I had ASA Poisoning! 25 IMPORTANT Filament Answers!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- Our ULTIMATE filament question and answer series for PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA and Nylon! We take the most commonly asked questions from our community about these filaments and answer them in as much detail as possible! We cover everything from recycling 3D prints to enclosures, fumes, pricing and more! HUGE thank you to @Polymaker for sponsoring our community channels and providing ALL of the filament we could ever use!
Please support our content with our AWESOME PLA Pro Creator Spools!
LM Sparkle Green (Affiliate Link):
loyal.ms/LMSparkleGreen
3D Print General FDE (Affiliate Link):
loyal.ms/3DPrintGeneralFDE
All website and affiliate links mentioned in the video:
Polymaker:
loyal.ms/polymaker
Slice Engineering ( @SliceEngineering ):
loyal.ms/slice
QIDI X-PLUS 3:
loyal.ms/xplus3
FixDry Filament Dryer:
Use code LMSHOW6 to SAVE!
loyal.ms/fixdry
Vision Miner - Nano Polymer Adhesive:
visionminer.com
TH3D Studio ( @TH3DStudio ):
th3dstudio.com
MatterHackers ( @MatterHackers ):
loyal.ms/matterhackers
--
Use the following chapter markers to jump right to the filament type or the questions you might be interested in!
00:00 Introduction
00:30 PLA - Polylactic Acid
00:39 PLA - How do you store your PLA?
01:18 PLA - What is a good price for PLA?
02:18 PLA - Is PLA safe to print? Is PLA toxic?
03:14 PLA - What is the difference between PLA and PLA Pro or PLA+?
04:16 PLA - Can you recycle PLA?
05:30 PLA - Are glow in the dark, wood, or PolyTerra filaments abrasive?
06:27 PLA - Polymaker PolyTerra - Plants Trees
07:18 PETG - Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol
07:40 PETG - What is the difference between PLA and PETG?
09:09 PETG - Is PETG food safe?
09:56 PETG - How do I keep PETG from being messy?
11:02 PETG - Is PETG hygroscopic? Does PETG absorb moisture?
11:57 PETG - Can you recycle PETG?
12:55 ABS - Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene
13:18 ABS - Why would you 3d print with ABS?
13:44 ABS - Do you need to dry ABS filament?
14:15 ABS - Does ABS need an enclosure for 3d printing?
15:34 ABS - Is ABS 3d printing toxic? VOCs?
16:06 ABS - Can you recycle ABS?
16:37 ASA - Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate
16:59 ASA - What is the difference between ABS and ASA filament?
18:27 ASA - Can you get sick from ABS and ASA fumes or VOCs?
19:47 ASA - Does a 3d printer enclosure protect you from fumes?
20:26 ASA - Can you recycle ASA?
21:25 Nylon - Regular Nylon, Carbon Fiber Nylon, Kevlar Nylon, Glass Nylon
21:58 Nylon - Is Nylon worth the price or cost?
23:15 Nylon - What do you need to 3D print Nylon?
25:14 Nylon - Do you need a heated chamber to 3D print Nylon?
25:58 Nylon - Can Nylon be recycled?
26:42 Thank you to our TH-cam Members! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
If I'm not mistaken, the biodegradability of PLA is tricky. If you put it in the field, it will never change. It's only biodegradable in an industrial composter. CNC kitchen made a video showcasing all of this,
Never is a long time! 😉
It will eventually break down, but it isn’t as fast or as easy as many people think. Industrial composting will produce much quicker results for sure.
I know the video of CNC Kitchen and it does not right to PLA. PLA is biodegradable, but it will take a long time when you throw it in your own compost heap. When temperatures reach between 70 and 90 degrees Celsius and cut to fine particles, it will degrade in a couple of days. We produce a very hard type of PLA, which is used for traffic signs and put on sides of buildings. You want those products to last at least 20 years. When a traffic sign is broken, and parts come into nature, you want that to decompose. That is exactly what PLA does.
Common PLA does breaks down fairly quickly under some environmental conditions…. Strong UV destroys it in about a year, it loses all structural strength and crumbles into small fragments. Constant exposure to water seems to accelerate this. I can send you samples if you want.
That's because "biodegradable" means that something will break down in a few weeks or months. For that definition no, PLA isn't biodegradable if it isn't in an industrial facility.
But PLA does break down over time, it's just in the span of years, not weeks. Which is fine if it's a landfill environment where it will stay there for years
@@LoyalMoses Assuming protons decay everything breaks down eventually but that's not "biodegradable". :D
Another thing with apparently cheap filament - check that it's a 1kg reel, not 500g or even 250g
Fantastic advice! I’ve made that mistake before!
$30 for 200 grams of copper fill 😢
@@LoyalMoses You gave this advice yourself at 22:00 lol, idk why this commenter made it seem like they added it onto your video
Tip for printing cookie cutters: put plastic wrap over the cookie cutter, that way the print never makes contact with the food. Not my original idea, I saw it somewhere else.
That’s a fantastic tip!
Yes, even if the material itself might be foodsafe, the nozzles, etc... are not food grade certified and might have lead or other contaminates.
@@jasonhurdlow6607 and 3d printing is never truly foodsafe unless maybe you coat it because of the layers they can grow bacteria
🤢
Absolutely great video! Very informative. I'd love to see another video with more common Engineering materials like PC or TPU.
Thank you Marco! We’ll do another one for sure with the more advanced filaments!
Loved the 3D Print General spool proudly displayed. Great video.
💜
Came here to say to say this
I have a feeling your channel is about to get more popular. I found you from a recommendation from YT and I'm not disappointed! Fantastic video and very informative!
Thank you Matt!
I use my printers for functional, mechanical parts and prototyping (yes, I did live the Benchy-life in the beginning), but I've experimented with so many filaments and have found myself using 3 filaments - PLA+ for 85%, PETG for heat-sensitive parts, and general TPU for softer "rubber" parts. I've found that my 3 goto filaments are IIID Max PLA+ and PETG, Polyterra PLA+ (I don't use PM PETG because of the paper spools and my drier box operations), and SunLU's TPU.
That’s awesome! Thank you for sharing!
I didn't even know how to use any CAD software when I got a 3d printer. Now I can whip up most anything I need and have it printed in day. Personally I've gone over to the darkside and started using ABS more and more, it's really not that hard to work with unless you're printing something that's fairly large or don't own a cardboard box to stick over your printer.
For heat sensitive parts, you might even consider PET. Not PETG, PET without the glycol, since the glycol in PETG actually reduces its melting temperature.
This is such an undiscovered gem of a youtube channel, the information presented here was top notch and in a fantastic format. Instant subscription from me!
That’s very kind! Thank you! 💜
Great resource to keep on hand for filament.
Thanks Michael!
This was great. So much useful information. I've just bought my first filament drying box and it has been a game changer for my ASA prints. More content like this please!
Thank you! It was a long video! 💜
I started watching this clip when it first came out but I didn't have the time to watch it all. Now, with the holidays, I was able to finish it and I must say I'm pleasantly impressed by the quick, down to Earth, no BS answers! Subscribed :)
Thank you! That is very kind!
"...and animals - they breathe too. So be careful of that" hahaha, love it
😁
Great topic, thanks 👍
Thank you!
Thank you for the video. I am fairly new to 3D printing and this answered almost all of my questions about the different materials.
I once ordered a roll of PLA for only $7 on Amazon. When it arrived, I found out why it was $7 - turns out the roll was only 250 grams instead of the usual one kilogram. Suited me fine because I don’t print orange very often lol
Oh no! I have done that before too. Lots of 750g spools out there too!
@@LoyalMoses The dremel ones are the worst. In canada they're pricier on amazon than a 1kg spool of Polymaker PLA, but it's 750g.
Don't they say how much is on the roll? I have been buying PLA for over 5 years and have NEVER not seen the amount if you read the complete description. Just sayin'.
@@3dtexan890 yeah I probably should have read the description more thoroughly lol
@@3dtexan890 they do, but charging 50$ Canadian for a 750g spool is predatory, and sometimes it’s not the manufacturer doing the listing and they’ll just put it in the keyword soup that is the item’s title on amazon and hide it in the technical details deep in the description. Lots of dark patterns and not so moral choices
I so love my Nevermore filter for ABS/ASA printing. Just remember, 50 hour or 30 days and swap out the carbon media!
That would be a fun system to test!
Triple carbon filtered and HEPA filter Bento Box has been great as well. Standard carbon filters stuck in the printer aren't going to do much.
I upgraded to a nevermore stealthmax which is huge. The carbon in that lasts a super long time.
I'd not heard of ASA poisoning and has me rethinking my setup. I may have been effected int he past and not realised ! thanks for the great info.
Hey! Glad to see you here! It’s a real thing for sure, can be very dangerous.
Same here. I realized it only after watching this video. All it took was a couple of minutes to check on the print and boom, headache
Polyterra is my goto PLA (love the matte finish!) and I have printed dozens of rolls and seen no problems with my nozzles wearing (I haven't changed my Revo since I got it last November!)!
Awesome!
But on their Discord server they didn't deny it's more abrasive than PLA, just it's much less than generic filled PLAs.
This is why I have started putting even my enclosed printers that I print ASA on in a secondary enclosure with an vent out the window that has an inline charcoal filter. So even what I am putting outside, is a touch cleaner.
Super smart to be safe! Thanks Zolon!
Now this sounds like so much work I get tired just thinking of it. Congrats for walking the extra mile on both personal safety and environmental
Good idea!
I always run a negative air flow straight out the window. Great way to guarantee you don't get sick😅
Best trait of PETG is it's strong and can still flex. Excellent for things like belt clips etc.
just like most PLA+ filaments except worse
@@knifeyonline There is so much more to it than that, the mechanical properties are not that simple. There is heat resistance, layer adhesion, abrasion resistance, impact resistance and creep is all superior in PETG compared to most PLA+/pro.
This has been one of the most informative and interesting videos for the types of polymers I’ve seen so far! Thank you!!
Thank you!
What is the best support material for Nylon? Eg. you have a mult-material printer, should you use PETG/ABS as breakaway support? or what else?
That's a really great question! I will have to do some research and testing to find out.
First time seeing your videos and while I didn’t really need to watch a video like this I thoroughly enjoyed it and the way you explained and shared a lot of this information. For sure will be watching a couple more videos of yours!
Thank you! That is very kind of you to say. 💜
thank you for the great info. I look forwarded to checking out your other videos. I was really just going to check out the info about PLA and Petg, but watched until the end due to how easy to listen to and knowledgeable you are.
Awesome, thank you!
Salute for the 3D Print General tribute 🫡
🫡
Hi Moses, Thank you for this in-depth lesson about all the different filaments available, the AI assistant is a nice touch too.
Thanks! That’s not AI! That’s my wife! 😃💜
@@LoyalMoses Hi Moses, sorry, din't realize it was your wife, she is very comprehensible and eloquent, that's why I though it was AI. 😅
I think she was a bit nervous so she sounded robotic! 💜🔥
Learnt a couple thing from the video but just wanted to say, wholesome video man. It sounds like you are really passionate
I appreciate that! Thank you! 💜
Thanks for all the information.
You are very welcome! 💜
finally a total view and short and sweat information. Great job thanks.
Thank you!
Amazing knowledge share. Thank you mate
Thank you!
All my printers are in enclosures all are ducted to an exhaust port on the window of my office. Spent a lot of time designing manifolds and backflow prevention valves, and I have to regenerate desiccant constantly due to the moisture coming in, but it's worth it. I work almost exclusively with ASA, and the machines are running 24/7. The stuff is the best.
Hey! That is very cool! How are you drying your desiccant? ASA is an awesome material!
Great vid! I know all of this already, and still watched the whole thing.
Thank you Shane! I sincerely appreciate that. 💜
First time watching your videos. What a great place to start. Great information, and well done.
Thank you I really appreciate that!
Came here because YT just suggested this video ^^
Interesting video, you get my sub.
Hey! Welcome and THANK YOU! That's awesome.
ASA ... its fancy ✨️🥂✨️
Great video - you are incredibly knowledge compared to other channels.
Very kind! Thank you.
Hey Mr/Mrs LM. Do you recommend a hardened steel or hybrid nozzle replacement for normal non-abrasive PLA? I know you switched your nozzle for Neptune 3 Max to a 0.8mm. I have been thinking about replacing the nozzle on my Neptune 3 Plus for something that is higher quality and will last longer
I was using cheap 10 cent brass nozzles for a long time I switched to a nozzle x and the quality of my prints went up. We spend so much upgrading our printers then ignore the very last thing your filament is going to touch.
Regular is fine, but if you are going to switch, make it hardened steel or a composite like a Slice GammaMaster nozzle. loyal.ms/slice (aff)
The main things to consider is max temperature, abrasion resistance and thermal conductivity. Higher thermal conductivity can mean higher flow rates or cooler printing temperature. Most nozzles have a max temperature at or above 300 C, so if you only print below that then any type is fine.
Brass has alright temperature resistance (300 C I believe) and good thermal transfer but bad abrasion resistance. Hardened steel has good abrasion resistance but low thermal conductivity, meaning you might have to increase your print temperature (sometimes by up to 10 C) and it may lower your max flow rate if you print really fast, the themal conductivity is less that a quarter of that of brass. Hardened steel nozzles only stay hard to around 350 C I believe, so they lose their abrasion resistance above that. Stainless steel has lower thermal conductivity than brass but more than hardened steel but doesnt have as much abrasion resistance as hardened steel. Nickel plated copper nozzles can go up to 500 C and have 3 x higher thermal conductivity than brass, they arent abrasion resistant though but the nickel coating makes them slightly non stick.
Those are the most common and cheap nozzle types, you get special blends like the E3D nozzle X. For really high abrasion resistance and high temperature you can use diamond or ruby nozzles, most of the nozzle is brass or plated copper but the tip is diamond or ruby, so they are very abrasion resistant whilst still having good thermal conductivity, the plated copper ones with diamond are best as they are high temperature too and very high conductivity. Then you have tungsten carbide, you can get full nozzles or brass nozzles with tungsten carbide tips, they are very hard and hence absrasion resistant, almost as much as diamond and they have a similar thermal conductivity to brass, and can handle very high temperatures, so they are a very good option too. Then you get all kinds of coated nozzles, coated in PTFE or other things.
The brass, steel and copper nozzles are generally not too expensive, even from E3D, the nozzle X is more expensive, the ruby and diamond are very expensive and the tungsten carbide is in the middle with the full tungsten nozzles being more expensive than the brass ones with tungsten tips.
Good and concise intro to filaments for beginners 👍
Thank you! 💜
What a great video - all the information is there without any of the fluffery buffery - the recommendations are seamless, and I've learned an awful lot from just one video. You & Mrs LM have got yourself a new subscriber!
Hey! That is so very kind of you! Thank you! I'll read my wife your comment!
Ok a few question I'm into vehicles and farm equipment 3D printing I need clear filament for cab windows and what is the rubbery one I need for soft tires and crawler tractor tracks for replacement ?
Loved the video, missed your assessment of PC filament.
Thanks! We have another video coming with more technical filaments! 🔥
As a converted nylonganggang printer…Nylon that is glass or CF filled can be printed without an enclosure IF….IF you have a stable ambient temperature in the room. With that said, I’ve printed open air as low as 67F with no issues. But there were no drafts or temperature swings
The room becomes a giant enclosure! Thank you, this is true, we’ve printed all sorts by keeping a room nice and warm but mostly keeping drafts out.
Where I live we have "normal" trash marked as energy waste so those go to burning places where they make heat for city area. We have separated bins for metal, glass, paper, and bio.
I have put supports from PLA and PETG prints for energy waste.
Thank you for the comment! I think this is more common than people know.
Desiccant in a tight sealing tub would be my go to if worried about moisture. Great video. I wanted to know the differences badly.
Smart! Keep that moisture out, then no need to dry it! And thank you!
That's what I use. Plastic tote with a gasket and a "rechargeable" Eva Dry desiccant unit.
Do desiccants stop working after a while
@@KieranMahoney Yes. There are disposable types and types you can dry out and reuse. The one I use changes colors when wet. It has a built in wall plug that powers a weak heating element to dry it back out. Just swap it with a dry one and plug in the wet one. I think the air circulation for drying it out could be better to make it more efficient, but they work.
There is a lab grade one called Drierite. That also changes colors. To dry it out I believe the directions call to spread it in a thin layer on a baking sheet and put it in the oven at a certain temperature if I recall correctly.
I bought some of the drierite a long long time ago for a project before 3d printers were a thing. I think I still have a jar of it someplace.
I'm sure there are others, but that's the two I have experience with except for disposable packets that are part of packaging.
Ironically, ended up using Drierite at a job a good while after I bought some for my project. It involved draining tanks of liquid resin into a hopper then into a bag. The dessicant was used on an intake tube to keep the air in the hopper dry that displaces the volume as the it drained. Dry air was hooked directly to the big tank.
thank you :D @@caddyguy5369
I love the Elegoo PLA+
Thank you so much for the very valuable knowledge you are sharing with us, it is extremely useful and I've discovered and learnt so many things on your channel - had a quick scroll through your channel and after watching couple if videos I immediately subscribed. With the amount of knowledge you have, I think that it will be very helpful to all of us if could do a detailed video specifically about filaments and sharing your knowledge about them, comparing heat resistance, uv resistance, overall strength, lifespan indoors vs outdoors, toxicity, and proposing ideal uses. After 3d printing for 5 years with PLA, TPU and ABS I'm in the search to find the best all around filament that will do for all common indoor and outdoor uses (art and functional prints) even if the price is premium. You print it and forget it type of thing - have no worries that it will break down after 2 years outdoors, will warp or delaminate cause of constant humidity - contact with water and other common conditions. I recently upgraded to Bambu X1C so looking around for the best all rounder really.
Thank you so much again Mr LM and Mrs LM, fantastic job!
Thank you for the VERY kind words! 💜 That’s a great idea, I’ll add that to our short list of content. I agree it would be helpful to have a filament guide on when and how to use all of the different types. Thank you again, it’s wonderful to read comments like this.
I missed this when it was uploaded. I just bought sooooo much filiment.
You two are cute! Thank you for making this video bc you have protected me and my family, as I move into 3-d printing
Thank you!
So I just ordered a Qidi Max 3. Have you been happy still with the printer (I hope so)? Any tips, tricks, things you can share about it? Thanks.
I didn't get to use the Max 3, but the Plus 3 is a great machine! Haven't used it in a few months while we've been working on the studios, but we have some projects that will use it again coming up.
Wow, you deserve way more followers. I learned a ton and it was presented in a great way. Fantastic job.
Thank you so very much! I’m new, but trying hard! 💜
I'm here for it buddy. Can't wait to see what's next.
PLA is absolutely recyclable! Plenty of companies use recycled PLA feedstock (rPLA), and there's a large influx of home recycling products currently 😊 Researching it is my job, we're currently up to 4 cycles without effecting conductive Performance, 7 recycling cycles with no change in the chemical properties, after which it can't be extruded, but can still be used in injection moulding, fill etc.
Can you post links to sources for those that may be interested?! Would be very helpful!
@@LoyalMoses absolutely! DOI is "10.1021" 😊 That is the paper on recycling PLA from post-consumer waste sources, the paper on long-term recycling from virgin feedstocks (aka new Filament/pellets) is yet to be published as we're still concluding the work 😊 All of our research can be found through the authors list
When your talking about being hydroscopic is that only the filiment or also the printed piece?
Mostly the filament because it requires low moisture to print properly. But, printed parts definitely absorb moisture, especially nylons, they even require moisture absorption to be more flexible.
Interesting and informative! Good video!
Thank you!
ASA is also more UV-stable compared to ABS. It's more expensive because of market economics, supply-demand catch 22 problem.
Absolutely! ASA is fantastic.
Ok, now that I've whinged about the minor innacuracies - Great content, overall! Your delivery is very natural and conversational and you clearly have enthusiasm and knowledge to impart.
Good production values and audio quality, as well. Glad to add you to my subscriptions!
Thank you, that is very kind of you. I really appreciate this. 💜
I'm making Auto parts out of PETG, car grills to be exact and I'm printing them in two pieces (left and right) Unlink ABS which I can fuse with Acetone, I can't find something to fuse the PETG grills together. Can you help? Thanks!
Absolutely! 3D Gloop! They have a PETG formula that welds the parts together!
I might of missed the hydroscopic rating of ASA also Nylon how UV resistant is it? I'm wanting to use it in a marine environment (On my boat) to keep aluminum separate from other metals, also ASA for light parts inside the boat to save weight
ASA is similar to ABS, slightly less hygroscopic-so we understand. Nylon is definitely more UV resistant than PLA or ABS, it weathers well.
@@LoyalMoses Thank you
Thank you for the video! Quick questions, is nylon UV resistant also?
Thanks! Most nylon filaments are UV resistant due to the additives they include. Raw nylon isn’t completely UV resistant but better than PLA and ABS.
Cheap PLA (sometimes you get what you pay for, sometimes you get lucky) Great Q&A session
Very true. How do you feel you’ve been? I feel they I’ve been lucky over the years, less than a handful of bad experiences.
@@LoyalMosescan say similar results, & I base on experience from 2015 to present. Out of thousands of spools, can say maybe 3-4 at the most of bad results.
@@LoyalMoses My experiences: with multiple 'cheap' brands: it is hit or miss. Sometimes I have like 10 spools without problems but other times it is like 2 out of 3 spools have thicker and thinner parts. Clogging up extruders and even had damaged parts on the printers with it. And still many times here it is around 15€ per KG/spool.
Sometimes it is only like one thick spot (2-3mms) in a spool but it can cost not only the print but also the parts and labour on the printer.
I now have a selection-set of brands I use, somewhat more expensive in most cases but I know they are stable enough for draft-prints. Some of the other brands-spools are apart from the printers and I only use short parts of those for use in my 3D pens now.
About the price: keep in mind that filaments like PLA weight more in volume then with ABS for example. So: PLA is maybe cheaper per KG but can cost a lot more for the same volume of print then with ABS. Besides in many cases needing less volume with ABS or PETG then with PLA for the same (functional) part.
Thanks for the video. My problems with ASA always revolve around layer adhesion. How do I combine the importance of proper ventilation with the importance of relatively high chamber heat? I installed a separate exhaust fan for my P1S chamber and regularly exhaust PLA,PETG and TPU outside with no problems. However, if I use it with ASA I never get good layer adhesion. Even with the exhaust fans off it is hit or miss with the layers, and I am assuming at this point it's because the chamber isn't getting/staying warm enough. I am on the verge of buying a chamber heater, but this leaves me right back to where I started without proper ventilation for a fairly noxious filament, since turning on the exhaust fan vents out the heat as well. Any suggestions?
As you already know, layer adhesion increases the longer the polymer stays above the glass transition temperature, so whatever you do, you need to allow the print to stay warm. Ventilation to the outside can be done at low volume, reducing the volume of air exchange would be important.
Also, thank you for the comment and questions!
How do you mitigate the toxins/ASA fumes in your setup? I know you say to print in a well-ventilated space, what did you do to increase ventilation? How do you isolate a room from the main living space of a home? Thanks!
Open window, a fan, cross breeze. Something like that. Without knowing more about your environment I can't really be specific. I know some people have printed in their garage below their living space and found that after some time they could smell the ASA. So whatever you can do to create as much fresh air as possible, but also keeping temperatures stable.
1:10 you didn’t mention the air humidity in the room where you have all your filament, that makes a lot of difference, in my room it’s 60-65 by default all year round, on the street 70 so all of a sudden PLa becomes very hygroscopic
It’s pretty low here, 15% to 35% depending on the year!
That's my problem too. We live close to the ocean, so I run a dehumidifier spring and summer, until we turn on the heat in the fall. The humidity goes from 50-70 over night, that is if the dehumidifier fills up when I'm asleep. During the warmer months, I get about a month of printing a spool before it absorbs too much moisture.
@@dmonhuntr75 how does that effect finished products over time in the climate changes?
@@justincuvelier9569I have to dry the filament or the finished part is brittle. I do my best to be there when the print finishes, so that the roll can be removed and stored as quickly as possible. The printed parts stand up fine once they are finished.
I also print with a ziplock bag around the roll, with silica packs in the bag. That really helps keep the filament dry for quite a while.
@@dmonhuntr75 thank you for sharing. that helps a lot. what do you think is a good printer for new person who wants to be serious but doesn't need to upgrade their printer after a few months or so.
Great video! I’m considering getting a 3D pen with PLA filament. I know you touched on PLA being a relatively safe plastic to use. Would you recommend using a face mask/ respirator while using PLA? Or would I be fine without? Thanks!
Very cool! I need to get a 3D pen! No, you shouldn't need a mask at all for PLA.
Which filament is best for outdoor crafts, projects ect. I was under the impression almost has to be ASA for UV/weather/water exposure prolonged life. Another question is any material food grade for continual use?
I’m a model ship/boat builder and I like to print certain items not available in different scales. What’s a good printer to get and filament to use? Learning a lot and looking forward to start printing.
I recommend you start with PLA, take a look at Bambu Lab, their P1S is an amazing machine!
thank you very much and do you know they can be used in the European market due to the 220 voltage? Greetings from Greece@@LoyalMoses
I print PETG directly to glass and have no difficulty in getting it to release. I found the answwer is to allow it to cool completely and the differential thermal expansion between glass and PETG makes it almost always a case of simply picking the model up without any need for tools at all. What I have found is that printing directly to glass requires the glass to be scrupulously clean, any grease at all (fingerprints etc.) can cause bed adhesion issues.
Great tip!
You were lucky :) I had two sheets of glass ruined by PETG. One was plain cut to size window glass, the other was carborundum coated FLSun. The PETG stuck so well to it that the object broke off pieces of the glass.
Should you increase temperaturees more for glass beds or pei sheets? If so, do the numbers on filament packaging default to glass beds?
PEI is a better thermal conductor, but as long as they both have time to heat, it shouldn't make much of a difference.
I use 3M masking tape for PLA, ABS and PET alike and did not make any adversive experiences so far. I recommend enclosed printers with - preferably - HEPA filters indeed at least for mineral-oil based filaments as ASA and ABS.
Also what do you think about filament recycling machines like the filabot, ProtoCycler, etc. What filaments do you this could be used again and which do you not?
I would like to try one, and see how well they work for at home recycling. The tinker type you have to build, not so interested, because the general population will never adopt that.
@@LoyalMoses I agree. Precious Plastics has a DIY system, but on their website they have sets the people have made and are selling. You can get a kit with all the parts you need and assemble yourself or you can buy prebuilt units
What glow-in-the-dark filament brands would you recommend? I'd like to not have to replace my nozzle after half a spool. Thanks
Polymaker Glow-in-the-dark has been great, not as abrasive as some other brands - any chance you want to upgrade the nozzle? Hardened nozzles range from around $12 to $25 for a good one.
@@LoyalMoses yeah I have a hardened nozzle for my Bambu P1S, I just want the least damage possible. Thanks
Recyclable, What Filiments can be recyled at home. Many are trying to re use fillliment. I know you mention recycle as in Turn in to a center and or refil, but with devices slowly emerging and diys is it going to be more possible?
I haven't seen any real at home / DIY filament recycling systems that are going to return filament back to a quality reusable product - most are janky and of course they cannot reconstitute the filament properly, so it just becomes worse each time that is done.
I would really like to see someone make an affordable, quality home extruder for recycling filament though!
@@LoyalMoses YeahI have seen some inventions and Prototypes with 3D Printing nerd, Joel and some setup that turns Bottles into filliment.
I see the filament on the wall behind you is not in bags. Do you dry the filament each time you use it?
No, PLA isn’t as hygroscopic as many think, and we do live on a mountain with low humidity.
Are those "adhesion boosters" you talked about compatible with PEI plates?
Absolutely, we use them on smooth and textured PEI sheets as well as BuildTak.
I just started 3D printing this year and I sleep in the same rooms as my printer. At town I have a small bedroom while at the village I sleep in the larger living room. So far I noticed the faint smell of PLA and more noticeably PETG in my early days of printing but I only smell burned filament whenever they clumped around the nozzle.
Just make sure you have fresh air, that is the most important thing!
I@@LoyalMoses That's true. I can't be in a room without some good air circulation/ventilation. The bedroom is small but I never close the windows. The living is enclosed at night but it is a big space and I have the fan over me.
I'm planning to convert some rooms into dedicated hobby rooms for gaming, 3d printing and scale model building. One is almost finished but the other one is still in the planning phase(I live between two houses).
When you smelled the bed cement from TH3D, I got a little pain between my head between my eyebrows lol.
It’s a strong smell!
How do you separate your waste filament/ supports, bad prints, etcetera? Keep separate buckets for each polymer type?
Do you print PLA ‘draft’ versions of your designs before switching to an expensive filament for the final print? ex. PLA draft to final Nylon prints.
If so do you have print parings that work best to keep dimensional variations to a minimum. Thanks.
I don’t separate waste, because without proper labels from the manufacturer, it is put in the landfill unfortunately.
Weed eater string is made out of nylon and some are modified to be extremely durable and stable. All my plain nylon prints are made out of round 0.065 inch trimmer line and if you look hard enough or ask your gardener you can find 1, 3, 5 even 10lbs spools. Unfortunately the color selection is extremely limited but extremely cheap and consistent. Also 0.065in is 1.6mm which is fine you just gotta tune extrusion rates and retractions.
What's the cost for 1kg of weed eater string? I know this is where hobby 3D printing began, but I do wonder what the costs are.
@@LoyalMoses About 35usd for a 2.25kg spool.
@@LoyalMosesI was under the impression that it's exceedingly expensive for this purpose... almost seems smarter to use filament for string trimming lmao.
Harbor Freight has the 100ft for $6. It's 1/5 of a lb. So figure almost $70/kg
@oldkingcrow777 yes i use that stuff all the time even prints great on my ender s1 without an enclosure for small prints
On April 2024 Amazon had:
"KAKO 065 Trimmer Line Round Weed Eater Line .065 Weed Wacker String .065-Inch-by-2000-ft-3lb Commercial Grade Round String Trimmer Line, Weed Eater String .065 Fits Most String Trimmer(Orange)"
for $26. USD
Great information, thank you! Have you played with Polypropylene at all? I am looking for a solvent resistant solution, in particular, gasoline vapor. Aside from the trouble with it not sticking to the bed, are there any other major issues to be aware of?
Interesting, I'll do some research because I am interested in gasoline and diesel resistant filaments as well for some content.
I've printed gasoline tank caps out of petg and 2 years on they seem unaffected by constant exposure to gasoline fumes.
This is awesome! Did you design them yourself or download an STL?
@@dawsonmobley interesting. I had always heard and read PETG wouldn deteriorate with gasoline exposure. Curious if it still has the same mechanical strength as it did right off the printer. Sounds like a good experiment.
@@LoyalMoses at the time I needed them hadn't learned how to design anything yet so I just downloaded an STL, but since then I've learned how to use tinkercad somewhat and could design one with no problem 👍
I tried printing nylon on my X1C and it stuck to the build plate really well... well enough to separate the build plate from the magnetic base and warp the entire print. Still trying to come up with better solutions for that besides printing on a raft or at a weird angle.
Put a layer of gluestick down, that acts as an interface layer, will help it release.
I know glow in the dark filament will break down a brass nozzle, but does it break down a stainless steel nozzle? Or do I have to get a hardened steel nozzle and gears for my P1S?
Stainless or hardened steel nozzle will work great! But the upgraded gears is a good idea, if you plan to print this and other abrasives! And, thank you for the question!
You mentioned PLA, PLA+, PLA Pro and PLA HD.
What about PolyLite PLA? Is it any different, or is that just a Polymaker moniker?
Next, when we say it's hygroscopic, is the plastic really absorbing moisture, or is it that the moisture just clings to the surface of the plastic? Many plumbing items are made of ABS.
Lastly, amazingly, that Qidi X Plus 3 is still only $650!
As always, thanks for the great lessons.
PolyLite is just their naming convention for regular PLA! It does absorb moisture and it will make the filament on the spool brittle and you’ll hear the moisture sizzling when printing if you have that issue.
I've been printing since 2016, had a spool I kept for many many years that I later used to compare modern PLA and noticed how much stronger and way less smell today's plastics are than some 10+ years ago
its worth noting that degradation of the plastic over as long a period as 10 years is not negligible, so that is not necessarily a fair comparison. Also, if you didn't dry it beforehand, it almost certainly had absorbed some water, which would effect both smell and performance
Recipes have definitely changed for the better. So many high tech filament options now!
Great stuff, thank you!
You are very welcome! Thank you for watching! Sub if you haven't!
For nylon filament, I have used weedwacker string. I have had decent results, it did warp (due to the lack of enclosure). Drying is a must since they are not vacuum sealed or anything to prevent moisture. Can be found in most hardware stores, easy to fine and most cases cheaper. Only negative thing about buying it is that it is not made with 3D printing at mind so it may have toxic chemicals that are unknown so ventilation is a must!
Yup, that’s the way it used to be for everyone.
Wow! I didn't realize that glow-in-the-dark PLA was abrasive. I'd better use my tungsten steel nozzle to print all the Halloween stuff I was planning.
Great timing 👍
Regarding the ASA poisoning, yep those carbon filters take away a lot of the smell but don't capture the nasty chemicals.
I have a high volume fan sucking the air out of a window whenever printing things other than PLA.
Definitely print it with a hardened nozzle for sure! Yes, ASA is okay to print with proper ventilation, without, it's just nasty.
@@LoyalMoses Is keeping my Bambu P1S (Enclosured) beside the open balcony door while printing a lot of ASA fine?
bofa printpro 3 here. can't put a price tag on your lungs or your health.
Oh! I’ve heard great things about that one. Glad to hear you have one and like it!
I always stress to everyone that wants to print in ABS or ASA, a completely sealed printer with Inlet vents and true negative pressure. Just put it by a window, spend the 15 bucks to get the insert, and model and adapter or find someone else's model. I've never had a problem since
Great advice! Ventilation is so important!
Love PLA+ for tabletop terrain. Its a bit more anoying to clean up, especialy with small supports n stuff but its so much more resilient than normal pla for hobby handling. a buddy of mine prints in standard pla constantly and his terrain breaks every now and then and i never had any issues of that kind with my pla+.
When you talk about nylon being humidity sensitive, is it before or after your item is printed?
Both actually
I just started printing with ASA, I just got a new ASA with the Glitter in it. Mine is the Dark Blue ASA with sliver Glitter.
The maker I got it from does white, black, red, dark green, light blue, gray and the dark blue all with the glitter in.
I also just managed to buy the new Sun Lu S4 4 spool dryer to help with the drying of my many many spools.
I have that Qidi X-Plus-3 core xy enclosed printer and it is amazing fast and detailed printing wise.
It does ASA and ABS and PETG so well when I have worked out what temps they need? I found that different companies filaments are all very different in the flow or heat needed.
I do make a point to write either on the end of the spool box or on a bit of paper stuck to the box ( if the box is too dark to see the maker pen writing )
All the temps and flow and speed and fan info for that spool and for each of the printers I use too! as they again all different for the same spool of filament.
Makes it easy then to set those known temps etc for each printer? I have a Elegoo Saturn 2 resin printer too. the only downside for me is the waste washing water from this resin printer!
I use water washable resin But, seeing as I live in the UK were many hot sunny days are rare even in the last few hot summers, it means I can't set the waste water resin?
I have had to store the water used to wash the resin for now until I work out how to safety dispose of the washing water?
a UV light big and powerful enough to set the resin in the waste water is hundreds of pounds to buy, so that is out.
Here I looked up disposal services for it, But they is few and I can't transport the waste water that easy to any found often far from me as I don't have a car!
Even though someone said to use the XS curing station unit I have to cure the waste water resin, it is a small area in there and the rotating platform inside is a light one so I don't with to break it with the huge weight of a glass big jar filled with heavy resin filled water.
Thanks for the good done video here btw?
That was a great intro into filaments.
Thank you, appreciate it! Would love to have your sub if you haven't already!
Great channel. New subscriber here. I’m sure you have described this effect somewhere in one of your videos, but thought I would just ask a quick question. What’s the main indicator that you have a worn out nozzle? I wanna make sure that I’m not chasing printing issues with settings if I simply have a bad nozzle. thank you
I'm completely new to 3D printing and haven't bought a unit yet as I am trying to figure out which one will be best for me. I have a hot tub repair business and am thinking I could 3D print some maybe hard to find or discontinued items. I am gathering that I would likely need to use ABS, ASA or Nylon but what if the items are to be submerged in the hot tub water? They will need to be UV resistant and handle being submerged in chemical rich environment. Which filament would work best? Secondarily I do have some other ideas unrelated to hot tubs for a side project or invention I am wanting to build but again, it would be around water but not submerged in it. These items would be mostly protected from water but would need to endure some water getting splashed on them. I am probably leaning towards a Bambu 3D printer but not sure which model will work best for me? Only wanting to spend between $600-1000 and am not sure if there will be added cost in software. I appreciate any advice you could give! Thank you!
Fantastic questions! First let me recommend joining our discord, we have a HUGE community there that will be willing to help you in every aspect of this.
ABS, ASA and Nylon are fantastic materials, and there are some other interesting ones that could work as well.
Submerging in water or being splashed isn’t going to be a problem at all, really depends on the chemicals. If you know that ABS and Nylon are okay currently as materials in the hot tub world, this shouldn’t be an issue.
If you are working with a sub $1000 budget and Bambu is already on your radar, I would recommend the P1S and even opt for the AMS (multi-color/material) option.
Software is free for slicing and printing and design software is simple to learn, some free some paid.
Our discord: discord.thelmshow.com
How do you not have more subs? Great video, very informative, thanks!
That’s very kind! I’m brand new, only been a partner for 6 months!
19:15 The first time I printed ABS, it was a cheap brand, very fumy, I was printing in a room adjacent to the bedroom. I woke up the next day with a "sense of impending doom"... I never knew what that was supposed to mean, until that day.
I could feel, deep in my lungs, something heavy. Went outside for about 10 minutes and was feeling better. Went back inside and I could smell ALL the fumes I guess built up slowly. I didn't even print a lot. Maybe 2 hours, 2-3 meters of filament. That was something else.
Yikes! That’s scary! It definitely depends on the amount of styrene in the filament and how much you breath! I’m glad you are okay!
I like to print on a smooth glass bed with Bed Weld. Product goes far and realeses so easily when the plate cool. If I am too impatient I just put on another plate while it cools.
Awesome.
Hey! What filter was used on the printers that got you sick?
They were just activated carbon. But all of these 3D printers aren't sealed, so they just leak air everywhere.
5:59 so if you are halfway through a print and you've blown out a nozzle, does that mean you have to start all over again from scratch, or is there a trick to replace the nozzle and continue printing the piece?
I suppose you could pause, unload and do a nozzle change, but the chances of getting it right without changing your z-height are slim. You’d likely just lose your print.
I'm a new subscriber and I really dig your channel. Just got to leave one comment/ correction. ALL filaments give off VOC's. I'm not a chemist nor do I claim to know more than others, there is another TH-camr that did test this and all filaments gave off VOCs. I don't know if some are more toxic than others and I don't even know the definition of a VOC. But I would not be printing in a closed room. Leave it outside in a workshop
Thank you! Welcome in, and absolutely -- always have fresh air, we only get one set of lungs!
I always wonder is tpu safe to use and is reciclable?
TPU will be in our next video as well as some other interesting filaments!