanding, done. Wet gloss.
Awesome!!! I am on the next stage of getting my armor to the next level and this is exactly the tutorial I need! THANK YOU!!!
Obligatory “this is the way” comment. 😇
Incredible job! I made a skulldog mask for my daughter and now making a Sogeking mask for my son. I’m pretty new to 3d printing and your videos are super helpful and encouraging. Thanks for all that you do!
Looks great! Really like that model too! I want to try this method of visor making on my next helmet. But side note, you actually had mentioned alternating between different paint colors while sanding before some years ago. Your the person I learned it from and it helped alot.
Awesome video - I also made my entire Mandalorian cosplay with graphite powder - The finish just look fantastic
Nothing beats the feeling of waking up to a franklt built video on a saturday morning
Man, I just printed a Master Sword and was going to start figuring out how to make the blade look like metal and you graced me with your wisdom 😂 thanks man
Thanks man. I’ve been looking for the graphite method but it’s so pushy or rather very very recommended to become an expert painter and get the paints. Printing a helmet now!
love the Graphite technique, very impressive, Thanks for the video, very nice effect.
WAIT!! SHIBA!!!! I have 2 of them haha love the whole effect of this helmet I am doing helmets now and low and behold out pops a shiba!! love them! thanks for the helpful hints!
i absolutly love your videos, thankyou. Only just brought 3D printer a creality and that has been a journey on its own. Love love your set up and your content. :)
My p1p shows up Tuesday. My first FDM 3dp! This is the FIRST thing I’m doing (after benchy of course)! Thank you for this video!!!!
Frank, I just wanna say thanks so much for this video. I used it like a bible to help make an Isaac Clarke Helmet with the graphite finish. I took your advice on how to avoid orange peel and besides one (There always is the one annoying) piece, I had no orange peel. You're the GOAT, without you I would have never known what to do as this was my first helmet.
One thing I'd love to learn more is how after you printed the helmet. How you peeled off the layers. The support layers straight off the printer. Great video thank you Helmet looks 💯
count me as one of those people who was terrified of fingerprints and how to seal this stuff hence why I never gave it a go ... but this video just gave me the guts to try this method out on my new Bo-Katan shoulder piece! can't believe I never thought to just ... reapply the powder if the finish gets gunked up and that I can *gasp* wipe finger prints away lol appreciate your candidness about the whole process!
I do what I can haha 😂
Dude! Perfect timing. My supervisor wants me to make his son a Mando helmet, and I just bought Graphite powder for coloring the Mando pistol. And here I was worried about affording an airbrush. 😅
did this same technique on a thor love and thunder helmet and it turned out amazing!
I used spray tint for tail lights on my visor. Turnout looking pretty good. We will see how it holds up
Thanks
Finally, a video that didn't take 8 minutes to get to the subject media. Clear, concise, 100% follow through, no bullshit. You earned my sub sir, just hate it took me till 100k to find you. A channel this large operating without a sponsored ad shows to the quality of your content. Thanks!
Well thank you!
I will be honest tho…I have plenty of sponsored ads haha this video just didn’t lol
So AWESOME! Hopefully I can use some of these techniques on my WW84 gold armor helmet!
I used the graphite powder method to do my Mando armour about a year ago. After wearing it twice at conventions it does have a few scuffs and scrapes where it probably had people knock against it. Would the best option to fix these be sanding back down the whole pieces and re doing the black gloss and graphite powder? Wasn't sure how sanding after the graphite powder would work and if I would have to get rid of all the graphite before going back with the gloss black
I have a chrome lacquer which works great but I think that graphite rub is a great everyman solution.
really like that metal look at the end.
I use pledge floor gloss in a air sprayer to seal and clear coat on Graphite powder.
that graphite rub is amazing! that blew my mind watching you buff it in! I've really wanted to buy a 3D printer and start making some random props ever since I subbed to your channel lol
I love that video!!!
Re paint, I ran into the same issues re peeling. Most of the time it's simply the new layer attacking the older layer (solvent dissolves part of the prior layer). That does happen a lot with spraypaint.
Since I'm doing a lot of "making", I decided at one point to get a decent compressor and spraygun (both together was some 250 NZ Dollar). And lo and behold, never had this issue again (my thinner of choice being acetone which also reduces curing time by up to 50%). Nice side effect, paint comes considerably cheaper than spraycans in the long run.
I also used graphite for my prop swords, prop guns etc. You can get some pretty good finish, close to chrome, depending how good the underlaying paint job is.
5:43
Legend.
Aweseome video btw. Still waiting for the Elegoo Max to come back into stock so I can start printing helmets in one piece. This will be very helpful once it does.
You could recovery the mistake with wet sanding. It always works, I use to work in an exotic car autobody shop, you would not believe how many mistakes happen etc. Unless you have a zero dust paint room you will always get something.
Very cool video, love the step by step, and even seeing the failure. I like knowing that even the streamers have errors. Thanks
I'm supposed to be editing my next video but I can't stop watching yours! 😂
I'm looking forward to catching up with your previous content and learning more 😊👍
Thank you for this video. I have no idea how many cans of “silver” spray paint I’ve looked at over the last week but nothing matches the mando look now I’ve ordered some graphite rub and I’m good to go. You sir are a hero and should wear a cape 😜🤣🤣
You have inspired me to start 3d printing thank you so much!