Which glues work on 3D prints? JB Weld / Superglue / VHB tape…

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มี.ค. 2024
  • Are PLA and PETG 3D prints really that hard to glue and do you need specialty adhesives? Let's find out!
    Thanks to Siraya Tech for sponsoring this video! Check out their resins on Amazon go.toms3d.org/Siraya or from Siraya Tech directly at siraya.tech/search?type=produ...
    Adhesives used:
    JB Weld go.toms3d.org/JBWeld
    2-Part MMA adhesive go.toms3d.org/2KMMA
    Superglue + filler go.toms3d.org/SuperglueFiller
    VHB tape go.toms3d.org/VHB
    Hot glue go.toms3d.org/HotHotHot
    Hybrid Polymer cartridge adhesive go.toms3d.org/FixAll
    Siraya Tech Blu resin go.toms3d.org/Siraya
    Materials used:
    Prusament PLA and PETG go.toms3d.org/Prusament
    Siraya Tech Fast resin go.toms3d.org/Siraya
    Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)
    🎥 All my video gear toms3d.org/my-gear
    I use Epidemic Sound, sign up for a 30-day free trial here share.epidemicsound.com/MadeWi...
    🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! / @themeltzone
    👐 Enjoying the videos? Support my work on Patreon! / toms3dp
  • วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี

ความคิดเห็น • 479

  • @pteppig
    @pteppig ปีที่แล้ว +212

    Love the mini Thomas as a narrator. Great idea and thanks for taking this much effort in post processing.
    Your videos, same as CNC kitchen, are always very thoroughly explained and because of that, stay relevant years after filming, even if some technologies march on.

    • @MadeWithLayers
      @MadeWithLayers  ปีที่แล้ว +10

      Many thanks!

    • @slicedpage
      @slicedpage ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The trouble is Thom Thumb will want residuals!

    • @pteppig
      @pteppig ปีที่แล้ว

      @@slicedpage the statistical residuals would be huge (difference between measurements and estimated value) as in 9/10 of a Sanlander.
      Royalty residuals would be 🥜, but they seem to live in the same household anyway, so it wouldn't change much in the household income.
      And yes, I answer rhetorical questions.

    • @slicedpage
      @slicedpage ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@pteppig "And yes, I answer rhetorical questions" Who can do it better!

  • @emmettturner9452
    @emmettturner9452 ปีที่แล้ว +71

    Sawdust or baking soda work as great binders and fillers for superglue/cyanoacrylate. Dries instantly and fills out the area.

    • @joeking433
      @joeking433 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      I've used baking soda and super glue when filling guitar nut slots that I cut too deep and it hardens like glass!

    • @spagamoto
      @spagamoto ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I once did an emergency repair in the office, and Splenda worked very well, too. Almost anything that's a fine powder will work.

    • @emmettturner9452
      @emmettturner9452 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@spagamoto Did it also seem to instantly cure like it does with baking soda?

    • @spagamoto
      @spagamoto ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@emmettturner9452 Yes it did. Would be interesting to compare the ultimate strength vs other fillers...

    • @emmettturner9452
      @emmettturner9452 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@spagamoto It seems even water causes a reaction but sodium bicarbonate causes an exothermic reaction that boils off the natural water to cure instantly with a puff of heat and CO². The increased surface area of any granules helps the traditional water reaction go faster too.

  • @Graham_Wideman
    @Graham_Wideman ปีที่แล้ว +124

    To expand on methods to stick parts together, two topics I'd like to hear about are: creating interlocking features that jam together robustly. And techniques for welding parts together with heat, either by heating one or both surfaces, or by applying hot filler material from say a 3d filament "pen", like MIG welding steel. Oh I guess there's also friction welding.

    • @jamespray
      @jamespray ปีที่แล้ว +11

      Don't forget the wide world of fasteners, as well as compliant snap-locks!

    • @TheScarvig
      @TheScarvig ปีที่แล้ว +11

      once you include welding type bonds it becomes hard to argue against acetone welding on ABS
      there are also modelmaking glues that also work that way. dissolve the surface so that the two plastic parts literally become one and then harden again by evaporating the solvent.
      usability depends on the type of plastic though....

    • @PTEC3D
      @PTEC3D ปีที่แล้ว

      See my other comment re: friction welding. It's easy to get the hang of.

    • @jacobbobo4670
      @jacobbobo4670 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes please!

    • @youradvertisehere
      @youradvertisehere ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I actually repair broken prints with a 3d pen and it's very tricky to do. You need to touch/heat both surfaces before you extrude the filter material. Or else it won't transfer enough heat to actually melt everything together. But if you manage to get it done, you end up with sanding a perfekt bond.

  • @winstonsmith478
    @winstonsmith478 ปีที่แล้ว +52

    Someone did a detailed video on this and found that the rubber infused Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue was by far the best for PLA. I bought some, but it hardened in the container in the many months long delay before I even opened and tried to use it! I've had good luck on PLA parts with minimal gaps using water-thin CA which wicks into the joint.

    • @UNVIRUSLETALE
      @UNVIRUSLETALE ปีที่แล้ว +11

      Try storing it in the fridge next, it helps a lot with shelf life for cyanoacrylates

    • @TheMidnightSmith
      @TheMidnightSmith ปีที่แล้ว

      @@UNVIRUSLETALE woah woah woah, for real?

    • @johnpeters4214
      @johnpeters4214 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I use small tubes of Loctite Gel Universal. They last for at least a month after I open them.

    • @ocieward
      @ocieward ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@johnpeters4214 I also get the small 2g tubes in both gel and “regular”. I love never having to deal with a bottle going hard or all of that buildup at the tip that happens over time

    • @WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart
      @WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@UNVIRUSLETALE Yes. Store in fridge but let it reach room temperature before using it, otherwise air moisture might dew inside the tube, which means it'll polymerize faster instead of slower

  • @Mobile_Dom
    @Mobile_Dom ปีที่แล้ว +2

    i do love the fact that your filament guide on your Voron is still a V6 heatbreak with a C Clamp

  • @ihatepeople2335
    @ihatepeople2335 ปีที่แล้ว

    thank you for taking the time to make this video.

  • @rpavlik1
    @rpavlik1 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for both getting the data, and going beyond the data to what applications the "bad" tested adhesives are actually good for. Interesting to see the material-related results.

  • @mralderson5627
    @mralderson5627 ปีที่แล้ว

    The green screen thing was really creative and a really undisruptive way of correcting the mistake! Greetings from your neighbors to the west

  • @alejandrotaudil3689
    @alejandrotaudil3689 ปีที่แล้ว

    Kudos for the edition! the mini Thomas as a narrator was a nice workaround

  • @divyajnana
    @divyajnana ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks again, as usual, what are the great testing. I was surprised at the Super glue, but the results speak for themselves, thank you.

  • @paulappleyard5832
    @paulappleyard5832 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Really intresting results. I work in automotive and we use vhb everywhere. I engineered some bodyside rub strips for a car manufacturer I think (would need to check) they used a pc/abs substrate injection mouldings with vhb to attach to a painted door. I tested them in an environmental chamber for over a week with no issues I could have picked a car up with them. I guess because of the large surface area. Took a good 40 minutes to get them off again the stuff is a nightmare to remove used a rubber wheel on a drill.

  • @RadTechDad
    @RadTechDad ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you!!! I love when you do these kind of videos! You're like the only one answering these questions that come up in my head.

  • @brendanfennell9592
    @brendanfennell9592 ปีที่แล้ว

    Absolutely love the way you have a question, find different possible solutions, test them, compile data, summarize results. I think this is exemplary of some of your best work on this channel. I would love to see you devise testing jigs for tensile and shear loadings that you talked about. Keep up the good work!

  • @HendrikLipka
    @HendrikLipka ปีที่แล้ว +7

    For PLA (and to some extend also PETG), "UHU Hartkunststoff" works very well. It dissolves part of the material and kinda welds them together at the joint. From its usage it works just like normal glue, so its easy to use as well.

    • @PTEC3D
      @PTEC3D ปีที่แล้ว

      I think I can find UHU products here in Australia, I remember them from my childhood in Wien.

    • @ElectraFlarefire
      @ElectraFlarefire ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@PTEC3D Weldon acrylic glue works well. Especially the thicker stuff if you need some gap fill.
      MEK and DCM are the solvents, so it does the same type of bonding. (But do it in a well ventilated area.)

  • @joeking433
    @joeking433 ปีที่แล้ว

    You're giving Project Farm competition! Very elaborate testing.

  • @terpcj
    @terpcj ปีที่แล้ว +18

    I've gone through a lot of adhesives and solvents trying to find what works for me with various materials and uses. For me, CA (esp. Loctite Ultra gel) works a treat with PLA and adequately with most PETGs. Epoxy (yay JB weld) is very solid if not too thinly applied with just about everything. If I really need strength, it's solvents e.g. Weld-on 3 or 4 (I like 4 for PETG). When working with TPU, which admittedly I haven't done a lot, I've found Loctite 406 (with or without primer) to be almost as good as a solvent (being a CA, also works with PLA and PETG). For a solvent, I used DMF once and it welded TPU great (I hear THF also works but I haven't tested it). I mostly stick (ha!) with 406 since it's more versatile for me.

    • @johnbickford9221
      @johnbickford9221 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I have been using Weld-on 3 for PLA and it's fantastic. I also have some 3DGloop but unused. I have a funny feeling the secret ingredient is Methylene Chloride. (well ventilated!)

    • @lukasmatzinger
      @lukasmatzinger ปีที่แล้ว

      @@johnbickford9221

  • @pascalvandenbroek5479
    @pascalvandenbroek5479 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Awesome video! It's so cool to dive into something so deep that doesn't seem all that difficult. Personally I use PVC glue. It's mostly used for bonding pvc rain pipes and in my experience it works well on 3D prints. Also it is really cheap and you're getting a good amount for the price. Keep up the good work Tom!

  • @3DMusketeers
    @3DMusketeers ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great rundown Tom! Love seeing some data. I think you did great to work past the mic issues!

  • @Amarand
    @Amarand 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Yeah, the mini-Thomas was pretty awesome. I'm glad you were able to apply a patch to this, keeping the same content. I've watched this a few times now. I'd love to see another series of videos that maybe focus on a specific type of adhesive. So one video for different types of super glue (my favorite, I love CA), and a different video for JB Weld or whatever. I'm not a fan of epoxy, so it's nice to have my CA bias ("super glue is very good") proven with a visually fun and scientific method. I don't often have curvy/gaps in my parts, so it's nice to see that CA generally ends up being stronger than the parts themselves.

  • @oljobo
    @oljobo ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank You‼️ for once again being the one doing this tedious boring (but important!) research for so many people 🥰 Thank You!

  • @OldManSparkplug
    @OldManSparkplug ปีที่แล้ว

    Mini Thomas narration is something you should 100% do more of.

  • @boredfishdx
    @boredfishdx ปีที่แล้ว

    Love how you used the prusa as a spool holder, most expensive spool holder.

  • @ryanmacewen511
    @ryanmacewen511 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hi Tom. I work with gluing up 3D prints almost daily. I'd like to mention that CA glues, I have found have very useful variants. There are Thin, Medium, and Thick variations, as well as some which are rubber toughened. I typically use accelerators with them, but not always. Accelerators can cause glues to boil and bubble in some situations causing aerated volume increase. I'm eager to see how it works with PETG. My favorite CA so far is Starbond. They have a great variety, and I keep all four I mentioned at the ready.

  • @pantwearer
    @pantwearer ปีที่แล้ว

    Hope you're doing better! Glad to have you back

  • @_gamma.
    @_gamma. ปีที่แล้ว

    Was just planning a project and this came out at the perfect time. Thanks!

  • @thebishma
    @thebishma ปีที่แล้ว

    This is great timing, I'm gluing up a PETG project this weekend. Glad I chose epoxy for the project.

  • @Dartheomus
    @Dartheomus 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    As someone who does this kind of materials testing as part of my job, this was really well done and dang that was a lot of work! The only thing I'm going to ding you on is error bars! :) Standard deviation is fine, but I prefer either 90 or 95% confidence intervals! :)

  • @matthewpride179
    @matthewpride179 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for all the time, materials and effort you put into all your content. Much appreciated.

  • @Dave-kq7gv
    @Dave-kq7gv ปีที่แล้ว

    wow that blue shelf in the background is a work of art...god bless Germany

  • @JonS
    @JonS ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for doing all this work for us.
    I've been liking JB Weld's light activated cyanoacrylate adhesive. The light source with the LED on the dispenser makes it easy to control the run out.
    I've also finally started using the 3D Gloop! I bought a while ago and never really used. So long as you clamp the part it work amazingly well (the PLA breaks first).
    VHB is a pressure-sensitive adhesive, so really needs to be clamped to get the best results. I still won't work well under shear though.

  • @tiffanysandmeier4753
    @tiffanysandmeier4753 ปีที่แล้ว

    Congrats on getting the new studio setup

  • @tinyfluffs
    @tinyfluffs ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Contact cement aka shoe glue would have been an interesting comparison to see. Since it's not a rigid glue, I can see it working well with TPU

  • @GeneCash
    @GeneCash ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I got some "3D Gloop" glue for PLA and PETG at Maker Faire in Orlando. Works like a charm. The PLA stuff is "methylene chloride and other stuff" - the PETG stuff is not in arm's reach.

  • @bj_
    @bj_ ปีที่แล้ว

    Omg tiny Tom is a cool and unique narrator, you need to him back for future videos

  • @hotfistVODS
    @hotfistVODS ปีที่แล้ว

    With the advent of PLA+, almost no one uses PETG anymore. I print almost exclusively in petg because almost all my prints are functional so I'm SO happy you covered it.

  • @Visualize01
    @Visualize01 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great! I finally have an answer what I can glue PETG and PCTG with.

  • @AerialWaviator
    @AerialWaviator ปีที่แล้ว

    Very using and pragmatic information. Thanks for going through all the effort to do these comparisons.
    Hope progress with new studio going well and you are settling in. Moving always more effort that anticipated.

  • @francoisisabel9666
    @francoisisabel9666 ปีที่แล้ว

    As always, I really like your technical video. Great Job.

  • @bneil4059
    @bneil4059 ปีที่แล้ว

    ModgePodge works surprisingly well for my PLA gluing. It also dries clear.

  • @tyakoss
    @tyakoss ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Great series of tests Thom. A small note -- JBWeld is an epoxy, but a heavily steel-reinforced one. It is perhaps not the best representative for "generic" two-part epoxies. In the UK there's Araldite, globally 3M Scotch-Weld, Loctite (but those are usually more industrial use) and I'm sure there's a fairly generic one in Germany too.

    • @kerricaine
      @kerricaine ปีที่แล้ว

      what's a good alternative for "less reinforced" epoxy? when i used JB weld, i figured it'd be fine to let it harden and sand way the blobs on the outside. i ended up having to take a full palm sander to it to even get it down a bit.

  • @83RMonaghan
    @83RMonaghan ปีที่แล้ว +21

    I really like E6000/GOOP in general, and it works really well with PETG. They're similar to the FixAll you used. They stay rubbery. And because they are more cohesive than adhesive, they're easy to remove with a little stretching.

    • @bobdavis321
      @bobdavis321 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      E6000 is my favorite too, but in some applications I need something stronger.

  • @Smedleydog1
    @Smedleydog1 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have used Testors model glue on PLA. It seems to do a decent enough job. Also contact cement as long as you have a nice flat surface to join together.

  • @petermulder9061
    @petermulder9061 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Super glue gel with activator spray to fill up any gaps works great. The gel does not has the hassle by "running" away.

  • @codemakeshare
    @codemakeshare ปีที่แล้ว +2

    For PLA, acrylic glue (solvent based cement for glueing plexiglas/PMMA) works well - it seems the solvent used for PMMA/acrylic also dissolves PLA, and creates a strong weld bond. This is a one-component glue that's sold in the hardware store as a squeeze tube, so it's a bit less hassle than 2-component glues.

    • @hedsy
      @hedsy ปีที่แล้ว

      Scigrip #16 Fast set

  • @creativitybyph
    @creativitybyph ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Something I feel you are missing is standard wood glue. I use it ALOT on my bigger projects and it have never failed me..

  • @jonnusofjon
    @jonnusofjon 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    The phrase 'flow happy' is now part of my everyday parlance!

  • @pibyte
    @pibyte ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for running those tests!

  • @MartinZokalj
    @MartinZokalj ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Since I am a bit professional in the field of plastics, I would have to comment that any kind of bonding is depending a lot on preparation of surface i.e. it has to be dust clean, de-greased and without any other contaminants. Apart from that superglue (cyanoacrylat) is reacting with airmoisture, that starts curing process. I could see that some of the guys in the comments are using quite industrial grades of bonding material that I know from my time in wind turbine blade manufacturing and that is great. Just please remember to be safe, also when we are talking about use of epoxy (that personally adore as manufacturing material) and PUR. So keep creating but be safe as well!

  • @harant8036
    @harant8036 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I like your scientific approach, keep the good job!

  • @mirage3rd
    @mirage3rd ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you Thomas. I myself have sometimes struggled with this issue over the years. I have settled with mechanical joints when I need parts to be strongly held together, be it fasteners (screws) or other 3D printed parts and hot glue when the parts will not endure high stress.

  • @tomemmelot3269
    @tomemmelot3269 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi, nice test, I came from a plastic industries out of the old day's , made Signs from Acrylic, vacuum forming and a lot of other things. So got some old stuff at my place Röhm 117 glue for Acrylic and Methylene Chloride, those work incredible good with PLA and PET, you can also use acetone and the gel form of superglue.
    Like to see more of your tests!
    Kind regards,
    Tom

  • @NielsNL68
    @NielsNL68 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I miss two glues i used with PLA in the past: PVC-glue (the stuff that is used to glue PVC water pipes etc.) and Bison Kit Adhesive. Both work very well.

  • @creamofbotulismsoup9900
    @creamofbotulismsoup9900 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    One thing I've been curious about is using JB weld as a print bed surface. I use it to fill in holes in my PEI/steel sheets when parts adhere a little too well and it rips chunks of the PEI off, particularly with ABS where I need maximum adhesion particularly with larger prints.

  • @knallertk8062
    @knallertk8062 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice video.
    I would have liked to see a comparison to heating the pla an melting the joint together instead of gluing it.

  • @ptomalak
    @ptomalak หลายเดือนก่อน

    From my experience, going over the broken part with soldering iron, has a high chance to top the strength chart.
    Set temperature somewhere in the range of 110-210 C (depending on the stage, experiment), start with higher temp and use pointy tip and stab parts together couple times, then lower temperature and use knife tip to smooth the edges.
    I'm surprised I did not see any comments suggesting it.

  • @astro143_
    @astro143_ ปีที่แล้ว

    I just used some JBweld 2 part epoxy for plastic on some models I needed to glue the arms and legs onto. I knew I didn't want to use super glue because it can't gap fill and it just runs all over my fingers. Awesome video!

  • @rbid
    @rbid ปีที่แล้ว

    very instructive.
    Greetings from the Galilee.

  • @percurious
    @percurious ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Tom, great content & quality once again, thank you! Good solution there for the mic out :-)
    never tried it myself, but i have read ans seen many people specifically use baking powder for the superglue filler.

  • @stevedonalson5675
    @stevedonalson5675 ปีที่แล้ว

    Baking soda is a great filler with CA glue. I’ve used it to fix nut grooves on guitars. It sets solid and durable.

  • @mongini1
    @mongini1 ปีที่แล้ว

    good to see you recovered well :)

  • @IzzySpeaks
    @IzzySpeaks 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Model glue. Direct extruder mount I printed in 2 pieces because I just couldn't get the line up right. Glued, clamped and left over night and the stepper mount was solid. This was Overture PLA+

  • @jangrewe
    @jangrewe ปีที่แล้ว

    VHB Tape is a hell of an adhesive for 3D printed parts - you just have to read the specs and get the right one!
    I'm printing (in PETG) mounts for a little electronic dashboard device for motorcycles and those attach with VHB tape so well that a) it's nearly impossible to remove (unless you use the right technique, which involves dental floss), and b) the tape comes off the aluminium on the motorcycle side first.
    The trick to finding the right VHB tape is knowing the surface energy of your material, wether it's high or low. 3M has pretty good documentation on that.
    Oh, and then you of course need to get the right thickness, so that the contact surface is as large as possible. For your curved test, you should have used tape that touches all edges, or even more, then you should have seen a much better result and no peeling back.

  • @jonathanleslie9100
    @jonathanleslie9100 ปีที่แล้ว

    this is a great presentation. as a followup though: mixing super glue with baking soda has very interesting properties. it crystalizes to an extremely hard surface : on many occasions I initially glue with super glue to just hold the parts, the with a wet finger dip it into baking soda and fill the gaps with the dampened baking soda and then use the crazy glue on that. it becomes a material much harder and stiffer than the pla plastic.

  • @HedoBum
    @HedoBum ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I liked your spin on fixing a messed up recording. That worked well.
    Invest in a a green screen and that'll make your production look so much smoother (no white outline on your inset overlay)

  • @almonster2066
    @almonster2066 ปีที่แล้ว

    In the US, for PETG/PLA you can use Weld-On 3. It is like a solvent which softens and joins the pieces. Very strong bond.

  • @remizik
    @remizik ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great video, any chance you could do TPU ?
    I found a few videos about it but it's mostly US testers and we can't really find the same glues in europe.
    Thanks :)

  • @Wraithofvolsunga
    @Wraithofvolsunga ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I use ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in Acetone) as an adhesive for PLA. I think it works really well and would be interested in how it holds up to comparative testing in future videos.

    • @hedsy
      @hedsy ปีที่แล้ว

      Use Scigrip #16 Fast set acrylic for PLA. It sets fast and it's strong. It welds the material together.

  • @RegularOldDan
    @RegularOldDan ปีที่แล้ว

    Excellent video - I'm glad to see my use of a meme adhesive is not in vain! 😂 I had to use JB Weld to fasten some PETG parts together and it does great. I did notice tackiness/softness as well initially, though I thought that might be due to the fact the tubes were several years old since I opened them and figured the activator might have aged. Eventually, it hardened more.

  • @pmcquay1
    @pmcquay1 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    3m has a primer for low energy plastics as well, makes basically any normal glue or tape work really well

    • @fat_pigeon
      @fat_pigeon ปีที่แล้ว

      You can also use heptane or other liquid alkanes. The 3M primer is just heptane with triphenylphosphine added as a curing agent for superglue. So if you're using something other than superglue, plain heptane should work just as well.

  • @Zachary3DPrints
    @Zachary3DPrints ปีที่แล้ว

    Yes I did learned something from this video Thomas, I have been using super glue for glueing models together, I did use resin in the past as well, and that did also worked pretty great

  • @dylan-nguyen
    @dylan-nguyen 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I bought some ‘acrylic plastics cement’ seems to bond really well to PLA even though it’s meant for PETG
    It supposedly fuses the plastics together by surface softening

  • @santiagoblandon3022
    @santiagoblandon3022 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome video! This kind of content takes so much work and time, I really appreciate it :)

  • @ThantiK
    @ThantiK ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you believe it man? The G+ community years ago capped out around 500k or so members, and I am pretty sure at least half of them were bots. You...singularly...have surpassed that by a significant margin. Can't wait to see 500k :)

  • @davydatwood3158
    @davydatwood3158 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    There's two more tests your really need to do to see the differences between the different glues: pulling directly against the glue surface, and dropping things from a moderate height.
    I say this because CA glue is SO strong for forces that are pulling on the joint - but it's also brittle and tends to shatter when subjected to shearing forces. So CA glue is fine for most things, until you drop it.
    Also: I love that you ran up against the challenges of ADR and just nerped out of it. :D

  • @thierrypelletier6094
    @thierrypelletier6094 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you, Good content, well described with comprehensive results. New follower

  • @Sneakydecoy
    @Sneakydecoy ปีที่แล้ว +1

    There are LSE primers available for low surface energy materials like PP, PE, even teflon apparently. It's supposed to increase bonding on these materials. I used it to glue magnets into PETG using "rubber reinforced" superglue. It was called "3770 primer". Found it on eBay. Don't know how much impact it makes, and I don't know if printed plastic is considered LSE.

  • @Mawyman2316
    @Mawyman2316 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    God VHB tape still haunts my nightmares. I worked at a testing lab, doing mechanical testing. One of the tests I ran a lot was peel testing, and that VHB was a nightmare to get off the substrate after the test. Usually involved at least N-Hexane,steel wool, and a razor blade. Half the time I just through the stainless test panels in the scrap bin whenever I got VHB.

  • @peterjansen5498
    @peterjansen5498 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Tom, Great vid. I find a contact adhesives work great (I print in PLA/PLA+ only). I have not done any strength tests as most of my prints are display models rather than functional parts. I do also use 2 part epoxy and CA glue sometimes.

  • @JJKK408
    @JJKK408 ปีที่แล้ว

    I had a i3 knock off printer break a few years ago, but my new Prusa MK3S+ is arriving on Monday. Pretty excited to get back into the game.

  • @DigIntoGaming
    @DigIntoGaming หลายเดือนก่อน

    Proper heat for layer adhesion is a big factor here too. If the room you are printing is too cold, the fans are too high or your nozzle temp is just not hot enough, then your prints will be weaker. Also of course the design of the print itself matters a lot too. Honestly 3d printing even with just PLA at 100% infill is very strong. When above 1/4 inch thicknesses. As will basically all things plastic, you need to go thicker and bigger to have really good strength. However not everything needs to be strong and that's where 3d printing really shines. You can make incredibly complex prints with very little infill, using clever infill techniques, to make insanely light things. But that isn't to say that they are so weak, that if you look at them wrong they will break but even if they do, it's relatively easy to glue or just so cheap you can print another one 😅

  • @madetofit24
    @madetofit24 ปีที่แล้ว

    We use Loctite 3D Universal Bonder at work and love it! Mostly PLA and ABS prints. I wish it came with more mixing tips though since it’s a 2 part adhesive.

  • @Eo_Tunun
    @Eo_Tunun ปีที่แล้ว

    I am very happy with UHU Plast for PLA. Sticks like pitch, lasts and makes strong parts.

  • @yornav
    @yornav 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    A couple of weeks ago I glued a screw made from PLA that I use for a desk mount for a gamecontroller and which broke in the thread close to the shank. I glued it with Loctite and I used the screw several times already and I always put a lot of torque on it, but it didn't break again. So it looks to me that Loctite is a very good adhesive for PLA as well.

  • @johnm.gerard1718
    @johnm.gerard1718 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I found that 3M double stick Gray tape that it say can hold something like 30 lbs does not stick well at all. But the Clear 15 lbs 3M tape works well. I have only use the clear version on my Dayton Exciter speaker to stick to my cardboard cone but this works great. This version is the tape that comes on the Dayton Exciter speakers when you buy them.

  • @bengineering3d
    @bengineering3d ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I prefer to use my handheld printer pen and repair with the same filament I printed with. I’m sure in a pinch you could extrude with your hotend right onto the break and quickly squeeze the parts together. Or even use your desolder gun and melt filament into the part.
    Can you test that also?

  • @LeNerdarto
    @LeNerdarto ปีที่แล้ว

    ich liebe deine test methode, super video vielen dank dafür und immer weiter so !

  • @HelgeKeck
    @HelgeKeck ปีที่แล้ว

    love my hotglue for printe parts, but nice to see the alternatives

  • @CJSmyth
    @CJSmyth ปีที่แล้ว

    I would really love to see some tests cross-material! For when you need PLA for it's properties but maybe a tpu hinge or flex parts.

  • @AZREDFERN
    @AZREDFERN ปีที่แล้ว +1

    IDK about you, but my glue gun and other industrial glue guns function at 200c. Techbond makes tons of different stick blends. Half of them are true high temp that don't even begin to soften at ambient temperatures. Their highest temp stick for cardboard is very stiff, almost like a filament plastic.

  • @kkuenzel56
    @kkuenzel56 ปีที่แล้ว

    Would have liked to see how 3dgloop adhesive compared to the others. It's my go-to glue for pla.

  • @willys4869
    @willys4869 ปีที่แล้ว

    I do mainly structural prints in PLA+ and have been using super glue gel from Harbor Freight. I have tried most of the major brands available here in the US but the HF bonds better (failure of print material before the adhesive) and is cheap. (3.99 US for 10 tubes). Their gel is perfect for what I do as it is thinner than most gels but thick enough to fill gaps and inconsistencies when needed.
    The "mini me" save on the video did a good job of saving the video without being too corny.

  • @DoctorNOS
    @DoctorNOS 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thanks Thomas!

  • @spongecounter
    @spongecounter ปีที่แล้ว +2

    It is odd that the ‘None’ control performed better than the adhesives, considering that some of the tests broke at the plastic rather than the bond line. I wonder it VampCaff’s comment about the bonding agent affecting the plastic is a cause or if there are other factors involved? Since I print functional parts, bond or plastic degradation over time would be an important consideration in the choice of adhesives.
    Thanks for the work, Tom, appreciate it.

  • @AlwayzBeLearnin
    @AlwayzBeLearnin ปีที่แล้ว

    CA glue (particularly if you look at woodworking supplies) can be used in different consistencies and have an accelerator spray that may be of use for immediate set up. You can check that out too

  • @extectic
    @extectic ปีที่แล้ว +1

    3DGloop looks really good for joining parts with. It is, of course, a specific product for a specific plastic. Haven't tried it myself yet but it looks very interesting. But they do have PLA, PET and ABS gloop.

    • @calebjpryor
      @calebjpryor ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I was surprised to not see 3d gloop on these tests. Stuff is amazing

  • @Todestelzer
    @Todestelzer ปีที่แล้ว

    Before I had a enclosed printer i used PETG too. But PETG is hard to clue and it can damage the build surface easily.
    I now have a Voron 2.4 and print in ABS only.
    ABS is strong and can resist high temperatures too. My go to material for now.

  • @stewiex
    @stewiex ปีที่แล้ว

    I love JB Weld for prints that need the strongest possible adhesion.

  • @3DJapan
    @3DJapan ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I like the gel type super glue, it's easier to work with. Have you tried super glue and baking soda?

  • @TheMidnightSmith
    @TheMidnightSmith ปีที่แล้ว

    THANK YOU! Finally someone proves resin as adhesive isn't good! I've been trying to tell people on any video I see it, the middle won't cure! Also, is E6000 a thing where you are? Here in the states, it bonds EVERYTHING!

  • @rcmaniac25
    @rcmaniac25 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Good overview + *waves at Tiny Tom*
    I'd love to see reviews of 3D Gloop once it meets the regulations and similar for Germany. I didn't realize it wasn't sold to much in Europe so made Prusa, your own, and other reviews of adhesives not consider it as an option. In the US, basically all adhesive reviews are "well, here's a review of non-gloop adhesives. Now that we did that, here's gloop. Notice it's better then the other adhesives". And I guess the meme of JB-Weld still holds up :P