I think you're missing one amazing aspect of 3d printing. You tried to 3d print a wooden chair, and you tried to print a stool that sort of follows a wooden stool design. Instead, you should be printing furniture that cannot be otherwise manufactured, catered to the strengths of the medium. It requires you change your definition of furniture, and think outside the box.
I agree with you,...but maybe that guy was just trying to show us on a simple furniture how it goes.... And,.. as a first opinion, I think that I don¨t need so big printer,... My Creality 10 S pro,..wich is 5 years old would still make a good job on a mid size /30*30*40 cm/ printings
Я думаю проблема автора в том что он пытается печатать простые детали которые можно приобрести уже в готовом виде для сборки, и нужно допечатать какие то сложные вещи, как сочленения или сложные элементы декора.
youre right dave...show us all your creative furniture designs that you printed the same week as receiving the machine....now you realize how delusional and ignorant your comment is?
Bless you. I was a wood furniture designer/builder for 45 years. After being forced into early retirement I decided to try tackling printed furniture. There is about as much to learn about printing as there is to learn about wood furniture building, and not much crossover between the two. The first thing you must do is 'think out of the box' when it comes to designs, avoiding overhangs/ supports, 'joinery', and try to come up with one-piece solutions to furniture applications. It's not easy to switch over from woodwork thinking but you'll get the hang of it. I realized early on that I couldn't really make anything from gluing together parts, so I purchased a Modix big60 for about what you paid for the elegoo. It's been a very reliable and flexible machine. I print mostly with a 1.0mm nozzle, sometimes a 1.5mm and sometimes a .8mm. I avoid infill when I can and rely instead on hollow parts with multiple perimeters and internal bracing/webs, it saves time and money and is pretty strong. I only use PLA for prototyping ideas and PETG when it's time to get serious. (The thing about PLA is that it sags and weakens over time, some of the large prints I did 5 years ago are starting to fall apart.) PETG is a little too flexible sometimes though. I've experimented with CF/Nylon, ABS, PC, etc., and they are not cost-effective, plus they all require heated enclosures. Drying your filament is essential, always take your spools down to 12-15% before you use them, and keep them in the dryrs when printing. I have several of the sunlu dryers, they work pretty well. Calibration is crucial. Whatever printer you're using, flow rate, e-steps, clearances, temperature towers, experimenting with nozzles, temps and speeds is essential before you can get consistent results, and on a big machine, these factors are even more important to get properly sorted. I abhor postwork. After 4 decades of woodworking I don't ever want to see another piece of sandpaper or finishing product. And this is one place where printing can be a boon, a properly designed project can come off the bed ready for use, which is just the way I like it. The time factor is a drag, yes, but I just turned out a pair of very nice loudspeaker enclosures with double walls that I filled with fine sand, and not only are they stylish but the sound in amazing, and REW software measurements show that they are as accurate as any production examples under $6000 a pair. Yes, They took 400 hours to print, but a pair in plywood or MDF made to the same standard of function would take a comparable amount of days because I can print 24/7 but only work 12/7. I prefer matte filaments to gloss, they hide the layer lines/imperfections better. And even though printers x, y or z can supposedly print at 300mm/second, the basic rule remains, slower means better quality. As other posters here have commented, making casting molds is another excellent technique and has the advantage of multiple copies being produced from a single print run ( sometimes! ) I considered casting my speaker enclosures from hydrostone, but in the end I just printed them because it was faster. ( I am not always a very patient man ) I also weigh in at 300 pounds, so designs that will keep my butt off the floor will pretty much work for anyone. So keep working on it, if you want to discuss anything just contact me through my channel.
Hey! Thanks for your comments. I did do some calibrations - especially e-steps but since the heat break is broken - I didnt want to do too much calibrations before I recieve a replacement as it could be due to that. Great ideas for printing!
@@TheSwedishMaker I forgot to add, to solve the problem of the individual metal bed sheets not lining up perfectly, level it all as well as you can and have a piece of glass cut to fit the total bed area. I've been printing on glass for years and it presents no special challenges as long as the bed temp is kept below 70C, so it won't stress-crack. For special use cases you can apply a PEI sheet over the glass.
@@therick0996 I know. The problem is that he made a chair that works for wood but not plastic. It needs a redesign, and simply will not be fixed by slicer tricks. Also, what works at a smaller scale, simply does not need to work at a larger scale. Once you do some real designs, you know. I simply do not know how to design anything in plastic at this scale, and I simply don't know anyone that does. Not for printing. I have absolutely no reference at all. None.
Part of the benefits here would be printing geometry that would otherwise be too complex or time consuming to create in any other way. For example rather than using to print a chair that could be created using wood and "traditional" joinery, creating a chair that is designed from the ground up to get the full benefit from 3d printing - the design of the chair could be truly unexpected and interesting as it's not informed by tradition or the limitations of traditional woodworking. Great video 😊
I would use that large printer to print smaller 3D printers. It might be possible to stop the printing and restart in a static held bed that can hold position while X-Y metal and harnesses are added. And I think there is an even flow mixing infill that can be used to manually inject slow cure epoxy every so many layers. PRUSA is open source and I would try modified clones of the 5 color versions
As someone who has a company for 3D printing, we actually are planning to get a large-size printer but the main use of such machines is not making or competing with regular furniture. We make custom-made products for our clients and when we make a design, it is unique and personal for a specific customer which makes it worth much more than a regular product that can be found on the shelf. And, using wood filament to make an actual chair is not ideal since most additives to filament will weaken it. A common good material for these applications is ABS-GF or PP-GF. These materials are fantastic, strong and rigid and will be suitable for furniture making. We have our eyes on Mingda industrial printers (the 1m ones) which are enclosed and are suitable for engineering materials. The Elegoo orange is fine for basic materials it seems but lacks the potential for better materials ESPECIALLY at this scale things go wrong quickly and you need a stable environment to print your parts in. The Elegoo orange is waaaaaay cheaper though :) Thank you for sharing your thoughts!
Love your humor, especially the look of true anguish as you sat on the chair for the first time. And how you did the wrap up of a video on 3D printing stools and chairs by sitting on the floor. And yeah - I am also glad to see that woodworkers still have a place in the world. :-)
Id be interested in printing the stool hollow then filling it with something. Resin or even a thin concrete might be interesting. I realise it would require design of the internal structure but would be a very interesting build method. Also in only creating an outside layer it should use less pla.
I can see cosplayers having a field day with this printer. They already use 3d printing quite a bit, but with this they could make stuff as one whole piece instead of a bunch of smaller pieces glued together for the most part.
yeah you could print whole helmets and chest plates in one go. But it really would need to come with at least 2 heads so one can be a dedicated support material head since that will be used a lot in large prints with complex shapes.
What I would print with something that big, Custom car parts, Speaker boxes. Guitar pieces (Neck and Body), Custom bicycle rims, Tabletop arcade cabinet, Giant bender the robot, and giant human skull. Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
Use orcaslicer and do all of the calibrations to fix the under extrusion. If your volumetric flow speeds too high for that filament, it will cause this. Also, wood filaments are hard to print with great results in general and I don't think they are as durable.
This is a great video. I'm glad I discovered this channel. As a maker (not limited to any particular material or craft, but with beginnings in woodworking), I greatly appreciate both the things this video shows can be done and can't be done. I am of the opinion that there is a place in any shop for any tool so long as that tool is understood and produces value in your process. I think 3D printing is a great complimentary technology--it's better at making some pieces rather than being the sole source of parts for a single project in most cases. You, sir, deserve every sub and now you've got one more.
I was going to buy this printer but the wait time is what got me. I have a few ideas to improve it using some designs and upgrades ive done with other printers.
To help with adhesion and first layer under exdrution you need to preheat the plate and not that normal preheating when it says its 60° it is 60° because temp. sensor is in the center and the corners of build plate are still cold or like 40° and as you might know heat can stretch and compress material so by printing right away the build plate heats up propery mid print thus shufting your print plate by 0.1 to 0.2 mm up or down causing weird prints..
One space tip, open the box outside, and carry the pieces in? Then you only need the assembly space inside. You know, when it's NOT snowing. // The value add is when the price point is high, not low. Say, 3d printing yourself a coffin. Those things are stupid expensive. Or, body kits for cars, where customization is worth the money, and they are essentially non-structural. Great video!
As a Doctor Who fan, I would use this to print a full sized Dalek. Even at the size of the printer, the Dalek would have to be broken down into sections to be assembled after the print is finished.
Simply using more infil and more walls would make your prints super strong. I know it takes more time to print, but you would be surprised how strong each part would come out of the printer. I noticed this a lot that so many people use very low infil % and then complain about 3d print strenght. However, just don't rush and print stronger parts and everything will be working properly!
The amount of ideas and the ability to prototype in the automotive or motorsport world is insane, from making cheap templates to mock-ups big companies already have 3d printers big enough to print bumpers and such back in the 90s, but this being available to consumers is crazy exciting !!!,
Thanks! I really enjoyed watching your video on it as well. Not too many videos out on it yet - but it will be interesting to see more on it and also how it develops over time.
I like your video, thanks for doing this. You could use the print parameters used by VORON for your designs. Those are really stiff and it should be the right amount of walls, infill etc.
That wood filler / rubio monoc code pip plus 2C really made it look like an old chair! I'm saying it as professional Polish liver who been sitting on old chairs my whole life!
super interesting video! While this printer seems not toooo practical for daily use, i think it's fascinating, that you can now print such big things in one go!
Print it, but leave one side "unclosed", so you could pour some sort of mixture down into the chair to fill all the voids (a plaster perhaps?). The strength would be from the skin and not the mixture anyway, just to fill out the voids and strengthen it all.
With the design on the stool and other large objects there are some options. You could add cross bracing between the legs quite easily as long as it's not angled past a certain amount, like 45 degrees ideally. Anything you print upright you can always chamfer more gradually into the large surface as well so support aren't necessary. For getting a wood pattern too, you can actually generate a wood grain effect and add it while modeling. In general, adding more walls will make the prints much stronger, especially in thin areas. Just some thoughts for you and anyone reading. Very cool!
Don't worry Pierre, if you ever need help moving a giant 3d printer, just give me a call! Seriously jealous. This thing looks very cool. I could see some fun use cases for this and woodworking. You could make giant router templates very easily. Or large-scale jigs. Etc.
1) print a mold 2) use it for small series: concrete, vaccuum forming, polyester/composites, sheet metal stamping, 3) 3D print a small factory, a production line with multiple small serie techniques. instead of printing one item.. 4) invent a garage factory.. A> a webshop with some funny product B> a production system based upon 3D printed molds in small series C> ship it worldwide.. For example: make LEGO technic, but 10 times bigger out of polyester... The entire system. So you can make a real size lego car. Make lightweight LEGO bricks out of concreet (lightweight) . Scale tewnty to one? The entrie system. So you can build a house/garage out of it.. Including doors..
Making LEGO is a fun idea, but you'll have to take into account, that each part will shrink several millimeters over a couple of months. That's fine if you print all the parts on the same date, but if you wish to print an extra part 2 months later, it won't fit. (Been there, done that). Shrinking will stop after 2 months. Printing molds for vacuum-forming is definitely a good idea! (Still keep the shrinkage in mind).
For the infill I would suggest trying the 3d honeycomb instead of honeycomb. I recently gave that a try and its a world of difference in strength! I am very new to 3d printing, just got an elegoo neptune 4 about a month ago and still learning a lot about everything and I feel like that infill pattern was one of those game changer breakthroughs right up there with figuring out what does and doesn't need supports/doing all your supports manually.
You could pause prints and add other materials inside the print if you model the pieces with this in mind. I obviously never print this big, but I like to add weights etc in my prints and do that through pause commands to make them fully encased in the print
@@ksafyer I thought it would be funny if every printed printer printed a smaller version that would fit fully on the bed of the one that printed it. Just like the Russian nesting dolls (or matryoshka dolls)
Actually, PLA is one of the “strongest” materials you can print, for holding/crushing, and layer adhesion. Petg, and Abs are better “impact resistant”.
ABS also won’t warp under load. Like if you print a towel hook in pla, it will slowly bend under the weight and break. ABS will just sit there happily holding the towel unless the weight is too much and it just breaks.
for the firniture certain peices need to be printed separate and then assembled to make sure layer adhesion doesn't make the furniture dangerous. In my printing experience, layer adhesion is one of the largest limiting factors to FFF printing. You don't want any sheer forces between layers otherwise the layers will sheer. you also don't want to bend between layers or else they will peel apart.
Good thing about any problems with printing is, that enough time perfecting it will pretty much resolve it. Once you are able to overcome these issues and setup ideal printing technique, level out the bed correctly and know how to re-level it and maintain it, then it would take little time. The finish of any product can be improved by fuzzy perimeters or by sanding and paint job, finding right filament can greatly improve the outcome as well, so overall I think it is achievable with enough time around tinkering the process as with anything.
For making furniture a laser cutter or large CNC machine makes a lot more sense. Maybe if you could 3D print on a steel frame ... or insert the steel frame into the print afterwards...
I should get back to working on my large format printer, print volume is 600x1000x600 but almost ¼ of the size of that one, my main design goal was that it would fit through a doorway without taking it apart.
You don’t need a different type of Mayer to make it stronger, you need different designs. In 3d printing you have a lot of strength inside the layers and very little between the layers. That stool will snap very easily!!
Let us know when the stool breaks. I would try printing it in parts. The chair seat plate as one print with hexagonal leg slots. Legs separate with hexagonal shape, printed flat on the bed so the layers are vertical, rather than horizontal. Possibly even each leg in two pieces that hexagonally plug in together. Also it means a lower risk of print failure destroying the entire print. You could then glue the legs or just make them them a snug connector fit. Use arch construction for a full back rest chair. With 3D printing you need to change the design to match the material capabilities.
With this size, you can print pretty good speaker enclosures that are worth more than 3d printer itself. You can also print whole rc plane parts and much more.
Great demo! I don't think you have to worry about losing your job! Very few people would want to print their own furniture while the majority of people prefer furniture made of traditional materials like wood ( as long as there is a will to plant more trees, and recycle as much wood as possible). I also hope to see better designed and affordable filament recycling products in the future. Your chair looks good, and as you said it could have used a better framing configuration. Finally, what slicer did you use? Did Elegoo include the profile for the Giga in their slicer? I would be curious to test some parts, and see what kind of printing time I would be expecting for one of my future projects.
looks cool, though you maybe should have added a support beam in the middle between the two smaller support beams under the seat area to give it more stability.
Here's an idea to make a chair in just two parts. Print the leg/seat part like you did with the stool, making sure there are holes for the backrest to fit into. Then, print the backrest, along with the fittings that would fit snuggly into the slots in the chair part, that way you don't need to use any glue.
so would it be worth building an enclosure for this for heat regulation through entiere print. or at that point just crank the heat in the room to 90+ deg?
I think one reason for both the stool's success and the chair's failure is fillets on stress risers. If you round off those inside corners, the chair will be able to take a lot more weight. It does make it look a LOT more 3D printed or machined and a lot less woodworked, though!
Wood filled filament absorbs wood stain. Sand well before and brush in the same direction and you get a wood appearance. Also wood PETG exists. That would be cool to see.
I think it’s important to note that as we progress technologically the trades will naturally be required to adapt with it. What you’re doing is a perfect example where one day we may no longer use wood or in places like the moon or space we wont have access to materials like wood. Nonetheless the skills to take raw materials and transform them into functional works of art is the calling of a carpenter.
For the chair, it would probably be better to print the seat and back together and the legs in pairs stuck to the bed, seems like the printer is not properly calibrated for the filament so that would also help
What if you make the chair like a stool? With the legs like an upside down U. Should be able to flip it upside down and print it in one go. Then add the back somehow. Might not be the best looking, but should be steady?
Im pretty sure you should only use Wood PLA with a hardened steel hot end, not sure if the Orange Storm Giga comes with that installed or a more common stainless steel hot end.
I don’t have room for such a big printer but nice to see that such a device is now affordable and available. For stronger parts use more walls not infill. Instead of useing more infill you can make tiny (0.1mm) cutouts inside the model. This way the slicer is forced to add walls there. Interesting what’s possible to print with such a big printer.
This printer would be great for printing Mock-ups, as they are not intended for real use anyway - if you just want to get the feeling of how it looks in full size or scaled down depending on what you are making an Mock-up from this printer would be great, also I am sure it's good for things that shouldn't be sat on or have that kind of weight on it.
I think this would make a lot of sense if you had a pellet extruder. Since you need compound filaments for best prints - get a proper filament making extruder set up in the same room, and use a filament width sensor to compensate for variable width from your in-house penny filament.
Its very cool hardware, but its also very early in printers of this size so many early issues. They also need to work on the software, what makes bambu so good is the excellent software and sensors, it just works.
If you could use a very low infill that had gaps creating channels that something like resin could be poured into that could be interesting. Obviously resin an PLA don't mix well, but the idea is what matters. Using a 3d print to act as an exoskeleton/mold could be pretty cool.
Its worth spending the filament just making cool projects to show the world honestly. You could end up making cool puzzle pieces for artwork then showing a fully crafted item- like aircraft, ships, tanks, 3d printed tree or flowers within a pot. Literally anything man! If I had the ability to do this stuff, I'd make anything anyone asked for in the comments because its something new to try. Even if it ends up not going well, its still content to show us the limits and capabilities of the machine!
3D print museum artifacts for hands on education. Recreate a complete vintage locomotive style tv or rare radios for display or theatre props. So many cool stuff to create, if I could I would test this out and probably make stuff all day long.
i dont really know where this comes from, but pla is one of the, if not the most mechanically stable materials you can print. there are cnc machines made from PLA, they dont work with abs or anything besides pla, thats how significantly stronger pla is. the only real downside of pla is its basically non existant shock resistance
@@TheSwedishMaker yep, thats the non existant shock resistance :D i think polypropylene is also interesting to look into, also because the layers bond so well, that the material fails before the layer bond does, its VERY shock resistant, very resistant to almost everything in fact.
you should really get a 1 mm nozzle. while printing 20cm things the wider nozzle and increased wall count (instead of higher infill ) makes the print stronger.
Sounds like you had the exact same issue that the 3DPrintingNerd had with the hotend crashing right into the bed. I think with the size it will be better suited for creating larger models and possibly molds to do resin or silicone in.
I really find it hard to believe that they haven't come up with printers which do an entire row at a time, like some types of paper printers do. The main limitation of 3D printers is the long print times, which makes them mostly good only for very small batch manufacturing. Material would be less expensive if a lot more people were using it, although I doubt it will be filament in the next generation.
if the stool has more lateral support, that properly would have resisted the torque quite a bit and make it more sturdy. I think if you design the furniture with 3D printing as a new form of material inside, chairs are absolute doable.
Sometimes when it looks like the printer isn't adjusting to the changes in the height in the bed it's because it might be adjusting too much, which is caused by an inaccurate bed mesh.
It looks like the 4 sections of bed are just Neptune 4 max beds stuck together. I have one and while it can totally print very great big prints it is very finicky. For example, the bed needs an extra 20 minutes to heat up every time in order for it to be the same temp all around.
Your chair designs are not utilizing the printer full potential, you can add more cross brassings and other design elements. Or print something in vase mode and fill it up with cement. Or use it as a form for fiberglass+resin
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen i didnt say he is limited as a designer because he is a woodworker, but rather he is limited because he approched with a woodworker mindset (which is not a negetive feature just to be clear), for 3d printing there are so many tricks/round about ways to cover for the shortcoming of 3D prints like weakness and layer lamination, longivity ...etc. , for example one could make braces to reinforce the chair, or integrated metal/wood into the design. or you could make a foldable chair just by modeling some live hinge with TPU / nylon.
@@Daban980 Hate to bring it to you, but there is no such thing as a furniture 3d-printer mindset. Who is having that? Kindly point us to furniture for sale, that is printed, and at the same time makes sense. I would love to see that.
Pro tip, print infill barely adds strength to the part, the outer walls (including top and bottom) adds the most strength to the part. If you do want to use infill as strength, in the slicer, set the nozzle diameter to 0.8mm or larger, and then it will actually add strength to the part (I personally use a 0.6mm nozzle and set the infill nozzle diameter to 1.00mm)
I think you're missing one amazing aspect of 3d printing. You tried to 3d print a wooden chair, and you tried to print a stool that sort of follows a wooden stool design. Instead, you should be printing furniture that cannot be otherwise manufactured, catered to the strengths of the medium. It requires you change your definition of furniture, and think outside the box.
I agree with you,...but maybe that guy was just trying to show us on a simple furniture how it goes....
And,.. as a first opinion, I think that I don¨t need so big printer,...
My Creality 10 S pro,..wich is 5 years old would still make a good job on a mid size /30*30*40 cm/ printings
Я думаю проблема автора в том что он пытается печатать простые детали которые можно приобрести уже в готовом виде для сборки, и нужно допечатать какие то сложные вещи, как сочленения или сложные элементы декора.
youre right dave...show us all your creative furniture designs that you printed the same week as receiving the machine....now you realize how delusional and ignorant your comment is?
Bless you.
I was a wood furniture designer/builder for 45 years. After being forced into early retirement I decided to try tackling printed furniture.
There is about as much to learn about printing as there is to learn about wood furniture building, and not much crossover between the two.
The first thing you must do is 'think out of the box' when it comes to designs, avoiding overhangs/ supports, 'joinery', and try to come up with one-piece solutions to furniture applications. It's not easy to switch over from woodwork thinking but you'll get the hang of it.
I realized early on that I couldn't really make anything from gluing together parts, so I purchased a Modix big60 for about what you paid for the elegoo. It's been a very reliable and flexible machine. I print mostly with a 1.0mm nozzle, sometimes a 1.5mm and sometimes a .8mm. I avoid infill when I can and rely instead on hollow parts with multiple perimeters and internal bracing/webs, it saves time and money and is pretty strong. I only use PLA for prototyping ideas and PETG when it's time to get serious. (The thing about PLA is that it sags and weakens over time, some of the large prints I did 5 years ago are starting to fall apart.) PETG is a little too flexible sometimes though.
I've experimented with CF/Nylon, ABS, PC, etc., and they are not cost-effective, plus they all require heated enclosures.
Drying your filament is essential, always take your spools down to 12-15% before you use them, and keep them in the dryrs when printing. I have several of the sunlu dryers, they work pretty well.
Calibration is crucial. Whatever printer you're using, flow rate, e-steps, clearances, temperature towers, experimenting with nozzles, temps and speeds is essential before you can get consistent results, and on a big machine, these factors are even more important to get properly sorted.
I abhor postwork. After 4 decades of woodworking I don't ever want to see another piece of sandpaper or finishing product. And this is one place where printing can be a boon, a properly designed project can come off the bed ready for use, which is just the way I like it.
The time factor is a drag, yes, but I just turned out a pair of very nice loudspeaker enclosures with double walls that I filled with fine sand, and not only are they stylish but the sound in amazing, and REW software measurements show that they are as accurate as any production examples under $6000 a pair. Yes, They took 400 hours to print, but a pair in plywood or MDF made to the same standard of function would take a comparable amount of days because I can print 24/7 but only work 12/7.
I prefer matte filaments to gloss, they hide the layer lines/imperfections better. And even though printers x, y or z can supposedly print at 300mm/second, the basic rule remains, slower means better quality.
As other posters here have commented, making casting molds is another excellent technique and has the advantage of multiple copies being produced from a single print run ( sometimes! ) I considered casting my speaker enclosures from hydrostone, but in the end I just printed them because it was faster. ( I am not always a very patient man )
I also weigh in at 300 pounds, so designs that will keep my butt off the floor will pretty much work for anyone.
So keep working on it, if you want to discuss anything just contact me through my channel.
Hey! Thanks for your comments. I did do some calibrations - especially e-steps but since the heat break is broken - I didnt want to do too much calibrations before I recieve a replacement as it could be due to that. Great ideas for printing!
@@TheSwedishMaker I forgot to add, to solve the problem of the individual metal bed sheets not lining up perfectly, level it all as well as you can and have a piece of glass cut to fit the total bed area. I've been printing on glass for years and it presents no special challenges as long as the bed temp is kept below 70C, so it won't stress-crack. For special use cases you can apply a PEI sheet over the glass.
Subscribed.
Make large molds and cast concrete furnitures!
with plastic sheet and wood ;)
@@pdjames1729 with pancakes and wood glue!
@@MyllerSWE old towels and spare gloss paint
ramen
@@MiGujack3 Banana mush and hen feathers!
Actually, increasing number of walls might help more than addng the infill :)
Yeah increasing the walls is way stronger than adding infill
@@therick0996 Adding some crossbars at an angle, would offer you way more strength, probably could look at reducing the useage of filement.
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen which includes a redesign. Something not mentioned at all. Only changes in slicer settings are mentioned
@@therick0996 I know. The problem is that he made a chair that works for wood but not plastic. It needs a redesign, and simply will not be fixed by slicer tricks. Also, what works at a smaller scale, simply does not need to work at a larger scale. Once you do some real designs, you know. I simply do not know how to design anything in plastic at this scale, and I simply don't know anyone that does. Not for printing. I have absolutely no reference at all. None.
Came here to say this. Leaving a reply to boost this higher.
Part of the benefits here would be printing geometry that would otherwise be too complex or time consuming to create in any other way. For example rather than using to print a chair that could be created using wood and "traditional" joinery, creating a chair that is designed from the ground up to get the full benefit from 3d printing - the design of the chair could be truly unexpected and interesting as it's not informed by tradition or the limitations of traditional woodworking. Great video 😊
I would use that large printer to print smaller 3D printers. It might be possible to stop the printing and restart in a static held bed that can hold position while X-Y metal and harnesses are added. And I think there is an even flow mixing infill that can be used to manually inject slow cure epoxy every so many layers.
PRUSA is open source and I would try modified clones of the 5 color versions
As someone who has a company for 3D printing, we actually are planning to get a large-size printer but the main use of such machines is not making or competing with regular furniture. We make custom-made products for our clients and when we make a design, it is unique and personal for a specific customer which makes it worth much more than a regular product that can be found on the shelf. And, using wood filament to make an actual chair is not ideal since most additives to filament will weaken it. A common good material for these applications is ABS-GF or PP-GF. These materials are fantastic, strong and rigid and will be suitable for furniture making.
We have our eyes on Mingda industrial printers (the 1m ones) which are enclosed and are suitable for engineering materials. The Elegoo orange is fine for basic materials it seems but lacks the potential for better materials ESPECIALLY at this scale things go wrong quickly and you need a stable environment to print your parts in. The Elegoo orange is waaaaaay cheaper though :)
Thank you for sharing your thoughts!
You should consider the Mingda MD1000D, it is our best seller for industrial materials in large format.
I'd consider the Kurt3D Bigboi, it is the best machine on the market!
2:55 pro tip, you can unpack the box and carry the pieces in one or a few at a time, you don't have to keep it in the box.
I'd be so worried about dropping some small important part in the grass, never to be seen again.
That is more common sense than a “pro tip”
@@Tevon93common sense doesn’t exist among the masses anymore.
Love your humor, especially the look of true anguish as you sat on the chair for the first time. And how you did the wrap up of a video on 3D printing stools and chairs by sitting on the floor. And yeah - I am also glad to see that woodworkers still have a place in the world. :-)
INLAYS IN CABINETS/DRAWERS WOUD BE SICK like 80x60cm drawer inserts in one piece would be so clean
Seeing the model of that chair rail in the slicer on the Elegoo bed and then the Bamboo bed was amazing! That Elegoo is MASSIVE!
Id be interested in printing the stool hollow then filling it with something. Resin or even a thin concrete might be interesting. I realise it would require design of the internal structure but would be a very interesting build method. Also in only creating an outside layer it should use less pla.
I can see cosplayers having a field day with this printer. They already use 3d printing quite a bit, but with this they could make stuff as one whole piece instead of a bunch of smaller pieces glued together for the most part.
yeah you could print whole helmets and chest plates in one go. But it really would need to come with at least 2 heads so one can be a dedicated support material head since that will be used a lot in large prints with complex shapes.
13:30 imagine having a storage house.
What I would print with something that big,
Custom car parts,
Speaker boxes.
Guitar pieces (Neck and Body),
Custom bicycle rims,
Tabletop arcade cabinet,
Giant bender the robot, and giant human skull.
Just a few ideas off the top of my head.
I think we're the same person 😂😂
Giant animal crossing froggy chair ( • ̀ω•́ )✧
Ah yes, the giant bender episode 😁
Can't forget the life-size waifu anime girl 😂
@@barronhelmutschnitzelnazi2188you gotta print a mold of the waifu and cast it in silicone…
car parts, molds, drawer inserts, trim pieces, jigs, cases, mousepads, desktops, PC cases I could think of loads of things to use it for.
Use orcaslicer and do all of the calibrations to fix the under extrusion. If your volumetric flow speeds too high for that filament, it will cause this. Also, wood filaments are hard to print with great results in general and I don't think they are as durable.
This is a great video. I'm glad I discovered this channel. As a maker (not limited to any particular material or craft, but with beginnings in woodworking), I greatly appreciate both the things this video shows can be done and can't be done. I am of the opinion that there is a place in any shop for any tool so long as that tool is understood and produces value in your process. I think 3D printing is a great complimentary technology--it's better at making some pieces rather than being the sole source of parts for a single project in most cases.
You, sir, deserve every sub and now you've got one more.
I was going to buy this printer but the wait time is what got me. I have a few ideas to improve it using some designs and upgrades ive done with other printers.
Id use that to print all my woodworking templates
To help with adhesion and first layer under exdrution you need to preheat the plate and not that normal preheating when it says its 60° it is 60° because temp. sensor is in the center and the corners of build plate are still cold or like 40° and as you might know heat can stretch and compress material so by printing right away the build plate heats up propery mid print thus shufting your print plate by 0.1 to 0.2 mm up or down causing weird prints..
One space tip, open the box outside, and carry the pieces in? Then you only need the assembly space inside. You know, when it's NOT snowing. // The value add is when the price point is high, not low. Say, 3d printing yourself a coffin. Those things are stupid expensive. Or, body kits for cars, where customization is worth the money, and they are essentially non-structural. Great video!
"Hey look, he opened the box outside his house ... Is that allowed ?"
As a Doctor Who fan, I would use this to print a full sized Dalek. Even at the size of the printer, the Dalek would have to be broken down into sections to be assembled after the print is finished.
not just Dalek, such a printer is a huge gamechanger for cosplay too :D
You could print jigs and templates to use with your router for wood projects.
Wow. It can print entire Swedes. That's truly remarkable.
Simply using more infil and more walls would make your prints super strong. I know it takes more time to print, but you would be surprised how strong each part would come out of the printer. I noticed this a lot that so many people use very low infil % and then complain about 3d print strenght. However, just don't rush and print stronger parts and everything will be working properly!
The amount of ideas and the ability to prototype in the automotive or motorsport world is insane, from making cheap templates to mock-ups big companies already have 3d printers big enough to print bumpers and such back in the 90s, but this being available to consumers is crazy exciting !!!,
Fantastic video and 100% agree there are a good number of issues Elegoo needs to sort out
Thanks! I really enjoyed watching your video on it as well. Not too many videos out on it yet - but it will be interesting to see more on it and also how it develops over time.
Great video Pierre, I was very skeptical about 3d printed furniture. now I'm even more skeptical LOL
Thanks! Me too! I should have printed a car instead 😉
You can print a crazy jig, full size and ready to use, for making an elaborate wood joint.
I like your video, thanks for doing this.
You could use the print parameters used by VORON for your designs. Those are really stiff and it should be the right amount of walls, infill etc.
That wood filler / rubio monoc code pip plus 2C really made it look like an old chair! I'm saying it as professional Polish liver who been sitting on old chairs my whole life!
super interesting video! While this printer seems not toooo practical for daily use, i think it's fascinating, that you can now print such big things in one go!
Imagine the model engines you could print with that.. That's amazing.
For added strength you might want to look at more perimeters instead of more infilll.
Print it, but leave one side "unclosed", so you could pour some sort of mixture down into the chair to fill all the voids (a plaster perhaps?). The strength would be from the skin and not the mixture anyway, just to fill out the voids and strengthen it all.
Amazing and scary at the same time. Good to know it's not going to compete with wood due to price right now.
not for a long time I think :) We are good. And I agree - this is the opposite of how life is supposed to be lived 😂
With the design on the stool and other large objects there are some options. You could add cross bracing between the legs quite easily as long as it's not angled past a certain amount, like 45 degrees ideally. Anything you print upright you can always chamfer more gradually into the large surface as well so support aren't necessary. For getting a wood pattern too, you can actually generate a wood grain effect and add it while modeling. In general, adding more walls will make the prints much stronger, especially in thin areas. Just some thoughts for you and anyone reading. Very cool!
The novelty of the size is undeniable, but as you say the price of filament easily adds up for bigger projects.
Don't worry Pierre, if you ever need help moving a giant 3d printer, just give me a call! Seriously jealous. This thing looks very cool. I could see some fun use cases for this and woodworking. You could make giant router templates very easily. Or large-scale jigs. Etc.
Appreciate it. I could charter like a Concorde and send it your way 😂 Router templates could be a cool thing to try out for sure!
@TheSwedishMaker perfect! That way I'll be home in time for dinner 😂
1) print a mold
2) use it for small series: concrete, vaccuum forming, polyester/composites, sheet metal stamping,
3) 3D print a small factory, a production line with multiple small serie techniques. instead of printing one item..
4) invent a garage factory..
A> a webshop with some funny product
B> a production system based upon 3D printed molds in small series
C> ship it worldwide..
For example: make LEGO technic, but 10 times bigger out of polyester... The entire system. So you can make a real size lego car.
Make lightweight LEGO bricks out of concreet (lightweight) . Scale tewnty to one? The entrie system. So you can build a house/garage out of it.. Including doors..
Making LEGO is a fun idea, but you'll have to take into account, that each part will shrink several millimeters over a couple of months. That's fine if you print all the parts on the same date, but if you wish to print an extra part 2 months later, it won't fit. (Been there, done that). Shrinking will stop after 2 months.
Printing molds for vacuum-forming is definitely a good idea! (Still keep the shrinkage in mind).
For the infill I would suggest trying the 3d honeycomb instead of honeycomb. I recently gave that a try and its a world of difference in strength! I am very new to 3d printing, just got an elegoo neptune 4 about a month ago and still learning a lot about everything and I feel like that infill pattern was one of those game changer breakthroughs right up there with figuring out what does and doesn't need supports/doing all your supports manually.
You could pause prints and add other materials inside the print if you model the pieces with this in mind. I obviously never print this big, but I like to add weights etc in my prints and do that through pause commands to make them fully encased in the print
Not sure if the bed would get hot enough but you could try PCTG for stronger parts
Was a fun inspiring video no matter what the result was. Tack. :)
As you said, prototyping furniture just to see how it look. To use it for production, maybe lamp shades. But it is really cool.
Finally, I can 3d-print a 3d printer.
And then print another one on that printer and so on and on. Each one slightly smaller like the matryoshka dolls.
Look up reprap. Also, 3d printers can print bigger printers. It's 100% a thing.
@@mrnlce7939 heuuu this was the begining of the consumer 3d printer, reprap, etc. are you joking ?
@@ksafyer I thought it would be funny if every printed printer printed a smaller version that would fit fully on the bed of the one that printed it. Just like the Russian nesting dolls (or matryoshka dolls)
I can print a printer with a Ender 3. I sort of am, right now. A fully enclosed printer.
I'm super excited to get mine in June. I've got a Mosquito Prime hit end with a 2.4mm nozzle waiting. Big thick layers is where it's at.
Actually, PLA is one of the “strongest” materials you can print, for holding/crushing, and layer adhesion. Petg, and Abs are better “impact resistant”.
PLA is more ridged and PETG/ABS are more ductile.
@@mrnlce7939 No. PLA is malleable, which is its major weakness.
ABS also won’t warp under load.
Like if you print a towel hook in pla, it will slowly bend under the weight and break.
ABS will just sit there happily holding the towel unless the weight is too much and it just breaks.
@@youtubevanced4900 that’s total BS, I have printers with parts 5-6yrs old that have PLA parts, under tension and they haven’t moved.
@@Thomllama I'm glad for you. It is true though. It's pretty much the only reason anyone uses ABS besides a bit of temp resistance.
for the firniture certain peices need to be printed separate and then assembled to make sure layer adhesion doesn't make the furniture dangerous. In my printing experience, layer adhesion is one of the largest limiting factors to FFF printing. You don't want any sheer forces between layers otherwise the layers will sheer. you also don't want to bend between layers or else they will peel apart.
Hope you get all your problems sorted out and you can try anything
Good thing about any problems with printing is, that enough time perfecting it will pretty much resolve it. Once you are able to overcome these issues and setup ideal printing technique, level out the bed correctly and know how to re-level it and maintain it, then it would take little time. The finish of any product can be improved by fuzzy perimeters or by sanding and paint job, finding right filament can greatly improve the outcome as well, so overall I think it is achievable with enough time around tinkering the process as with anything.
hollow legs for threaded rod. a cushion on top and rubber feet. perfection and durability
For making furniture a laser cutter or large CNC machine makes a lot more sense.
Maybe if you could 3D print on a steel frame ... or insert the steel frame into the print afterwards...
I should get back to working on my large format printer, print volume is 600x1000x600 but almost ¼ of the size of that one, my main design goal was that it would fit through a doorway without taking it apart.
You don’t need a different type of Mayer to make it stronger, you need different designs. In 3d printing you have a lot of strength inside the layers and very little between the layers. That stool will snap very easily!!
Let us know when the stool breaks. I would try printing it in parts. The chair seat plate as one print with hexagonal leg slots. Legs separate with hexagonal shape, printed flat on the bed so the layers are vertical, rather than horizontal. Possibly even each leg in two pieces that hexagonally plug in together. Also it means a lower risk of print failure destroying the entire print. You could then glue the legs or just make them them a snug connector fit. Use arch construction for a full back rest chair. With 3D printing you need to change the design to match the material capabilities.
after watching more, i can say this would be good for those life size models for events or conventions
With this size, you can print pretty good speaker enclosures that are worth more than 3d printer itself. You can also print whole rc plane parts and much more.
every day we inch closer to downloading a car
Great demo! I don't think you have to worry about losing your job! Very few people would want to print their own furniture while the majority of people prefer furniture made of traditional materials like wood ( as long as there is a will to plant more trees, and recycle as much wood as possible). I also hope to see better designed and affordable filament recycling products in the future.
Your chair looks good, and as you said it could have used a better framing configuration.
Finally, what slicer did you use? Did Elegoo include the profile for the Giga in their slicer? I would be curious to test some parts, and see what kind of printing time I would be expecting for one of my future projects.
looks cool, though you maybe should have added a support beam in the middle between the two smaller support beams under the seat area to give it more stability.
Here's an idea to make a chair in just two parts. Print the leg/seat part like you did with the stool, making sure there are holes for the backrest to fit into. Then, print the backrest, along with the fittings that would fit snuggly into the slots in the chair part, that way you don't need to use any glue.
so would it be worth building an enclosure for this for heat regulation through entiere print. or at that point just crank the heat in the room to 90+ deg?
first things that come to mind: cosplay and prop making for small theatres and such :)
I think one reason for both the stool's success and the chair's failure is fillets on stress risers. If you round off those inside corners, the chair will be able to take a lot more weight. It does make it look a LOT more 3D printed or machined and a lot less woodworked, though!
Wood filled filament absorbs wood stain. Sand well before and brush in the same direction and you get a wood appearance. Also wood PETG exists. That would be cool to see.
Exactly what I need for my Twizy F1-project, it would be perfect to print the nose cone/frontspoiler and the diffusor in the back! 😅😃
I think it’s important to note that as we progress technologically the trades will naturally be required to adapt with it. What you’re doing is a perfect example where one day we may no longer use wood or in places like the moon or space we wont have access to materials like wood. Nonetheless the skills to take raw materials and transform them into functional works of art is the calling of a carpenter.
For the chair, it would probably be better to print the seat and back together and the legs in pairs stuck to the bed, seems like the printer is not properly calibrated for the filament so that would also help
What if you make the chair like a stool? With the legs like an upside down U. Should be able to flip it upside down and print it in one go. Then add the back somehow. Might not be the best looking, but should be steady?
Im pretty sure you should only use Wood PLA with a hardened steel hot end, not sure if the Orange Storm Giga comes with that installed or a more common stainless steel hot end.
Hi, great channel. You can use cling film wrapped around the frame to enclose the print for other filaments.
Great tip!
I don’t have room for such a big printer but nice to see that such a device is now affordable and available.
For stronger parts use more walls not infill. Instead of useing more infill you can make tiny (0.1mm) cutouts inside the model. This way the slicer is forced to add walls there.
Interesting what’s possible to print with such a big printer.
That would be great for custom PC cases, certain automotive parts, large shrouds, and etc.
This printer would be great for printing Mock-ups, as they are not intended for real use anyway - if you just want to get the feeling of how it looks in full size or scaled down depending on what you are making an Mock-up from this printer would be great, also I am sure it's good for things that shouldn't be sat on or have that kind of weight on it.
Would love to see you make a few fun garden items like statues and bird baths. Possibly even a post box or sundial
I think this would make a lot of sense if you had a pellet extruder.
Since you need compound filaments for best prints - get a proper filament making extruder set up in the same room, and use a filament width sensor to compensate for variable width from your in-house penny filament.
Its very cool hardware, but its also very early in printers of this size so many early issues. They also need to work on the software, what makes bambu so good is the excellent software and sensors, it just works.
If you could use a very low infill that had gaps creating channels that something like resin could be poured into that could be interesting. Obviously resin an PLA don't mix well, but the idea is what matters. Using a 3d print to act as an exoskeleton/mold could be pretty cool.
Awesome video with a sensible conclusion :)
Thanks buddy!
Its worth spending the filament just making cool projects to show the world honestly. You could end up making cool puzzle pieces for artwork then showing a fully crafted item- like aircraft, ships, tanks, 3d printed tree or flowers within a pot. Literally anything man! If I had the ability to do this stuff, I'd make anything anyone asked for in the comments because its something new to try. Even if it ends up not going well, its still content to show us the limits and capabilities of the machine!
Try printing a chair upside down in vase mode (square seat that transitions into circle base) then attach a back rest
3D print museum artifacts for hands on education. Recreate a complete vintage locomotive style tv or rare radios for display or theatre props. So many cool stuff to create, if I could I would test this out and probably make stuff all day long.
Thanks for making this video - I would use it to make very large robots.
i dont really know where this comes from, but pla is one of the, if not the most mechanically stable materials you can print. there are cnc machines made from PLA, they dont work with abs or anything besides pla, thats how significantly stronger pla is. the only real downside of pla is its basically non existant shock resistance
Agreed! The dove-tails I made snapped off very easy unfortunately. I think - with this design in mind - I would have been better off with PETG .
@@TheSwedishMaker yep, thats the non existant shock resistance :D i think polypropylene is also interesting to look into, also because the layers bond so well, that the material fails before the layer bond does, its VERY shock resistant, very resistant to almost everything in fact.
I think it is perfect for printing large picture frames.
Should’ve made a giant figurine of some sort 🔥
you should really get a 1 mm nozzle. while printing 20cm things the wider nozzle and increased wall count (instead of higher infill ) makes the print stronger.
If you use regular PLA you could use a blow torch to help with binding the filament together. Idk just I idea
Sounds like you had the exact same issue that the 3DPrintingNerd had with the hotend crashing right into the bed. I think with the size it will be better suited for creating larger models and possibly molds to do resin or silicone in.
I really find it hard to believe that they haven't come up with printers which do an entire row at a time, like some types of paper printers do. The main limitation of 3D printers is the long print times, which makes them mostly good only for very small batch manufacturing. Material would be less expensive if a lot more people were using it, although I doubt it will be filament in the next generation.
if the stool has more lateral support, that properly would have resisted the torque quite a bit and make it more sturdy. I think if you design the furniture with 3D printing as a new form of material inside, chairs are absolute doable.
Increase # of walls for sturdiness. Infill might help, but not as much, and will cost a lot more filament.
Sometimes when it looks like the printer isn't adjusting to the changes in the height in the bed it's because it might be adjusting too much, which is caused by an inaccurate bed mesh.
There be pla wood filament and abs wood filament for years there’s nothing new that hasn’t been printed before ❤ love the review
It looks like the 4 sections of bed are just Neptune 4 max beds stuck together. I have one and while it can totally print very great big prints it is very finicky. For example, the bed needs an extra 20 minutes to heat up every time in order for it to be the same temp all around.
Your chair designs are not utilizing the printer full potential, you can add more cross brassings and other design elements.
Or print something in vase mode and fill it up with cement.
Or use it as a form for fiberglass+resin
i think because he had woodworker background, so its limited his imagination on the potential of 3D printer.
@@Daban980 So he is "limited" because he is a woodworker? Have you ever designed much?
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen i didnt say he is limited as a designer because he is a woodworker, but rather he is limited because he approched with a woodworker mindset (which is not a negetive feature just to be clear), for 3d printing there are so many tricks/round about ways to cover for the shortcoming of 3D prints like weakness and layer lamination, longivity ...etc. , for example one could make braces to reinforce the chair, or integrated metal/wood into the design.
or you could make a foldable chair just by modeling some live hinge with TPU / nylon.
@@Daban980 Hate to bring it to you, but there is no such thing as a furniture 3d-printer mindset. Who is having that? Kindly point us to furniture for sale, that is printed, and at the same time makes sense. I would love to see that.
Pro tip, print infill barely adds strength to the part, the outer walls (including top and bottom) adds the most strength to the part. If you do want to use infill as strength, in the slicer, set the nozzle diameter to 0.8mm or larger, and then it will actually add strength to the part (I personally use a 0.6mm nozzle and set the infill nozzle diameter to 1.00mm)
I could see it used in automotive like making a center console or a dash for a project car even spoilers bumpers ect
cosplay armor, robot parts, giant cinderwing dragons